========================================== Rare Fruit News Online - All Year for 2000 ========================================== Rare Fruit News Online - January 1, 2000 - AKA RFN200001A.txt --Notes In Passing 1. Happy New (Year, Century, Millenium)! 2. I survived a week in Missouri, taking along and bringing back home a bad cough. Dad had said that a cough was a poor excuse to stay away, but when I got there, he said I should have stayed home with it. It was good to see him. We played almost non-stop dominoes the whole time. He's 93 and noticeably more feeble and forgetful with each visit. I promised to try to take him around to visit relatives next spring. And, it's so good to be back home! 3. Sainarong Rasananda has written several letters below. You probably know that when Sainarong Rasananda writes, all of us pay very close attention, as his knowledge of growing longans and lychees is backed by years of experience as a commercial grower. Leo ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, Hawaii - What's Profitable To Grow? William Costa New Subscriber, California; Interested In Guava, Papaya, Mango, .... Don Smith New Subscriber, Siberia, Russia(!) Sergei Moiseev --Readers Write Gopher baskets/cages Nan Sterman ARS News Service Nan Sterman Re: ARS News Service Leo Manuel To: Nan Sterman RE: Photograph of "Ginnups" For ID In US (See Photo In OldRFN) Sven Merten To: cdouglass@hotoffice.com Re: Rare Fruit News Online - December 15, 1999 Ron Couch (Editor Fruit Gardener) Ripening bananas - How To Facilitate? Nan Sterman Cherimoyas in Chicago (Finding Fruit of) Holzinger, Bob" To: Anand "Ginnups" Bob Holzinger To: Claire Mango for wet areas Bob Holzinger To: Cory Air layer on Guava - How To Prepare? Michael McCright, CWO Re: Air layer on Guava - How To Prepare? Leo Manuel To: Michael McCright, CWO Strawberry guavas and bananas as container plants Bob Holzinger To: Richard Subject: Abiu leaves - Yellow Bob Holzinger To: Phillipe Atemoya Trees With Problems - Help! Malone & Dean Longan flowering: Effects Of Girdling Leo Manuel To: Sainarong Rasananda Re: Longan flowering: Effects Of Girdling Sainarong Rasananda [Fwd: Longan flowering & Potassium Chlorate] Sainarong Rasananda Re: Longan flowering & Potassium Chlorate Sainarong Rasananda To: Reg Burgess Re: Growing Longans - Tips Sainarong Rasananda To: Sven Merten Longan Orchard Setup - Recommendations Sainarong Rasananda To: Sven Merten Re: Longan Fruiting - Manipulation To Enhance Sainarong Rasananda To: DALE STENNETT --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider http://www.stuewe.com - Tree Seedling Nursery Containers Recommended by Leo Manuel Mango web site Recommended by: Raymond Gerlach http://www.users.hunterlink.net.au/~desd/info/cloning.html Hydroshop Info Sheet - Cloning - (By Cuttings) Leo Manuel (Take a look at this detailed how-to page) --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List None, this time --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Mangos Bob Cannon Re: Recommended Mangoes? Julian Garcia Re: Recommended Mangoes? Bob Cannon Re: Recommended Yellow Mangoes? Julie Jones Re: Recommended Yellow Mangoes? Vernon Shelton Re: Information Needed: Plants In Containers Bob Cannon Mamey Sapote tasted BLAAA! Sven Merten Re: Mamey Sapote tasted BLAAA! Jose Miguel Gallego Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Miranda de Vos Re: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Eunice Messner Re: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Joyce Greenlund Re: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Sven Merten --Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. New Biofungicide Treats Apples and Oranges Alike Judy McBride, (301) 504-1628, jmcbride@asrr.arsusda.gov Diatomaceous Earth As Alternative to Chemical Insecticides Linda McGraw, (309) 681-6530, lmcgraw@asrr.arsusda.gov ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Hawaii - What's Profitable To Grow? Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 21:58:38 -1000 From: William Costa Aloha, Leo & Betty Manuel, Happy Holidays! I have approx. 4 acres in Macnuts and thinking of trying to grow other things that might be profitable. If there is such a thing, Ha ha. Please include me in your newsletter and group. Thinking of passion fruit, no one grows it on this island I think, or something exotic, any sug. or comments? Mahalo William Costa Hilo, Hawaii, USA mailto:costa@aloha.net Subject: New Subscriber, California; Interested In Guava, Papaya, Mango.... Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 10:40:56 -0800 From: "Smith, Don (ICMH)" Currently I grow several kinds of citrus. Interested in growing Guava, Kiwi, Papaya, Mango Thank you. Don Smith Anaheim, CA 92804 mailto:dsmith@impaccompanies.com Subject: New Subscriber, Siberia, Russia(!) Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:21:38 PST From: "Sergei Moiseev" Dear Leo, I would like to subscribe to your newsletter. Here comes my personal information. I live in Novosibirsk, Western Siberia, Russia. Fruit I am now growing: pepino, tree tomato, passiflora ligularis, strawberry guava, cherimoya (all indoors) paw paw (asimina triloba) Fruit I want to grow: Naranjilla, casana, salal, crataegus arnoldiana, crataegus submollis. Yours sincerely, Sergei Moiseev mailto:moisserg@hotmail.com -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Gopher baskets/cages Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:19:52 -0800 From: Nan Sterman Hi Leo Thanks for another great issue of RFNO. I wonder if anyone can recommend a place (mail order or otherwise) that sells those wire gopher baskets that keep gophers from munching the roots of plants. I have seen them in the past, but don't seem to be able to find them now. I need at least 25 1-gal cages and could probably use a few 5 gal ones as well. Thanks and happy holidays to everyone Nan Sterman San Diego County California Sunset 24, USDA 10b or 11 mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com Subject: ARS News Service Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:23:54 -0800 From: Nan Sterman Leo, where do you find the information you publish from the ARS News Service? Nan Sterman mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com Subject: Re: ARS News Service Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:27:32 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Nan Sterman I'm on the mailing list. Visit their webpage: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm for subscription information. Leo Subject: RE: Photograph of "Ginnups" For ID In US (See Photo In OldRFN) Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 17:29:08 -0800 From: scoutdog@pacbell.net To: cdouglass@hotoffice.com Dear Claire, They are also called Mamoncillo, or Spanish Limes. The latin name is Melicoccus bijugatus. They are grown in Florida, but nowhere else in the States that I know of. I've had some seedlings here in southern California for about a year and a half now, but they haven't grown much. They are a relative of the lychee and longan. I hope this helped. Regards, Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: Re: Rare Fruit News Online - December 15, 1999 Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 20:06:24 -0600 From: Ron Couch (Editor Fruit Gardener) Leo, thanks for the newsletter copy. If it's okay with you, I'd like to sift through it and see if perhaps it contains something appropriate to appear verbatim in a future issue of Fruit Gardener -- or maybe subject matter on which you or one of your contributors might wish to expand in the form of an article. Ron Couch, Editor Fruit Gardener mailto:rcouch@ibm.net [Leo's Note: It's perfectly agreeable with me to use anything I have written. I would guess it is also agreeable others who have written, but it's probably advisable to get their permission before reproducing anything they have contributed their ideas.] Subject: Ripening bananas - How To Facilitate? Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:21:48 -0800 From: Nan Sterman Hi Leo - Can one of your readers help our bananas? We cut the cluster down right after our first frost (about two weeks ago) and it has been sitting in a sunny window looking beautiful -- and GREEN. How do we encourage these babies to ripen? Thanks Nan Sterman mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com Sunset 24 Subject: Cherimoyas in Chicago (Finding Fruit of) Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:23:26 -0800 From: Bob Holzinger To: Anand Hello Anand, I asked one of the people at Cal Tropics about cherimoya availability in the Chicago area and they suggested checking Dominick's (sp?) Markets. Cal Tropics is one of the major shippers of cherimoyas in California and they said they probably won't ship east until the first of February. As for tropical guavas I don't know of anyone in California who ships them. You could try contacting Brooks Fruits in Florida to see if they ship them to the Chicago area. Sorry I don't have a contact number for them. Happy hunting! Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: "Ginnups" Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:55:18 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Claire Hi Claire, The correct spelling of the common name is genip, or genipa, also known as mamoncillo or Spanish lime. The scientific name is Melicoccus bijugatus, which puts it in the same family as the lychee and longan. Genip is grown in Florida and Hawaii, being more tropical than sub-tropical. I doubt that the fruit is available commercially, but you would have to contact someone in Florida, like J. R. Brooks. Hope this helps. Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Mango for wet areas Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:02:03 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Cory Hi Cory, I think the answer to your prayers is called 'Repozo' or 'Repoza'. According to Frankie at Frankie's Nursery this cultivar doesn't stop flowering until it sets fruit. A friend of Frankie on Oahu has one that gives him fruit 9 months of the year. If a couple of flushes get anthracnose, then it keeps flowering until it's dry enough that the anthracnose doesn't affect the set. Frankie sells this cultivar, give him a call at 259-8737. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Air layer on Guava - How To Prepare? Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:30:36 -0800 From: Michael McCright Hi Leo A friend of mine was telling me about a guava tree he had in his back yard that had very large fruit. I would like to get a couple of air layers from his tree as well as a couple from his cherimoya's. Can you give me a couple of tips. Is this a good time to try an air layer on either the guava or the cherimoya's? Do you recommend peeling a band of bark back to the cambium or splitting the branch? I have heard both ways work. I have seen both foil and plastic surrounding the sphagnum moss, what works best in your experience? Thanks Mike McCright mailto:MMcCright@d11.uscg.mil Subject: Re: Air layer on Guava - How To Prepare? Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 19:10:19 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: "McCright, Michael CWO" Hi Mike, I will publish your questions, but here is what I have done with air layers on guava. In period between March and August (earlier is probably better) I select a limb about one half inch in diameter, more or less, and girdle, with parallel knife cuts through the cambium, to completely remove a strip of bark about 3/8 to 1/2 inch in width, and then scrape to be sure the cambium is completely removed. Before you do this, plan carefully so that you allow about an inch below the girdled region to tie the lower part of the plastic bag that will contain the moistened sphagnum moss. What I often do is take an airtight plastic bread wrapper or other plastic bag of similar proportions. Open the closed end so that it's a tube just large enough in diameter to slip over the chosen limb for the air layer, and tie it below the portion of the limb where the strip of bark is to be removed. I usually tie it so that the string of the tie is inside the air layer bag. Tie it rather tightly so the sphagnum moss doesn't dry out. You want to plan it so there is about six inches above the removed bark that is smooth enough to tie the bag (again tightly.) Also, you want to be able to support the weakened branch by tying it to an adjacent branch or to something else. I have recently been adding about a teaspoon of mycorrhizal powder to the moist-but-not-wet sphagnum moss. Sometimes I have added a little peat moss when I needed to stretch my sphagnum supply, and it didn't seem to adversely affect the outcome. The other ingredient you need to increase the probability of success is a rooting hormone - powder or liquid. This is applied especially to the upper portion of the region where the bark was removed. You can mix it into the sphagnum, if you wish, but I haven't seen the need. I usually wrap the bag in enough aluminum foil to keep out the light and reduce the heat. What I've outlined is pretty standard, if I haven't overlooked anything. What I do in addition to all of that is to take a sharp knife and cut one inch long incisions through the bark, beginning at the upper edge of the removed bark, and cutting parallel to the branch. I usually make four such cuts. Whether it improves the odds or not, I don't know, but it doesn't seem to diminish them. Some people prepare ahead of time, several small plastic bags of moist sphagnum moss packed tightly and tied off. Then they prepare the branch by removing the bark, adding the rooting hormone, and then slit one of the bags, enclose the area with the limb in the center of the moss, and wrap with other plastic so that the ball is sealed and won't dry out. I believe that cherimoyas are extremely hard to propagate as air-layers. I would recommend grafting to reproduce cherimoyas. Guavas are relatively easy to propagate as air-layers, however, as are longans For air-layers, I'd wait until spring although it might not hurt to begin earlier. I would guess that nothing will happen until warmer weather comes. Stop by and I'll discuss it more, if you wish. Horticordially, Leo Subject: Strawberry guavas and bananas as container plants Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:28:21 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Richard Hi Richard, I think you will need a bigger pot for 2 strawberry guavas. When planted in the ground they can easily reach 15 feet tall and 6-10 feet across, so they will get crowded in a 20 gallon pot unless you prune severely. Of course when 15 feet tall they will bury you with fruit, so keeping them small may fit your fruit needs. As for the dwarf banana choices, you should get the catalog from Going Bananas in Homestead, Florida. There are several cultivars I have grown which will fruit at 6-8 feet in heigth. However they will also pup quite freely and you may be challenged with the pots here also. A good one to look for is 'Goldfinger'. Happy hunting. Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Abiu leaves - Yellow Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:36:33 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Phillipe Hello Phillipe, The problem of yellow abiu leaves is most likely a pH problem. I checked in Julia Morton's book and the abiu is the only Sapotaceae listed with a sensitivity to soil pH. The uptake of iron and other micronutrients are difficult at elevated pH's, hence the yellow leaf appearance. This a problem for most sub-tropicals here in California because of our basic soil and water. Either the soil can be amended or you can try a foliar spray of chelated iron and micronutrients. Or both. Good luck! Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Atemoya Trees With Problems - Help! Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 00:10:32 -1000 From: Malone & Dean Hi, I have some ailing Atemoya trees about 1 year old. Do you have any information about soil conditions, fertilizer, and general cultivation? My trees are slowly losing leaves and have not grown much at all. A friend said that Atemoyas lose their leaves in winter but I have not heard this from anyone else. I live in Hawaii (Kauai). It is moist and subtropical. Our soil is well drained even in very rainy periods. We have about 60 in of rain a year and I water the trees in the summer. I suspect either too acid soil or a deficiency in the soil. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help. Dean K. McRaine mailto:beezer@aloha.net Subject: Longan flowering: Effects Of Girdling Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 06:53:22 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Sainarong Rasananda Hi Sainarong, It is good to hear from you again. Does girdling or cincturing improve the set of fruit on the longan? It would be more labor intensive, in a large grove. Yours, Leo Manuel Subject: Re: Longan flowering: Effects Of Girdling Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 07:33:37 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda Girdling is very successful and widely applied for tropical longans, such as Diamond River. When girdling longans, you do not have to take much care at all (unlike many other fruit trees), so it does not take as much time as it would appear.For sub-tropical longans, such as Biew Kiew, Haew, etc,, the result with girdling is not very encouraging. However, it does work, to a slight degree. Sainarong Subject: [Fwd: Longan flowering & Potassium Chlorate] Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 11:24:36 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda Your readers should be interested in the attached e-mail. BTW the degree of success of potassium chlorate varies a lot, depending upon the climate. It would appear that the highest rate of success occurs if you apply the chemical about two months before the natural flowering time. Sainarong mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th Subject: Re: Longan flowering & Potassium Chlorate Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 11:53:11 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda To: Reg Burgess Reg Burgess wrote: > I should give you an update on my attempts to induce longan flowering > with KClO3(Potassium Chlorate.) At first I treated one tree and part > of another (the Kohala) with a foliar spray of 10gm/litre. This resulted > in 60-80% defoliation a few days after application. No flowering occurred > but a new flush of leaves apeard in due course. Many people have reported unsatisfactory result with foilar application, but the original researcher is admnant that his result was highly satisfactory. I guess more work need to be done. > In August I treated a seedling tree of what I called the "mata kuching" > type, this tree was most unpromising for flowering . Within 5 weeks > panicles emerged on almost every terminal. Many people advise getting rid of about half of the panicles to ensure good-sized fruits, and there is a lot of sense in that. However, I have seen some very well-kept orchards which kept all the panicles and still had a very good crop. Personally, I think that 90% flowering is too much. BTW the degree of success of potassiuim chlorate application appears to vary with the climate. The best time for application appears to be about 2 months before natural flowering. Moreover, widely off-season longans are not as nice as natural longans, while longans which are only a few months off-season are the same as natural longans - to my eyes and mouth at any rate. > I have one query with which you may be able to give me some help - > how does one control bats? My Kohala had only 3 panicles this year and I > lost 2 to the bats I have no problem with bats. However, the growers in the central part of Thailand have problems with bats. To the Australians, bats can be a major menace. I understand that they use a combination of nets and lights, but this is worthwhile only if you have a large orchard and a large crop. Thanks for writing. Sainarong mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th Subject: Re: Growing Longans - Tips Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 20:55:08 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda To: Sven Merten I trust all is going well with you. Have a nice X-mas and New Year. Longan is actually a pretty tough tree. The key factors to bear in mind are as follows: Longans do not like very cold weather. It will tolerate about two mild brief periods of frost per year. Longans do not take kindly to long periods of inundation. Longan roots are tiny and rather fragile. As a result, you should not plant the longan saplings deep down in the holes; the roots should be near the surface. Moreover, if you put a lot of earth beneath the longan tree all at once, it may wither and die. If you need to put earth under the longan tree, the trick is to put the earth little by little, and allow the roots to grow to somewhere near the surface before you put more earth. By the way, potassium chlorate seems to work wonders in making longan flower. So far, I have not noticed any serious side effects. However, you have to apply the chemical wisely. Sainarong mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th Subject: Longan Orchard Setup - Recommendations Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 15:22:48 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda To: Sven Merten Happy New Year Sven! You must be getting more used to my idiosyncracies by now. Sometimes I write very often, at other times I hardly ever write. I do this to everyone, I cannot offer any good excuse for this. I am just not very well organized. However, I always try to reply, no matter how late. If you really want an answer, you will have to prod me. I do not mind that at all. > You mentioned shaping the trees early on. Any recommendations on how > to do this. I assume you want a more branched tree. When is the best > time to prune young trees? Generally, the idea is to obtain a well-shaped tree with plenty of peripherals, but not too thick. In my climate, a thick tree is a haven for all kinds of insects and fungi. Maybe you do not have the same problem. I have not discovered THE time to prune a young tree. Maybe I do not know enough. > We had the soil tested, I think I have written to you about the ideal soil for longans.The Australians recommends the following soil standard for lychees. pH---------5.0-5.5 (*) Nitrate-----20-40 P-----------20-60 K-----------80-200 Ca--------1200-2000 Mg---------190-380 Fe-----------2-50 Mn-----------2-50 Zn-----------2-15 Cu---------0.3-10 B------------1-5 The units are in ppm. I find that is a pretty good standard for longans as well. Most people in my country, however, prefer pH of 6.0-6.8, I like 6.0 - 6.5 (*) The micro-elements are of extreme importance, and must not be ignored. However, you may be intending to use foilar-spray for these. That is fine. I have strong leaning toward the foilar spray of amino-chelates produced by Albion, a US company, under the trade name of Metalosate. However, I am not going as far as recommending them, as I am still testing them, and they are expensive. The uptakes of micro-elements from the soil are rather complicated due to the interplay among the elements. The ideal result is obtained only if you have a balance of the elements. This is probably why many people prefer foilar-spray which is not so complicated. > I don't think it ever freezes. > I don't think the trees will have a hard time in the winter. That is good. > My only concern is that they won't produce much or very regularly. >But, I guess that will depend as much on how we care for them as it >does on the weather. I do know of several fruitful trees, but >consistency may be a problem. Potassium chlorate and sodium chlotate do produce an abundance of flowers. However, insufficient research has been carried out to-date on this. So, at this moment, I would not yet recommend that you rely on the chemicals entirely. In future, I am sure that we will learn more and more about how to obtain more consistent flowering, but it will never be easy. > Would you like me to forward any letters or information, about longans, to > you? I have many research articles on longans and lychee, Yes, please. I would appreciate that very much. Sainarong Subject: Re: Longan Fruiting - Manipulation To Enhance Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 13:03:46 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda To: DALE STENNETT > I was wondering if you may have information on a > recent (1997) book on Lychee published in China? > If you know of this book - would you have the correct name > & ISBN number? No, but I shall try to find out by June 2000. > Also you mentioned the use of Potassium Chlorate used by > longan growers in Thailand to force Kohala to fruit out of season. > Would you have any specifics on the spray concentration & the source of > this information? Do you still need the info? If so, I shall forward one of the e-mails on the subject to you. > I have a small 35 year old Litchi grove here in > Miami--my background is in chemical research--so it is natural for me to > be interested in research projects on Litchi etc.--I'm interested in > investigating the following: getting litchi to fruit out of > season--propagating out of season litchi types--getting litchi to fruit > twice a year (vegatative manipulation) --making rambutan & pulasan cold > hardy for growing in Florida. Any information you could provide would > be greatly appreciated. I shall talk to one of my researcher friends about this and see if they can shed some lights. PS If I do not answer after quite some time, please prod me. PPS Have you subscribe (free) to Leo Manuel's Rare Fruits Newsletter Online? If not, I recomment that you do so rightaway. Sainarong ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: http://www.stuewe.com - Tree Seedling Nursery Containers Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 06:14:37 -0800 From: Leo Manuel This is a great place to order various pots of all sizes. I like the "Tall One," a 4x4 inch top square, that is 14 inches high. Great for crowding lots of trees into a small hotbed. They cost 32 cents each in a case of 240 pots. They're made of very thin black but rigid plastic. Leo Subject: Mango web site Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 16:39:34 -0500 From: "Raymond Gerlach" http://www.freshmangos.com I thought you might be interested in this one. Just don't forget, plant collecting is a disease for which there is no 12 step program! Ray Subject: http://www.users.hunterlink.net.au/~desd/info/cloning.html Hydroshop Info Sheet - Cloning - (By Cuttings) Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 09:12:24 -0800 From: Leo Manuel-I suggest you take a look at this informative site. http://www.users.hunterlink.net.au/~desd/info/cloning.html CLONING ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Step by step guide ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Introduction Cloning involves preparing a small cutting taken from a mother plant, treating the cut stem with a rooting hormone and placing the prepared stem cutting in a cloning chamber. The clone should grow roots and become an independent plantlet exhibiting identical characteristics to its mother plant. Most soft or semi-hardwood cuttings will have developed roots within a week to ten days. The most successful method of growing clones is in the Growool Propagation Blocks sold at the HYDRO SHOP. Using this material ensures a high rate of success, ease of use, short number of days to root development and a fairly stress free clone. Please ask one of our staff to show you one of our CLONING KITS which contains all the necessary items to begin successful cloning. The name cloning simply stated means taking a cutting from a mature female plant in the vegetative stage and inducing it to grow roots. Clones will replicate the mother plant in every way ie: size, sex, colour, smell, taste etc. It is therefore crucial to have a mother plant of outstanding quality. The newly rooted cutting can be induced to flower immediately, or it can be put under a vegetative light cycle to attain a larger size. As soon as the clone is large enough you can begin to take cuttings from it. Contrary to rumour, this can be done infinitely without any loss of desired qualities. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The Mother Plant It is important to choose a mother plant carefully. When selecting a suitable mother plant consider the following: 1. Aesthetic qualities, shape, density of leaves, compactness and size. 2. Heavy flowering/fruit production. 3. Disease and insect resistance. 4. Early Maturation 5. Clones well and produces strong new plantlets. It is important to remember that your mother plant should be healthy and stress free. Cuttings coming from a stressed mother plant may root poorly, be slow growing, produce poorly and become mutated. It is important to reinforce that the condition of your mother plant is paramount to the success of your clones. Vigorous genetic stock can be lost by cloning from poorly cared for mother plants. As a general guide do not take more than 20 - 30 % of the vegetative material from each mother plant and do not take cuttings from the mother plant more than three times. Each time you take cuttings it is a good idea to start a new mother plant from the most vigorous clones. Remember if growing initially from seed to select only the best genetic plants to use as mothers for cloning. Seeds will never produce the same consistent results you can expect from clones. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Cloning - The Cloning Kit. To begin successful cloning you will need the following items in your kit: * Fluorescent fixture with two full spectrum fluorescent tubes per fixture. * 280mm x 340mm Drip Tray, Seedling Tray and Plastic Grow Top. * Growool Propagation Blocks - up to 3 fit a standard nursery seedling tray. * Hormone rooting compound such as "Clonex", "Eziroot", or "Rootex-L". * Heating pad or propagation mat. * Superthrive - anti-stress agent. * Plant Root Zone Accelerant - hormone to enhance the development of roots. * Reputable nutrient solution and a thermometer. * Timer. * New razor blade single edge and pruning shears or sharp scissors. * Spray bottle for misting clones. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ How To Take Cuttings Before you begin to take cuttings, it is a good idea to have all the equipment ready and in good working order. All equipment should be thoroughly cleaned and the cloning area should be as sterile as possible. Step 1. Rinse the propagation blocks with a half strength nutrient solution to which has been added 4 drops of pH lower per two litres. Let propagation blocks soak for up to 10 hours prior to cloning in this solution. Discard soaking solution and just prior to cloning rinse blocks again with 4 litres of half strength warmed nutrient solution to which has been added 4 drops of Rootzone Accelerant and 5 drops of Superthrive. Insert thermometer into cubes and allow temperature to reach the green zone before cloning commences. Temperature should be maintained day and night within the range of 20 to 30 Cent if cloning is to be successful. Step 2. Select cuttings - cuttings can be taken from anywhere on the mother plant provided the stem is of the correct thickness. Stem thickness should be between 4mm to 6mm diameter. Take cuttings with about four sets of well developed leaves and approx 100mm to 150mm in length. The topmost growing shoots make excellent cuttings however make sure the wood is of the correct thickness and not too green or to woody. You may wish to take a number of cuttings at one time immerse them in an ice cream container, or similar, filled with tepid water to which you have added a few drops of superthrive anti-stress formula. Step 3. Take the single edged razor blade and begin trimming your cuttings. Take cuttings one at a time from tepid water and now trim bottom two sets of leaves flush with stem. Trim approx 50% of leaves by cutting across the leaf surface. It is hard for the cutting to keep these large leaves alive and they usually wilt and fall off if not cut in half. Cut the stem at fourty five degrees across the bottom leaf nodes. Gently scrape the cut area around the bottom of the stem. This disrupts the cells on the stem surface and helps them change into root cells. Take whatever rooting hormone you have purchased and dip the bottom of stem into your rooting compound. Here is a tip: Do not dip directly into rooting hormone bottle instead pour some off into a small container such as a thimble and discard what is not used. This saves you introducing any bacteria or disease into main container. Store main bottle of rooting hormone if refrigerator after opening. Step 4. Now you are ready to put the cuttings into the growool propagation blocks. Gently insert the stem into the cube making sure the stem does not protrude out of the bottom of the cube. After all the clones have been prepared and placed in the propagation blocks you may water the block again with half strength nutrient solution to which you have added Superthrive and Root Zone Accelerant. Water the blocks until nutrient freely runs from the blocks allow to drain for a few minutes then place blocks inside the cloning chamber and place the chamber over the heating pad. You should close the vents on the grow top for the first 3 days. Check moisture and temperature for the first couple of days and mist cuttings morning and night with water to which you have added a couple of drops of Superthrive. Be careful to ensure that you do not have water sitting in bottom of tray. Growool cubes should be able to freely drain at all times. Place cloning chamber under flourescent fixture for approx 16 - 18 hours per day. Step 5. After three days open the vent on the Grow Top. Monitor progress of clones for another 4 to 5 days by this stage it should be time to take Grow Top off the unit and expose clones to normal air - still continue misting morning and evening. Again monitor nutrient and moisture levels in the propagation block. By the end of a further 5 to 8 days you should be able to see root hairs protruding from the propagation blocks. Healthy roots look thick, white and hairy. Sickly roots look thin, yellowish or brown and hairless. The clones with the healthiest roots will be the same ones you will be proud of at harvest time. Step 6. When your cuttings are well rooted and have begun to shoot it is time to transplant them into you growing system. Slowly introduce them to full strength nutrient and place them under a H.I.D. light system. Remember the new clones are tender and exposing them rapidly to a full strength H.I.D. lamp after the fluros would be a shock. Care should be taken to acclimatise your new clones to the brighter light. Start by raising the H.I.D. lamp approx one metre above the clones for the first few days slowly lower the lamp over the next week till the lamp is at the correct height. This will ensure a smooth stress free transition to growing under H.I.D. lamps. General Tips When setting up and maintaining your cloning box you must take care to provide your clones with the best propagating environment and care possible. To ensure fast rooting and high success rates, high humidity, 16 - 18 hours fluorescent light, proper air circulation, strict attention to cleanliness and correct bottom heat are absolutely necessary. Humidity should be 80-85%. If air in cloning room is dry mist more often. Black leaf edges, black spots on leaves and mushy stems (damping off disease) are all indications of too much moisture and poor airflow. It is also essential that you provide adequate bottom heat. Do not try to skimp here. The cuttings and their cubes should be warm 24hrs per day. Often people fail to clone successfully because they do not provide bottom heat and clones will root poorly when nightime temperatures dip under twenty degrees centigrade. Remember: Stress is bad. The faster your cuttings develop roots, the less stress they will undergoe. Any stress the cuttings are exposed to can result in a decrease of final yield by up to 50%. So treat your cuttings with a lot of T. L. C. In emergencies: If you have to take cuttings from blooming plants, cut all the flowers off the cuttings. This will reduce stress. If planting clones outdoors treat with care and slowly acclimatise to the sunlight. Clean trays thoroughly between cycles. Use a weak bleach solution and water. Lots of bacteria and fungii spores can grow in dirty wet trays. This will lead to damping off disease. Remember cleanliness is very important. Do not resue growool cubes after they have been used throw them out and buy fresh ones they are inexpensive easy to store if kept dry. Do not clone from mother plants infested by spider mite. Keep your mother plant free of spider mites. Your cuttings will have little or no resistance to spider mites and will stress badly if attacked by the mites during cloning. ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ None this time -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Subject: Re: Mangos Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 11:34:05 -0800 (PST) From: Bob Cannon II Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Gypsy, I was referring to fruit readily available, in stores. I agree that none of the mangos shipped in to stores have a proper 'fresh' flavour. (Pears, peaches, grapes, kiwi all seem MUCH better when picked fresh). They are picked before fully ripe, heat treated to kill pests, quick cooled and so on - this does nothing for the flavour of the fruit. Having had mangos fresh from the tree in Florida, Hawaii and California I'll say that they are all great. The yellow types are for the most part descended from Indian cultivars while white or green flesh fruits are mostly from Asia. All of these have a good taste if properly ripened (I prefer the fruits of Indian decent). Currently I am looking for budwood from several Indian cultivars and have access to budwood from almost 100 others in small amounts. Happy holidays and best of growing, Bob Cannon http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Re: Recommended Mangos Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 00:49:50 -0500 (EST) From: Julian Garcia Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Speaking of mangoes, I recently tried growing a Pin Se Mon (spell?) Green variety mango in Thousand Oaks, California (near LA) where we get around 300 or so chill hours....The mango didn't make it....But my soil is that clay fungus-prone type that doesn't drain. Still, my Carrie and Nam Doc Mai fiberless mangoes are doing well. I also had a Julie that died. Carrie is anthracnose resistant. Is it worth trying to Pin Se Mon out here or is there another sweet green mango variety I should try? Julian Subject: Re: Recommended Mangos Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 00:10:38 -0500 From: Console IIci Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Julian, I see no mango that is even close in my books (Brooks & Olmo, Cornucopia and others), must be a new or little known variety. If you want a green/yellow Asian type I highly recommend 'Okrung'. Having tasted a number of Okrung there is a difference and I suspect that several varieties are called Okrung ("dented breast", "chicken breast") in SE Asia. The best is from William Whitman's tree. Someone in your area must have acquired budwood of this ask at the local CRFG meeting. (If you can't find it I can send budwood in the spring). Happy holidays and best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:tfnews@gate.net http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Re: Recommended Yellow Mangos Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:06:53 -0700 From: "Julie Jones" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Ok, what are the "yellow mangos" that you talk about? I would be very interested in the variety names and also which ones you think are the very best. I have room for about 12- 14 in my greenhouse here in Arizona. Doug mailto:dj243@lds.net Subject: Re: Recommended Yellow Mangos Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:19:23 -0500 From: Vernon Shelton Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Julie, Kent, Keitt, and Nam Doc Mie are the best Vernon mailto:dian@lou-telecom.net Subject: Re: Information Needed - Plants In Containers Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 00:31:22 -0500 From: Console IIci Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi Richard, Key lime will grow and fruit in containers but is very cold sensitive. The thornless has less fruit but does not prick your fingers when picking. These are also called Mexican Lime and are very sour. They make good aid, ice cream and jelly. They make a Rum and Coke real and make wonderful pie. I have seen them fruit in 10 gal but for long term and more fruit I would grow them in 20 - 40 gal. Well drained soil. Trim to the size you need. In Europe many Citrus are grown in containers. Many Annona grow in containers and fruit young. My favorite is Annona squamosa, sugar apple. The fruit is quite sweet and flavourful with a touch of grit like a pear. You might try the purple but I have had mixed reports on the colour being true in seedlings. I know the tree these came from and the fruit is large, sweet and attractive. Same pot requirements as above. Note Annona seed may take a long time to germinate (A. squamosa will last up to 2 years in a dry jar or film can). I once planted half my seed as winter approached (in south Florida) and half in spring. Some of the winter seed had sprouted but had little growth over the winter. Most of the winter seed 'waited' for spring before sprouting. Scarify these with a file. Happy holidays and best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:tfnews@gate.net http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Mamey Sapote tasted BLAAA! Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 06:37:02 -0800 From: scoutdog@pacbell.net Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com I recently was fortunate, since they are rare in CA, to be able to try some Mamey sapote that someone brought back from Saint Louis. I had never tried it before, but I had read many interesting descriptions. Unfortunately the fruit was almost flavorless and not sweet at all. If I was your average fruit consumer I would probably never buy another one. I don't know if it was from an inferior cultivar, or picked too early (or if this is how they are supposed to taste), but if growers sell fruit like this, I think their markets will only shrink. I assume the fruit was from Florida, but I don't know for sure. Is there any way to control the quality of fruit that is shipped to US markets? It seams like the sale of poor quality fruit will only hurt growers in the long run. Is there any easy way to educate the public about fruit quality and how to buy quality fruit, that doesn't involve spending a lot of money? I stopped buying peaches, nectarines and plums years ago, because of a similar problem. It seems they have selected for size, appearance and shipability, not flavor, and then they pick them way too early. If they ripen at all, they are flavorless. I've also had similar problems with store bought Cherimoyas. It seams like someone should have worked out maturity indices, but maybe the growers don't use them, or pick early so the fruit will make it to market. Just a few thoughts, sorry to ramble on. Regards, Sven Merten Subject: Re: Mamey Sapote tasted BLAAA! Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 18:11:54 -0800 From: "Jose Miguel Gallego" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Sven, Next time you come down to the San Diego or to the next CRFG meeting, how about we go to Tijuana and pig out on REAL mamey sapotes? You do have to pick them out right, otherwise, they taste BLAAH! The ones you tasted where cold processed (looses flavor) and not picked at the right time (got no flavor). I had a little bit of them too, mushy, dark brown... horrible... The right ones have this beautiful orange color and a smooth texture. Let me know, Jose Subject: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 10:48:30 -0800 From: "Miranda de Vos" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Hello, I am a Dutch student investigating the market for cactus fruit in the Netherlands. In my country the cactus fruit is a rare fruit. It is only sold to restaurants and Indonesian shops. My Moroccan friend is convinced that the Dutch will learn to love this fruit. She thinks it could be a great business opportunity for Dutch wholesalers. Unfortunately, my friend only knows that cactus fruit is grown (?) in Morocco and that it tastes great. Can anyone give me more information about the (market for) cactus fruit? Thanks for your information! Miranda mailto:mrdevos@rendo.dekooi.nl Subject: Re: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 14:23:15 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Miranda, The Israeli's are exporting to Europe the fruit of the cactus 'Cereus peruvianus'. They have named it 'Kubo'. It has a pink skin with white flesh and tiny black seeds. Quite delicious. I do not know its lowest temperature range. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 23:31:57 -0800 (PST) From: EJG@webtv.net (Joyce Greenlund) Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Miranda, a friend brought back a cutting of Hylocereus undatus from Hanoi in 1993 and tried growing it in a pot. It grew about 3 feet on a patio in filtered light. She gave it to me in 1995. I planted it in full sun next to a six foot boulder and last year (1998) it flowered and beared fruit for the first time. There were six, averaging almost two pounds each. with very smooth skin about 3/16" thick (no spines on the fruit itself) identical to the description Eunice Messner wrote about coming from Israel. My friend who visited Hanoi said it was served "half- shell" style every morning for breakfast, a very gourmet presentation with the contrast of the hot pink skin and the delectible white fruit with miniscule black seeds. She described it to me as one of the most delicious fruits she had ever tasted. My observation was that some areas of the fruit tasted sweeter than others. As much as I like it, you cannot compare it being less or better than any other fruit, i.e., you cannot compare apples with oranges. It made an instant hit with the crowd I served it to at a Cactus and Succulent Christmas party. One of the members, John Bleck took some seeds and I think he was successful in getting over a hundred plants from the seeds he took. This year, I had only three, possibly because we had a very cool summer. I am only a novice grower, have not given it any special care as far as fertilizer, nutrients or extra water. Strangely enough, just before I started to write, I glanced through the California Rare Fruit Growers publication which I received only today and it has a wonderful color pictorial article on Pitahaya (Hylocereus) written by a member who lives only 1-1/2 hours from where I live in Santa Barbara, Ca. I intend to be in contact with him because I certainly wish to increase my production of this wonderful fruit. Note: the Pitahaya (Hylocereus undatus) is not a prickly pear. No "prickles" whatsoever on the fruit itself and the fruit itself is much larger than any prickly pear I have ever seen. The flavor is so subtle. and the color of the flesh being white, I cannot imagine making jam or jelly with it. The January-February 2000 issue, Vol. 32, No. l FRUIT GARDENER published by the California Rare Fruit Growers has the best and only article I have ever seen written on the Hylocereus undatus. The Fruit Gardener is chucked full of interesting articles and color photographs. To inquire about membership/subscription services and back issues, contact Ann Elie (714)890-1939; Fax (714)898-0492 ; E-Mail If you have further interest, I would be happy to have a copy of the above publication mailed to you. Wishing you a joyous holiday season and bountiful success with all your exotic fruit growing endeavors. Joyce Greenlund mailto:EJG@webtv.net Subject: Re: Cactus Fruit For The Netherlands Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 07:37:50 -0800 From: scoutdog@pacbell.net Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Dear Miranda, Please see the article at http://www.bgu.ac.il/life/mizrahi/article1.html , it may answer some of your questions. They have been importing several types of cactus fruit to Western Europe for about 5 years now. Apparently they have become very popular in certain areas. It sounds like you want to import the fruit, not grow it. You might want to try to contact the authors of the article at the above site. They should be able to put you in contact with growers or distributors in Israel. As for the culture of the Hylocereus sp. of cacti, there are a few problems. The first is that they need to be hand pollinated since the insect or bat that normally pollinates the flowers isn't present in most areas. Also, most of them are not self fertile so you must grow at least two clones. I've heard you need two species, but I think two clones of the same species will work. The second problem is that they usually need some amount of shade. In Israel they are grown under 25% shade cloth. The last main problem is that they can not take frost, so they must be grown in warm winter areas. This is a climbing cacti, so they must be supported by a trellis. On the plus side they are a cactus and don't use very much water, 5 L per plant per week in the Israeli desert during the warm season. Even at 1200 plants per acre this is very little water when compared to other fruit crops, and the plants are heavy producers. The Cereus peruvianus is a much hardier columnar species which can take some frost and doesn't need shade. They still benefit from hand pollination, but will set some fruit without. Good luck with your search. It is not always easy to find information on these plants. Regards, Sven mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net ---Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov--- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Subject: New Biofungicide Treats Apples and Oranges Alike Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:40:46 -0500 Agricultural Research Service, USDA Judy McBride, (301) 504-1628, jmcbride@asrr.arsusda.gov Apples and oranges are all the same to biofungicides. First introduced in the United States four years ago as a result of Agricultural Research Service patents, these nontoxic biological coatings are replacing synthetic chemicals for controlling rot- causing fungi on apples, pears and citrus after harvest. Now, ARS has signed an agreement with Micro-Flo Company of Memphis, Tenn., to finish development of the next generation of biofungicides for fruit packing houses. Micro-Flo expects to have a product on the market within two years. Unlike the earlier biofungicides, the new coating has a kickback effect. It stops fungi that already had a toehold on the fruit, according to ARS' Charles Wilson, who also developed one of the earlier products. Micro-Flo researcher Ahmed El Ghaouth is working with Wilson, who is at ARS' Appalachian Fruit Research Station in Kearneysville, W.Va. The new coating combines two bioactive substances with the yeast Candida saitoana. Innocuous to people, the yeast is a formidable competitor against the fungi that attack fresh fruits. The bioactive substances are chitosan--a naturally occurring fiber found in some weight-loss products--and a synthetic sugar used as a glucose substitute. Chitosan acts as a natural fungicide and turns on defensive enzymes in the fruit itself. It also forms a film on the fruit that holds in carbon dioxide, thus increasing shelf life. The synthetic sugar, on the other hand, tricks the fungi into perceiving it as food, but they can't use it. In several years of tests in commercial packing houses in California and Florida, the new biofungicide proved as effective against rot-causing fungi as the two leading synthetic fungicides. Under the new agreement, Micro-Flo and ARS scientists will optimize its formulation and fine tune its application. ARS is the chief scientific arm of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Subject: Diatomaceous Earth As Alternative to Chemical Insecticides Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 09:36:15 -0500 Agricultural Research Service, USDA Linda McGraw, (309) 681-6530, lmcgraw@asrr.arsusda.gov Remnants from one of the oldest things on earth--diatomaceous earth (DE)--can help solve one of today's most pressing problems: finding safe alternatives to insecticides to control insects in homes and food processing facilities, according to Agricultural Research Service scientists. DE is dust made from the fossilized skeletons of microscopic aquatic plants. ARS researchers are testing new commercial DE products in laboratory studies. DE is non-toxic to humans, but it kills red flour beetles and confused flour beetles, two of the food processing industry's worst insect pests. DE disrupts the insects' exoskeleton or skin, causing the insects to die from rapid water loss. According to ARS entomologist Frank H. Arthur, DE could be an alternative to methyl bromide, an ozone-depleting fumigant scheduled to be phased out by 2005. Fluctuations in temperature and relative humidity can affect the performance of DE products used to control insects. Adult insects were exposed to DE at various temperatures (70, 80, and 90 degrees F) and relative humidities (40, 57, and 75 percent). Exposure to DE at 80 degrees F. and 57 percent relative humidity for two days killed all red flour beetles, but three days were required to kill 100 percent of the confused flour beetles. DE kills insects quicker at higher temperatures and at lower humidities. Arthur is based at ARS' Grain Marketing and Production Research Center in Manhattan, Kan. His research also focuses on alternatives to insecticides used in raw grain storage. While DE is a good alternative to chemical insecticides, Arthur stresses the importance of combining a product like this with good sanitation. ARS is the chief research agency for the USDA. >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - January 1, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - January 15, 2000 - AKA RFN200001B.txt --Notes In Passing 1. If the information from Sainarong Rasananda about potassium and sodium chlorates to induce longans to flower has been of interest to you, you will be pleased that he has written more on the subject for this issue of Rare Fruit News Online. 2. Are your mangos confused about when to bloom as some of mine are? The yield has been quite low this year and ripening has been significantly delayed for some. ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, Puerto Rico, Heard About Sainarong Rasananda's Article Juan A. Rivero New Subscriber, Florida, A Rare Fruit Newcomer, With Questions.... GeorgeEasterly@webtv.net (George Easterly) New Subscriber, Florida, Says "Sign me up!" Allyson Mitchell New Subscriber, Florida, With Several Questions; Please Help Ed Lin New Subscriber, Siberia, Russia(!) Sergei Moiseev New Subscriber, Nicaragua: "Thinking about growing fruit trees" Conan Witzel New Subscriber, Texas, Wants Growing Information For Japanese Persimmon Warren and Pat Rinehart New Subscriber, San Diego, Has Lots Of Plants Patricia M Holland --Readers Write Atemoya leaf drop - It's Normal! Richard Prior Banana Split: How & When To Remove Banana Pups? Richard Prior Mango Bloom Tease; Julie Blooms But No Fruit Richard Prior Rare Fruit Report--Ecuador and Peru Brandt Maxwell New Mango Reference Recommended Doron Kletter Halocereus undatus Nan Sterman Ripening bananas Ramon Pabon Gopher Baskets and Bananas Holzinger, Bob" Mango Varieties - Some Considerations Holzinger, Bob" Poor Fruit In Stores Holzinger, Bob" Don't confuse chilling and hardiness! Matthew Shugart Genip, Mam—n, Mamoncillo or Quenepa Juan A. Rivero Brown leafs in rambutans and pulasans Juan A. Rivero Longan and mata kucing Juan A. Rivero Re: Longan and mata kucing Leo Manuel To: "Juan A. Rivero" Usage of potassium and sodium chlorates to induce longans to flower Sainarong Rasananda --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Rivenrock Gardens: Cactus Catalog Page, Edible And Landscape Cactus Plants Leo Manuel http://www.rivenrock.com/catalog2.html Botanical Gardens of the World Leo Manuel http://www.stives.com/botanical.html Dirt Cheap Organics Leo Manuel http://www.neteze.com/dB/index.htm Cacti and Succulents on Stamps ordering information Leo Manuel http://www.cactus-mall.com/stamps/stamps.html The Figs of Israel [Great photographs and discussion of figs] Leo Manuel http://home.earthlink.net/~raygivan/israel.html The Cloudforest Gardener Recommended by: Raymond Gerlach http://www.cloudforest.com/ --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List Re: Re: Kaki persimmons for zone 6 [nafex] Digest Number 212 David A. Consolvo" --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Seed Planting Bob Cannon Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Re: "Dwarfed citrus" Malcolm Manners Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Re: Seeding, lemons Warren Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Chicken-tongue Litchi/Longan Darius Wilkins Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Grafting Trees With Excessive Latex Dr. DILIP NANDWANI" Reply-To: Plant Tissue Culture -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Natural Microbial Compounds May Control Strep and Staph Infections ARS News Service" http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Biodegradable Decoy Reduces Insecticide Use Ben Hardin, (309) 681-6597, bhardin@asrr.arsusda.gov Mouth-Watering Mangos for Mass Marketing Judy McBride, (301) 504-1628, jmcbride@asrr.arsusda.gov ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Puerto Rico, Heard About Sainarong Rasananda's Article Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 22:02:30 -0400 From: "Juan A. Rivero" I have asked information about the use of Potassium chlorate to the CRFG and Eunice Meissner has suggested that I subscribe to your magazine (news letter) as all my questions are answered in the first issue of the year 2000. Any additional requirements for subscription? My snail mail address is Dr. Juan A. Rivero, Biology Dept., University of Puerto Rico, Mayaguez, PR 00681. Many thanks for your attention Juan A. Rivero mailto:jarivero@caribe.net Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, A Rare Fruit Newcomer, With Questions.... Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 09:57:09 -0500 (EST) From: GeorgeEasterly@webtv.net (George Easterly) My name is George Easterly my home address is 4115 lorraine Ave. Naples Fl. 34104 my e-mail address is GeorgeEasterly@webtv.com I am interested in receiving your news letter, and corresponding with someone familar with my area as I am new to growing "rare fruit" as of now I have some mangoes, some citrus, a sappodilla, a white sapote, avocado, rose apple, wax jambo, etc. I am trying to locate a rambutan and a mangoesteen but I haven't had much success, and I am open to any suggestions concerning obtaining some different trees. Thanks George mailto:GeorgeEasterly@webtv.net Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, Says "Sign me up!" Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 12:47:08 -0500 From: Allyson Mitchell I would like to receive the rare fruit newsletter. Please. I am Allyson Mitchell, of Plant City - Near Tampa, Florida Fruit trees I'm growing: Lemon, Lime, Orange, Navel, Kumquat, Loquat, Surinam Cherry, Barbados Cherry, Cherry of the Rio Grand, Pineapple Guava (2 kinds), Blueberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Dragon's Breath (bonsai orange tree), Pear, Peach, Plum, Elderberries, Figs, Apples, a very strange pine tree the has edible nuts - I can't remember the name to save myself - just got it, Pecan, Walnut (not doing well), strawberries, herbs (including Stevia) & veggies... Fruit trees I wanna grow: Jackfruit, Coffee, Pommelo, Kiwi, Mango... in fact, anything that isn't an avocado (YUCK!). Any other comments: Did someone say FRUIT??!!!!! Sign me up! Twice! Questions for members: Hmm... My only question right at this moment is: Why don't more people grow fruits or nuts in their back yards???? In my quest for fruit trees, I've found lots of nurseries who no longer sell them because "there's no market for them" - WHY??? Why is this just a hobby when potentially it could better the entire planet?! Call me Ally Appleseed, but it just makes more sense to grow your own - especially when some of the fruits can't be sold in a store because of harvest / shipping problems. Is it because of the expense? Time? I dunno. Allyson Mitchell mailto:saladhead@ij.net Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, With Questions; Please Help Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 14:20:40 EST From: Ed Lin Hello Leo, I am Edward Lin of Sarasota, Florida Fruit trees I am now growing: 1 kumquat (MeiWah), 1 sapodilla (alano), 2 Navel oranges, 2 persimmons (saijo and fuyugaki), 1 cherimoya (Fino de jeta), 1 sweetsop, 3 atemoyas (4826, Priestley and Geffner), 2 mangos (Bailey's marvel & Nam Doc Mai), 2 plums (GulfRed & GulfRuby), 2 figs (conadria and brown turkey), 3 longans (1degelman and 2 kohalas), 2 lychees (peerless and Hak Ip), 2 avocados (Brogdon & choquette) 20 papayas, 2 clumps of sugarcane, jicama and taro. Fruit trees I want to grow: miracle fruit, and more atemoyas. Comments or questions for newsletter readers: Question #1: It is generally acknowledged that the strongest branches that will support a heavy fruit crop are those that are horizontally branched from the main trunk. I would like to graft several high yield atemoya 4826 branches onto the branches (not trunk) of a low yield atemoya Bradley tree. What type (whip graft, cleft graft, best angle of cut, etc.) of graft will result in the strongest union? Question #2 I am looking for a book titled: Custard Apples - Cultivation and Crop Protection by Garth Sanewski of the Queensland Dept of Primary Industries (Australia) Does anyone know where I can order this book? Question #3 Does anyone know of one or more sources/web sites where lots of (or uncommon) books on fruit cultivation are sold? The FAO of WHO (Food & Agric. Organization of the the World Health Organization) publishes a series of well researched books on fruit crops (e.g. Lychee). I briefly came across the one on lychee years ago and was very impressed by it. I have been looking for that as well as other FAO-WHO publications on tropical fruit culture, propagation and protection during the past year. A few weeks ago, while searching the web pages of barnes&noble.com, I came across a FAO-WHO Codex Alimentarius "Tropical Fresh Fruits & Vegetables" Volume 5B. Thinking this would be a book on culture and propagation, I bought it. To my disappointment, this turned out to be a book on food law standards and not at all what I am looking for. Does anyone know where I can obtain a catalog of FAO books that deal with tropical fruit culture, propagation and protection and where I can order these books? I belong to a tropical fruit and nut society and all of the members would be interested to have the above information. I prefer to receive copy of the newsletter copied inside of email (INSTEAD of as an attachment). Thank you, Leo. I am looking forward to receiving your newsletters. If you have the time, please send me a few back issues. At your conveneince, I'd like to know a little about you (gardening profile) as well. What's your last name? I am a physician and live in Osprey, just outside of Sarasota, FL. Best regards, Ed Lin mailto:Link2itc@aol.com Subject: New Subscriber, Siberia, Russia(!) Date: Sun, 26 Dec 1999 02:21:38 PST From: "Sergei Moiseev" Dear Leo, I would like to subscribe to your newsletter. Here comes my personal information. I live in Novosibirsk, Western Siberia, Russia. Fruit I am now growing: pepino, tree tomato, passiflora ligularis, strawberry guava, cherimoya (all indoors) paw paw (asimina triloba) Fruit I want to grow: Naranjilla, casana, salal, crataegus arnoldiana, crataegus submollis. Yours sincerely, Sergei Moiseev mailto:moisserg@hotmail.com Subject: New Subscriber, Nicaragua: "Thinking about growing fruit trees" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 14:00:52 -0600 From: Conan Witzel I am Conan Witzel, of Managua, Nicaragua Thinking about growing fruit trees. Conan Witzel mailto:cwitzel@ibw.com.ni Subject: New Subscriber, Texas, Wants Information On Japanese Persimmon Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 18:28:56 -0600 From: Warren and Pat Rinehart I am Warren Rinehart of Leander, Texas From what I can gather, it appears that growing a non-astringent Fuyu Japanese Persimmon would work best for Central Texas with the hot summers and moderate winters. Does this tree need another Japanese Persimmon for cross pollination? Any specific information on the culture of Japanese Persimmons, especially the Fuyu, would be appreciated. Thank you. Warren and Pat Rinehart mailto:rinehart@prismnet.com Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego, Has Lots Of Plants Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 15:45:38 -0800 From: Patricia M Holland Dear Leo and Betty and Fruit News, We are Pat and Leo Holland. We live in low chill coastal San Diego, above a deep canyon. We get fog almost every night. [The trees we have include the following] Macadamia tree; Feijoa sellowana (Beechwood variety); Tropical Guava; Strawberry Guava; Black Sapote; White Sapote (Suebell variety); Brown Turkey Fig; Weeping Mullberry; Thai Papaya and seedling Mexican Papaya; Dr. White Cherimoya; Acerola Cherry (Manoa variety); Mango ; Keiffer Lime; Kiwi; Passion Fruit; Banana (Ice Cream variety); Red Current; varieties of Grape- Golden Muscat being the best; Dwarf Peaches, Tropical Snow Peach; Weeping Santa Rosa Plum; Dwarf Citrus; Pomegranite (Wonderful variety); Stella Cherry; Bush Cherry; Dwarf Pear; Apricot (Katy); Dwarf Almond (Garden Prince); Dwarf Olive; seedlings of Pecan and of Paw Paw; and seedlings of: Date Palm, Tamarind, and Loquat. Has any one gotten a tasty Paw Paw to fruit in low chill areas? What species? What variety? Wishing you all a Fruitful New Millennium! Sincerely, Pat and Leo Holland mailto:pat.holland@juno.com [Leo's Note: I apologize for having to edit extensively in order to get the introductory letter of Pat and Leo into this issue.] -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Atemoya leaf drop - It's Normal! Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 08:24:16 -0500 From: Richard Prior Atemoyas, like all my other annonae, have a dormant time (right now in fact) where the leaves drop. Unlike regular deciduous trees, not all the leaves drop before new buds begin to break. Dormancy is the best time for pruning too. My atemoya is about four years old and is showing buds for the first time on the new growth. Yeah! As for soil, well drained soil with a pH of 6-7 is best. Also a balanced fertilizer is best, like 8-8-8. Good luck! Richard Prior mailto:rprior@furman.edu Subject: Banana Split - How & When To Remove Banana Pups? Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 08:29:38 -0500 From: Richard Prior Does anyone have any handy tips on when and how best to split banana pups from their mother? Richard Prior mailto:rprior@furman.edu Subject: Mango Bloom Tease; Julie Blooms But No Fruit Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 08:35:40 -0500 From: Richard Prior I have a four year old, container grown mango (Julie) which bloomed last year, then again this year, but they were false alarms both times. The tiny flowers open on a spike, the petals fall leaving green balls a little larger than bb's, then then whole thing browns and dries. Does anyone know what's up with that? Richard Prior mailto:rprior@furman.edu Subject: Rare Fruit Report--Ecuador and Peru Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 05:20:20 -0800 (PST) From: Brandt Maxwell Hi, Leo, et al... I just thought I'd submit a fun little post about some of the rare fruits that I ate in Ecuador and Peru back in December. I took a fun trip there for a little over 2 weeks and saw a lot (including many different climates anywhere from lowland hot humid rainforest to snow on the slopes of Mt. Cotopaxi in Ecuador, and of course, the Machupicchu in Peru). Overall, Peru had the better quality fruit, and Ecuador had the more exotic fruit, though I might have found this partly because I had access to some American style grocery stores in Ecuador which had more variety (but maybe lower quality due to more shipping/distribution) versus the street vendors in Peru, which were my main access to fruit there. I had definitely the best mangos I've ever tasted in Peru (and I've eaten them fresh in southern Mexico and southeast Asia before, so that's saying a lot). Peru had many varieties of banana, most which were smaller in size that what we see in most US grocery stores. One variety I ate had beautiful pinkish-orange flesh. Fruits there were always sold very ripe (bananas usually were turning brown on the outside). Oranges were generally green there and used a lot for juicing (pineapples, which were double the normal US size, and papayas were also used in juices, often made on the spot by street vendors). Other fruits I often saw in Peru included avocados (and cheap too), peaches and pears (smaller and lower in quality than the US--but these appeared locally grown--which is possible at their higher elevations), pepino melons and figs. I tried a fruit that I didn't know what it was--it looked and tasted like a small cherry (it might have been a variety of cherry--the southern hemisphere December is like our June--cherry season). By the way, I took a small chance with eating unpeeled fruit (though I didn't drink the tap water, of course) and did just fine! Ecuador had the most exciting fruits of anyplace I've visited! I had guanabana (soursop), which was a large (5 lb.), green spiky fruit with a wide creamy inside that tasted like a pineapple/banana/cherimoya cross. There were lots of seeds, but they were large so they weren't an inconvenience. I liked the guanabana, though after about 2-3 pounds of it in one day, my body told me I'd had enough! The passion fruits were far better down there than here, though still they're best for juice, which I had fresh (delicious) at one restaurant. Granadillas were a pleasant surprise--this passion fruit relative was easy to eat with seeds that were quite digestible and surrounded by a clean, sweet, slimy gel. The peel (not edible) looked somewhat like that of an orange. The babacos were moderately sweet there, though not as good as the regular papayas. Blackberries were common there, and at twice the size of US blackberries at 1/10th the price, if even that, they were a treat. Other fruits--tree tomatoes (like a very firm, moderately sweet tomato), taxo (very sour passion-fruit relative--I didn't like taxo), badel (weird fruit--had a mild melon-like shell but with a very strong (too strong) passion-fruit interior with juice--this was a large fruit too--3-5 lbs.), naranjilla (a bit too sour), mamey sapote (tasted almost squash or pumpkin like, except very stringy), cherimoyas (delicious--far better than here) and of course the staples (bananas, papayas, avocados, pineapples, tomatoes, mangos and various melons). There were some "rare vegetables" too--I had melloco (olluco), which was a bit like a mild, yellow radish, but with the juice of okra, and I brought back cans of palm hearts and some dried bolete mushrooms to enjoy at home. Speaking of palms--much to my disappointment, I didn't find any palm fruits (despite my palm field guide which indicated some South American palms that have edible and cultivated fruits). Overall, the fruits were very good and interesting (just like the other aspects of the trip)!!! I certainly recommend Ecuador and Peru for anyone who's at least moderately adventurous, whether or not he or she is a rare fruit affectionado! Next trip---hopefully east Africa! Brandt Maxwell mailto:bmaxwe@sac.san.noaa.gov Subject: New Mango Reference Recommended Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 18:39:47 -0800 From: Doron Kletter Hi Leo, I came across a great mango reference that I am sure you'll find interesting: "The Mango: Botany, Production and Uses," edited by R. E. Litz, Tropical Research Center, University of Florida, USA, Published by CAB International, UK, 1997; ISBN 0 85199 127 0. Are you familiar with this book? It is not on the low cost side, but the information in the 600 pages or so is priceless if you need it. I would highly recommend it to anyone seriously involved with this fruit. It is a comprehensive scientific book on all aspects of mango biology, production, and utilization. Written by leading research workers from the USA, India, Pakistan, Australia, South Africa, Mexico, UK, France and Israel. Happy New Year, Doron Kletter mailto:kletter@impact.xerox.com Subject: Halocereus undatus Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 08:21:44 -0800 From: Nan Sterman To: EJG@webtv.net Hello Joyce I read your comments about growing halocereus undatus and John Bleck's success in germinating seedlings. I am wondering how to reach John to see if I could purchase/acquire one of those seedlings. I knew John years ago when I was a grad student at UCSB but it has been quite a while since I have had any contact with him. Can you tell me please how to get ahold of him? Also, there are a few websites with info on this plant (commonly referred to as pitahaya or pitajaya). Take a look at: http://www.pronet.net.gt/gweekly/071396/head3.htm http://www.cacti.com/html/hylocereus_undatus_1gal.html This month's CRFG Fruit Grower's article is indeed one of the most informative I've seen on these plants. Thanks Nan Sterman mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com Subject: Ripening bananas Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 12:43:16 -0400 From: Ramon Pabon To: nsterman@mindsovermatter.com, To be able to ripen bananas, first of all, they must be mature. Cold conditions will slow the process. The commercial way of doing it is by exposing them to ethylene. The simplest way of doing it at home is by placing the bananas in a bag, plastic or paper, with a few small holes along with ripe fruits or peels that will produce ethylene such as apples, avocados or other ripe bananas. The amount of ethylene required is minimal. It is found also in the exhaust of gas or diesel motors. This is why when we take bananas or plantains from Puerto Rico stateside unless we protect them they will start ripening rapidly in the baggage compartment of the airplane. Please let me know if you are succesful. Ramon Pabon mailto:rpabon@caribe.net Subject: Gopher Baskets and Bananas Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:20:15 -0800 From: Holzinger, Bob To: Nan Sternam Hi Nan, I make my gopher baskets out of 1 inch chicken wire. I buy the three foot wide roll and cut two pieces of wire to go into the hole. I lay them in the hole to overlap on the bottom and go up all sides of the hole (i.e. one goes north-south and the other east-west). So far I haven't had a breach of the wire. This also allows you to make the hole as big as you want and still have total coverage. The other question on ripening bananas this time of year is just a matter of patience. If the bananas are mature, then they should eventually ripen. I leave mine in the garage for however long it takes. You could try putting an ethylene source, like apples, in a large box with the bananas to speed the process, but I've never tried it. Usually I wait for the first bananas to turn yellow while the bunch is still on the tree before I cut the bunch off. In the winter the trees can get blown down or can fall down if there is too much rain (not this year!). Then you have to harvest and wait for nature to run its course. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Mango Varieties - Some Considerations Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:31:21 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Julian Hi Julian, I know of someone in Montecito who has 'Okrung' and would be willing to provide some wood. In fact my friend just called and wanted to know if I wanted some wood to graft, since the 'Okrung' was flushing. One thing you may want to consider when picking mango varieties to try in Thousand Oaks is their flowering habits. If a variety flowers only once and that flowering comes at the wrong time, then you get no fruit that year on that tree. That's what happened to me in Ventura this past year with 'Kent'. On the other hand, my 'Winters' and 'Manila' trees flowered again and I got some fruit set on them. I have heard of another variety to try that won't take "no" for an answer. It flowers and flowers and flowers until it sets fruit. The cultivar is called 'Repoza' or 'Repozo' and the only source I know is Frankie's Nursery on Oahu. I will be talking about Frankie's Nursery in February at the Ventura/Santa Barbara CRFG chapter meeting at Ventura College. Stop by and get some information on ordering from Frankie. Take care, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Poor fruit in stores Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 09:40:58 -0800 From: Holzinger, Bob To: Sven Hi Sven, When it comes to fruit, everything is relative. If you've never had a good fruit, you don't know any different. But once you've tasted fruit right off the tree, bush or vine, then store-bought fruit just doesn't get it. I've stopped buying fruit from stores and even at the Farmer's Markets the stone fruits are usually picked too green to have full flavor. As for the Mamey, the few that I have seen this side of the border were too far gone to do anything except make a shake or smoothy with them. I think Jose was right, go to Tijuana and see what you can find there. But I have to say that the Mamey's I have tasted in TJ were not nearly as good as the 'Pantin' Mamey I had at Frankie's Nursery on Oahu. Of course that was picked ripe right off the tree, but that's what I mean about getting spoiled. I guess you just have to grow everything for yourself or else travel alot to warm climates once a year. Happy growing, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Don't confuse chilling and hardiness! Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 16:00:13 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Greetings. In each of the last two issues of RFNO I have seen different correspondents use "chill hours" in connection with questions about where cold-tolerant subtropicals can be grown. Every fruit-grower should understand that there is only a weak connection between chilling accumulation and minimum temperatures. One could live in a location that gets 500-600 chill hours in the winter without ever experiencing a freezing temperature (or even frost!), and therefore not losing tender subtropicals to freezing weather. The reason is that ideal chilling temperatures are between about 38 and 42 degrees Fahrenheit, and chilling can be accumulated (but a slower rate) even up to the upper 50s. On the other hand, no chill is accumulated when the temperature is below around 34 (precisely the range where one starts worrying about tender plants), and the relation between hours at a given temperature and chill turns negative above 60. Thus some coastal areas can get 500 hours or more, yet never have a frost. On the other hand, some inland areas that have both freezing nights and very warm days might get very low chill accumulations, yet be unable to grow the more tender subtropical plants. For all these reasons, the total chill accumulated is a very poor proxy for how cold (in an absolute sense) your location gets. And USDA zones and other indicators of expected minimum temperatures are almost useless for determining where varieties of deciduous fruits will do well (though that doesn't stop some national catalogues from using them this way!). Matthew Shugart Carlsbad, California mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Subject: Genip, Mam—n, Mamoncillo or Quenepa Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 09:03:43 -0400 From: Juan A. Rivero Melicoccus bijugatus is known as genip or ginep in the Virgin Islands and in the English trade but this is an unfortunate name as it corresponds more properly to the jagua or genipa, Genipa americana, a tree that belongs to a completele different family. It is possible that genip may be a distortion of quenepa, which is the common name in Puerto Rico, and also in Colombia, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Guadaloupe (quenette) and French Guiana. Flowers are mostly male and female in different trees (dioecious), a factor to be considered when buying seedlings. There are some excellent varieties and Milton PŽrez, of Jardines Eneida, Box 186, Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico, ha succeeded in grafting them >( 787)51-5918 > I am not sure if he exports them. Juan A. Rivero mailto:jarivero@caribe.net Subject: Brown leafs in rambutans and pulasans Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 09:22:01 -0400 From: "Juan A. Rivero" In Puerto Rico, rambutans and pulasans develop a browning of the leaves. It starts at the tip and continues to about halfway along the leaves, but rarely involves all the blade . No fungicide or bactericide seems to stop it. Potassium doesn't help. Somebody advised a combination of peat moss and sand but it didn't work either. Has anyone had a similar experience? Juan Subject: Longan and mata kucing Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 15:37:30 -0400 From: "Juan A. Rivero" I asked a friend from Malaysia to please send me seeds of mata kucing. He sent two batches of seeds, one of a small mata kucing and the other of large one. The small fruited one germinated into what I believe is longan, at least it is not different from the adult longan trees I have. The other one is totally different: the leaves are larger, of a lighter green color and the margins are dentate (they look as if they have well spaced spines along the margins, but there are no spines) and the upper, most tender section of the stem is hairy. I thought this could be the true mata kucing but I am told that the fruit of tha mata kucing is smaller than the longan and according to my friend (who is not too knowledgeable about fruits), this was larger. Can anybody help? Sincerely, Juan A. Rivero mailto:jarivero@caribe.net Subject: Re: Longan and mata kucing Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 13:09:38 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: "Juan A. Rivero" Juan, Cornucopia II index shows that on page is a listing for 'mata kuching' and the brief listing says: Nephelium glabrum - Phillipine ryugan, Mata kuching [PL]. The aril of the fruit is sweet and edible. It is thin, juicy, and translucent. Tropical Asia. BURKILL, TUNGGAL; E29, N84 I'll post your question. Leo Subject: Usage of potassium and sodium chlorates to induce longans to flower Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 16:51:42 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda CC: "CHUNG-RUEY (DR.) YEN" I have received some requests on how to apply potassium chlorate in order to induce longans to flower, so I have decided to write on the topic in some details. If I make some errors or omissions, perhaps Dr. Yen of Taiwan wilkl correct me. Dr. Yen has been working on this before I did, obtained results before I did, and has done more works on this than anyone to-date. Well, here goes... How to apply potsassium or sodium chlorates to the soil in order to induce it to flower. 1. You should apply the chemicals when the new flush of young leaves are fully matured. At the very least, you should wait until the new flush of young leaves are fully expanded before applying the chemicals. To apply the chemicals at other times may not result in a satisfactory result. 2. You should ensure that the soil is fairly dry for about 15 to 30 days before the application. Excess water and nitrogen may result in new flush or an unsatisfactory mixture of new flush and flowering instead of the desired result. Nitrogen uptake is facilitated by the presence of water in the soil. If the tree shows sign of withering, you should apply just enough water to prevent it from withering. 3. Clear the ground beneath the canopy, but do not till the ground. If the soil is too dry, water the soil to make it well-damp a day or two before the application of the chemical. 4. The quantity of the chemical used depends on many factors, such as the purity or concentration of the chemical, the type of soil, the soil moisture, the weather, the size of the canopy, the cultivar, the time of the year, etc. The following recommendations assume a 95% purity of the chemical, sandy, well-irrigated soil, dry weather and soil, a temperature of 14-20 degree celsius, and about one and a half month before the natural flowering period. Canopy Diameter (metres) Quantity (grams) Per Tree 4-5 100-200 5-7 200-400 more than 7 500 5. Dissolve thoroughly the chemical in 80 litres of water. 6. Water the perimeter of the canopy, with the solution, in a ring about half a metre wide. This is the area where there is the highest root density. 7. During the first 10 days after the application, water the soil well to keep it constantly damp. This facilitates the uptake of the chemical, reduces the toxicity of the chemical to the tree and reduces the accumulation of the chemical in the soil. 8. Flowering should begin about 20-30 days after the application, although in some adverse conditions, such as colod weather, it may take longer to flower. Keep the soil damp to facilitate the development of the pannicles. 9. Sufficient water for the entire period of flowering and fruit development is essential. 10. It is recommended that flowering is induced in alternate years to prevent degeneration of the tree. Induced flowering is incredibly profused. 11. Application of an excess amount may be detrimental to the tree. Points To Ponder 1. Do not apply the chemical when the new flush is still expanding. 2. You should apply the chemical to healthy trees only. 3. Sufficient water throughout the entire flowering and fruiting period is a must. 4. Do not mix the chemical with other substance. In some cases or with some cultivars, the quality of the fruit produced by induction is not as good as that produced naturally. We are still trying to correct this. Commercial grades is satisfactory for the purpose. Reagent or laboratory grade is much much more expensive, and is not recommended. Some Properties Of Potasssium Chlorate And Sodium Chlorate 1. May explode when mixed with sulphur. 2. Potassium chlorate is an essential ingredient in the fire works in Thailand. 3. The chemical is not flammable, but can be a catalyst and enhances the flammability propery of other substances. 4. Sodium chlorate is a herbicide. 5. The pure compound is a white powder or clear crystals. 6. The chemicals can dissolve in water and other solvents, such as alcohols, alkalines and glycerols. Caveat - Warnings 1. The chemical can explode if the temperature is very high. 2. Store well away from flammable materials, sparks. 3. Do not mix with sulphur, charcoal, urea, ammonium compounds, sulphate compounds, sugar and organic compounds. The mixture may be highly explosive. Thirty-five people died as a result of an explosion in an illegal potassium chlorate warehouse in Thailand - and this was on a Sunday! Obviously, the details are not clear, but it is surmised that a large amount of potasssium chlorate was being mixed with sulphur, and there was some sparks from a machine nearby. 4. Excessive use of the chemical may be detrimental to the tree. 5. Both chemicals are toxic to human and animals. They should be handled with care. I should perhaps add that, in my opinion, the chemicals are safe, if properly handled, and that is not a difficult task. Another comment. Although there is still a lot of research and experiments to be done, the preliminary results suggest that there are no serious repercussions to humans, trees and the environments, if properly used. I apologize for the length of this article, but I do feel it important to provide sufficient details to prevent misunderstandings. Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: Rivenrock Gardens: Cactus Catalog Page, Edible And Landscape Cactus Plants Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 05:52:09 -0800 From: Leo Manuel http://www.rivenrock.com/catalog2.html [Note: This may be of interest for its cactus photographs. There are numerous cactus plants for sale, also, both edible and landscape. Leo] Subject: Botanical Gardens of the World Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 05:55:52 -0800 From: Leo Manuel http://www.stives.com/botanical.html [Note: This site may have been recommended before. If you're planning a trip and want to visit available botanical gardens, check here to see what's available. Leo] Here is our current selection of some of the best sites and resources for botanical gardens. This list will be updated often. Subject: Dirt Cheap Organics Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 06:00:08 -0800 From: Leo Manuel http://www.neteze.com/dB/index.htm [Note: I'm listing this without any personal experience, so let us know if you find it worthwhile. Leo] Subject: Cacti and Succulents on Stamps ordering information Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 06:06:23 -0800 From: Leo Manuel http://www.cactus-mall.com/stamps/stamps.html [Note: Want to see some beautiful postage stamps with pictures of cacti and succulents, with many countries represented, from Albania to Zimbabwe? If you are as easily distracted as I am, you may want to skip it.... Leo] Subject: The Figs of Israel [Great photographs and discussion of figs] Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 05:54:16 -0800 From: Leo Manuel http://home.earthlink.net/~raygivan/israel.html "Other brebas that we ate were Mission, Bidan, Black Italian, "French" (which is Dauphine) and Khdari. No 1 in taste & aroma was the Khdari, second were the Mission and Bidan together, then the others. Bidan is named after the Arab village by the same name in Samaria. It1s a small fig with a fantastic reddish color, bears two crops fantastic and has a good flavor" The Figs of Israel Daniel Yakir is an Israeli fig enthusiast who also has fine photographic skills. One of his ambitions is to identify and photograph all of the figs grown in Israel. Last spring he travelled in the Jordan River Valley searching for brebas to sample and to photograph. Here is a composite of several e-mail he sent me with some photos of his trip. I have also added few photos of main crop figs grown in Israel as well... Most of the figs were already picked but we had enough to eat and be impressed by the flavors. Most of the crop is the Nazarati verity. The brebas are very big but the taste to my opinion is only fair. The Nazarati variety is probably White Bosnian. Other brebas that we ate were Mission, Bidan, Black Italian, "French" (which is Dauphine) and Khdari. No 1 in taste & aroma was the Khdari, second were the Mission and Bidan together, then the others. Bidan is named after the Arab village by the same name in Samaria. It1s a small fig with a fantastic reddish color, bears two crops fantastic and has a good flavor I don't have much experience with brebas, but my impression is that the summer figs are aromatic, sweeter and tastier. . . .[This matches my own experience.] Figs are not a significant commercial crop in Israel, but even hobbyists and small growers apply rather advanced horticultural techniques and technologies. The net, says Daniel, keeps insects out and allows the grower to avoid completely the need to use insecticides. Here is selection of what Daniel assures me are the best figs in Israel: The Khurtmani (meaning the owner of the bow or nose), Daniel says, is considered by some to be the best fig grown in Israel. It is probably the fig we call Brunswick. The synonyms for it in Israel are Mwazi (the name given by the villagers of Judea) and Esely which means honey. It is a big tree. Moderately fruitful The Sbayi, which means "spotted" in Arabic, is the second main crop fig in Israel. It was first described by Grasovsky and Weitz in 1932.(The purple ribs are a distinguishing characteristic.) It is sweet and good for fresh consumption. Isreali experts consider it second only to Khurtmani in taste, aroma, and quality in Isreael. It has never been imported into the United States Grasovsky and Weitz also described Byadi in their 1932 work, Fig-growing in Palestine. It is also known as Falahi. According Condit, Byadi trees tend to be small and not very productive. The villagers from the Galilee tell Daniel that the Byadi is very productive. Gravsovsky and Weits say it is one of the most productive varieties in the region.The fruit is sweet and has small seeds and few of them. Mainly used for drying. Even today Byadi is grown extensively by the villagers in the Lower Galilee and during end of August and all of September you can buy Byadi figs in the roadside stands in small baskets. They are good for fresh use and really excellent for jam preparation. It is also good for drying and is the main variety around Gush Halav ( Gish ) where the farmers dry them to paste form.The Byadi main crop is plentiful, but it only gives a very few brebas . Hdari, also transliterated as Khdari, comes from the Arabic word for green, khadar. Hdari is very popular in all the regions of Israel. The fig is medium to large and the tree is big (very big if irrigated). Two crops. Brebas are large (to 2 1/2 ounces or 65 grams) and very tasty. The summer figs are a little smaller (to 1 3/4 ounces or 50 grams) and even tastier. Described by Grasowski and Weitz as excellent variety for fresh eating. Condit says it is a Smyrna-type fig and needs caprification to bear fruit. However, many areas where it is grown in Israel do not have caprifigs, so he is probably wrong. Worth importing for trial. Shtawi (Stav means autumn in Hebrew) is a very late fig grown in Samaria (modern West Bank) and the Galilee. Also described by Grasovsky and Weitz. One advantage to this fig is the almost-closed eye which might make it suitable for humid areas like the American South. They did not, however, describe its quality and productivity. Hmadi (probably from the Hebrew word hamuts which means acid) was also described by Grasovsky and Weitz. It is a small fig with a sub-acid flavor "very much relished by the fellaheen [RG--an Arabic term for peasants]." Around the town of Taibe the farmers grow, even today, the Hmadi figs. It seems that they specialized in this variety and during summer, they produce relatively large nice looking green figs decorated with strong red lines. The taste is good and refreshing. So if you wish to eat some Hmadi figs, during season, all you have to do is to drive north on Road 444. When you approach Taibe look carefully to your right and you will see a few booths that sell figs. Don't hesitate! Buy at least 1 kilogram of those fine reddish Hmadi figs. Who knows? You might even return home with a few left in your bag. Daniel © Copyright, Ray Givan, 1997, 1998, 1999. Permission to download and print for personal use is granted to viewer. All other rights are reserved. Subject: The Cloudforest Gardener Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 21:07:51 -0800 Recommended by: Raymond Gerlach http://www.cloudforest.com/ [Neat site! Leo] ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ Subject: Re: Kaki persimmons for zone 6 [nafex] Digest Number 212 Date: 6 Jan 2000 12:10:59 -0000 From: "David A. Consolvo" I have done some evaluations of Professor Shank's kaki persimmon orchard on the eastern shore of Maryland, probably zone 7. The orchard is about 30 years old I think, or more. Some of the least astringent cultivars which have survived the best are Kawabata, Gwangyang, and Aizu-Michirazu. Non-astringent when seeded (i.e. there's a male nearby) include Taber 129 and Giboshi. Inchon and Hagakushi I think one needs to wait until they're softish, but have less astringency than most. I hope to write an article about my evaluations someday for Pomona. This orchard is a tremendous resource, as there are dozens of varieties. Kyungsun Ban-Si is the cultivar which, though astringent until soft, is the longest keeper from a healthy tree. This aids me in my goal to have my own fresh fruit year-round. Michael McConkey at Edible Landscaping in Virginia has carried Kyungsun Ban-Si and some other selections, as he has evaluated Professor Shank's orchard too. Anybody know where I can buy some trees of Aizu-Michurazu? It's awesome. David Consolvo Hungrytown Hollow Virginia mailto:fruitopia@firstva.com -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Re: Seed Planting Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 11:33:17 -0500 From: Bob Cannon Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Richard, There can be great variation when planting seeds. It is quite important to not plant too deeply. The seeds you mention, lemon, lime, sugar apple, passion fruit (Passiflora sp.) have all done well for me when planted at a depth about the same as the seed size. This is to say about 1/4 inch. Time varies with temperature age of seed and other factors but on the average these should show something within a month. To improve your rate of success scarify (scratch) the seeds with the edge of a file and soak them in water for 6-24 hours. The use of a soil-less potting mix helps control disease and gives you some better control over the seedlings. You might also dust the seeds (or treat the soil) at planting with a Mycorrhizal product, tests show that this increases root growth and nutrient uptake. (In the near future I will be listing a Mycorrhizal product for sale on the web page. My experience over the past couple of years has convinced me of the value of using friendly fungus to promote healthy plants). The sugar apple (Annona squamosa) is the most 'inconsistent' seed listed. I have had seed in the same batch, from the same fruit germinate in as little as a week and as long as three months. If it seems they are not going to come up don't give up, wait a while longer. BTW most Passiflora do much better if there are two different seedlings in the planting. Most do not set fruit well, if at all, when pollinated with their own pollen. I would keep 3-4 seedlings for pollen to ensure fruit set. Exceptions to this do exist and are sold by some nurseries. I have a single P. quadrangularis that over the past three years has had hundreds of flowers. This year it set its first and only fruit. Where the pollen came from I don't know (I have tried applying pollen from P. edulis to no avail). The fruit is about 8 inches long and quite plump, looking somewhat like a papaya. When it ripens I'll let the group know if it has many seeds and what the flavour is like. Best of growing, Bob http://www.gate.net/~tfnews mailto:tfnews@gate.net Richard Himbarger wrote: > > Can anyone tell me how deep I should plant lemon, lime, sugar apple, and > passion fruit seeds and how long it should be before they come up. > Richard Subject: [rarefruit] Re: "Dwarfed citrus" Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 21:43:56 -0800 From: "Malcolm Manners" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com 'Flying Dragon' is a form of Poncirus trifoliata. It provides extreme dwarfing when used as a rootstock under citrus. We have trees on our campus well over 10 years old, which look like about 2-year-old trees. For less extreme dwarfing, you can use 'Rusk' citrange. Some research has been done (primarily in Australia), using citron (Citrus medica) rootstock, and various strains of the exocortis viroid. They got some very good dwarfing, but the trees had other problems, such as shelling of the bark of the lower trunk, allowing phytophthora to get in. Some of the new intergeneric somatic hybrids being produced by Dr. Jude Grosser (University of Florida Citrus Research and Education Center, Lake Alfred), may turn out to be useful as dwarfing stocks as well. Malcolm Manners mailto:mmmavocado@aol.com Dept. of Citrus and Environmental Horticulture Florida Southern College Lakeland Re: What Is Miracle Fruit? Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 11:45:19 PST From: "W C" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com John, The miracle fruit (Synsepalum dulcificum) is a slow-growing tree that produces 1/2"-3/4" red berries that possess a most interesting characteristic. While the fruit itself is nothing out of this world, it contains an enzyme that, when rolled around in the mouth, inhibits the sour taste buds. Thus, you can take a lemon, or any other sour fruit, and eat it like it was candy. The slightest amount of sweetness is greatly exaggerated. It is a neat little plant that I like to show to new fruit enthusiasts, children, etc. In South Florida, there are several places that offer it for sale. You can plant it (and watch it thrive) in pure peat! Warren mailto:wpc728@hotmail.com Re: Chicken-tongue Litchi/Longan Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 16:27:27 EST From: Darius Wilkins Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Chicken tongue litchis and longans are dependent on the variety and whether there is any pollination. For example, the classic chicken tongue variety is Haak Ip. Sometimes another variety will give chicken tongue fruit if it is not pollinated. I have not heard of any longan variety specifically noted for small seeds. Darius Wilkins mailto:Sgw8@aol.com Subject: Grafting Trees With Excessive Latex Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 02:00:36 GMT From: "Dr. DILIP NANDWANI" Reply-To: Plant Tissue Culture Hi TCrs, We have encountered a problem of latex in successful grafting of breadfruit trees. A high amount of latex exudes out as soon as we cut the branch of tree which is the main hurdle in union of graft. Your advise and suggestions shall be greatly appreciated in this matter.Could somebody suggest the websites for nursery techniques e.g. grafting etc. are most welcome. Many thanks D.Nandwani, Ph.D Researcher (Agriculture) mailto:dilipn2@HOTMAIL.COM -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Natural Microbial Compounds May Control Strep and Staph Infections Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 10:07:09 -0500 From: "ARS News Service" ----------- Hank Becker, (301) 504-1624, hbecker@asrr.arsusda.gov January 3, 2000 ----------- Scientists searching for natural compounds to control fungi in plants may have stumbled onto new antibiotics that control Streptococcus and Staphylococcus bacteria. Agricultural Research Service scientists at Lane, Okla., and College Station, Texas, say they have discovered a new family of antibiotic compounds--not related to penicillin--with potent antimicrobial activity. They made their find while looking for microbial compounds to control diseases like root rot of muskmelon and watermelon plants. The discovery and use of antibiotics like penicillin against infectious disease have added about 20 years to the average human life expectancy in developed countries. However, today, up to 80 percent of all strains of Staphylococcus are resistant to penicillin and its derivative forms. Similar resistance to penicillin and other antibiotics has been observed in other bacterial pathogens, like Streptococcus. The scientists have isolated six compounds that they say exhibit some degree of antibiotic activity against a broad spectrum of gram-negative and/or gram-positive bacteria of concern to both agricultural and health professionals. The compounds varied in their selectivity and ability to retard growth or kill important bacterial pathogens. The chemical makeup of the cell wall--one of the several techniques used to classify bacteria--determines whether a bacteria is gram-positive or gram-negative. Agrobacterium, Erwinia and Pseudomonas are gram-negative bacteria. Bacillus, Micrococcus, Staphylococcus and Streptococcus are gram-positive bacteria. Three of the compounds exhibited excellent activity against the genera Staphylococcus and Streptococcus that cause diseases in humans. The scientists say one of the six compounds exhibited strong antibiotic activity against all seven bacterial species tested. Just 10 micrograms per milliliter totally repressed growth of or killed species of gram-positive bacteria within the genera Micrococcus, Streptococcus, Staphylococcus and Bacillus. As pathogens develop resistance, new and different antibiotics must be found to replace those currently available. The scientists say that some of their compounds may be as good as or better than commercial antibiotics at resisting bacterial infections and could be of considerable interest to the pharmaceutical industry. ARS is the chief research arm of USDA. ---------- Scientific contact: Benny Bruton, bbruton-usda@lane-ag.org. ---------- Subject: Biodegradable Decoy Reduces Insecticide Use Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:53:04 -0500 Ben Hardin, (309) 681-6597, bhardin@asrr.arsusda.gov January 12, 2000 A biodegradable decoy that "fatally attracts" apple maggot flies or other insect pests has been patented by Agricultural Research Service scientists and cooperators. Hung in trees at the edge of orchards, the spherical decoy--coated with sugar, high fructose corn syrup, latex enamel paint and an insecticide--may provide an alternative to repeated chemical insecticide sprays. If not controlled, 1/4-inch-long, black-and-white-striped adult apple maggot flies can inflict millions of dollars in damage to orchards. They lay eggs just below the apples' skins. Maggots hatch and feed, creating tunnels through the apples, which begin to decay and then drop to the ground. ARS scientists at the National Center for Agricultural Utilization Research at Peoria, Ill., researched the decoy with colleagues at the University of Massachusetts at Amherst; Michigan State University at East Lansing; and the Biotechnology Research and Development Corp. at Peoria. The decoy is designed to suit insects' preferences for color, shape, size and surface texture. Apple maggot flies fall for an apple-size sphere painted black which, like a red apple, doesn't reflect ultraviolet light. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. Preliminary field tests showed the decoy maintained 70 percent of its insect-killing power after three weeks in Massachusetts orchards. And in other tests, a similar decoy protected apples as well as three applications of the commonly used insecticide azinphosmethyl. Commercial manufacture and sales of the decoys containing registered pesticides for use in the United States would require approval by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Fruit Spheres Inc., Macomb, Ill., has agreed to produce decoys for large-scale tests on the apple maggot fly and related insects such as the blueberry maggot fly, the cherry fruit fly and the walnut husk fly. An article about the research appears in the January issue of ARS' Agricultural Research magazine, which can be found on the web at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan00/decoy0100.htm ---------- You can also get the latest ARS news on the World Wide Web at http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - January 15, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - February 1, 2000 - AKA RFN200002A.txt --Notes In Passing For San Diego Locals: I bought more twinwall polycarbonate than I needed for my greenhouse/hotbed project. I paid $48 for each full sheet 48" x 96" which was supposed to be reduced from the usual price. If anyone is interested in buying it from me, I'd like to hear from you, before I store it in the garage. All reasonable offers will be considered. Leo ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, Oregon - What Can I Grow? Darcy Hamilton New Subscriber, CA, With Fruit Questions Art Kohl --Readers Write Renewing Acquaintances Rick Bjorlkund Re: Splitting banana trees Jay Dee To: Richard Re: Ed's Questions Steph To: Ed Lin Sugar Apple Seeds - Where To Buy? Julie Jones" Re: 4826 atemoya Ed To: Steph Banana pups Eunice Messner To: Richard Mangoes - Blooming Out Of Season - Mine Too Geoff Buckner Dragon Fruit Wim Weer Picture-Red Etlingera Flowering See OldRFN Wim Weer Re: Atemoya Doron Kletter To: Edward Lemon Tree Not So Pretty! SabanInc@aol.com Comprehensive reference books on tropical fruits Ed To: Doron Frost protection (using Christmas lights?) Ed Re: Frost protection (using Christmas lights?) Leo Manuel To: Ed Re: Frost protection (using Christmas lights?) Leo Manuel To: Ed This 'n That Leo Manuel To: Bob Holzinger Re: This 'n That Bob Holzinger To: Leo Re: Applying Mycorrhizal fungus to Bananas Darryl Re: FWD: dragon fruit Question Sven Merten Mangos - Our Differing Preferences Eunice Messner To: bholzing@amgen.com Persimmon Pollination - Maybe Desirable - See Web Page Doug Hyers See: Cross Timbers Horticulture at http://www-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/steph/stephn6.html Re: Botanical Gardens Of World - Dead Link! Oscar Jaitt Re: Pawpaw trees surviving and fruiting in warm climates? Patricia M Holland To: Doug Jones --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Cross Timbers Horticulture Recommended by Doug Hyers http://www-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/steph/stephn6.html "Translations" Web Page To Translate Between Several Languages http://babelfish.altavista.digital.com/cgi-bin/translate? [See sample in translation of letter from Julio San Roman, below] --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List Shredded Office Paper - An interesting and effective mulch idea Nikolai@powersurfr.com - [nafex] Digest Number 228 --From NEWCROPS List RE: sapote Anna Whipkey --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Pepino Dulce Sven Merten Re: Pepino Dulce Richard Himbarger Pepino dulce Roger Meyer Garcinia spicata Warren C Re: Pitaya fruit Dragon" Neem Propagation and Giant Passionfruit Oscar Jaitt Re: Neem Propagation and Giant Passionfruit Bob Cannon Giant Passionfruit (Passiflora quadrangularis) Oscar Jaitt Re: Giant Passionfruit (Passiflora quadrangularis) Bob Cannon Re: Pitaya fruit Julio San Roman Re: Pitaya fruit John Carrasquillo -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Villain Insect Enlisted for Good Deeds (Pollinating Annona) Ben Hardin mailto:bhardin@asrr.arsusda.gov ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Oregon - What Can I Grow? Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:03:57 -0800 From: dhamilton@bco.com To: leom@rarefruit.com Hi, I am Darcy Hamilton, in Ashland, Oregon, with email either leorizen7@aol.com -or- dhamilton@bco.com Interested in growing cherimoya, pawpaw, kiwi, banana, white sapote... I'm not in a place where I can have a large greenhouse, but will be in the future. Right now, I just want to try outside and move indoors when needed. Where can I find trees? What are easier to grow? (Self-pollinating). Thanks for any help you can give. Darcy Hamilton mailto:dhamilton@bco.com Subject: New Subscriber, CA, With Fruit Questions Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 23:58:10 EST From: AKohlPE@aol.com I'm a member of CRFG, a retired chemical engineer, and interested in growing rare fruit as a hobby. My name is Arthur (Art) Kohl; address Woodland Hills, CA, 91367; Email address AKohlPE@AOL.com. Some of the plants in my yard are persimmon (both hachiya and Fuyu), apple (Anna and Dorset), Citrus (orange, oroblanco, mineola tangelo, bears lime, valencia orange, meyer and eureka lemon}, babaco papaya, white sapote, pepino dulce, kei apple, capulin cherry, blueberry, tamarillo, and the usual plums, apricots, and peaches. Woodland Hills seems to be the coldest (and also the hottest) place in the San Fernanco Valley so I have been reluctant to try mango and cheremoya trees. We would be interested in new ideas for fruit to try. Our Sapotes and Oroblancos are delicious, but most of the other rare fruit (i.e. babaco, pepino, kei apple) are edible but not real tasty. Perhaps one of your experts can tell us how to pick and ripen hachiya persimmons properly so that they get soft and sweet without drying up or rotting. Yours truly, Art Kohl mailto:AKohlPE@aol.com -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Renewing Acquaintances Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:00:05 EST From: PlantguyR1@aol.com To: leom@rarefruit.com Leo, How have you been? My bananas are slowly adjusting to their new home since I've moved, and not liking the cold weather currently very much. Can you give me the info on how to subscribe to your rare fruit newsletter? Thanks, Rick Bjorlkund (Los Angeles) mailto:PlantguyR1@aol.com Subject: Splitting banana trees Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:25:01 PST From: Jay Dee To: Richard Hi Richard I'm new to growing tropical fruits, but one of the things that I have been growing is bananas. I'm not an expert, I've only been living in sub-tropical florida for about 6 years now and growing fruit trees for the last 3 or 4 years. As you probably know bananas are not really trees and are not woody. (They can be easily cut down with a shovel blade, and I have yet to see a real tree that I can do that to!) But sometimes I call them trees and sometimes plants, I don't mean to confuse you. HOW: From what I have seen and have experienced, bananas are very tough plants to kill. When I purchased mine I went out in the field with the nursery's owner who pointed out the varieties I had asked for and asked what size I wanted. There was every size from ankle high to more then 10 feet high. I pointed out one about hip high, figuring it'll be easier to carry in a car then a ten footer. He then proceeded to split it from the mother tree by using a long, and heavy, straight metal "crow bar" that had a wide flat end on it (but not as wide as a shovel). The wide end was used to cut between the mother tree and the daughter tree (as he called them) simply by slamming the crow bar between the two a couple of times. He then grabbed the trunk of the daughter tree and pulled it out of the ground. He had good soil, no super human forces involved. I purchased mine as a corm and not as rooted. It was cheaper that way, rooted (potted) plants cost more but does have the advantage of taking root faster. So he proceeded to cut the roots off with a knife. Many times removing some of the corm with the roots, when he was done there was not a single trace of roots left. After planting them (the next day) the leaves died off. Both varieties I purchased this way have been growing just fine. After a few weeks new leaves started growing on one and about a month later the other. Although they did take awhile to start growing and more then once thought the slower of the two was dead. But it wasn't. And after 6 months of growing you would not know one was slower to start growing by height. My wife, having seen him doing this, had wondered how difficult it was to do. We have a stand of poor quality bananas (seeds like little stones) by a canal that we had been thinking about hiring someone to remove. But instead she has tried removing several trees herself using a shovel and has found that by first splitting mother/daughter plants and then stepping on the shovel blade to drive it under the corm and then by stepping on the shovel handle the corms pretty much popped out of the ground. But we do have very sandy soil, heavy clay soil might be more difficult. She says that with the couple of plants she had tried it was easy to do. WHEN: As for when. Anytime you wish to, seems to work. We have cut some of the old trees back to the ground and they re-grow right up through the old stump and within a few weeks are head tall again. Seems like they can't be killed. We were given instructions for two methods for growing them. The first was to have three plants growing at one time in the same place. Ideally one full grown that's fruiting, one half grown, and one just starting out of the ground. As a plant is picked cut it back halfway to the ground, then when it turns brown cut it all the way back (supposedly this should kill it, but some old ones by the canal I had done this to didn't). In this way there would be bananas fruiting every couple of months from the "same" plant. Any extra daughter plants should be removed or the plants start to crowd each other too much. (Ideally with enough three plant groupings and good timing you could have ripe bananas all year.) The second method is to remove each daughter plant as it forms and plant it in a separate location. And when the mother plant is picked it then can be removed and discarded. (and It's location replanted.) The problem with the first method is that the daughter plants are in a ring around the central mother plant, then new daughter plants form a ring around the ring of old daughter plants (now mother plants), and newer daughter plants form in a ring around the ring of old daughter plants and so on. This leaves a dead center that gets ever larger, eventually they would have to be all dug up and replanted as single mother plants so the cycle can be restarted. Each banana plant usually produces only one bunch of bananas, even though the plant will keep on growing it is now only taking up space. Generally each plant grows and produces bananas in about 1 to 1.5 years. There is a banana patch behind my house by a canal that has never been cut done in at least 5 years, and I have never seen a bunch of bananas on them. Just remember that bananas are very heavy feeders. The place I bought my banana plants grow only bananas, they recommend 6-2-12 fertilizer "applying 1 pound monthly and increasing up to 3 pounds as more growth occurs". I planted planted mine using two different methods. One I used peat moss, composted manure, and sand (my soil) and the other I removed the sand and replaced it with a large bag of peat moss (not mixed with the soil). The one in peat moss seems to have started growing faster and still seems to have more leaves on it. But not being the same variety this may not be a fair comparison. The nusery does sell plants by mail order and are on the web (http://www.going-bananas.com). The nursery is called "Going Bananas" and is located in Homestead Florida. Going Bananas can also be found as a link from "Zone Ten" nursery (http://www.zoneten.com). Both have good quality plants and both have been a pleasure to shop at. hope this helps some Jay Dee mailto:bolo17@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Ed's Questions Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 21:41:22 -1000 From: fruition@shaka.com To: Ed Lin Hi Ed, I'm a small tropical fruit grower (durians!) in Maui. I just had a thought about each of your questions so I thought I'd respond. re: Cleft Grafts I've just used cleft grafts to topwork all tropical fruit trees including Annonas. It's always seemed satisfactory except that during this last storm a graft I did for a neighbor blew over and is now growing straight down. He took the wrapping off a bit soon, but I am reconsidering my techniques. Here in Hawaii we have just two of the atemoya cultivars that I'm aware of, African Pride and Geffner. I'd like to bring in more cultivars. Can you or anyone else send us scionwood of choice atemoya cultivars? I'm unfamiliar with '4826'. Can you or anyone on the list describe this and other atemoya cultivars? re: Book - Custard Apples (Cherimoya): Cultivation & Crop Protection Sanewski, G.; 1991, 103 Pages, Softcover It is available in the US from Fertile Ground Books P.O. Box 2008 Davis, CA 95617-2008 Tel: (800) 540-0170, (530) 297-7879 Fax: (530) 298-2060 http://www.agribooks.com/cgi-bin/webc.cgi/~fg/st_prod.html?p_prodid=QDP082&sid=13iaN0d or email books@agribooks.com Availibility: Special Order, normally ships in 2-4 weeks. Item#: QDP082, Price: $39.95 or from Australia at Granny Smith Bookshop http://www.aoi.com.au/granny/GFI.htm 520C * CUSTARD APPLES: Cultivation and crop protection. Sanewski (Qld,1991). 103p. Pb. Throrough, well-produced practical book on Annona fruits. Recommended. A$42.45 (=US$28.23) re: Question #3 I've seen the title Litchi Cultivation by Victor Galan Sauco in FAO's Plant Protection and Production series. Try their catalog at: http://www.fao.org/icatalog/inter-e.htm Thanks Leo and all for your contributions, Steph mailto:fruition@shaka.com Subject: Sugar Apple Seeds - Where To Buy? Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:06:47 -0700 From: "Julie Jones" I am looking for sugar apple seeds. Anyone growing them with ripe fruit to save seeds? or a nursery to ship seeds? Doug Jones mailto:dj243@lds.net Subject: Re: 4826 atemoya Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:34:08 EST From: Link2itc@aol.com To: fruition@shaka.com Hello Steph, I acquired my atemoya 4826 from Bob & Vivian Murray (tree1@strato.net) of Pine Island, FL (near Ft. Myers). They own a sizable tropical fruit nursery. I have had this plant only one year and last fall it gave me 7 large atemoyas, each weighing about 3/4 lb. This is very impressive considering the plant is but 5 feet tall and the main trunk is 3/4 inch in diameter! Compared to my Gefner and Priestley and sweetsop (sugar apple), the 4826 is vastly superior. When fully ripe, The external appearance is only minimally bumpy at the shoulders and smooth in the middle and apex. The color is yellowish green with a hue of pink surrounding each "segment." When the fruit is extremely ripe, it will fall off and still stay as a whole fruit, whereas a sweetsop will disintegrate upon hitting the ground. I harvested my first fruit when I thought for sure it had attained full size. It ripened nicely at room temperature in 3 days. To my surprise, the remaining atemoyas which I thought had also attained full size, got even bigger over the next 3 to 4 weeks. I harvested them when there is a slight hint of softness to finger pressure. Upon opening, the fruit is fragrant with numerous sections of pinkish white, succulent and juicy flesh, many without seeds. Each fruit has but 15-30 seeds, no bigger than the sugar apple seeds, but the pulp to seed ratio is very high. The flavor is very sweet with a definite hint of raspberry. The tiny amount of tartness makes this atemoya refreshingly different in taste. The texture is smooth without the grittiness that you find just under the peel of the sweetsop or the hint of rubberiness of the Gefner. The 4826 appears to be very prolific and productive -- most blossoms resulted in fruits and I lost only one or two to abscission. I plan to graft the 4826 over my unproductive Priestly atemoya. Regarding your cleft graft, it certainly seems suitable when the graft is in the vertical axis. However, I wish to graft my 4826 to horizontal branches of my Priestly atemoya. would that still be satisfactory? I have read the atemoya book by Sanewski and highly recommend it. It has multiple chapters specially for the commercial grower. Steph, thanks for your reply and your helpful sources for getting the above book as well as FAO-WHO books; and thanks too, to Leo for a great newsletter. Ed mailto:Link2itc@aol.com Subject: Banana pups Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:33:26 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: Richard Richard... After you have a nice clump formed with about three or four stems in various heights (your future crops for consecutive fruit production), then you may start to remove pups when they attain the 'sword' or arrow-shaped leaves. Removing pups before a nice, matted clump is achieved submits them to toppling in high winds. A spade with a flat blade works best as you have to separate the pup closely attached to the mother plant. But first dig around the outer edges of the pup. Sometimes the pseudo-bulb is quite deep so take precaution to obtain some roots. You may remove all but the healthiest leaf and then pot it up in a planting mix that has some nutrients in it. Bananas like Sul-Po-Mag as a fertilizer (sulfur, potassium, magnesium). Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Subject: Mangoes - Blooming Out Of Season Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 12:51:23 -0800 From: Buckner, Geoff Leo, In response to your mangos, mine are confused as well. Both the Pim Sen Mun and Valencia Pride are in full bloom and the Okrung is flushing out new growth. I have not fertilized since July. I hope it stays warm... Geoff Buckner mailto:gbuckner@brwncald.com Subject: dragon fruit Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:50:55 -0800 From: W.N. Veer Hi Leo, First of all let me tell you how I enjoy receiving your newsletter everytime, it is really a unique way of meeting lots of fruit friends. Then I will try to insert a picture of my red etlingera flowering. Everytime I read:" gingers - nothing this time". So now at least a picture. And then the reason of my writing. I got very interested in the "dragon fruit" or pitaya, espec. after reading the article on edible cacti you recommended, from Yozef Mizrahi a.o. Do you, or is there anybody who knows a place where to order some cuttings? As you know I grow rambutans, and so have some male trees who could be made more useful by serving as a base for these tree cacti. Greetings Wim Veer paramaribo, suriname mailto:veerwn@sr.net Subject: picture-red etlingera flowering See OldRFN Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 20:57:19 -0800 From: "W.N. Veer" Subject: Re: Atemoya Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 17:33:04 -0800 From: Doron Kletter To: Edward Hello Edward, You said: > It is generally acknowledged that the strongest branches that will > support a heavy fruit crop are those that are horizontally branched > from the main trunk. I would like to graft several high yield > atemoya 4826 branches onto the branches (not trunk) of a low yield > atemoya Bradley tree. What type (whip graft, cleft graft, best > angle of cut, etc.) of graft will result in the strongest union? I had good success with either Cleft or Whip & Tongue grafts. You might want to graft low onto the mainframe branches. Best time to graft is in late spring (in California) around April / May just prior to the main leaf flush. Things may be different in Florida, though. > I am looking for a book titled: Custard Apples - Cultivation and > Crop Protection by Garth Sanewski of the Queensland Dept of Primary > Industries (Australia) > > Does anyone know where I can order this book? I got my copy from Fertile Ground Bookstore at UC Davis. Here is their address: Fertile Ground Books || P.O. Box 2008 || Davis, CA 95617-2008 Tel: (800) 540-0170 or (530) 297-7879 || Fax: (530) 298-2060 They say: Item#: QDP082, Price: $39.95; Availibility: Special Order: Normally ships in 2-4 weeks. P.S. I like this book. > Does anyone know of one or more sources/web sites where lots of (or > uncommon) books on fruit cultivation are sold? The UC Davis site above is excellent for agriculture material. Let me know if you have additional questions, Best regards, Doron Kletter mailto:kletter@impact.xerox.com San Mateo, CA (near San Francisco) Subject: Lemon Tree Not So Pretty! From: SabanInc@aol.com Date: Thu, Jan 20, 2000, 11:53 PM I am hoping you might be able to help. I purchased my mother a small lemon tree a couple of years ago. She has it in a large pot and has been keeping it in her garage during the cold weather. The plant was doing really well then all of a sudden the leaves turned yellow and almost all of them have fallen off. Could you possibly tell us what she has done wrong and what we can do to rectify the problem. She is very attached to this little tree and I have been unable to find anyone at the local nurseries that I have called who know what to do with it. We would appreciate your help. I see you specialize in grapes but was hoping you could help. We also live in Oregon and with the recent cold and snow that is why it was brought in. Thank you for any advice you can give us. Sassy In Milwaukie mailto:Sabaninc@aol.com Subject: Comprehensive reference books on tropical fruits Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:52:35 EST From: Link2itc@aol.com To: kletter@impact.xerox.com Hello Doron, Thank you for your helpful reply on atemoya grafts and book sources. I also find the book, Custard Apples - Cultivation and Crop Protection by Garth Sanewski of the Queensland Dept of Primary Industries (Australia), to be an excellent treatise on the subject. I am looking to add more reference books to my library and would like to buy one or more comprehensive up-to-date "bibles" on tropical fruits. Many may consider Julia Morton's book on Fruits of Warm Climates to fit in that category in that it was clearly an exhaustive and authoritative book when it was published in 1987. However, my problem with it is that it has no info on many of the new and better cultivars introduced since the late 80's. I wonder if you or other members have any comments about the following books which I came across on the Internet: >From Amazon.com: Tropical and Subtropical Fruits (Agriculture and Food Science) by Philip E. Shaw (Editor), Harvey T. Chan (Editor), Steven Nagy (Editor) Price: $89.00 Hardcover (February 1998) Agscience; ISBN: 0963139762 Availability: This title is currently on back order. Fruits of Tropical and Subtropical Origin : Composition, Properties, Uses by Steven Nagy (Editor), Philip E. Shaw (Editor), wi Wardowski Price: $70.00 Hardcover (October 1998) Agscience; ISBN: 0944961002 Availability: This title usually ships within 4-6 weeks. Fruit Breeding : Tree and Tropical Fruits by Jules Janick (Editor), James N. Moore (Editor) Price: $140.00 Availability: Usually ships within 24 hours. Paperback - 632 pages Vol 1 (April 1996) John Wiley & Sons; ISBN: 047131014X ; Dimensions (in inches): 1.37 x 9.54 x 6.41 Other Editions: Hardcover >From Barnes&Noble.com Tropical Fruits by Henry Y. Nakasone Robert E. Paull bn.com Price: $55.00 In-Stock: Ships within 24 hours Format: Paperback, 445pp. ISBN: 0851992544 Publisher: CAB International Pub. Date: May 1998 Comments about the book, its breadth and depth of coverage, illustrations, etc., would be greatly appreciated. Ed mailto:Link2itc@aol.com Subject: Frost protection (using Christmas lights) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:52:46 EST From: Ed Hello Leo, I would like to direct two questions to our general membership about frost protection. I recently moved to the Gulf coast of FL where the temperature dips close to freezing a few times each winter, and once every few years, a hard frost actually occurs. I have read about various frost protection methods including the use of plastic sheets and heating lamps and light bulbs. Question 1: Under what circumstance (when allowed to contact the plant?) and by what exact mechanism does plastic sheeting cause their damage to plants? Questions 2: I have an idea to use Christmas lights to provide frost protection and wonder if anyone has ever used the tiny (or even the larger quail-egg-sized) Christmas lights strung across their trees as a form of frost protection? In theory, such a setup, especially used in conjunction with a bed-sheet draped on top, would provide gentle diffuse warmth. But how well does it work in reality? Has anyone's plant suffered heat-burn from using heating lamps or larger bulbs? Any feedback would be appreciated. Ed mailto:Link2itc@aol.com Subject: Re: Frost protection (using Christmas lights) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 09:35:20 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Ed Hi Ed, I will post your question in the next issue. Something that occured to me was to string the soil heating cable around in a tree, or just rely on rising heat and arrange it near the ground, and put a bedsheet or curtain around the tree. I've never tried it, but it might help. Also, putting plastic or glass containers of water around the base of a tree would collect some heat during most days and radiate it at night. I haven't had a need to be concerned for a dozen years or more, so haven't done anything to warm the air around my trees. However, where I lived in San Diego before, we'd get some high 20's occasionally, and I bought several dozen feet of the heavy stucco wire, cut it in lengths to encircle my young trees, attached redwood lath strips to both sides of each end, covered one side with heavy plastic sheet with the plastic flush on one length of the wire but hanging beyond the other length about two feet, so that when the plastic covered wire encircled the tree, the overhang could cover the top of the tree at night. I wired the ends together at the lath, so that I could take them off, flatten them out, and store them during warmer days. I put gallon plastic jugs of water at the bottom of each of these and it all seemed to help. A tent of cloth, old blanket, furniture blankets used in moving (I once found a bunch of those discarded) over the top would hold heat in even better than the plastic. Let's find out what the more active readers suggest. Yours, Leo Subject: This 'n That Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:36:37 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Holzinger, Bob Hi Bob, Talk about an early spring! Almost every one of mango trees is blooming or about to bloom. Most unusual! Did you see any of the lunar eclipse last night? I looked briefly about 8:30 p.m. Very pretty, with a warm orange glow. Until later, Leo Subject: Re: This 'n That Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 14:01:28 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Leo Leo, I missed the eclipse because we were totally fogged in last night--couldn't see any lights down below either. Oh well, I'll catch the next one maybe. Actually I think this is when the mangos flower normally in Florida to get ripe fruit in April and May. Our problem is the relatively low temps and the rain we usually get at this time, it makes fruit set very problematic. Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Re: Frost protection (using Christmas lights) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 20:23:35 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Ed A soil heating cable appears to be a wire that gets warm, when plugged in, but has a thermostat that keeps it from exceeding some preset temperature. I've use them in hotbeds, to provide bottom heat for sprouting seeds, etc. I'm not sure it would be suitable for your needs. Leo Link2itc@aol.com wrote: > > Hi Leo, > > Thanks for your reply. What is a soil heating cable? > > Have never heard of it. > > Ed Subject: Re: Applying Mycorrhizal fungus to Bananas Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 01:31:05 -0800 From: Darryl Hello Leo: The answer to your questions is yes (:-). There is no easy way to tell what you are buying from a "microbe" salesman (except tests that would cost far more than the product!). The only thing a small purchaser can do is check the reputation of the supplier. Unfortunately, with a new product (or or more correctly, new "productization") such as this, there often little track record to go on. This creates a lot of opportunity for "snake oil salesman" types. I decided to deal with Don Chapman, after several months of cross communication, several successful trials, (performed personally) using his product, and a bit of feedback from other customers who participated in an organic growers newsgroup. I have also contacted some of the researchers he has cited in his marketing literature. While these persons were not asked to confirm his product claims, I was at least able to establish that he quoted genuine researchers and experts in this field. While there are surely other very good companies selling this product, I don't have time to go through the same verification process repeatedly. My focus is: How can a small organic farmer use this and other smart methods to produce yields superior to those from conventional methods , without dramatically increasing overhead. Don's experience selling his product to large vineyards on the west coast is very valuable in this regard. This is one of the biggest problems I face over on the east coast. When comparing products, please give attention to the variety of species included in the mix. Different mycorrhiza interact with varied levels of interest to different plants. It is probably better to take a "shotgun" approach if you don't have specific knowledge of a species that is attracted to the type of plant you wish to innoculate. This would involve using a Mycorrhiza "cocktail" type product with at least 7 types of spores included. Also, these organisms work better under some conditions than others. Soil chemistry, climate, other microorganism populations/ interactions, freshness of product, etc can all play a role. In some trials I have initiated (much to my embarrasment) there have been clearly negative effects. This result requires a lot of investigation to determine whether it was the mycorrhiza or one of hundreds other factors that caused the setback. Anyone that promises you quick or guarranteed results is probably stretching the truth. The lack of abundant black-or-white answers has been an impediment to the wide scale acceptance of this type product. But, the more people using it, the larger the experience base to draw from. Re: The liquid product you mentioned. Liquid and Gel formulas are popular as root dips in the nursery trade. Dormant Mycorhizza are not activated by moisture, so this is a viable way of packaging product for easy use on a plant by plant basis. Once again, check for guaranteed spore count in minimum spores per unit of weight or volume, in order to compare products between vendors. Unfortunately, I haven't kept up with the density specs of the Bio-Organics products, to help you make a cross vendor comparison. I have not yet reached the point of offering product for sale, as I am still getting feedback from farmers trialing in this area. I know that we offer it in dry, gel, and a powder that is fine enough to be watered in from above ground. I hope some of this helps! Best Regards, Darryl Clark mailto:autores@cliknet.com Leo Manuel wrote: > > Hi Darryl, > > Is there much difference in the quality of the Mycorrhizal products? > > Is the price pretty constant, except for shipping charges? > > I believe I saw a liquid product someplace, months ago. > > Thanks! > > Leo Subject: Re: FWD: dragon fruit Question Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 07:20:38 -0800 From: Sven Merten Hi Wimwim, I have been collecting pitaya cuttings for a little while now. I have a small number of Hylocereus undatus seed that I would be happy to trade for other fruit seed if you are interested. Sending you cuttings is more involved because they have to be inspected first and you may still have problems once they get there. Rainbow Gardens sells several Hylocereus species, but for foreign orders there is a minimum $100 order and an extra $50 for getting the plants inspected before they send them. www.cactus-mall.com/rainbow_gardens. The other problem is that they are selling them for the flowers, so I have no idea if the fruit is any good. Best regards, Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: mangos Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 16:59:43 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: Bob Bob.. My experience with Kent mango is surely different than yours. It bloomed incessantly and, of course, can bloom itself to death. The only way to stop the blooming was to let it set a few pea-sized blooms and then cut off the panicle. Since the tree was small, I didn't want it to set fruit until older. Others have had this experince with Kent in California. It and Tommy Atkins only grow to be a bush in our climate. So far, my best mangos are Thomson, Glenn, Nam dac mai, Pina and Carrie. My seedling Manila is a huge tree but a shy producer and not as tasty as the others. I am grafting it over to other varieties. Would like Okrung and Orr. But this was the worst year ever for mangos because of our long cool summer. And, consequently not a good year to judge them. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Subject: Persimmon Pollination - Maybe Desirable Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 16:16:14 -0500 (EST) From: happytobehere@webtv.net (Doug Hyers) See: Cross Timbers Horticulture at http://www-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/steph/stephn6.html Leo, thank you for getting back to me. I would like you to glance at this page I'm sending. Please check under the paragraph fruit and notice the % of fruit reaching maturity. Yes I will expect seed in the fruit and haved observed the best trees in this area do contain seeds but the fruit is superior to that I've sampled from a dozen or so different sources. In speaking with several of the horticultural people around the University of Florida, (I work in the daylily field) and we often trade notes) that if a persimmon is not pollinated it may go more towards vegetative growth and neglect holding fruit. this may account for for the high rate of fruit drop problems here. One year I was told a young tree will drop fruit, next year it was suggested too much nitrogen (but I used 8-12-16),third year maybe it was that off year. I'm trying to cover all bases in trying to get these trees to hold fruit. That way I'll know. I don't want to let another planting season pass. I really appreciate the posts here and have read every one since signing on about a year ago. Was I supposed to e-mail a draft of my post before posting? That was a concern, along with was this a rare enough issue. I also am interested in research about the loquat. Thanks much. Doug Hyers mailto:happytobehere@webtv.net Gainesville, Fl Subject: Re: Rare Fruit News Online - January 15, 2000 - 3 Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 13:10:21 -1000 (HST) From: FruitLovers@webtv.net (Oscar Jaitt) Leo, the link you provided in the last RFNO for botanical gardens of the world does not work. Oscar Jaitt mailto:FruitLovers@webtv.net [Note: Oscar's right, but it was working at that time, and may come back to life. Leo] Subject: Re: Pawpaw trees surviving and fruiting in warm climates? Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 15:19:41 -0800 From: Pat Holland To:Doug Jones Hi Doug! I'm sorry to hear that your paw paw didn't make it. I have a seedling of a paw paw from Oregon Exotics. I bought it at California Rare Friut Growers yearly conference, The Festival of Fruit, last year. If it fruits I'll let you know. Maybe you in Phoenix and I in San Diego have too much heat for Asimina trilobata to fruit. But then, I heard somewhere that someone in CRFG in the Los Angeles area got one to fruit... Patricia M Holland mailto:pat.holland@juno.com On Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:51:53 -0700 "Doug Jones" writes: > I have tried pawpaw in Phoenix Az area and have not been successful - > too hot? If you do find a low-chill variety please let me know. The > ones I ordered were from Sherwood Greenhouse or Lousiana Greenhouse, > or something like that. Good luck, Doug ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: Cross Timbers Horticulture Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 13:22:54 -0800 Recommended by Doug Hyers http://www-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/steph/stephn6.html Short quote from webpage: FRUIT Most of our stone fruit trees will not be losing leaves yet, but when they do, that is the time to spray for spring diseases like leaf curl, Coryneum blight, and bacterial canker. Time the sprays. Use copper sprays (Kocide, Champion, etc.). Not all are labeled for all stone fruit crops, so check label before purchasing. At this time of year, we always get calls about persimmon fruit falling off the trees. Most persimmon varieties have the ability to set parthenocarpic fruit. (That means without pollination.) However, these fruit have a tendency to fall off with a little bit of stress. The April, 1996 issue of HortScience contains an article from some work done in north Florida. The researchers studied two varieties: 'Fuyu' and 'Tanenashi', both of which are on our recommended list. Flowers were pollinated by one of three varieties (Gailey, Nishimura Wase, or Turkeytown), open-pollinated, or not pollinated. Fruit set was higher with any of the pollination treatments than without pollination. Pollinated fruit developed faster and were usually larger. In 2 different years, only 2.8 and 26% of the non-pollinated fruit on Fuyu reached maturity. Older trees tend to set more parthenocarpic fruit than younger ones. For commercial growers who want to set a crop every year, the authors recommend pollination for Fuyu, which has a tendency towards alternate bearing, and for Tanenashi. "Translations" Web Page To Translate Between Several Languages http://babelfish.altavista.digital.com/cgi-bin/translate? From: Leo Manuel See sample in translation of letter from Julio San Roman, below, when I copied his letter onto the "Translations" web page. The translation wasn't complete, but it helped. Do you know of any other web pages that do this? Leo ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 19:36:29 -0700 (MST) From: Nikolai@powersurfr.com - [nafex] Digest Number 228 Subject: Shredded Office Paper - An interesting and effective mulch idea I've been experimenting with different mulches in my zone 3/2 orchard of about 200 apple trees. I've used clear cultivation, plastic "infa red transmission" mulches, rotted straw over newspaper, fabric mulches, and wood chips. The main reason for mulches is to conserve moisture as my area gets almost, but not quite enough rainfall to grow apple trees. Edmonton gets 18 inches of precipitation per year, with a June and July maximum. The mulches certainly keep the moisture in, but the plastic mulches absolutely need drip irrigation under the plastic or your tree will die or suffer badly from drought stress. The other reasons for mulches are to keep down the weeds and increase the health of the soil (rotted straw mulches only, possibly wood chips). I recently spoke with Dr. Gene Hogue of the Agriculture Canada Research Station in Summerland, BC. Dr. Hogue has done extensive studying and experimenting with regards to the effect of different kinds of mulches on apple trees in the Okanagan area of BC. The best mulch material according to his experiments is (get ready) ordinary shredded office papers from an ordinary office paper shredder! The office shredders produce long strips of paper that inter-twine when put on the ground and don't blow away. Apparently all inks now used are organic in nature and not at all toxic. You simply put 6 or so inches of this shredded paper around the tree, and wet it down. It forms a sort of crust on the surface and will not blow away. You may have to refresh the mulch every few couple of years or so. Water easily passes through this mulch and the moisture levels are very good. According to Dr. Hogue, tests have shown a very significant increase in earthworms and beneficial microbes after using this type of mulch in the soil around the trees. Cross sectional trunk diameter of fruit trees is up to 35% greater after using this "shredder mulch" vs. unmulched control trees, with about 15% more fruit per tree and increased health and vigor of the trees. The mulch also prevents the top inch or two of soil from "frying" during periods of hot (over 90 F) weather. Without the mulch, temperatures of over 100 F are common in the top few inches of soil. Apparently bags of shredded office paper are easy to obtain at your local "recycling shop" very inexpensively. Dr. Hogue is currently writing a scientific paper on his mulch experiments which will be available in a few months by contacting the Summerland Research Station. I'll certainly be giving "office shredder" mulch a try this spring at my orchard. Bernie Nikolai Edmonton, Alberta mailto:Nikolai@powersurfr.com -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- Subject: RE: sapote Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 09:56:24 -0500 From: "Anna Whipkey" We have Chikoo(zapote) farms which have been infested by a fruit-borer identified as TRYMALITIS-MARGERIAS. Could you please send me some information about its lifecycle and any advice on its control. THANK YOU IN ANTICIPATION OF REPLY "Farzan" NewCrop Archives are available at: http://bluestem.hort.purdue.edu/newcroplistserv/Search.html --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Subject: Re: Pepino Dulce Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 07:45:44 -0800 From: scoutdog@pacbell.net Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Dear Cigdem, Pepino dulce is a small bush or shrub that will grow more like a ground cover if allowed. They are very easy to propagate by stem cuttings. Branches will root if they come into contact with soil for any length of time. They grow quickly, like a lot of water and do well even in partial sun, although full sun is probably best. The main problem with them here (southern California, US) is that they get infested with spider mites, but these can be controlled with insecticidal soap. They bloom readily, but fruit set is low compared to the number of blooms. This doesn't seem to be helped by hand pollination. If you have any specific questions I would be happy to try to answer them. Also, I have a small number of fresh seed that I could trade for other fruit seed if you are interested. I hope this helped. Best regards, Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: Re: Pepino Dulce Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:53:13 -0800 From: Richard Himbarger Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Pepino Dulce Solanum muricatum Ait. Solanaceae Common Names: Pepino Dulce, Pepino, Melon Pear, Melon Shrub, Pear Mellon Related Species: Wonderberry (Solanum X burbanikii), Tzimbalo (S. caripense), Lulita (S. pectinatum), Lulo comun (S. pseudolulo), Naranjilla (S. quitoense), Garden Huckleberry (S. scabrum), Cocona (S. sessiliflorum), Distant Affinity: Tree Tomato, Tamarillo (Cyphomandra betacea), Casana (Cyphomandra casana), Tomato (Lycopersicon lycopsersicum), Mexican Husk Tomato, Tomatillo (Physalis ixocarpa), Cape Gooseberry, Poha Berry (Physalis peruviana) and others. Origin: The pepino dulce is native to the temperate Andean regions of Colombia, Peru and Chile. The plant is not known in the wild, and the details of it origin are not known. The fruit is grown commercially in New Zealand, Chile and Western Australia. The pepino dulce was being grown in San Diego before 1889 and was listed by Francisco Franceschi of Santa Barbara in 1897. Improved cultivars were imported into California from New Zealand and elsewhere in more recent times. Adaptation: The pepino dulce is a fairly hardy plant that grows at altitudes ranging from near sea level to 10,000 ft. in its native regions. However it does best in a warm, relatively frost-free climate. The plant will survive a low temperature of 27 to 28¡ F if the freeze is not prolonged, but may loose many of its leaves. It can be grown in many parts of central and southern California, although it does best in locations away from the coast and is not well suited for hot, interior gardens. Pepino dulce has been grown and has fruited in the milder areas of northern California (Sunset Climate Zones 16 and 17). The plant is small enough to be grown satisfactorily in a container. DESCRIPTION Growth Habit: Pepino dulce is a small, unarmed, herbaceous plant or bush with a woody base and fibrous roots. Growth is erect or ascending to about 3 feet high and several feet across. It is similar in these respects to a small tomato vine, and like the tomato may need staking or other support. Foliage: The bright green leaves are sparsely covered with very small hairs. In appearance the pepino dulce is much like a potato plant, but the leaves may take many forms--simple and entire, lobed, or divided into leaflets. Flowers: The small flowers are blue, violet-purple or white marked with purple, and are similar in form to unopened potato flowers. The pepino dulce is deemed to be parthenocarpic but a much heavier crop results from self-pollination or cross-pollination. The plants will not set fruit until the night temperatures are above 65¡ F. Fruit: The fruit also show considerable diversity in size and shape. In the areas of its origin there are small oblong types with many seeds, while others are pear or heart-shaped with few or many seeds. Still others are round, slightly larger than a baseball and completely seedless. The colors also vary--completely purple, solid green or green with purple stripes, or cream colored with or without purple stripes. The fruit of cultivars grown in this country are usually round to egg-shaped, about 2 to 4 inches long, with some growing up to 6 inches. The skin is typically yellow or purplish green, often with numerous darker streaks or stripes. The flesh is greenish to white and yellowish-orange. Better quality fruit is moderately sweet, refreshing and juicy with a taste and aroma similar to a combination of cantaloupe and honeydew melon. In poor varieties there can be an unpleasant "soapy" aftertaste. The fruit matures 30 to 80 days after pollination. CULTURE Location: The plant likes a sunny or semi-shaded, frost-free location, sheltered from strong winds. It does well planted next to a south-facing wall or in a patio. Soil: The pepino dulce does best in a fertile (but not too fertile), free draining, neutral soil ( pH of 6.5-7.5). It is not as tolerant of salinity as the tomato. Mulching will help suppress weed growth. Irrigation: The pepino dulce is quite sensitive to moisture stress as their root systems spread out and are quite shallow. Irrigation techniques are thus crucial for the health of the plants as well as for pollination, fruit set and quality of the fruit crop. Some growers feel that overhead sprinkling may even favor increased pollination. Microjets appear to deliver moisture better than trickle irrigation. Fertilization: The plants should be fertilized in a manner similar to a tomato plant, mixing in some well-rotted manure to the plant site several weeks in advance and supplementing with a 5-10-10 NPK granular fertilizer as needed. Soils that are too rich produce vigorous vegetative growth which can lead to reduced fruit set and quality, plus an increase in pest problems. Pruning: Pruning of the pepino dulce is not needed unless the plant is being trained to a trellis. In this case treat it as one would a tomato vine. Opening the the fruits to light increases the purple striping and improves the general appearance. Frost Protection: In areas where frost may be a problem, providing the plant with some overhead protection or planting them next to a wall or a building may be sufficient protection. Individual plants are small enough to be fairly easily covered during cold snaps by placing plastic sheeting, etc. over a frame around them. Plastic row covers will also provide some frost protection for larger plantings. Potted specimens can be moved to a frost-secure area. Propagation: The pepino dulce can be grown from seeds, but is usually propagated vegetatively from cuttings. Three to five inch stem cuttings are taken leaving 4 or 5 leaves at the upper end. Treatment with rooting hormones will help increase uniformity in rooting and development of heavier root systems. The cuttings are then placed in a fast-draining medium and placed under mist or otherwise protected from excessive water loss. Bottom heat also is helpful. With the right conditions most of the cuttings quickly root and are ready for potting up in individual containers. Rooted cuttings set out after the danger of frost (February to April) should be large enough to start blooming shortly after planting. The fruit will then have time to grow and ripen during the warm summer months. When planted out, a spacing of about 2 to 3 ft. between bushes is recommended. Pests and Diseases: The plant is affected by many of the diseases and pests that afflict tomatoes and other solanaceous plants, including bacterial spot, anthracnose, and blights caused by Alternaria spp. and Phytophthora spp. The various pests include spider mite, cut worm, hornworm, leaf miner, flea beetle, Colorado potato beetle and others. Fruit fly is a serious pest where they are a problem. Greenhouse grown plants are particularly prone to attack by spider mites, white flies and aphids Harvest: Individual fruits should not be picked until they are completely mature to assure the highest flavor and sugar content. Different cultivars vary, but the ground color of many mature fruits is somewhat yellow to light orange. Ripe fruit also bruises easily and requires careful handling. Such fruit should store well for 3 to 4 weeks at around 38¡ F under relatively high humidity. Fruit destined for distant markets would need to be picked earlier just before full ripeness. As it turns out this happens to be a good time to pick the fruit. Studies have shown that fruit in the middle degree of ripeness has the best performance in cold storage. Over-ripe fruit suffers most from physiological problems such as internal breakdown, discoloration and dehydration. If harvested too early, insufficient ripening and development of flavor and sweetness can result. The pepino dulce is commonly chilled and eaten fresh much like a cantaloupe or other melon. Commercial Potential: The pepino dulce is a successful commercial crop in several countries such as New Zealand and Chile, and there appears to be no reason it can't find a niche in this country in Farmer's Market sales and elsewhere. The fruit is strikingly attractive and its storage capability and shelf life permit great flexibility in marketing. For good market acceptance it is important to select cultivars with the sweetest and most flavorful fruit. Additional breeding and selection is also needed to further enhance these qualities. CULTIVARS Colossal - Very large fruit, mostly cream-colored with light markings of purple. Very juicy and sweet, free of soapiness, of good melon-like flavor, especially when vine ripened. Self-fertile, but yields larger fruit when cross-pollinated. Ecuadorian Gold A market cultivar in South America that produces good crops of pear-like fruits over a long growing season. The fruit has an attractive color, is well-marked and holds well on the plant. Self-fertile, but should be thinned for better fruit size. El Camino - Released in New Zealand in 1982 from material collected in Chile. Medium to large, egg-shaped fruit with regular purple stripes. Sometimes produces off-flavored fruits identifiable by their brownish-green color. One of two leading commercial cultivars in New Zealand. Miski Prolific - Originated in San Jose, Calif. by Nancy Garrison, as a seedling of the New Zealand cultivar Miski. Fruit creamy white with a faint salmon glow, lightly striped with purple. Flesh deep salmon. Flavor rich, sweet and aromatic, with no soapiness. Seeds few or none. Matures early. Strong growing plant, bears well without pollination. New Yorker - Introduced into California by Vincent Rizzo of New York state from material obtained in Chile. Medium to large, oval fruit, apex pointed. Skin smooth golden yellow when mature, prominently striped with deep purple. Flesh firm, juicy, yellow-orange. Flavor sweet, virtually free of soapiness. Seeds few. Keeps for several weeks. Upright growth habit. Sets fruit well without cross pollination. Rio Bamba - Originated in Vista, Calif by Patrick J. Worley. Named after the city in Ecuador where the original plant was collected. Medium-sized fruit, strongly striped with purple. Flavor excellent. Vining growth habit, making an excellent climber or a hanging basket plant. Dark-green leaves with reddish-purple veins, purple stems. Flowers darker than normal, making an excellent display. Temptation - Introduced by the Nurserymen's Association of Western Australia. Large, high quality fruit. Toma - Introduced into New Zealand from Chile in 1979, released there in 1983. Medium-sized, oval fruit, 4 inches long, 3 inches in diameter, apex pointed, shoulder well rounded. Skin smooth, cream-colored when ripe, prominently striped with dark purple. Flesh firm, light cream in color, very juicy. Flavor sweet and refreshing, with no hint of soapiness. Seeds usually present. Keeping quality excellent. An important export cultivar in Chile. Vista - Originated in Vista, Calif. by Patrick J. Worley. A cross of Rio Bamba and a seedling from South America. Medium-sized fruits have good flavor and aroma. Upright, fairly compact plant of great vigor, self-fertile and heavy yielding. Bright green, 3 inch long leaves. FURTHER READING Butterfield, Harry M. A History of Subtropical Fruits and Nuts in California. University of California, Agricultural Experiment Station. 1963. Facciola, Stephen. Cornucopia: a Source Book of Edible Plants. Kampong Publications, 1990. 435-436. Heiser, Charles B. Jr. The Fascinating World of the Nightshades. Dover Publications, 1987. Republication of 1969 edition. pp. 123-127. National Research Council. Lost Crops of the Incas. National Academy Press, 1989. Tankard, Glen. Tropical Fruit. Viking O'Neil, 1987. pp. 84-85. I hope this helps. Richard Himbarger mailto:himbarger@jps.net Subject: Pepino dulce Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 13:32:58 -0800 From: Roger Meyer Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Besides the message that Sven has sent, may I add the following comments about Pepino dulce. I have found they they fruit much more if their roots are resticted. Plant in 5 gallon pots (about 20 liters) and let them grow upon a small trellis within the pot. They must be watered often due to the pot restriction but they blossom and set lots of fruit this way. Plantts grow readily from seed or may be easily started from cuttings. Take some cuttings and snip off most of the leaves. Put one end in moist paper toweling and then put this end in a plastic bag. Within a week roots will have started. Hope this adds to you knowledge. Roger Meyer mailto:exoticfruit@95net.com Subject: Garcinia spicata Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:59:26 PST From: "W C" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Greetings all, I have come across Garcinia spicata at Fairchild Tropical Gardens and was curious if anyone has any experience with it or whether or not it produces an edible fruit. Warren C mailto:wpc728@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Pitaya fruit Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 18:04:38 -0800 From: "Dragon" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Julio San Roman Where you are? I just starting grow some pitaya tree in Southern part of China, it is Hylocereus Undatus & Selenicereus. Dragon mailto:pitaya@hongkong.com Subject: Neem Propagation and Giant Passionfruit Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:16:02 -0800 From: Oscar Jaitt Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Hi Bob, I would be interested in your technique for air layering neen. How is it different from other air layers? I do not know if I will be able to try it as ironacally something chews the heck out of the plants leaves here. I suspect rose beetles. Will try spraying them with neem oil. I later realized after telling you that the giant passionfruit is self pollinating here that there are wild populations of passiflora edulis, so probably some natural cross pollination is occuring. Thanks for the info. Oscar Jaitt mailto:fruitlovers@webtv.com Subject: Re: Neem Propagation and Giant Passionfruit Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 02:02:53 -0500 From: Bob Cannon Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Oscar, I'll see about posting the neem info, need to write it up. I too have P. edulis (about 50 ft from the giant passionfruit) and must have hand pollinated 50 flowers - none set fruit. Where I am I doubt there is another flowering giant passionfruit within 10 miles, most bees stay 3-5 miles from their nest. As we are having our first cold spell tonight I harvested the fruit (it had turned a yellowish green) but I still don't know how to eat it. Is it just like a P. edulis or is the flesh of the fruit edible like a melon? Best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:tfnews@gate.net http//www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Giant Passionfruit (Passiflora quadrangularis) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 13:32:06 -0800 From: Oscar Jaitt Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Hi Bob, The skin of the giant passionfruit is edible. It is cooked and eaten like a vegetable. I heard it tastes like zucchini, but have never tried it. The flesh inside I just scoop it out and drink it straight. It is not acidic like the p. edulis so no need to add tons of sweetener. If the fruit is somewhat sour that means you picked it too early. As for pollination, there may be other factors involved besides cross pollination, like temperature, humidity, and soil conditions. Does it flower profusely? Oscar Jaitt mailto:fruitlovers@webtv.com Subject: Re: Giant Passionfruit (Passiflora quadrangularis) Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 00:33:06 -0500 From: Bob Cannon Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com I get lots of flowers. It seems to have survived last nights 30 degree cold fairly well as I see almost no damage. When it is cool (50-60) the flowers do not open all the way. Best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:tfnews@gate.net http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject Re: Pitaya fruit Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 16:29:58 -0500 From: Julio San Roman Muchas gracias por su respuesta. Yo estoy en Peru, que se supone es el centro de origen de la pitahaya, sin embargo no conocemos el manejo del cultivo. Hace algunos a–os estoy probando de cultivar Hylocereus triangularis y tambien Hylocereus undatus. Tengo plantas de H. triangularis que encontre en esta zona y que producian regularmente en esta epoca del a–o flores y despues los frutos maduraban, actualmente mis plantas solo producen flores pero no logro la fecundacion, he hecho pruebas haciendolo a mano, aplicando Acido giberelico a 50 ppm, pero no he tenido exito. Ojala alguien pueda indicarme como lograrlo. A Gloria y Walter mis gracias por la traduccion Julio San Roman mailto:jsanr@infotex.com.pe As translated by the webpage, "Translations" http://babelfish.altavista.digital.com/cgi-bin/translate? In English: Thank you very much by its answer. I am in Peru, that assumes is the center of origin of pitahaya, nevertheless we do not know the handling the culture. For some years I have been proving to also cultivate Hylocereus triangularis and Hylocereus undatus. I have plants of H. triangularis that encontre in this zone and that regularly producian in this epoca of the year flowers and despues the fruits matured, at the moment my plants single produce flowers but nonprofit the fertilization, I have done tests doing it by hand, applying 50 giberelico Acido to ppm, but I have not had successful. I would hope that somebody can indicate to me like obtaining it. To Gloria and Walter my thanks for the translation Subject: Re: Pitaya fruit Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 18:39:38 AST From: john carrasquilloReply-To:rarefruit@egroups.com I grow a self fertile, Hylocerus sp. with excellent edible fruits. It is probably Hylocerus undatus, it is a very vigorous plant, it sets fruit without requiring pollination. I also grow H.guatemaltensis and a other clone of H.undatus which requires cross pollination to set fruits. Hylocerus undatus and Hylocerus guatemaltense have crimson fruits with translucent white pulp and many minute crunchy(kiwi like seeds) it is very delicious fruit, Hylocerus triangularis is native to Puerto Rico and it produce crimson fruits with bright blood red flesh and same minute seeds, same excellent flavour. The plant is armored with sharp spines which makes it less desirable for backyard growth. In the wild you seldom find a ripe fruit, Birds usually get to them first. The self fertile Hylocerus is an excellent producer, large fruit. Good balanced flavour sweet-sour , describe taste like kiwi-strawberry small spines. Blooms and produces small without taking over the whole place. The plant a collected several years ago in the wet subtropical forest at 3000 feet elevation at Jajome munincipality of cayey Puerto Rico. It was growing on an old Saman tree by the road John Carrasquillo mailto:mdcarrasquillo@hotmail.com -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Villain Insect Enlisted for Good Deeds (Pollinating Annona) Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 16:12:53 -0500 From: "ARS News Service" Ben Hardin mailto:bhardin@asrr.arsusda.gov January 19, 2000 ----------- Blossoms of sugar apple and atemoya have long attracted pollinating sap beetles. The problem is, neither these insects nor others seem to have worked hard enough at their pollination duties. To produce these unusual and tasty fruits for consumers, commercial orchardists resort to hand-pollination. A solution: Give the beetles a whiff of chemical attractants and yeasty-smelling bread dough. ARS scientists at the National Center for Agricultural Utilization Research, Peoria, Ill., first discovered and synthesized the attractants, called pheromones, that worked well in experiments to monitor and control sap beetles in crops where they are pests. Then, to coax sap beetles to better perform their "good guy" pollination role, University of Florida and ARS scientists loaded pheromones and bread dough into bait stations in flowering sugar apple and atemoya trees. Stymied by screens keeping them out of the stations, the beetles moved on to pollinate blossoms. Atemoya and sugar apple, tropical relatives of the Midwestern native paw paw, are noted for their delicate mango- and vanilla-like flavor and custard-like pulp. The fruits are often eaten from the "shell," cut into pieces for fruit cups or salads or blended and frozen with citrus juices. In the two-year study, pheromone bait stations increased by many times the number of flowers that began to develop and set fruit--a sign of improved pollination. However, stresses kept many of the extra fruits from developing fully. Now, improved growing practices that lessen failed fruit development are helping increase production. The sap beetles--Carpophilus or nitidulid species--that pollinate the trees also sometimes inflict serious damage on many of the world's other "minor" fruit crops. For example, in some years, nitidulids have caused $2.5 million in damage to the California fig crop alone. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. You can also get the latest ARS news on the World Wide Web at http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - February 1, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - February 15, 2000 - AKA RFN20002B.txt --Notes In Passing 1. I tried several alternative sites for archiving back issues of this newsletter. All of them seem to require that readers sign up with a password, in order to access the information. What about OldRFN? Does it require that you have a password in order to gain access? 2. The Web Sites section in this issue deals almost exclusively with plant propagation, and seems to be worthy of a glance, at least. The only web page not related to plant propagation is one devoted to banana recipies. ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, CA, From Ecuador, Will Try, Try, Again Ricardo Florez New Subscriber, Florida, See Tree Sale Info 5/21, in Palmetto Peter Ray New Subscriber, GA, Interested In Container Gardening of Rare Fruit Tiffaney Pete New Subscriber, India, Interested In Unexploited Fruit Dr. Chiranjit Parmar --Readers Write In Search Of Kapok Trees (Ceiba pentandra)-A Matter Of Honor! Richard Erickson Fwd By: Lon J. Rombough Re: What can I grow? Sven Merten To: Darcy Frost Protection Richard K. Gross To: Ed Mangoes - Blooming Out Of Season Matthew Shugart Ice cream bananas and disease Barry Moll P. quadrangularis Bob Holzinger To: Bob Pawpaw fruit Bob Holzinger" To:Pat Holland Sabor tree? Sabol? What is name of red-flowering tree? Nan Sterman Re: Sabor tree? Sabol? Dan McKean Pitaya seed W.N. Veer To: sven merten Mangos and more, Puerto Rico mountains Marsha Jackson To: Juan Jagua Juan A. Rivero To: Marsha Looking for low Chill Scion Wood Dan Hemenway --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Propagation Methods For Texas Fruits And Nuts (Temperate and Sub-Tropical) http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruitgarden/table2.html Methods of Propagation http://www.mrgrow.com/Tips/tip597.htm Grafting (and Budding) http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/grafting.html Side Veneer Grafting http://165.91.48.7/propagation/sidegrafting/sidegrafting.html Approach Grafting - Considerations and Technique http://165.91.48.7/propagation/approachgraft/approach.html Cleft Grafting - When Rootstock Larger Than Scion, or... http://165.91.48.7/propagation/cleftgrafting/cleftgrafting.html T-Budding (When Bark Is Slipping) or Shield Budding (When It Isn't) http://165.91.48.7/propagation/budding/budding.html Collecting and Storing Graftwood http://165.91.48.7/propagation/collect/collect.html The Four-Flap Graft - "...easy-to-do, successful...." http://165.91.48.7/propagation/fourflap/fourflap.html Texas Method - Inlay Bark Graft http://165.91.48.7/propagation/inlay/inlay.html 104 things to do with bananas-Banana recipe site Jane Rosenberg http://www.dmgi.com/recipes0.html --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List Paw Paw Pollination Doreen Howard Re: Paw Paw Pollination Lon J. Rombough" Grafting-Increasing Takes With "Rooting Powder" Nikolai --From NEWCROPS List --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Grafting breadfruit digby gotts" Re: grafting breadfruit Warren Re: grafting breadfruit Sven Merten Persimmon Retraction Doug Hyers Re: Persimmon Retraction Doug Hyers To: Sven Hazelnuts Eunice Messner Re: To those schooled in cocoa Bryan Brunner -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, CA, From Ecuador Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 16:29:48 PST From: "ricardo florez" Dear Mr. Manuel, I received your webpage thank you. I am interested in receiving the Rare Fruit News Online, so here is my information I am Ricardo Fl—rez San Diego, CA Unsuccessfully I tried to grow: Avocados, Tangerines, Passion Fruit, Apples, Bananas,... But since I believe that miracles do happen, with perseverance. I will try again. Fruits that I want to grow? Mango, Cherimoya, Guava, Oranges, Kiwi and Sapotes for now. Have a nice day. Ricardo Florez mailto:ricardoflorez@hotmail.com Leo's Note: Ricardo and Maggie invited my wife and me to brunch, and they had plantain banana in two different dishes. One was ripe, treated as a dessert, as I had eaten it before, but the other was unripe and used as a vegetable with other ingredients in a delicious soup. My plantain is starting to bloom, so I hope to try it. Subject: New Subscriber, Florida: See Tree Sale Info 5/21, in Palmetto Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 21:30:05 EST From: Peter Ray Hi there; please add me to your mailing list. I am Peter C. Ray, Parrish, Florida 34219 (near St. Petersburg) Fruit trees grown: lychee, mango, avocado, fig, persimmon, white sapote, black sapote, peach, plum, pecan, carambola, citrus, grape, papaya, caimito, passion fruit, sapodilla. Special interest: Grafting selected fruits on native rootstock (Japanese persimmon and black sapote on American persimmon; pecan on native hickory, etc. I am vice president of Manatee Rare Fruit Council, a chapter of Rare Fruit Council International, Inc. If you are not too distant, plan to come to our annual Tree Sale, May 21st at the Manatee Civic Center in Palmetto, FL. Peter Ray mailto:Pray0222@cs.com Subject: New Subscriber, GA, Interested In Container Gardening of Rare Fruit Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 13:29:38 -0500 From: Tiffaney Pete Hi, I am Tiffaney Pete, in Smyrna--outside of Atlanta, GA. Right now I am growing a pineapple plant. I hope to plant a papaya. Interested to know what kind of fruit can grow in containers/Georgia/indoors. Tiffaney Pete mailto:tiffaney@mindspring.com Subject:New Subscriber, India, Interested In Unexploited Fruit Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 17:20:04 +0530 From: Dr. Chiranjit Parmar I am Dr. Chiranjit Parmar, in Mandi, (Himachal Pradesh province - abbreviated as HP) India The fruit I am now growing: Lesser grown, unexploited wild growing fruits having a potential of being developed as a new fruit crop. I am a member of CRFG for the past several years. Here's my self-introduction: Dear Mr. Manuel, I am, senior horticultural scientist from India. I have been working on wild growing and lesser known , unexploited fruits having a potential for being developed as new commercial crops. My three dozen publications on this subject also include a book, WILD FRUITS OF THE SUB-HIMALSASN REGION. I am a member of CRFG and NAFEX for the past several years. I am also the NAFEX Consultant for Central Asia. Are you connected to the CRFG or its another organization. I hope that our relationship will grow. Best regards, Dr. Chiranjit Parmar mailto:parmarch@ch1.dot.net.in 186/3 Jail Road Mandi HP 175 001 INDIA -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: In Search Of Kapok Trees (Ceiba pentandra)-A Matter Of Honor! Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 13:43:49 -0800 From: Richard Erickson Fwd By: Lon J. Rombough Hi, I have just become a grandfather for the first time. I want to plant a very special tree in her honor. I am looking for the Kapok Tree, Ceiba pentandra. I'm in northern California. Can you help me find a couple? Thanks, Richard Erickson mailto:rgus@manznet.com [Note: Please write directly to Richard as soon as you learn of a source. Leo] Subject: Re: What can I grow? Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2000 08:16:02 -0800 From: scoutdog@pacbell.net To: Darcy Hi Darcy, The Cherimoya and Pawpaw will need to be hand pollinated and the Pawpaw will need cross pollination between two varieties or seedlings. The Kiwi you will need a male and female plant. For more information on the trees you might want to look at www.CRFG.org. You also might consider joining since these fruits are fairly popular and there are usually some articles every year about them. There is a list of nurseries at the CRFG site, some of which ship their plants. I believe there is a nursery called Oregon Exotics that probably has what you are looking for. They have a web site, so if you do a search you should find them. If not let me know. There are several nurseries that sell bananas, just do a web search and you should find several. Good luck. Regards, Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: Frost Protection Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 11:45:17 -0800 From: Richard K. Gross To: Ed Hi, Ed. The text below was used in a recent issue of the Arizona Cultivar of the California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc. newsletter. For whatever it is worth, I'll pass it on to you. Phoenix is a different part of the country but I don't believe that frost protection in the 29 to 34 degrees F range in Florida would differ much in technique from that needed in the low desert of Arizona. One variant might be irrigation. If soil drainage is better in your area, root rot might not be a problem and flooding basins could help. When my citrus trees were young, I always flooded them at any sign of freeze and it evidently worked. Most herbaceous plants; in my experience, best keep them on the dry side in cool weather. Regards, Dick Gross, Secretary, Arizona/California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc. FROST PROTECTION The Salt River Basin, the Phoenix area--roughly, experienced three episodes of mild frost in December of 1997. 1998 had an almost identical record. 1999 had no frost except for a few "outlying pockets". If you are an OP, ice may have formed on your birdbath. History warns us, however, that killing freezes are possible through March. The seasoned rare fruit grower assumes this "rare" disaster will hit again during the present year and plans accordingly for a worst case scenario. A course of action: Study every plant with a critical eye, determine what precisely needs be done to protect each and record the information in a spiral notebook. Make a list of essential materials. Buy the stuff and be ready to put your plan into action on very short notice. Do for trees and bushes the same thing you would do for yourself if you had to be outside on a cold night; don a warm hat and enough clothing to prevent your body heat from escaping into the atmosphere. Likewise, you must preserve the heat that has soaked into the soil and foliage during the day. The basic strategy for that is to cover all plants that you can reach with a material that can reflect the heat waves back into the mass you are covering; exactly the same mechanism takes place with a cloud cover. There are several types of frost cloth carried by plant nurseries. These, bed sheets, burlap and anything similar can just be placed over the plant to extend all the way to the ground. If the foliage and branches can1t support the weight, put in a stake or a couple of garden tools in the center to hold it up. Plastic covering is okay but it must not touch the foliage. The objective is to conserve the heat that is already there. An extended freeze may kill the foliage anyway, covered or not; a lightbulb under the cover could save it. If you can1t cover the plants, the second line of defense is to import heat from any source available. As a last resort, if you can get the hood of your car under a valued tree, start the engine when the temperature approaches 32 and let it idle until danger passes. But, use any heat source you can find. Electric heaters, Christmas tree lights, any light bulbs, flood lamps, heat and sun tan lights that you can lay or hang safely will help. When it freezes in the Salt River Basin, the air is always dry and electrical shorts generally not a concern. When using electricity, observe all safety precautions. During a freeze, the air is usually still except on slopes where the denser, heavier air seeks a lower level. A third main line of defense is to create air movement with the use of electric fans. Friction created from movement of air molecules generates heat. Direct the wash into the foliage. In most citrus growing areas, trees and crops are protected with large propellers usually powered with diesel fuel or aviation gasoline. Good oscillating industrial shop fans on a stand cost $40 to $80. There are other precautions that hardly need mentioning. Containerized plants can be dragged inside or parked under the dense foliage of another tree. Locate them beneath extended eaves, under a patio or ramada, adjacent to south facing concrete structures. Beware of cold air traps. Remove all mulch. Dry, hard ground and dry foliage--not saturated with water, that is, increase chances of survival according to some horticulturists. Mist systems and overhead, oscillating sprinklers can help but the mechanics need clarification and research. This grower1s only such experience resulted in four adult citrus trees and an area of about 4000 square feet covered with an inch of ice but, except for a couple of broken branches, not a leaf nor a piece of fruit suffered damage. The oscillator eventually seized but the water continued to flow. Most of us grow bananas and papayas having very tender leaves. More than one year old, most are too tall to cover. It1s not apt to get cold enough to damage root systems and I don1t waste time on them. The stems are easily protected with wrappings of blankets, jackets or old sweaters. You can also wrap the trunks with Christmas tree lights. Do anything you can except irrigate. Keep the root systems as dry as possible or rootrot will kill them. If evergreen plants are defoliated by frost, paint the trunks and main branches with white latex to protect against sunburn, even in the winter. Foliage will return when weather warms up. Finally, we need to investigate the new field of anti-transpiration sprays. Richard K. Gross mailto:rkg144@worldnet.att.net Subject: Mangoes - Blooming Out Of Season Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:13:53 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart RFNOers: One of my mangoes is blooming now, too. The Valencia Pride started blooming some time in December. It has kept having new blooms in January. While I had not previously seen it bloom in December, I cannot call its January blooms "out of season" as it does this every year. Right now it even has some fruit that is setting. The last two years I did not get fruit set until the tree bloomed again in late spring. One of the great things about this variety is its ability to bloom and re-bloom. Even under the adverse conditions of the last two springs (cool, wet), I've had fruit. One is hanging on the tree now and I harvested two huge and wonderfully tasty ones around Christmas. Last year I harvested one in February! My Nam Doc Mai has tried to bloom, but no buds have opened yet that I've noticed and some stalks that would have formed blooms have dried up and dropped off. Cheers, Matthew Shugart Carlsbad, California mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Subject: Ice cream bananas Date: Fri, 4 Jan 1980 21:55:40 -0500 From: Barry Moll Didn't I see something about a disease that is hitting the Ice Cream or Blue Java variety of bananas in Florida? What was it exactly? I have have a large stand of them growing for six years and have not had any problems until now. Two of the fruiting stalks have recently shriveled up before reaching half their maturity. Is this a virus which may effect the whole stand? I have four other bunches that are close to ripening which do not seem to have the problem. What should I do with the new trees growing around the effected trees? Could this also be a nutritional deficiency? Barry Moll mailto:mollb.lehighms.cameo@prodigy.net Subject: P. quadrangularis Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 13:18:53 -0800 From: Bob Holzinger To: Bob Hi Bob, I read the notes between you and Oscar Jaitt concerning P. quadrangularis. I think Oscar has P. edulis f. flavicarpa growing around him and this form of P. edulis may pollinate the P. quadrangularis. I use the pollen from P. edulis f. flavicarpa to pollinate a P. quadrangularis x P. alata hybrid with good success, so if you can find it growing around you, give it a try. Other species that could work on P. quadrangularis are P. alata, P. caerulea, P. caerulea 'Constance Eliott', and P. cincinnata. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Pawpaw fruit Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 13:24:01 -0800 From: Bob Holzinger To: Pat Holland Hi Patricia, Jim Neitzel once gave me a pawpaw fruit to taste, but I don't know where he got it. Either from his garden or from a friend. He lives in Southeast San Diego, which gets quite warm in the summer time, so I would say you just have to find the right micro-climate for your trees. My friend in Nipomo still gets fruit on his one tree, but was getting much more fruit when he had the second tree to cross pollinate. I have been told that the pawpaw trees need to get a couple years old growing in mostly shade before they can take mostly full sun. If possible I would plant it where the roots are always shaded. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Sabor tree? Sabol? What is name of red-flowering tree? Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 20:42:53 -0800 From: Nan Sterman My folks just returned from South America and my mother was taken by a red-flowered tree that she thinks is called "sabor" or "sabol." Anyone familiar with this tree and know its botanical name? Nan Sterman mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com San Diego County California Subject: Re: Sabor tree? Sabol? Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 22:46:53 -0800 From: Dan McKean To: Nan on 2/3/00 8:42 PM, Nan Sterman at nsterman@mindsovermatter.com wrote: > My folks just returned from South America and my mother was taken by a > red-flowered tree that she thinks is called "sabor" or "sabol." Anyone > familiar with this tree and know its botanical name? It's a ceibo tree--the national tree of Argentina. When I was in South America in November, it was in full bloom, a big 20m tall tree with a broad round crown covered in red flowers. A common English name would be coral tree. A picture of the tree can be seen at http://www.marmot.net/danm/adv/cl99/img/99-50-14.jpg. The ceibo trees are the two trees in the background. This picture is from November 14, 1999. The ceibo is planted widely in central Chile, such as in Santiago. I was surprised to see such an unknown tree planted in such a similar climate, especially as I recognized most of the other street and park trees such as jacaranda and liquidambar and the various sycamores (London planetrees). Of course, once I got back to California, I wondered why I hadn't seen the ceibo tree here. Turns out I had--the species name is Erythrina crista-galli, and it grows here mostly as a shrub or really small tree. I wonder why it doesn't get to towering tree height like it does in South America--anyone got any clues? One idea of mine about why the ceibo doesn't grow that large here is that trees don't grow as large in California as they do in Chile. In general, I found the same tree species growing in Chile to be much more narrow and tall than the same species growing in California. Notable trees in this regard were Pinus radiata (Monterey Pine), Maytenus boaria (mayten), and Schinus molle (pepper tree). You can see the very tall radiata pines in the back of the picture at the link above. The only real exception I to this taller-in-Chile rule was ironically a coast redwood (sequoia sempervirens) in a botanical garden in Valdivia. It was short and squat--but with massive limbs that made it more wide than tall! Dan McKean mailto:danm@marmot.net Subject: Pitaya seed Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 20:57:30 -0800 From: W.N. Veer To: Sven Merten Hi Sven, Thanks for your reaction. Yes, I should like to receive some pitaya seed (together with an instruction as I never even saw cactus seed). My postal address is below, nothing more (we are a small country). At the moment I have papaja (pawpaw) seed, a delicious long big red variety. Also red and yellow bixa (anato), and if the birds leave some for me a wild passiflora with beautifull blue flowers. So let me know what you want, and also send your postal address. greetings, Wim Veer mailto:veerwn@sr.net Paramaribo, Suriname Subject: Mangos and more, Puerto Rico mountains Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 21:09:22 EST From: Marsha Jackson To: Juan Juan, My husband John and I are also Rare Fruit News subscribers. We live in Maryland but own a house with 5 acres near Lago Dos Bocas. It was planted mostly with plantains but we'll have to see if they came back from the hurricane damage in 1998. Anyway, we'd like some advice about some plant varieties and where to look at and/or purchase good fruit trees in addition to Jardines Eneida. We're planning to go to the Univ. of PR at Mayaguez Agricultural Research and Botanical Gardens in the next few weeks. We have a mature mango tree that produces fruit with small pit, good color, good flavor and no stringiness. Our neighbors call it "pina mango." Any idea what variety that might be? We also have a few small trees including avocado, grapefruit, sweet orange, breadfruit, etc. Any advice about the best fruit for the mountain climate? My husband also wants to learn more about the "jagua" tree you mentioned in your Jan 8 letter to RFNO. (The mother of a friend from Las Carobas had such a tree that was lost in Hurricane Hugo.) Thanks for you help, Marsha Jackson mailto:MSJ1819@aol.com Subject: Jagua Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 00:26:47 -0400 From: Juan A. Rivero Dear Marsha: The best source for fruit trees is Jardines Eneida but you can get a few things at the Esperiment Station (substation) at Santa Isabel. A private collector, Sherry Ballester, Tel. 827-3121, Barrio Anones, Las Mar’as, have many small fruit trees for sale, but I doubt you can get much at the Federal Experiment Station as they are just beginning their collection. The best thing would be if you could come to one of the meetings of the Horticultural Soc. of the West. which are celebrated the first Sunday of every month. Next one will be in Maricao, in a very attractive setting and at elevation which, I suppose, is close to yours. The owner of Jardines Eneida is a member and also fruit expert Eugenio Toro (he can probably tell you abot the mang— pi–a). If you decide to come, please be our guests. My tel. number is 831-7419. Meetings start at 9.30 to 10.00am and they are conducted in Spanish but there are several continental members. The jagua is a large fruit, globular and similar to a sapote but it is not usually eaten fresh. It is cut into small pieces, placed in water in the refrigerator and after a couple of days the drink is consumed, sometimes adding a little sugar. It is said to have medicinal properties, but I don't go for it. My best wishes. Juan mailto:jarivero@caribe.net Subject: Looking for low Chill Scion Wood Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 10:53:29 EST From: Dan Hemenway Hi Leo: I wonder if you will run the following notice in your online newsletter. People should contact me directly as it is sometimes months before I have the chance to catch up on my various downloads. Many thanks, Dan Hemenway We have decided to work with native plants growing wild on our land in North Central Florida, using them as rootstocks. This will help avoid problems in establishment, and in adaptation to soil and rainfall patterns. We are looking for the following scionwood. Varieties that depend on frequent sprays are not useful to us as we will not do it. High yields are not crucial but we are interested in top flavor. Blueberry--Southern types, to graft on Farkleberry. We read about this in old CRFG publications and our first trials last spring worked quite well. We have quite a bit of Farkleberry. Avocado-- This would be for very experimental grafting on Persea bourbonia, which is a common understory shrub here. We can use only the most cold hardy Avocado varieties. Plum -- We have very many Chickasaw plums here and would like to graft many of them to low chill varieties of conventional plum. Our chill factor here probably ranges between 300 and 500 hours, depending on the year. We are also interested in any other Prunus spp. known to be graft-compatible with plum. Persimmon -- We have some American persimmon thickets and would like some kaki persimmon varieties for grafting. We are also quite interested in choice selections of American persimmon. Southern Pecan -- We are interested in a small amount of wood of southern pecan for experimental grafting to mockernut. Mockernut is quite vigorous here, and so we may not have the problem of overgrowth that has been reported to me on other pecan to hickory grafts. Paw Paw, from southern end of range -- We need a small amount of wood from relatively low chill, choice selections of Asimina triloba to graft to Asimina parviflora. FYI, we have a few other opportunities to graft to natives. We are grafting quite a few native oaks of various species to burr oak . We have plenty of scion wood for this already. And we are grafting a number of Ilex americana with Ilex vomitoria scions, so as to have a caffinated tea plant growing on site. (We have a few Camellia sinensis also but they do not seem well adapted here and would take a lot of fuss to yield much.) Of seedlings of exotics we have planted, Loquat is ready to graft. We are looking for choice cultivars of Loquat as scionwood. We only need a little. We are also working with strawberry guava, regular guava (a long-shot here but maybe one of our seedlings will prove to be rather more cold hardy than the others), citrus of course, mayhaws (for land that floods), jujube, quince, hopefully pear (looking for rootstock seed), fig of course, mulberry, etc. We have bits and dabs of other things too. We also have an interest in bamboo, not exactly a rare fruit, but if you live near Gainesville/Ocala area and have Moso and/or Bambusa oldhamii (and maybe a bit of Phyllostachys bambusoides) , we would be interested in working something out. We are willing to pay fair rates for good quality scion wood and/or to swap for some of the native plants mentioned above or some of our permaculture publications. We have only been on site 3 years, so we do not have scion wood to swap at this time. We are looking at persimmon, jujube, and mayhaw for land subject to flooding, and we are giving up on fruit entirely and planning bald cypress for land that is underwater more than half the time. Dan Hemenway Barking Frogs Permaculture Center Sparr Florida USA ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Plant Propagation - These references may possibly be valuable references, if you *ever* become interested in plant propagation. Everything seems to be covered: Budding, Grafting (All Types), Air-Layering, Storing Plant Material, etc. Maybe you aren't sure how to propagate a particular type of plant? That's probably covered, also. I suggest you visit these locations, and bookmark (or download) those that are of particular interest. Leo Propagation Methods For Texas Fruits And Nuts (Temperate and Sub-Tropical) http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruitgarden/table2.html Methods of Propagation http://www.mrgrow.com/Tips/tip597.htm Stem Cutting, Division, Grafting: (Basic Angle Graft, Whip and Tongue Graft, Side Veneer Graft), and Air-layering Grafting (and Budding) http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/grafting.html Grafting: When to Graft, Selecting and Handling Scion Wood, Types of Grafts: Cleft Graft, Bark Graft, Side-Veneer Graft, Splice Graft, Whip and Tongue Graft, Saddle Graft, Bridge Graft, Inarch Graft. Budding Side Veneer Grafting http://165.91.48.7/propagation/sidegrafting/sidegrafting.html Approach Grafting - Considerations and Technique http://165.91.48.7/propagation/approachgraft/approach.html Cleft Grafting - When Rootstock Larger Than Scion, or... http://165.91.48.7/propagation/cleftgrafting/cleftgrafting.html T-Budding (When Bark Is Slipping) or Shield Budding (When It Isn't) http://165.91.48.7/propagation/budding/budding.html Collecting and Storing Graftwood http://165.91.48.7/propagation/collect/collect.html The Four-Flap Graft - "...easy-to-do, successful...." http://165.91.48.7/propagation/fourflap/fourflap.html "Ideal for small-caliper trees up to 1 inch in diameter, most successful when the scion and rootstock pieces are near the same diameter. The best fit is obtained when the scion is slightly larger than the stock. The best time to graft is April to mid-May when the rootstock is actively growing, the bark "slips" freely and leaflets are 1/2- to 3/4-inch long." Texas Method - Inlay Bark Graft http://165.91.48.7/propagation/inlay/inlay.html Texas Inlay Bark Graft-This technique uses an inlay cut and employs an entirely new system of covering the graft and stock. The inlay occurs when two parallel cuts are made through the stock bark forming a scion inlay pattern on the stock. Aluminum foil is used as a stock cover, reflecting sunlight and reducing temperatures around the graft. The Foil is covered with polyethylene film to assure constant high relative humidity around the graft. This system not only results in a high percentage of growing grafts, but it is easy to use. Subject: 104 things to do with bananas-Banana recipe site Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 16:13:46 -0500 Suggested by: Jane Rosenberg http://www.dmgi.com/recipes0.html Dear Leo; 104 things to do with bananas. http://www.dmgi.com/recipes0.html Jane Rosenberg mailto:janerose@cmn.net ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ Message: 5 Digest Number 240 Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 16:36:26 -0600 From: "Doreen Howard" Subject: Paw Paw Pollination The following was in the current issue of the quarterly newsletter from the Illinois Native Plant Society. Why Paw Paw Produce Few Fruit Paw paw (Asiminia triloba) is a quite common woody plant in forests throughout most of Illinois, and specimens are often found in the spring with abundant blossoms. However, paw paw rarely produces many fruit. The reason why paw paw produces few fruits is quite simple. According to Dave Owen, in an article he published in the North Carolina Wild Flower Preservation Society, the primary pollinator of paw paw is a group of small carrion flies. In absence of these insects, paw paw does not produce fruit. Since paw paw is becoming a more important species in the native fruit industry, commercial growers place animal entrails from slaughterhouses on the plants to attract the carrion flies. The result of this practice has been production of large quantities of fruit. Perhaps if you are interested in growing paw paw for the tasty fruit, you should give this method a try. Owen does not suggest this method if you live in or around sensitive neighbors in either rural or urban areas. Doreen Howard mailto:doreen@fgi.net Message: 6 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:43:01 -0800 From: "Lon J. Rombough" Subject: Re: Paw Paw Pollination NAFEX's own Corwin Davis found this out years ago. He put roadkills around for the purpose. Lon J. Rombough mailto:lonrom@hevanet.com Digest Number 243; Message: 14 Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 15:54:29 -0700 (MST) From: Nikolai Subject: Grafting-Increasing Takes With "Rooting Powder" For outside grafting, here in zone 3/2, the earliest to start is about April 21. I check the weather forcast and make sure a cold front isn't coming, and then I get to it. I remember a rule of thumb, "if its uncomfortable and too cold for you, don't graft". I'm speaking of grafting apples and plums, not nut trees. It usually freezes 2 or 3C after I graft, but this doesn't seem to stop them from taking. Anything that doesn't take gets regrafted in late May. I dip the scionwood in #1 rooting powder which I've been doing the last three years. It increases my takes, especially on questionable scionwood, by about 25%. With good technique and good scionwood you don't need the rooting powder. The grafting season up here is much longer than people think. As an experiment I kept delaying a few grafts to see how long I could graft into the summer and still get takes. So far my record is June 22. The apple grafts took on a tree I was topworking, but only grew perhaps 7 or 8 inches. The next year they grew normally. This year I may try grafting on the July long weekend and see if I can extend the June 22 record. Bernie Nikolai mailto:Nikolai@powersurfr.com Edmonton, Alberta -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Subject: grafting breadfruit Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 11:42:14 -0800 From: "digby gotts" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com I have just rejoined the group after moving to Samoa. I am wondering if any one has experience of grafting breadfruit that they would care to share. Normally grown from root suckers, but I am being asked if grafts would work. Digby Gotts mailto:tlaiti@lesamoa.net Subject: Re: grafting breadfruit Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:13:33 PST From: Warren Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Digby, Althought I admit to having NO experience with Breadfruit, I recently took a class in Tropical/Subtropical fruits and was given the information that it can be grafted using a side veneer graft. Good luck. Warren mailto:wpc728@hotmail.com Subject: Re: grafting breadfruit Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:18:12 -0800 From: Sven Merten Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Digby, I've heard you can cut the root stock off just above where you want to graft and let the latex flow out for a few minutes. Then go ahead and graft and there will be less latex to interfere with the union of the two cambiums. This was for Sapodilla which also has a lot of latex. Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: Persimmon Retraction Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 18:07:29 -0800 From: Doug Hyers Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com After speaking with Mr Mercer of Turkeytown orchards and nursery in Chiefland Fl I learned they pulled all the pollenizers out in order to "get the seeds out". I had posted to the list looking for a source for pollenizers. Mr Mercer has written papers for the University and each year hosts the seminar for the persimmon growers at his immaculate place. He has the most beautiful persimmon trees and fruit and did have pollenation in his orchard for years and even developed a pollenizer named Turkeytown. He is a wealth of information and I have a page of growing tips he's given me. I will certainly take his advice and wait for my trees to get about 5 years of age before they hold fruit rather than pollenate in order to hold fruit. Thank you all who responded. Doug, Gainesville, Fl Subject: Re: Persimmon Retraction Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 17:55:32 -0800 From: "Doug Hyers" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com scoutdog-@postoffice.pacbell.net wrote: >Hi Doug, Anything on that page of growing tips that you can share >with us? >Thanks, Sven Keeping in mind that these tips are from North central Florida, Mr Mercer highly recommends an old citrus fertilizer 4-6-8 doubled to be 8-12-16 with acidic make-up to be used after bringing the soil to about 6.5 ph. He uses this fertilizer on everything he grows from bananas to papayas to eggplant, but primarily it is formulated for the persimmons.He only grows the fuyu as they bear a longer season. He puts a 55 gallon drum of water under the papaya to radiate heat up on frosty nights to extend the season. He feels chicken manure tends toward alkaline. Out of quite a few fejoia varieties tested he feels Trask is best tasting. Borax can kill a banana. Potassium helps against cold damage. These tips are from pioneer persimmon researcher, Jim Mercer of Turkeytown Nursery and Orchard, Chiefland,Fl. Doug Hyers mailto:happytobehere@webtv.net Gainesville, Fl Subject: Hazelnuts Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 09:02:12 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com J.D. Prince.. In a communication with Alan Schroeder of the California Rare Fruit Growers, I learned of some low-chill cultivars of hazelnuts:" 'Tombul Ghiagli', 'Tonda di Giffoni', 'OSU 880-600' and 'San Giovanni'. These cultivars originated in Sothern Italy and Turkey and require between 300-600 chill hours; 'San Giovanni' requiring the least. Of course, they all require cross pollination to set a crop." "Seeds, scions and rooted layers are available through the National Germplasm Repository, 33447 Peoria Rd., Corvallis, Oregon 97333. Phone 503 750-8712: Fax 503 750-8717. For rooted cuttings, it is probably best to ask for non-dormant seedlings. These come up every year there in Oregon but are just plowed under as they would not survive their winters, but since they require no winter chilling, would be perfect for places like Souther California. About 25% of all hazelnut seedlings will be non-dormant. The only problem is that since they would be open pollinated, you could not be certain as to the quality of the nuts, and they would need to be grafted." Alan gave as a reference: Mehlenbacher, Shawn "Chilling Requirement of Hazelnut Cultivars" Scienta Horticulturae , 47 (1991) 271-282 Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Anaheim Hills, CA Subject: Re: To those schooled in cocoa Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 05:08:56 -0800 From: Bryan Brunner Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi Cory, Cacao does well in deep shade or partial shade, but when mature can tolerate full sun (like mangosteen), especially if you get a lot of rain. It should do fine for you! We make a good hot chocolate drink without a lot of work or processing. First, you need to clean off the pulp from the seeds, either by eating it, or fermenting it for a couple of days and washing it off. Then simply roast the seeds in the oven or in a pan over a fire, grind them, boil them in milk, add a little vanilla and sweeten to taste. Delicious! Also, we just break the pod in half, and suck the sweet pulp off the seeds, holding the lower half of the pod like an ice cream cone... we call it "mountain ice cream"! Although I have never done it, I'm sure the pulp could also be used as a juice and dessert flavoring, like the cacao relative, cupuacu (Theobroma grandiflorum). Bryan - Puerto Rico mailto:brbrunner@yahoo.com -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None, this time >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - February 15, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - March 1, 2000 - AKA RFN200003A.txt To see back issues of the newsletter, visit the online group, "OldRFN" OldRFN is at http://www.visto.com/j.html?g=16812838.WDY3NjdX Please keep me advised of trouble with the OldRFN webpage. Note in Passing: 1. Sainarong Rasananda has an extensive discussion entitled "The Effectiveness of Potassium Chlorate" in the Readers Write section. Mr. Sainarong Rasananda is in Thailand and is a commercial grower of longans. 2. My ISP (ABAC aka A+Net) is making life pretty nearly intolerable in sending out newsletters. I hope you will bookmark the OldRFN address (above) so you can rely on that for the newsletter, if and when it doesn't show up. I hate to change providers. I'm lazy and hate going through breaking- in process of configuring to a new provider, but I've gotta do it. They're making me send my almost 400 newsletters 20-25 at a time! It took all day to get the address book lists changed. Leo ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, Israel: How To Grow Citrus & Subtropicals? Michael Tidhar New Subscriber, CA, Has Impressive Fruit List; Wants Lychee Help Gloria Walton New Subscriber, CA; Wants To Learn About Rare Fruit John Ingram --Readers Write Re: Ceibo Tree Dan Hemenway Pi–a Mango Eunice Messner To: Marsha Jackson Antitranspiration as freeze protection Ed To: Richard Re: antitranspiration as freeze protection Richard K. Gross To: Ed Ice Cream Bananas Matthew Shugart Woodrow the cacao man Amy Fernandez Pineapple plant hasn't produced a fruit yet Tiffaney Denise Pete How to grow a papaya in a container? Tiffaney Denise Pete Selecting banana and protecting avocado Nan Sterman OldRFN: It's working again Tiffaney Denise Pete The Effectiveness of Potassium Chlorate Sainarong Rasananda What Is This Fruit? CANEPA? Chris What Time Of Year To Plant Subtropical Fruit Trees Here? Nan Sterman RE: What Time Of Year To Plant Subtropical Fruit Trees Here? From: Leo Manuel To: Nan Sterman --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Subject: Encyclopedia of Grafting (From A to Z) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 06:18:13 -0800 http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/hort400/graftage/Glossary.htm Probably everyone can learn something from this site! Leo --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List Re: Pear Rootstocks Leo Manuel Re: Re: Pear Rootstocks Ed & Pat Fackler Re: Re: Pear Rootstocks Dr. Ethan Natelson Re: Re: Pear Rootstocks Lon J. Rombough --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Re: To those schooled in cocoa John Carrasquillo Re: monstera deliciosa Gloria Walton Re: Chocolate trees and growing chocolate Karen Janssen Is lucmo tasty fruit? Greg Woolley Re: Is lucmo tasty fruit? J D Prince Re: - another taste question J D Prince Starfruit help miekal Re: starfruit help Bob Cannon II Genetic Dwarf Peaches Julian Garcia -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None, this time ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Israel: How To Grow Citrus & Subtropicals? Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:08:33 +0200 From: Michael Tidhar I would very much like to receive your newsletter (back issues as well). I am Michael Tidhar I have a small place in Israel with some 50 citrus trees and another 40 tropical and subtropical trees planted. Most of my trees are still very young and I had no previous experience so I look forward to being able to pick the brains of anyone willing to help. I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks Michael Tidhar mailto:tstid@netvision.net.il Subject: New Subscriber, CA, Has Impressive Fruit List; Wants Lychee Help Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:17:57 -0800 (PST) From: Gloria Walton Dear Leo, I am Gloria L.L. Walton, in Montecito (Santa Barbara) Fruit trees I am growing: sapote, apricot, peaches, (a donut) ( a ? started by seed, by my 95 year old auntie ) and an old peach planted in 1917 when my house was built ) fig, star fruit (sri-Kambamga) hylocereus undatus (white flesh) Pitahaya, persimmon,' three mangos, Carrie, and Nam Doc Mi, and a Glenn, a Lychee, that has been in the ground for 7 years, and still no fruit, a longan (Biew Kiew), a Bearss lime, a moro orange, a lemon, a plum, valencia orange, an asian pear, a plumcot,a wax Jambu, a Monstera deliciosa, a Cherimoya, Jaboticaba, I think I've left out a few others. What am I doing wrong, that after 7 years in the ground, my lychee is still not bearing fruit, Last year a pounded a small nail in it to scare it, I've also told it that it will be shoveled pruned if it doesn't produce. It always gets lots of blossoms. Thanks Gloria Walton mailto:gllw@webtv.net Subject: New Subscriber, CA; Wants To Learn About Rare Fruit Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 22:03:57 -0800 From: John Ingram Hi, I am John Ingram, in Los Angeles, CA I am not now growing any fruit trues, but I want to grow: mango, papaya, and many others I've yet to learn I'm a garden designer in the Los Angeles area and wish to include more exotic fruits into my landscape designs that include many tropical plants including palms, cycads, gingers, and large flowering trees. I want to learn about cultural requirements, plant sources, temperature requirements including minimum cold and warm temp. For fruit production, etc. John Ingram mailto:Floralartistry@email.msn.com -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Re: Ceibo Tree Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:32:36 EST From: Permacltur@aol.com On 2/15/00 8:25:01 AM, Dan McKean writes: <> Erythrina is a genus with various species throughout the Americas. In the USA, we have a few species that are adapted to recover after being frozen to the ground. The California species may be such. We have E. herbacea (or somethng close) in Florida that routinely gets killed back to ground level. it has a bulb-like swelling inthe stem just be low ground level which is obviously food reserve for regrowth, as in other such organans in herbaceous plants. Species in tropical America grow to large trees in many cases. They are very ornamental and quite TOXIC. The seed is an excellent rat poison. Some species are mentioned for minor food used, but I strongly recommend against it. This is of course a nitrogen-fixing legume. The bright red pulse is often called coral bean, or some variant on that, and the common name covers a number of different Erythrina species. Dan Hemenway mailto:Permacltur@aol.com Sparr, FL Zone 9 Subject: Pi–a Mango Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:32:54 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: Marsha Jackson Marsha Jackson.... The Pi–a mango is commonly called the Pineapple mango because of its acidic flavor. Its seed is polyembryonic so one may plant the seed and get multiple trees growing from the one seed. Chances are most will be a clone of the parent tree. The seedlings arising from the one embryo may be separated into several pots. Since this mango is not exceedingly sweet, I find it best dehydrated. It is delicious as a fruit snack. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Subject: antitranspiration as freeze protection Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 15:25:15 EST From: Ed To: Richard Hello Richard, You recently wrote, "... we need to investigate the new field of anti-transpiration sprays." Do you have any info on this? Many thanks. Ed mailto:Link2itc@aol.com Subject: Re: antitranspiration as freeze protection Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 14:43:14 -0800 From: Richard K. Gross To: Ed Not much, Ed. There are a number of brands I can't recall off the top of my head. They all perform several miracles as I remember the literature. I have tried two with only casual observation and detected no response from their use. Actually, one wouldn't look for response but less stress in cold or excess heat compared to plants that have not been sprayed. What blows my mind is that, somewhere near the end of instructions, you might read something that goes like this, ". . . . all leaf surfaces must be covered . . ." Unless he has a high pressure fogger, the average home owner can't do that. He might get 40% or 50% on a tree or bush with a lot of vegetation but by the time he is finished he himself will be soaked in it. Although it is said to be safe and harmless, I don't particularly like the idea. The "coverage" factor may not be all that important but, if taken at face value, one must coat all surfaces. There is quite a lot of stuff on the Internet but I haven't found the time to study it. What I've suggested is that our Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers do some home tests with careful data collection to find out if it works well enough to be worth the trouble. I carefully treated several banana plants in 1998. All the leaves froze at about 31F except one plant on which I had focused a cheap $1 yard sale air fan on a stick; not enough information, however, to draw any conclusions. I would very much like to use anti-transpirants if they work. At this point, I just don't know. Perhaps, from Leo Manuel's RFN, we can get some personal success stories and ideas on how to best use the stuff in the home landscape. That, it occurs to me, might be a profitable sideline for some enterprising individuals; to offer treatment to home owners similar to the service offered, for example, by pest exterminators, the likes of which I haven't patronized in 15 years. Best regards, Dick Gross mailto:rkg144@worldnet.att.net Subject: Ice Cream Bananas Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 17:08:15 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart To: Barry Barry, I saw your message on Ice Cream bananas. Could you describe the problem you are having? I have this variety, too, and three of the last four fruit stalks that have formed have failed to ripen. The bananas turn brownish black and shrivel. I had assumed it was cold weather that was the culprit. Maybe it is something else? I do have one stalk right now that looks OK. Two others from the same stand are history. I'd like to compare notes with your experience. Matthew Shugart mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:53:40 PST From: Amy Fernandez Subject: Woodrow the cacao man Hi Leo, do you know whatever happened to Woodie Cooke of cacao tree fame? Amy Fernandez mailto:marvlusgrdns@ecom.net zone 10 or 23 Orange County, Calif. www.ecom.net/~jimandmissi/marvelous Subject: Pineapple plant hasn't produced a fruit yet Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:06:12 -0500 From: Tiffaney Denise Pete Hi, I planted a pineapple about 2 yrs ago. I placed apple halves around the plant on at least two occassions. I have beautiful green leaves but no pineapple. What am I doing wrong? I live in an apt. in Atlanta so the plant stays inside only when the weather gets cold. In the warmer months, the plant stays on the balcony. Tiffaney Pete mailto:tiffaney@mindspring.com (Atlanta/Smyrna, GA) Subject: How to grow a papaya in a container? Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:09:07 -0500 From: Tiffaney Denise Pete Hello, I am attempting to grow a Hawaiian Solo Papaya from seedling in a container. What special preparations are required for its growth? Should I rub the pulp off of the seedlings before planting them or should I let them dry out first? Tiffaney Pete mailto:tiffaney@mindspring.com (Atlanta/Smyrna, GA) Subject: Selecting banana and protecting avocado Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 09:37:05 -0800 From: Nan Sterman Hi Leo and friends... Can anyone recommend a banana who's fruit ripens before November and has good tasting fruit? It doesn't have to be extremely frost hardy, I get a handful of nights around 30 degrees between the end of November and January. Also, I am looking to plant an avocado tree near where I lost a very young one to frost a few years ago. I want to use the avocado to replace an Acacia longifolia and I am thinking of pruning the acacia so that I can plant the avocado into the foliage to protect the avocado in its youth. LIke many of these acacias, this one lies on its side so that the stump of the acacia is actually about 6 feet from where I will plant the avocado though it will be surrounded by leaves and branches. What do you all think? Will the acacia shelter the avocado until it is a big kid? Thanks Nan Sterman mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com Sunset Zone 24 Subject: OldRFN: It's working again Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 21:09:53 -0500 From: Tiffaney Denise Pete Hi Leo, Previously, I could see the list of files but I received the script error message when attempting to download an actual file. I rechecked the website today and I am able to download the files again. I guess the site was under some kind of construction. Many thanks for your help though. Tiffaney Pete mailto:tiffaney@mindspring.com (Atlanta/Smyrna, GA) Subject: The Effectiveness of Potassium Chlorate Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 15:37:48 +0700 From: Sainarong Rasananda We have been using potassium chlorate for about 16 months now. One or two have been using it for more than 5 years. The preliminary results suggest that there is no worrisome effect on the consumers, the trees or the environment provided that it is not used in excess. The explosive properties of the substance are of course always a matter of deep concern. It now appears that, during the first months of its discovery, the conditions were ideal for the application of potassium chlorate. As a result, people thought that the chemical was highly effective for all conditions. Later results suggest that this is not so. The chemical is unbelievably highly effective under ideal conditions. Under less ideal conditions, the results vary from no flowering, flush instead of bloom, late flowering, a very high percentage of male flowers, very poor fruit set, poor-quality fruits, small fruits. The adverse conditions appear to be excess rain, insufficient water, insufficient nutrients, not-fully healthy trees, insufficient sunshine and cold weather at the wrong time. Of all the adverse conditions, cold weather appears to play a major role. Those, familiar with the longan trees, fully appreciate that the trees do not respond well to hormones and other chemicals: the trees respond readily to the weather. And the subtlety of their response to the weather is rather delicate and complicated. A certain change of weather at a certain time, evn if it is for a relatively short period, can make an appreciable difference. I do not think that we are yet aware of all the longan's responses to various changes in the weather. You will no doubt be happy to hear that our longan's Chinese New Year crop this year is of poor quality in general. We think that the cold weather plays a major role in this. However, this year is unusually very cold, and the central part of Thailand is hardly ever cold. On a personal note. My longan trees last year were treated with potassium chlorate. One orchard produced satisfactory good-quality longans. I couild not tell the difference between the KClO3-treated longans and the naturally-produced ones, and I ate a lot of longans daily during the harvest. However, the other orchard produced poor-quality longans. I am doing experiments to find out how to consistently produce good-quality longans all the time. However, I do not think I can overcome the severe adverse weather effect. Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th Subject: What Is This Fruit? CANEPA? Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 12:39:07 -0500 From: CRMSNTD While living in Puerto Rico, I ate what I believe would be considered a fruit. Green skin, orange (fleshy) inside, single seed (two sometimes) Break the skin and eat the fleshy fruit from the seed. It was usually bought on the side of the road (Luquillo Beach). It grows in groups like grapes. It is larger than a grape yet smaller than a a golf ball. It was called "CANEPA". In season from July-August. Are there other names that it goes by & can they be found in the US? Thanks for your help, Chris mailto:CRMSNTD@concentric.net Subject: What Time Of Year To Plant Subtropical Fruit Trees Here? Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:07:03 -0800 From: Nan Sterman Hi Leo, I couldn't find your phone number, so I am emailing you a quick question -- I'd appreciate your response as soon as is convenient as I am working on deadline for this one. Unlike most of my questions, this one is not for my yard -- Are the following tropical plants appropriate to plant in May: citrus, mango, banana, cherimoya, star fruit? Which others can be planted in May and when do we STOP planting tropicals for the year? Thanks Nan Sterman mailto:nsterman@mindsovermatter.com Sunset Zone 24 Subject: re: What Time Of Year To Plant Subtropical Fruit Trees Here? Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:14:06 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Nan Sterman Hi Nan, I believe you can plant subtropicals any time of the year in our subtropical climate, but I'd personally avoid anytime it's likely to be really hot, but even then, you can put shade cloth to screen the hot sun, and it's not a bad idea, anyway. If you lived in an area subject to frost, I'd advise waiting until all danger of frost is over. I'll publish your question. Yours, Leo ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: Encyclopedia of Grafting (From A to Z) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 06:18:13 -0800 http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/hort400/graftage/Glossary.htm Probably everyone can learn something from this site! Leo ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ [nafex] Digest Number 264 Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 05:18:45 -0800 From: Leo Manuel Subject: Re: Pear Rootstocks You probably know that Winter Banana apple can serve as rootstock for pear for a while, at least. I would use it only for short-term, until I got either a pear rootstock or quince (A or C) to transfer it onto. It would be interesting for a young-person project to experiment, using Winter Banana as an interstem, to put together a fruit-salad tree of various apples and pears. Of course, if you use quince, you should use either a compatible pear, or an interstem of a compatible pear. I believe Magness and Comice are two. Horticordially, Leo Manuel mailto:leom@rarefruit.com Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 08:36:43 -0500 From: Ed & Pat Fackler Subject: Re: Re: Pear Rootstocks The above is a great idea (esp. for a young person!). Over the years, I've tried many cvs. of pear on quince (based on Jim Ozzello's article in Pomona some 15 years back). Anyway, the ones which were the most reliable over a ten year period were Maxine, Magness and Warren. Many of these trees are now 12 years old+, average 8-9' in height and very productive. And they have never been irrigated. They are supported. In addition to the fine idea of Leo's, I'd like to see Spur type Winter Banana used as an interstem. Ed & Pat Fackler mailto:rocmdw@aye.net Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 16:46:03 -0500 (EST) From: Dr. Ethan Natelson Subject: Re: Re: Pear Rootstocks Dear Leo, Actually, I did just the project you describe a few years ago (I was younger then) using Superclone as the base plant. This is an apple rootstock which was alleged to support growth of pears too. The problem is that it likes apples better and so those branches get favored growth. Additionally, not all pears were equally compatible. I still have a branch or two of pears on this tree. Now that I am older, I realize it was a bad idea. Regards, Dr. Ethan Natelson mailto:natelson@pipeline.com Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 13:54:07 -0800 From: Lon J. Rombough Subject: Re: Re: Pear Rootstocks This was also done at Oregon State U. Asian pears on M26 with an interstem of Winter Banana. Worked well and gave nice little dwarf trees with good bearing. The experiment ran for about 10 years and no real incompatibility problems showed up. The 1987 NAFEX meeting was at OSU and the group got to see the trees then. Dr. Porter Lombard was the man in charge of the experiment. Lon J. Rombough mailto:lonrom@hevanet.com -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Subject: Re: To those schooled in cocoa Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:04:18 AST From: John Carrasquillo Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com I grow sun cacao cultivars. To prepare the most tasty hot chocolate, I ferment the seed's for 2 week's , rinse & dry the seed's well in the sun. Then grind to a fine flour-paste, add to hot milk , a dash of salt, pour in some home grown , home cured vanilla extract, can also add some cinamon. To ferment I add some yeast, and place all the pulp mass in a tupenware in the sun, after the alcoholic fermentation is over. I drain out the liquid daily, So that the seed's don't absorb the acetic acid that is formed , removing the lid and cover with a cheeze cloth. to avoid insects, keep in the sun until the beans turn redish, from there usual purple color, and turn less bitter. Then I dry in full sun , then roast like if you were roasting peanuts dont overdo like coffe. The fermentation is a home process ive adapted from what I have read. Simply fermenting exposed to the air from the bigining , has induced the colonization by molds. That is why i add the yeast. If i roast the beans without fermenting they are too bitter and lack enogh flavor. If you overdo fermentation, you get smokey flavored seed's. They are different types of cocoa beans with varing amount's of bitternes. Curing home grown vanilla in also a fun proces. Anyone else has tried curing cocoa &/or vanilla ? It is very nourishing, you will feel the energy jolt. But not irritating like if you overdo coffe. You will see the cocoa butter float to the surface if you let stand, and it will solidify at low temp like in the frige. John Carrasquillo mailto:mdcarrasquillo@hotmail.com Subject: Re: monstera deliciosa Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 09:56:13 -0800 (PST) From: gllw@webtv.net (GLORIA WALTON) Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi Karen, I tasted my first bite's at Sven's home. He shared one of his fruits with us, and it was fabulous, and very deliciosa, rather pineapply sweetish cherimoyaish taste and very addictive. for a little while after you have eaten it your tongue feels a little hairy. but since it take's 3 years to fruit, I may be waiting for another bite for sometime. Gloria Walton mailto:gllw@webtv.net Subject: Re: Chocolate trees and growing chocolate Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 16:56:25 -0800 From: Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com The L.A. Times had a nice article on Venezuela's chocolate trees at http://www.latimes.com/food/20000223/t000017297.html Take a look. I found it most interesting. Karen Janssen mailto:ilea@worldnet.att.net Garden Grove, CA Subject: Is lucmo tasty fruit? Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 02:15:44 +0800 From: Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com All, I have a young lucmo plant and am wondering whether to plant it in hi or low priority place in my garden. I would really like to know what the people here on this list (who have tasted it) think of this fruit. Is it an excellent tasting fruit, good, fair, or a poor tasting fruit? According to the description at:- http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/lucmo.html "The fruit is eaten raw, out-of-hand, when fully ripe but Costa Ricans find that, though the flavor is appealing at first, one soon finds it repulsive because of the peculiar aftertaste. The lucmo has been stewed in sirup, used as pie-filling, and made into preserves. Currently, some fruits are being shipped from Chile to England where they are being used in making ice cream. A dehydrated, powdered product is being produced by a tomato cannery in Peru". Is this an accurate description? Any comments and descriptions of this fruit much appreciated. Thanks, Greg Woolley mailto:gregw@amitar.com.au Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:51:08 -0800 (PST) From: Bob Cannon II Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Subject: re: Is lucmo tasty fruit? Greg, I have eaten a few of these and found them fairly good, no after taste. There IS a problem if the fruit is not ripe as the plant contains latex, so let the fruit ripen well. I would give the tree a good location, remember that if your own tastes are not infavor of the lucmo that it can be grafted over to another species. Best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:cannonconsult@yahoo.com http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Re: Is lucmo tasty fruit? Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 11:24:34 +1300 From: "J D Prince" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com A good discussion, more up to date than Morton's is in "Fruits of Tropical and Subtropical Origin" edited by Nagy, Shaw and Wardowski (1990). The chapter on Lucuma says it has a dry, mealy flesh, not usually eaten out of hand. Instead, it is used to mix with cream, ice cream, or in cakes and tarts, etc as a flavoring. i.e. it should be looked on as a desert flavoring. "The fruit has very high acceptance in local markets of Chile and Peru, but less so in Ecuador." I can remember eating the powdered product that Annemarie Endt had brought back from one of her trips with her husband, Dick, to South America. That would have been about 1983, and it was described as having a flavor that was a mix of two other familiar ones. I remembered for years what it was, but have forgotten which two. Maybe (probably?) vanilla-butterscotch. Anyway, I do recall that it was very pleasant, and distinct. So, in answer to the original question, the flavor is fine (though presumably variable if we are talking about trees grown from seed). But flavor is not the only important criterion. I've only eaten bits of a couple of fruit in New Zealand. I say "bits" because it really wasn't for eating directly. Dry, cooked egg yoke is the sort of description of the texture sometimes used. Some are reputed to be better to eat as fresh fruit, and I have a couple of those trees, but they are a long way from fruiting yet. John Prince & Rosemary Steele, mailto:Nestlebrae.Exotics@xtra.co.nz Nestlebrae Exotics, 219 South Head Road, Parkhurst, website: http://www.helensville.co.nz/nestlebrae.htm Subject: Re: - another taste question Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 11:30:50 +1300 From: "J D Prince" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Can I ask the group for help on another question of fruit quality- taste, acceptability, etc? I've got a seedling Artocarpus hypargyraeus or Kwai Muk. I've been intrigued by the possibility of growing this for many years since I saw it mentioned in an article on Artocarpus species written by David Chandlee in the Australian Rare Fruits journal back about 1988. Seeds are not easy to come by. I tried many avenues, but did finally get a tree growing. It is now about 4 years old, or a bit more, and has had a hesitant initial attempt at flowering this summer. (Nothing came of the first few flowers). Is it inherently a good enough fruit that I should put more time and money into trying to get examples of it, or is it just another curiosity without much appeal? John Prince & Rosemary Steele, mailto:Nestlebrae.Exotics@xtra.co.nz Nestlebrae Exotics, 219 South Head Road, Parkhurst, website: http://www.helensville.co.nz/nestlebrae.htm Subject: Starfruit help Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:17:31 -0600 From: Miekal Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com I have a few starfruit which I started from seed & was growing in a terrarium for a couple years. In the last year or so they have been slowly declining & I have removed them from the terrarium. They still seem to be alive but have dropped their leaves. Can anyone recommend what things they might benefit from growing in a container. Light? Nutrition? Medium? I just joined the list a few days ago from a lead on the edible landscaping list. I list in Wisconsin & all of my "exotic" collection is grown in containers in the windows of my house (no greenhouse). Everything is moved outside in the summer. I am always interested in fruits which are productive in container culture. My main collection is about 15 kinds of figs in 5 gallon pickle buckets, but I also have some citrus, guava, pomegranate, loquat, nothing really that qualifies as "rare" tho they are all rare up here .... Miekal mailto:dtv@mwt.net zone 4 Subject: Re: starfruit help Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:51:08 -0800 (PST) From: Bob Cannon II Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Miekal, You should be able to grow the starfruit under the same basic conditions as the guava. Outdoors they are almost equal to citrus but take a little warmer temperatures. Make sure that the soil is well drained. You may have lost the leaves when transfering from the high humidity terrarium to a drier atmosphere. Best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:cannonconsult@yahoo.com http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Genetic Dwarf Peaches Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 02:28:54 -0500 (EST) From: Julian Garcia Reply-To: rarefruit@EGROUPS.COM Does anyone who has actually tried some of the various genetic dwarf peaches have any favorites? I'm looking for a large, sweet excellent quality genetic dwarf peach that can stand up to the quality of peaches such as the Kim Elberta and Santa Barbara Peaches or Eva's Pride. I recently obtained the Bonanza (an old favorite which some who have tasted it like and others consider average in taste) as well as the El Dorado supposedly of exceptional fruit quality and the Southern Babe which is supposed to be very sweet. Has anyone tasted Garden Pride or Southern Rose genetic dwf peaches and recommend it as high quality or are they average flavor peaches compared to the ones I have? (Taste is obviously very subjective but any help would be appreciated as I have tasted none of these myself) Thanks, Julian mailto:jagjag@pol.net -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None, this time >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - March 1, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - March 15, 2000 - AKA RFN20003B.txt --Notes In Passing 1. Santol's Tropical Fruit Home Page at http://www.gate.net/~santol/ I forget how much I enjoy this page of Bruce Livingston between the times I visit it. It has an amazing amount of information that is exactly what most of us are looking for. Time to visit it again! 2. Bob Cannon's "rarefruit list" rarefruit@egroups.com had several postings that have been of interest to me. Many of you are subscribers and I recommend it to all of you. 3. The Web Pages section also contains a jumble of Epiphyllum, Hylocereus, and Cactus Fruit Sites. I ran out of time for organizing them better, so I include them with my apologies. 4. FYI: Pacific Coast Tropical Gardens - Menlo Park, CA is having a moving sale. http://www.pctgardens.com/Frame2.html They're moving to Hawaii. (25 - 75% discount on some items.) ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) New Subscriber, CA, With Fruit Care Questions Joyce Greenlund --Readers Write Re: Epi fruits - untapped resource? Roy Dynan RE: What Is This Fruit? CANEPA? Sven To: Chris Epi fruits - untapped resource? Roy Dynan Re: Epi fruit David L Crawford [SMTP:dlcrawford@home.com] Bananas and avocado Eunice Messner To: Nan Sternam Re: Citrumelo / Citrandarin question? Lon J. Rombough & Jeff Re: Papaya/Thank you for the advice Tiffaney Denise Pete To: Tina Siegel Bananas Holzinger, Bob To: Nan Sterman Lychee Eunice Messner To: Gloria Papaya seeds Eunice Messner To: Tiffany Pete Re: Papaya seeds/Thanks Tiffaney Denise Pete To: Eunice Messner Canepa Holzinger, Bob To: Chris Canepa Eunice Messner To: Chris Cultural information for fruits Eunice Messner To: John Ingram Want Tart Crisp Jujube: What's Its Name? Beth Elliott --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Santol's Tropical Fruit Home Page - Articles by Santol http://www.gate.net/~santol/page3.html Australian New Crop Web Site additions Dr Rob Fletcher http://www.newcrops.uq.edu.au Here's a jumble of Epiphyllum, Hylocereus, and Cactus Fruit Sites: Subject: Jim Hunter's Epi Universe http://www.epiuniverse.com/ Subject: Sources For Epiphyllum Cuttings http://surfnfax.com/epi/sources.htm Subject: San Diego Ephiphyllum Society - Taking care of this interesting plant http://surfnfax.com/epi/epicare.htm Subject: Epiphyllum/Orchid Cactus - Glenn's Epi page http://web.missouri.edu/~extgrice/nbc/ Subject: Epiphyllum - Edible fruit crop grown in fields in Mexico?? http://www.countrylife.net/ethnobotany/postings/20728.html Posted by David Nicholls on February 08, 1998 at 1:40 pm EST: Many if not all Epiphyllum fruit (tree dwelling(usually)cacti) are concidered edible. They seem to have had little or no attention from horticulturists, food gardeners. They seem like one of the tastier and more interesting possiblilities as an understory crop, as they are very shade tolerant. I've planted a few outside in Wellington, New Zealand, a temperate climate, they have grown reasonably fast and flowered (no fruit yet) so high heat may not be essential. My question is: has anyone seen or heard of Epiphyllum being grown in fields for their fruit in Mexico? I have only seen one passing (but authoritative) reference to this (Buxbaum 1958 Cactus Culture). Ethnobotony of Mexican Cacti is comparatively thorough, seems strange this would be the only reference to it if it is accurate. Perhaps it was grown once but no more, would be very interested to hear from anyone who can help me here, or knows anything else about local uses of Epiphylla Subject: Ethnolinks http://countrylife.net/ethnobotany/ethnolinks.html Subject: Epiphyllum http://www.sierratel.com/tses/epiphyllum.html Subject: recipes cactus, etc http://www.sierratel.com/tses/page3.html Subject: Smithsonian Catalog of Botanical Illustrations - Hylocereus http://www.nmnh.si.edu/botart/hylocere.htm Subject: Climbing and Columnar Cacti: New Arid Land Fruit Crops http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/proceedings1999/v4-358.html#climbing --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) Re: Musa Basjoo Dave Poole --NAFEX List None, this time --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Mango brown leaf *911 Julian Garcia Re: Mango brown leaf *911 Bob Cannon Re: GENETIC DWARF PEACHES Joyce Greenlund PROSEA Handbook Sven Merten Re: PROSEA Handbook Barry & Margarita Mangos - In Pots - Root Pruned William Butler Mangos - In Pots - Root Pruned William Butler Coffee Plant Food (For Miracle Fruit, Also) William Butler Re: coffee plant Clarence Coffee plants William Butler Re: Mango tree tap root (And, Polyembryonic Mango Seedlings) Greg Woolley Ê Re: Mango tree tap root (And, Polyembryonic Mango Seedlings) Warren C Re: Mango tree pruning - Tree Wants Say In Size! Julian Garcia Apricot Root Containment? Bill -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. New Fruit Coatings Help Abate Post-Harvest Fruit Decay Jesœs Garc’a Environmentally Friendly Insecticides Judy McBride ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, CA, With Fruit Care Questions Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 23:51:59 -0800 (PST) From: Joyce Greenlund I am Joyce Greenlund, in Santa Barbara, CA I am now growing mango,longan, deciduous fruits, figs, apples, pummelo, variety of other citrus, papaya, banana, guava, (tropical, strawberry and lemon) Feijoa, macadamia, cherimoya, persimmon (fuyu and hachiya), passiflora edulis, Pitahaya Hylocereus undatus, banana and Sapote and kiwi. Wanting to grow more mango, Longan Sri Chompoo, Star Fruit B10 and Sri Kambamga, Wax Jambu. Will any of these grow and bear successfully in 32" tubs? Banana are not fruiting as well as a number of years ago. Is it because I have cut back on the water? What kind of fertilizer should I be using and when? Joyce Greenlund mailto:EJG@webtv.net> -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Re: Epi fruits - untapped resource? Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 18:43:22 GMT From: roy.dynan@talk21.com Hi Leo, I'm not surprised you haven't heard of 'epi fruits' because epi is the name the growers use for epiphyllum hybrids - and in general they aren't interested in the fruits except as seed pods for new crosses. Their genetic makeup includes epiphytes which are known for fruit but also lots of others which aren't. I haven't yet found anyone documenting them in terms of fruit production. The actual species of pitahaya-bearing epiphytics do crop up occasionally in your pages and the CRFG (not enough - I'd like to see a year of the cactus), but there are very few references to the smaller hybrids anywhere, I first found them in a UK Channel 4 TV book called 'fruity stories'. I think there is a great untapped resource there because many are significantly hardier than the species (40F), they are fruitful (bred for free-flowering), and they are mostly a more manageable size (a big plant fits inside a 1m cube). They are pretty much the ideal windowsill orchard plant. The fact that they are beautiful and open their flowers in daytime for easier pollination makes them even more attractive to me. The fruits are mostly smaller (mini pitahayas?) but there is a wide range of flavour out there. My only mature plant produces a rich berry flavour, but I have heard of melon and kiwi flavours, right through to aniseed and liquorice. I'm sure lychee and papaya are in that gene pool somewhere. There is a slight boiled sweet flavour to mine but I'm hoping that harvesting a few days earlier will reduce that, even so they are plenty good enough to make this an interesting area for research. I would like to be able to recommend a named hybrid and specify its flavour but it is proving difficult. My main plants are a single unnamed clone and the 10 named hybrids I bought last year won't fruit until next spring. I have tried putting requests on the epi growers newsletter, but there's not a lot of interest there - most growers remove the fruit to improve flowering, of the few that keep them for breeding very few have tasted them, and of those I have found none who can name the good ones. Regards. PS. Yes I do seem to have dropped off the list but I keep up via the old RFN site. My preferred address is roy@cthonic.com though I use my work address for off-web letters. Subject: RE: What Is This Fruit? CANEPA? Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 18:45:04 -0800 From: Sven Merten To: CRMSNTD@concentric.net Hi Chris, It is a Mamoncillo or Spanish Lime (Melicoccus bijugatus), a relative of the lychee and longan. It is grown in Florida and Hawaii. Best regards, Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: Epi fruits - untapped resource? Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 16:07:09 GMT From: roy.dynan@talk21.com roy@cthonic.com ? Hi Leo, I've been lurking a bit on Rare Fruit News, but I'm still collecting wisdom on cactus fruits by pumping anyone who mentions them, especially epi's because they seem to be an untapped resource. I'm sending this to you because you might find David L Crawford's letter (#2 of 3) as interesting as I did, and he has agreed I can post it to you. I have included my stuff for context but please feel free to edit it out. I'm using my own email address for web postings to avoid upsetting my employer, it is roy@cthonic.com. I was hoping to get a meaningful domain like yours but the correct spelling had already been taken (one of the disadvantages of sharing a language with the web pioneers). Regards Roy mailto:roy.dynan@talk21.com mailto:roy@cthonic.com -----Original Message----- From: Dynan,Roy Sent: 03 March 2000 14:36 NRN R To: 'David L Crawford' Subject: RE: Epi fruit David, Thank you very much for replying so soon. I'm a similar age (49 soon) and despite only having about 15 apple trees in my back garden (all different heritage types, all small tight cordons), I was somewhat embarrassed recently when I realised that when two lost their labels I couldn't remember which was which - I'm going to have to wait until they both fruit in the same year before I can identify them! Epis are notoriously difficult to name, and I have no idea what my original one is. I suspect the UK epi society could tell me because it is so common - its hardiness is outstanding and you will usually find it on the windowsills of even the most desultory gardeners. UK gardening societies tend to be unbearably stuffy so I'm putting this off as long as possible - the fruit growers are OK of course - something about keeping your feet on the ground. My epi might be of interest to you because it has a fairly intense raspberry/blackberry flavour - not as intense as passionfruit but moreso than mulberry. I wouldn't say it was significantly less sweet than a raspberry but they are so variable. Have you ever tried Pitaya Amarilla? (selenicereus) - they are delicious but fairly subtle, on balance I probably prefer my epi fruit though it does have a hint of 'boiled sweet' about it. I will try harvesting a little earlier even if I have to lose some of the flavours I want. Since tasting my first crop from this unnamed hybrid I have invested in a mixed bag of 10 cuttings from Paul Shirley in Holland, but it will be at least another year before any of them produce. PS. Are you aware of the California Rare Fruit Growers or Leo Manuel's rarefruit newsletter? I think your letter would be of interest to the Leo's friends, and with your permission I would like to forward this 'triple' to it. If you want to look at the setup before agreeing it would be best to start at Leo's website (www.rarefruit.com ). Please say yes. Thanks again. PPS. I find the prospect of anise a bit off-putting too, I can't stand anise drinks and I can only just cope with caraway. Liquorice is sort of OK. -----Original Message----- From: David L Crawford [SMTP:dlcrawford@home.com] Sent: 01 March 2000 07:22 To: roy.dynan Subject: Re: Epi fruit I have a rather checkered past when it comes to the world of epips. I'm 50 last year. Back in my late teens I took over control of my Dads collection of some 30/40 plants that his father had sent to him over many more years than I'd been alive. Over the next ~20 yrs. I built the collection up to over 100 pots. Most of these never had names. Grand dad would use a pin and "brand" the cutting leaf with the name. Eventually that starting leaf would disappear and with it the ID. We also had a friend name of Cactus Max - here in the San Francisco east bay area - that ran a cactus nursery. He loved the epips and had a huge greenhouse where he made hybrids and kept his collection. As he grew too old to take care of the plants, I was given many of his in house hybrids. These are the plants that I played with and which grew my "fruits". Some time in the late 80s there was a terrible Alaskan cold front that dropped down with no advance warning and killed everything. (including most of the eucalyptus tree in the parks around here). The reaction was rather like having a old dog finally dies and to resolve that I'm just not going to go there again! I love to garden and about 6 years ago made a 10 x 10 potting shed that I covered most of the sides with plastic. I have gradually worked my way back up to about a dozen plants that have nearly taken over the shed. So, rather than have the plants get killed again, I have finished the first 20' of a 16 x 40 greenhouse. As soon as the rain stops I'll finish the rest and transfer the pots to their new home. And in what ever more time God allows me to play on this nasty little - every thing is temporary - rock, I'll turn my hand again to the most fun I've ever had working with plants. As I remember the taste always reminded me of a black berry that never developed enough sugar to be called sweet. I had one plant that produced many fruit that matured to the size and color of a Santa Rose plum that I learned to leave on until the fruit split. I remember going out every day and checking them - if left on after they split and rot within hours. They had a unique, wonderful flavor that I looked forward to every year. This was the plant that I hand pollinated every flower to try to produce the fruit. It set a dozen to ~20 every year and although became thin, would regain its strength every year during the late fall and winter. When I'm not in the garden, I work with the bees. Here in the east bay the late summer dry hills grow major acreage of anise. The honey from these hive must be harvested before ANY anise gets added. The flavor is strong and unmistakable! My calibrated taste buds that KNOW the presence of anise from a life time of sampling for it in the honey. I've made no association of the flavor with the epip fruits. Gracious - - didn't mean to turn this into a life history. As with most of us that love our hobbies, I could, given less than half a chance, talk for hours. David L Crawford mailto:dlcrawford@home.com] ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 8:53 AM Subject: Epi fruit > Hi David, > > Did you see my posting on epi fruit? Can you recommend any varieties for > fruit quality or are you growing the same 'raspberry boiled sweet' that I > am? > > Although ideally I'm looking to put flavours to named hybrids, any hints > from an expert would be helpful.... eg. Alain Jette suggested that hybrids > 'near' a species were best - this will definitely come in handy but how > laborious might it be to trace sires and dams in a consistent way? and a > cross of a cross could still in theory end up very close to the species > (like they're doing with the zebra/quaggas). > > Have you come across any unusual flavours? It was Alain who mentioned the > possibility of anise-type flavours - not that it appeals that much, but > maybe you have to taste it. After all, I very carefully tried mustard > ice-cream in a restaurant last week - and it was delicious! > > Regards. Subject: Bananas and Avocado Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 08:47:57 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: Nan Sterman Nan... I'm inclined to think weather and growing conditions determine when a banana will ripen. One would have to know the normal ripening time for a particular variety under the best growing conditions and plant a pup accordingly. As to avocado, have you tried Bacon or Stewart avocado? They will take the most cold. Eunice Messner Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com> From: Jeff Subject: Citrumelo / Citrandarin: How Do They Taste?? Date: Fri, Mar 3, 2000, 1:57 PM Hi, I am interested in citrumelos and Citrandarins. I've seen pictures of the fruit, but have never seen the fruit first hand. As a side note, I have not found Poncirus fruit to taste all that bad. But, I do like sour fruits like lemons. The only citrus type I've tasted that I don't particularly care for are the Lemandarins (otaheite oranges). But anyhow, I am curious as to what the Citrumelo and Citrandarin fruit tastes like?? Could someone on the list give their impression on the flavor/taste on each type. I've heard the bitterness of Poncirus is apparent in the hybrids, but each hybrid must have a certain flavor from the citrus parent. Thank you for your time. Jeff / www.the-banana.com mailto:jeffrey@the-banana.com Please write directly to Jeff, as he is not on the mailing list. Leo Subject: Re: Papaya/Thank you for the advice Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 17:08:34 -0500 From: Tiffaney Denise Pete To: Tina Siegel Thank you so much for the information! :) Tiffaney At 06:23 PM 3/5/00 -0800, you wrote: >Common Solo Payayas grow quite tall before producing fruit. This is why >I grow dwarfs. When my papayas are only 7 feet tall fruit is ripening >only 2 1/2 feet above the ground! Pacific Coast Tropicals has a website >where you can buy 2 types of dwarf seeds. I`ve had good luck with both, >but Honeydew seems to have a higher rate of germination. Good luck! >P.S. http://www.pctgardens.com/instock.html for Pacific Coast page Leo says: By the way, Pacific Coast Tropical Gardens - Menlo Park, CA is having a moving sale! http://www.pctgardens.com/Frame2.html Subject: Bananas Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:24:22 -0800 From: Holzinger, Bob To: Nan Sterman Hi Nan, Your question on which banana to plant to get ripe fruit by November implies that you want fruit on a schedule. I know of no banana in our So. California climate that will do that. The varieties with "good tasting fruit" all take at least 18 months from pup to fruit, so it depends on when the pup comes up. The cold you experience could be a problem, 30 degrees is a little cold, but if you have dwarf bananas then you could get some protection from other trees or structures. The two I like are Dwarf Brazilian and Haa Haa. They need no support (unlike Goldfinger), they pup like crazy and the small fruits are quite tasty. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Lychee Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 14:30:34 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: Gloria Gloria Because of our dry winter up to January and no flush of new growth before the blossoms came on, I am predicting a good year for Lychee. They need the stress of no water preceding bloom and then this cold snap we are having is stressing them again. So, I'm salivating already. Lychee are so tempermental in Southern California. But maybe one of these days we'll get the hang of it. Girdling sometimes helps as does misting the tree. Hope yours is blossoming now. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com> Subject: Papaya seeds Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 14:47:59 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: tiffaney@mindspring.com Tiffany Pete... Either way will work. If you plant the seeds right away you may leave the aril on. If you want to save seeds, then rub the aril off first. Papayas are subject to damp-off (dying at the soil level). Using a planting mix with spagnum peat moss in it helps to prevent it. Also I've been told a thin layer of sand on top of the pot helps. Remember when you set it out that they require excellent drainage. Keep your seedlings warm and on the dry side until the weather warms up. Happy growing, Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: Papaya seeds/Thanks Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 19:22:46 -0500 From: Tiffaney Denise Pete To: Eunice Messner Many thanks Eunice, as a matter of fact, I was out of the office for a week but I left behind a small pot w/some papaya seeds in it. To my surprise, one of the seeds has started to grow above the soil. It's sitting on top of my cubicle (which has direct access to a flourescent light above it). Unfortunately the seeds at my apt. have not grown as of yet. Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you posted! Tiffaney Pete mailto:tiffaney@mindspring.com Subject: "Canepa" Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 10:11:50 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Chris Hi Chris, I'm sure by now several people have emailed to tell you the fruit you ate in Puerto Rico, which the locals called "canepa", is also known as genip or mamoncillo. The scientific name is Melicoccus bijugatus. This fruit is grown in southern Florida, but most likely isn't available commercially. The trees are dioecious, so you will need a male and a female tree to get fruit of your own. Take care, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Canepa? Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 14:55:09 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: CRMSNTD@concentric.net Chris... You were eating genipa (Melicocca bijuga). Also known as Spanish lime. I brought back seeds from Jamaica, but it is not very happy in our subtropical weather. It does require a male and female plant. Good luck! Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com> Subject: Cultural information for fruits Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 14:56:07 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: John Ingram John Ingram, Have you been told about the California Rare Fruit Growers webpage ? Everything you need to know is posted there. Going to chapter meetings is also very helpful as you meet people in your climate zone who can relate experiences. I think it was the year 1998 that our Fruit Gardener magazine featured edible palms. You might order back issues. I hope you become famous for your inovative landscape designs. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com> Subject: Want Tart Crisp Jujube: What's Its Name? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 15:44:44 PST From: Beth Elliott Hi Leo & everyone! I have missed you. I have been gone but am back with a new e-ddress: bethelliottarts@hotmail.com Beth Elliott in San Pedro, Ca. I am growing 5-6 different varieties of bananas in my yard - 3 or which are in fruit now - one ready to harvest; a pineapple guava, some passion fruit, kiwi, rose apple, and kumquat. I am interested in planting jujube - the more tart & crisp one. Which variety is it? Look forward to hearing from everyone again. Beth Elliott mailto:bethelliottarts@hotmail.com ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: Santol's Tropical Fruit Home Page - Articles by Santol Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 17:54:41 -0800 http://www.gate.net/~santol/page3.html Bruce Livingston says: I have written an number of articles that find themselves published in various places, including the Broward County Rare Fruit & Vegetable Council Magazine. Many of my articles are re-printed here. I hope you find them interesting and informative. RULES-OF-THUMB - Santol's newest article, in which twenty good "rules-of-thumb" are presented. Following these rules will greatly enhance your success with tropical fruit plants, so don't miss it! TWO NEW FRUITS - Santol's article about two new fruits discovered in Thailand, the Gandaria and the Kaw-lahn. The Kaw-lahn is so new that, to date, Santol has not yet succeeded in finding it's botanical name. FIT FOR A KING - This article discusses some aspects of the importance of longans as a commercial fruit. ABOUT CULTIVARS - What is a cultivar anyhow, and why do we need them? Find out all kinds of information inside this new article by Santol. GREEN FRUIT - Can you actually enjoy eating unripe fruit? Read Santol's latest article and find out all about it. TROPICAL FRUIT TREE & NURSERY LIST - The latest list of tropical fruit plant nurseries in Florida, the U.S., and International SPACED OUT - How to fit over 150 tropical fruit plants into a 68 X 100 foot lot. BRING 'EM BACK - How to obtain a plant import permit, and how to find, collect, store, and successfully bring home live plants from foreign countries. BUGGED - An article dealing with both beneficial and pest insects. CITRUS CULTIVARS - A complete outline of citrus cultivars, and their characteristics, which are grown in Florida. IS MY FRUIT RIPE? - A short article that will help you determine when many tropical fruits are ripe and ready to be picked. WELCOME TO MY ECIOUS - This article deals with the differences between monoecious and dioecious plants, and details problems and what you can do about them. "FRUIT SALAD" TREES - An article dealing with multigrafted trees. MULTI GRAFTING - A follow-up article that goes well with the "Fruit Salad Trees" article. Don't miss either of them. GOING BANANAS - This article details many of the major leading banana cultivars, including the Cavendish bananas, dessert bananas, cooking bananas and plantains, and ornamental bananas. NEW JAK FRUIT, SAPODILLA AND ATEMOYA CULTIVARS - Catch up on the latest new introductions and selections from two of the world's leading experts, Dr. Richard Campbell and Har Mahdeem. A BIT TOO MULCH - All about mulch and its benefits. A couple of good stories are included in this article. You might even want to argue with me about my personal opinion of organic fruits and vegetables. MYRTACEAE - Find out about some of the fabulous fruits in this plant family, including many of the Eugenia species. PLANT IT WHERE? - How to determine the best location to plant new trees, and how to avoid potential disasters if you select incorrectly. NOT IN THE NURSERIES - An article all about fruit trees that you won't find in nurseries. This article describes them, includes a story or two, and lets you know where to get them. A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME - An article dealing with the common confusion caused by misuse of cultivar names. Subject: Australian New Crop Web Site additions Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 06:32:33 +1000 From: Dr Rob Fletcher Organization: The University of Queensland To: newcrops@purdue.edu Colleagues, For your interest, we have mounted a copy of the Listing of Potential New Crops for Australia on the Australian New Crops Web Site at: http://www.newcrops.uq.edu.au Hard copies are still available and details are included in the site as well. Should you find any errors, please let us know. Many thanks, Dr Rob Fletcher Here's a jumble of Epiphyllum, Hylocereus, and Cactus Fruit Sites: Subject: Jim Hunter's Epi Universe http://www.epiuniverse.com/ Subject: Sources For Epiphyllum Cuttings http://surfnfax.com/epi/sources.htm Subject: San Diego Ephiphyllum Society - Taking care of this interesting plant http://surfnfax.com/epi/epicare.htm Subject: Epiphyllum/Orchid Cactus - Glenn's Epi page http://web.missouri.edu/~extgrice/nbc/ Subject: Epiphyllum - Edible fruit crop grown in fields in Mexico?? http://www.countrylife.net/ethnobotany/postings/20728.html Posted by David Nicholls on February 08, 1998 at 1:40 pm EST: Many if not all Epiphyllum fruit (tree dwelling (usually) cacti) are concidered edible. They seem to have had little or no attention from horticulturists, food gardeners. They seem like one of the tastier and more interesting possiblilities as an understory crop, as they are very shade tolerant. I've planted a few outside in Wellington, New Zealand, a temperate climate, they have grown reasonably fast and flowered (no fruit yet) so high heat may not be essential. My question is: Has anyone seen or heard of Epiphyllum being grown in fields for their fruit in Mexico? I have only seen one passing (but authoritative) reference to this (Buxbaum 1958 Cactus Culture). Ethnobotony of Mexican Cacti is comparatively thorough, seems strange this would be the only reference to it if it is accurate. Perhaps it was grown once but no more, would be very interested to hear from anyone who can help me here, or knows anything else about local uses of Epiphylla Subject: Ethnolinks http://countrylife.net/ethnobotany/ethnolinks.html Subject: Epiphyllum http://www.sierratel.com/tses/epiphyllum.html Subject: recipes cactus, etc http://www.sierratel.com/tses/page3.html Subject: Smithsonian Catalog of Botanical Illustrations - Hylocereus http://www.nmnh.si.edu/botart/hylocere.htm Subject: Climbing and Columnar Cacti: New Arid Land Fruit Crops http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/proceedings1999/v4-358.html#climbing Mizrahi, Y. and A. Nerd. 1999. Climbing and columnar cacti: New arid land fruit crops. p. 358Ð366. In: J. Janick (ed.), Perspectives on new crops and new uses. ASHS Press, Alexandria, VA. Climbing and Columnar Cacti: New Arid Land Fruit Crops Yosef Mizrahi and Avinoam Nerd* 1. CLIMBING (EPIPHYTIC) CACTI 1.Taxonomy 2.Horticulture 3.Commercialization and Marketing 2. THE COLUMNAR CACTUS, CEREUS PERUVIANUS 1.Origin and Taxonomy 2.Horticulture 3.Commercialization and Marketing 3.SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 4.REFERENCES In Israel, scarcity of water, high input prices, and market competition limit the number of orchard crops that can be grown profitably. Our approach to the further development of the horticultural industry in the dry regions of IsraelÜthe Negev and Judean desertsÜis thus to establish new crops that will demand high prices in the export markets (Mizrahi and Nerd 1996). To this end, about 40 species of rare or wild fruit trees were introduced by us into these dry regions in a number of locations that differed in terms of soil, water, and climate (Nerd et al. 1990; Mizrahi and Nerd 1996). Emphasis was placed on candidates of the Cactaceae because of their high water-use efficiency (5Ð10 times higher than that of most conventional crops), resulting in low water requirement (Nobel 1988, 1994). The high water-use efficiency of cacti is provided by their unique photosynthetic pathwayÜcrassulacean acid metabolism (CAM). In CAM plants, the stomata open and CO2 uptake takes place during the night when evaporation is low. Among the Cactaceae, there are about 35 species that have a potential for cultivation as fruit, vegetable, or forage crop species (Nobel 1994; Mizrahi et al. 1997). Starting in 1984, we have introduced, for investigation as potential crop species, 17 members of the subfamily Cactoidae (Nerd et al. 1990; Mizrahi and Nerd 1996). Among these, four climbing (epiphytic) species and one columnar species have already been planted as commercial crops, and their fruits are being exported successfully to European markets as exotic fruits from Israel. The main reasons that these crops have made their way onto the market within so short a time after introduction are their precocious early yielding (three to four years after seeding or one to three years after propagation from cuttings) and their acceptability in the markets. At present, our studies are aimed at examining the environmental adaptations of the species and their reproductive biology mode and at developing appropriate agrotechnological practices. In addition, a breeding program accompanied by cytological and molecular studies is being carried out in order to develop improved clones for cultivation. This review is divided into two parts. The first part deals with the climbing cacti of the genera Selenicereus and Hylocereus and the other with the columnar cactus Cereus peruvianus. CLIMBING (EPIPHYTIC) CACTI Taxonomy We collected wild or cultivated types of climbing cacti from a variety of sourcesÜamateur cactus lovers, growers, botanical gardens, and backyards. We very soon realized that there is tremendous confusion about the taxonomic identity of these cacti: accessions with the same name were found to be of different species. We are currently applying cytological and molecular techniques to determine the proper taxonomic identities of the species that we have introduced (Lichtenzveig 1997). These species belong to at least to two different genera, Selenicereus and Hylocereus. From the genus Selenicereus we will elaborate here only on one species S. megalanthus, currently grown in Israel and in Colombia, where it is known as yellow pitaya (Hunt 1989; Barthlott and Hunt 1993), Accessions of S. megalanthus were introduced by us as H. triangularis or H. undatus and were later classified as S. megalanthus (Weiss et al. 1995; Mizrahi et al. 1997). We have 37 selected clones from this species. From the genus Hylocereus, we have introduced the following species, some with a number of clones (Table 1): H. undatus, H. polyrhizus, H. purpusii, H. ocamponis, and H. costaricensis (Britton and Rose 1963; Barthlott and Hunt 1993). In addition, we have introduced some promising unidentified clones of Hylocereus (Hylocereus sp.), the best of which was designated as 10487. Of these species, only the ones that are currently being grown in Israel for export are described in this paper, as follows: H. undatus, H. polyrhizus, and Hylocereus sp. The later two species are not cultivated any where else in the world to the best of our knowledge. Some of these and other species are grown elsewhere: H. costaricensis, (several commercial clones) as grown in Nicaragua (known as red pitaya); H. undatus, in Mexico (known as pitahaya), in other Latin American countries (known as pitaya), in Vietnam (known as dragon pearl fruit or thang loy) (Mizrahi et al. 1997), and according to colleagues there, in Guatemala. Table 1. Species of the crawling cacti Hylocereus and Selenicereus introduced by Ben-Gurion University of the Negev Species-------------------No. Clones Introduced--Grown Commercially H. costaricensis (Weber) Britton & Rose----1 H. ocamponis (Salm-Dyck) Britton & Rose----1 H. polyrhizus Weber------------------------7--------2 H. purpusii Weingart-----------------------1 Hylocereus sp. 8--------2 H. undatus (Haworth) Briton & Rose--------27--------3 S. megalanthus (Schum.) Britton & Rose----37--------6 Total-------------------------------------82-------13 Horticulture At the beginning of our program, there was very little information available in the scientific literature on cultivation and biological background of these cacti. This information was mainly in Spanish in the form of hard-to-get dissertations and professional brochures (Mizrahi et al. 1997). We thus set out to investigate both horticultural and physiological aspects of climbing cacti and the results of our studies have been published in the professional literature, as follows: reproductive biology (Weiss et al. 1991, 1994a,b; Nerd and Mizrahi 1997), shading requirements (Raveh et al. 1993, 1996, 1998), and fruit development, ripening, and post-harvest handling (Nerd and Mizrahi 1998, 1999). Here, we will summarize some of the results and give details of new unpublished data to provide an up-to-date picture of the state-of-the-art know-how and marketing. Light tolerance. The climbing cacti originate in shady habitats of subtropical and tropical America. In Israel, the canopy suffers from bleaching and die back when these species are grown outdoors as a result of the intensive irradiation (noon photosynthetic photon flux densities can reach as much as 2200 mmol photons m-2 s-1). Our studies showed that for optimal development they have to be planted in nethouses and the required shade level (ranging between 30Ð60%) depends on the particular species as well as on the location (Fig. 1) (Raveh et al. 1996, 1998). H. polyrhizus and H. costaricensis are the most light tolerant, probably because of their unique skin characteristics (a wax cover and a thick skin). The radiation stress is exacerbated by high temperatures, as discussed below. Temperature tolerance. Sub-freezing temperatures damage the climbing cacti, and for most species 0¡C is the minimal threshold for cultivation. Among the investigated species, Hylocereus sp. (10487) was the most sensitive to low temperatures and suffered cold injury when the temperature fell below 4¡C. In the areas of the Negev with low night temperatures, the climbing cacti have to be cultivated in plastic- or glass-houses. Symptoms of cold injury are round lesions that expand along the stems. Plants recover easily when temperature increases. Reproductive biology. Studies on the reproductive biology of these cacti, including the work of Weiss et al. (1994a,b) on flowering and pollination, have previously been reviewed by us (Nerd and Mizrahi 1997). The results may be summarized as follows: Flowers are nocturnal and open only once. All species, with the exception of S. megalanthus, are self-incompatible and thus require cross pollination. Due to a lack of local pollinators in Israel, hand pollination is necessary to obtain fruits; this factor results in a tremendous increase in labor costs for the producers. All tested species were able to pollinate each other, and some pollinators produced bigger fruits than others. The fruits develop from both the ovary (pulp) and the receptacle that surrounds the ovary (peel). The weight of the fruit correlates with the number of seeds (Weiss et al. 1994; Nerd and Mizrahi 1997), and with proper pollination the weight of Hylocereus fruits can reach about 800 g and that of S. megalanthus fruits, about 350 g. The Hylocereus species flower in waves, each wave lasting about one week, and hence ripening also occurs in waves. The number of waves varies among the genera species and clonesÜfrom one to eight per season. This characteristic creates marketing problems: the fruits are available on the markets in short waves, whereas the buyers want them spread out evenly over longer periods. Some species produce flowers continuously, and hence fruits are available throughout the season from June to December (Fig. 5Ð7), which is highly desirable for the fresh-fruit market. We have already produced hybrids between this continuously flowering species (Hylocereus sp. clone 10487) and others with two- three waves of flowering (e.g., H. undatus clone 88-027), but these hybrids have not yet started to flower. Studies are underway in an attempt to solve this problem. All clones of S. megalanthus are tetraploids; they flower mainly in the autumn, and they are self-compatible (Weiss et al. 1994; Lichtenzveig 1997). The time elapsing between flowering and ripening is about 30 days for the Hylocereus species, and that for and S. megalanthus is 90 and 180 days for the early (late Sept.) and late flowers (late Nov.), respectively (Nerd and Mizrahi 1998). This means that ripe fruits of the Hylocereus species may be ready for marketing from late May to early Jan. while those of S. megalanthus are available from Jan. to mid-May. Fruit ripening and post-harvest behavior. Some ripening characteristics have already been determined for a number of species, but studies on ripening and post-harvest behavior are still under way (Nerd and Mizrahi 1998, 1999). In general, the fruits are non-climacteric and are sensitive to chilling injury. They may be stored for 10 days at room temperature if the proper maturation stage had been reached before harvest. Irrigation and fertilization. To date, no systematic research has been performed on irrigation and fertilization requirements. In the meantime, we recommend that the climbing cacti be irrigated with 150 mm water/year and fertilized with 35 ppm N from 23N-7P-23K fertilizer. Some farmers use their own formulas and may irrigate with as much as 250 mm/year. Some preliminary experiments have demonstrated large differences among species in response to water regimes. In a research project for undergraduate students in the Department of Life Sciences of Ben-Gurion University, Mr. A'ssa'el Ram found that H. polyrhizus exhibited the greatest tolerance to lack of irrigation (drought treatments) and S. megalanthus the least, with H. undatus falling between the two extremes. These findings were paralleled by the tolerance of the three species to high photon flux densities (Raveh et al. 1996, 1998), the tolerance being related to the xeromorphic traits of the species as follows: H. polyrhizus has wax layer over the "skin," the stomata are sunk into the epidermis, and the stem tissue contains a considerable volume of parenchyma; H. undatus has similar characteristics but lacks the wax layer; and S. megalanthus has no parenchyma, no sunken stomata and no wax layer and is thus most sensitive to water deprivation. This "drought experiment" was performed over a short period (three months in winter), and the findings should be confirmed in a long-term experiment, since these three species of cactus are perennials. An understanding of the effect of water regimes on fruiting and fruit quality is obviously of the utmost importance. Pests and diseases. To date, no significant problems of pests or diseases have arisen. In areas with high relative humidity during the day (around 65%), some black knot may develop on fruits of H. polyrhizus, which excrete sugars (glucose, fructose, and sucrose) from the scales at the fruit tip. Ants are occasionally found on the fruits, fruits buds, and stems (which also excrete sugars), but no major damage has been found. Commercialization and Marketing There are also horticultural problems that are still to be solved. Ways have to be found to manipulate the cacti to flower throughout the season, rather than in two or three waves, leaving most of the season without fruitsÜa major hurdle to successful marketing. At present, the crop is pollinated by hand, both the extraction of pollen and the cross pollination process itself being laborious and expensive. The development of pollen storage techniques and the subsequent creation of a pollen bank would solve the problem of the lack of proper pollen during the flowering period. In some species, taste should be improved. The long-term effects of environmental conditions, including irrigation and fertilization, have not yet been studied. Nothing is known about pruning and shaping of the plants, and the trellis system requires optimization, since such systems are quite expensive, the currently used one costing $12,800/acre. Breeding is also an important issue and is probably an easily achievable aim, since all existing clones are simply wild types awaiting genetic manipulation. THE COLUMNAR CACTUS, CEREUS PERUVIANUS Origin and Taxonomy We introduced seven species of columnar cacti of three genera, Pachycereus, Stenocereus, and Cereus. Among these, C. peruvianus (Britton and Rose, 1963) appeared to be most promising in terms of its rapid growth and precocious early yielding (Nerd et al., 1993; Weiss et al., 1993). C. peruvianus is not known in the wild and is always found as a planted ornamental (Nerd and Mizrahi, 1997). Dr. Leiah Scheinvar, a cactus taxonomist from the National University of Mexico (UNAM), drew our attention to the similarity between this species and C. jamacaru, which is native to the north-east of Brazil. Dr. Scheinvar thought it likely that the two were identical, and our recent study in Brazil supported this idea. However, seedlings raised by us from seeds of C. jamacaru obtained from Brazil exhibited some morphological traits different from those of C. peruvianus (Fig. 8). Studies are now being performed by us to determine the relationship between the two species, since C. jamacaru may be an important candidate for domestication and/or for breeding C. peruvianus. The first accession of C. peruvianus seeds was sent to us from Camarillo (southern California) by Mr. Ron Kadish, who collected the seeds from private gardens. C. peruvianus has already attracted attention in the US as a potential fruit-crop. The species, known as apple cactus, is mentioned in the excellent book of the late J. Morton, entitled Fruits of Warm Climates (Morton 1987). However, to date, the only research and development on this species is that performed in Israel by our group (Mizrahi et al. 1997), as described below. Horticulture C. peruvianus is a precocious yielder from an early ageÜthree to five years from seeds and two to three years from cuttings. The flower is nocturnal, and since it is self-incompatible, requires cross pollination. Clones should be mixed together in the orchard to guarantee pollination and fruit set. Pollination is performed by the honey bee Aphis mellifera, which is active during the day-time in the early and late hours of the flower opening. Low temperatures of Ð6 to Ð7¡C resulted in significant damage to the plants, and these temperatures can thus be considered as minimum low for cultivation. We did not notice any damage from temperatures as high as 45¡C. Water use is low, being 150 mm/year, as expected from cacti. The species is sensitive to salinity particularly when Na and Cl are the main salinity ions. Higher than normal concentrations of Ca, Mg and sulfates cause long-term damage, which precludes cultivation of C. peruvianus under salinity of 4 dS/m. The effect of low salinity (2.5 dS/m) on this crop is currently being tested. Approximately 30 days elapse from anthesis to ripening. Fruits have to be harvested for marketing at the stage at which the peel becomes smooth and fully colored. Fruits harvested prior to this stage (a very common mistake) have an inferior taste and do not ripen properly in storage. The fruit is nonclimacteric and can be stored for 14 days provided that it is harvested at the proper stage of ripening (Wang 1997). Breeding is now in progress from seeds of known parents. We have several thousand seedlings in our orchards from which to select the future cultivars. Orchards for this species are much cheaper to establish and maintain than those for the crawling cacti described above. Needless to say, the findings described above are only the beginning of the R&D required to bring this species to the stage at which it will be a fully exploited crop. Commercialization and Marketing SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS ... Among these species, two cactiÜone climbing and the other columnar, have already made their way on to the European market. Two genera of climbing cacti from tropical and subtropical shady habitatsÜSelenicereus and HylocereusÜwere introduced and are being grown either in greenhouses to prevent exposure to subfreezing temperatures or in shade-houses to prevent damage by high photon flux densities. These cacti are S. megalanthus (known in Colombia as yellow pitaya) and H. undatus, H. polyrhizus, and an unidentified species Hylocereus, all known as red pitayas. The fruit of the latter three species was sold, under the name of Eden fruit, in local Israeli markets and exported to Europe for the first time in 1996. Total yields exported were 10 and 25 t in 1996 and 1997, respectively, with the fruit commanding the highest prices ever obtained from fruits exported from Israel. To enable efficient production, studies of all aspects of horticulture, including agromanagement and breeding, being carried out at Ben-Gurion University. Cereus peruvianus, a columnar cactus grown outdoors, went through a similar process of domestication. REFERENCES ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ Subject: Re: Musa Basjoo Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 08:10:25 +0000 From: Dave Poole Reply-To: zingiber@onelist.com Ben de Witte wrote: >does anyone whether the bananas of Musa basjoo are edible are not? Do they taste bad or are they poisonous? And other info about this plant. Ben, The fruits of M basjoo are inedible on account of their tough, rather dry, fibrous nature and virtual lack of any sweetness or flavour. It is possibly the hardiest of all Musa species with a 'pseudo-trunk' tolerance of around minus 5C and overall tolerance to around minus 15C. At the lower temperatures the plant acts like an herbaceous perennial, completely dying back to the roots each winter and regrowing from the underground rhizome each spring. In order to get flowers, M. basjoo must have its 'stem' protected in cool areas since the incipient flower bud usually commences to grow up through the enfolding leaf sheathes ('stem') during late autumn/early winter prior to flowering. As with any Musa species, it thrives in a well drained, slightly acid soil that has been heavily manured. Masses of water and additional liquid feeds on a regular basis in summer, will promote very rapid growth. This species is slightly less tolerant of extreme summer heat than its more tropical relatives and growth tends to slow down at 30C and above. The ideal temperature range appears to be between 18 - 28C. although it will make commence growing at 10 - 12C. HTH Dave Poole mailto:dave-poole@ilsham.demon.co.uk TORQUAY UK ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ None this time -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- From: Julian Garcia Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Subject: Mango brown leaf *911 Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 02:56:52 -0500 (EST) My Carrie mango seems to have suddenly developed brown leaves throughout all but one small branch over the past 2 weeks or less (just noticed today) and the leaves are uniformly tan-brown except for a small green portion (<10% of each leaf) near each stem. It has been raining quite a bit over the past month here in the los angeles area and I suspect the cold damp soil may be responsible...Or it may be the poor drainage from the surrounding clay soil. I do not see any gopher holes near the trunk although they've been active in my yard as well. This mango produced a few small fruits last summer but they split wide open when only 3-4inches long. Pollination problem? If drainage is the problem...Any suggestion on when to replant/salvage this tree...Should I wait for warmer weather or will replanting now be fine despite the 65 high/45 low weather? Would copper sulfate be of any help to control possible root fungal problems in the meantime? Help! Julian mailto:jagjag@pol.net Subject: Re: mango brown leaf *911 Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 11:11:30 -0500 From: Bob Cannon Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Julian, Sounds like a fungus (Anthracnose?) you might check with the county agent. A copper spray could not hurt. Best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:tfnews@gate.net http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Re: GENETIC DWARF PEACHES Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 00:01:01 -0800 (PST) From: EJG@webtv.net (Joyce Greenlund) Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com You mean to say that Bonanza is actually an old favorite? News to me. We had one when we lived in Camarillo years ago. I loved the blossoms but on a scale of l-10, I rated the fruit minus one. Quality, that is. It did have plenty of peaches but we could not eat them. Three years ago I bought a Honey Babe miniature (zaiger) from Green Thumb which had half a dozen fruit on it in a five gallon can and we thought they were delicious. It is a yellow freestone. I must have a bad soil condition because the tree has not grown any in three years, hence, has set no more fruit. Because it has just sat there, I have not pruned it either. Think I will go up and prune it tomorrow. The fruit was very large for the size of the tree. And I have just decided to trsf it to a 32 gal pot. Joyce Greenlund mailto:EJG@webtv.net Subject: PROSEA Handbook Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 08:30:33 -0800 From: Sven Merten Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi everyone, Does anyone have a copy of the second volume of the PROSEA handbook on fruits and nuts? What do you think of it? I would like to get a copy, but the $150 price is a little too much to spend without being sure it is a very useful book. I wish I could buy the soft cover version, but it is only for developing countries. You can find info on the web at http://www.agralin.nl/prosea/prosea2.html. Thanks. Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Subject: Re: PROSEA Handbook Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 12:01:41 -0500 From: Barry & Margarita Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Sven For those looking, the prices are as follows. You do have the ability to buy the medium priced edition. ISBN 90-220-0986-6 (hardbound). 1991. Price: Ù 300 / US$ 167 ISBN 979-8316-02-9 (medium-price edition). 1992. Price: Ù 108 / 60 ISBN 979-8316-02-9 (low-price edition). 1992. Price: ca US$ 18 The hardbound edition and the paperback medium-price edition (available 2 years after the appearance of the hardbound edition) are available for all countries through Backhuys Publishers, via his mail address: P.O. Box 321, 2300 AH Leiden, the Netherlands. By the way, does anyone know what the difference in these editions may be? Also, the 1st eight volumes of their publications is on CD-ROM for $390!!!! I wrote amazon.com to see what their price may be. I don't expect much as the hardbound version listed above for $167, amazon lists for $200 and Barnes and Nobles lists for $205! Barry & Margarita mailto:bmn@iglou.com Subject: Mangos - In Pots - Root Pruned Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 12:01:39 -0800 From: "William Butler" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com I have grown several from supermarket seed and they reached a height of about 4 to 5 feet. After my move to Seattle I lost about everything I was growing, including my mangos. I'm in the process of starting over. I have a friend in granada hills who fruits mangos in a large container. He cuts off the tap root and forces the root system to become real fiberous.His trees are about 4 to 5 feet and loaded with mangos. Most plants can be fruited if one tries hard enough. Good Growing Everyone William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Mangos - In Pots - Root Pruned Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 08:14:44 -0800 From: "William Butler" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com I believe that he cut the mangoes tap root from a tree in a 5 gallon container. I do remember that it was an Edward variety. When I saw the tree it was in either a 15 or 20 gallon pot. Also he uses organic methods of fertilizing. He keeps a schedule on when to feed and what he's using and how much of each product. It has payed off for him as he has fruited alot of the tropicals. I saw a sapodilla that he had in a 15 gallon can and it had fruit on it. It is a lot of fun to grow these plants out of their natural environment. Best of luck to you all on your mangoes William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Coffee Plant Food (For Miracle Fruit, Also) Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 08:23:51 -0800 From: "William Butler" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com I have seen the coffee plant grown and producing beans in southern California. The particular plants that I have seen have all been outside under shade cloth about 55% shade cloth, some were in the ground while others were in containers. I believe they were fed with cottonseed meal. This was the method for Miracle Fruit as well. I have always used Miracle Grow 15-30-15 on my coffee plants they grow rather fast with this, and I plant them in straight peat moss with a little perlite. Remember in the tropics coffee is an understory tree requiring shade. Best of luck to you all on your coffee plants William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Re: coffee plant Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 14:24:38 EST From: KahiwaL@cs.com Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com William I'm wondering, are you planting any particular variety of coffee? How about any other growers, are you? I have decided to grow some coffee for home use and possibly some commercial. We're planning on intercropping coffee, 'awa (kava), and citrus in a declining, but hopefully, rejuvenated by some heavy, periodic pruning, macadamia nut orchard on 3 acres at 1800 feet here in Hawaii. I have gotten interested, not only in the local "Kona" variety (?), but in Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee. Looking for other gourmet coffee possibilities. Any ideas? In fact, last night ordered a book, from http://echonet.org/shopsite_sc/store/html/Tropicalagriculture.html Coffee Growing $17.00 H. R. Cambrony 1992 Describes the basic botany of the coffee plant and how to grow it in a variety of African Zones and farming systems, with reference to other tropical areas. All the practical growing techniques are given in detail. There is an extensive section on pests and diseases, and a final section on harvesting. Process and production are not covered. 119 pages, paperback, shipping weight 0.37 pounds Good growing to you all from the Big Island (Hawaii) Clarence mailto:KahiwaL@cs.com Subject: coffee plants Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:24:03 -0800 From: "William Butler" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Clarence, first of all I am currently living in Visalia, California that is about 30 miles south of Fresno. During the time I was growing this and everything else I had a greenhouse that I would over-winter all my plants in. I would usually bring them into the greenhouse around late Oct. to mid November and set them out in the spring usually after St. Patricks day. I was growing them in 5 gallon pots using straight peat mixed with perlite they seemed to really do well in this mix. And grew like weeds when I fed them with Miracle Grow. I have no doubt that they would have fruited for me if I had stayed in Calif. But when I moved to Seattle I lost just about all my plants. Now I'm in the beginning stages of growing these treasures. My hope is to start a small back yard nursery and supply some rare things mail order. I received the no-caffeine coffee seed from the Calif. Rare fruit growers seed bank that's been about 3 years ago, and I'm not sure where they got the seed from. I would love to find a seed source for some of these plants and would really like to find some seed for the pitomba. Thanks for the tips on the tea plants I'm going to try again. The university research station at Parlier Ca. Was growing and testing tea for awhile and found 3 varieties that do well in our valley. Well I got to run for now but I'll talk to you later. William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Re: Mango tree tap root (And, Polyembryonic Mango Seedlings) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 12:09:10 +0800 From: Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Console IIci wrote: > > > I would guess that in the long run direct planting would succeed and might > produce bigger trees. The current trend near me is to smaller trees as > they require less labour to harvest. Thanks Bob for your help, so would I be correct to say that cutting the tap root of a tree tends to dwarf it? I hope so, because I have a lucmo, canistel, sapodilla, matisia, caimito and others in pots waiting to be transplanted into my back yard and I want to keep them smallish and managable. Am a bit apprehensive they will all grow into large unmanagable trees. Do you think that careful pruning of their tap roots at transplanting will help to keep the trees smaller and more managable? > As to your Kensington Pride, if the seed was truly polyembryonic you > should end up with a good tree. If the seed is the result of > pollination then you may end up with a new variety and at worse a > healthy root stock for grafting. > Experimenting is fun. > Best of growing, > Bob Have heard contradictory statements on which of the shoots in polyembryonic seeds are the sexual ones and which are derived from the nucellus (mother tissue). According to http://www.agric.wa.gov.au/agency/Pubns/farmnote/1987/f06687.htm:- "Poly-embryonic seeds produce a number of shoots, one of which originates from fertilisation. The remainder will have been derived from the nucellus (mother tissue) without fertilisation. These will produce seedlings true-to-type and resemble the mother tree in every way. The fertilised seedling is often weak, and stunted". Yet a fax from a Queensland mango grower sent to a local nursery, stated the exact opposite. It said the the most vigorous shoot was the sexual shoot and the less vigorous shoots were the cloned ones! Can you or anyone varify which is really what? Thanks again. Greg Woolley mailto:gregw@amitar.com.au Ê Subject: Re: Mango tree tap root (And, Polyembryonic Mango Seedlings) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 04:23:30 PST From: "W C" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Greg, Chances are they are both right! The one that is "different" from the others is most likely the fertilized one. However, there is no guarantee with either. Even the "experts", ie. those that do it for a living, are surprised occasionally. Even if cutting the tap root doesn't produce the results you desire, you can keep most trees pruned to a reasonable size. It is a bit labor intensive sometimes, but I think it is worth the effort if you don't have much room. Or you can try grafting related species on to one another. Good luck, Warren C mailto:wpc728@hotmail.com Subject: Re: Mango tree pruning - Tree Wants Say In Size! Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 03:42:15 -0500 (EST) From: Julian Garcia Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Speaking of pruning mango trees...My father had a mango tree in the backyard that planted and was very productive the first 5-10 years....But as it grew to large he would severely prune it and then the tree seemed to spend all its energy trying to reestablish its pre-pruning size without bearing much if any fruit. A few years later it would regain its size and he would again drastically prune it down to large branches...This went on in few year cycles with the tree all along no longer bearing even 5% of it's potential crop....Until he finally got tired of raking the leaves and pruning this unproductive tree and just had it cut to the ground. He had a lychee tree that suffered a similar fate after years of unproductive uncontrolled growth following pruning after a large crop. It seemed that these trees would spend their energy restoring a canopy size to match the large root system they had developed prior to pruning and simply would not bear fruit until they had regrown all that had been pruned before and then some. Would cutting back the roots have helped limit the growth spurt and increased fruiting? (This was in the south Florida area where tropical trees grow quite fast vs. southern California where they seem to grow half or even 1/3 as fast!) Julian Garcia mailto:jagjag@pol.net Subject: Apricot Root Containment? Date: 14 Mar 00 19:38:10 PST From: Bill Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Leo said: > A friend told me twenty years about using a fine mesh galvanized screen- I believe it's sometimes called hardware cloth-to make a basket in which he planted fruit trees. He said that it not only kept gophers away from the roots, but that it significantly reduced the size of the mature tree. Leo ---------------- This is a good topic! I have a neighbor who lost two ornamental cherries from probably a pocket gopher, but perhaps a mole. Sound like an outdoor "bonzai." They killed a recent apricot which was small but they claimed the roots were too invasive. We do seem to have a geological formation of 2-3" of gravel-like rock wite-w/yellow touches, about 12-18" dow. Darn near water impervious. Hard, but crumbly non-crystaline structure. This will help me two ways... control roots, and gophers. I read they go 18" deep. Wonder IF I am safe with 2" wide stuff, or they will follow the obstacle down 6" more. Will have to see if 30" is available... But do gophers and moles go for apricot? Or just cherry is a favorite? It seems it followed a path, that would have made the apricot next, but now we will never know. As to hole size of the (yes, it is called) hardware cloth, there are many. I read Leo's friend said the bags' holes are 1-3mm? That is tiny. 1/2" (1.25cm) will retard pocket gophers. There is an aviary-like hex stuff made for this, even in basket form, which is about a 5/8 or 3/4 hole, and tougher thar aviary wires. With 1/2 or 3/8 or 1/4" mesh. (1.25, 0.95 or 0.65cm) what distance from the trunk should I use (minimm or optimum) to get what degree of dwarfing, on an apricot? (I am on a 50x100 lot.) I will accept theories. Specific to Apricot, or general. Just tell me which, please. SF CA area/USDA 9.4973, 69% Sun, but rarely warm... Bill mailto:OOWON@netscape.net -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: New Fruit Coatings Help Abate Post-Harvest Fruit Decay Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:39:51 -0500 From: Jesœs Garc’a The shine that helps fruits glisten at the local produce stand may soon be only the most visible manifestation of a more natural way to preserve fruit-34 million tons harvested in the U.S. in 1998-while on its way to market. Agricultural Research Service scientists and cooperators have developed fruit coatings made from reformulated shellac and sucrose ester, a compound derived from combining sugar with a fatty acid. These biocontrol coatings help maintain quality by promoting the growth of beneficial bacterial and yeast populations naturally on the fruit. The research is part of a continuing effort to decrease fruit producers' reliance on chemicals to delay post-harvest decay. The chemicals traditionally used to preserve harvested fruit-imazalil, which costs $1,000 per liter, and thiabendazol for Florida grapefruit-have been found to kill beneficial bacterial and yeast populations. These populations help maintain fruit quality by competing more efficiently than pathogens for nutrients, such as sugars and proteins, at a critical early stage in the pathogen's development. In essence, these beneficial bacteria and yeasts starve the pathogens that would otherwise feast on the fruit nutrients and cause decay. Raymond McGuire at ARS' Subtropical Horticulture Research Station in Miami, Fla., and cooperators from Mantrose Haeuser Co Inc. of Westport, Conn., have also tested both reformulated shellac and sucrose ester coatings for their ability to reduce the development of off-flavors caused by the buildup of ethanol. Preliminary test results on grapefruit indicate that both the reformulated shellac and, to a larger extent, sucrose ester coatings prevented off-flavors by allowing for a better exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide than commercial chemicals permit. ARS is the chief research agency of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Subject: Environmentally Friendly Insecticides Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 09:32:56 -0500 From: Judy McBride Environmentally friendly insecticides--an oxymoron? Not these sugar esters tested by Agricultural Research Service and university entomologists around the country. They're lethal to mites and soft-bodied insects--whiteflies, aphids, thrips and pear psylla--almost instantly after contact. Then Mother Nature takes over, degrading the esters into harmless sugars and fatty acids. And they do little harm to insect predators and are completely nontoxic to animals and people. In fact, some are approved as food-grade safe. AVA Chemical Ventures of Portsmouth, N.H., and ARS recently applied for a patent on the sugar esters. AVA hopes to have the first of these compounds on the market by the end of this year, pending registration with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The sugar esters can kill up to 100 percent of the soft-bodied insects and mites they contact. And insects are not expected to develop resistance any time soon because of the way the esters work, according to ARS entomologist Gary Puterka at the agency's Appalachian Fruit Research Station in Kearneysville, W.Va. Puterka coordinated the studies nationwide and is co-inventor on the new patent. Throughout four years of tests, the sugar esters have been more--or as-- effective as conventional insecticides against mites and aphids in apple orchards; psylla in pear orchards; whiteflies, thrips and mites on vegetables; and whiteflies on cotton. Pear psylla have become resistant even to newer insecticides, according to Puterka, and mites are becoming resistant. The drawbacks: The esters must come into contact with the insect to be effective, and they don't kill insect eggs. Like insecticidal soaps, sugar esters kill insects by either suffocating them or by dissolving the waxy coating that protects them from drying environments. The concept of using sugar esters as an environmentally friendly insect control started about 10 years ago when ARS scientists in Beltsville, Md., found that the leaf hairs of wild tobacco plants exuded a sugar ester to defend itself against insects and other arthropods. >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - March 15, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - April 1, 2000 - AKA RFN200004A.txt --Notes In Passing 1. Look at the unusual residences of the new subscribers: Russia, France, Colorado, Louisiana, and Pennsylvania. 2. I'm looking for cutting(s) of selenicereus megalanthus (Pitaya Amarilla.) Do you know of a southern California place where I could buy (or trade for) them? In the meantime, I'm getting seeds to try to germinate and grow, but I'd like to get cuttings, also. 3. The last mango (and the only one on my young Nam Doc Mai) fell off the tree this week, but it's still hard and only very slightly colored yellow. Is this normal? ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, Rubstovsk, Russia, Wants To Grow Rare Fruit In Pots.... Alex Kolodejny New Subscriber - Alsace, France - Wants To Know About Hardy Citrus And Other Rare Fruit Philippe Rothgerber Rare Fruit News Online Information Rothgerber Philippe New Subscriber, Colorado, Interested In Whatever Will Grow Hers Dale Langford New Subscriber, Louisiana, Already Growing Bananas, Guavas, Papayas.... Nancy Rowe New Subscriber, PA, Growing Kumquat, Key Lime, White Sapote, Cherimoya,... Dan Sorensen New Subscriber, West Chester, PA, Has Kiwis, Figs, Pawpaws, Citrus.... Roger E. Bove --Readers Write Canepa Juan A. Rivero Hoax... Bananas, With Necrotizing Fasciitis (Flesh-Eating Bacteria) Douglas Lee Schales Pitaya Amarilla: Germination Roy Dynan Growing Passionfruit Incarnata In Russia - Question Alex Kolodejny Re: Growing Passionfruit Incarnata In Russia - Question Holzinger, Bob To: Alex Sapodilla, Mamey sapote, Star apple - In Southern California? Matthew Shugart Moringa Oleifera in Los Angeles Times Gladys Baird Jaboticaba - New Cultivar! Ricardo Barbosa Ice cream bananas Barry Moll Cocoa in the US-sources and variety discussion Barry & Margarita Specialty Crops - Any Suggestions? Steve Schultz Kiwis Sam Franc Re: Kiwis Leo Manuel To: Sam Franc Mangoes - Questions Levoin Vaughn" Re: Mangoes Leo Manuel To: Levoin Vaughn --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Moringa oleifera: A Common Tree With Rare Power (In L.A. Times) http://www.latimes.com/class/employ/healthcare/20000327/t000028893.html Recommended by Gladys Baird Cytology and mating systems in the climbing cacti Hylocereus and Selenicereus http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG044 - Selected Eugenia Species Can Gibberellic Acid Reverse The Effects Of Excess Bonzi? http://www.umass.edu/umext/programs/agro/floriculture/floral_facts/pgzga.htm Moringa oleifera http://hoya.mobot.org/gradstudents/olson/oleifera.html --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List None, this time --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Air Layering Mango Malcolm Manners Pusa Dwarf Papaya William Butler Carambola/Tamarind Julian Garcia Re: Fw: Jak fruit Erica Lynne Re: Jak fruit Greg Woolley Jakfruit Digby Gotts Re: Cherry of the Rio Grande Roger Meyer Re: Jaboticaba H. Allen Sylvester Gibberellic Acid William Butler Re: Jaboticaba Erica Lynne Gibberellic Acid Charles Novak Re: Moringa Tree Clarence Re: Jak fruit Greg Woolley Re: Moringa Tree Greg Woolley Tea Plants William Butler Re: Help for my Tea plants C.J. Watson Soil Issues, Drainage, heat Bill Re: Papaya Trees Kenneth Martin -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Adding Microbes to Transplant Mix Jesus Garcia, (301) 504-1627, jgarcia@ars-grin.gov ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Rubstovsk, Russia, Wants To Grow Rare Fruit In Pots.... Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 16:20:52 +0600 From: Alex Kolodejny Hi Leo, I am Alex Kolodejny, in Rubtsovsk (Altay Province) Russia I found your site from California Rare Fruit Growers. I live in Russia in South-West Siberia with its extremally cold winter temperatures. I'm trying to grow some fruits indoor just for my interest and would like to find people with the same interests. Most of that fruits are absolutelly unknown here and most of them are impossible to be found in Russia. Currently I grow loquat, feijoa but they are young to bear yet and pepino. In the fall I could find cherimoya seedling, naranjilla and seeds of strawberry guava, carica quercifolia, raisin tree and now trying to plant them. Fruit trees I am growing: loquat, feijoa, pepino (no cultivars); carica quercifola, strawberry guava, raisin tree (just planted the seeds); naranjilla, cherimoya seedling, solanum scabrum, saracha edulis, strawberry-spinach (I don't know its latin name), passionfruit incarnata - (just made the orders and is waiting for they come). Fruit trees I want to grow: Mango, carambola, chrisophillum (cainito, oliveforme), sapodilla, pouterias, white sapotas, rheedeas (madrono ...), jaboticabas, dwarf banana and any other. I won't write a lot of names, one man told me after reading my list that I better must go and live in Malaysia ;-) Now I'm trying to collect money for somebody was able to help me. You see one good guy from Florida keeping nursery (I knew his nursery from CRFG site) tryed to help me, but money I sent him for he was able to send a parcel lost in the way, now he's waiting again. But my wife is very angry about me because $20 (+ $20 to send it) is very expensive for us ;-) May be sometime in future. Any other comments: No comments Any questions to be answered by newsletter readers: In CRFG site I read that cherimoya is not recomended for containers. May be there are some dwarf anona species to use as a root stock. I heard about some dwarf species in Brazil. May be they are inedible or poisoned I don't know. I don't remember their latin names just now but I can tell them in future. Another question is about its polination. Is there selfpolinating cherimoya cultivars or only they have such tendency? What is an aspirator-type Japanese apple-pollinators recommended for polination of cherimoya in CRFG fruit facts? May be somebody wants anything growing in Russia. I can find quite anything growing in Russia region. To buy it and send is much more easy than sending USD for me. Kind regards, Alex Kolodejny mailto:alex@rub-czn.altai.su Subject: New Subscriber - France - Wants To Know About Hardy Citrus, And.... Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 14:39:29 -0500 From: Philippe Rothgerber Hello ! I'm a fruit grower in Alsace, France, interested in rare fruits. We grow the following trees : -apples (among them red fleshed apples) -peaches -pears -apricots Our farm is near Strasbourg. I was always interested in all kind of fruit trees that could grow in our climate, especially citrus fruits... if any exist. I also have 4 paw paw (Asimina triloba) that should flower this year !) and I have done some documentation research on the actinidia arguta... (see Kiwifruit Enthusiasts Journal) Many thanks for adding me to the "rare fruits" mailing list ! Greetings from Alsace, France Philippe Rothgerber mailto:philippe@pomme.net www.pomme.net Subject: Rare Fruit News Online Information Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 05:38:00 -0500 From: Rothgerber Philippe or To: "INTERNET:leom@rarefruit.com" Hi Leo ! Thanks for your mail ! I'm sorry, KEJ (Kiwifruit Enthusiasts Journal) is not on the web... Earlier it was named "Actinidia Enthusiasts Newsletter". The whole thing was done by Michael Pilarski, Bob Glanzman, Roger Meyer, etc. If there are not too many mails, I would welcome you to use "philippe@pomme.net" for my e-mail address. I can check this e-mail from anywhere in the world, and I get a notification on my cell-phone... and the "pomme.net" looks better for an apple grower !!! Many thanks again & greetings from Alsace Philippe Rothgerber mailto:philippe@pomme.net or mailto:phr@compuserve.com Subject: New Subscriber, Colorado, Interested In Whatever Will Grow In CO Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:31:55 EST From: Dale Langford I am Dale Langford, of Northglenn, Colorado I am growing all the common things for this area plus trying paw-paws, persimmon , jujube,etc. on an experimental basis. Also I am a weekly "green-thumb" columnist (newspaper) and welcome information on all things related. Dale Langford mailto:dale3693@aol.com Subject: New Subscriber, Louisiana, Already Growing Bananas, Guavas, Papayas.... Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:07:30 -0600 From: Nancy Rowe Attached is the info. requested. I'd be thrilled to receive your newsletter. I am Nancy Anne Rowe, in Lafayette, LA I successfully (for the most part) grow bananas, strawberry and pineapple guavas, papayas (beautiful, beautiful foliage!); am rasslin' with mango, passionfruit. High hopes for persimmons this year, paw-paw someday (have one, just became aware that a second is necessary for pollenation). Also loquat, some dwarf citrus (not too rare). Are there accessible archives for your newsletters? Or perhaps a topic search? My ignorance is boundless; most success achieved by pure dumb luck. Thank you. Nancy Rowe mailto:bspaleo@iamerica.net Subject: Rare Fruit Newsletter Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:46:03 -0500 From: Dan Sorensen I am Dan Sorensen, in Russell, PA I am now growing - Meiwa & Nagami Kumquat, Key Lime, White Sapote, Cherimoya and, though not "rare", the related Pawpaw, One papaya seedling, Passionfruit; I've undoubtedly forgotten something. Those I want to grow - Want Miracle fruit, Jaboticaba and Chico Sapote to replace ones I lost in a greenhouse fire a few years ago. Any other comments? I'm interested in almost any fruit culture and usually try anything I can get for at least awhile so I can get familiar with the species. I've also been a member of North American Fruit Explorers and CRFG for many years. Dan Sorensen mailto:dan@penn.com N.W. Pennsylvania USDA Zone 5 Experimental Gardening Website at: http://users.penn.com/~dan/ Pennsylvania State Master Gardener & Ham Radio- WB8VEF Subject: New Subscriber, West Chester, PA, Has Kiwis, Figs, Pawpaws, Citrus.... Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 15:43:42 -0500 From: Roger E. Bove Hi, I am Roger Even Bove, of West Chester, PA Now I am growing Tender and Hardy Kiwis, figs, pawpaws and other stuff that I might admit to when they make it through the winter. In greenhouse - citrus and annonas Roger Even Bove, Ph.D. mailto:rbove@wcupa.edu Associate Professor of Economics West Chester University -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Canepa Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 00:40:54 -0400 From: Juan A. Rivero To: CRMSNTD@concentric.net Hi Chris: The correct name is not canepa but quenepa. I will repeat some of what I said in a previous number of the Rarefruit News Online. The fruit is a native of Northern South America but it occurs throughout the Antilles, the Bahamas, Trinidad, Curacao and is cultivated in Central America, Ecuador, Florida, Bermuda and California. The size and quality of the fruit is very variable. In some varieties the pulp is quite thick and is easily separated from the seed, which may also be relatively small. Others may be as sour as a lime. Some may be as good as the best lychees but with a completely different flavor. The seed may be roasted and is edible and eatable. The common name of the fruit is mamon (with an accent on the o), mamoncillo, limoncillo, quenette, quenepa, ginep, among others. The names genip or genipa, which may be derivations of quenepa, should be avoided as they correspond more properly to the jagua or genipa, Genipa americana, a tree that belongs to the same family as the coffee (Rubiaceae). The quenepa belongs to the Sapindaceae, which also includes the lychee, the rambutan, the longan, the pulasan and the Amrican cotoperiz (which is similar lo the quenepa) Harvest time in Puerto Rico is August, where you can see loaded trees and vendors along roads, especially in the dryer parts of the island. Try them before you buy them. Vendors allow that without offense. As far as I know, the only person who has suceeded in grafting the quenepa and who also has very good selections, is Milton Perez, Jardines Eneida, Box 1086, Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico 00623. Best wishes Juan A. Rivero mailto:jarivero@caribe.net Subject: Hoax... Bananas, With Necrotizing Fasciitis (Flesh-Eating Bacteria) Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 18:53:22 -0500 From: Douglas Lee Schales In reply to your message dated: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 17:20:00 CST >>> >>>Several shipments of bananas from Costa Rica have been infected >>> >>>with necrotizing fasciitis, otherwise known as flesh eating >>> >>>bacteria. This is a hoax; details can be found at http://urbanlegends.tqn.com/culture/urbanlegends/library/blbananas.htm This site http://urbanlegends.tqn.com/ is a good place to check up on these... it's an interesting read in a free moment. There are lots of bizarre stories out there... Douglas Lee Schales mailto:schales@watson.ibm.com Subject: Pitaya Amarilla: Germination Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 12:49:57 GMT From: Roy Dynan Hi Leo, I have had no trouble germinating selenicereus and hylocereus in sand, but experts on the epi list recommend moist sphagnum moss for its fungicidal/germicidal properties. Are you also growing cereus peruvianus/validus/jacamaru? I may try these in a polytunnel here - they are supposed to be pretty hardy. Some validus fruits apparently have pink flesh! Roy Dynan mailto:roy.dynan@talk21.com Subject: Growing Passionfruit Incarnata In Russia - Question Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 13:43:03 +0600 From: Alex Kolodejny Dear Leo, I want to try growing passionfruit incarnata outdoor here (course it's too cold here in winters, but we can easily grow grape vines this way). Can anybody tell me about its pollination? Is it self-fertille? I ordered only one plant may be I need to buy another one. Need I to pollinate it by hands or it is selfpollinating? Can it bear fruits from new growings if the top dies in winter? What can you tell me about its quality and keeping characteristics? Is there any experience of growing passionfruits in cold areas? Kind regards, Alex Kolodejny mailto:alex@rub-czn.altai.su Subject: Re: Growing Passionfruit Incarnata In Russia - Question Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 11:53:16 -0800 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Alex Hello Alex, Passiflora incarnata dies back each fall, so it always has to flower and fruit on the current years growth. I have not heard of a self-fruitful clone, so you will need to hand pollinate to set fruit, unless the local bees will do it for you. Obviously you need at least two plants and since it's grown from seed, they will be different clones. I think the taste of the fruit will vary from good to very good, but I haven't tasted fruit from the wild plants in the Eastern U.S. People in the colder parts of the U.S. will grow P. incarnata outside successfully by mulching the roots after the stems die back. One more thing you need to know, P. incarnata will spread by root runners, so where you plant it the first year will not necessarily be where it grows the next year and the year after that. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: Sapodilla, Mamey Sapote, Star Apple - In Southern California? Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 16:32:12 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I just returned from a business trip to Miami. While there I managed to sneak away one day to the Redland Fruit and Spice Park and I also stumbled upon a fruit stand called Robert Is Here, which sells many rare fruits. I'm wondering if any of the following fruits that I enjoyed there can be grown in southern California: Sapodilla, Mamey sapote, Star apple (not to be confused with star fruit or sugar apple, etc.; I think it is also known as camito) I don't expect good news here, but maybe someone will know of some success with at least one of these. Thanks in advance. Good growing, Matthew Shugart mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Carlsbad, California Subject: Moringa Oleifera in Los Angeles Times Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 19:13:07 -0800 From: Gladys Baird Leo: Hope all is well. Have been admiring the mangoes at the Bucklew property. Were you able to determine which trees are what cultivar? For the newsletter: There was a great article on Moringa oleifera on the front page of today's (Monday, 27 March 2000) Los Angeles Times. Can be seen at http:www.LATimes.com - click on "A common tee with rare powers" which is listed under "Today's Times." This article is similar to one that appeared in the Fruit Gardener last year. Gladys Baird mailto:tokiko@incom.net Subject: Jaboticaba - New Cultivar! Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 01:54:10 -0300 From: Ricardo Barbosa Hi Leo. I finally got an answer from Paulo de S‡. He and his team discovered a new Jaboticaba cultivar that has dark red pulp. This does not surprise me. In Brazil we are still discovering indian tribes in the amazonic region that never contacted white men before. He will send me an air-layered small tree. Thanks for the information. How was your trip to the central state Missouri? I passed february in the beach to run away from the hot days we have here. Keep in contact. Ricardo Barbosa mailto:barbosa@orion.ufrgs.br Subject: Re: Ice cream bananas Date: Fri, 4 Jan 1980 21:55:40 -0500 From: Barry Moll Didn't I see something about a disease that is hitting the Ice Cream or Blue Java variety of bananas in Florida? What was it exactly? I have have a large stand of them growing for six years and have not had any problems until now. Two of the fruiting stalks have recently shriveled up before reaching half their maturity. Is this a virus which may effect the whole stand? I have four other bunches that are close to ripening which do not seem to have the problem. What should I do with the new trees growing around the effected trees? Could this also be a nutritional deficiency? Barry Moll mailto:mollb.lehighms.cameo@prodigy.net Subject: cocoa in the US-sources and variety discussion Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:22:38 -0500 From: Barry & Margarita Below is something I asked on the NAFEX listserv. I understand you have a newsletter. How does one access it? thanks for any help... >I would like to grow cocoa in my apartment. Does anyone know of a site >that discusses varieties and such??? also sources???? Barry & Margarita mailto:bmn@iglou.com Subject: Specialty Crops - Any Suggestions? Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:17:02 -0800 From: Steve Schultz My wife and I live in the small town of Terra Bella in the central part of the San Juaquin Valley in California - about a 40 minute drive north of Bakersfield. We live on 15 acres of mostly bare ground - we do grow 2 acres of golden nugget (pixy) mandarines and currently are planning to plant 4 acres of quince next spring (my father-in-law has been growing quince for years). We have a son who has some neurological challenges that will make him fairly dependent on us for the rest of his life. My wife and I are searching for specialty crops we could plant on our remaining 7-8 acres to provide a job for him, responsibility, and an income to help pay for his future care, needs, etc. He loves working with me in our little grove, driving the tractor, hoeing weeds, etc. So our intent in all of this is to provide something for him, not us. We live in an area that is overwhelmed with citrus, and we are looking for a specialty crop that we could plant that is not in such over-abundance. Something that has had and will continue to have a consistent return. I know that farming is often a crap-shoot, but we would feel more comfortable with a crop that has some proven consistency or a positive future market. If anyone could recommend crops to research I would greatly appreciate it. I would also like to visit any crops currently in the ground, talk with you about its potential, etc. The crops we will plant will need to be tree fruit that would be irrigated by a drip system (our well does not accomodate gated or sprinkler pipe irrigation, etc.) Any assistance anyone can provide will be greatly appreciated. Steve Schultz mailto:schultz@porterville.k12.ca.us Terra Bella, CA 93270 Subject: Kiwis Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:45:22 -0800 From: Sam Franc I know you live in San Diego and all Kiwis grow fine there. I live on the Oregon coast and grow Blake and an unknown variety I got from friends. Here Blake grows as a long narrow fruit, not fat like I see most Haywards in the store. The weather here is quite cool all summer with some frost in the winter and an occasional bad freeze. Lowest I have seen is 9 in 1990 Blake is reported to be self fruitful but I have not found it so/ Another reported self fruitful is Elmwood. It was also recommended for pour climate. Do you have any feelings about the best variety for our climate? Sam Franc mailto:franc@harborside.com Subject: Re: Kiwis Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:55:50 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Sam Franc Hi Sam, We can only grow kiwis that require little winter chill in the mild climate areas near the coast. Hayward will not produce at my home. I don't believe there is a self-fruitful kiwi, but I may be mistaken. What some growers do is graft a female onto a male. The male is often more vigorous growing and must be kept pruned more dramatically. It is important that the male and female have similar chill requirements, in order for them to bloom at the same time. I will publish your letter in the newsletter and possibly others will have more information. Yours, Leo Subject: Mangoes Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:18:16 -0500 From: Levoin Vaughn You sent me (Savannah GA) some info on mangoes a few weeks ago. Thanks. I found a Florida source and ordered two mango trees. They are sending me an East Indian Mango that they said I could plant in the ground around June and a Carrie that they said I could keep in a pot if I wanted two. They said it would fruit July each year even in a pot and both can be kept to 8' by pruning in fall. Just trying to get a second opinion and as much info on mangoes as I can. Do you know how tall each of these trees will grow if I plant them both in the ground. Do you have any information (pamplets or brochures) you can send me on the care of the plants, desease treatment, etc. Can I plant the trees within four feet of my house? Levoin Vaughn" mailto:levoin@earthlink.net Subject: Re: Mangoes Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 06:45:54 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Levoin Vaughn Hi Levoin, It may depend on the rootstock that your Carrie is grafted on, but Carrie at my home hasn't grown over five feet tall, in the ground. It is related to Julie, known to be more dwarfing. Also, my soil may be different. At my previous home, I needed the warmth and protection of my house for planting mango trees. I planted them two feet from the house, and they did well. They did not grow very large, as I kept them pruned. I had mango trees planted along both the west and south walls. I will publish your letter. Horticordially, Leo ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: Cytology and mating systems in the climbing cacti Hylocereus and Selenicereus Authors: Judith Lichtenzveig, Shahal Abbo, Avinoam Nerd, Noemi Tel-Zur and Yosef Mizrahi Chromosome numbers and meiotic behavior are reported for the climbing cacti Hylocereus undatus, H. polyrhizus, and Selenicereus megalanthus. The Hylocereus spp. are diploids (2n = 22), while S. megalanthus is a tetraploid (2n = 44). Chiasmata failure in S. megalanthus microspores is probably the major cause of its reduced pollen viability contributing to low seed set. Self-incompatibilty in H. polyrhizus and weakened incompatibility reactions in H. undatus and S. megalanthus were confirmed. No crossability barriers exist between these Hylocereus spp. Successful reciprocal intergeneric crosses suggest that an Hylocereus sp. might be one of the diploid progenitors of S. megalanthus. Subject: Cherry of Rio Grande & other eugenias http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG044 Selected Eugenia Species1 Richard L. Phillips2 DISTRIBUTION The species listed in Table 1 are widely distributed throughout the tropics and subtropics. The Surinam cherry is the most extensively grown while the cherry of the Rio Grande is the least commonly grown of this group. They may all be grown in southern Florida and in protected locations in central Florida. The cherry of the Rio Grande is the most cold tolerant of these species, closely followed by the Surinam cherry, and these can be grown further north. DESCRIPTIONS Cherry of the Rio Grande. Small evergreen tree or large shrub which commonly grows to about 15 feet. However, it may grow as high as 30 feet under favorable conditions. It has an upright, compact habit of growth and is very attractive, especially when in bloom. The smooth, glossy, dark green leaves are narrow elliptic, 2? to 3 inches long and are borne on short, grooved petioles. The white flowers are solitary and are borne in the axils of opposite bracts from March to May. The fruit is oblong to obovate, ? to 1 inch long, with a persistent calyx at the apex. The skin is thin and dark red or purple in color. The juicy flesh has a good, subacid flavor. It contains none or 1 to 2 white, rounded seeds, about ? inch in diameter. The fruit matures in April to June, about 3 weeks after the flowers open. Fruiting may occur in the third year after planting under favorable conditions but it often takes longer. Grumichama. Large evergreen shrub or small tree which may grow to a maximum height of 20 to 25 feet. It is very attractive in appearance with an upright, compact growth habit. The leathery leaves are oval to obovate, about 3 to 4 inches long by 2 inches wide, reddish when young, becoming glossy, deep green. The showy white flowers, up to 1 inch across, are borne in the leaf axils and are produced in large numbers on flushes of new growth in early spring. The fruit is globose to oblate, ? to 1 inch in diameter, has persistent green sepals at the apex and is borne on long, slender stems, often in clusters. The thin, delicate skin is scarlet to purplish black. The soft, melting flesh is sweet with an excellent flavor. The seeds are round, hemispherical, or angular, depending on the number present. The fruit matures in April to May, about a month after flowering. It takes 2 to 3 years to bear fruit from seed. Pitomba. Small, spreading evergreen tree or shrub which may attain a height of 25 to 30 feet. The tree has a compact growth habit with dense foliage and is quite attractive, especially when in fruit. The leathery leaves are elliptical lanceolate, about 3 inches long and are a glossy deep green color on the upper surface and light green below. The showy, white flowers, up to 1 inch across, appear from April to June. The fruit is broadly obovoid, about an inch long, with the apex crowned by 4 or 5 green sepals, about ? inch long. The thin skin is a bright orange yellow. The soft, melting, juicy flesh is orange in color and aromatic, sweet to subacid in flavor. The fruit contains 1 to several seeds attached to one side of the seed cavity. The fruit matures from May to June and sometimes there is a light crop in the fall. The pitomba usually begins fruiting in about the fourth year after planting. Surinam Cherry. Large evergreen shrub or small tree, usually less than 10 feet in height but it can grow to 20 feet. It has a compact growth habit with thin, wiry branchlets. The leaves are ovate, 1 to 2 inches long, highly aromatic and wine color when young, becoming a glossy, deep green. The small, creamy white flowers, about ? inch across are borne in the leaf axils, in spring and summer. The fruit is oblate, prominently 8 ribbed, ? to 1? inches in diameter, and is borne singly or in clusters, pendant on slender stems. The skin is very thin, shiny and varies in color from light red to almost black. The soft, juicy flesh is orangish, varying somewhat with the selection. The flavor is aromatic, sweet and pleasant in the better selections but poor quality fruits have an unpleasant, resinous flavor. The fruits contain one round seed or two hemispherical, comparatively large seeds. The main crop matures in the spring but there are some fruit most of the year. Occasionally, there is a fairly large crop in the late fall. Only a few weeks elapse between flowering and fruit set. Fruiting of the Surinam cherry usually begins 2 or 3 years after planting. CULTIVARS These species are usually propagated as seedlings and there is much variation in fruit quality among them. There are two forms of Surinam cherry--cerise and black. Grafting is seldom done and no named cultivars are readily available. PROPAGATION These species are propagated almost entirely by seed which germinates in less than a month. Desirable selections may be reproduced by grafting or by cuttings. Veneer, cleft and side grafts can be used, although this may be difficult with cherry of the Rio Grande. CLIMATE AND SOILS These species are well adapted to the growing conditions of the warmer areas of Florida. They all may be safely grown in most locations in southern Florida, particularly near the coasts and in protected locations of central Florida. The cherry of the Rio Grande and the Surinam cherry are more cold tolerant than the other two and may be grown further north. The cherry of the Rio Grande has withstood temperatures of about 20¡F for short periods with only twig damage, while the Surinam cherry has withstood temperatures as low as 22¡F. Grumichana has fair cold tolerance, mature trees having withstood temperatures of 26¡F without injury in Florida. The pitomba is fairly hardy with a cold tolerance comparable to gumichama, freezing at about 27¡F. Small trees are less tolerant and should be protected from temperatures below 30¡F. The trees may be successfully grown in most soil types, provided they are well drained. They require a good moisture supply at all times, especially the grumichama and the pitomba which have shallow root systems. All do best in slightly acid soils which are low in salts. The grumichama, especially, and also the pitomba are poorly adapted to alkaline soils, suffering from mineral deficiencies which result in chlorosis. All have good wind resistance, especially the cherry of the Rio Grande and the Surinam cherry, and do best in sunny locations. CULTURAL PRACTICES These species have very similar cultural requirements. They are all easy to grow, requiring relatively little maintenance for the growth of healthy, productive plants. Fruit size and quality depends to a large extent on proper nourishment and an adequate water supply at the time of fruit development. When first planted, they need a complete fertilizer in a 1-1-1 ratio, such as 6-6-6, that also contains magnesium. Start with no more than 1/4 pound at monthly or bi-monthly intervals, increasing the rates commensurate with growth. Iron deficiency in calcareous soils is a problem with grumichama and to a lesser extent with pitomba, and this element should be applied as Sequestrene 138, injected or drenched into the soil when needed. Nutritional sprays to supply other minor elements should also be applied as needed. After the tree has matured, a fertilizer such as 8-3-9 with 5% MgO is more appropriate. The plants should be supplied with adequate water at all times but especially during bloom and fruit development. The cherry of the Rio Grande and the Surinam cherry have fairly good drought tolerance, but the grumichama and the pitomba require special attention during long dry periods because of their shallow root systems. The cherry of the Rio Grande requires very little pruning to make an attractive tree and it is seldom pruned to make a hedge. The grumichama and pitomba are sometimes used in large hedges. Pruning them for this use should be done only during the summer since fruiting would otherwise be greatly reduced. The Surinam cherry can be severely pruned to maintain it as a hedge and it will still continue to flower and produce some fruit. PESTS AND DISEASES There are no serious pest or disease problems with these fruits other than the Caribbean fruit fly. USES These fruits may be eaten out of hand or be made into jellies, jams, juices, pies, sherbet, ice cream or wine. They are all attractive ornamentals, especially when in fruit, for use in the home landscape. All can be used for specimen trees or in screening hedges. The Surinam cherry is especially well adapted for training as a smaller hedge and it is widely used for this purpose. The Surinam cherry is readily available at many nurseries while the grumichama is occasionally found and the cherry of the Rio Grande and pitomba are usually not found in nurseries. All of these species make attractive and fruitful additions to the home garden and should be more widely used. Tables Table 1. Table 1. Eugenia species. Common Name: Scientific Name: Cherry of the Rio Grande Eugenia aggregata Kiaersk Grumichama Eugenia dombeyi Skeels Pitomba Eugenia luschnathiana Klotzch Surinam Cherry, Pitanga Eugenia uniflora L. Family: Myrtaceae Origin: All of the above species are native to Brazil. Subject: Moringa oleifera http://hoya.mobot.org/gradstudents/olson/oleifera.html Moringa oleifera Lam. This species is one of the world's most useful plants. Though apparently native only to restricted areas in the southern foothills of the Himalayas, M. oleifera is cultivated in all the countries of the tropics. M. oleifera is cultivated for its leaves, fruits, and roots for a variety of food and medicinal purposes. The young fruits (sometimes called "drumsticks" ) can be cooked in a number of different ways. An excellent oil is derived from the seeds, which is used for cooking and lubrication of delicate mechanisms. The leaves are extensively used as a vegetable in many parts of the world, and the root can be made into a condiment similar to horseradish (true horseradish, Armoracia rusticana, is a member of the Mustard Family, Brassicaceae). M. oleifera is also of interest because of its production of compounds with antibiotic activity such as the glucosinolate 4 alpha-L-rhamnosyloxy benzyl isothiocyanate. Other research has focused on the use of M. oleifera seeds and fruits in water purification. It is commonly and incorrectly known under the names M. aptera and M. pterygosperma. You can buy high-quality seed and obtain cultural information from: Dr. David Odee Head Biotechnology Division Kenya Forestry Research Institute PO Box 20412 Nairobi KENYA 011 254 (0)154 32891-3 or 32541 (voice) 011 254 (0)154 328-44 (fax) email: kefri@arcc.or.ke; put "ATTN DAVID ODEE" in the subject line. For an overview of M. oleifera applied uses and extensive references, visit the University of Leicester's M. oleifera Page If you are interested in finding out more about the use of Moringa oleifera seeds in water purification, please get in touch with: Dr. Geoff Folkard Engineering Department University of Leicester University Road Leicester LE1 7RH United Kingdom Telephone: +44 (0)116 252 2538 Fax: +44 (0)116 252 2619 E-mail: gkf@le.ac.uk Cooking Moringa * Learn to Eat Moringa has loads of recipes. To date, most research on economic uses has focused on M. oleifera, and the other species have been almost completely ignored. Perhaps other species have even more effective flocculants, antibiotics, oils, or more unkown applications. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Moringa oleifera images 1. tree cultivated in village of Antanimieva, southwestern Madagascar; 2. large trees in agricultural complex near Chennai (Madras), India; 3. field of annual cultivar PKM south of Tiruchirapalli, Tamil Nadu, India; 4. fruits and seeds ready for cooking; 5. side view of flower ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ None this time -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Subject: Air Layering Mango Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:56:22 -0800 From: Malcolm Manners Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com A few years ago, Tom Davenport, of the Tropical Research and Education Center, in Homestead, Florida, published an article (Tropical Fruit World??) on air layering mango. They had good success, at least with some varieties. As I recall, they were using 1% NAA in lanolin paste to stimulate rooting. Malcolm Manners mailto:mmmavocado@aol.com Subject: Pusa Dwarf Papaya Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 16:12:23 -0800 From: "William Butler" Reply-To: rarefruit@eGroups.com Does anyone in this forum know of a source for seeds for the pusa dwarf papaya. From what I've been told it sometimes fruits at 12 to 14 inches tall. This would be ideal for my part of California as I need to protect papayas from winter here. Thank you for your help William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Re: carambola/tamarind Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2000 02:43:43 -0500 (EST) From: Julian Garcia Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Joyce, I also bought a Sri Kembangan carambola from Ong and later obtained a Kari variety at Armstrong's Nsy. as well to replace the Arkin I had earlier (Arkin is supposedly the standard commercial type that does well for retail but according to a tropical fruit professor in south FL does not rate as high in taste as the Sri Kembangan and Kari). Anyway, carambolas do well in shade and can be planted next to larger trees in small yards. I planted these two carambolas 2 feet from each other last spring in full sun (thousand oaks, ca) and they have done well so far despite gopher attacks. By the way, if anyone knows the name and/or source of the naturally caffeine free coffee and whether it tastes good please let me know. Thanks, Julian Garcia mailto:jagjag@pol.net ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- Originally From: EJG@webtv.net (Joyce Greenlund) Subject: Re: carambola/tamarind Date: 03/18/2000 04:30pm I am just getting ready to plant two carambola, Ong calls one a B-10 and the other is a Sri Kambamga. Can you please give me some planting instructions as to location and amendments.? How large and old are yours? Have they beared fruit? How much shade will they tolerate or do they prefer full sun? Joyce mailto:EJG@webtv.net Subject: Re: Fw: Jak fruit Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 07:43:53 -0500 From: Erica Lynne Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com I heard a talk by a jak fruit expert at Fairchild Botanical Gardens and have tasted jak fruit grown here in Collier County Florida. Several people here grow jak fruit and more grow it on the east coast of Florida. It is a good cash crop for the Asian market. The Fairchild expert said that you could grow jak fruit trees and keep them pruned small, say 10 feet, and still get good fruit production for the home garden. After all, how many 30 pound fruits can one family eat? He also said that trees will not grow once the tap root has curled around at the bottom of a pot, so it is important to get them planted in the ground soon and not let them get pot bound. However, this might be an advantage to those of you who are container gardening. As others have said, jak fruit wants good drainage; it can tolerate no standing water. Many jak fruit have a strong flavor that Westerners find unpleasant. However, some varieties are more palatable than others. Also, if served very cold, the flavor is less strong. The fruit is tedious to prepare, separating the rind, seeds, etc. from the fruit. I do remember than Black Gold is supposed to be a variety with a milder flavor. You can get a lot more information from Fairchild. Erica Lynne mailto:ericalynne@mindspring.com Subject: Re: Jak fruit Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 01:32:07 +0800 From: Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com I have a grafted "Black Gold" jakfruit tree too. It is only a baby however, just 2' tall and planted 5 months ago in spring. It was slow to start growing, but at 2 months there was a good flush of growth. Unfortunately I had to dig it up (very carefully) and transplant it to another spot in my yard to make room for some other fruit trees. It had good amount of vibrous root growth with no discernable tap root. Since the transplant (2 months ago) it has hardly grown, but as I was careful with the transplanting I think it will pick up soon. I also have a young 2' tall seedling jakfruit growing well in a container. In the winter, I will put clear plastic cover around the Black Gold, already there is clear plastic on the ground to raise the soil temperature. The container jakfruit will go into green house during winter for protection and next spring I am not sure what to do with it, as I am running out of space in my garden lol... Here is some information (from Daley's Nursery) on "Black Gold":- "A variety from Northern Queensland that produces an abundance of small to medium fruit of 12 - 24kg. Black Gold is a superior choice for subtropical climates as it is more cold tolerant than the other varieties. A soft fleshed fruit with up to 80% flesh recovery. Very easy to open. Produces very sweet summer fruit". More jakfruit info:- http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/facjac.html http://www.daleysfruit.com.au/ Clarence, how old is your jakfruit tree and what temperatures are you referring to when you say "colder winter temps"? Many thanks. Greg Woolley mailto:gregw@amitar.com.au Subject: Jakfruit Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2000 13:04:00 -0800 From: Digby Gotts Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Here's some info about Jakfruit management - a collation from many texts. The flowering pattern is the same as for Jaboticaba, so the pattern for pruning and feeding will be the same also. I've also had no trouble in staghorning three 25 year old jaboticabas, then root pruning and transplanting. They have all recovered and are fruiting again 2 years later. Haven't heard of a yellow friuting jaboticaba although yellow Gramichama are quite common. Taste is the same, they are just a bit softer and therefore have a shorter life. JAKFRUIT (Artocarpus heterophyllus) Origin - Asia, possibly India. Now commonly found throughout South east Asia. The fruit is the world's largest tree-fruit, borne on the trunk and main branches. Habitat Preferences - Best performance will be on well-drained, fertile, clay loams in a warm environment with rain all year. The tree will survive harsh conditions with reduced yield and will even tolerate frost once established. Cultivars - Many different fruit types can be found, however the tree is commonly grown from seed and the seeds do not run true to type. Some firm fleshed types are cooked immature as vegetables while others are preferred fully ripe. Soft-fleshed types are most often eaten ripe, although the high fibre content is difficult for some people to cope with. In general, firm fleshed types (Cheena) have very large amounts of latex, making the flesh extraction difficult while soft flesh types (Prouse) have little latex and open easily. In Samoa, the preference has been the sweet soft flesh, eaten ripe. Tree Style and Use - Jakfruit grows to be a large tree to 20 meters or more. The main growth is usually straight up, but it can be encouraged to branch out. The timber is very strong and flexible, but bright yellow. The tree is often grown for furniture timber in Sri Lanka, and is a useful windbreak species. Feeding - A steady supply of nitrogen based fertilisers throughout the year for young trees, changing to monthly application only during the growing season when the trees start to flower, usually by year 4. Try to avoid large bursts of leafy growth, which will reduce yields. Pruning - Young trees should be cut to encourage lateral branching to 3-4 trunks. These should be allowed to grow but limited in height to keep the fruit accessible. Pests and Diseases - The tree seems to be able to outgrow most pests but it is susceptible to Pink's disease, causing dieback. Control this by removal and burning of affected limb. Paint cut and surrounds with latex paint mixed with Copper Oxychloride. Other Management Issues If the trees are to be used as a windbreak, it is best to plant seeds into the field to allow maximum development of the taproot. A strong taproot is essential as a mature tree can carry 1-2 tonnes of fruit. This top-weight together with poor root development can cause the tree to be blown down in wet windy weather. A very close 2-3 meter spacing will limit fruit development from competition while still providing an adequate windbreak. If trees are being grown for fruit, it would be better to decide the desired fruit style and plant grafted, air layered or budded stock at a 6 X 12 meter spacing. Male flowers are microscopic, occurring in dense clusters resembling long green plums. When mature the pollen appears on the surface as yellow, sweet smelling, fuzz. Within a few days these fruit-like structures will decay and drop. Female flowers are similar structures always found on the trunk or main branches. Insects, particularly native bees in Australia, usually carry out pollination, but some growers have reported successful hand pollination. Fruit Harvesting - The main harvest is from January to June, but climatic differences can mean that fruit is available all year. Individual fruit can weigh up to 40 Kg, but normally weigh around 5 Ð 10 Kg. The fruit are picked when they are fully formed, and they should soften to ripe within one week. It is best to establish the maturity by trial and error, or wait until the first fruit has gone overripe on the tree before picking the others of similar size. Some fruit show a yellowing of the skin or the stem when mature, while others give a hollow sound when tapped. It takes about 3 months from fruit set to maturity. Several references state that the fruit is harvested after dropping off the tree. This is not correct as Jakfruit usually start to decay well before dropping, and after impact with the ground are spread over a square meter. (The typical sound of a falling jakfruit goes something like swiiiish, splot.) Fruit Use - Immature fruit can be fried, boiled or roasted, and in India or Sri Lanka it will be commonly found as the main ingredient in a curry. For use in this way, the fruit is usually harvested before the seeds have fully formed. When the fruit has softened to ripe, the soft varieties can be sliced to open one side and then pulled apart easily. The fruit contains dozens of fleshy segments, each enclosing a seed. This flesh is soft and very sweet, in taste and texture very like banana bubble-gum. Firm fleshed varieties can also be eaten when ripe, but the segments have to be cut out, as the flesh will not pull apart easily. Cutting this fruit releases the latex, which does not dissolve in water and so cannot be washed off the hands or implements. One trick is to wipe the hands and knife with cooking oil before cutting the fruit, and the latex will not stick. If you forget to do this and get covered in latex, you will have to use kerosene to clean everything! Firm flesh also has the sweet banana flavour, but the texture is more that of a not so crisp apple. The packing fibre (`rags' or `spaghetti') is also quite edible, without the intensity of flavour of the main flesh. The seeds can also be eaten after cooking, and through SE Asian markets are often sold separately. Nutrition - Very high calorie counts in some references, but data are inconsistent. Probably due to differing varieties or stages of ripeness. Edible pulp is 30% of fruit weight. Edible pulp contains: 73% water, 0.6% Fat, 23% Carbohydrate, 2% Fibre, 0.5% Ash. Seeds are 5% of fruit weight. Seeds contain 52% water, 7% protein, 0.5% fat, 40% carbohydrate, 1.5% fibre, 1.5% ash. (data from "Tropical Tree fruits for Australia", QDPI 1984) Recipes #61623; Use wherever a recipe calls for apricots. So pies, tarts, and ice cream are superb. #61623; The flesh of the soft varieties dries very well, making a very high-energy snack food on its own or for chopping up into muesli. #61623; Jakfruit jam is one of my favourite breakfast jams, made by blending 50:50 jakfruit flesh with acid carambola or grapefruit, then cooking the mixture with an equal quantity of sugar. The acid fruit counters the sweetness of the jakfruit, and helps the jam to set. #61623; Boil jakfruit seed for 15 minutes, then use in a curry. They can also be eaten on their own after boiling, for a taste very like boiled potato, or you can then roast them in oil like monster peanuts. Digby Gotts mailto:tlaiti@lesamoa.net Subject: Re: Cherry of the Rio Grande Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 09:19:45 -0800 From: Roger Meyer Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com I have a large plant in a 15 gallon container here in southern California. The plant is from seed. It's first 2 years of blooming set no fruit but now it sets fruit several times each year. So just be patient would be my suggestion. Roger Meyer mailto:exoticfruit@95net.com Subject: Re: Jaboticaba Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 20:32:55 -0600 From: H. Allen Sylvester Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com William, I have been using several different kinds of soluble fertilizer (Miracid, etc.) plus ammonium nitrate at about 1/2 teaspoon per gallon each, as close to every other week as I can. Jaboticaba is supposed to prefer acid conditions. I use a homemade pine bark based soilless mix. Every so often, when I see signs of chlorosis I use a chelated micronutrients mix also. In spring, I try to dig 4 holes around the edge of the large pots and bury a couple handfuls of soybeans or other beans and cottonseed meal in each one. This seems to act as a slow release fertilizer and makes a real improvement in growth. Also works for Surinam cherries and carambola. I also have a plant of yellow jaboticaba. It has bloomed in the fall the last 3 years but has never set any fruit. It has very attractive leaves but I am still working to get growing conditions right. It seems to be more susceptible to chlorosis and poor growth. I have lost other small plants of both kinds of jaboticaba that I got in 1996 in Florida. Obviously, I am not yet an expert jaboticaba grower. Where are you located? I assume on the West coast. Carambola in particular seems to prefer the higher humidity here in Louisiana. Allen mailto:asylvest@eatel.net Subject: Gibberellic Acid Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 07:13:25 -0800 From: "William Butler" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Has anyone in this group used gibberellic acid on any of your plants? I found some information on line along with a chart for mixing, however im not sure if i can use it on small plants or not. i have some small papayas and would like to excellerate the growth on them.This product sounds like it could be very useful on lots of our tropicals. any info on this subject would be greatly welcomed. William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Re: Jaboticaba Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 15:19:00 -0500 From: "Erica Lynne" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com In Fruits of Warm Climates (Barbara Morton, it says: In 1978, Ackerman of the Rare Fruits Council International reported on the fertilizer experiments with 63 one year old and 48 two yr old seedlings (jaboticaba) in containers. Better growth was obtained with plants in a mixture of equal amounts of acid sandy muck, vermiculite and peat, given feedings of 32 g of 14-14-14 slow release fertilizer (Osmocote), roughly every 2-1/2 months and 3 gallons of well water (pH 7.2) by a drip system every 2 days over a period of 18 months, than plants given other treatments. The addition of chelated iron was of no advantage, chelated zinc retarded growth rate, chelated manganese stopped growth and caused defoliation. Abundant water was found to be essential to survival. I purchased a large jaboticaba two springs ago. It is now about 9 feet tall. First I planted it in a dry area, but after I learned that it grows in the river flood plain in Brazil, I moved it to a wet area of my yard (of which I have many). It has not flowered yet, but seems to be growing nicely. I water it extra during this past winter, because it has been very very dry in south Florida. Locally there are several fruit growers with fruiting jaboticabas and the fruit is excellent tasting. Erica Lynne mailto:ericalynne@mindspring.com Subject: Gibberellic Acid Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2000 17:14:17 -0800 From: Charles Novak Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi William, I have used gibberellic acid on my plants. It worked to set fruit and also for seeds. In my next message I will post a chart for mixing. Yes, you can use it on small plants. I use it for my seeds and on all my plants that I want to fruit. Charles Novak mailto:c.novak@worldnet.att.net Subject: Re: Moringa Tree Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 05:59:56 EST From: KahiwaL@cs.com Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi Walt I don't know what is in the article, but the following is out of the Oregon Exotics Nursery catalog: "Horseradish Tree (Moringa Olefera) This tree is cultivated in Asia for its edible fruits, flowers, leaves, seeds, and roots. The 15" long fruit pods are served and make an excellent vegetable. The 3" long feathery leaves and fragrant white flower clusters are eaten likewise or picked along with the fruit pods and used in curries. From the seeds an oil called 'Behen' is expressed which never goes rancid. It is used in cooking, for salads, or for art work and a famous watchmakers oil. The roots are commonly harvested and used universally for their piquant horseradish-like spiciness. It is a small soft wood tree with corky bark. From northwest India." In Hawaii, one ethnic group uses the tree a lot. When you see the tree, it is usually found at a "Filipino" home. I personally think they are smart because it is a great tree. Branches can be cut off of it and used for animal (pigs, cattle, sheep, goats, chickens, etc.) forage . New shoots grow out, more than replacing the ones that are used. In experiments in Africa, if my memory is correct, if you have 10 of these trees, it can provide enough feed to take care of a pig. Anyway I'm not sure about the number of trees necessary. I believe I read this on some website on "Agroforestry." It might have been 20 trees, but I was amazed that it wasn't a much greater number. Also, check out "ECHO" which stands for Educational Concerns for Hunger Organization. Their URL is: http://echonet.org/ Their seed catalog adds the following: "Moringa Tree (Moringa oleifera). These seeds have been the biggest success in ECHO's seedbank, due to its many edible parts and its ability to survive in arid regions. It is a vegetable tree. The large frilly leaves can be broken off easily at the stem. The tiny leaflets can then be quickly pulled off between the fingers. Tender growing tips can be cooked stem and all. Boil as any spinach, then eat with vinegar or your favorite sauce for greens. For more recipes, look in Filipino cookbooks under malunggay. In the extreme south the tree will probably live through the winter but may be killed to the ground. Even where no freeze damage occurs some people cut it back to about 4 feet each year to force the leaves to be closer to the ground for ease of harvesting. Dr. Peterson (developer of the 'Beta III' high carotene carrot) reported that his moringa, started in the greenhouse, grew to 8 feet in Wisconsin and seems to have potential as an annual vegetable up there! When trees are about 3-4 feet tall they can be pulled out of the ground and the roots grated and used like horseradish. Very young pods can be cooked like asparagus. (You will not get pods in Wisconsin.) Blossoms are also edible. Seeds of the moringa should be planted about an inch deep. If the growing season is short they can be planted inside and later transplanted. Under ideal conditions with a long growing season the tree can easily be 15 feet tall in a year. If grown for the leaves, begin harvesting the growing tips when the plant is about 4 feet tall. This will force side branches and form a bushy plant. Otherwise it will become tall and lanky." For even more info at ECHO, go on to the next URL. http://echonet.org/aztext/azch4mul.htm#Mori Also, check out the writeup on M. stenopetela following the remarks on "M. oleifera" in the above URL. This tree, I believe, should be rated "excellent" as a multi-purpose tree and it should surely be used to its greatest potential by all of mankind. Regards Clarence from the Big Island (Hawaii) mailto:KahiwaL@cs.com Subject: Re: Jak fruit Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 01:15:44 +0800 From: Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Bob, You mention "well drained soil", this is good timing for me, because I am currently focused on the subject of soil structure such as drainage and aeration of soils. My durian, lau-lau and rambutan all came from the same nursery and were all originally potted in dense volcanic clay like medium and none of the poor trees have thrived. So eventually I dig up the durian and wash off the thick heavy clay. I then see that the main roots are all knotted up, so have to cut them off (my poor durian baby!). I also wash off the clay from the roots of the rambutan and I pot them both into expanded clay and perlite. Now the durian and rambutan can breath properly for the first time probably in years. The lau-lau is yet to be done. Yesterday I went to hydroponic shop and had a look at the roots of a hydroponic plant growing in expanded clay medium. The roots were all covered with thousands of fine hairs and it looked so healthy. So I have learned that good aeration for the root system is very important for a healthy plant. So then I wonder how I can maximize the aeration of the soil in my backyard garden so my fruit tree roots can breath lots of fresh oxygen and grow at their fullest potential. On the info sheet the nursery sent me on durian, it says:- "Deep sandy to clay loams derived from basalt or granite preferred. Excellent drainage required. Very intolerant of poor aeration..." Hmmm, so apparently the durian tree must have excellent drainage and aeration. Next I search the internet for "soil structure" AND "tropical rain forest' etc, but I cannot find much information on the soil structure of tropical rain forest. But I guess it is basically sand, with a top layer of organic matter, where worms and other small animals and insects eat and churn through the organic matter, aerating the upper levels of the soil as they go. Am I correct on this? So, I wonder what is best for my durian tree. Shall I excavate a cubic meter or two or three of garden soil and replace it with a few cubic meters of course sand, or pea-gravel, so that the soil drainage and aeration is super-duper superb, or should I dig in lots of compost and add lots of worms, so that the worms can tunnel through the soil and eventually over time create good soil structure? I am not sure which will bring about the best soil structure and the best drainage and aeration. I am erring on the side of excavated a few cubic meters of soil and replacing it with course sand or pea-gravel or screened granite (approx 5mm size). Would appreciate any input on this subject of soil structure. Thanks. One thing that may be relevent to the topic of container grown fruit trees:- when I chatted with nursery owner he told me that the durian will not fruit until the trunk and the branches attain a certain size and strength that can support the heavy fruit (re: a trunk size of at least 4"). Maybe this also applies to jakfruit? Maybe the jakfruit tree needs to attain a suitable size that can carry the weight of the heavy fruit, before it will flower? Can it reach this suitable size in a container? Just speculation. Greg Woolley mailto:gregw@amitar.com.au Subject: Re: Moringa Tree Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 02:02:12 +0800 From: Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hello Walt, I also am intrigued with the Moringa tree (drumstick or horse-radish tree) and have recently been inquiring into it and have learnt a few things about it. The weekend before last, I was fortunate eenough to find a local supplier of Moringa tree and bought two young Moringa Oelifera trees from a Indian family. Apparantly the Moringa is native to India. They have two Moringa trees growing in their back yard. The trees were upright, elegant shape, sparse delicate folige, with soft white/cream pretty and fragrant flowers. The whole tree, the shape, folage and flowers all looked quite picturesque and beautiful. Have read that all parts of the tree are edible and that the leaves are an excellent source of calciumn, with figures quoted of 300-440mgs of calcium per 100 gms of leaf. That is pretty impressive! So, I then did some inquiries into whether this calcium is in a bio-available form, or whether the calcium is bound up in the form of calcium-oxalate. After some searching and inquires I learn that it does have some calcium-oxalate but not as much as spinach. Can post the exact figures later if you are interested. Apparently there is also an Ethiopian variety of Moringa, called the Moringa Stenopetala. This variety is more vigorous and has larger lusher leaves than the Moringa Oleifera, so it sounds more appealing as a source of edible green leaf (my main interest is the leaf). Mark Olson http://hoya.mobot.org/gradstudents/olson/moringahome.html and http://hoya.mobot.org/gradstudents/olson/oleifera.html has done extensive research on the Moringa. For a source of seed and cultural information on the M. Oleifera and M. Stenopetala he suggested to contact Dr. David Odee kefri@arcc.or.ke Full contact information can be found at:- http://hoya.mobot.org/gradstudents/olson/oleifera.html Echonet has some very interesting information on Moringa:- http://www.echonet.org/moringa1.htm http://www.echonet.org/moringa2.htm http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/duke_energy/Moringa_oleifera.html Will let you know how my trees get along and what the leaves taste like after I have eaten my first Moringa Oleifera leaf salad :) If it tastes good I may consider even growing a Moringa front hedge for a constant source of nutritious salad greens :) Greg Woolley mailto:gregw@amitar.com.au Subject: Tea Plants Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:09:23 -0800 From: William Butler Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Walt it is funny that you should mention the tea plant, as I was talking to a fellow this last weekend who is groing several. He said that they are tricky to grow but learned a lot of the culture for them from the University of Cal. at Parlier Ca. I guess at one time they were doing research on this plant and found 3 cultivars that do real good in California. I have seen the plants there myself. They no longer research them, but have kept a few tea plants around the offices. They will let you have cuttings off these plants as well. Also Nuccios nursery in Altedena carries the tea plant. Best of luck in your endeavors. William Butler mailto:bananaizme@aol.com Subject: Re: Help for my Tea plants Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:01:58 CST From: C.J. Watson Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi Walt, I have never tried to grow tea here in Florida, but I have a yard full of camellias. Many local folks do grow tea the same way. So, I will tell you what camellias like. I grow mine under high filtered shade, such as would be found under pine trees. They need an organic mulch, such as pine needles or chippings, but don't let it touch the trunk. Acid soil, about 4.5 to 5.0. A reasonable amount of humidity is a necessity (50%+). Make sure the drainage is perfect. And importantly, we have here what is called camellia die-back. It is a sudden wilting and browning of one or several branches which can sometimes lead to the death of the entire bush. It is not preventable and seems to be inherent in the camellia family. What we do is trim back the branch immediately when it is noticed and sometimes that prevents it from travelling further. If you can grow azaleas and gardenias easily where you are, you can grow camellias the same way. Hope this helps. Carol mailto:botanyusa@hotmail.com Subject: Soil Issues, Drainage, heat Date: 30 Mar 00 17:19:41 PST From: Bill Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com HEAT: I ran across the heating cable we discussed a few months ago. Here is what is printed on it.: RayChem Corp. Freezgard (Registered Name Symbol) Parallel Self-Regulating Heater RS-18 120 VAC Patent Pending 6 Watts/Foot @ 40F/4.4C Maxz Temperature rating 65C Max circuit Amps 32 CSA Type 3C (UL) Listed 718K Heating Cable 7-32050-01 This implies a 640 Foot run is the maximum, in any single run. RayChem used to be In California, I believe in Palo Alto or Sunnyvale. 650 or 415 or 408 area code. The core of this is 2 solid copper wires, with conductive plastic, which self regulates! It is a flat ribbon, ~1.25 cm wide and 3-4mm thick. Covering this is an insulating (electrically) sheath of plastic. It bends to a 1 inch radius easily, and largely retains it, so can almost be wrapped around a tree trunk, but soil warming was the topic at the time. It is not very costly, as it is "raw" this way, and not a fancy assembly. Easy to work with. This is usually purchased by 50-100 foot rolls. You add a wire and plug. 6 Watts per foot, means it is between the heat of a 4 watt "cool" night light and the standard 7W. Ten feet is good on a car dash, to soften frost, gently, from convection. Bill mailto:OOWON@netscape.net SSF, CA, Zone 9.4973, 69% Sun, but rarely warm. Subject: Re: papaya trees Date: 31 Mar 00 00:06:04 PST From: Kenneth Martin Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com William Butler wrote: Has anyone here ever tried to girdle a papaya? Im curious what the effects would be. i have wondered whether it would #1 dwarf the plant to some extent.#2 indulce early flowering.also i wonder what the effects of gibberellic acid would be on the papaya.if anyone has tried any of these techniques id sure like to hear about them. William William, girdling a papaya tree would make it suceptable to disease such as stem rot, phytophra. It is not recommended..If it is a young tree, about three months in the ground, and has leaves with a drip zone of about three feet, pinch the apical growing tip of the plant, leaving the larger lower leaves in tack, so as to nurish the regrowth from side shoots. The old timers in Hawaii do this a number of times. 1. It helps the young tree develop a larger root system without getting top heavy. 2. It will allow the tree to mature, without the normal hastening towards the sky. 3. This will in itself not promote early flowering, but the delayed flowers, because of the cutting of the apical growing point of the tree, (remember, just the very top shoot of the tree), will begin setting flowers and bearing fruit at a much lower position on the trunk. Gibberellic acid is not cleared for use on papaya, but researchers use it on seeds for hastening germination, and on trees for both stimulating the growth of new side shoots off the main trunk, and to induce flowering at an early date, and thus a lower level on the trunk. I am not sure about the rates. If my memory is correct, it is used at only 2 ppm, or maybe even it was .2ppm. Try both as experiments, and let me know how it goes. Keep the nitrogen low on the young trees as that causes them to grow extremely fast in the vegetative stages. In clay soils, we use 2 to 3 pounds of treble super phosphate per tree, banded usually in about a three foot trench. One and one half feet on each side of the planting site. This will promote a large strong trunk, with multiple flowers, and fruit set at each node. After the tree sets about 25 fruit, begin increasing the nitrogen about .34 pounds actual N per tree every 12 weeks in dry weather, or .19 pounds of N per tree per 12 weeks in wet weather. The mature trees need about 9 gallons of water a day for optimum growth...Small trees need very little water. They prefer long heavy waterings of about 27 gallones, every three days rather then 9 gallons per day. This promotes deep roots. Remember, trees seek out water, and not fertilizer. So the P2O5 needs to be wet for the plant to benefit from it's placement. We usually bury it about 6 to 8 inches. Aloha, Ken -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Adding Microbes to Transplant Mix Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:51:57 -0500 From: "ARS News Service" Tomato and pepper farmers can now add microbes along with their transplant mix to the arsenal of production practices used to reduce yield losses caused by soilborne pathogens--including root-knot nematodes. The microbe-amended transplant mix is being developed by Agricultural Research Service scientists at the U.S. Horticultural Research Laboratory in Fort Pierce, Fla., led by Nancy K. Burelle, in cooperation with Gustafson LLC of Plano, Texas. The transplant mix, called BioYield 213, is amended with two naturally occurring soil microorganisms--Paenobacillus macerans and Bacillus amyloliquefacien. The mix provides the microorganisms with the environment they need to grow on the root surface of seedlings. Once this occurs, the microbes then stimulate vigorous growth and improve the health of the transplanted seedling by triggering the plant's resistance mechanisms. This research is part of an ongoing ARS effort to provide farmers with alternatives to the use of methyl bromide, an ozone-depleting soil fumigant being phased out by 2005. Benefits continue to be observed in seedlings out in the field. Greenhouse producers can expect to grow seedlings in a shorter time period and farmers can anticipate 5 to 20 percent yield increases in tomatoes, bell peppers and even strawberries. The mix will be made commercially available to transplant producers in the fall after grower trials are concluded. This research is helping scientists gauge the effectiveness of other alternatives to methyl bromide. For example, when this technology is combined with alternative soil treatments such as Telone II and PLANTPRO 45, levels of crop productivity approach those achieved with methyl bromide. But results also indicate that combining the new formulations with the commonly used practice of solarization--a process that creates an inhospitable environment for detrimental microbes by covering the soil with plastic to heat it, for 6 to 8 weeks in the summer--does not enhance control of root-knot nematodes. As the phasing out of methyl bromide proceeds, this technology will provide growers with an effective, economical and sustainable alternative component that they can use with existing methods. ARS is the chief research agency of the U.S. Department of Agriculture. >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - April 1, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - April 15, 2000 - AKA RFN200004B.txt --Notes In Passing Leo's Quest For Selenicereus Megalanthus (Pitaya Amarilla) 1. A true friend sent me seeds, some of which are sprouting only a week after planting them. I've got to devise something (maybe with your help) to keep the slugs and snails away from them, without encouraging fungicidal diseases. So far, I'm keeping them enclosed with plastic wrap over the top. 2. I found that Tropical Fruit Trees Nursery, 7341 121st Terrace North, Largo, FL 33773 (813) 539-7527, had seedlings and cuttings to sell, and I received two bare-root plants that are quite nice. Alan doesn't have a webpage, but his email mailto:zambesi@gte.net works fine. His prices were better by far(!) than Dave Silber at Papaya Tree Nursery. You'll find some of the correspondence between Alan and myself, in the "Readers Write" section, below. 3. I've found that cuttings of various Hylocereus and Cereus will root very quickly, given bottom heat, and a little rooting hormone. I keep the planting medium only slightly moist, until after rootlets form, and then water sparingly. 4. You'll find at least everything you want to know about Barbados Cherry in the Web Page section. Also in the same section is an excellent web page, Fruit Trees and Promising Crops of the Amazon. It is in Spanish, but the pictures are great. 5. In a later section is something I found of interest, and I'd like to see feedback from you, if you've used the product, described in "Golden Harvest Fertilizer - With Gibberellic Acid!" ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, Florida, Looking For Star Fruit Tree al pergande New Subscriber, CA, Growing Papayas; Interested In Mangos and Bananas Gus Olson New Subscriber, CA, (Near Salton Sea) Felix Mercado New Subscriber, Moorpark, CA; Too Cold For Some Rare Fruit Michael Zarky New Subscriber, Mountain View, CA; Can I Grow Mango? Keith Lee --Readers Write Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry scoutdog@pacbell.net Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Mark Presky Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Eunice Messner Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Mark Presky Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Leo Manuel To: Alan Re: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Alan Smith Re: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Alan Smith Re: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Alan Smith Horseradish Tree and Noni Alan Smith Help! I Can't View "Rare Fruit News Online" "Bove, Roger E." Re: Help! I Can't View "Rare Fruit News Online" Leo Manuel Bananas Matthew Shugart Moringa Gladys Baird Sapodilla, mamey sapote, caimito "Holzinger, Bob" To: "'mshugart@ucsd.edu'" How big does surinam cherry grow? Nan Sterman Re: How big does surinam cherry grow? Leo Manuel To: Nan Sterman RE: Miracle Fruit Care "Erica Lynne" --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Barbados Cherry "Richard Himbarger" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Fruit Trees And Promising Crops Of The Amazon http://www.spt-tca.org/Public/44/INDICE.HTM John Carrasquillo" Peaceful Valley Farm Supply - Organic Garden and Farm Supplies http://www.groworganic.com/ --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) None, this time --NAFEX List Rooting hormones nafex@egroups.com "Hortus" Re: Rooting hormones jhecksel@voyager.net Rooting hormones "Hortus" Rooting hormones ... a few more comments "Hortus" --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Durian, soil aeration, compost, and worms Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Seeds for Sale or Trade jim&meredith west-foyle Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Golden Harvest fertilizer, With Gibberellic Acid! J. Rosano II Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Mamones and Tapioca - Cautionary Note! "Paul Burgess" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Tapioca, Yucca, Recipe "Ronald Millet" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Seed importation - Fungicides "J. Rosano II" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Importing Seeds - Information Console IIci Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Miracle fruit - Miraculous Properties "Erica Lynne" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Spinosad Zaps Mediterranean Fruit Fly "ARS News Service" ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, Looking For Star Fruit Tree Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 01:56:27 -0500 From: al pergande Hi - please add me to your mailing list. I am Al Pergande in Orlando, Fla I have some citrus (Navel & Page Orange, Limequat & lemon), and am looking for a Star Fruit tree, preferable in the Orlando area. I found a place in Miami, but I hate to drive a tree 250 miles on the freeway. Thanks Al Pergande mailto:al@ink19.com Subject: New Subscriber, CA, Growing Papayas; Interested In Mangos and Bananas Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:42:15 EDT From: Gus Olson Dear Mr. Manuel: I'd like to subscribe to your newsletter. Currently I am growing papayas (Mexican and Solo), Also, I am interested in growing mangoes and bananas. Thanks, Gus Olson mailto:GusOlson@aol.com Subject: New Subscriber, CA, (Near Salton Sea) Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 16:50:07 EDT From: Felix Mercado Hi, I am Felix H. Mercado in North Shore, Calif. (Salton Sea area) I am growing: Mango and citrus varieties. Other misc. tropical fruits. Interested in edible landscaping. Desert area, (banana belt). Also interested in edible landscaping for mountain area; San Jacinto mountains, 4500 feet. Felix Mercado mailto:Felmar1@aol.com Subject: New Subscriber, Moorpark, CA; Too Cold For Some Rare Fruit Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 07:14:14 -0700 From: Michael Zarky Hi, I am Michael Zarky, in Moorpark, California Fruit trees I am growing: Jobaticaba; cherimoya; pitanga; Cherry of the Rio Grande; Grumichama; Papaya; Canistel; Passionfruit; Banana; White Sapote; [citrus, pome, and stone fruit] It is a little too cold here for a lot of what I grow. Michael Zarky mailto:mzarky@earthlink.net Subject: New Subscriber, Mountain View, CA; Can I Grow Mango? Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 14:08:44 -0700 From: Elaine Lee Dear Leo: Please add me to your mailing list. I am interested in growing kiwi, strawberry guava, and would love to grow mango (is it really possible??). I have planted: Apples, Superfin pear, peaches, avocado, lemon, Buddha's hand citron, and Kaffir lime. Thank you and I look forward to sharing your thoughts about growing rare fruits! Regards, Elaine of Mountain View, California mailto:loulee@sirius.com -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 21:13:44 -0800 From: Sven Merten To: markpresky@worldnet.att.net Hi Mark, I bought one up your way from a nursery, but I don't remember the name. $5 for a 1 gal. You might try calling some of the nurseries listed on the CRFG.org site and see if they know of a nursery near you that would have one. If you ever come to Orange county I have a 1 gal seedling I could give you. Good luck. Sven Merten mailto:scoutdog@pacbell.net Mark Presky wrote: Leo, Hello. Several months ago I mentioned that I was having difficulty finding a Surinam Cherry. I'm still interested if someone has a lead for me. I would like to avoid being gouged, and, if possible to find one within an hour's drive of West LA. Thanks for your help. Mark Presky mailto:markpresky@worldnet.att.net Subject: Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2000 19:15:25 -0700 From: Mark Presky Leo, Thank you for the reply. A while back I discovered that none of the local nurseries I checked had the Surinam Cherry. I did find one in the San Fernando Valley that wanted $45 for a small, one gallon plant. I would be happy to hear from any members/subscribers who live in my locale (West LA/Santa Monica) who know of a place nearby from which I can obtain the plant at a reasonable price. Thanks. Mark Presky mailto:markpresky@worldnet.att.net Subject: Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 14:16:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Eunice Messner To: Mark Presky Mark... You may want to consider buying a named variety of Surinam cherry. Seedlings seldom are as desirable as a named cultivar. Two Florida introductions,'Lorver' and 'Vermillion' are orange/red and taste similar to a nectarine. A black California one, more reminiscent of cherries, is "Westree 369'. I have two large fruited, black ones from Hawaii but they most often have that undesirable aftertaste. Have you inquired of Dave Silber at Papaya Tree Nursery? 818 362-3680? He is in Granada Hills. Eunice Messner Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com Subject: Re: Still Looking For Surinam Cherry Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 13:35:18 -0700 From: Mark Presky To: scoutdog@pacbell.net Dear All, Thank you for the info. Sven, I will check out the link to nurseries later. Eunice, I did call Papaya Tree Nursery. I had called them for other plants a few years ago, and found them quite expensive. Apparently they haven't changed. I called them yesterday, and was quoted $55 for a 5 gal Surinam Cherry. 5 gal is the only size they have. I won't spend $55 for the Surinam. I trust you all agree. It must be available within 30 minutes of me for less. If you hear of any leads keep me posted. Again, thanks. Mark Presky mailto:markpresky@worldnet.att.net Subject: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? From: Leo To: Alan Smith To: Good morning Leo, These cuttings are the same price as a plant @$15.00, only shipping will be a little less. I have grown these from seed,purchased in NY. Cordially Alan Smith mailto:zambesi@gte.net Subject: Re: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:59:18 -0700 From: Alan Smith To: Leo Hello Leo, I do not have a Web page and rarely advertise. Cordially Alan Smith mailto:zambesi@gte.net Subject: Re: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 08:32:43 -0700 From: Alan Smith To: Leo Dear Leo, Thank you, I forgot to mention I have Acacia maidenii (Oz),and new Passionfruit P.edulis from China, "SatinGold",it has a matte shell and the fruit weight is superior to any other I have seen . Regards Alan Smith mailto:zambesi@gte.net Subject: Re: Pitaya Amarilla (Selenicereus Megalanthus); Have Cuttings To Sell? Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 22:59:18 -0700 From: Alan To: Leo Hello Leo, I do not have a Web page and rarely advertise. Cordially Alan Smith mailto:zambesi@gte.net Subject: Horseradish-Noni Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2000 09:24:51 -0700 From: Alan Smith To: Leo Good morning Leo, Happy to know they arrived sooner than anticipated. I have a few Horseradish trees @$25.00, Noni plants @$20.00 and a new Passiflora Edulis "Satin Gold" from China, it has a Matte Yellow shell and weighs almost 1/3 more than comparative fruits @$20.00. I should have M.Michelia alba latter in the year, also Gingko biloba as I hope to root the cuttings. I also have Thornless Kaffir Limes, Orangelo for NON Citrus producing States. Cordially Alan Smith mailto:zambesi@gte.net Subject: Help! I Can't View "Rare Fruit News Online" Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 09:52:19 -0400 From: Roger E Bove Can't you do something about this character set problem? Here's what my mail reader says: > This message uses a character set that is not supported by the Internet > Service. To view the original message content, open the attached > message. If the text doesn't display correctly, save the attachment to > disk, and then open it using a viewer that can display the original > character set. << File: message.txt >> Roger E Bove mailto: rbove@wcupa.edu Subject: Re: Help! I Can't View "Rare Fruit News Online" Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 08:32:32 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: "Bove, Roger E." Hi Roger, I have not had feedback from any of the more than 400 readers that there is a problem in reading the newsletter. I'll send another copy. Leo Subject: Bananas Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 14:23:45 -0700 From: Matthew Shugart In response to Bob's message to Nan, reprinted below, I am surprised to see Goldfinger mentioned as requiring support. I have a nice stand of Goldfinger and the trunks are so stout that they never need support. The location where I have mine gets a good degree of wind, but it's never a problem. Right now I have a stalk with probably 30+ lbs. of fruit about to ripen, and the stalk is leaning no more than maybe 15 degrees or so. I have them near a wall and have put up hooks with which to tie them up, but have never needed to. I do have to keep my Ice Cream tied up, though, or they would wind up in my neighbor's driveway. I'm also surprised that Nan has to worry about 30 degree temperatures. Must be quite a low spot! My 'record" is 33.5. Matthew Shugart mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Subject: Moringa Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 20:13:18 -0700 From: Gladys Baird More on the Moringa - I guess the original article on the front page of the LA Times has attracted a lot of attention. Below is an article from today's (6 April 2000) edition of the LA Times: Thursday, April 6, 2000 Tree With 'Rare Power' Is a Rarity Here By ROBERT SMAUS, Times Garden Editor The phone hasn't stopped ringing with the question "Where can I get a moringa tree?" since a story, "A Common Tree With Rare Power," appeared in the March 27 edition of The Times. When I went to the nursery this past weekend, the sales staff asked me, "What is this moringa tree that everyone is asking us about?" Also known by its common names of malunggay, drumstick plant, ben tree, benzolive, and horseradish tree, Moringa oleifera--to call it by its proper botanic name--is a common tree, native to northern India and found throughout the tropics. As the Page 1 story pointed out, the tree is used for everything from a coagulant to clearing muddy water to serving as a food and oil source. In developing countries, it is often planted just outside a home's backdoor. On the Web, there are many references to moringa and its uses, including one site, http://www. echonet.org, that offers a cookbook called "Learn to Eat Moringa" (write to ECHO, 17391 Durrance Road, North Ft. Myers, FL 33917-2239) . To answer everyone's questions, there are no local sources of the Moringa oleifolia (oleifolia means the leaves are olive-like) so it's not really a landscape plant. But there is a tree growing at the University of Arizona in Tucson. Seeds have been harvested by Gene Joseph and Jane Evans of Living Stones Nursery, also in Tucson, and they offer seedlings in 3-inch pots, through the mail (each costs about $10). They are on the Web at http://www.lithops.net or write to them at 2936 N. Stone Ave., Tucson, AZ 85705. Evans told me that they grow the moringa as a bonsai subject, because it has a neat swollen base when it is young. She said the full-size tree at the University of Arizona is rather nondescript and the literature suggests it only lives for about 20 years anyway. But I guess if you need to clear muddy water. . . . Gladys Baird mailto:tokiko@incom.net Subject: Sapodilla, mamey sapote, caimito Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 15:20:48 -0700 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Matthew Shugarg Hi Matthew, Just a comment on the fruit you tried on your Florida trip. The sapodilla will probably survive So. Calif. winters and is worth trying, but go with a grafted tree, seedlings are rumored to not fruit sometimes. The mamey sapote may survive our winters, but I'm not sure how well it will fruit. The caimito is difficult and I don't think it will survive outside without a really good, frost free spot. One place to get grafted trees is Frankie's Nursery. If you want a price list, Leo should have one, or call Frankie in Waimanolo, Oahu at (808) 259-8737. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com Subject: How big does surinam cherry grow? Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 22:39:27 -0700 From: Nan Sterman Hi Leo and readers -- I have a couple of vermillion surinam cherry plants that I grew from seed. How large should I expect them to grow? Thanks Nan Sterman San Diego County CA Sunset zone 24, USDA Zone 10b or 11 Subject: Re: How big does surinam cherry grow? Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 05:41:57 -0700 From: Leo To: Nan Sterman Hi Nan, I also have the Vermillion pitanga or surinam cherry, and they will become a small tree, probably 10 - 15 feet, depending on the soil conditions. However, they can be pruned to be kepsmaller, if you wish. I especially like the taste of Vermillion. I will publish your letter for others to respond. Horticordially, Leo Subject: RE: Miracle Fruit Care Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 04:30:51 -0400 From: Erica Lynne To: Leo Hi Leo, I can't remember a discussion of miracle fruit, but I've only been on the list for a year or so. Our local experts, David and Jenny Burd, gave me the following suggestions about miracle fruit: 1. Likes to be root bound, so keep in a pot. 2. Likes acid, so use peat moss. 3. Likes iron, so stick some rusty nails in the soil. Here in the very hot Florida sun, I have noticed that my plant does better in part shade. It gets morning sun. It is about 4 feet tall, flowers profusely and sets fruit well. It is in a 3 gallon pot. I water with town water. I don't know what is in it, but it tastes bad enough that I buy bottled water to drink. It is very slow-growing. It tolerated near-freezing temperatures one night with only slight leaf damage. There isn't a sensitive plant in the world that can exist in my care. I love my plants, trees and gardens, but I am not fussy about care. I even accidentally poured concentrated micro-element solution on the miracle fruit plant and there were no noticable effects. Good luck. Erica -----Original Message From Leo----- Hi Erica, I have a small Miracle Fruit bush and have heard that they are extremely sensitive to soil and water. I was advised to only use rain water or distilled water, for example. San Diego water is hard, and probably somewhat alkiline. I was also advised to keep it in a pot, a short ten gallon size. What is your experience and recommendation? Leo in San Diego ------------------Announcements And Web Pages To Consider------------------ Subject: Barbados Cherry Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 12:20:09 -0700 From: Richard Himbarger Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Barbados Cherry aka Malpighia punicifolia L. and Malpighia glabra Millsp. The Barbados cherry, a member of the Malpighiaceae, is an interesting example of a fruit that rose, like Cinderella, from relative obscurity about 40 years ago. It was at that time the subject of much taxonomic confusion, having been described and discussed previously under the binomial Malpighia glabra L., which properly belongs to a wild relative inhabiting the West Indies, tropical America and the lowlands of Mexico to southern Texas, and having smaller, pointed leaves, smaller flowers in peduncled umbels, styles nearly equal, and smaller fruits. M. Punicifolia L. (M. glabra Millsp. NOT Linn.) has been generally approved as the correct botanical name for the Barbados cherry, which is also called West Indian cherry, native cherry, garden cherry, French cherry; in Spanish, acerola, cereza, cereza colorada, cereza de la sabana, or grosella; in French, cerisier, cerise de St. Domingue; in Portuguese, cerejeira. The name in Venezuela is semeruco, or cemeruco; in the Netherlands Antilles, shimarucu; in the Philippines, malpi (an abbreviation of the generic name). Plate XXV: BARBADOS CHERRY, Malpighia punicifolia Description The Barbados cherry is a large, bushy shrub or small tree attaining up to 20 ft (6 m) in height and an equal breadth; with more or less erect or spreading and drooping, minutely hairy branches, and a short trunk to 4 in (10 cm) in diameter. Its evergreen leaves are elliptic, oblong, obovate, or narrowly oblanceolate, somewhat wavy, 3/4 to 2 3/4 in (2-7 cm) long, 3/8 to 1 5/8 in (9.5-40 mm) wide, obtuse or rounded at the apex, acute or cuneate at the base; bearing white, silky, irritating hairs when very young; hairless, dark green, and glossy when mature. The flowers, in sessile or short-peduncled cymes, have 5 pink or lavender, spoon-shaped, fringed petals. The fruits, borne singly or in 2's or 3's in the leaf axils, are oblate to round, cherry-like but more or less obviously 3-lobed; 1/2 to 1 in (1.25-2.5 cm) wide; bright-red, with thin, glossy skin and orange-colored, very juicy, acid to subacid, pulp. The 3 small, rounded seeds each have 2 large and 1 small fluted wings, thus forming what are generally conceived to be 3 triangular, yellowish, leathery-coated, corrugated inedible "stones". Origin and Distribution The Barbados cherry is native to the Lesser Antilles from St. Croix to Trinidad, also Curacao and Margarita and neighboring northern South America as far south as Brazil. It has become naturalized in Cuba, Jamaica and Puerto Rico after cultivation, and is commonly grown in dooryards in the Bahamas and Bermuda, and to some extent in Central and South America. The plant is thought to have been first brought to Florida from Cuba by Pliny Reasoner because it appeared in the catalog of the Royal Palm Nursery for 1887-1888. It was carried abroad rather early for it is known to have borne fruit for the first time in the Philippines in 1916. In 1917, H.M. Curran brought seeds from Curacao to the United States Department of Agriculture. (S.P.I. #44458). The plant was casually grown in southern and central Florida until after World War II when it became more commonly planted. In Puerto Rico, just prior to that war, the Federal Soil Conservation Department planted Barbados cherry trees to control erosion on terraces at the Rio Piedras Experiment Station. During the war, 312 seedlings from the trees with the largest and most agreeably-flavored fruits were distributed to families to raise in their Victory Gardens. Later, several thousand trees were provided for planting in school yards to increase the vitamin intake of children, who are naturally partial to the fruits. An explosion of interest occurred as a result of some food analyses being conducted at the School of Medicine, University of Puerto Rico, in Rio Piedras in 1945. The emblic (Emblica officinalis L.) was found to be extremely high in ascorbic acid. This inspired one of the laboratory assistants to bring in some Barbados cherries which the local people were accustomed to eating when they had colds. These fruits were found to contain far more ascorbic acid than the emblic, and, because of their attractiveness and superior eating quality, interest quickly switched from the emblic to the Barbados cherry. Much publicity ensued, featuring the fruit under the Puerto Rican name of acerola. A plantation of 400 trees was established at Rio Piedras in 1947 and, from 1951 to 1953, 238 trees were set out at the Isabela Substation. By 1954, there were 30,000 trees in commercial groves on the island. Several plantings had been made in Florida and a 2,000-acre (833-ha) plantation in Hawaii. There was a great flurry of activity. Horticulturists were busy making selections of high-ascorbic-acid clones and improving methods of vegetative propagation, and agronomists were studying the effects of cultural practices. Smaller plantings were being developed in Jamaica, Venezuela, Guatemala, Ghana, India, the Philippines and Queensland, Australia, and even in Israel. Many so-called "natural food" outlets promoted various "vitamin C" products from the fruitsÐpowder, tablets, capsules, juice, sirup. At length, enthusiasm subsided when it was realized that a fruit could not become a superstar because of its ascorbic acid content alone; that ascorbic acid from a natural source could not economically compete with the much cheaper synthetic product, inasmuch as research proved that the ascorbic acid of the Barbados cherry is metabolized in a manner identical to the assimilation of crystalline ascorbic acid. The large plantation of the Hawaiian Acerola Company (a subsidiary of Nutrilite Products Company) was abandoned for this reason, and low fruit yields; and, so it is said, the low ascorbic acid content because of the high copper levels in the soil. Puerto Rican production was directed thereafter mainly to the use of the fruit in specialty baby foods. Frozen fruits are shipped to the United States for processing. Varieties In 1956, workers at the University of Florida's Agricultural Research and Education Center in Homestead, after making preliminary evaluations and selections, chose as superior and named the 'Florida Sweet', a clone that was observed to have an upright habit of growth, large fruits, thick skin, apple-like, semi-sweet flavor, and high yield. The first promising selections in Puerto Rico, on the bases of fruit size, yield and vitamin content, were identified as 'A-l' and 'B-17', but these were later found to be inferior to 'B-15' in ascorbic acid level and productivity. Yields of 10 clones ('A-l', 'A-2', 'A-4', 'A-10', 'A-21', 'B-2', 'B-9', 'B-15', 'B-17', and 'K-7') were compared over a 2-year period (1955-56) in Puerto Rico and 'B-15' far exceeded the others in both years. A horticultural variety in St. Croix, formerly known as M. thompsonii Britton & Small, has displayed unusually large leaves and fruits and more abundant flowers than the common strain of Barbados cherry. Climate The Barbados cherry can be classed as tropical and subtropical, for mature trees can survive brief exposure to 28¼ F (-2.22¼ C). Young plants are killed by any drop below 30¼ F (-1.11¼ C). It is naturally adapted to both medium- and low-rainfall regions; can tolerate long periods of drought, though it may not fruit until the coming of rain. Soil The tree does well on limestone, marl and clay, as long as they are well drained. The pH should be at least 5.5. Elevation to 6.5 significantly improves root development. Acid soils require the addition of lime to avoid calcium deficiency and increase yield. The lime should be worked into the soil to a depth of 8 in (20 cm) or more. Propagation If seeds are used for planting, they should be selected from desirable clones not exposed to cross-pollination by inferior types. They should be cleaned, dried, and dusted with a fungicide. It should also be realized that the seeds in an individual fruit develop unevenly and only those that are fully developed when the fruit is ripe will germinate satisfactorily. Germination rates may be only 50% or as low as 5%. Seedlings should be transferred from flats to containers when 2 to 3 in (5-7.5 cm) high. Air-layering (in summer) and side-veneer, cleft, or modified crown grafting are feasible but not popular because it is so much easier to raise the tree from cuttings. Cuttings of branches 1/4 to 1/2 in (6-12.5 mm) thick and 8 to 10 in (20-25 cm) long, with 2 or 3 leaves attached, hormone-treated and set in sand or other suitable media under constant or intermittent mist, will root in 60 days. They are then transplanted to nursery rows or containers and held in shade for 6 months or a year before being set out in the field. Some fruits will be borne a year after planting but a good crop cannot be expected until the 3rd or 4th year. The tree will continue bearing well for about 15 years. There is a lapse of only 22 days between flowering and complete fruit maturity. Grafting is generally practiced only when cuttings of a desired clone are scarce or if a nematode-resistant rootstock is available on which to graft a preferred cultivar; or when top-working a tree that bears fruits of low quality. Culture The Barbados cherry tree will grow and fruit fairly well with little care. For best performance, Puerto Rican agronomists have recommended a fertilizer formula of 8-8-13 twice annually for the first 4 years at the rate of 1/2 to 1 lb (0.22-0.45 kg). Older trees should have 3 to 5 lbs (1.35-2.25 kg) per tree. In addition, organic material should be worked into the planting hole and also supplied in amounts of 10 to 20 lbs (4.5-9 kg) per tree. Under Florida conditions, a 10-10-10 formula is given in February, 1 lb (0.22 kg) for each year of growth. In May, July and September, a 4-7-5-3 formula is recommended, 1 lb (0.22 kg) for each year of age up to the 10th year. Thereafter, a 6-4-6-3 mixture is givenÐ5 lbs (2.25 kg) per tree in late winter and 10 lbs (4.5 kg) per tree for each of the summer feedings. On limestone soils, sprays of minor elementsÐcopper, zinc, and sometimes manganeseÐwill enhance growth and productivity. Young trees need regular irrigation until well established; older trees require watering only during droughts. Mature plants will bear better if thinned out by judicious pruning after the late crop and then fertilized once more. Pollination and Fruit Set In Florida, bees visit Barbados cherry flowers in great numbers and are the principal pollinators. Maintenance of hives near Barbados cherry trees substantially improves fruit set. In Hawaii, there was found to be very little transport of pollen by wind, and insect pollination is inadequate. Consequently, fruits are often seedless. Investigations have shown that growth regulators (IBA at 100 ppm; PCA at 50 ppm) induce much higher fruit set but these chemicals may be too costly to buy and apply. Season In Florida, the Bahamas, Puerto Rico and Hawaii the fruiting season varies with the weather. There may be a spring crop ripening in May and then successive small crops off and on until December, but sometimes, if spring rains are lacking, there may be no fruits at all until December and then a heavy crop. In Zanzibar, the bearing season is said to be just the months of December and January. Harvesting For home use, as dessert, the fruits are picked when fully ripe. For processing or preserving, they can be harvested when slightly immature, when they are turning from yellow to red. As there is continuous fruiting over long periods, picking is done every day, every other day, or every 3 days to avoid loss by falling. The fruits are usually picked manually in the cool of the early morning, and must be handled with care. For immediate processing, some growers shake the tree and allow the ripe fruits to fall onto sheets spread on the ground. Harvested fruits should be kept in the shade until transferred from the field, which ought to be done within 3 hours, and collecting lugs are best covered with heavy canvas to retard loss of ascorbic acid. Yield There is great variation in productivity. Individual trees may yield 30 to 62 lbs (13.5-28 kg) in Puerto Rico. In Jamaica, maximum yield in the 6th year is about 80 lbs (36 kg) per tree; 24,000 lbs/acre (24,000 kg/ha). Venezuelan growers have reported 10 to 15 tons/ha; the average in Puerto Rico is 25 tons/ha/yr. 'Florida Sweet' in Florida has yielded 65 tons/ha. A plot of 300 trees of 'Florida Sweet' has borne crops of 6,300 to 51,300 lbs (2,858-23,270 kg) of fruit from March to November, in Homestead, Florida. In Puerto Rico, a planting of 200 trees may be expected to produce 3,600 to 5,400 lbs (1,636-2,455 kg) of juice. From the juice there can be extracted at least 120 lbs (54.5 kg) of vitamin C expressed as dehydroascorbic and ascorbic acid, providing the content is determined to be 2%. In Puerto Rico, it is calculated that 10 tons of fruit should yield 435 lbs (197 kg) ascorbic acid. In a commercial operation using ion-exchange resins, the yield of ascorbic acid from Barbados cherry juice is expected to be about 88%. Keeping Quality Ripe Barbados cherries bruise easily and are highly perishable. Processors store them for no more than 3 days at 45¼ F (7.22¼ C). Half-ripe fruits can be maintained for a few more days. If longer storage is necessary, the fruits must be frozen and kept at 10¼ F (-12.22¼ C) and later thawed for use. At one time it was believed that the fruits could be transported to processing plants in water tanks (as is done with true cherries) but it was discovered that they lose their color and ascorbic acid content in water. At room temperatureÐ85¼ F (29.44¼ C) in Puerto RicoÐcanned Barbados cherries and also the juice lose color and fresh flavor and 53% to 80% of their ascorbic acid content in one month, and metal cans swell because of the development of CO2. Refrigeration at 44.6¼ F (7¼ C) considerably reduces such deterioration. Juice in the home refrigerator will lose 20% of its ascorbic acid in 18 days. Therefore, the juice and the puree should be kept no longer than one week. Pests and Diseases One of the major obstacles to successful cultivation of the Barbados cherry is the tree's susceptibility to the root-knot nematode, Meloidogyne incognita var. acrita, especially in sandy acid soils. Soil fumigation, mulching and regular irrigation will help to keep this problem under control. The burrowing nematode, Radopholus similis, is also a cause of decline in otherwise healthy trees. In Florida, the foliage is attacked by wax scale, Florida mango scale, and other scale insects, whiteflies, a leaf roller, and aphids. In Guatemala, the aphid, Aphis spiraecola, attacks the leaves and young, tender branches. This pest and the Hesperid caterpillar, Ephyriades arcas, require chemical control. In Puerto Rico, the tree is often damaged by the blue chrysomelid of acerola, Leucocera laevicollis. Some fruits may be malformed but not otherwise affected by the sting of stinkbugs. None of these predators is of any great importance. The major pest in Florida is the Caribbean fruit fly, Anastrepha suspensa, which seems to attack all but very sour fruits and the larvae are commonly found inside. In Guatemala, a fruit worm, Anthonomus florus, deposits its eggs in the floral ovary and also in the fruits; the larvae feed in the fruits causing deformity and total ruin. Drastic control measures have been employed against this predator, including the incineration of all fallen, infested fruits and the elimination of all related species that serve as hosts. Few diseases have been reported. However, in Florida, there are cases of anthracnose caused by Colletotrichum gloeosporioides, and leafspotting by the fungus, Cercospora bunchosiae, is a serious malady in Florida, Puerto Rico and Hawaii. Green scurf, identified with the alga, Cephaleuros virescens, occurs in Puerto Rico. Food Uses Barbados cherries are eaten out-of-hand, mainly by children. For dessert use, they are delicious merely stewed with whatever amount of sugar is desired to modify the acidity of the particular type available. The seeds must be separated from the pulp in the mouth and returned by spoon to the dish. Many may feel that the nuisance is compensated for by the pleasure of enjoying the flavorful pulp and juice. Other-wise, the cooked fruits must be strained to remove the seeds and the resulting sauce or puree can be utilized as a topping on cake, pudding, ice cream or sliced bananas, or used in other culinary products. Commercially prepared puree may be dried or frozen for future use. The fresh juice will prevent darkening of bananas sliced for fruit cups or salads. It can be used for gelatin desserts, punch or sherbet, and has been added as an ascorbic acid supplement to other fruit juices. The juice was dried and powdered commercially in Puerto Rico for a decade until the cost of production caused the factory to be closed down. The fruits may be made into sirup or, with added pectin, excellent jelly, jam, and other preserves. Cooking causes the bright-red color to change to brownish-red. The pasteurization process in the canning of the juice changes the color to orange-red or yellow, and packing in tin cans brings on further color deterioration. Enamel-lined cans preserve the color better. Wine made from Barbados cherries in Hawaii was found to retain 60% of the ascorbic acid. Food Value Per 100 g of Edible Portion* Calories59 Moisture 81.9-91.10 g Protein 0.68-1.8 g Ether Extract 0.19-0.09 g Fiber 0.60-1.2 g Fat 0.18-0.1 g Carbohydrates 6.98-14.0 g Ash 0.77-0.82 g Calcium 8.2-34.6 mg Phosphorus 16.2-37.5 mg Iron 0.17-1.11 mg Carotene 0.003-0.408 mg (Vitamin A) 408-1000 I.U. Thiamine 0.024-0.040 mg Riboflavin 0.038-0.079 mg Niacin 0.34-0.526 mg Ascorbic Acid** *According to analyses made in Hawaii, Guatemala, and elsewhere. **According to analyses at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology of fruits grown in Barbados: 4,500 mg (green), 3,300 mg (medium-ripe), 2,000 mg (very ripe). The ascorbic acid level of unripe fruits can range up to 4,676 mg and such ratings are exceeded only by the fruits (rose hips) of Rosa rugosa Thunb., which may have as much as 6,977 mg/100 g. This constituent varies as much as 25% with the clone, the locale, cultural methods and degree of exposure to sunlight during developmental stages and after harvesting. At INCAP (Instituto de Nutricion de Central America and Panama), in Guatemala assays in 1950-1955 showed distressingly low levelsÐan average of 17 mg/100 g, whereas fruits sent to INCAP by air and in dry ice from Florida were analyzed and contained 1,420 mg/100 g. In field experiments, treatment of young fruits on the tree with 200 ppm gibberellic acid has brought about a marked increase in the ascorbic acid content of the mature fruits. The ascorbic acid is not totally destroyed by heat, for the jelly may contain 499-1,900 mg/100 g. Of the total ascorbic acid in Barbados cherry juice, 0.18% is in the bound form. Other constituents include dextrose, levulose, and a little sucrose. Harmful Effects Physicians in Curacao report that children often require treatment for intestinal inflammation and obstruction caused by eating quantities of the entire fruits, including seeds, from the wild Barbados cherries which abound on the island. People who pick Barbados cherries without gloves and long sleeves may suffer skin irritation from contact with the minute stinging hairs on the leaves and petioles. Other Uses Bark: The bark of the tree contains 20-25% tannin and has been utilized in the leather industry. Wood: The wood is surprisingly hard and heavy. Trials have demonstrated that it refuses to ignite even when treated with flammable fluid unless perfectly dry. Medicinal Uses: The fruits are considered beneficial to patients with liver ailments, diarrhea and dysentery, as well as those with coughs or colds. The juice may be gargled to relieve sore throat. Richard Himbarger mailto:himbarger@jps.net Subject: Fruit Trees and Promising Crops of the Amazon Great Amazonian fruit site!!! Best Pics & Culture inf. In Spanish http://www.spt-tca.org/Public/44/INDICE.HTM Recommended by: John Carrasquillo 44 Frutales y Hortalizas Promisorios de la Amazonia - INDICE [44 Fruit Trees and Promising Crops of the Amazon - Index] Frutales: [Fruit Trees] Aguaje, Almendro, Anona, Araza, Asai, Babasu, Bacuri, Borojo, Caimitillo, Caimito, Camu Camu, Casta–a, Cocona, Copoasu, Cutite Grande, Granadilla De Olor, Guaba, Guanabana, Guanabana Cimarrona, Guarana, Huito, Inayuga, Indano Lucma, Lucuma, Mamey, Mangaba, Mara–on, Naranjilla, Palillo, Pijuayo, Pitanga, Pitomba, Sacha Guayaba, Sachamango, Sapucaia, Sorva Peque–a, Totai, Tucuma, Ubos, Umari, Ungurahui, Uvilla, Uxi, Zapote. Hortalizas: [Other Crops] Aji, Dale Dale, Jambu, „ame, Siuca Culantro, Uncucha, Zapallo. John Carrasquillo mailto:mdcarrasquillo@hotmail.com Subject: Peaceful Valley Farm Supply - Organic Garden and Farm Supplies http://www.groworganic.com/ Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 07:18:27 -0800 ------------------Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers)------------------ None this time ------------------NAFEX List ------------------ Subject: Rooting hormones Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 10:23:45 -0400 From: "Hortus" Tom, this is to reply to your question reprinted below: Our company is the maker of the rooting hormones which you list. Comprehensive information the products which you need and information on plant propagation from cuttings can be found by starting your research at http://www.rooting-hormones.com/sitemap.htm For the #12 3 use Rhizopon AA #1, #2 or #3 used by the dry dip method. (the 123 are not used to make a solution). For the IBA liquid dip use IBA Water Soluble Salts or Rhizopon AA Water Soluble Tablets. See the site for directions how to use and mix For Prunus use the long soak method or Rhizopon AA #3. Cutting back the base of the cutting is not necessary. Just make a straight cut and make 3/4 - 1 inch straight down knife cut wounds Order Rhizopon rooting products and IBA Water Soluble Salts or tablets from your local hort supplier. They should order from master distributor: Phytotronics 314-770-0717 USA (attn: James Grouzos) http://www.phytotronics.com mailto: sales@phytotronics.com One favorite Rhizopon Distributor is Hummert International 800-325-3055 (USA) 314-506-4500 (USA) Regards, JKroin mailto:jkroin@hortus.com http://www.rooting-hormones.com US Importer of Rhizopon Rooting Hormones Tom Said: Hello List, I am trying to root a peach cutting and ran into this statement; "To prepare the cuttings for rooting, wound by removing a shallow slice of bark 1 inch in length on two sides of the base of the cutting. Following this wounding, dip the wounded area of the cutting into an alcoholic solution of 2500 pm idolebutyric acid (IBA)." Now I know that IBA is rooting hormone (bottle tells me so), but what strength is 2500 pm? Is it a #1, #2, or #3? If it is none of them, can I make the solution with #1 or #2? I hope there is an IBA expert out there. Thanks again. Tom Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 13:19:32 -0700 From: jhecksel@voyager.net Subject: Re: Rooting hormones Hi JKroin: I too am interested in rooting hormones. One of the things that prevented me from purchasing them is that I read that IBA has a relatively short half-life (the time in which half the active ingredients are transmorgified into inactive species) ....something on the order of 3 months. The research indicates that half-life is a function of storage temperature. NAA has a much longer half-life but is not nearly as friendly as IBA. According to Michael Dirr, you have to nail the dosage and timing far more precisely if using NAA. IBA has a much wider range of activity. It is not uncommon for a range of 1000 ppm to 10,000 ppm to generate an acceptable rate of "takes". The rational for using the minimum acceptible level is more a matter of economics than a fear of "burning" the cuttings. So, in an ideal universe, enthusiasts would be able to order IBA products directly from the supplier. Thus bypassing hot warehouses, semi-trailers, parking lots and store shelves. (Hint, hint, hint). Subject: Rooting Hormones Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:42:28 -0400 From: "Hortus" Subject: rooting hormones Answer: In the original package the dry powder rooting hormones are most sensitive to temperate. At ambient temperatures (50-90F) the decay is likely one or at most a few % decay per year. At temperatures above 100F for extended times (a several months or years) the decay will likely be greater. In common use the most used dry powder concentratrations are 0.1% to 0.8% IBA. Therefore a small percentage decay on such a small active ingredient % will have almost no effect upon performance over several years of storage. Storage requirement: 1) light tight container 2) keep dry 3) keep temperature mostly at 80F or below 4) never return a used portion to the original container (avoids biological contamination). IF YOU TAKE A SMALL PORTION OF THE POWDER FROM THE ORIGINAL CONTAINER FOR USE NEVER RETURN IT TO THE ORIGINAL CONTAINER. You will drag in biological contaminants! In the case of rooting solutions the matter is different. After the solution is made it should only be used one time since it is sensitive to light and heat. Comment: >> NAA has a much longer half-life but is not nearly as friendly as IBA. >> Answer: If you follow the answer above it will apply to both IBA and NAA powders and solutions. NAA powders are not usually available even though our sister company, Rhizopon, manufactures them for specialty uses such as yucca propagation. Comment: >>According to Michael Dirr, you have to nail the dosage and timing far more precisely if using NAA. IBA has a much wider range of activity.>> Answer: IBA is the most commonly used plant rooting hormone. NAA has a limited number of plant varieties where it is essential for *commercial* propagation: for example yucca, wisteria and to a limited extent pointsetta. In solution: NAA is most often mixed with IBA and is rarely used on its own. NAA sometimes has a delaying effect with helps to enhance the action of the IBA. Comment: >>It is not uncommon for a range of 1000 ppm to 10,000 ppm to generate an acceptable rate of "takes". The rational for using the minimum acceptible level is more a matter of economics than a fear of "burning" the cuttings.>> Answer: In the case of plant rooting hormones the rule is *less is better*. IBA, NAA and IAA used in *too high* a concentration causes inhibition of root cell division and sometimes cell mortality. ALWAYS USE THE MINIMUM CONCENTRATION TO GET THE JOB DONE. Comment: >>So, in an ideal universe, enthusiasts would be able to order IBA products directly from the supplier. Thus bypassing hot warehouses, semi-trailors, parking lots and store shelves. (Hint, hint, hint).>> Answer: We sell our products thru local distributors. Often the smaller distributors do not wish to order the minimum quantities for stock. We have made an arrangement with our master distributor to sell minimum quantities where the grower does not have a local distributor/retailer. Regards, Joel Kroin mailto:jkroin@hortus.com Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 20:41:38 -0400 From: "Hortus" Subject: Rooting hormones ... a few more comments Often growers have misconceptions about what plant rooting hormones are and how they are used. Unfortunately there is very little correct information on this topic. One of the better books on this topic is Hartmann's Plant Propagation Principles and Practices. Dirr gives practical support but sadly he too relies upon sources which reference other souces. >From a practical standpoint, IBA dry powder either as a technical product or as a compound as ready made dry dip powders, is a very stable product. Our sister company, Rhizopon of Holland, has test data which supports the information which we gave to you * {re: life of the active ingredient} * . Unfortunately there are few sources of information on IBA stability since the process of assay is quite expensive and long term. Few researchers would care to spend the time and money to support this project. Only a maker such as Rhizopon has a real incentive. If you have specific questions about the use of plant rooting hormones, which are not addressed on our web site http://www.rooting-hormones.com please contact me directly regards Joel Kroin mailto:jkroin@hortus.com -------Discussion list for New Crops ------- None this time --------From "rarefruit list" - mailto:rarefruit@egroups.com-------- Subject: Re: Durian, soil aeration, compost, and worms Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 02:55:37 +0800 From: Greg Woolley Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com All, thanks very much for your informative replies and advice on growing durian. Also thanks Bob and others for your suggestions of building up organic matter and worms, am working on it now. (Bob, I didn't receive your post on this until second hand in a later post. A technical glitch it seems). Regarding the topic of soil, mine is plain sand and already has very good drainage. I have read that the more oxygen available to the roots of a plant, the more efficiently the plant can metabolize. So after my recent experience of seeing how poorly plants grow when their roots don't get enough oxygen, my aim now is to increase my garden's soil aeration even more (without sacrificing moisture retention). Had thought that digging compost into the soil would possibly close the pores and reduce drainage, so alternatively maybe just adding the compost to the surface of the soil is the best way to go? (I imagine clay soils would need different strategy). This way the worms will feed on the surface mulch and burrow into the sand, so increase soil aeration, drainage and fertility. I guess this is how tropical rain forests naturally work. >From what I have been reading, the compost worms (such as tiger, red, blue worms) are "surface dwellers" (ie do not burrow very deeply), thus they don't contribute a whole lot to soil drainage and aeration. Apparently for this we need "topsoil dwelling" and "deep burrowing" earthworms. These will burrow into the deeper levels of the soil, thereby improve soil aeration and structure. There is a species of top soil dwelling European grey worm called the "Aporrectodea caliginosa" and it burrows down 20 cms or so. I think this grey worm has naturalized itself in many countries now. As an experiment to see the effect that root oxygenation has on plant growth, I have put my long suffering durian and rambutan (which at the nursery had been potted in a dense clay like medium with almost zero aeration) into containers of expanded clay and perlite (excellent root aeration), and am feeding them hydroponically. It will be interesting to see if the extra oxygenation of the roots results in faster and healthier growth. I wonder what type of earthworms are in tropical rain forests. I imagine there are all three types. Anyone know more about this? Anyone know if equatorial and tropical rain forest soils have super-duper excellent drainage and soil aeration? Types of earthworms:- http://www.crop.cri.nz/psp/articles/docs/worms/wormtype.htm http://www-crcslm.waite.adelaide.edu.au/worms.html Greg Woolley mailto:gregw@amitar.com.au Subject: Seeds for Sale or Trade Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 04:55:43 GMT From: "jim&meredith west-foyle" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Dear Bobby, I see that you feel that it is a good idea for those who have seeds to sell to post that info. Here is my list... I sell seeds per 100 seeds or per packet. A packet costs $5, and contains from 10 to 100 seeds, depending on the value of the seeds. Cost per 100 seeds is shown below. For a brief description of these fruits, & ordering information, see my webpage, http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/guaycuyacu/fruits_1.html Botanical name Common name Price per 100 seeds Aiphanes aculeata (caryotifolia) corozo 8 Annona muricata guanabana 5 Annona montana cherimoya de Bolivia 10 Antidesma bunis bignay 6 Artocarpus hybrid (hetero. x integer) jakfruit hybrid 30 Artocarpus odoratissimus marang 25 Averrhoa bilimbi bilimbi 15 Averrhoa carambola carambola 15 Baccaurea dulcis menteng 25 Baccaurea macrocarpa tampoi 25 Bactris setulosa chontilla 10 Bixa orellana dwarf annatto 6 Borojoa patinoi borojo 6 Carica monoica col de monte 6 Chrysophyllum auratum caimito 15 Chrysophyllum venezolens caimito 15 Clavija spp. mongon 25 Costus guanaiensis var. macrostrobilus canahuate 5 Dovyalis hibrid Florida hybrid 15 Elettaria cardamomo cardamom 5 Eugenia stipitata araza 8 Eugenia uniflora pitanga 6 Eugenia victoriana guayabilla 8 Flacourtia indica governor1s plum 12 Garcinia (Rheedia) magnifolia madrono 15 Garcinia mangostana mangosteen 40 Garcinia prainiana cherapu 30 Garcinia sp. garcinia cereza 15 Herrania spp. cacao de monte 25 Inga spp. guabos 15 Lycopersicon pimpinellifolium chimbalo 5 Nephelium lappaceum rambutan 15 Parmentiera cerifera candle tree 5 Passiflora spp. passion fruits 20 Plinia cauliflora jaboticaba 8 Plukenetia volubilus ticazo 10 Posadaea sp. huevo de kinde 20 Pourouma cecropiifolia tree grape 12 Pouteria caimito abiu 40 Psidium angulatum guayaba agria 6 Psidium friedrichsthalianum cas guava 6 Psidium guineense guisaro 5 Quararibea mestonii sapote de monte 25 Quararibea obliquifolia sapote de monte 20 Raimondia sp. guanabana de monte 20 Rhodomyrtus tomentosa Ceylon hill cherry 5 Rollinia deliciosa anon 8 Salacca edulis salak 40 Santorium koetjape santol 20 Sicana odorifera giron 5 Solanum hirsutissimum naranjilla 5 Solanum sessiliflorum lulon 5 Theobroma angustifolia cacao de monte 30 Theobroma bicolor patas 30 Theobroma cacao cacao 15 Theobroma gileri cacao de monte 30 Theobroma glauca cacao de monte 30 Theobroma grandiflorum cupuassu 30 Theobroma subincanum cupui 30 Greetings to all. Sincerely, Jim & Meredith West-Foyle mailto:guaycuyacu@hotmail.com Subject: Golden Harvest Fertilizer - With Gibberellic Acid! Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 20:33:27 -0400 From: "J. Rosano II" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hi Tom, There's this real neat product called Golden Harvest fertilizer, which contains a good amount of Gibberellic acid. I have used this with seeds and have had some great success. Like Sven mentions: a large quantity of GA is a lifetimes supply but a GA that has the bonus benefit of being a fertilizer as well! The package says 1 & 1/2 tsp. per gal. I have done a 24 hr soak with "GH" on stubborn seed and had excellent results. For $16, not including shipping, makes over 50 gallons. If mixed in the suggested amount, I have found not only does it rejuvenate seed but also treats seedlings exceptional. And is a terrific fertilizer. http://www.ghorganics.com Hoping your seed pops! John Rosano II NH, Z-5/6 mailto:GIANNI-2@prodigy.net Subject: Re: Mamones and Tapioca - Cautionary Note! Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 22:02:57 EST From: "Paul Burgess" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Hello guys, Get as much info as you can about yuca before eating it. here in the caribbean it's better known as cassava. it's important to note that there are two varieties, i.e. "bitter" and "sweet". in both varieties the roots are eaten in various forms, however in the bitter, the fresh roots have to be ground up and washed free of the starch with water, leaving the edible "grounds". this is dried and made into a type of bread known in jamaica as "bammy" which is delicious when fried or baked. the starch is dried and becomes a powder which is used as laundry starch. it's difficult for the untrained eye to tell the sweet from the bitter. with the skin removed from the tuber, the bitter cassava appears pure white while the sweet is a creamish color. it can also be distinguished by taste, but that can be risky! i suggest that before you cook and eat your tubers you should get it tested because the bitter variety is poisonous. i'm not sure of the poisonous chemical - i think it's prussic acid. "the world book encyclopedia" says the poison is cyanide. the sweet cassava contains no poison and we eat it here like potatoes and also make bammys with it. it has a unique flavor and is considered a health food. tapioca comes from the tubers which is the only edible part of the plant, although i heard that in mexico they eat the leaves like spinach. you should use the tubers within 3-4 days as the very high starch content causes it to ferment and rot quickly. remember! the sweet cassava is perfectly safe, the bitter will make you sick if you don't process it! take care. Paul Burgess mailto:verpaul7@hotmail.com Subject: Tapioca, Yucca - and Recipe Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 21:27:23 -0700 From: Ronald Millet Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com The plant you are talking about (Yucca) is a staple starch of many tropical and subtropical societies. I have grown and eaten it when I was a Peace Corps volunteer in the Fiji Islands and plan on planting it again in replacement for potatoes on my farm in Hawaii this summer. It is a great plant as it is very easy to grow where it thrives. All you do is when you dig the mature roots you cut a 1 ft. section of the stalk and bury it 2/3rds to 3/4ths its length in the soil diagonally. Occasional hoeing and 4-6 months later you have another tapioca root. In the South Pacific it is called cassava or tavioca. Here's the best recipe for cassava I've ever eaten Fresh coconut milk 3 cups (from ripe mature nuts) A whole head of cabbage 1 5-10 lb tuna or snapper 6-8 cassava roots 1 onion 4-5 fresh lime or lemon pieces Boil the prepared fish in water 10-15 minutes, add the peeled yucca roots, let boil, add the cabbage in large pieces, add onion, at the very last add your coconut creme. Eat in big bowls with plenty of lime juice. The best way to get started growing it would be to get a box full of cuttings from someone and unfortunately that isn't me yet. Good luck:)) Ronald Millet mailto:wodwerking@earthlink.net Subject: Seed Importation - Fungicides Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 14:52:11 -0400 From: J. Rosano II Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com William: One suggestion I would make is to consider coco peat as it has a remarkable ability to ward off damping in the germination process. Seems to work well with fungicides as well. I've used a potpourri of fungicides and have had great luck with M-Pede a fungicide/pesticide that can be used on edibles right up to the day of harvest. Most commercial apps will give you knock down effect but then you will have to wait a bit to be sure the residuals are not present, some (cides) can take months to leach out to be considered safe for edibles. (Although this can be considerably reduced depending on product). Usually I do a 24 hr soak in Golden Harvest which contains Gibberellic acid, this gives the seed a fighting chance. Next as a measure of safety I hit my medium with M-Pede and then plant the seed. I use the GH one app on and then one app regular water alternating. This gives the seed a major boost and the GH is gentle on the starts and helps them to build an immunity to disease within it's own defense. Commercial app fungicides/cides can be found at any home depot/quarters or your local ag supply. If your like me and major in edibles and want the safeness in knowing that what you are using is organic and safe then M-Pede is what you want. I'm sure there are other products that are wonderful and organically safe but this is one I have used and can recommend. http://www.ghorganics.com Best of luck! John Rosano II mailto:GIANNI-2@prodigy.net NH, Z-5/6 Subject: Importing Seeds - Information Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 18:01:27 -0500 From: Bob Cannon Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com William, Most of the information you need is on the USDA web site [See http://www.aphis.usda.gov/ppq/ Plant Protection and Quarantine Home Page] but might be hard to isolate. It is relatively easy to get a permit, and the cost is nominal. I would contact the nearest port of entry with a USDA inspection office, they will usually answer questions and see that you can get the application. Of vital importance is to be sure that any seeds sent back are labeled properly and free of fruit reside, and insects/ disease. (If your packets are held for fumigation it is unlikely that any will survive. Proper cleaning and labeling help prevent this.) Some use a small amount of peat, check the current regulations. If you are going to be sent any amount it might be best to meet the seeds at their point of entry and try to walk them through (depends on the location and agent you speak with). Keep the group informed on your progress. Best of growing, Bob Cannon mailto:tfnews@gate.net http://www.gate.net/~tfnews Subject: Miracle Fruit - Miraculous Properties! Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 10:26:18 -0400 From: Erica Lynne Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com A couple of comments about miracle fruit: My own experience with the "miracle" of taste (which is, as John R states, miraculous), is that after the initial surprise, to me, the altered taste is reminiscent of nutrasweet. Miracle fruit has been found to stimulate the appetites of patients, with cancer, undergoing chemotherapy, or with AIDS, who have difficulty "making" themselves eat. The loss of appetite (and reduced nutrition) of these patients compromises their ability to heal. We had a local person with cancer and resultant loss of appetite. All the fruit club pitched in and donated miracle fruit, which stimulated this person's appetite to the point that he was able to eat enough to sustain himself through successful treatment. Miracle fruit can't cause miraculous healing, but it can contribute to helping the body be strong enough to heal itself. That is my main interest in it, being a hospice and symptom control nurse. Miracle fruit can be stored, fresh off the bush, in the freezer in an air tight container and will retain its taste-altering capabilities. Bon appetit! Erica Lynne mailto:ericalynne@mindspring.com -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov --- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Spinosad Zaps Mediterranean Fruit Fly! Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2000 08:43:39 -0400 From: "ARS News Service" An environmentally friendly insecticide called spinosad may become the weapon of choice for fighting insects such as the Mediterranean fruit fly, one of the world's worst agricultural pests. Medflies can attack more than 200 different kinds of fruits and vegetables and could adapt easily to life in warm-weather states like California, Texas and Florida. Agricultural Research Service entomologist Roger I. Vargas and colleagues in Hawaii are exploring spinosad's potential. They are with the agency's U.S. Pacific Basin Agricultural Research Center at Hilo. When applied at recommended rates, spinosad poses less risk than most insecticides to mammals, birds, fish and beneficial insects. Furthermore, spinosad is already approved for use on more than 100 crops. In coffee fields in Hawaii, the ARS scientists compared spinosad to malathion insecticide and to phloxine B, a dye that is also a promising alternative to malathion. Though malathion was the most effective, spinosad and phloxine B gave impressive levels of control. In addition, an important natural enemy of medfly--a small wasp known as Fopius arisanus--was significantly less susceptible to spinosad and phloxine B than to malathion. The reddish-brown and black wasp is harmless to humans. Spinosad or phloxine B may need to be applied more frequently than malathion, but the total amount of active ingredient released into the environment using spinosad or phloxine B would be far less, the research indicated. An article in the current issue of the agency's monthly magazine, Agricultural Research, tells more. View it on the World Wide Web at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/apr00/crop0400.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's main research wing. >>>>>>>>End: Rare Fruit News Online - April 15, 2000<<<<<<<<< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< >< Rare Fruit News Online - May 1, 2000 - AKA RFN20005A.txt --Notes In Passing I'm off to Missouri on May 1, so this issue of Rare Fruit News Online is being even more hastily assembled than usual. I apologize! Don't expect any quick answers to email written before the tenth of May, as I may not be able to respond before then. I'll be visiting my father, who will be ninety-four this October. ---------Table Of Contents - Headers; (Letters Follow Table Of Contents) --New Subscribers New Subscriber, CA, Has Cherimoya, White Sapote, etc., Wants Grafting Tips Alex Utas New Subscriber, Oregon, Growing Surprising Array Of Fruit! Brynda Johnstone New Subscriber, CA, Wants To Grow Cherry of the Rio Grande, Jaboticaba.... Akiva Werbalowsky "Akiva" --Readers Write Controlling Snails/Slugs William Evans Controlling Slugs/Snails Donohue, Nancy Surinam Cherry Nan Sterman California Mango Trees - For Florida Richard A. Johnston tisha@peganet.com Subject: Re: California Mango Trees - For Florida Leo Manuel Subject: Re: California Mango Trees - For Florida Richard A. Johnston Re: Richard A. Johnston tisha@peganet.com Leo Manuel Questions about growing seeds of Sorbus and Blueberry Dr. Sandhya Gupta Re: Questions about growing seeds of Sorbus and Blueberry Dr. Sandhya Gupta P. edulis Holzinger, Bob Re: Selenicereus/Hylocereus Kelsay Schroeder Re: Selenicereus megalanthus or Mediocactus coccinea var. xanthocarpa, etc. Kelsay Schroeder Re: Russia George F. Emerich CC: Alex Kolodejny --Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider Avocado, lychee, mango and rambutan - The Fruit Pages http://www.thefruitpages.com/avocadoes.shtml PLB143 Evolution of Crop Plants http://agronomy.ucdavis.edu/GEPTS/pb143/pb143.htm PLB143: Crop of the Day: Mango, Mangifera indica http://agronomy.ucdavis.edu/GEPTS/pb143/CROP/MANGO/mango.htm Climbing Cacti http://www.bgu.ac.il/life/mizrahi/article1.html Green thumbs tropical cacti garden 1 http://www.raingardens.com/gallery/njgallery/greenthumbscacti.html --Zingiber List (Bananas, Gingers) Banana Micropropagation Keith Benson DVM --NAFEX List Tree Size Control - Novel Ideas --From NEWCROPS List None, this time --From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@egroups.com Re: Research (On Guavas) C.J. Watson" Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Bixa orellana seed Bob Cannon II Reply-To: rarefruit@egroups.com Digging and Amending Planting Holes/What roots like Sven Merten -- Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars-news@arsgrin.gov -- http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None, this time ----------------New Subscribers------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, CA, Has Cherimoya, White Sapote, etc., Wants Grafting Tips Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2000 20:12:54 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: leom@rarefruit.com >From Alex Utas Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2000 21:38:33 -0700 Hi, I am Alex Utas in Venice, CA Fruit trees I am growing are: Cherimoya, White Sapote, Pummelo; also fig, apricot, lemon, orange, grapefruit. I'd like to get Fuyu Persimmon I am a beginning grafter, no success so far. I look forward to receiving the newsletter! Alex Utas mailto:alexutas@mediaone.net Subject: New Subscriber, Oregon, Growing Surprising Array Of Fruit! Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 17:17:14 -0700 From: Brynda Johnstone Hi, My name is Brynda Johnstone. I live in Camas Valley, Oregon. We are located in the coast range at 1000 ft. elevation. We're about 20 miles due west from I-5 freeway, west of Roseburg OR. I am currently growing cold hardy bananas, aronia, loquats, meyer lemons, figs, akebia, elderberry, chestnuts, sea buckthorn, two types of guava, quince, cornelian cherries, pomegranate, honeyberry, goumi, and other more typical fruits. Please include me in your list for the newsletter. Thank you. Brynda Johnstone mailto:angela@wmni.net Subject: New Subscriber, CA, Wants Info on Cherry of the Rio Grande, .... Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2000 16:36:12 GMT From: Akiva Werbalowsky Hi, I am Akiva Werbalowsky, in Ojai, CA Currently, I am growing mango, sapotes, avocados, prunus, longan, guavas, pomegranites, citrus, surinam cherry, cherry of the rio grande, jaboticaba, palms,... I'd be interested in any info about Cherry of the Rio Grande, jaboticaba, and carambola. I grow almost exclusively organically. Thank you so much! Akiva Werbalowsky mailto:akivaw@hotmail.com -----------------Readers Write------------------ Subject: snails/ slugs Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:14:47 -0700 From: William Evans To: Leo Leo, Have you tried' sluggo'-iron phosphate based slug snail bait that's also a fertilizer. Also a mulch w/ cocoa mulch is a fair deterrent. The sluggo kills em w/i a day or two.... disrupts there chemistry... much better for the soil( and earthworms) than regular snail bait poison.....my only worry would be for deccolate snails-if any are around- which prey on baby snail/slug and eggs.... ..... a midnight foray w/ a flashlight and bucket of soapy water can be most productive(Think Eco Tourism here-"UPick Snail farm just ahead!".... then there's the beer traps ... but what a waste.:> If you get a fifty pound sack thru Peaceful Valley Farm Supply it's much more economical. Two pound size is 17 bucks or so.. worked well at knocking down the numbers last year- we just have a few thousand square foot lot. Bill Evans mailto:williamevans@home.com Poway, California Subject: slugs/snails Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2000 16:06:27 -0400 From: "Donohue, Nancy" To: Leo Hi, The solution is - Vaseline. I have the same problem, and this works. Slugs + snails will not cross a vaseline border, so put a strip of foil around the bottom of the pot + smear it with vaseline. Don't put it directly on the pot since it will become messy in time and difficult to clean. This idea can be used anywhere, like around the bottom of trees for caterpillars (gypsy moths) just use cloth instead of foil. It's cheap enough so you can use all you want. Nancy Donohue mailto:Nancy.Donohue@medec.com Subject: Surinam Cherry Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 22:36:25 -0700 From: Nan Sterman To: markpresky@worldnet.att.net Mark -- I can't believe anyone would c