========================================== Rare Fruit News Online - All Year for 2006 ========================================== Rare Fruit News Online - January 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200601A.txt _____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> It's New Year's Eve and it is sprinkling rain. We haven't had much precipitation for a while, so I'm hoping.... Only one fruit remains on a Hylocereus pitaya - Paul Thomson's seedling 9-S. It should ripen in a few days. There are four fruit on two Yellow Pitaya (Selenicereus megalanthus). The time to ripen for Yellow Pitaya fruit after blooming is more than twice as long as for Hylocereus fruit. In 2003 it was five months after blooming (December 19) before the fruit was harvested on May 15, 2004. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Puerto Rico Luis Vega New Subscriber, California Ray Balcom New Subscriber, San Diego County Jim Hamilton <><><> Readers Write <><><> Strange Pitaya Behavior James Freedner How Bit The Tangelolo? N Sterman Re: Persimons Harvest pictures dracademia@aol.com What is Buddist Fruit Nrbpolish@aol.com <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Problem with longan tree in Florida Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Marcotting longan Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Re: Marcotting longan Leo Manuel To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Marcotting longan Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Lychee and Longan cultural requirements Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: William Butler Re: Longan questions Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: Charles Ferrin Re: cultivation techiques for different longan cultivars Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Marcotting longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Managing longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn More comments on marcorting Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Managing longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Re: Marcotting longan Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Longan Tree in Perth, Australia Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ic@ic-net.com.au <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Re: Moringa Pat Scott <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Puerto Rico Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 16:56:43 -0400 From: Luis Vega Leo: I have three acres close to El Yunque rain forest in the island of Puerto Rico. I would like to subscribe to your newsletter as I am interested on planting exotic tropical fruit trees and I need all the information I can get. Thank you for your help. Luis Vega ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, California Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 06:36:03 -0800 From: Ray Balcom Ray Balcom I would like to join or subscibe to the mailing list. I currently farm in Rainbow but live in Bay Area I have trial plantings of mango, lychee, pitanga, persimmon, quavas, black and white sapote, surinam cherry, citrus a Lam-Hass avocados - around 250 young trees I am interested in acquiring Indian mango varities and more info on local lychee culture I like to share challenges of using local well water and the use of data loggers to profile frost free areas and critter crop damage I look forward in sharing my experiences with others and developing a fruit co-op Thanks ! ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego County Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 09:44:10 -0800 From: Jim Hamilton To: leom@rarefruit.com Dear Leo, Happy holidays. Just before new year's 2006, I have resolved to join a fruit growing group. I have volunteer peach, avocado, pomegranate, and tomato plants that all produce fine fruit. Each plant has a story about its propagation. Gophers are my gardening bane and they have consumed this year's winter garden. Do you have any members in the Fallbrook-Bonsall area? Yours, in cultivation, Jim Hamilton <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Strange Pitaya Behavior Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 23:43:32 -0800 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo: An interesting thing's happening with my pitaya cactus! In November the plant had a single flower - probably the last of the season. I paid little attention to it - didn't try to pollinate it as it was too high up to reach. Flower stayed on the plant and it looks like a fruit is forming. Not sure how large it will get, maybe just a false hope, but of all the flowers I had this year - this one seems the most promising. Wonder if the cooler weather in November had anything to do with it? Never heard of this Moringa "horseradish tree" of which mention is made - although I might recognize the plant if I saw a photo. Perhaps a greenhouse or enclosed porch is needed to keep the plant going through the winters. California winters around here (San Fernando Valley) are probably just a little too cold to suit some of the more exotic tropicals. My papaya survives but does not seem "happy" and some years even the pitaya get frostbitten. Happy holidays! May the coming year bring you health and prosperity!! James Eric Freedner Sun Valley, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How Bit The Tangelolo? Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:31:32 -0800 From: N Sterman I just purchased a tangelolo - I am wondering how large I can expect the tree to get? Thanks! Nan ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Persimons Harvest pictures Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 19:47:19 -0500 From: dracademia@aol.com Thank you for the pictures. They look like professionally taken. You have a photographic talent. Hermie ------------------------------------------------ Subject: What is Buddist Fruit Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 20:37:12 -0500 (EST) From: Nrbpolish@aol.com Would like to find out about buddist hand. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: What is Buddist Fruit (Buddha's Hand) Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 21:46:33 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Nrbpolish@aol.com Search with Google for Buddha's Hand to get lots of information about this Citron Citrus with a strange shape. Leo <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 22:20:50 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Here in Hawaii we have the same problems fruiting lychees as you do. That is, they do not fruit consistently. Some years good, most years bad. Have experimented with girdling the trees with limited success. So I was wondering if the Thai farmers have had any new breakthroughs in getting lychee to fruit. I would be much obliged for any information you can give me. I am attaching two photos taken while I was at your farm. I thought you might like them. Warm greetings from Hawaii, Oscar Jaitt *********************************************************** Sainarong writes: Early this year I visited all the major lychee producing areas in China. The Chinese lychees, in my opinion, are the best in the world. They are really great. The Chinese growers all use girldling, and are satisfied with the result; of course, it is quite cool in China in winter. However, there are two important factors to be born in mind. The first one is that girdling must be done at exactly the right time. The second factor is that the leaves must be at the right stage of maturity at the onset of the cold spell (which is getting highly unpredictable these days). Because of global warming and the accompanying unpredictability of the weather, many Thai lychee growers are giving up growing lychees, while others are experimenting with tropical lychees which do not require such low temperature for flowering, and, moreover, flower early. A highly respected grower here has been spraying his lychees with crunched ice, with good result. He waits until the temperature reaches its nadir for the season, then he sprays his orchard at the coldest time of the day (which is about four AM) for about two or three days running. Thanks for the pictures. Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Problem with longan tree in Florida Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:11:02 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Longan is a subtropical tree. Under suitable climate, longan is a very hardy tree; it does not really need much care. Some cultivars are more suited to certain climate than others; Kohala is the most suitable cultivar for California and Florida. I am afraid I cannot constructively comment on your longan without more information, such as the cultivar, the location of your orchard (South, Central or North Florida), the type of soil, the irrigation, to think of a few. But if I am forced to comment, I would say that it is probably due to either under irrigation or over irrigation or water-logged ground. The second most probably cause is fungus. The third most probable cause is ants or other underground pests. The fourth most probable cause is insects or bugs. But I am probably talking through my hat. A wise friend of mine refuses to make any comment until she has visited the plot in person. I should take a leaf off her book. Have Fun! Sainarong Ed in Florida writes: I need some help on my longan tree ( airlayered ) 2nd year produced fruit; 3rd yr some fruit. Then had bugs on underside of leaves. I got rid of them. Then it started to lose older leaves (turned yellow). It is leggy now, but has new growth lower on trunk. What should I do to improve the tree? Should I cut back the top growth or not ? I need your help. Do you have any suggestions. Ed in Brandon FL USA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 23:06:30 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Sainarong Siripen Rasananda" Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 5:03 AM Subject: Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently > Sainarong, thank you for your reply. Glad you got to taste > those wonderful Chinese lychees. What was your favorite > variety(s)? Ans: I only tasted the early cultivars, so I am not in the position to comment meaningfully. I love them all, especially the ones on Hainan island; they have many great, relatively unknown cultivars there. I was lucky to be the guest of the universities everywhere I went, so I had the real experts accompanying me, and I tasted and saw only the very best. The lychees were unbelievable. ******************************************************** > "The second factor is that the >> leaves must be at the right stage of maturity at the >> onset of the cold spell " > > What stage do you mean? Just the fact that the tree is not > flushing new growth? Ans: Yes. But not only that, the leaves should be dark green at the time. I am purposely not specifying the number of days after flush because this may vary from cultivar to cultivar, and from environment to environment. *************************************************** > "He waits >> until the temperature reaches its nadir for the season, >> then he sprays his orchard at the coldest time of the day >> (which is about four AM) for about two or three days >> running." > > Do you know if he just sprays the ground with ice, or does > he spray the whole tree? Ans: I am pretty sure that he said that he sprayed the whole tree. However, I recall that some Aussies experimented with pouring dry ice on the ground beneath the canopy. My memory may fail me here, but I recall that the result was better than not putting any ice on; however, the result was not fantastic. It may be wrth your while trying out both methods. Merry Christmas, Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Marcotting longan Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 23:42:42 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Not really. Longan are generally quite easy to marcot and the success rate is quite high. You marcot it the same way as you marcot most trees. However, you should choose a good healthy branch which is not completely covered by growth in order to give it some sunlight. Does anybody have any comment or experience on this? I am sure many would like to hear about it. Good luck! Sainarong ----- Original Message From: eamusg@quixnet.net Hi I saw your letter in Leo's letters and want to ask questions on longan tree airlayering or marcotting. I have a tree in Florida USA that is growing limbs that are too long. There are lots of new growth closer to the ground. Are there any tips you could give me on airlayering longan trees? Ed in Brandon FL USA eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Marcotting longan Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 09:44:05 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Hi Sainarong I have propagated several lychee and longan trees by marcot or air- layering, and agree that longan is quite easy - for me, much more than lychee. The longan is ready to cut much sooner than the lychee, also. I've done both on the same day, and one reason for failures on the lychee was to assume both were ready, because the longan was. When I cut the rooted plants, I have been quite successful in establishing them, by placing the trees in shade with a large clear plastic bag over each one, tied tightly at the 'trunk.' Before adopting this method, I would cut the foliage 'way back, still keeping them in shade, but without the plastic bags. I also have been successful in using plastic bags around trees I'm moving from one planted location in my small yard to another. I dig the trees, put them into a large plastic pot, bag, and shade them for a few weeks, then finally, plant them into new locations. My success rate is high but not 100%. I will be interested in your comments and suggestions. Merry Christmas to you and yours, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Marcotting longan Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 21:54:26 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda I agree with you, Leo. Covering them with plastic bags increases the chance of success. This is because the plastic bags help ensure high humidity which is essential. Low humidity may result in dehydration which can be deadly for weakened plants. However, if the plants are sufficiently strong and the environment is favorable, there is no need to spend time on the process. Good Health! Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Lychee and Longan cultural requirements Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 21:23:26 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: William Butler Here are some comments on William Butler of Visalia Ca's questions. I have good soil here. A rich loam.It drains very well. All of my other trees do very well in it. I usually add a couple of shovels full of rich compost into the planting hole when planting the trees out. Then I follow up with a 2 to 3 inch layer of compost on the soil surface around the tree. Then follow this up with a layer of mulch several inches thick. Comment: The soil appears to be pretty good. Maybe a little bit more sand would be to longan's liking. There used to be a guy who was a member of the CRFG in a local chapter here in Visalia who was growing a " Brewster " Lychee and a " Kohala " Longan. Both his trees were like 5 feet tall and equally as wide. I had hoped to ask him about cultural requirements but he has since moved away. Both his trees were heavily ladened with fruit each year. After seeing his trees it gave me hope to grow them here. Comment: This guy seems to have perfected his techniques. Someone should try to hunt him down, and ask him to divulge his 'secrets'. Our climate here is hot in the summer and can get cold in the winter. Summers can get over 100F and winters can get below 32F. So I know that for the first few years its going to need some protection from cold. Comment: Below 32 can damage longans, and perhaps lychess as well. This year seems to be very cold everywhere. so take care. Bryan, whom I'm buying my airlayers from said when I receIve the plants to pot them up in a 2 or 3 gallon pot and shade them with intermittent mist. I don't have a shade house but some large trees in the backyard that give filtered broken sunlight. I was thinking of putting them under the tree. Another option is my friends greenhouse. It is very warm and humid in there. Do you think this would be ok to harden off the plants in there? Comment: Putting them under your large tree should suffice. If the greenhouse is very hot and very humid, that may be a little bit too much for the marcots. I need to know answers to questions like: 1) How much water should I give it? Comment: The key is the dampness of the soil, which varies from soil to soil, and from climate to climate. I would say that the saoil should be kept slightly damp most of the time but it should not be drenched. Generally, it is better to err on the dry side than vice versa. 2) How often should I fertilize? I normally use fish emulsion on my mangos and other things would this be ok on Lychee? Comment: As your soil is already well prepared, for the first two years, you hardly need any fertiliser. What you suggest should be fine. I find that most enthusiatic newbies over-fertilise and over-irrigate the saplings. To sum up, water is very important, but good drainage is a must, and over-irrigation drenches the soil may easily damage the sapling. If the soil is already well prepared, you do not need much fertilisers. Overall good management is the key, not fetilisers. Stay with the basic is my advice where conditions are favorable.. 3) I want to keep the tree small like 8 to 10 feet maximum. What is the best pruning practices to accomplish this? Comment: Good idea. The best way to keep the trees low is to get them to flower every year as this will limit the growth. If you have access to potassium chlorate, you may consider using them for longans. Do not allow a crop to betoo copious as this will weaken the trees later on. I would prune the pannicles if flowers are too plentiful. You should then hard prune after harvest, most people prune too little. We are getting into a lot of details here. Why? Because pruing per se is not the answer, it is the overall management for the entire year. You will notice that I am commenting rather than answering your questions. Unfortunately, I am not well acquainted with your environment so my thinkings may not be applicable to your case. What I can give you is general guidelines and the reasons behind my comments. Experienced growers in your area should be able to give you much better advice. Have Fun and take care Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Longan questions Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 22:35:09 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: Charles Ferrin Questions from Charles Ferrin in Saratosa, Florida. I have two questions about longans. First, I gave my relatives in Tampa, Florida a young longan tree (about 1 1/2 years old) to plant in their yard, and they still have it in the pot. Spring is here, so they want to plant it in ground. Do you have any advice for planting and establishing this tree in a Florida yard? Our soil here is sandy, but does have some organic content. Comment: Longan likes sandy soil with good drainage, but it should not be so sandy that it cannot retain any water. Longan needs a lot of water, especially during fruit maturation, but it, like most other fruit trees, does not like drenched soil. Longan also likes plenty of sunshine, but if you are planting it in the ground, it needs to be gradually introduced to sunshine. so you should consider shading it in the beginning and gradually remove the shading. Longan is a pretty hardy plant in suitable environment. How should this young tree be fertilized? Comment: Assuming that your soil is already fairly rich and that you have already added sufficient compost in the hole where the longan is to be planted, you do not need much fertiliser during the first few years. Just a little fertiliser, as recommended on the package label for new plants should be more than enough. In addition, they have a young dog that likes to chew on small plants and trees. Is there anything I can do to protect the longan tree from their dog when they plant it in the yard? Comment: Put up strong fence around the tree. Finally, do you know of an easy method for pitting longans? I would like to pit some longans when they are in season for drying and preserving, but I don't know how to do it. Comment: Use a knife to peel off the skin. Use a small curved knife to take out the seed without damaging the flesh and trying at the same time to maintain the original shape (in Thailand, we have a special but simple knife made for this purpose). Wash the flesh. Shake the flesh. Dry the flesh in the sun for a day or two. Put the flesh in an oven, not too hot, though. The result should be golden dried delicious longan. Remember, practice makes perfect. So, if you do not succeed, try and try again. The result is worth the effort. I shall send you picture of the final product. Have Fun! Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Cultivation Techiques For Different Longan Cultivars Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 22:53:05 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Ronald Lyn from Jamaica writes: Hi Sainarong. Back in 1998 you wrote, "I myself grow mostly Ea daw and a few Ee Haew and See Chompoo. I have difficulties with the latter two. I am beginning to think that the latter two need different methods of looking after and am treating them like I treat Ee daw." Have you had better luck the last 6 years with Chompoo? Have you put in any other varieties? Comments: Although Haew, Biew Kiew and See Chompoo are more delicious than E Daw, they are not as profitable, so I have not planted any more of these. And I have not tried different cultivation method, simply because it is not worth my while. I am, however, still of the same opinion. I am growing a few other cultivars, not commercially, just for fun. Have Fun, like me! Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Marcotting longans Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 23:01:41 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda More tips on marcotting longans: Choose water sprout. The branch should be straight. The bark should be brown but not too old. The branch should be exposed to plenty of sunshine. The size of the branch should be at least thumb (Asian thumb, that is)-sized. The best time to marcot is during the rainy season. The marcot is ready for cutting when the roots have turned brown. Merry Christmas (click below for a Chinese Christmas Greeting!) http://www.song173.com/happy/happy.htm Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Managing longans Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 23:21:09 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Ronald Lyn from Jamaica writes: How large do you allow your trees to become? And how does pruning affect flowering? It seems almost a losing battle trying to keep my few trees manageable. Sometimes they lose health and colour (kohala). So I gave up and it seems a good crop could be in the offing this year. Most flowering for first time, even though they were top worked on established trees. Comments: There are many questions here. I shall try to cover all the topics. I keep the height down to not more than three and a half meters at the most. I rellay prefer two to two and a half meters. Heavy pruning does affect flowering adversely, and slight pruning is generally not sufficient to keep the height down to the desired size. The more infrequent the flowering, the faster the growth, and of course the higher the tree becomes. But if you prune heavily, you get infrequent flowering. This is a 'Catch-22' situation. However, with the use of potassium chlorate to force flowering, the entire scene is changed. You can heavily prune your tree and force it to flower every year with potassium chlorate. And provided that you also prune the pannicle to ensure that the crop is not a very heavy one, the tree will be sufficiently healthy and strong to flower the following year, providing that potassium chlorate is used. And a fair crop means less flush which keeps down the size of the tree. My good friend, Pawin of Maejo University in Thailand, has been doing excellent research on this for a few years. He is now the recognised expert in Asia on the subject. His university has an excellent demonstration plot on pruing technique for longan. If you are ever in Thailand, I strongly recommend you to visait this demonstration plot. And yes, Pawin keeps his longan trees lower than two meters, performs very heavy pruning every year, and gets a good crop of large-sized longans every year. Pawin is also a commercial longan grower as well as a researcher, so he would not be applying the technique to his orchard if it does not bring him higher return. Merry Christmas! Sainarong PS Remind me to send you pictures of the demonstration plot. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: More comments on marcortting Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 14:37:14 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda If you have received a marcot which had been marcotted for many days and has been transported a long distance, what should you do to ensure its survival? The marcot may be dehydrated and weakened, so you need to allow it to recover first. If you plant it right away in the dehydrated and weakened state, it may well give up the ghost. So this is what you should do. First, you should spray the marcot with water and let it absorb the moisture. Then put in in a plastic bag, tie the opening, and allow it about a week to re-hydrate and recover. When it looks healthy and fresh, you can then plant it. You may also consider gradually introduce it to sunlight. This should increase the chance of survival. What do you think? Have a merry Christmas. Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Managing longans Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 14:57:45 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Ronald Lyn writes from Jamaica: What I have done is graft diamond river on kohala rootstock. Doesn't seem to have any difference in the growth of the diamond river. Sainarong coments: Is there any incompability between the two cultivars? Try the reverse. There may be an incompatbility which stunts the growth of the kohala. The incompatibility may not only stunts the growth, but it may encourage flowering as well. Strange but quite probable, thinbk about it. My Aussie friend, a very observant man and a successful grower, pointed this out to me. A grower in Thailand has grafted a local subtropical cultivar on diamond river rootstock. The incompatibility is very visible. Merry Christmas, Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Longan Tree in Perth, Australia Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 22:35:31 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ic@ic-net.com.au Sue in Perth writes: Just a quick update with my longan tree, its still very stunted in every way, since I planted it insitu [about 5 years now] it's now only about 1 m tall and 1.5 m wide so it hasn't grow much at all. I have semi-given up on the speed of its growth. Just taking it as it comes, however, I hope that perhaps one day it will grow up to be a gigantic specimen like once its ancestors. Comment: The climate in Perth is not favourable for longan. You have done a great job keeping it alive. It is now summer in Perth, and a good time to have a go at getting your longan tree to grow faster. Let's get down to the root of the problem, and I mean it literally. I have a feeling that if your roots are healthy, there is a good chance that your tree will grow faster this summer. Longan roots are fine and fragile. They do not go very deep down the earth, they mainly stay near the surface. The soil in which the roots reside should, nay must, not be compact, and should contain plenty of air spaces. The soil should be slightly damp most of the time, but should not be drenched. AS for the drainage property of the soil, it should be able to retain moisture, and yet at the same time should allow water to drain through; a water-logged soil is detrimental to longan. Longan does not require a lot of fertilisers, especially when it is still young; hence the soill should neither be too rich nor depleted. You may consider adding some nitrogen; it does wonder in speeding up the growth of the tree. By the way, do other trees grow well in your orchard? Merry Christmas! Sainarong <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Subject: Re: Moringa Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 11:07:32 +0800 From: Pat Scott Hi Dan, I have had several moringas in pots for several years (they have been in the pots simply because I have been neglecting them). They are outside all year round in a temperate climate, and they die back to ground level every winter, but come back again in the spring. All this makes me think they are pretty hardy plants. Cheers, Pat <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200601A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - January 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200601B.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Palm Springs, CA Susan Reese <><><> Readers Write <><><> Sun Valley, California Backyard Report James Freedner Dragon Fruit drink William Chow New CRFG San Diego Group Jose Asian mystery fruit Niki Wessels Rare Fruits? Mark Renshaw The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers CRFG-Ventura Santa Barbara January '06 Meeting Norman Beard <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Re: Low-rise off-season longan production in Chiangmai Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: hhb <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For San Diego Chapter CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Goji Berry Thaumaturgist Re: Goji Berry Michael Nave Re: Goji Berry "tabbydan" Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 13:40:00 +0800 Pat Scott Re: Goji Berry "tabbydan" Re: Goji Berry Re: Goji Berry Pat Scott Books - Rare Fruit "phil_p_2001" Re: Books - Rare Fruit gardens@aloha.Net Re: Books - Rare Fruit "oscarrj" Pitaya fruits "tabbydan" Re: Pitaya fruits "oscarrj" Re: Pitaya fruits "oscarrj" Re: Pitayas gardens@aloha.Net Re: Pitayas "oscarrj" Re: Pitayas luc vleeracker <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Remarkable Kazak Apples ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Palm Springs, CA Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 07:52:49 -0800 From: Susan Reese Hi, My name is Suze Reese, I live in the Palm Springs, California, USA area. I have no fruit trees at the moment, although I would like a Mexican guava, pineapple guava, and want to know of others. My favorite is Mango. We have a lot of citrus here in the valley, ripe for the picking on local streets. I prepare the local olives in various Mediterranean recipes. I subscribed to this newsletter a few years back and find myself referring to it in many conversations. Kindest Regards Suze mailto:Suzannetobin@adelphia.net <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Sun Valley, California Backyard Report Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:40:47 -0800 From: James Freedner Leo, a happy and healthy new year to you! Lots of rain up here in Sun Valley, in fact my pickup truck got stuck going through a big puddle of water (over 1 foot deep) and I had to push it three blocks back home! It has taken several hours to dry out the coil and re-charge the battery. Pitaya fruit seems to have fizzled out, maybe from the cold. Not much else happening here at the moment, except lots of cochineal scale on my prickly pear cactus (boo!) and some grapefruits are still hanging on the tree (yaaay!). Take care, J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit drink Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:35:23 -0800 From: William Chow Hi Leo, Mr. Robert Reid from Escondido told me that you can buy this drink from Thai stores in Escondido. Have you tried this yet? http://www.wonderfarmonline.com/product/detail.php?product_id=67&catPath=5_31 I have one can. I have not tasted the drink yet. How is your garden? Are you going to celebrate the Luna New Year - Year of the dog? (aka Chinese New Year.) Cheers! William mailto:wchow@earthlite.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New CRFG San Diego Group Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 04:18:44 -0800 From: Jose Group to talk and document the 2007 Fruit Festival that will be held in San Diego. Hi! Please visit this site that I prepared to talk about the Fruit Festival 2007. Please let me know if you would like to add/change anything. Thanks, Jose mailto:jmgallego@CRFGSanDiego.Org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Asian mystery fruit Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 09:37:40 +0200 From: Niki Wessels I've just returned from my second trip to Asia, and - as the first time - I couldn't wait to sample fruit not available at home. Some of the new additions to the list include sapodilla, custard apple and jujube. Though it proved to be hard to find one, I at last managed to get hold of a fresh durian: I'd only eaten a few processed durian products before. We had it peeled and portioned before we left Bangkok on a trip to Kanchanaburi. Somewhere on the way a faint whiff of gasworks and post-match foot odour began to intrude on our subconscious. By the time we got off at our island destination , the progress of our (former, I suspect) friend who was carrying the fruit could be smelled at the other end of the resort. I thought it worth it, however, when I at last got the chance to sample the flesh, which reminded me of a rich, cream custard pudding. We did encounter a fruit that we could not recognise at all. At a Christmas eve party in Hanoi we ate what our Vietnamese hosts referred to as Vietnamese apples, but for which I could not find any references on the Internet. These green fruit look rather like smallish, rather slim Granny Smith apples, with crisp flesh similar in texture, colour and taste to that of apples. I was. therefore, astonished (not to mention very nearly in need of an urgent trip to a dentist) when I discovered inside a stone very similar to that of a peach, although smaller! The other fruit probably does not strictly belong here, as I saw them in the wild in Thailand's Khao Yai Nature Resort, and I have no idea whether they are edible or not. They appear to be that of an arum, but if so, it must be an immense arum: The fruiting axis is borne on a pole-like stalk, and bears fleshy red berries, each of which contains two seeds. The whole structure seems to be around waist-high, but it is difficult to tell because of the surrounding vegetation. Can anyone identify these fruit, perhaps? (I realise the attached photographs of the fruit will not accompany the newsletter, but I'd be happy to send them to anyone who'd like to see them. A happy new year to all Niki Wessels mailto:mynah@mweb.co.za ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rare Fruits? Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 18:28:44 -0800 From: Mark Renshaw Hi, Has anyone in you group here in San Diego ever tried to grow something called a Honeyberry (Lonicera caerulea) ? Also I've heard of a white Nanking cherry that is sweeter than the red one but the only place (Edible landscaping) that sells them doesn't sell to California. Do you know of a place that carries the white Nanking cherry that I can get one at ? Thanks! Mark Renshaw mailto:mrenshaw@alxnsd.com ------------------------------------------------ The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers The following tentative schedule was developed: Jan. Scion Exchange Feb. Grafting Mar. Cherimoya Tasting April Ethno-Botany- Carl Hansen May- Scheiber Grove (Vista) tour June Vincent Lazaneo (Master Gardener program manager) Topic TBD July annual plant sale and potluck picnic Aug. Fruits for Health Ð Jim Bathgate Sept. Festival of Fruit Ðno meeting Oct. Plant labeling Dr. Skip Vince Dec. annual Christmas Potluck This schedule is only tentative and Carol and Cindy may make changes during the year. The following slate of officers was elected for 2006: Chairman Ben Pierce Vice Chairman Carol Graham Treasurer Jim Rockoff Secretary Harry Nickerson JANUARY MEETING-The Scion exchange meeting will be in room T401, building T400 at MiraCosta College. You can park in either lot 4e or 4c. The business part of the meeting will also discuss 3 topics. The parent organization has laid 2 new requirements on the chapters. 1. They are in the process of renewing their insurance policy. They are running a deficit and can no longer allocate part of the $30 annual dues to cover the cost of insurance. The estimate of insurance costs is $5 per member per year and they want to pass that cost down to the chapter. This fee increase will be discussed at the Jan. meeting. 2. Because of the insurance implications they also want to verify that all members of the chapter are members of the parent organization. That has always been our chapter policy, but we had no way of enforcing it. That has now changed. Each February and October they want us to submit our membership list to them, so they can check it against their own. The chapter secretary had to submit a preliminary list of current members to the parent organization in December of 2005. The secretary will need your help in refining this list in time for the February submittal and may bring to the Jan. meeting a list of members whose status is questionable to ask if anyone can shed light on his or her status. This new requirement may also force us to define more carefully what constitutes membership and this may be discussed at the Jan. meeting. 3. The chapter has been functioning without any by-laws, probably because the membership has been very stable. Ben, our new chairman, wants to publicize and grow our chapter. The other chapters i.e. San Diego and Orange County have by-laws. In view of these factors Ben has drafted and reviewed with George Emerisch, Jim Bathgate and the current officers a simple set of by-laws. These may be passed out so members can take them home and be prepared to discuss them at the February meeting. FEBRUARY MEETING= The college will be closed on Feb. 17 our normal meeting date; so we have moved the February meeting to the 10 of February. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $6.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30 /yr and is required. Chapter dues run from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. CRFG dues run 1 year from the date you joined. Please mail your $30 CRFG dues to the address in the Fruit Gardener. Make checks payable to CRFG. Send chapter dues to Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92008 Send address changes to Harry Nickerson, 1815 Yettford Rd. Vista CA 92083 QUAIL GARDENS- Monthly work parties are held on a Saturday morning for the Fruit Garden at Quail Gardens. CRFG planted and now maintains the garden. We need monthly volunteers to help with the tasks, such as pruning, weeding raking etc. It is an opportunity to work with people who have a lot of experience. Steve Ashley who leads this is usually there from 9:00 AM to 12:00 PM but if you can only come for an hour or so it will still be appreciated. Contact Steve for the specific schedule and further details. Jan. 20 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T401-Bldg. T400 Scion Exchange Feb. 10 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T401-Bldg. T400 Grafting Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Check calendar for current meeting details. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG-Ventura Santa Barbara January '06 Meeting Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:44:30 -0800 From: Norman Beard ******JANUARY MEETING When: January 21, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon (We will start on time.) Where: Norman & Kay Beard's residence; 200 Ellwood Ridge Road, Goleta; 968-0989 Directions: From the SOUTH: Exit 101 N at Winchester Canyon Road; turn RIGHT onto Winchester Rd. Turn RIGHT onto Cathedral Oaks Rd. Turn LEFT (at the Old Barn with boats) onto Ellwood Canyon Rd. Turn slight RIGHT onto Ellwood Ridge Road. Go up the hill to 200 Ellwood Ridge Road (1st place). Follow CRFG Signs! >From the NORTH: Take the Hollister Ave. exit of 101 S, then turn LEFT and cross over 101. Turn RIGHT onto Winchester Canyon Rd. Proceed as above. Agenda: Annual Plant Sale; Air-Layering with Rooter-Pots; Grafting; Scion Wood Exchange; Fruit Garden Tour Host: Norman Beard, our Chapter's Co-Chair. Description: -- There will be many plants for sale at this meeting, as it is our 5th annual CRFG plant sale held at the Beards' (the past 4 events were extremely popular!). A Plant List is attached. All vendors and commercial Gardening services are invited to participate; members with plants to sell are encouraged to bring their plants. This meeting is open to the General Public, so bring friends and neighbors. -- Norman will show how to air-layer using "Rooter-Pots" and how to graft, and lead a tour of his expansive fruit garden. (Rooter-Pots, which are reusable, will be available for purchase at the meeting.) -- Please bring scion wood for an exchange. Have it packaged in labeled baggies and kept cool with ice cubes. -- Please bring a donated plant to raffle (you'll receive a free raffle ticket). All proceeds will go to our CRFG Chapter treasury. -- If you have black buckets you don't need, please bring them, as Noman is donating buckets for our February meeting. ******SAVE the DATE: FEBRUARY MEETING The meeting will be held on Saturday, February 25th, 10:00am - noon, at Monte Vista Elementary School, 730 Hope Ave., S.B. We are honored to have Dr. Joe Sabol, a Cal-Poly retired professor, teach us on how to graft apple scion wood on root stock. Everyone will be able to graft an apple tree. Cost to any grafter will be $2.00 for each apple tree (which he/she can pot up there and take home!). ******LOCAL OFFICERS Chapter Co-Chair: Norman Beard, (805) 968-0989, beardtropics@earthlink.net Chapter Co-Chair: Jerry Sortomme, (805) 644-2777, jerrysortomme@hotmail.com For Membership in California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc, send $30.00 to CRFG, Inc, Fullerton Arboretum- CSUF, PO Box 6850, Fullerton, CA 92834-6850 AND $10 (for Local Dues) to Roland Messori 355 Sierra Vista Rd., Santa Barbara, CA 93108 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Re: Low-rise off-season longan production in Chiangmai Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 23:00:49 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: hhb I am quite interested in your "low-rise" longan. Is it a dwarfing technique or a genetic dwarf? It is a dwarfing technique. Sixteen years ago, I saw in Singapore genetic dwarfs of Durian and "Bua Kedongdong" (it means Kedondong fruit in Malay). I don't know its Latin name, it is a sweet/sour fruit, no much flavor, the size is about a small lady fist. I was very familiar when I was a boy living in Kuching Sarawak). You know the durian trees are very tall, several stories high, and the genetic dwarf ia just 2-3 meters high. The dwarf Kedongdong miniatur trees were grown in big pots. I did raise a question to my colleagues without any substaintial response, that are there any genetic dwarf of lychee and longan? Should we pay attention to such work? Much concern has been towards apple and other genetic dwarf and there are numerous results. For tropical and subtropical fruits, this idea seriously lags behind. I am a fruit physiologist, do not have energy to deal with genetics, now I am retired (2002), so I am just interested to know something that I happened to think before. I am also interested in genetic dwarfs. Unfortunately, no one else seems to be interested. We have in Lampoon a 10-year-old longan tree which is less than 2 meters high. It may well be a genetic dwarf, but nobody has bothered to graft it and grow it at other locations, or to grow trees from its seeds. So we do not know whether we have a genetic dwarf in our midst. This is a pity. I also think that low-rise trees may be obtain by a not-very-compatible scion to a rootstck; the resulting tree may also flower regularly. Hope you are recovering fast! Sainarong/Lin Heping mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Subject: Goji Berry Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 06:35:28 -0800 (PST) From: Thaumaturgist Anyone growing the Himalayan Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum) or anyone with any info? Http://www.Dynamic-health.Com/goji.Htm http://www.Gojiberryproducts.Com/site/928759/page/45029 Asit K. Ghosh mailto:asitkghosh@yahoo.Com http://www.Asitghosh.Com Rockledge, Florida 32955, USA ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 08:07:46 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Nave I bought two seedlings last winter and they died before they even leafed out fully. Not sure what the problem was. I'm going to try again this year. I don't care for the marketing schemes and extravagant health claims that surround goji but the dried fruits really are quite good and I would like to try the fresh fruit. Michael Nave mailto:jmichaelnave@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 19:17:10 -0000 From: "tabbydan" It's also called "chinese wolfberry". It does have legitimate health benifits but it isn't a panacea... It's probably like carrots or apples (good for you but not going to cure you of cancer, make you walk again, or reverse blindness). >> http://www.Dynamic-health.Com/goji.Htm This site was particularly whacky. It boasted that the juice was high in germanium (an element that, so far, no one has found used in the human body and it seems dubious that it ever will). Keep in mind that herbal suppliments are NOT regulated by the FDA and as such they are a great market for charlatins. One consumer study found that most echanacia(sp?) Suppliments contained little or no echanacia(sp?). Of course, some producers are legit, but many oversell the benefits and do nothing to ensure a given dosage strength (specific phytochemicals can be in lower/higher conc. Based on variety, growing conditions, storage....). You can google the sci name and find LOTS of links on research. It has been used for centuries in Chinese traditional medicine and science has confirmed that it does have legitimate benifits... You can get the berries (dried) at lots of Asian markets. My wife used o make a tea with wolfberries and other plant products and insist I drink it to help heal my throat. I kind of doubt it had any effect on my throat and stopped drinking it because it didn't have a good flavor and was astringent. It's probably worth growing and eating as "beneficial food". mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 13:40:00 +0800 Subject: Re: Goji Berry From: Pat Scott Hi, I'm not growing Goji, but I did a bit of research on the internet recently and wrote an article. Here is one bit of that: There is considerable confusion about the correct names and identity of the species of Goji. Goji is a member of the Lycium genus and the Solanaceae family, or nightshades, that includes tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco, capsicums, eggplants, petunias,and many more. There are in the order of 100 different species of Lycium, some of which are prohibited in Australia (African Boxthorn, L. Ferocissimum) because of their weedy habits and ferocious thorns. The correct name for Goji seems to be Lycium barbarum. As far as common names are concerned, Goji is also commonly called ÔWolfberry,Õ or ÔMatrimony Vine.Õ Most likely, ÔWolfberryÕ should be considered to be L. Chinense. It is very similar to L. Barbarum, and indeed, Goji berries imported from China are often L. Chinense; berries of this are said to be more bitter than L. Barbarum. It is said that dried berries can be identified by their colour: real Goji berries have a range of reddish colours, while the substituted Chinese ones are uniformly red as a result of being dyed. Cheers, Pat mailto:clamshell@iinet.Net.Au ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 12:32:59 -0000 From: "tabbydan" Thanks for the info Pat. Clears up some confusion I had. For instance the wolfberry I had didn't seem to be great eating dried (unlike what Phil had). Do you have more info on the Lycium genus (you named two species, I'm wondering if others are food plants and if so what they are like)? mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 14:01:26 -0000 From: "tabbydan" L. Andersonii: edible, thorny, arid plant L. Californicum: edible, arid plant L. Pallidum: Range: Pale wolfberry ranges from southern Colorado, Utah, and Nevada south to California, Arizona, New Mexico, and western Texas Edible: Historically, Native Americans have eaten pale wolfberry berries and have used the plant for a wide variety of medicinal purposes From: http://www.Csdl.Tamu.Edu/FLORA/cgi/b98_list?Genus=Lycium Species in the US (more elsewhere in the world): Lycium andersonii: edible (above) Lycium barbarum: edible (goji) (oddly found in most states) Lycium berlandieri: edible (PFAF) Lycium californicum: edible (above) Lycium carolinianum (The berries are edible (but they are bird- preferred, not for human-consumin' (From: http://www.Plantcreations.Com/lycium_carolinianum.Htm)) Lycium chinense Lycium cooperi Lycium exsertum Lycium fremontii Lycium hassei Lycium macrodon Lycium pallidum Lycium parishii Lycium puberulum Lycium richii Lycium sandwicense Lycium shockleyi Lycium texanum Lycium torreyi Lycium tweedianum Lycium verrucosum mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 10:54:05 +0800 From: Pat Scott Hi, No, I don't have any more info - I was only looking at those few species. Here is a URL for a nursery that sells the L. Barbarum plants. It was the only site I came across that had actual growing information. http://www.Timpanogosnursery.Com/site/928760/page/416906 Pat mailto:clamshell@iinet.Net.Au ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Books Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:54:01 -0000 From: "phil_p_2001" I know this subject has been discussed before, but I have a poor memory, so here goes. I take it from the discussions that Julia Mortons book (Fruits of warm climates ) is number one choice. (Very expensive), so what would be a good second choice ? Phil mailto:phil_p_2001@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 22:04:36 -1000 Subject: Re: Books From: gardens@aloha.Net The Mortons book is on the Internet on: http://www.Hort.Purdue.Edu/newcrop/morton/index.Html vladimir mailto:gardens@aloha.Net ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Books Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 08:33:57 -0000 From: "oscarrj" Phil, Morton is very cheap, free in fact. All online. The CD version on the Morton book is not expensive, only the book format is expensive. Other books I recommend are at http://www.Fruitlovers.Com/favoritebooks.Html Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Pitaya fruits Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 23:25:50 -0000 From: "tabbydan" You and Carlos have had good ones. I've tried a lot and never had a good one so I guess often it is picked a the wrong stage- and probably will continue to be that way unless I go to where it is growing and have an expert pick one fresh off the plant at the peak of ripeness for me. The odd thing is that F&S have a good variety one and they usually only put premo fruits out for sampling in the gift shop (I think their H. Undatus is in a locked greenhouse that not everyone can get into- so only Chris R. Or a few others would be picking it). Their H. Undatus left me wholly unimpressed. Likewise I didn't try any in Thailand but I asked Kukiat if he ever had one he liked (they grow a lot of it there) and he told me that he hadn't. In contrast I've only had 1 of the "yellow" ones (Selenicereus megalanthus) and I liked it. Marcelo found that same fruit too bland for his tastes though (and I think H. Undatus is too bland for my taste). There are a lot of other cactus fruits that generate fruits of known quality easier... So I'm not going to waste any more energy going after H. Undatus (I used to be convinced it was the best since all kinds of cactus fruit growers grew it... And put up with it). I will continue to go crazy and waste lots of energy for other plants though, like Theobromas, Garcinia.... Even Eugenia (which has some real nice fruits and a lot of so-so ones- but I have an odd fixation on it) mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitaya fruits Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:19:53 -0000 From: "oscarrj" I have eaten a lot of dragon fruit and agree with Bryan. Have had the whole range of tastes from dragon fruit from bland as water to delightful. The ones I had in Thailand were totally bland. Have had excellent ones here and tasteless ones here. The white ones tend to be more bland. My favorite one here is pink fleshed. Very nice subtle berry taste, great texture, just very expensive! As I remember tabbydan used to not like lychees until he had the real article! I never understood how anyone could NOT like lychees until I had ones from a supermarket in LA! Yuk, practically unedible. Fresh fruits are just not the same as fruits that have been sitting around for days or weeks. Also have read that dragon fruit growers pick the fruit on the unripe side so they will keep longer. Full flavor demands picking the fruit ripe. It does not ripen off the vine. Ever had unripe figs? Oscar, Hawaii mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitaya fruits Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:26:48 -0000 From: "oscarrj" The yellow pitaya (Selenicereus megalanthus) is a lot sweeter than the dragon fruit. I like the yellow pitaya also, but they are usually pretty small, not as attractive, and do not have some of the subtle berry tastes that a good dragon fruit has. mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitayas Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:34:25 -1000 From: gardens@aloha.Net I am growing several varieties of dragonfruit. I ordered seeds about 2 years ago and all sprouted well and after 2 sprouting seeds started grow with tiny thorns. Year later local nursery started selling several varieties of dragonfruit cactuses. After 2 years of growing dragonfruit from seeds, my biggest once are just as thick as sections of mature dragon fruit cactuses. I don't know how trustfully would the fruit reproduce from seed, but 'leaf' part, I can see, looks very different from different varieties and very uniform within variety. During this time it happened twice that I was able to purchase a fruit. Each time different variety. The seeds sprouted well, after just washing off the sweetness. It is amazing to me, because the seeds are very small and I have no prior experience in growing cactus from seeds. I do experience problems of other type - big cactus, when it rains too much rots. I'm thinking of getting a drum and filling it with sandy soil and rocks and growing it like that, because I am not living on desert side of the Island where different cactus grows naturally . The 2 types of dragon fruit I did tasted: one was red on the outside with whitish pulp on the inside - to me it tasted very pleasant, because I love melons and cucumbers, but to somebody else it might taste too bland. Another one was again red outside, and inside was very dark red - I did not like the after taste. The taste was sweet, uninteresting but OK. The aftertaste was little like a raw/under-cooked red beet. About methods of growing: I see on photos on the net how it is thinned to main stem and staked and grows sort of like a beautiful 'tree', but I've seen it also growing on a sunny rocky slope and also putting air'roots - attaching itself on the sunny wall of a house. I'm attracted to growing it, because prickly pear (a fruit of fattish sections cactus - Latin name Opuntia) which grows on our Island wild, has tiny prickles on the outside of the fruit's skin (dragonfruit has none) and prickly pear has lots of big seeds (sort of like guava but more so) and dragon fruit's seeds one just swallows - like seeds of strawberry. I'm hoping to grow this cactus to fruiting stage, so when grandchildren come to visit, I can impress them. That's about the end of description of my limited experiences with this very interesting looking fruit. Vladimir mailto:gardens@aloha.Net ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitayas Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:54:42 -0000 From: "oscarrj" In case you do not already know it, there is a special yahoo newsgroup dedicated to just dragonfruit. It is hosted by Leo Manuel. There is a lot of interest by hobbyists in this fruit and a lot of detailed discussion. See http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PitayaFruit/ Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitayas Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 17:23:06 -0800 (PST) From: luc vleeracker Curious! In their natural habitat they also grow in the shade in trees and on rocks. I planted about 20, all taken out of the jungle, in full sun against a wall and totally neglect them, they are not really doing well, on the other hand I forgot some in my shaded nursery behind otherplants and these grow like crazy. These Vietnamese guys must know or do something that I dont know, unfortunatly they are not open to the public and when one tries to approach them to talk about rare fruit you hit a wall. For them it is strictly $$$$$. Therefore I would like to thank all our groupmembers for whom this is also a business like Bryan, Oscar, Ken and all the others who graciously offer their advice. Luc mailto:lucvleeracker@yahoo.Com <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Remarkable Kazak Apples Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 08:06:08 -0500 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr Grafts, genetic material and rootstocks collected during the 1990s from wild apple trees in central Asia may revolutionize the nation's apple industry. This material shows potential for helping breed trees that bear popular, domestic apples while standing up to destructive diseases and fungi, according to Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists. The genetic material was gathered during U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) sponsored excursions to Asia and Europe aimed at expanding the known genetic diversity of apples. Horticulturist Phil Forsline and plant geneticist Gennaro Fazio of ARS' Plant Genetics Research Unit have used the material to raise orchards of the exotic apples near their laboratory in Geneva, N.Y. And, with colleagues in ARS and Cornell University, they've documented with astonishment the disease resistance of many of these trees and the domestic species they've bred with them. Forsline went on seven of the collecting trips, including four to central Asia. The trips resulted in at least a doubling of the known genetic diversity of apple trees, according to Forsline. The scientists returned with 949 apple tree accessions from central Asia alone. Other excursions were to China, the Caucasus region including Russia and Turkey, and Germany. Fazio and Forsline are most impressed with the material collected in Kazakhstan, especially accessions of Malus sieversii, an important forerunner of the domestic apple. This is logical, given that Kazakhstan is a likely ancestral origin of familiar domestic apples (Malus x domestica) such as Red Delicious, Golden Delicious and McIntosh. According to Forsline, the Kazak trees showed significant resistance to apple scab--the most important fungal disease of apples--as well as to fire blight. They were highly resistant against Phytophthora cactorum, which causes collar rot, and Rhizoctonia solani, an agent of apple replant disease, according to Fazio. Both researchers found genes in the Kazak apples that allow them to adapt to mountainous, near-desert, and cold and dry regions. Read more about the research in the January 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/apples0106.htm ARS is USDA's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200601B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - February 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200602A.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> There's considerably more letters than have been posted for some time. Several have written of questions they have or plant material they need. I hope that you will pass along information to them that you know about. Kent and Keitt mango trees are still carrying rather large fruit. They tend to be later than most of my others. However, it's surprising to see that several of the Early Gold fruit have not ripened. The last four pitayas - all Yellow or Selenicereus megalanthus - are finally starting to show the yellow color that indicates they are ripening. The spines will brush off ripened fruit, but wearing gloves is recommended. Tell us what's happening in your garden. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Fort Lauderdale, Florida Ken Workman New Subscriber, Near Kansas City, Missouri Elizabeth A Young New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Wants Recipies Barry Hicks Resubscribing Ollie RE: Resubscribing Ollie New Subscriber, Charleston WV EricJK32@charter.net New Subscriber, Central Florida, Needs Raspberry Source "NancyB." New Subscriber - El Cajon, California Connie Beck New Subscriber, Hawaii, Growing Unusual Rare Fruit Ana Frederick <><><> Readers Write <><><> Flowering Pomegranate EricJK32@charter.net http://webpages.charter.net/ericinwv/Pomegranate/ Jujubes in NW Florida? Source Information Needed Bill Burson Apricot dilemma Nan Sterman RE: Apricot dilemma JosŽ Miguel Gallego To: Nan Sterman , Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) Annabell Skripek Re: Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) "david.crfg-sd" To: Annabell Skripek Dragon fruit Pitaya John Koman Re: Dragon fruit Pitaya Leo Manuel To: John Koman Jan 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Zhenxing Fu Looking For Source for Cherimoya Fruit "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Where Should I Locate To Grow Jackfruit, Papaya? Siraj Chowdhury Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Siraj Chowdhury Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury Pitahaya Joanne Gram <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Michael Nave Pawpaws-great discussion of flavors http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/27783.html Miracle Fruit In Pill Form "rarefruit2003" Grafting Made Easy by using Parafilm M <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Plant Compounds Could Aid Blood Flow ARS News Service Rooting for Helpful Fungi ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Fort Lauderdale, Florida Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 04:01:53 -0500 From: Ken Workman We would like to subscribe to your newsletter. We live in Fort Lauderdale and have just come back from a trip through S.E. Asia with the Fruit/Spice group out of the Fruit/Spice Park in Homestead, Florida. We currently have Carambola, Tapia, and Mangosteen growing in front yard. About to expand to Pitaya, and mango, and whatever else captures our interest. We look forward to hearing from you. Ken and Deb Workman mailto:kdwork@starpower.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Near Kansas City, Missouri Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 13:48:27 -0600 From: Elizabeth A Young Hello, Yesterday while at the library using the Internet, I found your website. I would like to receive your newsletter. My name is Elizabeth Young and I live about an hour East of Kansas City, MO, via Interstate travel time in Zone 5-6. I don't have a super computer system and have a lot of trouble getting e-mail at times, so prefer to share my e-address only with you, not everyone on the newsletter list if that is possible. It is the same as is on this posting. I do not have Internet access at home. We currently have a 20x36 unheated hoop house that my husband and I just put up late in 2005 on our small farm. I have lettuce growing and a few other 'greens', potted perennials that needed protection and will soon be planting early garden inside. I ordered a Hardy Chicago fig, white mulberry, and Che from Edible Landscaping last fall. The mulberry graft was broken, they are supposed to replace it this Spring. The other two don't look particularly impressive. I have been looking on the Internet for other places to order 'new to me' fruiting bushes and trees. One place I found yesterday was Burnt Ridge Nursery in Washington state. Do you know anything about them? The plants of interest for me are: Aronia, Blue Bean, Goumi, Honeyberry, Wolfberry and two more figs, Italian Honey and Violette de Bordeaux. I probably will be ordering from them before the next newsletter comes out but still would be interested to know if others have experienced any of these and the results. We are from the Missouri Ozarks, East of Springfield and one of my brothers is in Northwest Arkansas, so it is interesting to find that you are from the Ark. Ozarks. Also, I have a brother and sister-in-law near Cardiff by the Sea. Though I have never been in the area, I believe it is near where you are in San Diego. I will be watching for your newsletter. Elizabeth mailto:whisperyoung@juno.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Wants Recipies Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 10:21:26 +1000 From: Barry Hicks I would like to become a subscriber please. I am Barry Hicks, Beerwah, Queensland 4519 Australia I'm looking recipes using Brazil cherries (Eugenia uniflora). Fruit/nuts I have growing are Bananas, passion fruit, jaboticaba, pawpaw (2 var.), custard apple, citrus (4 var.), fig, mulberry, persimmon, lichi, macadamia, Atherton oak, Cedar Bay Cherry (Eugenia reinwardtiana) (Bush tucker food). Yours faithfully Barry Hicks mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Resubscribing Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 23:04:28 -0500 From: Ollie Hi, This is Oliver (Ollie) Patterson, from central Florida, hoping to *resubscribe* after years of being away. Remember me, Leo? It's been a while. . . . These days I'm growing the following: Carambola (getting hundreds of *big* fruits per month from two trees, even in January--these trees love my yard!) Lychee (four trees (two are 'Emperors') that never seem to flush at the right time of year) Atemoya (two trees--these are my favorite fruits) Jackfruit (one tree (seedling, 'NS-1') that's young but growing *very* rapidly) Jaboticaba (three trees, one of fruiting age--I love these trees) White sapote (huge seedling that still hasn't flowered--aarrgghh!) Avocados (not having great success with these--slow growing) Macadamia nut (no production yet from two 'Arkin papershells') And also Barbados cherry, black sapote, wampi, guava, fig, and various citrus species. . . . Ollie Patterson mailto:ollie_patterson@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Resubscribing Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 23:55:25 -0500 From: Ollie Thanks, Leo. It's great to see that you're still keeping RFNO going. I don't know how or when I lost track of it, but I'm glad to be back. Along the way I became the father of three children--maybe that's the reason! Anyway, nice to hear from you again and I look forward to reading the back issues (yes, I have Internet access). mailto:ollie_patterson@earthlink.net -----Original Message----- From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 11:19 AM To: Ollie Subject: Re: Resubscribing > Hi Ollie, > > I remember you well in the birthing period of this newsletter. > Welcome back! > > Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Charleston WV Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 06:14:26 -0500 From: Eric Konieczny Hi, My name is Eric Konieczny. I grew up in National City, CA and Ramona, CA and now am currently living in Charleston, WV. Moving from the warm thermal hills above Ramona to the cold appalachian valley of Charleston West Virginia is quite a challenge for someone who all their life grew all kinds of rare fruits. But I guess growing exotics is an addiction and no matter where you are the urge never goes away. My secret out here in this usda zone 6b climate is using thick gauge plastic on the outside of my garage door. That way I can open the door up in the daytime to let sunlight in and keep the cold out. I have a gas furnace on standby if it gets too cold. Guess it is some kind of generic greenhouse, but hey it works. Some fruits I am growing now include: Various citrus trees including a 5 1/2 foot tall Ugli fruit tree grown from seed, a mango from seed, pineapple, coconut, (longan and litchi seedlings that are damping off), chinese jujube, and all kinds of miscellaneous plants that my Dad brings out here from San Diego every May to cure my home sickness like red apple ice plant, natal plum, cotlydons, bougainvillea, tree aloes, and even canyon Live oak seedlings to mention a few. Now if I can bring back some wild chapparal plants and maybe some invasive wild mustard and fennels to really make it feel like home....Just kidding West Virginia DNR if you are reading this. LOL!! By the way if anyone knows where in San Diego I could have my Dad get a "Wonderful" pomegranate and not a mislabled double flowering carnation one let me know. Cuttings, bare root, or potted. It doesn't matter. So far the double flowering one I did get does quite well at my house against a south facing wall and survived the past 2 winters. Hopefully the "Wonderful" variety can come close to equaling its hardiness. I must get one to try and as far as I know it would be the only outdoors fruiting pomegranate in West Virginia. Anyway's, Lots of great rare fruit info from all kinds of growers thats well put together through your news letters. Excellent job. I look forward to reading more. Eric Konieczny mailto:EricJK32@charter.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Central Florida, Needs Raspberry Source Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 21:25:16 -0500 From: Nancy Baron Hello; My name is Nancy Baron, and I live in Central Florida. I grow: pineapple guavas, pineapples, japanese persimmon (the hard and soft type), figs, grapefruit, oranges, key limes, flame grapes, tangerines, papayas, and just planted an avocado tree. I also raise orchids, including Vanilla planifolia. I would like to raise low - chill raspberries like the California (Oregon 1030), but I need a mail order source. Any sources for low chill raspberries would be welcome! The pineapple guavas are smaller than what you see sold from NZ, but the racoons vacuum them off the bushes, if I wait too long. The flame grape isn't a muscadine, but it is very tasty table grape that doesn't get fungus in central Florida. They too, will be picked clean by racoons if I wait too long to harvest. I have flowered the vanilla bean orchid, but haven't tried my hand at pollination. They need to get long and leggy > 6 feet to bloom. Also, the blossom will fade fast before 9 Am., so you need to get out at night to try your hand at pollinating them. Nancy Baron mailto:sergius1@bellsouth.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - El Cajon, California Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 07:20:48 -0800 (PST) From: Connie Beck My name is Connie Beck, in El Cajon I have an acre on an east facing slope in Rancho San Diego. It is totally frost free and I don't get ANY chill hours! My apricot and nectarine therefore do not do anything except leaf out in the spring and then drop their leaves in the winter! So I am much more successfully growing avocados and citrus. After a visit to Thailand last summer I also planted Dragonfruit and Longan. I'm thinking about removing the apricot and nectarine and replacing them with a Floridaprince peach and a mango. Any comments or advice? I am an organic gardener (and instructor) and fertilize with well-rotted horse manure and kelp only. My trees are quite happy with this regimen and so am I! I look forward to getting your e-newsletter! Thanks, Connie Beck mailto:Holisticgardener@yahoo.com We must be the change we wish to see in the world. --Mahatma Gandhi ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Hawaii, Growing Unusual Rare Fruit Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 10:03:09 -1000 From: Ana Frederick Hi: I live in Hawaii and am a plant psycho. I just started to get into plants recently, and have just discovered the pleasure of growing. So far, I have a mangosteen, garcinia prainiana, rheedia brasiliensis, rheedia madruno, mamey sapote, longan, Fijian longan, cacao, matisia, marang, lychee, ice cream bean, mangos, papaya, bananas, brazilian cherry, sapodilla, black sapote, white sapote, star apple, cashew, rollinia, posh te, langsat longkong, vanilla, jaboticaba, coffee, abiu, oranges, nuts, and a gazillion fragrant flower plants/trees. I am desperately looking for a source for plantonia insignis. I've tried just about every nursery online, and no one has anything, not even seeds. Does anyone here know where I can find seeds? Or, has anyone tasted this fruit, apparently called bacuri? Thank you. Ana Frederick Honolulu, HI mailto:ana@onevai.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Flowering Pomegranate Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 09:30:01 -0500 From: EricJK32@charter.net I have a question about a double flowering pomegranate. When I bought this pom it was labeled as "Wonderful". I believe it was mislabed though. Does anyone know if Carnation Flowering pomegranates are capable of producing any fruit at all. The images I took are from July 2005, since then it grew from 4 feet to about 8 1/2 so I guess it is not a dwarf type. Also it flowers from spring thru fall. Other than that I don't know what kind it is or if it can produce. If it can't produce I guess I will move it from its spot since it is in the hottest most sheltered spot in my yard and plant a fruiting type. View this flowering plant at: http://webpages.charter.net/ericinwv/Pomegranate/ Thanks for any kind of help. Regards, Eric in Charleston, West Virginia mailto:EricJK32@charter.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jujubes in NW Florida? Source Information Needed Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 09:00:07 -0600 From: Bill Burson Hi, This is Bill Burson, formerly of Poway, California. My family & I have moved to the Pensacola, FL area & would like to see if you have any suggestions of plant material (hopefully trees or perennials) that may thrive here including any varieties of Jujubes. We have planted some stone fruits & will be putting some standard citrus in the ground this year, I miss the selection of nurseries that I took for granted in San Diego. The winters are a little colder, the rainy season is longer, the soil is sandier, it is far more humid & the mosquitoes are large enough to file a flight plan & fly in formation Bill Burson mailto:powaybill@mchsi.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Apricot dilemma Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 14:36:52 -0800 From: N Sterman Hiya! I have an apricot dilemma. I have an apricot tree that has been in the ground for at least 9 years. It has a lovely shape, but in all that time, has produced probably 6 fruit. My garden is approx sunset zone 23 and this tree sits in one of the coolest spots. It is a Katie grafted with at least a half dozen other varieties, all forgotten by now. I am ready to take it out but before I do, I am wondering whether you have any other suggestions. I hate to take out a mature tree... Thanks for your help! Nan Nan Sterman mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com Encinitas, CA 92023 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Apricot dilemma Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 19:28:34 -0800 From: JosŽ Miguel Gallego To: Nan Sterman Hi Nan, First: don't take it out!!! :^) Right now is an excellent time to get scions of known cultivars to graft them to it. There are several excellent apricots available which are also great producers. For example, last night Jim had two cultivars which he brought to the scion exchange of the North County Chapter: Early Gold and Hotck (sp?) Kiss apricots. They produce in sequence, so you can also have an extended production of apricots. I have the remaining cuttings which I was planning to take to the San Diego meeting on Thursday, I can save a few for you and, if you would like, we can graft them to your tree... just let us know. The Orange County is having their exchange on the 28th and members bring in quite a collection of apricot cultivars, we can get you other cultivars. Also, since it already has several grafts, it may be a nutrition issue. How is the soil? Have you fertilized it? Did the leaves look healthy before it went dormant? How do the grafts look? Just don't give up on that tree... for now :^) JosŽ Miguel Gallego mailto:JMGallego@LosGallego.Com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) From: Annabell Skripek Date: Saturday, January 21, 2006 4:12 PM Hi there, I am looking for a 5 gallon avocado tree that is producing fruit. My mom has grown about three from seed and one of them is about 6-8 years old and is not producing fruit. I am afraid that it's a dud tree? Would a grafter be able to graft it so it produces fruit, or should I just buy a new tree? Question #2: My sapote trees are tall but not blooming. I have two and my mom has pruned it a bit so that they don't grow too tall but it's been years... Question #3: If orange trees and "lima" trees produced fruit but are not any more, what am I doing wrong? The lima tree is from Bolivia and we've never seen anything like that here in San Diego. My uncle has a Pacay tree (ice cream beans tree?) but he can't ever harvest his fruit b/c the tree is so tall!!! (funny). Anyways, I am interested in attending your next meeting and hope to go but meanwhile would like to know if you can answer some of my questions? Thank you for your time, Annabell Skripek mailto:annabell@skripek.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 20:55:38 -0800 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: Annabell Skripek Hi, Anabell. I hope that you do make the next meeting. I also recomend that you visit http://www.rarefruit.com/ and subscribe to the email newsletter. I'm copying this to there. You'll get some other opinions. The avocado thing is simple. Seedlings take a long time to produce and are often not very good. You wouldn't know it from avocados that you buy but there are all kind of bitter, astringent, fiberous etc. characteristics that can be present. Surest thing is to graft your seedlings over to something known and good. This a good time of year to bring this up. There is always a huge variety of avocado graft wood up at the Orange County Chapter's Scion Exchange. That is next weekend. I don't know enough to comment on your other questions. Take care. David Silverstein mailto:david.crfg-sd@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon fruit Pitaya Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 18:09:04 +0000 From: John Koman Dear Sir: I am researching this fruit and trying to discover if dragon fruit is a general name for any epiphyte or is it specifically H. undatus? Can you clear this up? I would like to grow this but so far I cannot seem to get clarification. I see that a few species.... "Pitaya, Pitahaya, Dragon Fruit, and other synonyms for Hylocereus undatus, H. Polyrhizus, and other H. spp. are raised for their delicious and attractive fruit." Are mentioned , even the spp. type so could you shed some light on this. The net seems to keep referring back to your .com so I thought I would ask you. John Koman - Ventura, CA mailto:johnkoman@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dragon fruit Pitaya Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 18:01:35 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: John Koman I think the Vietnamese adopted the name "Dragon Fruit" to give the fruit a mystique, much the same way the name "Kiwi" was used to jazz up the image of the fruit formerly called the Chinese Gooseberry. It seems to have originally been applied only to he fruit of H. undatus but has become a blanket term for fruit of all Hylocereus and possibly Yellow Pitayas as well. That's my opinion. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jan 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 14:25:23 -0800 From: Zhenxing Fu A friendly reminder: your CRFG membership is overdue. Please renewal your membership by contacting: Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 Tel: (619) 440 2213 mailto:vicechair@crfgsandiego.org An exciting event upcoming is the California Cherimoya Association annual meeting this year on February 18, 2006 at the University of California South Coast Research & Extension Center 7601 Irvine Blvd., Irvine, CA. 10 AM to 3PM. A copy of the registration sheet is attached. Pruning Expert Eph Konigsberg, Karen Firestein of the USDA Cooperative Center, UC Cooperative Extension Tropical Fruit Specialist Dr. Gary Bender and Scott Van Der Kar of Pine Hill Ranch in Carpinteria will all speak. There will also be a team of grower specialists in cherimoyas to answer questions. Our Event will include a tour of the Cherimoya Collection at the University of California South Coast Field Station. The 2006 Budwood program is available to members and non-members alike by registering prior to February 8, 2006 and designating your cultivar choices. Grafted Cherimoya Trees in nursery liners are available for sale and will be available to everyone but will be offered first to Association members. A delicious Hawaiian barbecue lunch is available to those who register by February 8, 2006. (Note: This is a very worthwhile event for Cherimoya enthusiasts. The lunch is great as is the opportunity to taste various cultivars.) And from CRFG friend and supporter, Nan Sterman, I pass this along about her new gardening show on TV and website. Show is A Growing Passion on KPBS, channel 15/cable 11. A Growing Passion is all about passionate gardeners and their gardens. In each episode Nan introduces viewers to some of her absolutely favorite gardens. She meets their owners, many of whom are also responsible for creating and maintaining these amazing gardens. These are ordinary people who happen to be extraordinary gardeners. They talk about how their gardens got started, the help they have gotten along the way, what they give to their gardens and what the gardens give back. The first episode ran in late December for those of us lucky enough to catch it. Look for more information at http://www.agrowingpassion.com/ . Finally take a look at the draft calendar below. That is our year. Note some changes from our ordinary schedule, dictated to us by the Botanical Garden Foundation. DAVID SILVERSTEIN David Silverstein Chair (619) 523 8565 chair@crfgsandiego.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Source for Cherimoya Fruit Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 15:34:04 -0800 From: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Hi, Leo. I'm looking for a retail source (preferably mail-order) for cherimoyas. I live in northern California. Any suggestions? Thanks. Kurt Mize Stockton, CA mailto:km1542@att.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Where Should I Locate To Grow Jackfruit, Papaya? Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 17:38:45 +0100 From: Siraj Chowdhury Dear Sir/Madam, I shall greatly appreciate your valuable advice: in which area in California we can grow Jackfruit, Papaya and Banana in California. Thank you. Siraj Chowdhury mailto:chowdhury1@un.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 14:21:49 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury Jack fruit will be hardest to grow, requiring the most heat and demanding that it stay above frost/freeze. So Southern California and probably a bit inland would be best. Then both papaya and banana will easily grow as well. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 15:49:53 +0100 From: Siraj Chowdhury Dear Leo, Many thanks for your prompt reply. As I am planning to retire from the UN, I am particularly interested to start a farm to grow jackfruit, papaya and banana. If your time permits, I shall greatly appreciate your advising me which area or the county in the South California would be most suitable. Thanking you again, Siraj D. Chowdhury Head, Administrative Legal Unit (ALU) Office of the Director of Administration United Nations Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK) Pristina, Kosovo mailto:chowdhury1@un.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:22:17 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury You will find that there are several obstacles to your plan. The cost of land is very expensive in California. Water is expensive and not a dependable resource, as drought would limit the amount available, with first priority going to the cities. The cost of the imported fruit of those trees is quite high, coming from countries where the costs of labor and land are much lower than ours. Advice from the state agriculture department as to climate studies that have been done should be sought so you can decide where to locate. There are areas of the state where the microclimate is suprisingly sub-tropical, where frosts and freezes seldom if ever occur. South Florida has better climate for jackfruit and other fruits with even more tropical requirements. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pitahaya Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 10:17:41 -0800 From: Joanne Gram Dear Dragon Fruit Grower and Publisher, I found you on the web from a Google search and I thought you might be interested in this article for our Huntington Desert Garden newsletter, The Jumping Cholla. We hope that it may be on-line soon atÊ http://www.huntington.org Other issues of the Jumping Cholla are found at http://www.huntington.org/botanicalÊ Sincerely,Ê Joanne Gram, Co-Editor Strawberry Pear/Dragon Fruit/Pitahaya Fruits of Cacti by Joanne Gram The Cactus and Succulent Society of America's journal for November-December 2005 has a few surprises inside.Ê Gavin Hart of Australia has produced a fascinating article onÊ Ê the ÒDragon Fruit.ÓÊ It even includes a photo of a plantation in New South Wales at latitude 29¡ South (the Vallance Orchard Nursery), and an ad for dragon fruit.Ê The fruit was also featured recently in the LA Times.Ê Outside of Australia it is cultivated in Southern California in Fallbrook and the Coachella Valley, Israel, Vietnam, Mexico, Central America (e.g., Nicaragua) and South America (e.g., Colombia).Ê Agricultural scientists have visited the Huntington Botanical Gardens in the past to observe our plants, and have obtained seeds and cuttings in order to hybridize the fruit. The French introduced Hylocereus undatus to Vietnam 100 years ago, and it is the country's most profitable crop.Ê The flower is one of the largest in the cactus family and may exceed 40 cm in length and have a 20 cm diameter (a foot is about 30 cm).Ê These are the premier cactus fruit and they have no spines.Ê Instead, they have medium-sized fleshy Òscales.Ó In the Americas they are called the strawberry pear and in Asia, the dragon fruit.Ê Matt Stevens, Editor of the Huntington New Frontiers, said while traveling he found out that dragon fruit is his favorite fruit.Ê Hart lists over sixty other kinds of cacti that produce various fruits with marketing potential, including our very spiny prickly pears, Opuntia.Ê The Huntington Desert Garden has perhaps ten dragon fruit plants which include the genera, Hylocereus,with its elongated and tri-flattened stems, and Selenicereus, with its cylindrical, very elongated stems.Ê Both of these are found climbing sometimes to spectacular heights on our palm trees in the upper part of the Desert Garden.Ê They grow semi-epiphytically with their many short, brown aerial roots clinging to the trees and collecting the dew at night. These species originated in tropical America and have even been observed hanging onto cliffs on barren ocean islets near Panama. Ê Two species,Ê Hylocereus polyrhizus and Selenicereus megalanthus, are promoted by an Australian nursery, Daley's Fruit Tree Nursery http://www.daleysfruit.com.au.Ê Dragon fruit is also grown in the Northern Territory of Australia by Karlsson Tropical Fruits at 12¡S.Ê In Adelaide, South Australia, at 35¡ S, you can buy dragon fruits ofÊ Hylocereus undatus.Ê In Adelaide, you can buy the fruits for $4 each, and in Vietnam, local dragon fruits sell for 25 cents each. Ê Sometimes these fruits, from Hylocereus polyrhizus, are called pitahayas.Ê The article has a picture of a cut fruit that is red inside and that weighs over a pound.Ê An ad is pictured with the phrases: ÒRed Dragon Fruit, I'm ideal for decoration and garnishing, Eat me fresh with lemon or lime juice, I'll store up to 3 weeks in the fridge, I have rich, deep red pulp inside, Use me as a base for drinks, Delicious with ice cream, I'm a great mixer with lemonade, Enjoy the world's latest fruit sensation.Ó For home gardens, Harrisia pomanensis (H. bonplandii) is recommended by Gavin Hart because the plant is smaller and produces abundant although different fruit at a latitude similar to ours.Ê This one is native to Argentina, Bolivia and Paraguay.Ê The fruits are 5 cm in diameter and the flesh is white, crunchy and juicy with many small black seeds. The website http://www.rarefruit.com/pitahayabook.html and e-mail rarefruit@san.rr.com will provide information from a California grower. Joanne Gram mailto:jhgram@earthlink.net <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 18:04:04 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Nave Subject: Pawpaws-great discussion of flavors The following link has a very good discussion of pawpaws with photos. In particular there is a great discussion of pawpaw flavors and the primary author's thought that pawpaw edibility should be evaluated at three different stages. I'm not sure about three stages but I do think that pawpaws should be eaten and evaluated at two different stages--when still quite firm and when soft-because they are in some ways different fruits at those stages. http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/27783.html ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 12:12:22 -0500 From: Subject: Miracle Fruit In Pill Form Here is an article about miracle fruit in a new commercial pill form.... http://www.food-business-review.com/article_news.asp?guid=DCF7D565-F10B-45F9-B58E-6B611CFF59BC ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 14:03:52 -0000 From: "brbrunner" Subject: Miracle fruit tablets available online The new miracle fruit tablets are now available online... see this article: http://www.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/getarticle.pl5?nn20060118f2.htm Here is the website (now if we could only get Ken to translate it for us!!!): http://www.miracle-fruit.net/ Bryan Puerto Rico ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 01:00:59 -0000 From: "rarefruit2003" Subject: Grafting Made Easy by using Parafilm M I wrote this for Florida Gardening Magazine. Parafilm for me is the only way. Sorry, but the photos were removed. If anyone wants the word.doc please let me know and I can e-mail the word file. Thanks! Charles Grafting Made Easy By Charles Novak Scion: The part of a plant used for grafting upon the rootstock. Rootstock: The root-bearing plant on which the Scion will be grafted. Parafilm M: A stretchable, wax-like tape. The product has been widely used for routine laboratory work for many years. Why Graft? Some varieties of plants do not come true from seeds. Difficult or impossible to reproduce from cuttings or other propagation techniques. Using a rootstock better adapted to the prevailing soil and climate than scion produced naturally. Dwarfing rootstock can be used to greatly reduce the size of the tree. To increase the supply of new varieties rapidly. Change a tree from an old to a new variety. Grafted fruit trees have earlier fruit productions. Multiple grafts to produce a tree with several varieties or flowering plant with several different colors of flowers Rootstock can be selected for characteristics that the scion may not have, such as resistance to root rot or is tolerance to parasitic organisms; such as nematodes, insect larvae or other subterranean pests. What is Grafting? Grafting is the process of joining two or more different plants and enabling them to grow as one. The upper part of the graft (the scion) becomes the top of the plant; the lower portion (the rootstock) becomes the root system or part of the trunk. Although grafting usually refers to joining only two plants, it may be a combination of several. What are the limitations? Not all plants can be grafted. Plants of the same botanical genus and species can usually be grafted even though they are not the same variety. Plants with the same genus but of a different species may often be grafted. For the most successful grafting only chose closely related plants to form a compatible union. Generally, this means apple-to-apple, rose-to-rose. Incompatible grafts may not form a union, or the union may be weak. A poor union results in plants that grow poorly, break off or eventually die. Trial is the only way to determine plantsÁ| compatibility. Some rootstock and scion materials are difficult to get and some plants are not as easily grafted. This can often result in a quite high percentage of loss. This explains why some grafted trees are more expensive. How to Collect and Store Scions? Scion wood can collected when available. It should have a diameter of 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Length of scion can be from a few inches to more than 2 feet. Defoliate the scion and wrap the entire scion - cuts, buds, and stem - in stretched Parafilm M. Wrapping scion with Parafilm M beneficially conserves the internal moisture of the plant tissue. Parafilm M stretches; therefore, a little goes a long way. Cut the Parafilm M into two one inches strips. If the scion cannot be grafted when obtained, store the scion in a plastic bag in the refrigerator with moist paper towels until performing the graft. If wrapped in Parafilm M the scion can be stored for many weeks. Do not store in a freezer. When to Graft? It is best to graft in the spring, from the time the buds of rootstock trees are beginning to open, until blossom time. The usual time is April or early May. But this should not limit you from grafting at anytime of the year. Graft when scions become available. What Tools and Materials are Needed? Knife. A good quality knife, able to hold a sharp edge, is the key to good grafting. Special grafting and budding knives are desirable. Keep material to sharpen the knife handy. Pruning Shears. Grafting tape. Parafilm M. Fungicide ÁV Spray bottle of Alcohol. Label spray bottle. Clothes pins. Label for identifying the rootstock and scion (Name, variety, and date of the graft). Grafting Techniques Defoliate the scion and wrap the entire scion - cuts, buds, and stem - in Parafilm M; (remember to stretch the Parafilm M) the buds will grow through the Parafilm M without damage or restriction. (Note: Parafilm M is heat- and photosensitive and decomposes when exposed to direct sunlight for longer than a few minutes.) Store in a cool location. There are many different types of grafting techniques. The cleft graft is one of the most commonly used and the simplest type of graft to perform. 1. Fungicide tools and hands - spray hands, grafting knife and pruning shears with alcohol. 2. Match the scion and rootstock diameters precisely; this maximizes the chance of matching the cambiums. 3. The defoliated scion from a healthy plant should contain at least one completely dormant node on second-year wood which has had all soft, active growth removed. 4. The stock should be an actively growing seedling (do the grafting during the warmer months ÁV in Florida grafting can be done year round). 5. (See diagram below) Cut the scion (A) and fashion its base into a thin, narrow wedge. A large contact surface area will increase the rate of healing. (Hardness part of a cleft graft) Do not touch the cut surfaces, or allow them to dry out. 6. Cut the rootstock at right angles to the stem in mature wood preferably close to a node. Make (B) a single vertical cut down the middle of the stem. The cut should be the same length as the wedge of the scion. Make sure that all cuts are straight and precise; use a very sharp grafting knife (Rock the knife back and forth ÁV use care not to cut yourself). Do not touch the cut surfaces, or allow them to dry out. 6. Force (C) the wedge into the slit which was made in the rootstock; no gaps should be apparent. Always match the cambium layers on one side during the tying process; donÁ|t worry if both sides are not matching 7. Wrap the graft with stretched Parafilm M. Ensure that all points are covered with Parafilm M. Air and water must be excluded from the graft-point if a successful union is to occur. 8. Wrap the (D) graft firmly with Grafting tape, tying from just below the graft and working up. Care should be taken not to force the scion from the stock when traversing the join. Clothespins can help hold the graft together while wrapping with grafting tape. 9. Label graft with name, variety, rootstock and date of the graft. 10. Place the plant in a stress-free environment such as a shaded (50-90%) area. 11. Examine regularly. The dormant nodes should burst in about 3 to 4 weeks. Remove any buds that develop below the graft point. 12. Remove the grafting tape at a later date. Some reasons for Graft Failure. Rootstock and scion were not compatible. The cambiums were not meeting properly. Scions were upside down (Some plants can be successful grafted upside down). Grafting was done at the wrong time of the year (Most plant can be grafted year around). Rootstock or scion were not healthy Scions were dried out or injured by cold. The scion was displaced by storm, birds, or other means. Insects or disease attacked the graft. The graft union was girdled because tape was not cut or released in time. But the main reason for Failure is not trying! <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Plant Compounds Could Aid Blood Flow Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 07:52:17 -0500 From: ARS News Service View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr An Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientist has identified, defined and developed look-alike versions of two potentially heart-healthy compounds produced naturally by plants. Sufficient amounts of the compounds--either in foods or as dietary supplements--may prove to inhibit the early stages of blood clotting that are associated with heart disease. The research was conducted by ARS biochemist Jae B. Park at the Beltsville (Md.) Human Nutrition Research Center's Phytonutrient Laboratory. The chemical structures of the two compounds and their biological activities were detailed in a 2005 patent application. Rigorous testing and regulatory approval are required before any products based on the compounds are released. Park synthesized a larger quantity of the compounds than is likely found naturally in foods. In separate tests, he exposed each compound to blood collected from mice. Both compounds suppressed a natural process in which platelets--disk-shaped cells circulating in the blood--stick to other blood cells inside blood vessel walls. Platelets release chemicals that cause the cascade of events that results in formation of plugs, or clots, at the site of injury within blood vessels. At this time, it is not known whether the amounts of these newly identified compounds normally present in foods are sufficient to cause the inhibitory effect on platelets. Park is now studying the compounds in a number of plant sources to gauge their potency. Read more about this research in the January 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/plant0106.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of AgricultureÕs chief scientific research agency. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rooting for Helpful Fungi Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 09:32:47 -0500 From: ARS News Service View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr Beneficial soil fungi that help plants grow could become easier for farmers to use, based on research by Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists who are studying these valuable organisms. The fungi, called mycorrhizal fungi, live inside and outside root cells and help them reach for nutrients by extending long threads called hyphae into the soil. The plant, in exchange, provides the fungi glucose and possibly other organic materials that they need to survive. Unfortunately, modern agricultural practices have reduced populations of arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi, the most common type. By learning more about AM fungi physiology and finding ways to grow colonies without host plants, ARS scientists at the Eastern Regional Research Center in Wyndmoor, Pa., hope to make the fungi a practical option for producers. Currently, researchers cannot cultivate an AM fungus without a host because the fungus can't complete its life cycle without the organic nutrients or other stimuli it receives from roots. Gerald Nagahashi, a chemist/cell biologist at ERRC, has been focusing on the events that must occur before the fungus can colonize a host plant. He developed a bioassay showing that host root components--including chemical compounds exuding from the roots, root caps and root border cells--induce fungal hyphal branching. The increase in branching creates a greater potential for the fungus to find and attach to the host root surface. Nagahashi and David D. Douds, an ERRC microbiologist, investigated how environmental factors, such as chemical compounds from host roots, blue light from the sunÕs spectrum, and carbon dioxide, affect AM fungal growth, either individually or together. Their techniques involved growing host roots in sterile culture and using sterile fungal spores to study various environmental factors individually or in combination. They found that these three factors--root chemicals, blue light and carbon dioxide--can all work independently to promote growth in AM fungi but are even more effective when applied together. Read more about this research in the January 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/root0106.htm <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200602A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - February 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200602B.txt _______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Second Knee Replacement Surgery 2/17 I need it but had hoped to get it in January. Our recent warm weather has had weeds coming up all over. I'll be getting a Mexican worker to help me keep up with them. It's hard to get much physical work done with crutches. Recent warm weather has several fruit trees showing bloom earlier than normal. Most mango trees are also beginning to bloom, even Kent and Keitt, which still have most of their fruit. Tell us what's happening in your yard. Have you come across any interesting and useful web pages? <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> I Would Love To Get Your Newsletter E-Mails Kathy Diewald New Subscriber, Louisiana, Has Rare Fruit Ambition James Shoop <><><> Readers Write <><><> Re: White sapote dilema Eunice Messner To: annabell@skripek.net I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees in Stockton, CA MIZE, KURT Re: I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees Eunice Messner To: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Re: Apricot dilemma Matthew Shugart To: nsterman@PlantSoup.Com El Cajon, frost, and chill hours Matthew Shugart To: holisticgardener@yahoo.com Rare Fruit News Online - Mine Stopped Oliveira Silva Florida Citrus Canker Update Shirley Dellerson Looking for pawpaw scions Michael Zarky Ventura and Santa Barbara CRFG February '06 Norman Beard Pike fruit from Brazil - Information Needed Jaime Arango <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: I Would Love To Get Your Newsletter E-Mails Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 21:35:04 -0800 (PST) From: Kathy Diewald Dear Leo, My name is Kathy Diewald, we live in Costa Mesa, CA. We moved into our house in 1979. We planted avocados, oranges, lemon, lime, macadamia nuts, guavas of all sorts, feijoas, pomegranates, jiro (mislabeled fuyu) persimmons, passion fruit, grapes, raspberries, boysenberries, apples, pears, figs, kumquats and cherimoyas. Some of the above we have numerous varieties of them. Thank you, Kathy Diewald mailto:mccwald@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Louisiana, Has Rare Fruit Ambition Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:27:42 -0600 From: James Shoop Hey, I've been enjoying the archives of your newsletter, and thought I'd sign up. My name is James Shoop. I live in Southeastern Louisiana, north of Lake Ponchatrain. Not quite a tropical climate, but I'm interested in growing in pots and bringing things in during freezes, which are not too terribly common. I'd also like to build a greenhouse soon. Among the rare fruits I'm currently growing (or trying to) are Jujube, Medlar, Paw Paw, Chinese Haw, Kiwi (I guess not so rare), goumi. The only "tropical" fruits I'm growing right now several citrus trees. That will soon change, hopefully. I like to grow mangoes, passionfruit, starfruit, and several others. I also grow more common fruits. I have one acre of blueberries and several pear trees and some peaches, etc. I'm very interested in commercial cultivation of Pawpaws, Asimina triloba. James mailto:wrath.of.achilles@gmail.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Re: White sapote dilema Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 09:33:39 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: annabell@skripek.net Annabell Don't give up on your white sapote tree. I had a grafted McDill sapote that took eight years before it fruited. It became an enormous tree that I doubt could ever be contained by pruning. It was so messy that I took it out. I now have a "Nettie" , pear shaped fruit that I like better. It fruits more sparingly in July and December/January. Alas, it is also a big tree. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees in Stockton, CA Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 15:24:00 -0800 From: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Hi, Leo. I'm looking for a retail source (preferably mail-order) for cherimoya trees. I live in northern California. Any suggestions? Thanks. Kurt Mize Stockton, CA mailto:km1542@att.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 09:38:01 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Kurt The California Rare Fruit Growers website has a list of member nurseries. www.crfg.org You will find there a list of where to buy cherimoya trees. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Apricot dilemma Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 11:34:05 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart To: nsterman@PlantSoup.Com Nan, I have grown several varieties of apricot over the last decade, formerly in Carlsbad and now in Bonsall. From previous correspondence, I would guess that your typical amount of chill is somewhat greater than I got in Carlsbad, and less than I get on the lowest part of my current property in Bonsall. Chill is not the only limiting factor for apricots in southern California, but it is probably the biggest one. Katy is recommended by many local nurseries, but in my experience is neither particularly reliable, nor a very high quality fruit. Gold Kist is also recommended, and while it is high quality, it is also not very reliable. In my experience at both locations, the most reliable varieties have been Newcastle and Royal, with Newcastle slightly more reliable. I also think Newcastle is superior in flavor to all other varieties I have grown, other than Moorpark (which is marginal on the chilling for me in Bonsall). I have seen Katy listed as requiring 250 chill hours, which is laughable. Gold Kist is said to be 300-400, which is also worth a chuckle or two. I keep detailed temperature, bloom, and production records, and Newcastle is the only variety that I can say with some confidence has a chilling requirement below 400 hours, although contrary to most printed sources, I think Royal probably has, too. The two new late-season apricots (Earli Autumn and Autumn Glo) also look like they will be good, though perhaps not heavy bearers. I have had them for only two years, so it's hard to say. I never tried them in Carlsbad, but I did grow Autumn Royal, which fruited in colder years, but tends to crack, and is not nearly as late as Earli Autumn and Autumn Glo. I am also a big fan of the Flavor Delight Aprium, which tastes like an extremely rich apricot and appears to have quite a low chilling requirement. (I never tried it in Carlsbad, however.) I am with Jose: Don't take the tree out. Graft! Put Royal, Newcastle and other varieties on it, and I am sure you will have some good fruit! Matthew http://fruits.fruitsandvotes.com mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: El Cajon, frost, and chill hours Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 11:41:46 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart To: holisticgardener@yahoo.com Dear Connie: Welcome to Leo's list! You note that you do not get fruit on your nectarine and apricot trees and that you get no frost or chill on an east-facing slope in Rancho San Diego. Before taking the trees out, you should identify the varieties (if you do not already know), and consider grafting on to the limbs of your existing trees. You do not need to have frost to accumulate chill, and while slopes (especially east-facing, which warm up quickly in the morning) would not get much chill, you almost certainly get some (and probably more than you think!). Paul Fisher is on a hilltop in El Cajon, and if you look around his location, you would never imagine that he would get any chill--and he doesn't get any frost. Yet he has numerous varieties of stone fruit that are very successful on the lower part of his slope (and even his 'low' parts are still well above the valley). On specific varieties, see my message to Nan (like this one, copied to Leo and thus presumably to be in the next RFNO) on apricot varieties. On peaches and nectarines, in my opinion there are many low-chill varieties that are better than Flordaprince. For instance, Tropic Snow, Desert Delight, Arctic Star, etc. Matthew http://fruits.fruitsandvotes.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rare Fruit News Online - Mine Stopped Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 20:35:32 -0200 From: "Oliveira.Silva@terra.com.br" Hi Leo Manuel I don't receive the biweekly bulletins there are several months. I want to continue receiving the messages. Thiago Patos de Minas Brasil mailto:oliveira.silva@terra.com.br ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Florida Citrus Canker Update Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:08:32 -0500 From: Shirley Dellerson Hi Leo: A while ago I wrote about how unfair the citrus eradication program here in Florida was and my concern over losing my trees - Well guess whatÜthe program has been cancelled. NO trees will be cut down - that includes those already infected with canker! I was lucky and so were my trees - Not so for my neigbors, including one man who lost 13 trees just 6 weeks ago to the "axe". Sometimes it does pay to fight. Thanks for all the kind words of encouragement from many of the subscribers. Shirley (West Palm Beach, FL) mailto:shaindy@mindspring.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking for pawpaw scions Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 07:42:30 -0800 From: Michael Zarky Hi Leo, That was a very useful link to the Cloudforest Cafe about pawpaws, in the last issue. Thanks for all your work in putting out RFNO. I'm looking for pawpaw scion wood. I wonder if any readers has some to share. I have some seedlings I would like to graft over (none has flowered yet); the local scion exchanges rarely have any paw paws. I have Sunflower surviving from the original 4 varieties I bought. It's a bit of a struggle here with the alkaline soil and water. I'd be happy to share the Sunflower and I also have some interesting peach varieties, one quite low chill, and other things that I can share. Please email me directly. Thank you, Michael mailto:mzarky@earthlink.net Moorpark, CA USA 93021 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Ventura and Santa Barbara CRFG February '06 Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 20:41:40 -0800 From: Norman Beard Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter February, 2006 FEBRUARY MEETING When: February 25, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon Where: Monte Vista Elementary School, 730 N. Hope Ave., Santa Barbara. Directions: From the South: In Santa Barbara, exit 101 Fwy at La Cumbre/Hope Ave. Go STRAIGHT; you'll be on Hope Ave. going towards the mountains. Proceed past State Street (La Cumbre Plaza will be on your left) a few more blocks to 730 N. Hope. to the Monte Vista School. Signs will direct you to the meeting site. From the North: Exit 101 Fwy at La Cumbre Rd. and turn LEFT onto La Cumbre heading towards the mountains. Turn RIGHT onto State Street (La Cumbre Plaza will be on your right) and go one block; turn LEFT onto Hope Ave. and proceed several blocks to 730 N. Hope (see above). Agenda: (i) Apple Grafting; (ii) The Monte Vista Garden Hosts: Dr. Joe Sabol, retired professor of Agriculture; Chapter member Judy Sims Description: APPLE GRAFTING: We are fortunate to have the "King of Apple Grafting" - yes, the King - for this meeting, so don't miss this opportunity to have Professor Joe Sabol, retired from Cal-Poly at San Luis Obispo, teach you apple grafting. Please bring $2 with you, as we must pay for the rootstock and supplies. Norm Beard will bring the buckets and planting mix. Joe has been teaching High School Agriculture classes all over California on how to graft an apple tree. Now it's your turn! Joe will bring with him a good rootstock from Colorado and apple scion wood from member Patricia Bragg's apple orchard. After you have successfully grafted the gala apple tree, it's yours to take home! MONTE VISTA GARDEN: Judy Sims welcomes you to Monte Vista Elementary School, where she enjoyed a 37-year teaching career with various positions. Judy has spearheaded garden and nutrition programs, utilizing grant and community support. She will share the butterfly gardens, half-acre native plant nature trail, vegetable and herb gardens, worm farm, and the recently developed 3,000 sq. ft. orchard garden (to which our Chapter has contributed), where we will meet. SAVE the Date: MARCH MEETING Although not confirmed yet, the meeting will most likely be on March 18th at Alan Schroeder's in Santa Barbara. GROWING CHERRIES by Co-Chair Norm Beard "For your information, at the January meeting, many questions arose about raising Cherries. The cold chill on Cherries is too high for us to raise most Cherries in this area. Today, I spoke to Tom Spellman of Dave Wilson Nursery about the English Morrelo Cherry tree I have growing here and a huge tree I saw at one of our members' home that produces many sour pie cherries. Tom stated even though it calls for 700 chill hours, it probably requires only about 200 chill hours; that is why it is producing a good crop in this location. "Many members want to grow Bing cherry trees; again, they need high chill hours. So what is recommended for this area is a Lapins Cherry tree from Canada. It is self-fruitful and produces large, firm, dark red sweet cherries with good flavor; similar to Van in color and Bing in shape. Sometimes it is sold as a self-fertile Bing, it ripens 4 days after Bing. It requires 500 chill hours, but there has been success in growing these cherries in this area. Both of these trees can be bought from Beard's Nursery at 968-0989." For Membership in California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc, send $30 to CRFG, Inc., Fullerton Arboretum-CSUF, PO Box 6850, Fullerton, CA 92834-6850 AND $10 (for Local Dues) to Roland Messori 355 Sierra Vista Rd., Santa Barbara, CA 93108 Send Address Changes to BOTH the parent and local organizations (addresses above). ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pike fruit from Brazil - Information Needed Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 07:51:41 -0800 (PST) From: Jaime Arango Sir, I am looking for information on a fruit from Brazil called "Pike" that they use for cooking with rice. I need information on availability in the US and planting. Thanks before hand, Jaime <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200602B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - March 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200603A.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Surgery Aftermath - My left knee replacement surgery was Friday, February 17, early afternoon. It's good to have it behind me. The biggest problem I have in working on this newsletter is that my narcotic pain medicine makes it very hard to have a clear head. Also, I'm always sleepy. So, I'm not totally responsible for anything I do with this newsletter. I know you will understand and overlook the blunders. I will make more than the usual number of mistakes because I am trying to use the PowerBook (Apple notebook) computer, which lacks a 'standard' keyboard with external mouse. The other major excuse for errors is that I have hiccoughs (hiccups) that are non-stop for hours at a time, then vanish for a few hours. Don't waste your time telling me remedies, as none work predictably for me (and, I have tried lots of them.) Enough excuses! It's time to get this newsletter out. Anyway, after a few problems, I'm doing very well and progressing at least as well if not better than last time. However, there are some early-spring tasks, such as air-layering, that will have to be postponed. We are getting a significant amount of rain, beginning yesterday in the early afternoon. We really needed it! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Puerto Vallarta Mexico raul gonzalez New Subscriber - Hungtington Beach, CA Carol Hill New Subscriber - Vista, California Paul Barbano <><><> Readers Write <><><> Paw Paw in hot climates? Doug Jones Re: Paw Paw in hot climates? Leo Manuel To: Doug Jones Re: What Is Pike? gerardo garcia To: jimmyarango@yahoo.com leo manuel = racist josŽ perez To: rarefruit@san.rr.com Re: leo manuel = racist Leo Manuel To: josŽ perez Definitive SoCal Apple Guide (Check This Out! -Leo) Joel A. Johnson Dragon Fruit Survive Pennsylvania Winters In Sunroom? NOONE, CHRISTOPHER Papayas (Note: Aussie PawPaw = US Papaya -Leo) Barry Hicks Re: My Experience With Apricots Cheryl Noble Pineapple, Coffee, Mangoe, Sapodilla Todd Abel Re: Pike - Fruit Of Brazil? Kuniko Iwamoto Haga Feb 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Chapter Zhenxing Fu Pitaya fruit for research Jason Avent Leo's Hiccoughs - February, 2006 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex Neotropical Blueberries Scott D. Russell http://www.nybg.org/bsci/res/lut2/ <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Cicada Fungus May Have Medical Potential ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Puerto Vallarta Mexico Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 19:40:43 -0600 (CST) From: raul gonzalez Hi Guys, I«m Raul Gonzalez, living in Puerto Vallarta Mexico, I enter in the "rare" fruit world about 3 years ago, now I have about 60-70 dif. Fruits most of them arent bearing yet, I really love annonas I`m looking for atemoya seeds of some cultivar like 48-26, hillari white, page, etc, to trade now I have seeds of ilama, and in the next month some very good custard apples with red skin & purple sweet flesh, if somebody is interested In trading let me know... Raul mailto:raulglezruiz@yahoo.com.mx ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Hungtington Beach, CA Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 12:05:13 -0500 (EST) From: Carol Hill Hi! I found your site by researching dragon fruit on the 'net. I bought one at Mother's Market, shared it with coworkers, and couldn't believe how good it was. I saved the seeds in the flesh, and wanted to know how to propogatge it. My name is Carol Hill and I live in Huntington Beach, CA. Most things grow here, semi-tropical, but it will get frost here, but also hot. Several times I started a batch (13+) of seedling trees from the cherimoya fruit I happened to try. I found out later that was no small fete, and then later I found out a plant reseracher started growing them in Cardiff, California! I looked it up and found out how many nutrients it had in it! I want to grow my trees (I have 10 left, I gave the others as gifts) larger, but have them in a pot right now (they are about a foot high). I also want eventually to grow star fruit, Citriflora Mmorani, and the other ones known for such rich nutrients. I grew up watching my grandmother handle quite a bit of land growing a complete range of fruits, vegetables and fruit trees in Washington (cold1). She even grew watermelon! I feel we all should be livinng like that. Healthier, and more harmonious,and closer to nature. Thank you so much for your wite! What a joy! Happy chatting with you. Bye for now. -- Carol ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Vista, California Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 00:04:41 -0500 From: Paul Barbano Hi, My name is Paul Barbano, in Vista California. So far I am growing papaya and a cara cara pink navel orange tree. I am a lifetime member of seed Savers Exchange and write a weekly garden and farm column for the Cape Gazette newspapers, even though I've been away from Delaware for some years. Please put me on you mailing list. Thanks. Paul mailto:paulbarbano@hotmail.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Paw Paw in hot climates? Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 18:45:46 -0700 From: Doug Jones To: Leo Manuel I enjoy the newsletter every month, although I seldom reply. I reply now to see if anyone has grown pawpaws in a hot climate. I tasted the fruit at a CRFG meeting awhile back and really liked it, so I tried to grow my own. I guess the climate here in Mesa Arizona (near Phoenix) doesn't agree with the trees, because they all succomb to the heat. I've tried 4-5 grafted ones and a number of seedlings and a number of seeds planted in the ground. I'm about ready to give up unless someone knows of a variety or way to beat the heat. Any ideas? Doug Jones mailto:fruitguy@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Paw Paw in hot climates? Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:30:33 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Doug Jones Hi Doug I'll post your question in the next newsletter. Have you tried using shade cloth to reduce the heat? Maybe, with misting, for cooling? Hopefully, someone will have had experience in dealing with this problem. The young trees are frequently growing in shade in the wild. Good luck! Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: re: What Is "Pike"? Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:42:10 -0500 From: gerardo garcia To: jimmyarango@yahoo.com Jaime, my guess is you're looking for pequi vinagrero (also called piqui vinagreiro), Caryocar edule, C. nuciferum, C. brasiliense and other Caryocar spp., which have a pulp which is mixed with rice. Go to http://www.bibvirt.futuro.usp.br/especiais/frutasnobrasil/pequi.html and check if this is what you're looking for (if you read Spanish or Portuguese it should be easier, if not just check the pictures). No idea who would have it stateside, though, but if you go to , the website of the Companhia do Vale do Rio Doce, they manage a huge forest reserve in the state of Esp’rito Santo and might be willing to supply you with seeds. Good luck - you'll need it! Gerardo mailto:manilkara@hotmail.com > > Sir, > > I am looking for information on a fruit from Brazil called "Pike" > that they use for cooking with rice. I need information on > availability in the US and planting. > > Thanks before hand, > > Jaime ------------------------------------------------ Subject: leo manuel = racist Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 02:13:13 +0000 From: josŽ perez To: rarefruit@san.rr.com Second Knee Replacement Surgery 2/17 I need it but had hoped to get it in January. Our recent warm weather has had weeds coming up all over. I'll be getting a Mexican worker to help me keep up with them. It's hard to get much physical work done with crutches. I believe you are racist telling this. Can«t you just say will hire a person to help you? You actually must say it«s a mexican worker to whom you«ll pay less since they are alien in your country. Can«t be a person from HonduraS? Russia? Spain? Colombia? You need go to a shrink to get you well. Well, at least God already is teaching you something about being fair with others, especially with those less fortunate. And I want to be deleted from your racist web site. Hope you don«t do well on your surgery. mailto:lecuack23@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: leo manuel = racist Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:01:04 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: josŽ perez Hi JosŽ I apologize for offending you. Felipe (the Mexican I referred to in that remark) is a very good friend, who has worked with me for quite a few years in our yard. I pay him much more than minimum wage, because he is invaluable to me. I have used workers from other countries than Mexico, including Gringos of Southern California, but hope Felipe continues to work with me, as he has been the best. I will remove your name from the mailing list when I find it. So far I have not located it either by this email address or by your name. It is a puzzle to me that you could receive messages from here. I can't find your name or email address as ever having been on the mailing list. I am actually glad you wrote about the appearance of racism that may have that may have been present in my remark. Sincerely, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Definitive SoCal Apple Guide (Check This Out! -Leo) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 19:00:19 -0800 From: "Joel A. Johnson" Leo, I don't remember where I got the link, and if it was from the newsletter I bow my head in shame, but your inquiry about "interesting and useful webpages" prompted me to make sure folks knew about the incredible info at http://www.inlandempire-crfg.org/pics_index/Growing_Apples.pdf Surely, a more complete treatise on low-chill apples does not exist! PS. I contacted the listed sources for scion wood, and the response was jaw dropping... Nick Botner sent a 12-page list of apple, pear, cherry, plum, and grape varieties available for $3.50 a piece, and Joyce Neighbors has a large selection of southern apples at $5 including shipping. My order is on it's way! Joel A. Johnson mailto:joel@aridscapes.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit Survive Pennsylvania Winters In Sunroom? Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 13:40:49 -0500 From: "NOONE, CHRISTOPHER" Hello, I live in Bucks County, PA and will be constructing a sunroom/greenhouse in the next couple of months. I have a dragonfruit plant (1 "stalk" about 8 inches long) and am wondering if you think it will do well in a sunroom in PA? Christopher Noone mailto:spacru04@allstate.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Papayas (Note: Aussie PawPaw = US Papaya) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 09:49:02 +1000 From: Barry Hicks Hello Leo I have a query about male pawpaws (papayas) that someone may be about to help me with. Does anyone know what prompts male pawpaws to fruit? Some trees seem keen to set a crop and others don't. Barry Hicks, Australia mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: My Experience With Apricots Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:53:58 -0800 (PST) From: Cheryl Noble I live off the 94 Freeway in San Diego just before Lemon Grove and I get apricots on several very young trees. Forget frost and there isn't much chill either. The trick that makes apricot happen I learned from a book on pruning. Apricots, peaches, apples and the like are spur fruit. That means they fruit on side shoots, new growth off the main branches. Every year about this time or sooner (like after I harvest all the fruit) I cut the growing tips off the main branches (also to keep the tree shorter for easier picking). This sends side shoots out and when spring comes, out comes the flowers and then fruit follows. I'm having rather good luck with Anna apples also. The trees are tiny but prolific, usually 2 crops of apples a year. The are great for pies, sauce or eating if you like tangy apples. I don't get frost but have been warned it could happen. If I h! ear a frost warning I'd do what my parents did and throw an old sheet or tarp over my banana trees for the night. By the way, I have probably 50 or so fruit trees on a half acre of land, I've been her 4 1/2 years so all are younger than 4 1/2 years old. I use a drip system on timers to water. I'm no expert but I'm having fun and it beats letting the land turn into a weed patch as it was when I bought the place. Cheryl Noble mailto:noble.c@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pineapple, Coffee, Mangoe, Sapodilla Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:55:39 -0800 From: Todd Abel We just finished our 5th Pineapple this year. It was excellent and quite large, and the 90 degree heat really ripened it last week. I canÕt believe how well the Pineapples have done. It took about 2 yrs from the tops of fruit. Now I have planted the tops from the five fruit we ate this last year. The Coffee crop is excellent this year. The plants are about 4-5 ft tall, and have over a pound of beans each. I am just not sure how I will try to roast them. The best idea I have read about, was using a mesh roisterer on a barbecue. The Coffee was a joke, just like the Pineapples. WhoÕs laughing nowÉ I have a Mabrouka Mango that has flowered like mad. [Sounds like my "PSM" mango - in continuous bloom December I just hope they can hang in there with the impending cool down this weekend in SoCal. Interestingly the flies love it, but no Bees. The Sapodilla must have over 100 fruits at only 5-6 ft. The tree is very hardy and did not loose any fruit over the winter last year. So good, and worth planting. The Tamarind has two fruit just doing their best to hang in there. The tree has grown to over 8ft, and looking healthy. Again, hope the knee goes well. Todd Abel mailto:table@socal.rr.com Orange, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Pike - Fruit Of Brazil? Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 08:53:02 -0300 From: Kuniko Iwamoto Haga Dear Leo, Do you know another name for it? Kuniko mailto:kuniko@bio.feis.unesp.br >Sir, > >I am looking for information on a fruit from Brazil called "Pike" >that they use for cooking with rice. I need information on >availability in the US and planting. > >Thanks before hand, > >Jaime mailto:jimmyarango@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Feb 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Chapter Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:01:56 -0800 From: Zhenxing Fu For those of you whose membership due is expired, please renew it with Paul Fisher whose contact info is in this newsletter. Thank you very much! Please note that the calendar has been finalized. Paul Fisher was able to get those Friday meetings back to Thursday, including the February meeting. November and December are still third Friday instead of fourth Thursday as usual. Note also, San Diego Home and Garden Show is coming up March 3-5 at the fairgrounds in Del Mar. We want a few good volunteers to staff our place and spread the word about CRFG. Call our own June Anderson at 760 729 3501 to sign up. Parking is 8 dollars, but we will have a couple of parking passes that you can use if you coordinate. David Silverstein -- Chair (619) 523 8565 chair@crfgsandiego.org Paul Fisher --Vice-Chair, Membership Manager and Treasurer (619) 440 2213 Barry Resetco (858) 278-3732 and Jack Skeels (619) 465-3312 Ð Facilities Team Zhenxing Fu -- Newsletter Editor (858) 587-2723 editor@crfgsandiego.org Linnea Lamar, Secretary, 619 392-9815 theearthwalker@cox.net Jim Neitzel (619) 262-8959 and Mike McCright 619-384-1989, Program and Event Coordinators eventscoordinator@cfrgsandiego.org Jose Gallego Ð Webmaster and Director of National Affairs (619) 697-4417 webmaster@crfgsandiego.org Irene Sias Ð Greeter (619) 482-0938 Greeter@CRFGSanDiego.org Oscar Butler Ð Librar’an, 858-458-3533 mbutlr@pacbell.net For membership, please mail your application form and check to: CRFG, San Diego Chapter C/O Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 KUMQUAT MARMALADE á 3 qts. Water á 2 doz. kumquats á 2 med. oranges á 1/3 c. lemon juice á 4 1/2 c. honey 1. Thinly slice the kumquats to measure 2 cups. Slice the orange peel and the orange pulp to measure 1 1/2 cups each. Add the water to the fruit, cover, and let and overnight. 2. Bring to a boil and cook until the peel is tender. Add the honey and stir occasionally until it dissolves. Resume the rapid boil and cook about 45 minutes until the mixture reaches the gel point. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. 3. Spoon into hot sterilized jars to within 1/2 inch from top. Complete seals and process for 10 minutes in a boiling-water bath. 4. Makes 8 half-pints. Zhenxing Fu mailto:zfu@ucsd.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pitaya fruit for research Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 19:16:36 -0600 From: Jason Avent My name is Jason Avent, I am a doctoral candidate in Botany at The University of Texas. I am a student in Dr. Tom MabryÕs laboratory and I am very interested in the properties of pitaya fruits. How might I obtain some of the more fluorescent cactus fruits with high pigment concentrations (particularly hylocerenin)? The particular variety of red-purple cactus with high levels of hylocerinin is Hylocereus polyrhizus (Weber) Britton & Rose, Cactaceae. If you know where I might obtain some of this fruit or frozen fruit juice, it would help my research greatly and may make an important niche market for dragon fruit that other betalinic plants will not fill. Best, Jason Avent mailto:jaavent@mail.utexas.edu ------------------------------------------------ Leo's Hiccoughs - February, 2006 I don't believe many people experience the level of hiccoughing that I have had since this recent surgery. Some of the time they have been mild with no evidence of the episodes. I was free of the problem when I began this, so decided to try to describe it at its worst. However, before finishing, it's overtaken me again. The sound made is not a literal "hiccup" with an interval before the next "hiccup." It can instead be "hic-hic-hic-hic-hic..." with no indication of the completion of "cup-cup-cup-cup-cup..." because there is no breath to complete it. Sometimes I couldn't breathe and was fearful, until our pediatrician daughter assured me that while I might pass out, that my body would automatically get control back to breathe. Over the years, I've had maybe a half-dozen episodes of hiccoughs. Once when I had the 'flu back in the sixties it happened. A medical doctor gave me a prescription, but I don't remember whether it helped. Also during recovery from recent surgeries, I had episodes that were a nuisance, but not as disturbing as this most recent time. I apologize for diverting your attention away from fruit issues. Leo <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ Subject: Neotropical Blueberries Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 23:44:41 -0600 From: "Scott D. Russell" http://www.nybg.org/bsci/res/lut2/ The Neotropical Blueberries site "brings together as much information as possible about the plant family Ericaceae as it occurs within the Neotropics" (New World tropics -- Tropic of Cancer to Tropic of Capricorn). Much of the site concerns systematics, with detailed genus and species descriptions, dichotomous keys and floristic lists by neotropical country. Additional information is available on ethnobotany, plant/animal interactions, species in cultivation and over 1400 images. This site is by Dr. James L. Luteyn, New York Botanical Garden. (****) <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Cicada Fungus May Have Medical Potential Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:35:38 -0500 From: ARS News Service Some cicadas harbor a fungus that has biomedical potential, according to Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Cornell University scientists in Ithaca, N.Y. They studied Cordyceps heteropoda, a fungus that grows on and infects some species of cicadas. Plant physiologist Donna Gibson of ARSÕ Plant Protection Research Unit (PPRU) and Cornell research associate Stuart Krasnoff found peptides within C. heteropoda that give it antimicrobial and immunosuppressant properties. They also found that the fungus produces myriocin, a compound being investigated by other scientists for potent immunosuppressant activity that could be a key to preventing post-transplant organ rejection in humans. The peptides are made up of unusual amino acids, one of which causes the peptide to coil into a helical structure, according to Gibson. This, she added, may be useful for engineering molecules, because most drugs and pesticides are modeled after the chemical structures of natural products. Most Americans likely base their recollection of cicadas on their experience with Brood X of Magicicada septendecimthe. ThatÕs the species that emerges every 17 years, mostly in eastern parts of the nation, to pile atop one another on sidewalks, bump into windows and people, and collect in storm gutters as they emerge for their mating cycle. The fungus studied here, however, was taken from Cicadetta puer, an annual cicada that appears from October to February in eastern Australia. It had been placed in PPRUÕs Collection of Entomopathogenic Fungi in 1985. Krasnoff and Gibson came across this C. heteropoda isolate during a molecular screening program started six years ago thatÕs aimed at developing a diverse core collection for identifying novel chemistries. The recent findings have been described in the Journal of Natural Products. Read more about this research in the February 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/feb06/cicada0206.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200603A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - March 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200603B.txt ____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Thanks for your messages of support. I'm progressing very well, but impatient to be out of the house taking care of the plants and weeds. It takes a long time to get the flexibility required to tend to them. We had a few days of heavy rainfall, which were much needed. The temperature has been chilly <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Hollywood, CA Wants Low Chill Gravenstein Apple Walter Blackman New Subscriber, New South Wales, Australia Paul Butler New Subscriber, Mississippi Sandra Jones Subscription Problems With RFNO ChiuMoho@aol.com Re: Subscription Problems With RFNO Leo Manuel ChiuMoho@aol.com New Subscriber, Borneo East Malaysia Kenneth_Hall@oxy.com New Subscriber, Ft. Myers, Florida From Canada GrahBro2@aol.com New Subscriber, Micronesia And Thailand Simon Nicholas Habegger Please add me to your email list Alison Gotts <><><> Readers Write <><><> RE: Pain Medicine Joel vinikoor Lecuack Gerardo Garcia CRFG March '06 Newsletter Ventura/Santa Barbara Chapter Norman Beard RE: Sapodilla Tree ? Todd Abel eamusg@quixnet.net Re: HICCUPS JOHN FREEMAN Re: Mexican Help Cheryl Noble Paw Paw in hot climates? (Rare fruit news online) Nancy rarefruit@san.rr.com Tropical/Carribean fruits Irene Smith Re: Rare Fruit News Online - February 1, 2006 - 1 Ray Balcom Frost-Burned leaves Noatz Mango article Michael Zarky Leo Manuel <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Africanized Honey Bees Are Still on the Move ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber Hollywood Wants Low Chill Gravenstein Apple Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 22:03:02 -0800 From: Walter Blackman I am Walt Blackman, from Hollywood, CA, and grow one Fuyu tree, dwarf Sasuma Tangerine, Lemon Trees, Beverly Hils Apple Tree which has not fruited in the past year, Holiday Avocado and about to plant Anna Apple, Fugi Apple and, if it can bear fruit Gravenstein with our low chill area. All bare root purchased at Home Depot. Also have small fig tree that has not grown very much in past year or two. Have you heard of Gravenstein apples that are successful in our low chill area. I live under the Hollywood Sign. Walt ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, New South Wales, Australia Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 16:53:09 +1100 From: Paul Butler Hi My name is Paul Butler Ð I live on 30 acres of beautiful red volcanic soil at 526 Duncan Road, Dunoon in the subtropical paradise of the Northern Rivers area of New South Wales, Australia (post code 2480). This email address will be fine for any contact. I have only just recently moved to the area, and so far have only mangos, custard apples, Black Sapote, Jaboticaba, banana, Pawpaw/Papaya, Brazilian Cherry, Macadamia, Coffee and Guava. I am very keen to put in a heap of other fruit - too many to list, but particularly figs and Carambola. We are basically lifestyle refugees from big city Australia. We have put in a cash crop of Arabica coffee and are working towards a couple of other crops (probably custards and Carambola). I am struggling with the likely consequences for farming (and civilisation as we know it!) of Peak Oil. I am very much a beginner in this area and keen to read of others experiences - especially in growing some of the more tropical species such as Mangosteen in sub-tropical areas. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Mississippi Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 16:28:43 -0600 From: Sandra Jones Would you please send me a newsletter at taelyngrandma@yahoo.com. I currently have wild blackberry, plum, nuscadines,etc. I also have one fruit tree that I cannot name. Birds and animals will not eat the frui off this tree but will ear the leaves. Fruit is wild plum-colors green then red then purple. Somehave powder on it like blueberries. Numbing to tongue when touched. Do you have any ideal what this tree might be? We have found 2 growing on our land so far. May be more. Any help appreciated. Sandra from Mississippi ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Subscription Problems With RFNO Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 12:06:11 -0500 (EST) From: ChiuMoho@aol.com Hi Leo, I haven't received a newsletter in sometime and I hope the computer just lost me rather than you discontinuing the letter. I live in Moreno Valley, CA and have large yard where I am growing star fruit, jujube, guava, Japanese persimmon, meyer lemon, peach, nectarine, mission fig, Manila mango, cheimoya, sapote (seedling) loquat, 2 varieties of pears and dragon fruit (From seeds I brought home from China). Al Turnbull mailto:chiumoho@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Subscription Problems With RFNO Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 16:10:42 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: ChiuMoho@aol.com What probably happened is that your server refused email from mine so that I eventually removed your name. This happens a lot and it baffles me. Let me know as soon as you know that your newsletter is not coming, and I can give you a better reason why not. I'll send the most recent couple of issues in a separate email. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Borneo East Malaysia Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 12:59:26 +0400 From: Kenneth_Hall@oxy.com I am Kent Hall, in Labuan (Borneo) East Malaysia GrowingDurian, cempadah, mango, jack fruit, tarap, star fruit, rambutan, and avocado I live on the tropical island of Labuan in east Malaysia. I have an acre of land under cultivation and I am interested in growing some more fruit types. I would be interested in conversing with others of a similar interest. Kent ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Ft. Myers, Florida From Canada Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 11:06:25 -0500 (EST) From: GrahBro2@aol.com My name is Diane Brown. I reside in Ft. Myers Florida approximately half a year, the past seven years. I myself am Canadian. My husband and I purchased here but two years past he has passed away. He was the golfer and I the gardener. It is quite a different matter gardening half a year in one country and half the year in another. Canadian gardening I do understand. Of course, when I drive to Florida the garden has been put to rest until spring of the next year. There is naught to worry about. I have learned though, that I can not overwinter, in Canada, that is, indoors, some trees and plants I had long valued and cared for. Such as figs and persimons. I have lost them all. Family members who did earnestly make efforts to care for them, overcared. As with many tropical perenials. I am not home early enough to put up my Canna lilies and dahlias for an early start etc. So gardening has changed for me in Canada but I have adjusted Here in Ft. Myers I have as well lost young tropical fruit trees over the years. I think they need perhaps more time to be cared for as they become established. This year I did try once again a Black Sapote. I have some interesting plants in my garden in Florida. I am learning what will survive and in what location. It is interesting. I have someone care for the yard while up north but it is difficult to find anyone who does a good job. They say part of the problem is the large amount of rainfall in summer. My tropical fruit trees at this moment than are not great. My interest and love for the plants, is. This web site is amazing. I came across it accidently. I did recently join the Caloosa Rare Fruit Exchange in Ft. Myers, Florida. I hope to learn and perhaps be of some help in this community. Diane Brown dianevibrown@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Micronesia And Thailand Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 00:52:54 +0000 From: Simon Nicholas Habegger My name is Simon Habegger. I live in the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (Micronesia), but have a house in Thailand. The fruit trees that I am growing right now are the soursop, sapodilla, guava, breadfruit, and jackfruit. Trees that I am interested in planting include the jaboticaba, pomegranate, canistel, pejibaye, and sapote. Simon ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Please add me to your email list Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 22:21:54 +1000 From: Alison Gotts I am Alison Gotts, living at Cape Tribulation, 2 hours north of Cairns in Far North Queensland Australia Commercial crops I am growing are mangosteen and salak, but we have more than 150 species growing - lost count actually. There's always room for another one. We're trying to get all the Borneo collection from David Chandlee I am the secretary and the web manager for the Rare Fruits Council of Australia, and the secretary of the local branch of the RFCA at Mossman. We (Digby and me) run exotic fruit tastings every day on our farm for tourists, and a bed and breakfast, with two cottages. (You may have seen our farm and fruit tasting on the Discovery Channel - as a 'secret' of Australia! Part of our farm is included within the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area (the forested bit) Alison Cape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm, Cape Tribulation Exotic Fruit Tasting and B&B Phone 07 4098 0057 http://www.capetrib.com.au <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: RE: Pain Medicine Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 12:22:36 -0500 From: Joel Vinikoor Hi Leo, Take an anti-inflammatory medication such as Advil instead of the narcotic. It must be taken everyday for the maximum dose to get a good effect. Check with you doctor first to see if there is any contra-indications. Thanks, Joel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Lecuack Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 16:27:43 -0500 From: Gerardo Garcia Leo, all I can say about this politically correct idiot, JosŽ PŽrez, is that his e-mail handle, lecuack, speaks volumes. He can go to hell, but hey, perhaps that might offend him if he's an atheist. Better send him "al carajo", as we say here (ask Felipe about this if you don't speak much Spanish). Regards and get well soon, Gerardo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG March '06 Newsletter Ventura/Santa Barbara Chapter Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 23:25:02 -0800 From: Norman Beard CALIFORNIA RARE FRUIT GROWERS, INC. Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter March, 2006 ******MARCH MEETING When: March 18, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon Where: Conejo Valley Botanic Garden, 350 W. Gainsborough Rd., Thousand Oaks; (805) 494-7630; Website: http://conejogarden.org/ Directions: From 101 Fwy, exit at Lynn Road and head north. At The Oaks mall, turn right on W. Hillcrest Dr.; very soon turn left at McCloud Ave. and immediately turn left on Tuolumne. Turn right on Gainsborough Rd.; proceed to #350. For disabled members, for easier access there are a few parking stalls available at an alternative location: Proceed on McCloud Ave (do not turn left on Tuolomne), turn left at St. Charles Pl. and park at the Garden's nursery facility. Description: The Conejo Valley Botanic Garden has 33 acres. Much of it is preserved in a natural setting. The Garden has 16 sections. Our tour will focus on the Rare Fruit and Orchard sections and the Herb Garden. The Rare Fruit Orchard exhibits 130 trees including 40 varieties of temperate, subtropical and tropical edibles from 35 countries. There is also a "Kids Adventure Garden" and a section of worldwide water-conserving flora. A picnic area is available for us to enjoy some extra time there, so bring your own food and drink, and make an afternoon of it. Adjacent to the Garden is Conejo Community Park and the Conejo Open space. Remember, this is a great location for the whole family to enjoy. Very near by is the Park Headquarters of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Sapodilla Tree? Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2006 18:40:27 -0800 From: Todd Abel To: eamusg@quixnet.net Ed, I believe I have corresponded with you before. My Sapodilla is a grafted Alano, and purportedly self-fertile. I only had about 5 egg sized fruit last year, and they were tasty. This year I have at least 50. At first I thought that some pollination by hand helped the first year. This year I hand pollinated only one side of the tree, and both sides are pretty loaded with fruit. The tree is only about 6ft, and in a brick planter of 3ft by 7ft. I have read, and heard, that some are not self-fertile. There is a guy in San Diego doing some heavy duty research on which ones bear the most fruit, but not sure what happened there. As far as fertilizer, I only use organic. I have given this tree coffee grounds (from the coffee machine at work), and also some bone meal in the spring for flowering. Last year I did not give it any bone meal, and it flowered the most. The tree is in full sun, with reflective heat from the side walk. I donÕt pay too much attention to the tree, and thatÕs probably why itÕs doing so well. Todd Abel -----Original Message----- Subject: Sapodilla Tree ? From: eamusg@quixnet.net [mailto:eamusg@quixnet.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 10:25 AM To: table@socal.rr.com > Hi > > I have not written to you before. I write now with a question > about the sapodilla. Mine is about 20 or more ft tall (variety > Brown sugar) It has good fruit but not much. Tell me as much as > you can what you are doing with it. Mine gets no damage from > frosts & is growing straight up about 5 ft across & blooms > regularly each yr. I fertilize it reg. & water when needed I was > told it liked lime so I put it on too. I also have 2 seedlings > of one that has a 18 oz fruit. It is the biggest I have ever > seen. Is there anything I am not doing. Please let me know. > > I live in zone 9b in FL. > > Ed Musgrave ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: HICCUPS Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 09:21:46 -0800 (PST) From: JOHN FREEMAN FYI Many docs RX strong tranquilizers like tharazine which was invented for schizophrenics and makes you real groggy.Hope things work out for you well.I have been there myself! John [I had hiccups part of every day after leaving the hospital. Finally, in desperation, I went to see a doctor about a prescription - even though I had not had any hiccup problem on that day, and was even given the medicine you described. So, without taking any of the prescription, they stopped - I have not had any hiccups since! -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Mexican Help Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 18:56:39 -0800 (PST) From: Cheryl Noble Good grief. Talk about assumptions. You never said "cheap" Mexican labor. When It comes to agriculture they often are the best, most knowledgeable folks around. I work for a Mexican woman at my job with the County of San Diego. She is one of my better supervisors and gets paid more than me and I get a bunch of money comparitively for my profession. I have 3 degrees, so does she and two of hers are Masters, I have only one. People are people. Competent, non-competent, good, bad and a lot in between. I live in a little United Nations neighborhood. The only one that gives trouble is the Caucasian jerk next door. I wish he'd "white flight" away and leave me with my nice, decent "other" neighbors. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Paw Paw in hot climates? (Asimina triloba) Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 20:14:02 -0800 (PST) From: Nancy Hi Doug - I only have seedlings (so far) here in South Louisiana. However, I know that LSU (Louisiana State University) in Baton Rouge has maintained pawpaw orchards and done varieties of experimental grafting and growing for a number of years. I was able to try 8-9 varieties a couple of years ago, so I know they can be grown here. Baton Rouge is, I think, zone 9, but it may be zone 8. Unfortunately, I did hear that Hurricane Rita left the LSU fruit stations pretty well destroyed, including the pawpaw orchards. Maybe you need to add 98% humidity to your oppressive heat? Regards - Nancy (Lafayette, LA) ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Tropical/Carribean fruits Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 11:05:33 +0000 From: Irene Smith Dear Sirs, We are a flavour house based in Northamptonshire. UK. We are trying to locate commercial sources of the following fruits either in extract, juice/concentrate or oils. Volume is not an issue at this time as we are looking for samples for development work. Black Sapote, Canistel, Cherimoya, Feijoa, Guava, Jaboticaba, Paw Paw, White Sapote, Avocado, Custard Apple, Dragon Fruit, Soursop, Acai, Curuba, Sweet Granadilla, Lulo, Maracuya, Mini-Mango, Passion Fruit, Physalis, Pitaya, Prickly Pear, Tamarillo a.k.a. Tree Tomato. If you are able to help with any of the above please send largest FOC sample available. All products need to have a copy of the specification, health & safety data sheet, foood grade and gmo free certificates and if applicable a copy of the Kosher and Halal certificates. Thank you for your help and co-operation in this. Kind Regards Irene Smith Purchasing Dept. Belmay Ltd. Turnells Mill Lane, Denington Estate, Wellingborough. Northants. NN8 2RN UK http://www.belmay.com http://www.belmay.co.uk ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Need Low Cost Ways Of Lowering Soil Water pH Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 10:02:59 -0800 From: Ray Balcom Hi Leo, I'm here in Rainbow on well water and would like to hear about some low cost ways of lowering soil water pH and reducing leaf chlorosis. some of my lychees (all of my Emperor) and some citrus are affected. Thanks! Ray ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Frost-Burned Leaves - Better To Remove Them? Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 17:12:19 -0500 From: oatz Hi, do trees (mango in my case) recover better with dead leaves (all are) or without them? I am in Orlando. Thanks. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Mango article Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 18:50:45 -0800 From: Michael Zarky Hi Leo, The following appeared in the New York Times, at http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/12/opinion/12jaffrey.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=login BTW, last week at an Indian music concert, someone said that the opening up of the US market would eventually drive mango prices in India up to the point where average people will not find them affordable. I'm sure that is correct. Michael Zarky Op-Ed Contributor The Fruits of Diplomacy By MADHUR JAFFREY Published: March 12, 2006 WHATEVER anyone else might say, America's new nuclear and trade pact with India is a win-win deal. India gets nuclear fuel for its energy needs and America, doing far better in what might be called a stealth victory, finally gets mangoes. Not those pleasantly hued but lifeless rocks that pass as mangoes in most American grocery stores. Definitely not the fibrous, unyielding, supersized Florida creations that boast long shelf life and easy handling and shipping but little else. They might hint at possibilities but provide no satisfaction. No. What America will be getting is the King of Fruit, Indian masterpieces that are burnished like jewels, oozing sweet, complex flavors acquired after two millenniums of painstaking grafting. I can just see them arriving at the ports: hundreds of wide baskets lined with straw, the mangoes nestling in the center like eggs lolling in their nests. These mangoes will be seasonal. Americans will learn to wait for them, just as Indians do. They cannot be pushed to grow in hothouses. Indian mango trees, many of them hundreds of years old (and some reputed to be thousands of years old) need to breathe the same free, fresh air Indians breathe and live through India's three main seasons: summer, the monsoons and winter. Only then will they deign to bear fruit. They bear their pendulous fruit idiosyncratically, sometimes on one side, sometimes on another and some years, if they are so inclined, not at all. One generous tree in Chandigarh bore about 30,000 pounds of mangoes every year for 150 years until it was hit by lightning. Then it just fell over. The mango season begins in early May (but alas, the bureaucracy won't move fast enough for us to get them this year). If they come in sufficient quantities, Americans might well learn to associate them with late spring. I can just see a sentence that my grandchild, or yours, might write: "It was the time of cherry blossoms and Indian mangoes ...." Under this new arrangement, reasonably honest Indian-Americans will no longer have to turn into furtive smugglers to bring mangoes into the country. The one attempt I made was quite unsuccessful. A customs inspector, possibly noting my shifty eyes, asked me quite directly, "Are you carrying any mangoes?" Unable to lie, I had to reply in the affirmative. The mangoes were confiscated. This would have been bearable had I not been able to peep through a slight crack in the customs office door, a few moments later. The officers were cutting up the mangoes and eating them. That hurt. Mangoes seem to have originated in prehistory in the northeastern forests that lie near India's border with Myanmar. Buddha was known to have rested under their shady trees. Emperor Akbar (the third of the grand Moguls, ruling from 1556 to 1605), accelerated the process of planting and grafting by laying out a garden with 100,000 trees. The aim in India had always been to get sweet, melt-in-the-mouth, juicy mangoes with as little stringy fiber as possible. And that is what India has now. Whether you buy the sweet-and-sour pale-skinned langras of Varanasi or the intensely yellow, sweet dussehris of Lucknow or the satiny, heavenly Alphonsos of Ratnagiri near Bombay, what you will be getting are mangoes that man and nature have perfected together. When these same mangoes entered Florida in the 19th century, they were mainly dismissed as "yard" mangoes. Too soft for shipping, they were considered lacking in commercial qualities. So all the fiber that had been bred out of them over thousands of years was bred right back, giving America the hard, pale rocks we see in stores today. When you get your first Indian mango, perhaps an Alphonso, just hold it in your hand and admire its blushes of reds, yellows and greens. Breathe in its aroma, which will reach out to you through its skin. If it is hard, wrap it in newspaper and set it aside, unrefrigerated, until it yields very slightly to the touch. Mangoes are never "tree-ripened." The hand of man is needed to coax them to their peak. Wash them and refrigerate them. Then when you are ready, tie a napkin around your neck, peel, slice and eat. Madhur Jaffrey is an actress and the author of "From Curries to Kebabs: Recipes from the Indian Spice Trail" and the forthcoming memoir, "Climbing the Mango Trees." Michael Zarky 10963 Citrus Drive Moorpark, CA USA 93021 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Africanized Honey Bees Are Still on the Move Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 08:49:14 -0500 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ In 2005, Africanized honey bees showed up for the first time in Louisiana, Arkansas and Florida. An updated map showing the spread of Africanized honey bees by county and state has been posted on the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) website at www.ars.usda.gov/ahbmap/. The arrival in Florida was not contiguous with the bees' spread from the Southwest. It was most likely a result of human-assisted transport, by which trucks, ships, railroad cars or other types of transportation inadvertently bring Africanized honey bees into new areas. Usually, human-assisted transport finds are not considered part of Africanized honey bees' spread. But because they have been found in 14 counties, the state of Florida now considers Africanized honey bees to be established there. The ARS Carl Hayden Bee Research Center in Tucson, Ariz., is responsible for official identifications of Africanized honey bees, especially when the bees are found in new states. Additional information about ARS research on Africanized honey bees can be accessed at http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/. Among ARS' recent research accomplishments related to the bees is new guidance for beekeepers on the best time to requeen hives to reverse Africanization of honey bee colonies. Queens of known genetics, from reputable breeders, should be introduced into hives in the fall to give them the best chance of being accepted by the bee colony. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200603B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - April 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200604A.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> It's been surprisingly wet this passing month of March, and below average in temperature. We'll miss it when it gets hotter and drier - assuming that it will do so. Quite a few new subscribers, and many of them have questions that you can help answer. If you live in Florida, you may know local places where Plantains and Passion Fruit plants can be had. Maybe California citrus buffs may know sources for Sudachi and Kabosu plant material.... <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Impressive Collection T. F. Robinson New Subscriber, LA County, May Want Star Fruit Niklas Hallberg New Subscriber - Sylmar, CA - Interested In Jackfruit Phucan Le How To Protect Rare Fruit Trees From 30¼ Temperatures? Bell Shenoi New Subscriber, Alabama, Wants To Try Rare Fruit Llightrain1@aol.com New Subscriber, Looking For Sudachi & Kabosu Citrus Marc Harris New Subscriber, Florida, Wants Plantain & Passionfruit Plants Masih-Das, Savitri <><><> Readers Write <><><> Pitaya - How To Graft? Tom Slasinski How To Succeed With Mango Trees In Desert Climates EAE Gravenstein apple? Try 'Hawaii' Michael McCright walt2741@adelphia.net Paw Paw in hot climates? Carlos DRAGON FRUIT - Any San Diego County Commercial Growers? Joanne Gram Only a few weeks left to buy tickets... Encinitas Garden Festival N Sterman Looking For 'Maha Chanook' Mango - Pitaya Support Richard Sar Looking For Kona Sharwil Avocado McCright, Michael CWO How To Graft Pitayas? Tom Slasinski <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Fwd: Cyclone Larry :..: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Alan Zappala <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: Scott D. Russell None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Impressive Collection Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:02:47 +1000 From: T. F. Robinson Hi My name is Tony and I live on QueenslandÕs sunny Gold Coast (28¡S) in Australia where I grow many tropical fruitsÉ grumichamas, jaboticabas, black sapote, white sapote, wampee, camito, mango, lakoocha, rollinia, jackfruit, papaya, guavas and coconuts. Even though at my latitude (28¡S), itÕs considered marginal for some tropical fruits, no frost occurs here and the average minimum for winter is 10C or 50F with a high of 20C or 68F. We have long hot summers that make up for the short cool winter. I have developed a reliable way to germinate coconuts, which I gather from 15+ year old trees from around the area. On the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia which is a marginal area at 28¡S I place each nut in a pot with some potting mix, chicken manure and water well. The chicken manure creates bottom heat as it decomposes aiding germination. During the cooler months from May to September, place a plastic bag over the top tying it around the pot to create a mini hothouse. During the warmer months from October to April, I germinate coconuts directly in pots as well as in a warm sandy patch, if I have a plentiful supply of nuts. Keeping the coconuts well watered during the germination period is very important. Coconut Palms are heavy users of potassium and chlorine so fertilizing with potassium chloride (KCL) is beneficial to strong healthy growth. Even though everyone says, it canÕt be done this far south IÕm determined to get a breadfruit to grow. My current experiment is with a ÔSamoan GoldÕ variety that I had sent down from Tropical North Queensland (18¡S). I pamper it with the best of everything É position, fertilizer, water so I hope it will prove the doubters wrong. Each year I make a lot of jam from my jaboticaba and grumichama trees, which thrive in this climate. My black sapote also is a prolific bearer É I whip the pulp with a little cream mmmm yummy! Ê My email address is crusoe@bigpond.net.au Regards Tony Robinson ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, LA County, May Want Star Fruit Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 20:08:33 -0800 From: Niklas Hallberg Hello I have been growing rare fruit for years and now that I am "retired" I plan to get back into this seriously. My name - Suzanne Kyro I live in Altadena, California (Los Angeles County) I grow the following (those with * have borne fruit): Pitahaya Babaco* Banana* Guava (Red, White and Fejoa*) Papaya* Kei Apple* Fig (Black* and Green*) Peach (Early Elberta*, Elberta - new this year) Lingonberry and Cranberry (new this year) Persimmon* Strawberry (various varieties)* Grape (Red Flame)* Lemon (Meyer* and Pink*) Tangerine (three kinds*) Kaffir Lime Grapefruit (Oro Blanco) Apple (Granny Smith*, Red unknown variety*, sweet green variety from Israel*) Avocado (Haas* and Fuerte) Jujube* Sweet Kumquat* Cape Gooseberry (aka Poha)* Pepino Dulce* Nero Aronia (new this year) Luma Apiculata (new this year) Raspberry (Gold)* Kiwi Passion Fruit (new this year) Blueberry (various varieties)* Morello Cherry (new this year) Sweet Cherry (can't remember variety - new this year) Alpine Strawberry (white and red)* Allspice Coffee* Caper* Loquat* Orange (Blood Orange)* I am sure I have forgotten a few plants. but I think you get the picture. I am sure there are a few more I would like to get - probably a Star Fruit. I am interested in becoming adept at proper fertilization, and pest/disease management and would be interested in discussing these problems with others. Thank you for your newsletter. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Sylmar, CA - Interested In Jackfruit Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 15:42:13 -0800 From: Phucan Le Hi My name Phucan Le. I recently move to Sylmar CA, very close to Magic Mountain. I had one Jujube, one Longan, two Mandarine and one magnolia. I had one Jackfruit previously but it die due to the rain. I would love to have a jackfruit tree in my backyard so I tried so hard to find a tree at least can yield fruit within 3-4 years. I had found some nursery at Los Angeles and Santa Ana selling Jackfruit but both of them growth from Seeding with according to them may be take about 18-20 years to yield fruit in California? I am a fan of Jackfruit and I would love to see its growth in California especially in my area or closed to the beach such as Ventura County where my mom lived. Is there any way for me to find a growth jackfruit which can bear fruit in a short time? Do you know any of those jackfruit tree which bearing fruit in California? What weather condition do they have in their area? Do you think I can growth one? Where could I buy fertilizer for those jackfruit tree? I had looked at the internet and according to them Jackfruit fertilizer should be 6-6-6 and I can not find it at home depot or the nursery near my location? I only found 5-5-5 would it be Okay? Thanks you very much for your time and I hope to hearing from you soon. I am enjoy very much for any article related to those rare fruit? Phucan Le ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Protect Rare Fruit Trees From 30¼ Temperatures? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 16:45:28 -0500 From: Bell Shenoi Let me introduce myself as per your suggestion. My name is BELL SHENOI, I have moved recently from Ohio to Brandon, Florida which is about 15 miles east of Tampa. I am very much interested in growing mango trees (Kent and Keitt only) Lychee plants, Cherimoyna and Sapota trees. Do you know of any nurseries within 100 miles from Brandon which have these plants for sale? If so please send me their name, address and phone number what type of soil treatment, pH value desirable, watering and spraying schedules are suggested for these trees particularly for the mango trees? Note that the temperatures drop to 30 degrees at night for some weeks of winter in this region. I would appreciate any information that you can send, in response to the above enquiry. Thanks a lot. Bell Shenoi ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Alabama, Wants To Try Rare Fruit Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 14:22:37 -0500 (EST) From: Llightrain1@aol.com I am Lorrain Worthington, in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. We are considered zone 7 or 8 right on the line. At the moment I have started with chickens and goats, for milk, butter, eggs and meat. My six year old has her pumpkins, gourds, and gooseberries to begin this year. I have tomatillos. My interests is in planting rare fruit and vegtables that are preannual. Dwarf, shrub, underground or above. We do get a couple of days of frost some plants could be covered or brought in. I would like to try bananas, lemons, and oranges, or a rare replacement. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Looking For Sudachi & Kabosu Citrus Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2006 16:18:49 -0800 (PST) From: Marc Harris Hi, My name is Marc Harris and I live in Rancho Palos Verdes in Southern California. I am currently growing the following: Containers- Dwarf Yuzu Dwarf Sanguinelli Blood Orange Dwarf Kaffir Lime Dwarf Palestine Sweet Lime Dwarf Bearss Lime Dwarf Moro Blood Orange Dwarf Cara Cara Navel Orange Ultra Dwarf Minneola Tangelo Wekiwa Tangelo Dwarf Australian Finger Lime Dwarf Yosemite Gold Mandarin Dwarf Tarocco Blood Orange Dwarf Owari Satsuma Mandarin Dwarf Rangpur lime In Ground - Oro Blanco Grapefruit Navel Orange Eureka Lemon Dwarf Mexican Lime Semi Dwarf Nectarine I want a Dwarf Sudachi Dwarf Kabosu Where, in California, can I get these trees? UCR will be releasing budwood in June, so I think I will get the sudachi. Leo: I am not familiar with Dwarf Sudachi and Dwarf Kabosu. Are they citrus? Marc: Yes they are. Very popular in Japan like Yuzu, but just now getting more popular in the finer restaurants here in LA, SF and NY. Citrus Sudachi is the proper name and Citrus Schearocarpa is Kabosu. Both in the collection at UCR. Budwood on the Sudachi should be released in June. Not so sure about the Kabosu. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, Wants Plantain & Passionfruit Plants Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 13:00:54 -0500 From: Masih-Das, Savitri Hi Leo: I came across your website by a stroke of pure luck:) My name is Savi Masih-Das (female) and I live in Central Florida, ~15 minutes west of Orlando. I currently have growing sugarcane, bananas (don't know the variety) but the finger size, sugarcane, guava, and jamun. My seedling mango is fruiting for the first time in 3 years. I just bought a seedling soursop this weekend. I'm looking for a plaintain plant and a passionfruit vine. Can you help? Savi <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Pitaya - How To Graft? Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:24:38 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Slasinski Leo A year or so ago, I purchased the Paul Thomson book and some cuttings from you to plant on my farm here in the state of Sao Paulo in Brazil. All is going well and needless to say there are many farmers growing Pitaya in this country. Since I can not find Paul's book, can you provide me with some advise on grafting techniques? I look forward to your reply and kindly put me on your news letter list. Thank you in advance. Kind regards, Tom Slasinski PS We are growing organic pitaya and have white, yellow, and red along with a baby variety, one that peels like a banana. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Succeed With Mango Trees In Desert Climates Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:31:59 +0400 From: EAE Dear Sir, We have a project consisting of growing Mango trees in the United Arab Emirates. I want to ask about any procedure or requirements needed to succeed in this project (around 15000 trees). I have these questions: - Do we need to provide the trees with mist? - The temperature here reaches 45 degrees Celsius (113 ¼ F.) in summer, so if you can provide me with any document that discusses about Mango trees and humidity and misting. Thank you Robert Aaraj Product Manager EAE ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Gravenstein apple? Try 'Hawaii' Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 07:32:34 -0800 From: Michael McCright To: walt2741@adelphia.net Hi Walter, I do not have experience growing the Gravenstein apple in California. But I have tasted the Hawaii variety. It is a Gravenstein cross with a low chill apple, Fuji I think. Fuji needs about 400 hours and Gravenstein is a high chill apple 800-900 as I recall. You might want the get a Hawaii and grow it out. If it acts goofy with leaves late into winter and very late to break bud in spring, it probably needs more chill than you have. The Hawaii has good flavor and is one of my favorites. I like it better than Gravenstein. You can find it at the specialty nurseries. Mike McCright Escondido, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Paw Paw in hot climates? Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 05:26:39 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Hi Nancy and all I guess the solution could be graft them into Florida paw paw species. Until I know there are 6 Asiminas natives of Florida! Best Regards Carlos ------------------------------------------------ Subject: DRAGON FRUIT - San Diego Commercial Growers? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 11:27:52 -0800 From: Joanne Gram Dear "Rare Fruit Info Department," I am a Huntington Docent and I am the co-editor of the Jumping Cholla Desert Garden Newsletter to be found on-line atÊ http://www.huntington.org/botanical In order to do a follow-up article on Dragon Fruit, I would like to come toÊ San Diego County to see the greenhouses where Hylocereus is being commercially grown. Do you have the addresses or phone numbers of people that I can contact about this? Sincerely, Joanne Gram ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Few weeks left to buy tickets... Encinitas Garden Festival Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:33:29 -0800 From: N Sterman There are only a couple of weeks left to purchase tickets for the April 8, 2006 Encinitas Garden Festival.ÊÊ Festival Features: NearlyÊ30 gardens in Leucadia - all izes, shapes and styles (ticket required) AÊGardeners' Marketplace in Cottonwood Creek Park (free admission) with 30+ booths (see preliminary vendor list below) Dance and music all day long in the Gardeners' MarketplaceÊ The Patricia Rincon Dance Collective performing in the park and in 7Ê gardens. ÊÊ An auction of color flower bowls, products, and services from all types of businesses Double decker buses to transport tour participants from the Cottonwood Creek Park to the tour neighborhoods Tickets are selling quickly so don't put it off.Ê Tickets for those 11 and older are now $20, ages 6 to 10 are $7.Ê Younger kids are free. Purchase tickets at: ÊThe Encinitas Chamber of Commerce, 138 Encinitas Blvd, Encinitas, 760-753-6041 http://www.encinitaschamber.com - tickets also offered by phone at this location Downtown Encinitas Mainstreet Association, 818 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760-943-1950 Sunshine Gardens,Ê155ÊQuail Gardens Dr., Encinitas,Ê760-436-3244 Barrels and Branches 1452 Santa Fe Drive, Encinitas, (760) 753-2852 Anderson's La Costa Nursery, 400 La Costa Ave, Encinitas, CA Cedros Gardens, 330 S. Cedros Ave. Solana Beach, CA GrangettoÕs Farm and Garden Supply, 203 South Rancho Santa Fe Road, Encinitas CA 92024 Walter Anderson Nursery, 3642 Enterprise Street, San Diego, CA 92110 Last year tickets sold out, so purchase yours today!!! From 11:30 to 2 pm busses loop into downtown Leucadia where there are scores of wonderful restaurants and shops to explore. Parking is tight so please carpool - or take the Coaster.Ê The Encinitas Coaster Station is a block from Cottonwood Creek Park which is the starting point for the day.ÊÊ Don't want to carry your purchases?Ê No problem.Ê Check them in the holding area before you start your tour. We hope to see you on April 8!ÊÊ For more Information visit http://www.EncinitasGardenFestival.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For 'Maha Chanook' Mango - Pitaya Support Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 14:28:10 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Sar Hi Leo, How are you doing? I read that you had some surgery but doing better now, that's great. I was going through some of the old newsletter and you mentioned you had just recently grafted a 'Maha Chanook' mango onto your tree. Do you know where I could buy a grafted plant of this variety or at the least possibly get some budwood? I am trying out a new support system for my dragonfruits. Last year we had chopped down two old palm trees. I kept the trunk and began planting some dragonfruits on them. I will be using it like the Vietnamese trellis pictures I've seen. Its going to be interesting to see how it does. Well thanks for the help, Richard ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Kona Sharwil Avocado Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 09:49:10 -0800 From: McCright, Michael CWO Hi Leo, do you know where I could get some bud wood of the Kona Sharwil avocado? Mike McCright ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Graft Pitayas? Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:24:38 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Slasinski Leo A year or so ago, I purchased the Paul Thomson book and some cuttings from you to plant on my farm here in the state of Sao Paulo in Brazil. All is going well and needless to say there are many farmers growing Pitaya in this country. Since I can not find Paul's book, can you provide me with some advise on grafting techniques? I look forward to your reply and kindly put me on your news letter list. Thank you in advance. Kind regards, Tom Slasinski PS We are growing organic pitaya and have white, yellow, and red along with a baby variety, one that peels like a banana. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Fw: Cyclone Larry :..: Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 07:22:58 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: Alan Zappala I remember that you were badly hit by Wilma. My Australian friends in Queensland have just been devastated by Larry. I have a lot of fruit growers friends over there. I have a feeling that there will be more bad storms coming. And these storms are caused by greedy humans. Take precautions, especially if you live near the coast. Sainarong ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Zappala To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 3:39 AM Subject: Cyclone Larry :..: : Dear Sainarong, : : We're alive, that's the main thing after going through a : Category 5 cyclone like Larry. The eye was only about 15km : from us to the south. Houses and sheds ok, trees very bad, : especially the durian. We were just about 15% into harvest : with a good crop but this is horticulture. I had a meeting : with our PM last week asking how can we replace 20 year old : trees? : : The sugar and bananas in our region will be back in a year : but the trees will take at least a decade, depending what is : left to graft up new stock. : : We have generators, water back on but it looks like a war : zone, about the size of half of Tasmania. Best news was that : no-one was killed. The evacuation plan worked well with all : beachfront residents moved the afternoon before. It was : moving at about 25km per hour and blew from about 4.00am : till 11.00am. : : Talk to you soon, thanks again for your thoughts, : : The Zappala's. <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: Scott D. Russell Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200604A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - April 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200604B.txt ____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> New Subscriber - Anchorage, Alaska - What Can I Grow? Sarah <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Papaya - Good For Constipation Or Digestion Robert Cadwalader Re: Jackfruit In Nurseries Nancy B. CRFG April '06 Newsletter Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter Norman Beard Paw Paw in Florida Permacltur@aol.com Fw: History Channel Documentary David Silverstein My Jackfruit In Visalia, California Bananaizme@aol.com Re: Looking For Nurseries In Florida Bananaizme@aol.com To: Bell Shenoi Looking For Avocado Source: Spinks, Hazzard, Duke "Joel A. Johnson" April Newsletter North County Chapter CRFG Secetary Nickerson <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Anchorage, Alaska - What Can I Grow? From: Sarah Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 15:50:20 -0800 My name is Sarah Schwicht, and I live in Anchorage, Alaska. My husband and I do not currently have any fruit trees, bu interested in trying to grow apples and learning about other fruits that can grow in cold climates. Thanks, Sarah <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Re: Interested In Jackfruit Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:23:52 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Phucan Le I have a Vietnamese friend in San Diego who usually sells Jackfruit trees at his nursery in the Linda Vista subdivision. He works during the week but evenings and weekends he can be reached at (858) 277-8167 [maybe it's (619) 277-8167]. It's worth the drive, if he has what you want. Take care, Leo Manuel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Papaya - Good For Constipation Or Digestion From: Robert Cadwalader Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2006 03:32:30 -0600 I am Robert Cadwalader in Charleston, Il I'm interested in getting information on papaya for constipation and digestion Robert Cadwalader ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit From: Nancy B. Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 01:12:53 -0500 Dear Phucan; I buy Jackfruit from the Zone Ten Nursery when I go down south to Miami http://www.zoneten.com/fruit.htm Zone Ten doesn't ship, but they might be able to help you to find another nursery that ships. They are the most successful at growing the tree. Regards, Nancy ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG April '06 Newsletter Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter From: Norman Beard Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 22:50:04 -0700 To: Tommye Pamela Anderson CALIFORNIA RARE FRUIT GROWERS, INC. Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter April, 2006 ******APRIL MEETING When: April 22, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon Where: Brokaw Nursery, 1419 Lirio Ave., Saticoy; Ph: (805) 647-2262 Directions: From 101 Freeway, exit onto the Santa Paula Freeway (CA-126). Exit CA-126 at S. Wells Road (CA-118) to Saticoy. Turn Right onto Wells., go 0.7 miles. Turn Right onto Nardo St., go 0.2 miles; it ends at a left turn (Lirio Ave.). Proceed to 1419 Lirio Ave. Host: Larry Rose, sales manager Description: Brokaw specializes in citrus, avocado, and cherimoya. We will be touring the avocado orchard; a discussion of avocado cultivars, management, and propagation will be a part of the tour. There will also be demos on grafting subtropicals such as citrus and avocados. ******SAVE the DATE: May Meeting is on May 20th at Whitney Ranch, 401 Lambert Rd., Carpinteria where we'll tour Blueberries, Meyer Lemons, & more. ******LOCAL OFFICERS Chapter Co-Chair: Norman Beard, (805) 968-0989, beardtropics@earthlink.net Chapter Co-Chair: Jerry Sortomme, (805) 644-2777, jerrysortomme@hotmail.com Website: http://crfg.org For Membership in California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc, send $30 to CRFG, Inc., Fullerton Arboretum-CSUF, PO Box 6850, Fullerton, CA 92834-6850 AND $10 (for Local Dues) to Roland Messori, 355 Sierra Vista Rd., Santa Barbara, CA 93108 (Note: Members of the Parent CRFG organization receive the outstanding "Fruit Gardener".) ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Paw Paw in Florida From: Permacltur@aol.com Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 08:31:08 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo: Sorry to have been quietly lurking for so long. I've been very busy with our online course. I have had success grafting paw paw (Asimina triloba) to dwarf paw paw (A. parviflora), which is abundant here in North Central Florida, at least at Barking Frogs Permaculture Center. I have had a medium to low rate of grafting success, which I solve by cutting A. parviflora to the ground and grafting paw paw to the best of the coppice sprouts that develop. So usually I get at least one good graft per clump. I've had success with both whip and tongue and cleft grafts. This year I took out some of the extra successful grafts from individual clumps, leaving just one good graft. I used the material I took out for interstem, figuring that I may have a higher success rate grafting A. parviflora to other A. parviflora. It is too early to tell if my success rate will be better. I've also purchased some seedling A. triloba to plant for cross pollination, as I have had success with only two clones to date. I have had trouble finding a source of good scionwood for A. triloba. I bought some from a nursery, but the mailed me very small material, like thick wires, and I had very little success (one take which I guard jealously). Almost all my other successful grafts are from a batch of wood, also on the small side, that was collected from promising wild trees by a NAFEX member. There were three selections, but mainly just one selection took. Either it is more compatible than the others with our strain of A parviflora, or it was collected later, stored better, or some such. I am strongly interested in getting more scion wood of named varieties, most especially from the Gulf coast region. Dan Hemenway Barking Frogs Permaculture Center The protocol for our Annual Permaculture Design Course Online is at http://barkingfrogspc.tripod.com/frames.html soon to be http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org Our 11th annual Permaculture Design Course Online begins Nov. 5, 2006. We also accept late registrations to our online course cycle now underway. A list by topic of all Yankee Permaculture titles also may be found at http://csf.colorado.edu/perma/ypc_catalog.html ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fw: History Channel Documentary From: David Silverstein Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:53:51 -0700 OK, CRFG'ers, it's time to brag about what we grow. I would guess that macadamias would count as rare (although I would think the same about chestnuts that are American grown) but what about some other more unusual nuts? Bill Grimes > From: "Philip Kruener" > To: > Subject: History Channel Documentary > Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 11:10:33 -0800 > > I am the producer of a History Channel documentary onâ Nutsâ > to be featured in their long-running series MODERN MARVELS. > While a large portion of the show will be devoted to more > traditional nuts, walnuts, chestnuts etc. We would like to do a > segment on exotic and rare nuts. We are looking for growers > and/or experts in this field. Any help would be greatly > appreciated. > > Sincerely, > > Philip Kruener > Producer > 310-293-9170 > maosung@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Jackfruit In Visalia, California From: Bananaizme@aol.com Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 10:11:02 -0400 (EDT) Dear Phucan I have 2 seedling jakfruits planted in the same hole together at my place in Visalia. I am learning how to grow and care for them by trial and error. The first winter they were around 3 feet high. I did not protect them enough and they froze back almost to ground level. Once the weather turned warm again they went into a nice growth spurt. They reached 3 feet again by the end of the 2nd summer. This will be the 3rd season in the ground for them and they are starting out in very good shape so I am hoping for an explosion of growth once the days and nights stay consistantly warm. I think you might have better luck growing them in Sylmar as opposed to Ventura because you get more heat in Sylmar. Jaks like very hot weather. I have not heard that it takes 18 to 20 years to get fruit from seedlings. I think tree size would determine this more than age. I have talked to Floridians who have got fruit from seedlings in around 5 years. As far as fertilizer goes I use Peters 20-20-20 on my Jaks and mangoes and everything else for that matter with good results. You can purchase it from Home Depot or Lowes. Follow the label directions. Jaks seem to be heavy feeders. If I remember right I think Paul Fisher might have bearing Jakfruit trees at his place. I have seen pics of a bearing Jakfruit in San Diego Co somewhere. It is possible but ou have to baby the trees until they get some size. It might be in your interest to contact Paul Fisher and ask him about his trees. I wish you the best of luck in your growing efforts. William Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Looking For Nurseries In Florida From: Bananaizme@aol.com Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 10:16:14 -0400 (EDT) To: Bell Shenoi Bell, why don't you contact Jenes Tropicals. I believe her nursery is located in Tampa if I'm not mistaken. From what I remember she has a nice selection of grafted trees. I tried to get you the phone number but the website does not seem to be working. Maybe call information? Good luck to you. William Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Avocado Source: Spinks, Hazzard, Duke From: "Joel A. Johnson" Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 17:06:08 -0700 Hi Leo, I've been searching for several avocado varieties, and have exhausted my usual resources. I thought perhaps someone among your readers might be growing, could suggest a nursery, or otherwise provide a lead on the following avocado varieties: Spinks Hazzard Duke Thank you! Joel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: April Newsletter North County Chapter CRFG Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:47:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Secetary Nickerson The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers March Meeting-The business meeting was limited to the adoption of the proposed Chapter By-Laws by unanimous vote of the attending members. The meeting was kept short to allow time for Cherimoya tasting and Dr. NurmiÕs talk on ÒInsect Pollination of CherimoyasÓ Dr. Nurmi who grows Cherimoyas in Fallbrook has spent the last few years studying how insects pollinate Cherimoyas. He has run several experiments, collected pollinating species and carried on extensive correspondence with other scientists and growers. He provided a 3 page handout to the members. The handout describes the various insects and discusses the detailed mechanics of propagation. It also lists several fine references including some websites. In summary, the pollinating species are; Sap Beetles, Rove Beetles and Pirate Bugs. Ants do not pollinate Cherimoyas. If you want and canÕt get a copy of the paper, send me (Secretary) a SASE and I will mail you a copy. The Cherimoya tasting was enjoyed by all. Jeff Lucas as usual deserves special mention for bringing so many to share. APRIL Meeting- We will meet April 21 at 7 PM in Room T402, bldg T400. Carl Hansen will speak on ÒEthno-BotanyÓ which studies the relation between plants and people. He will give a brief history of the field which includes the use of archeological evidence. He will also discuss new lab experiments, which he ran at the University of Hawaii, for the Dept. of Homeland Security, involving plants potentially useful in controlling the bacteria used in biological warfare. Harry Nickerson CRFG San Diego North County Chapter 1815 Yettford Rd. Vista CA 92083 2006 Calendar Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Check calendar for current meeting details. April 21 7PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Ethno Botany-- Carl Hansen May 19 7PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Vince Lazaneo-- Topic TBD May 20 10 AM Cal. Tropical Fruit Tree Nursery Tour-Must car pool Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net CRFGÕs website: http://www.crfg.org; NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200604B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - May 1, 2006 - AKA RFN2006050A.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> An Interpretation Of The Use Of IMO In Natural Farming Systems In Announcements And Web Pages To Consider - Since this issue of RFNO is very short, I decided to include this article by Professor Graham Reinders of the Phillipines. IMO seems to be similar to "Soil Soup" which you may have read about. I found it interesting and would be interested in your feedback about it, if you read it. There have been very few letters from you, which I expect is for good reasons. I always wonder if RFNO will continue for much longer. It depends on you. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Florida Otto Tonti <><><> Readers Write <><><> Re: Availability of Avocado: Duke, Spinks, Hazzard Bananaizme@aol.com Looking For Fruit For My Congestion Problems Ed Brandon Vista Garden Village May 28 North County San Diego Chapter To: harnick@sbcglobal.net <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Looking for Toilet Paper Rolls (empty of course!) Ariel Good News for seed importers in the USA! Oscar J Passiflora identification question Tom Waters GM Papaya kahiwal@cs.com <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Florida Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:37:28 -0400 From: Otto Tonti Dear Leo, My name is Otto Tonti and I live in Fort Myers, Florida. My e-mail address is otonti2@earthlink.net. Our house sits on a small city lot of seventy-five by a hundred and fifty feet deep, and from the time I moved here thirty-five years ago, my goal was to have something fresh to pick and eat any time of the year. There are so many things one can grow here that make this a realistic goal even if one does not devote all their spare time to it. The first publication I read about growing fruit in Florida was a small pamphlet of about a hundred and eighty pages called Florida Fruit by Lewis Maxwell. This used to be sold in all the tourist traps as well as some nurseries and book stores. Looking back, I would have to say that this booklet contains more useful information, page for page, than anything I have read since. The first tree I planted was a Brewster Litchi. The soil in this part of Florida is almost all sand and is somewhat high in pH. I planted that Litchi in a mixture of sewage sludge, sand and peat moss, and trenched it every year with additional sludge until it was about fifteen feet tall. I also mulched heavily using all the leaves I could find as well as grass clippings from my yard and some of my neighbors. The tree is now about thirty-five feet tall and is doing well although it is an erratic bearer. I mulch everything heavily with wood chips in order to keep the weeds manageable and to conserve water. FloridaÕs springtime is normally drought time with no rain for two months sometimes or even longer. Fruit we are now growing include a Valencia and a Parson Brown orange, a Mineola tangelo which we use for juice, a navel orange, a Key lime tree, a dwarf Marsh white grapefruit, a pink Marsh, two kinds of bananas, a Cavendish and a plaintain which was a gift from a Cuban friend. Also an Atemoya (DonÕt remember the variety except that itÕs not Page) which provides fruit for two months, an Acerola Barbados cherry) a Butia capitata or Sugar Palm, a Jaboticaba with very dark purple fruit, a Grumichama which has not fruited so far, Monsteras, Pineapples, a Brown Turkey fig, a Surinam cherry, a Floridagrand peach which makes small, white-fleshed delicious fruit, a couple of Carissa grandifloras, and a Kohala longan. We also keep a small patch of red sugar cane for younger visitors. Notable failures include a Pitomba, which was an extremely reluctant bearer but whose fruit was very good and definitely worth growing. I gave up on it after fifteen years. It had a massive root system and looked very healthy, so this failure remains a mystery to me. I also managed to kill two Black Sapote trees and three Miracle Fruit trees. IÕm not sure if the two passionfruit vines I put in should be classified as failures or whether disasters would be a better word. They took over everything on the west side of the house, and that includes half the house, all the citrus trees on that side and even up into the Litchi. After I ripped the vines down, a neighbor who is from Jamaica commented to me that they have a saying there, ÒNothing stands in the way of a passionfruit vineÓ. I look forward to receiving your newsletter. Thank you Otto Tonti <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Re: Availability of Avocado: Duke, Spinks, Hazzard Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:39:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Bananaizme@aol.com Joel, the Duke variety has just recently been grafted into the collection at South Coast. I think it might be alittle early to take wood from it though. You would have to check with Julie Frink about that. It came from a large tree growing in the front yard of my wifes' uncles' place. Unfortunately his tree was too close to the house and had to be removed. Thanks to Julies expert grafting skills we were able to save some wood from the tree. I have two very young Dukes that I grafted but it will be a couple years before their large enough to take wood from. I don't have any idea where to get wood from Spinks or Hazzard but like you would like to try them if given a chance. Also would like to try Nimlioh. If I happen to come across a source I'll bring it to your attention. William Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Fruit For My Congestion Problems Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:41:21 -0400 From: Ed Brandon Hi Leo I am looking for any fruit that would help in congestion problems I already grow about 100 rare fruits. I hope some of your people would know which would help me. Ed Brandon FL eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Vista Garden Village May 28 Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 03:34:04 +0000 From: North County San Diego Chapter To: harnick@sbcglobal.net Harry, Here is the email I would like to have sent out: We are looking for volunteers to help us field a booth at the Vista Garden Village on Sunday, May 28th. It will be held at the Lincoln Middle School Ball Field in Vista from 10am to 4pm. We also need fruit and other CRFG items for our display. This is another chance to get our name out to the public. We will be passing out the informational flyer about the San Diego chapters to promote our group. Please call Ben Pierce at (760) 744-4716 if you would like to volunteer. For more information about the festival check out the website at www.gardenvillage.org or call Ben. Thanks Harry! <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> Subject: An Interpretation Of The Use Of IMO In Natural Farming Systems Date: April 30, 2006 From: Leo Manuel An Interpretation Of The Use Of IMO (Indigenous Micro-Organisms) In Natural Farming Systems (NFS) By Professor Graham Reinders The Philippine Department of Agriculture is presently furthering the principle of NFS (Natural Farming Systems). I first came upon this system written up by the Korean Natural Farming Systems, (KNFA), to promote a sustainable system for Pest and Disease Control by minimizing Chemical inputs for farming in Korea. The technique stresses the use of micro-organisms for enhancing soil health and plant growth. I then found an article by Professor Teruo Higa of Japan who defined and discussed soil-organisms, calling them (EM) Effective micro-organisms. The (NFS) Natural Farming Systems calls them: IMO's IMO's Professor Higa's research has shown that culturing and adding EM's and other beneficial organisms to soil does indeed increase the soils quality, which in turn increases the soil's health and productivity. Unfortunately using these micro-organisms can not fix bad or inefficient farming methods. Brews of EM's, containing, among others, Lactic Acid, Bacteria, Yeasts, photosynthetic bacteria, and Actinomycetes, are all compatible and can be kept in liquid form. Each micro-organism is specialized and only multiplies in surroundings which are beneficial to it. This means that micro-organisms cultured and bred at another place may not like the places you put them and will not always do their job. This fact has led to the NFS's approach of culturing (IMO). Indigenous Micro-organism (which means that the IMO comes from the place that they are going to be used) This is done by breeding an IMO cultured from the soil of the very farms in which it is going to be used. Bad Microbes Crops fail, yields diminish, and pests attack crops when bad pathogens replace good microbes in the soil. The soil becomes unhealthy because conditions for the bad microbes become better than the conditions for the good microbes. This change can take place very rapidly when we Mono-culture without crop-rotation, and if we keep applying Chemical Fertilizers without knowing what has been used up. Very soon we have a build up of toxic Nutrient Salts in the soil. In addition all pesticides make soil unhealthy. Soil Quality Is the main factor for how well plants will grow. Effective Micro-organisms (EM) and/or Indigenous Micro-organisms (IMO) seem to be the only way to increase Soil Quality. Soil Quality is usually characterized by: o Increased infiltration, which allows water and air to penetrate easily o Aeration: which allows lots of air for the roots and organisms to breathe o Aggregation: which is a consistent mixture throughout o Organic matter content: which is vital for providing carbon for the microbes, plus nutrients for them eat and to recycle for the plants. o Decreased bulk density: which means a lower density and better porosity o Low-compaction: as opposed to dense clays and dead soil o Low-erosion: which means that the healthy soil has not washed away o Non-crusting: which means that the soil-surface has not yet become hard and impenetrable. Danger Nothing can help these problems unless farming practices are changed for the better. Placing more and more fertilizer and using stronger and stronger pesticides only makes the problem worse. The prolonged use of Chemical Fertilizers and environmental pollutants has left most of our growing soils unhealthy. Over time Chemical Fertilizers displace the micro-organisms in soil, and the soil loses quality So far Microbial solutions have been the only sustainable solutions to these problems. Indigenous Micro-organisms (IMO's) If we can enhance any of the natural functions upon which plants depend for growth, or increase soil health, we can improve plant growth. In many countries micro-organisms are manufactured and can be bought for use in farming. The (KNFA) of Korea, however, emphases the importance of using indigenous micro-organisms cultured locally. These are the best to protect local environments, maintain natural diversity and to reduce costs. The process of brewing IMO involves collecting micro-organisms from fields and forests in the vicinity of the farms where they are to be used.. To Make IMO o Place 1 Kg of steamed rice in a shallow container. Cover the container with a Muslin cloth or sack, then turn it upside down and bury it in the ground nearby, or cover it with soil so that the Micro-organisms can creep into the rice. o Cover the area well with a plastic sheet to prevent rain water from getting in. o Leave it for 5-6 days while the indigenous micro-organisms collect on the surface of the rice. o After this 5-6 days mix into the rice, 1/3 Kg of sugar or molassas adding 1 liter of water and cover again and place in a cool place. o Now leave this to Culture for about 10 days. After the ten days it is ready for use. This IMO culture, if not fed, will only live for about three months before it needs another similar shot of molassas and water to feed the microbes. The molassas additions can be repeated three times only, because by then there is no more Carbon or minerals left for the IMO to eat. However another way of feeding the culture is to periodically add small quantities of rice bran or wheat flour to keep the microbes fed. To use IMO, Strain off a small quantity from the main brew and dilute this into water to create a concentration 0.2% - 0.3%. This is about 1 tablespoon of IMO per litre of water (or about 30ml/Litre). IMO can have the following benefits: o When sprayed directly onto the leaves of plants it increases the photosynthetic potential (Questionable?? By this author) and thus increase the growth rate of the plants. o The IMO micro-organisms also act as a line of defense against disease (explained later) o When sprayed directly onto soil the micro-organisms improve the soil structure by increasing the Micro-flora and thereby the soils health. (only if soil has sufficient organic content to feed the organisms) o When used in the bedding material of pig houses and chicken pens, the micro-organisms increase the decomposition rate of the manure and thus reduce the odour; (This smell reduction is soon noticeable). o When applied to compost the micro-organisms increase the decomposition rate and enhance the compost. o When applied to animal feed the IMO's help pre-ferment the feed which enhances the digestive capacity of livestock. Given 1 tablespoon/litre of drinking water, the animal and poultry waste is greatly reduced in smell, and easily composted. Fermented Fruit / Plant Juice (FFJ)(FPJ) Any plant material or any foliage can be utilized for making these brews. Most Local plant material, even small amounts of grass can be used for the following FPJ. To Make FPJ o Place 1 Kg. of finely chopped waste plant material in a plastic bucket with 1 litre of water, mix in 1/3 to 1/2 Kg sugar (molassas). o Add 60ml (2tablespoons) of the diluted IMO as a fermenter. o Cover with a cloth, paper or, sack, not plastic because it needs air. o Place in a cool dark place for 10 days, after which the solids and liquid should have separated. o Strain the liquid in to a container. The left over Sediment can be used for composting, or used twice more to make a new brew, as above. To Use FPJ The liquid is diluted to (0.2% concentration), 30ml/Litrte (1 tablespoon per litre) and sprayed directly onto plants or applied to the soil. Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) Any Fruits such as strawberry, fig, mulberry, mango, papaya and banana (nearly any fruits) can be fermented into FFJ. To make FFJ o Place 1 Kg of finely chopped or mushed waste fruit material in a plastic bucket with 1 litre of water, mix in1/2 Kg sugar (molassas). o Add 2 tablespoons (60 ml) of the diluted IMO to act as a fermenter o Cover the mix with a cloth, paper or a sack. Do not use a plastic cover it needs air. Place in a cool, dark place for 10 days, after which the solids and liquid should have separated. o Strain into a container. The solids can be used for composting, or as above to make a new brew. To Use FFJ The liquid is diluted to (0.2% concentration), 60ml/Litre (2 tablespoon per litre) and sprayed directly onto plants or applied to the soil. FPJ and FFJ are most effective when used on similar fruits and plants in the area from which they came. Both these brews contain IMO which give the same benefits as the Indigenous micro-organisms Benefits of FPJ and FFJ o When FPJ and FFJ are sprayed on plants they act as a natural good-insect attractant, thus these sprays operate as bad-insect repellent. o This remaining IMO in the brew has anti fungal action on the plants o There are also anti-biotic Microbes in it which act as anti bacterial for the plants o The fermented plant/fruit matter in the FPJ/FFJ will have decomposed into NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium) plus Trace elements. which now become available to the plants o FPJ contains slightly more Nitrogen and Phosphorous than FFJ. In turn FFJ contains slightly more Potassium and less nitrogen than FPJ, so by mixing different quantities of these two and incorporate FAA with them (FAA is described in the paragraph after next).one can change the overall NPK fertilizing ratios as needed, by mixing a cocktail of the three fermented brews. This author also anticipates the following advantages. o If these brews are Foliar Sprayed correctly onto the plant, they could be absorbed into the leaf (see section on ÒFoliar SprayingÓ o Soil IMO's (which will be in FPJ and FFJ) have been shown to produce many plant growth-stimulators which if sprayed correctly could enter the stomata and enhance plant growth. o In addition they encourage the growth of soil micro-organisms which then facilitate the uptake of nutrients through the roots of plants. o FPJ/FFJ can also be applied to animal bedding, where it encourages micro-organism activity and thus enhances the decomposition of manure. o IMO/FPJ/FFJ cocktail, when given in water to animals or birds (30ml/Litre of water) reduces the smell of wastes to almost zero, and leaves the wastes in the first stages of decomposition. o FPJ and FFJ added to feed, add valuable trace elements and natural anti-biotics for animals and birds. o There seems to be evidence that the triple cocktail applied to animal feed makes it easier fir them to digest and adds good trace elements. Fish Amino Acid (FAA) FAA is made from fish wastes, such as bones, heads and skin. To Make o 1 Kg of Fish remains is mixed with 1Kg of crude sugar , inoculated with 2 tablespoons of IMO, and placed in a bucket, covered with paper, cloth or sacking and tied in place. o The mix is kept in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks. The To Use o The mixture is diluted with water to 0.1% concentration (30ml/Litre or 1tablespoon per litre of water) o Apply directly to the soil and/or Foliar Spray onto plants. (read about Foliar Spraying later in this article) FAA replaces amino acids and nitrogen in the soil for plant uptake. Fermented Kahol (Snails) This is a direct alternative for FAA and made and used in exactly the same way as FAA Spraying a Cocktail of FFJ, FPJ and FAA directly on plants It can reasonably be assumed that the above three brews contain the following: (which if they can enter the plant's stomata are capable of enhancing plant growth). o The 13 decomposed plant nutrient elements,. o Simple organic molecules easily absorbed by a plant. o Cell building Amino Acids o Microbial growth enhancers. o Anti-pest capabilities o IMO and its anti-biotic microbes Oriental Herbal Nutrients (OHN) (A natural Pesticide) OHN is used as a pesticide and to control mildews on leaves In OHN, Local herbs are utilized as a Pesticide and a Fungicide which will prevent the growth of Downy and Powdery Mildew. Herbs such as (Herb-Angelica), -(Cinnamomum Laurel Family) and (Chinese Licorice) are suggested by Korea. For the Philippines this Author suggests that Neem seeds and or leaves, or Maria de Cacao leaves be used. Both have strong pesticide characteristics. Many patented world wide. o Place 1 Kg of chopped Neem leaves with 2 litres of rice wine, beer or (coconut Tuba ) in a bucket and soak for 12 hours. o This is probably an enzymatic cell dissolver of the herbal oils from the leaves. Note: The leaves if not ground up, need to be weighted down into the vinegar or they will float and not have the oil extracted, o After the 12 hours, add 1/3 Kg of Sugar for every 1 Kg of the herbal leaves. Also add 1/2Kg of Ginger, or Garlic, or Onion, or (Chili) and leave to ferment for 4-5 days. o Now add (1 litres of any 40% (80 proof) Distilled alcohol. This does a solvent type extraction of the oils. o Leave for 7-10 days more before use. To Use Dilute to 0.1% concentration.30ml/Litre of water (about half a tablespoon/Litre) prior to spraying onto plants. Mix and combine with equal parts of FPJ and brown-rice vinegar or ( Tuba ). Lactic acid bacteria serum (LAS) Starter After the rice for the IMO has been boiled keep the rice water. To Make LAS o Place _ litre of rice water in a container cover and store in a cool dark place for 7 days. o Skim off the froth and throw it away. Keep the liquid o To this liquid add 10times as much milk. Store again for 7 days. Skim off the curds and throe them away. Keep the yellow liquid. o Add 1/3 Kg of sugar for each litre of yellow liquid. Store for 7 days. o Skim off the crud and throw it away. Keep the brown liquid. To Use LAS Dilute to a 0.2% concentration (60ml/Litre of water) (2 tablespoons) o Spray on plants to fortify phyllosphere microbes. o Feed to Humans, animals, or birds as described above in FPJ.Animals Calcium/Phosphorous extract (Calphos) To Make o Soak , 2 Kg of burnt animal bones in10 litres of vinegar. for two weeks until they dissolve. The extract contains Phosphorous, Calcium and Boron. o Egg shells soaked in vinegar for two weeks provide pure calcium. NOTE Calcium is such an immobile element is can not be used as a foliar spray Why do the above processes work? In IMO, FPJ, FFJ, FAA and LAS we are multiplying micro-organisms by feeding them Carbon, Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium and trace elements. During IMO creation, we use large amounts of sugar (C6.H12.O6) or molasses. This is added to the mix,which feeds the organisms. which the rice has attracted from soil. We need to provide the organisms with energy as well as lots of Carbon, Hydrogen, and Oxygen., while they can decompose the rice. The Basic Assumption behind IMO's General Functions of different Beneficial Soil micro-organisms o Fixation of atmospheric nitrogen, o Decomposition of organic wastes and residues, o Suppression of soil-borne pathogens, o Recycling and increased availability of plant nutrients, o Degradation of toxicants including pesticides, o Production of antibiotics and other bioactive compounds, o Production of simple organic molecules for plant uptake, o Complexation of heavy metals to limit plant uptake, o Solubilization of insoluble nutrient sources, o Production of polysaccharides to improve soil aggregation. We have isolated over 48 Microbial processes which EM's (Effective micro-organisms) carry out. Here are some of the IMO groups and types o Actinomycetes, Actinobacter, Ascomycetes for disease suppression o Fungi o Protozoa o Algae o Bacterial Groups o Ammonifiers o Gas-producing anaerobes o Anaerobes o De-nitrifiers o Aerobic cellulose decomposers o Anaerobic cellulose decomposers o Spore formers o "Radiobacter" types Azotobacter o Chelators. These form complexes with the metal-ions in Nutrients. This helps plants to absorb them. o Actinmyctes and Fungi are a big player for decomposition. o Azotobacters Phycomycete fungi do Nitrogen fixing. o Zymogenic bacteria finish off complex fermentation processes. These Zymogenic microbes are the really good ones. They are the ones that give off the Òhealthy soilÓ smell. The IMO brew attempts to cultivate these Zymogenic microbes for making available large amounts of the elemental nutrients, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins and other bio-active substances which can directly or indirectly enhance the growth, yield and quality of crops, and Suppression of Fusarium fungi What Beneficial micro-organisms Do Best In general terms these are the organisms which: o Collect atmospheric Nitrogen, o Decompose vegetable matter, o Detoxify Pesticides, o Suppress plant diseases, o Suppression of Fusarium fungi o Assist plant roots in taking up Nutrients, o Produce bio-active and beneficial plant hormones, vitamins and enzymes o One very important function of soil microbes is to supply Oxygen to plant roots while they are fixing soil Nitrogen. o Many bacteria and fungi extracted from soil are able to synthesize compounds that provoke a growth response in plant tissue , namely indoleacetic acid or gibberellins, which are plant growth hormones. Others produce vitamins. Many may also produce unidentified growth factors. Beneficial organisms only inhabit about 5% of a root's Rhizosphere. (We call the root zone the rhizosphere) Some even enter and live in the root tissue and can pass good and bad things into plant roots. Some Accepted Facts It seems to be a general rule that plant growth is largely dependent upon the surrounding soil microflora, and especially those around the plant roots. Farmers using Mono-cultures, failing to rotate crops, using pesticides or chemicals which disrupt the soil's micro-organisms, reduce crop yields and can even lead to crop failures. Research indicates that the microflora within a plant's rhizosphere can accelerate growth and enhance resistance to disease. The Microflora can actually discourage some harmful insects by producing bioactive substances. It is not a coincidence that the first crop on any virgin lot is the best. The concept of IMO's, both above and below ground is proving beneficial to NFS. It can be reasonably surmised that maintaining these beneficial micro-organisms around the plants influences crop quality, and also that destruction of the microflora leads to poorer quality. However the one draw back to the Micro-organism systems is that every different place has different micro-organisms and it is almost impossible to predict which will predominate at any one place. Many commercial companies have promoted their micro-organism as anti-pest and a growth enhancer. This can not be predicted for plants or places other than the place where the microbes were manufactured and tested. It is important to know that soil micro-organisms vary tremendously. Luckily for us most of the micro-organisms are good ones. Fertile and productive soils generally have lots of organic matter which is necessary for sustaining high counts of micro-organisms. It could therefore be said that NFS is largely dependent upon fertilization with organic composts. A limited sample from micrographs of soils seems to indicate that microbial colonies seem to be isolated to only 20% of the volume of the soils tested. This would indeed leave the way open for fantastic soil improvement if this percentage could be increased. Seaweeds, fish meal, and chitin from crushed crab shells,(all having come from the sea, which contains every imaginable element)supplement soil micronutrients (all the trace elements needed by plants). In addition the beneficial antibiotic-producing actinomycetes also increase, which makes the soil disease-suppressing. How Soil micro-organisms Help Us o Soil Micro-organisms basically decompose plant matter into its NPK and trace elements. o They also enhance soils by Nitrogen fixing. o They act as catalysts to help roots absorb nutrients and can create anti-biotics which hold plant pathogens off. o Low production of greenhouse gases (e.g., methane, ammonia, and carbon dioxide) o The IMO brews with high Carbon and Low Nitrogen destroy the bad fungi like Fusarium, which prefer the abused soils which tend to high Nitrogen and low organic matter. o The IMO brews appear to encourage the anti-biotic microbes which produce. Penicillium, Trichoderma, and Aspergillus, and especially the and actinomycetes of the genus Streptomyces o Good crop yields result from a soil which has lots of anti-biotic Microbes and many Nitrogen fixing microbes. o IMO's attempt to capture these good microbes in a liquid form Foliar Spraying Explained There are presently two ways of using IMO derivatives for increased plant heath and growth: The first is by Spraying directly onto plants, the other is by adding to soils, composts, or mulches. Incorrect Foliar Spraying is wasted effort and can be dangerous to plants (This Authors believes that the local practice of Foliar Feeding Orchids, (which are saprophytic and surface feeders), has led most growers to misunderstanding how foliar feeding works, what it can do, and how it does it. What Is Foliar Feeding ? o How do leaves accept feeding? o When is it best to spray? o How effective is the spray? o What do we need to add to the spray? o What is the most effective way to spray? What is the difference between Foliar Spraying and Foliar Feeding? Foliar spraying is the general term for spraying such things as pesticides or herbicides onto plants. Foliar feeding is the more specific term for spraying nutrients onto plant leaves as a means of counteracting nutrient shortages within the plant. Indigenous Micro-organisms, Bio-stimulants, vitamins, hormones or anti-desiccants are also sometimes sprayed on foliage. There is a great deal more to foliar feeding than just spraying plants with a nutrient mix. Leaves and plants do not easily absorb outside substances, because over millions of years, they have developed elaborate protections against foreign substances,. Leaves The Waxy cuticle The waxy surface coating on leaves and stems makes them very poor water absorbers. Nature has designed leaves as the world's most efficient condensing surface for creating micro-droplets during mists and fogs, during which, condensed droplets run off the leaves down to the ground, which in turn water the plant roots at the Òdrip-line,Ó which is the place, under the ground, where the water-absorbing root-tip-hairs are. A leaf's wax cuticle is tender, and is the plant's only barrier against the outside world. It is designed to prevent water, chemicals, nutrients, and pathogens from entering the leaf. Damage To Foliage Leaves have millions of wax platelets, arranged like fish scales, covering the cuticle. These platelets stop water, but allow gases and water vapour to pass. It is unlikely that any of the IMO substances could enter a leaf through the cuticle. Any damage to these waxy scales allows pathogenic Bacteria to enter. Any disruption of the cuticle causes the leaves become leaky, thus causing a loss to the plant's efficient water usage. Environmental dusts settling between these wax platelets will disrupt water transpiration. Some very small particle sizes can work their way between the scales and cause damage, usually seen as brown, burnt leaf sections. Leaves need two to three weeks to regenerate new wax on their surfaces, but in general terms leaves can not actually repair cell damage. Some Other Causes Of Leaf Damage These five elements disrupt a leaf's wax cuticle, both in thickness and in size, and also increase the leaves' vulnerability to pests. o Very strong light. o Ultra-violet light o Infra-red light. o High Temperatures. o Low Humidity. IMO sprayed on leaves The quantity of the sprayed IMO and Fermented juices which may pass through a leaf's upper waxy surface has yet to be scientifically determined. Leaf Stomata Stomata, underneath most leaves, are the leaf's breathing holes. They are the only way in and out of a leaf. Stomata have daily opening and closing rhythms. Let us look at how and when leaves open and close their stomata, and how to use this to our advantage in foliar spraying Leaves have more chloroplasts and stomata than do stems. Cacti have far less stomata than regular leaves. Stomata apertures affect the rate of photosynthesis and water uptake Carbon dioxide, oxygen and water vapour have to pass through the stomata openings Light increases the stomata size, causing more water loss Most leaves are thin, to allow light penetration and carbon dioxide entry into cells, for efficient photosynthesis Most leaves have their stomata openings on the bottom surfaces, so sprays should be applied upwards. Again, the quantity of the IMO and fermented juices pass into leaves has yet to be scientifically measured. Stomata Open and Close Signals The stomata in leaves are constantly altering their opening size to balancing available CO2, Relative Humidity, Temperature and Light. Foliar applications need stomata fully open for best penetration. Young leaves are sensitive organs with very permeable, immature cuticles, through which nutrients and chemicals penetrate much more easily than they penetrate older leaves, which have heavier cuticles, denser hairs and slower reactions to opening and closing their stomata. Very young leaves would probably be penetrated by IMO sprays. Younger leaves are more easily damaged by foliar sprays. Leaves developed during high temperatures have a much thinner cuticle than those from colder surroundings. These thinner cuticles are more easily affected by strong sprays. Strong chemicals become phyto-toxic (phyto = plant). Thin cuticle leaves are also more easily penetrated by bugs and pathogens. Leaves are leaching nutrients out all the time. These are the very same nutrients that an inexperienced grower wants to apply as a foliar-feed. Vast quantities of the mobile nutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Magnesium and Molybdenum) are washed off leaves by condensation and rain. (Especially as the leaves get older) For this reason, it is best to foliar feed only when observing the symptoms of a specific Nutrient shortage. Mobile nutrients should not be the ones usually sprayed, other than in exceptional shortage circumstances. Most of a foliar spray ends up on the ground. When to Foliar Feed Foliar feeding can be five times as efficient at delivering chemicals to the roots. As a rule, foliar feeding is too efficient to be used routinely, because it can cause a plant's nutrient balance to change. Spraying should be limited to times when plants need more nutrition than the roots can supply. For example: o In cold clear weather, where light is activating the leaves but the roots are too cool to supply the leaves demands, a supplemental spray may be necessary. o In poor soil when the weather is good, and the roots cannot supply sufficient nutrients for the rapid growth a supplemental spray is used o High-yield plants in heavy flower and fruit can sometimes manifest a specific short-term need which a spray will correct. Spraying should be done as soon as symptoms of nutrient deficiency are observed. Sprays should be well-timed, properly formulated (Chemical Fertilizer). Foliar feeding should be judiciously applied, and only once. This should have the plant healthy in about a week. After the first week a second spray of (Chemical Fertilizer) may be all that is required to get the plant back to health.. If this does not solve the problems, there are other problems which need to be investigated. Micro-nutrient shortage symptoms can be quickly fixed with a Chemical Nutrient Spray, but go extremely light with the micro-nutrients., and never spray them more than once a week. Other Times to Foliar Feed At the very first symptoms of a nutrient deficit, a Chemical foliar feed can fix the problem before there is any long-term loss of yield, and will give the grower time to find the source of the problem. Unfortunately, if the roots have a basic nutrient uptake problem, no amount of foliar feed will help in the long term, Foliar feeds confuse the normal internal pathways of plant nutrition. If plants develop high quantities of nutrients in their leaves, the roots progressively shut down the plant's nutrient supply, worsening the original root problem. In a high-yield garden, when a plant has fast-growing flowers and fruits, the phloem (the plant's internal supply tubes for nutrients) is usually slow in moving calcium, boron and iron to the fast growing sites. So these places often need to receive a supplemental Nutrient spray. Nitrogen/urea can be a timely supplemental spray on young plants that have not yet built up reserves. It can also be used on a fast blooming plant. Potassium is fast depleted by flowers and fruits. In a high-yield plant, approaching this stage, a spray of potassium every other week can assist fast flowering and fruiting. Flowering and fruiting high-yield plants in conditions below 10¡C and above 25¡C can experience root-potassium shortages, at which times a foliar application may be called for. Nutrient Considerations For Chemical Nutrient foliar feeding to be non-phyto-toxic, sprays must contain only minute fractions of chemical. To give some idea of quantity, bear in mind that a large flowering shrub will absorb only two or three teaspoons of nutrients in a whole year, How Concentrated In a one-litre spray bottle filled with water, two or three grains would be enough. A spray concentration must never exceed an (Electrical Conductivity) EC=0.5 to1.0, which approximately 400 - 700 PPM (Parts Per Million). Dried Nutrient Salts building up on sprayed plants are always a problem, which leads to what is called osmotic shock. Osmotic shock is not always obvious, it will not brown immediately, only after some time does the burned foliage show where the strong spray settled, by which time it is too late. Incorrect Foliar Spray results If you misdiagnose a shortage and spray Chemical Fertilizer based on bad assumptions, you have a double problem. It took a week to develop the problem in the first place, and it will take another week before you can see if your remedy has worked. Some forms of Chemical Nitrogen are so mobile that they can rush into the stomata extremely fast. If the humidity happens to be high (stomata full open), it can cause plant burn. Unfortunately it does not help to dilute the mix, because however much there is, it goes straight into the cells. This can sometimes be used to advantage. When other nutrients are mixed into the nitrogen mix, it will carry these others in with it much more easily. Phyto-toxicity is difficult to predict. Very often chemicals that are harmless on plants when used individually, when mixed together become phyto-toxic and burn the plant. Never guess, when mixing different spray additives together. Experiment on non essential plants. Spray Effectiveness The effectiveness of foliar feeding depends first on the rate of absorption, and then how quickly the absorbed nutrients reach their destination in the plant cells. Nutrients with a low mobility (calcium sulfur, iron, boron, copper, manganese and zinc) should be applied several times. Foliar feeding calcium does not usually help, because it is too immobile to move through the plant. The following plant characteristics affect Foliar Spray effectiveness: o The thickness of the leaf skin, (which is the waxy cuticle that protects a leaf by keeping water out and letting only gasses in), is a major obstacle against nutrient absorption o The more stomata a plant has the more area there is for the spray to enter o When the stomata are closed, plants are not transpiring or circulating fluids, so spraying during those times is a waste. When the stomata are closed, plants are not transpiring or circulating fluids, so spraying during those times is a waste. o High concentrations of surrounding carbon dioxide, high temperature, low humidity, and dry root conditions, all close down the stomata. Stomata use an internal water pressure of about 100 lbs/sq inch before they start opening, (more pressure than in a car tire). o Different types of leaf hairs will affect how sprayed substances flow and penetrate into their mat to reach the cuticle. Most leaves have hairs. Some are singular, like a cactus, and some are velvety, like peaches and young fruits. Tomato plants are an example of small, very dense hairs which let no water pass, and sprays generally run off with without any penetration. o Spray timing is a key factor for stomata penetration. The Environment in early mornings, with high humidity and low temperatures, condenses a natural moist film on leaves. This is the best time to achieve Òsoak throughÓ. o If the air is too hot, sprays evaporate quickly and leave Nutrient Salt residues evaporated on the hairs. o The pH of Sprayed Chemical Nutrient influences stomata opening. A foliar feed of pH 7.0 to pH 9.0 is most efficient, because high pH helps stomata penetration, but be careful with the spray runoff, because if it has a high pH, it can damage the plant's roots. o Sprays pH below pH 7.0, tend to close the stomata. IMO, and its derivatives, having been largely created by anaerobic Fermentation may be below pH 7.0. This presents a problem and should have the pH raised a Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) o Temperature and light activate a plant's metabolism, which is an indirect measure of how fast a plant will absorb and redirect any chemicals sprayed on it. o High light, low carbon dioxide and high humidity stimulate stomata opening, so choose the best of these conditions for spraying. Surfactants added to Foliar Sprays. The sprayed Chemical nutrient has to get into the stomata before it can start working. Hence we have to add a surfactant to Foliar Sprays in order to break the surface tension of the water and allow entry into the stomata. Surfactants reduce the surface tension of water and make it spread in an extremely thin layer. Without surfactants, spray drops remain the size of rain drops (much the same as those on a car's windshield,) and roll off the plant with no effect. The advantage of a surfactant can be considerable. Soaps and detergents are, in fact, surfactants. They can be liquids or powders, and can be used on plants. Specialty Plant-spray surfactants usually have no charge, which means that they do not react with the plant's chemical charges.. We also want a bio-degradable product that does not stay on the plant forever, Surfactants generally make up to 3 percent by volume of the total spray. Try your spray on a tomato leaf or a peach, and see if it instantly wets through to the skin. Stomata holes are even finer than these hairs so, the spray will usually run off without getting into the Stomata. All foliar sprays must contain sufficient surfactant to facilitate stomata entry. Whether IMO and fermented juices, without a surfactant, have a sufficiently low surface tension and can gain sufficient entry into a leaf, has yet to be measured. How To Foliar Spray If you spray your plants too often, you will damage and kill them, mainly because the spray concentration on leaves is cumulative. Foliar nutrients that enter the stomata are mostly redistributed to the plant cells via the phloem tubules. Spraying too often leads to too much residue, and salts that can then burn the leaves. Rule 1 Always spray from the bottom up into the stomata. Plant hairs (trichomes) on hairy plants reduce or even stop water and nutrient penetration. Place a peach under water and its surface comes out completely dry. Avoid making large drops of spray. Always create a fine mist of humidity at the spray tip. Very fine mist drops cause the surface to electrically attract them as a fine film layer that will not roll off. Rule 2 Do not spray when a plant is hot or the surroundings are too dry. A further disadvantage of hot dry surroundings is that the salts in the spray soon crystallize, and will then penetrate no further. Mobile nutrients move freely around in a plant. Others can move only very slowly, and some cannot move once they have been deposited. Even after a plant has successfully absorbed a spray, it still has to move the nutrients to where they are needed. Rule 3. High-mobility Chemical nutrients, such as nitrogen (especially urea), potassium, and phosphorous, should be applied very sparingly, Low-mobility Chemical nutrients, such as copper, zinc, sulphur, manganese and iron, often need more than one application. Immobile nutrients, such as calcium and boron, are not generally used as a foliar feed, because they cannot be translocated down the phloem by the plant. A urea/nitrogen spray in high humidity has almost instant penetration into the leaves. Because of this, you must be careful not to make the urea too strong. This nitrogen tends to carry other nutrients along with it into the plant, so it can be used as a base mix. Rule 4. Where possible, spray the new growth, because it still has thin cuticles and few hairs, which means good penetration. Rule 5. Sprays Use pH 7 to pH 8.5 for foliar sprays. Below pH 4 and above pH 8.5, potassium phosphate (K2HPO4) is toxic to leaves even at lower concentrations. Plant stomata get a strong open/close signal from pH, and low pH sends a strong close signal. Rule 6. Always use a surfactant with foliar sprays. Add enough to break the surface tension, usually about 3%. Dishwashing detergent has a negative charge, but is OK. Leaves are constantly taking in carbon dioxide and passing out oxygen and water vapour through their stomata, so there is no way that any solution with a high surface tension can pass through the inner cuticle. A strong, preferably non-polarized, surfactant is needed. Secrets For A Successful Spray o Use the highest concentration, one that will not burn the leaves, but will give the best absorption. Do not over-concentrate the mix, or the leaves will burn and die. o Add sufficient wetting agent to prevent droplets from forming on the leaves. If drops form, they will just roll off with no effect. o Stop applying spray long before the spray forms drops, which will create a sheet of water which will flow off the leaf like a sheet of plastic. o Do not use a nozzle that creates large droplets, because these will bounce off like tennis balls. o The test of a good mix, applied by a good operator, is one that will cover, but not flow down, a vertical sheet of glass. Personal Conclusion Because I am a Greenhouse Hydroponic Specialist, Scientifically trained on Chemical Nutrients and because of my training in Foliar Feeding, I have serious reservations about the efficacy of this IMO system when applied as a non-controlled Foliar Spray. I have not been able to find any scientific experiments or verification for the claims of IMO applied as a foliar spray. However there seems to be anecdotal evidence that some good is derived from the IMO spraying system. So far I have seen more convincing evidence of IMO's efficacy as a feed supplement to control waste odours and as a composter. My training with soilless growing mediums leads me to believe that this entire microbe utilization would be best used as a soil additive for soil health. Graham Reinders 8 October 2005 ------------------------------------------------ San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org ------------------------------------------------ http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting ------------------------------------------------ http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Subject: Looking for Toilet Paper Rolls (empty of course!) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 06:16:56 +0300 (IDT) From: ariel023 Hi friends I am using the empty toilet paper rolls (tubes) made out of card board for propagation of cuttings and planting of large seeds. I fill it with the wet peat moss mixture, arrange in a drained plastic box with 4-5 cms of mixture as a bottom layer also, cover with PE and I get portable, mini glass house conditions for the germination - rooting of hard wood cutting. The final planting is with the roll itself so that the roots are not damaged during transplanting. It reminds the Giffy type that was common 20 years ago Ariel ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Good News for seed importers in the USA! Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 22:49:01 -0000 From: "oscarrj" First I want to thank Stephan Reeves for leading me to find out about this new law change. The USDA Aphis branch will be changing its rules for seed importation. As you may remember in April 2004 USDA asked for comments regarding possible changes to be made to return to the old method of just needing an import permit. 45 people submitted comments, 42 of which were in favor of reducing the need for a phytosanitary certificate. Thanks to those of you who took the time to submit comments. It worked! OK, it only took USDA over 2 years to do something, but at least they did take action! As a result, as of May 15, 2006 Aphis will allow the importation of small seed quantities without the need for a phytosanitary certificate. You will still need to have an import permit, and the seeds will still be inspected on arrival before release. But there will not be the need to get an inspection and phyto certificate from the country of export. As you may know in many cases this was either impossible, next to impossible, or so costly as to make it not worth while. The way Aphis is defining "small" quantities is 50 packets or less of no more than 50 seeds each, or 10 grams each, from each taxon. For additional information, see attached link: http://www.regulations.gov, click on the "Advanced Search" tab and select "Docket Search." In the Docket ID field, enter APHIS-2006- 0053, then click on "Submit." The [final rule, affirmation, etc.] will appear in the resulting list of documents. You may also contact Dr. Arnold T. Tschanz, Senior Staff Officer, Commodity Import Analysis and Operations Staff, PPQ, APHIS, 4700 River Road, Unit 133, Riverdale, MD 20737-1236; (301) 734-5306. Oscar, Happy in Hawaii ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Passiflora identification question Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 21:40:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Waters I have a passiflora variety I found in an exotic fruit market in Vancouver. The fruit is orange with flecks of black spots, almost the size of the palm of your hand. Its crust is like an eggshell, it cracks and peels off easily to reveal white fluffy grapefruit like interior, and then beyond that it contains black seeds with gray arils, taste is tangy tropical flavor. I planted the seed and it is a beautiful plant, but only 1 large oval leaf, instead of the three lobed ones. DOes anyone know what this is? since it was planted in september 2005 it may still be too young for 3 lobes to start. WIll it change to a 3 lobed leaf? I cant wait to see the flower! I will post pics. Tom W. ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: GM Papaya Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 17:05:49 EDT From: kahiwal@cs.com GM papaya have been hyped as a huge success story - nothing could be further from the truth. --- Hawaiian papaya: market loss and contamination By MELANIE BONDERA Bangkok Post, 27 April 2006 http://www.biothai.org/cgi-bin/content/news/show.pl?0206 Why do creators of the genetically-engineered (GE) papaya fruit have to push so hard to introduce it? If the GE papaya is really a simple solution to a major agricultural disease that farmers want, it would be readily adopted by governments, farmers and markets. However, it is not. The concern over this genetically modified orgnanism (GMO) food is so great, that it creates resistance, loss of markets, contamination and more loss of markets. In Thailand, the government has a ban on field trials and hasn't commercially released the papaya after almost a decade of testing. Farmers have shown resistance and expressed concern that the European Union and Japan don't want to import the GM papaya. In Jamaica, the GM papaya was never commercially released after many years of field trials as the primary export market is the EU, which does not tolerate GM papaya. In Venezuela, field trials were cancelled after a medical doctor advised the public against eating GM papaya. Attempts to release the GM papaya in such diverse places as Mexico, Australia, Taiwan and Brazil have all been thwarted by governments and farmers who fear market loss and contamination. In Hawaii, despite a major epidemic of ring spot virus, it took heavy pressure and combating farmer resistance to introduce the GM papaya. The University of Hawaii and the US Department of Agriculture could have aggressively educated or required the farmers in the Puna growing area on the island of Hawaii to chop down and burn all virus-infected trees. The reduction of the virus would have kept the disease at its usual endemic levels and not allowed it to reach the epidemic. Farmers could also have been advised not to grow in huge plantations, to intercrop, to use soil amendments to grow healthier trees, plant trap-crops for the aphid vector, and spray or spread silicates to block aphid penetration of leaves. The amount of time and money to do this would have been far less than the efforts to force the introduction of the GM papaya. In order to get the GM papaya introduced, the big papaya packing companies who ship to Japan, Hawaii's most lucrative papaya market, had asked the legislature to require the University of Hawaii to aggressively educate the little papaya farmers who ring the big farms (who sell non-GM fruit to Japan) to chop down their trees and plant GM trees. These large, powerful growers didn't want to grow GM papaya. They wanted the little farmers to be the buffer zone to protect them from the virus. This caused the little farmers to form a group called the Papaya Freedom Fighters to fight this forced introduction of GM papaya. There were close to 200 papaya farmers in the main growing area at the time of introduction and 150 members of the Papaya Freedom Fighters at their peak. This group experienced various kinds of threats from the forces introducing the GM papaya. From 1998, the commercial release of the GM papaya in Hawaii until now, we've lost half of our papaya farmers. The primary reason is the GM papaya has never been worth as much as the non-GM fruit. Our biggest loss is much of the Japanese market. They were 60% of Hawaii's market at the time of the introduction of the GM papaya and they slammed the door shut on GMOs. Despite government assurances, they have never reopened that in seven years. Even if they did, consumer rejection in food contamination-sensitive Japan is almost assured. Canada shut down their market. They reopened it five years later to GM papaya, but it remains a small sliver of our market. Some GM papayas go to the US mainland, but that market is primarily held by Mexico and Brazil. Most GM papayas are dumped on the local market here in Hawaii, unlabelled. Marketing GM papayas in Hawaii unlabelled, has been the biggest source of contamination. The proponents of the GM papaya like to focus the discussion of contamination issues around pollen. This is a diversionary tactic. Each genetically modified papaya, purchased and eaten, leaves 100-500 GM seeds to be thrown out into our environmentally-planted areas. To legally farm GM papaya, you have to buy the seed from the university, sign a contract and watch a video on buffer zones to prevent pollen escape. Most consumers have accidentally planted many more, just by eating papaya for breakfast regularly. GMO Free Hawaii began testing papayas in 2003 for farmers and gardeners who didn't want GM papayas and consistently found 30-50% GM contaminated papayas in places they shouldn't be. In 2004, GMO Free Hawaii did a pilot Contamination Study to bring to light this contamination and call for further in-depth studies. With independent PCR testing, we found 50% contamination on the island within the major growing area, 5% contamination on Oahu and the University of Hawaii's seed supply contaminated at 1%. Organic farmers started testing and were shocked to find contamination on their farms. This led to market loss and often the chopping down of trees in efforts to decontaminate. Toi Lahti lost three separate markets and his seed line, which he'd been developing for 17 years. GMO are not allowed in organic production in the US. Many organic farmers are choosing to grow other crops as it is no longer possible to grow organic papaya in Hawaii. The farmers and big papaya packers who still sell non-GM papaya to Japan, have to spend a lot of time and labour testing papayas to prove they are not contaminated. Each tree and each shipment need testing and the Department of Agriculture verifies by testing 1% of each of those. This is a fragile system which still allows for some GM-contaminated fruits and many GM-contaminated seeds to get through. Japan may at any point lose patience with this contamination and look for papayas from another country which has protected its growing areas from the rampant GM contamination of papaya that we have here in Hawaii. Melanie Bondera is a farmer on Kanalani Ohana Farm, on the Big Island of Hawaii. She works with GMO Free Hawaii on the problems of GM papaya in Hawaii. <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200605A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - May 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200605B.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Book: çrboles frutales ex—ticos y poco conocidos en Puerto Rico (Fruit Trees - Exotic And Little Known In Puerto Rico) Read about it in "Readers Write." I especially recommend it for you if you have some fluency in Spanish, and if you are not, it still is useful for its photographs and line drawings. Several new subscribers for you to help with their questions. I appreciate your participation in making them feel welcome. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber-Near Palm Springs, California Susan Reese "New" Subscriber, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands, BWI "Walton, Joel" New Subscriber - Camarillo, CA Larry Modugno New Subscriber "Brian S. Hopson" New Subscriber - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia "Dol Malek" New Subscriber - San Luis Obispo County, California "Smith Held" <><><> Readers Write <><><> Book-çrboles frutales ex—ticos y poco conocidos en Puerto Rico Leo Manuel Bell Shenoi looking for nurseries in Florida Otto Tonti Mystery passionfruit "Holzinger, Bob" To: Tom Re: Champagne Mango "david.crfg-sd" To: "Hallin, Max" Re: Fruit For Congestion Problems Dan Jaboticaba phil hamilton Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of CRFG Leo Manuel Passionfruit in Ukraine? (Former USSR) Igor Lyannoy <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm To Bag a Bad Beetle, Researchers Tap Forensic Science ARS News Service Seed-Rotting Microbes Sought to Battle Weeds ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber-Near Palm Springs, California Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 07:52:49 -0800 From: Susan Reese Hi, I am Suze Reese, in the Palm Springs, California, USA area. I have no fruit trees at the moment, although I would like a Mexican guava, pineapple guava, and want to know of others. My favorite is Mango. We have a lot of citrus here in the valley, ripe for the picking on local streets. I prepare the local olives in various Mediterranean recipes. I subscribed to this newsletter a few years back and find myself referring to it in many conversations. Kindest Regards Suze ------------------------------------------------ Subject: "New" Subscriber, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands, BWI Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 10:29:50 -0500 From: "Walton, Joel" Thanks - I used to receive the newsletter before but anyway here goes: I am Joel Walton, living on Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands, BWI. I grow mango, avocado, bananas, plantains, citrus, atemoya, sugar apple, guanabana, corazon, mulberry, burdekin plum, ciruela, ambarella, coffee, nutmeg, pomegranate, grape, strawberry, pineapples, ackee, mamey sapote, sapodilla, breadfruit, grumicham, pitomba, cherry of the rio grande, guavas, sugar cane, jaboticaba, carambola, acerola, pitanga, pitahaya, chaya, bay leaf, curry leaf, allspice, grossella, caimityo, abui, lychee (no fruit set), longan (no fruit set), date, grapes, rambai, white sapote (no fruit set), cashew, wax jambu, etc Looking to learn about dates and pitahayas Best regards, Joel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Camarillo, CA Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 10:51:15 -0700 From: Larry Modugno I am Larry Modugno and my wife Betty & I live in Camarillo, CA. Our more tropical fruit trees we are growing are the papaya, sapote and banana. Our other trees are the macadamia, loquat, peach, avocado, lemon, lime, fig, Anna Apple, Granny Smith Apple, plum, apricot, orange, tangerine, Nashi pear, Japanese persimmon. I am interested in planting a Mango tree and do not know how well they grow in this (Ventura County) area. I would appreciate any help on growing Mangos. My Email is: lmodugno@adelphia.net Thank you Larry Modugno ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 11:40:43 -0700 (PDT) From: "Brian S. Hopson" I am interested in finding & eating rare banana fruit. Sign me up! Brian mailto:bhop31@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 07:20:39 +0100 (BST) From: "Dol Malek" Hi Leo, I'm interested to received your rarefruit newsletter. Here some info about my self My name : Dol Malek Country : Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Profession : Engineer Currently I'm growing grape, dragon fruit, fig, mulbery and other tropical fruits in my land. I'm very much interested in grape for tropical country. Currently i have 5 type of grape which 2 give me a good fruits every time. Other than grape i like to plant fruit that is exotic in my country. Hope your newsletter will five some info that is valuable to me. Dol Malek ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - San Luis Obispo County, California Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 15:00:45 -0400 (EDT) From: "Smith Held" I am Smith Held, in Cayucos, San Luis Obispo County, California. I grow avocados, oranges, blood oranges, cherimoyas, macadamias and tangerines, and am interested in lychees. Thank you, Smitty <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Book: çrboles frutales ex—ticos y poco conocidos en Puerto Rico (Fruit Trees - Exotic And Little Known In Puerto Rico) http://www.laeditorialupr.com/catalogo/DisplayDetail.aspx?which=597 Seems to show price of only $26.06, rather than $28.95 Authors Juan A. Rivero and Bryan R. Brunner ISBN: 0-8477-2346-1 Retail: $28.95 Publisher: La Editorial, Universidad de Puerto Rico PO Box 23322 - San Diego Juan PR 00931-3322 1-877-838-7788; F. 787.753.9116 http://www.laedicotialupr.com mailto:erivera@upr.edu Published: April, 2006 Pages: 358 Illustrations: 250+ color photographs, 30+ color illustrations, 10 B&W line drawings Size: 5 1/2" x 8 1/2" x 1" Format: Paperback Subjects: Gardening/Trees, Science/Horticulture Distributor: Baker & Taylor Barcoded: Yes Description: "This lavishly illustrated guide describes rare and exotic fruit trees grown in Puerto Rico. Aside from each tree's physical description, every entry elaborates on its propagation, cultivation, uses, plagues, varieties and related species. Common names in English are listed alongside the Spanish and Latin names. The book also includes a guide to further reading, a glossary of relevant horticultural terms, a graphic guide to grafting, budding and layering terms and a directory of rare and exotic tree owners in Puerto Rico." Leo's comments: I only received this book a few days ago, but it is worthwhile for its color photographs and graphic guide to grafting, budding, and layering, even if it is in Spanish - a language in which I am not fluent. In addition to what's described above, there are extensive Table of Contents and Index. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Bell Shenoi looking for nurseries in Florida Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 22:09:12 -0400 From: Otto Tonti In Miami: Pine Island Nursery, 16300 S.W. 184th St. Miami, FL 33187 Ph: 305-233-5501 Winter Garden: Our KidÕs Tropicals 17229 Phil C Peters Rd. Winter Garden, FL 34787 E-mail: ourkidstro@aol.com Ph: 407-877-6883 Pine Island: The Treehouse (Bob & Vivian MurrayÉvery knowledgeable) 15621 Quail Trail Bokeelia, FL 33922 Ph: 239-283-1640 Pine Island: Mango Tango Tropicals 5371 Stringfellow Rd. St. James City, FL Ph: 239-283-1900 Fort Myers: ECHO Edible Landscape Nursery 17430 Durrance Rd. No. Ft. Myers, FL 33917 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Mystery passionfruit Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 08:06:21 -0700 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Tom Hi Tom, Read your note to RFNO about the passionfruit you picked up in Vancouver (British Columbia I suppose). Sounds like Passifora ligularis to me. It's not that easy to grow: it's picky about its sun exposure, soil temperature and air temperature. As far as I know it is not self fruitful, but that may not be true. If you have sereral seedlings growing, then they could cross pollinate each other, but you'll probably have to be the "bee". Good luck, Bob Holzinger ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Champagne Mango Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 21:53:59 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: "Hallin, Max" I'm not the expert. I copied an expert on this. But my guess is that the Champagne is just another Phillipine type poly-embryonic mango. Those produce several seedlings from one of their seeds. If you extract and plant the seed it will put up several sprouts. You would want to snip off all but one. Chances are that the most vigorous shoot was produced by pollination so it will not be true to the parent. All the other ones are clones that will be true to the parent. The tree will probably grow and produce here, but I don't know how sensitive it will be to various kinds of mildew and the fruit will not taste exactly the same because your climate and watering are different than wherever the commercial ones are grown. Take care. David [Another name for Champagne mango is Ataulfo - or it is at least a variation of Ataulfo. -Leo] ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Champagne Mango From: Hallin, Max Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:09 PM Dear David, My wife and I were enjoying one of these awesome mangos the other night and were curious if the trees grow here in San Diego? -MH ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Fruit For Congestion Problems Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 07:48:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Permacltur@aol.com Dancy tangerine is reputed to have exactly this benefit (among those others standard to all citrus.) We have been looking, albeit haphazardly, for a Dancy source in North Central Florida, by the way. Dan Hemenway In a message dated 4/30/06 10:07:51 PM, Ed Brandon writes: Hi Leo I am looking for any fruit that would help in congestion problems I already grow about 100 rare fruits. I hope some of your people would know which would help me. Ed Brandon FL eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------------------- The protocol for our Annual Permaculture Design Course Online is atÊ Ê http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/Protocol6-13-05Word.pdfÊFor other permaculture information, go to http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.orgÊ Our 11th annual Permaculture Design Course Online begins Nov. 5, 2006.Ê We also accept late registrations to our online course cycle now underway. A list by topic of all Yankee Permaculture titles also may be found at http://csf.colorado.edu/perma/ypc_catalog.htmlÊ Ê ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jaboticaba Date: Sat, 06 May 2006 22:19:14 -0700 (PDT) From: phil hamilton Where could one find to purchase any of the varieies of jaboticaba like Branca Paulista Sabara OR Ponhema ?? I have a regular Jaboticaba from seed which is appx 4 years old, but am tired of waiting for it to fruit. Thanks in advance Phil Hamilton Leander, Texas ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of CRFG Date: Sat, 13 May 2006 20:04:33 -0700 From: Leo Manuel The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of CRFG April Meeting-The program for the April meeting was a presentation on Ethno-Botany by Carl Hansen. Carl summarized the work of the giants in the field including: Richard Evans Schultes (the pioneer in this field), Wade Davis, Dr. Andrew Weil, and Paul Cox all students of Schultes. He then described work he had done for the Dept. of Homeland security in the collection extracts from plants available in Hawaii for laboratory evaluation to determine their efficacy in combating bacteria used in biological warfare. He then discussed the medicinal properties of plants found in Southern California, attending members also shared their knowledge in this area in the discussion that followed. His handout also listed these web resources. 1. Dr. Duke database http://www.ars-grin.gov./duke/ethnobot.html 2. Native American Ethnobotany 3. Fruits of Warm Climates< http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton.index/html> 4. Jepson manual of California flowering plants http://ucjeps.berkley.edu/interchange/I_treat_indexes.html MAY MEETING- There will be NO Meeting Friday May 19. Saturday May 20 we will tour the California Tropical Fruit Nursery. This is a large nursery with a wide selection of subtropical fruit trees. They are located at 2081 Elevado Road in Vista. The tour is at 10 am, their parking is extremely limited so we will meet in the parking lot at the SE corner of East Vista Way and Warmlands at 9:45 am and carpool from there. June Meeting- We will meet June16 at 7 PM in Room T402, bldg T400. Vincent Lazaneo will speak on 'Citrus Pests' including DIAPREPES root weevil (a pest new to San Diego County. Harry Nickerson NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passionfruit in Ukraine? (Former USSR) Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 14:25:20 +0300 From: Igor Lyannoy Hello Leo! I found your e-mail through rarefruit news online. Are you still growing edible Passiflora? If so, which? Best regards, Igor Lyannoy - Ukraine <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: To Bag a Bad Beetle, Researchers Tap Forensic Science Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 09:21:16 -0400 From: ARS News Service Tracking the elusive Asian longhorned beetle (ALB) could soon get a whole lot easier--and weirder. Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists have developed a novel "fingerprinting" tool that relies on analyzing, of all things, the invasive beetle's droppings to help give it away. According to ARS insect geneticist Wayne Hunter, what's so telling about the insect's "frass," is that it has a genetic signature that's totally unique to the beetle. Hunter works in the agency's Subtropical Insects Research Unit at Fort Pierce, Fla. So Hunter, with help from ARS insect behaviorist Michael T. Smith, developed genetic markers that can be used to screen frass found on trees known to attract ALB. If a sample matches the insect's established genetic profile, beetle hunters will know they've got a potential infestation on their hands. Two things make the ALB one of the country's most "wanted" invasives. First, its ravenous appetite for hardwoods--like maple, elm and birch--threatens forests and tree-lined neighborhoods across the East. Second, a quiet killer, the beetle inflicts its greatest damage while hidden deep inside trees. Immature ALBs create elaborate tunnels while feeding there, weakening trees until they finally snap in half or must be cut down. Adding to the ALB control arsenal, Smith has also developed a method for controlling the alien insect. Smith, who works in the ARS Beneficial Insects Introduction Research Unit at Newark, Del., has recently discovered that an insecticide, already in use against other insect pests, is practically 100 percent effective against ALB. Smith's findings show that the chemical--a pyrethroid called Demand--can knock down adult beetles in just minutes. Using the insecticide as a fast-acting detector, beetle-hunting crews could simply spray trees suspected of harboring the insects and wait for the bugs to fall. Now, crews must climb trees one by one and scrutinize bark for the faintest signs of ALB activity. Read more about the research in the current issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/may06/beetle0506.htm ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Seed-Rotting Microbes Sought to Battle Weeds Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 09:46:12 -0400 From: ARS News Service New, integrated approaches to battling annual broadleaf weeds may enlist beneficial soil microbes that ÒhitÓ the pesky plants where it hurts--their seed banks. These banks are reserves of thousands, even millions, of weed seeds that lie dormant beneath the soil awaiting favorable conditions to germinate, according to Joanne Chee-Sanford, a microbiologist with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) in Urbana, Ill. Since 2002, Chee-Sanford has been piecing together the conditions under which certain fungi and bacteria will cause decay in dormant weed seeds, killing them or diminishing their fitness. Classical biological control would call for unleashing the microbes onto a targeted weed to fight it, but Chee-Sanford has a slightly different tactic in mind. Rather than apply microbes as biological control agents, she envisions bolstering the activity of microbes that already occur in the soils naturally, possibly using an amendment of some kind. The problem is, seedbank soils are home to many microbial species with different ecological roles to fill, notes Chee-Sanford, with the ARS Invasive Weed Management Research Unit. Some only eat carbon and other nutrients exuded in the soil by seeds, while others use means such as powerful enzymes to breach the seed, steal its nutrients and cause decay. Sometimes, seed decay is a multimicrobe effort. In one study, for example, 99 percent of velvetleaf seeds underwent microbial decay after three months, particularly when the seeds were the only carbon available as food. The prime decay agents--Bacteroidetes and Proteobacteria, found in many soils--are known to degrade natural seed polymers. But Chee-Sanford is still trying to ascertain whether they were the initial cause of the seeds' decay, or mere contributors. Her efforts are part of a broader program within the Urbana unit to furnish midwestern farmers with new weed-management systems that integrate biological, chemical, cultural and mechanical control methods. Read more about the research in the May 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/may06/weeds0506.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of AgricultureÕs chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200605B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - June 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200606A.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Have you sent to me anything that I didn't acknowledge? My Netscape (or the computer I use) sometimes loses email. Today 179 (!) messages vanished and I doubt that I can retrieve them.... It's time to get our mango grafting planned for the summer. Rootstocks should ideally be in a growing flush. Of course, if you live in south Florida, you began already. I observed one pitaya bloom bud on a G-2 (Self-fertile, red flesh.) It is the first on any of my Hylocereus plants. Brewster and Sweetheart Lychee are blooming, and hopefully will hold its fruit. Also blooming are longan and mango at our home. I'd like more feedback from you about the direction (or lack of one) that the newsletter has taken. Also, send in information about web pages especially helpful to you. Fruit interest events coming up would be good to let us know about.... Tomorrow I'm getting a tweaking on my most recently repaired knee to increase the range of motion. It's an out-patient procedure and made an immediate change in my knee's flexibility last year to the other knee. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Panama, Requests Help Francisco A. Noriega A. New Subscriber - Cayucos, CA Paul janetski New Subscriber, South Africa Wil Lemmer New Subscriber-Dicky Beach, Queensland, Australia Tony Magrathea <><><> Readers Write <><><> Hylocereus megalanthus About To Bloom? William Chow Fruit Plants Direct from Thailand Bruce Livingstone How To Grow Muscat Grapes From Cuttings & Their Survival Lisa Pettineo Re: Banana Search Amy Fernandez To: Brian Wanted: Seeds of Passiflora vitifolia Igor Lyannoy RE: Passionfruit Igor Lyannoy Re: Utah Sweet Variety of Pomegranate "david.crfg-sd" To: "Dr. Barry Simmons" New Tropical Fruit Book Available fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Please Help Me Find Otaheite Gooseberry Fruit Trees Timnovida@aol.com Cool Season Fruit? Barbara Banks Re: Phil Hamilton's request for named Jaboticaba Otto Tonti RE: Champagne Mango "Hallin, Max" <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Potassium Chlorate and Longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: "Laurie (Hawai) Lee" <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Panama, Requests Help Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 09:27:02 -0600 From: Francisco A. Noriega A. I have few Avocado, Papaya, Guanabana, Banana (finger), Coconut, Mara–on (Cashew), Mango. I also have a young Carambola tree, seeds I bought in Costa Rica but I don't know exactly what could it be. Can you tell me where can I find info on how to grow rare fruits by type? Best regards Francisco A. Noriega A. Panama, PANAMA 8120509 mailto:p3panama@gmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Cayucos, CA Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 15:22:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul janetski Hi! My name is Paul Janetski and I live in Cayucos, CA. I have quite a few fruit trees, but the rare ones are my cherimoya trees and macadamia nut trees. I would like to grow some white sapote and passion fruit. Please add me to your online newsletter. You may send it to this email address. Thank you and happy growing! Paul ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, South Africa Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:58:50 +0300 From: Wil Lemmer Hi My name is Wil Lemmer and I live in South Africa. Currently I am in the middle of the Saudi Arabian desert where I am managing fruit orchards. It is mainly stone fruit but we have some table grapes and figs as well. At home in South Africa I am playing around with some indigenous fruits like the kei apple (Dovyalis) and numnum (Carissa). Very interested in all kinds of fruit so nothing in particular that I want to grow for now. Later might be a different story. regards Wil lemmer ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Dicky Beach, Queensland, Australia Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:58:41 +1000 From: Tony Magrathea I am Tony Magrathea, in Dicky Beach, Queensland, Australia What I'm growing: Lady Finger Bananas - Fruiting; Carambola - Fruiting; Passionfruit - Fruiting; Low Chill Nectarine - Fruiting; Sweetsop; Soursop; Mango; Lychee; Longan; Loquat; Passionfruit; Black Mulberry; Monstera; Kafir Lime; Orange - Navel; Lemon-Myer; Bush Lemon; Ice Cream Bean; Paw Paw (Papaya)-Red Fruited; Cashew; Chocolate Pudding Fruit; Theobroma Cacao; Feijoa; Kumquat; Mangosteen; Olive; Ceylon Spinach (Not A Ture Fruit - But A Food Vine); Casabanana; Senegal Cherry; Jabacotiba; Midyim Berry; Lilipili - Several Varieties; Cape Gooseberry A lot of these trees and shrubs have been grown from seed - so some are a few years off production because the garden has only been a productive garden for a bit over two years. We have a terrible problem with fruit fly so everything gets bagged or covered in a fly screen sleeve to try and stop the little menaces. We encourage the birdlife and reptiles by growing blossom trees and covering the ground in thick mulch - Our latest bit of wild life have been barking owls and antechinus. I love to try the true tropicals in my sub-tropical garden and it will be interesting to see how the cashew and cacao end up. <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Hylocereus megalanthus About To Bloom? Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 20:55:49 -0700 From: William Chow Hi Leo, The plant you gave me a while back has 30 reddish fuzz balls. Now there is a reddish flower that appears at the end of the fuzz ball. It looks like if the flower will set fruit, the fuzz ball will swell up into a fruit. Do you think this plant will bear a fruit after Flowering? [Selenicereus megalanthus (pitaya plant) has very large flowers, but I'm not sure about the fruit quality. -Leo] I planted a Valencia Pride mango and a Fuyu persimmon in the ground. The plants are slowly going in the ground. The dirt here is hardened sand. When it gets dry, it is almost like a weak concrete. Happy Mother's Day! Regards, William, in Del Mar, California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fruit Plants Direct from Thailand Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 03:41:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Bruce Livingstone Hello everyone, Many of you might remember my web site, "Santol's Tropical Fruit Home Page." Many of you also know I am now retired and live in Thailand. Having lived in Thailand now for two years (I can't believe it's already been that long) I now have access to a great many of the best of the Thai cultivars. I am perfectly willing to acquire any fruit plants and/or seeds you wish to have and ship them to you. If you are interested, please feel free to contact me at my new E-mail address: mailto:santol321@yahoo.com. For those of you I knew personally, I miss you. Best regards, Bruce Livingston ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Grow Muscat Grapes From Cuttings & Their Survival Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 16:08:31 -0400 From: Lisa Pettineo Hi Leo, My dad is going to try to grow some Muscat grapes from stem cuttings I gave him. The cuttings are making leaves and roots after he placed them in some water for a few weeks. The grapes are soooo delicious, and only available once a year from Chile, I want to make sure that after he plants them, they do not die. What kind of sun (full, partial, etc) and watering schedule to you recommend? I have killed many a plant with overzealous watering habits. Also, can he get them going in Miracle Grow soil? Also, do they need an overhead trellis or a trellis against the wall? We are in Ft Lauderdale, Florida/ Zone 10 growing area Thanks in advance for your information, I read your newsletter all the time. Best regards, Lisa Pettineo mailto:lisap@aonea.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Banana Search Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 22:06:17 -0700 From: Amy Fernandez To: Brian Hello Brian I have bought different types of bananas from http://www.stokestropicals.com/Banana_Plants_C41.cfm And have been very happy with what theyÕve sent. Amy In So. Calif ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Wanted: Seeds of Passiflora vitifolia Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 12:50:57 +0300 From: Igor Lyannoy Hi Leo, I am particularly looking for Passiflora vitifolia. If you could help locate a source for a few seeds, I'd be very grateful. Best regards, Igor Lyannoy - Ukraine ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Passionfruit Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 10:46:27 +0300 From: Igor Lyannoy Hello Leo, I am looking for P.vitifolia X P.vitifoilia ONLY! I have checked the links below, but none of them seem to be a guaranteed source for those. Guess I need to try locating a nursery that sells rooted plants. Best regards, Igor Lyannoy -----Original Message----- From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 6:04 PM To: Igor Lyannoy Subject: Re: Passionfruit Hi Igor The trouble with seeds for P. vitafolia is they may be a hybrid. They are not self-fertile, but will bear only if cross-pollinated with another variety. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Utah Sweet Variety of Pomegranate Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 21:10:33 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: "Dr. Barry Simmons" Hi, Barry. The Utah Sweet is distributed by the LaVerne Nursery to retail nurseries. http://www.lavernenursery.com/Home/products_deciduous.html I don't know if you can order directly. Probably you would need to have your local nursery order the trees for you. I'm copying Richard Ashton on this as well as a rare fruit online newsletter. To subscribe to the newsletter go to rarefruit.com. Richard grows pomegranates in Texas in a climate that approaches the low end of viablility for this fruit and he can tell you a few things about varieties. I think a climate with some chill may be necessary to get optimal performance out of the Utah Sweet. I have grown it in coastal southern california and a friend has grown it 20 miles inland. We both have found the tree to be a very sluggish grower and not very fruitfull, though the fruit is good if you like the soft seeded sweeter varieties. Best of luck. David Silverstein ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Barry Simmons" To: Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 11:39 AM Subject: Utah sweet variety of pomegranate >I live in Athens, Ga. and have read your club's newsletter for some time >now. I would like to to plant the Utah Sweet variety here in north >Ga.(zone 7b) and would appreciate your help in pointing me to seller(s) of >this variety. Also, I am planning a home in Sedona, Arizona which is 4500 >feet in altitude but has hot summers and mild winters and wonder whether >the pomegranate will grow there? Thank you for your help. Barry Simmons, >847 South Milledge Avenue, Athens, Ga. 706 546 1716 bsdds@bellsouth.net > > I have had much luck growing the Fuyugaki persimmons and PawPaw trees > that were not recommended for zone 7, therefore the question as to > whether Utah Sweet pomegranates would survive here or in Sedona. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Tropical Fruit Book Available Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 03:07:36 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Hi Leo, thought your newsletter readers would be interested in finding out where they can order the excellent new book on tropical fruits: Exotic and Little Known Fruit Trees of Puerto Rico (Arboles Frutales Exoticos y Poco Conocidos en Puerto Rico) by Juan Rivero and Bryan Brunner. You can order it here: http://www.fruitlovers.com/ExoticFruitTrees.html The book is in Spanish and is 357 pages. Includes descriptions and photos of 127 species of exotic fruits. A lot of this information and photos cannot be found in other books! Photos often include not just the fruits, but also leaves, flower and seeds. Great to see some of these never before seen photos even if you do not know Spanish. Book size is 5 1/2 by 8 1/2 inches. Soft cover. Published April 2006 by the Universtiy of Puerto Rico. If you click the link above you can see the table of contents and some sample sections of the books and photos. Enjoy! Oscar Jaitt, Fruit Lover's Nursery ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Please Help Me Find Otaheite Gooseberry Fruit Trees Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 00:32:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Timnovida@aol.com Leo & Betty, Otaheite gooseberry - An elderly aunt wants to eat this childhood fruit before she passes. Can you help please. Laurie ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Cool Season Fruit? Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 22:56:32 -0700 From: Barbara Banks Does anyone know of fruit trees/plants that bear fruit in san diego county between Nov. and May? I garden in San Marcos, CA and would love to have fruit all year around like we did in Hawaii. Also, has anyone in this area tried the EZ Pick method of planting 3 to 4 trees of the same type in the same hole for successive ripening? I'm planning to do this with peaches, apricots and nectarines. Last, but not least, what are the sweetest varieties of strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries for this area? Thanks, Barbara ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Phil Hamilton's request for named Jaboticaba Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 17:14:56 -0400 From: Otto Tonti Dear Leo, I too would be interested in knowing where I might get named varieties of Jaboticaba. The one tree I have bears black fruit about an inch in diameter. I also want to encourage Phil Hamilton of Leander, Texas, to be patient with his tree. Believe me, this tree is worth the wait. Mine took eight years to fruit. The first year it fruited it produced about a pint of fruit. Last year it was tilted a bit due to hurricane Charlie. I never did get around to straightening it out, but it flowered at the end of February this year (2006) and produced about three quarts of fruit. This fruit is so good that even before it is fully ripe, it is sweet and very tasty. Unlike some tropical fruits which need time for one to acquire a taste, this fruit is perceived as delicious by everyone who tries it for the first time. Otto Tonti, Fort Myers, Florida ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Champagne Mango Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 14:16:46 -0700 From: "Hallin, Max" Hey Leo, Not sure if you remember me but I actually came to your house last spring in search of rare Pitahayas and I have to say they are growing very nicely. So thanks again for that. I am now searching for the perfect mango tree. I really like the fruit of the one mentioned below but if you have other recommendations I'd love to hear your advice. I have found tree availability an issue. Do you know of a good source? I've been to exotica up in Vista as well as Pacific Tree Farms -which incidentally is going out of business and everything is half price- but neither have much in the way of mango trees. -MH -----Original Message----- Subject: re: Champagne Mango From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:24 AM To: Hallin, Max Max, another name for Champagne mango is Ataulfo - or it is at least a variation of Ataulfo. Leo Manuel > ----- Original Message ----- > > Subject: Champagne Mango > From: Hallin, Max > Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:09 PM > > > Dear David, > > My wife and I were enjoying one of these awesome mangos the other > night and were curious if the trees grow here in San Diego? > > -MH ------------------------------------------------ Subject: San Diego Chapter Newsletter May 25, 2006 Usually Room 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park General Meeting: 7:00 Ð 7:20 pm Program: 7:20 pmÐ 8:20 pm Website: http://crfgsandiego.org Chair: David Silverstein mailto:chair@crfgsandiego.org Newsletter Editor: Richard Frost mailto:editor@crfgsandiego.org Membership! Only $13 per year! Send payment to: CRFG, San Diego Chapter c/o Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 AT THE APRIL MEETING É David Silverstein and Tom Del Hotal opened up the program with a question and answer session on Loquats (yum!). This quickly segued into TomÕs presentation on grafting. Tom began by showing live pieces of stock and scion wood and discussing the selection of wood size and graft location for a whip graft: This was followed by a 30-minute slide show detailing bark grafts and T-grafts: Interested readers can find an online tutorial at: muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06971.htm In The Garden Plant: ¥ Tropical and sub-tropical plants ¥ Bulbs such as Tuberose, Gladiolus, Watsonia, Zantedeschia, Canna, and Lilies ¥ Seeds for summer and fall vegetables Prune/Thin: ¥ Clip ends off of vines longer than five feet on squash-like plants such as cucumbers, melons, zucchini, etc. to promote new vines and maximize yields ¥ Remove (clip) fruits from pencil-thin limbs of pome and pit fruit trees ¥ Prune winter and spring blooming ornamentals that have spent their blossoms Water: ¥ In most areas, lawn-watering is now 3 minutes in the morning and 3 minutes at night, daily. Plant: ¥ Succulents and Palms Prune/Thin/Divide: ¥ Clip runners on strawberries ¥ Dead-head roses, esp. on climbers. Trim back to nearest ÒfiveÓ leaf. ¥ Divide Cymbidium Pest Management Update The state of California is currently funding an outreach program aimed at educating the public about the large quantities of pesticides being transported into our waterways and coastal environments. San Diego is a major contributor to this problem, with consumers in San Diego County alone spending over 70 million dollars per year on pesticides. More information about the outreach program can be found at www.projectcleanwater.org or your local nursery. The University of California Cooperative Extension office in San Diego (cesandiego.ucdavis.edu) has much to offer the local gardener, including up-to-date seminars on local pests. Tom Del Hotal reports from the May 9th IPM (integrated pest management) seminar that two invasive critters are making headways in our gardens: (1) the citrus root weevil, Diaprepes; and (2) the bacteria Xylella, carried by the stingless glassy-winged sharpshooter wasp. Free publications about both of these pests can be found at anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu. Note that the glassy-winged sharpshooter is commonly found in plantings of impatiens. Our battles with the citrus leaf-miner are not over. Now that the local daytime temperatures are heating up, they will become very active. The CDFA is releasing counter-organisms in known areas of infestation: this probably does not include your neighborhood. Your local nursery stocks Spinosaid Ð a fluid containing bacteria that destroys leaf-miner eggs. Note that the product label restricts you to 5 applications per season and no more than once per week. As an alternative, you might try Spinosaid once per month and Malathion (staggered by 2 weeks) once per month also during the leaf-generation season. Malathion is relatively safe on citrus, although some mandarins exhibit chlorosis-like stress from monthly applications. This is easily treated with Ironite, Kelp Extract, or any other soil conditioner that targets chlorosis. SOILS, FERTILIZERS, AND ALL THAT Good fertilization practice involves an effective balance between (1) a particular plantÕs needs, (2) the present state of the soil, and (3) the demands you wish to make of the plant. For example, a rose bush has certain basic needs, but your fertilization program might go way beyond that if you demand a huge crop of blossoms from the plant. Soil Chemistry. O.K., so what about the basic needs of plants? Biologists have identified 18 minerals that are deemed essential to plant life. Among these, Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O) are supplied by air and water. The remaining minerals must be in the soil for the plant to interact with or consume. If too much of a mineral is present, the plant can suffer. In addition to the 15 minerals listed below, Silicon (Si) and Cobalt (Co) are also beneficial but not essential to most plant species. Primary minerals: these are what you see listed (by law) on packaging of fertilizers and soil conditioners, the ÒN-P-KÓ (available % nitrogen, % phosphorous, % potassium). For example, a fertilizer rated 5-3-1 contains 5% nitrogen, 3% phosphorous, and 1% potassium that can be processed by plants, plus 91% Òother stuffÓ (91% = 100% Ð (5% + 3% + 1%)). Nitrogen. (N) The most used nutrient. Stimulates growth. Nitrogen is made available by soil bacteria. A healthy, mature semi-dwarf subtropical fruit tree that bears a full crop of fruit will remove about 1 pound of nitrogen from the soil each year. Phosphorous. (P) Needed for seed, root, flower and fruit growth. Mature semi-dwarf fruit trees consume about 1/10th of a pound of phosphorous per year. Potassium. (K) Improves overall plant vigor and disease resistance. Encourages root growth and fruit quality. Regulates absorption of Calcium, Sodium and Nitrogen. Helps roots withstand compacted soils. A mature semi-dwarf subtropical fruit tree bearing a full crop will consume about 3/4 pound per year. Suppose you wish to supply a fruit tree with 1 pound of nitrogen. If your fertilizer is rated 8-6-8, then 8% or about 1/12th of each pound is nitrogen that can be processed by a plant. Consequently, you will need to feed the tree 12 pounds of that fertilizer over the year. Secondary minerals. Not always listed or present in fertilizer, but still essential for plants. Calcium. (Ca) Needed for Nitrogen uptake, cellular structure and division. Promotes root growth and strong branch structure. Magnesium. (Mg) Essential for consumption of phosphorous and chlorophyll production. Plants in the families Rosaceae (incl. pome and prunus fruits) and Rutaceae (incl. citrus) are heavy users of Mg. Sulphur. (S) Encourages plant growth and seed formation. Will increase soil acidity when present in significant amounts. Micronutrients. Needed in far less quantities than primary minerals, but necessary to maintain normal growth. Molybdenum. (Mo) Needed for protein generation. Plants in the family Leguminosae (legumes, incl. Peas, Beans, Alfalfa, and Ice Cream Bean tree) consume additional amounts for nitrogen fixation. Nickel. (Ni) Required for Nitrogen and Iron absorption, seed germination. Copper. (Cu) Essential for enzyme systems and reproductive growth. Zinc. (Zn) Regulates plant growth. Manganese. (Mn) Essential for chlorophyll production. Also activates Nitrogen uptake and promotes plant maturity. Iron. (Fe) A catalyst for the production of chlorophyll. Also essential for new growth. Boron. (B) Necessary for seed, root, and fruit development. Must be available throughout the life of the plant. Chlorine. (Cl) Enables movement of fluids in the plant. Sodium. (Na) Also enables movement of water within the plant and regulation of ion chemistry. Further, when clay is present in the soil it is beneficial to add weak carbonic acids Ð sometimes called humic acids. This will permit the many naturally occurring minerals bound in clay compounds to be liberated and flow to the plant. Note that nutrient flow is not about water flow: it is about soil chemistry. A soil conditioner is a fertilizer that puts all of the essential minerals, needed bacteria and humic acids in the soil. For example, expeller-pressed kelp extract (a liquid, not raw kelp) has an N-P-K of 0.1, 0.1, 1.5. It contains all essential minerals, B- vitamins, and of course weak carbonic acids. Kelp Extract is available from GrowMore, www.growmore.com. Both of the brand names ÒDr. EarthÓ (www.drearth.com) and ÒGro-PowerÓ (www.growpower.com) offer a granular product with an N-P-K of 3-3-3, all necessary minerals, humic acids, etc. Note again that by Òsoil conditionersÓ, we are not talking about gypsum and water percolation, but weak carbonic acids and soil chemistry. Acid or Alkaline Soil? The next piece of the picture is soil pH. This is a scale from 0 to 14 of how acidic (numbers less than 7) or how alkaline (numbers greater than 7) the soil is. As an example: weak ammonia and lye soap have pH in the range of 10-11, whereas orange juice (containing citric acid) has a pH near 4. The soil pH can be easily measured with an inexpensive probe available at many hardware and garden stores. Most of us have heard that certain plants are picky about the soil pH. For example: the Canyon maple (Acer grandidentatum) likes a pH of 8-9, grasses prefer 7 (neutral), roses and blackberries like 6.2, southern blueberries are optimal near 5.2, and northeastern cranberries desire 4.2! As the chart below shows, all this variance really has to do with the proportion of minerals the plant desires for sustenance. The most commonly used products to adjust soil pH are Dolomite Lime (to increase pH #) and Granulated Sulphur (to decrease pH #). My own experience has taught me that either one must be used with caution: it can and most likely will take a full year for the granules to take full effect. That is, if after 6 months the pH is not where you want it: wait! Adding more before the end of 12 months might (and often will) take you way past your target pH #. There are alternatives to purified lime and sulphur. To lower the pH of neutral soils to 6.2 for blackberries, boysenberries, youngberries, etc.: consider using a twice- or thrice-yearly commercial rose food that contains a small amount of sulphur; e.g., Ada PerryÕs Magic Formula, Vigoro Rose Food, or Ortho Rose Food. For blueberries, maintaining a 3-inch thick layer of peat moss and regular applications of a rose or azalea food should keep the soil pH in the desired range. To raise the pH of neutral soil to 8: try applying 1/2 gallon of wood ash (2 lbs.) per 100 square feet, once per year. Availability of soil minerals according to soil pH. Wider bars = more availability; e.g., almost 100% of molybdenum in the soil is available to plant roots at soil pH of 5.5 and higher. Methods of nutrient application. In a commercial setting, nutrients, soil conditioners, and fertilizers are applied in gas, liquid, or solid form. Suitable gases (e.g., nitrogen) can be dissolved directly into the water supply. Some liquids can be applied as a foliar spray, while others are dispersed through a ÒfertigationÓ tank Ð a container that mixes liquid into the water supply at a desired rate. Such systems are also available in 1Ð3 gallon sizes for home use; e.g., EZ-Flo tanks, www.ezfloinjection.com. Solids and of course all liquids can be applied directly to the soil or mulch where the water will contact them. A solid might be the product of a chemical factory or simply a raw organic or inorganic material such as cow manure or ground aluminum ore tailings. Solids that do not contain a soil penetrate must be cultivated into the mulch or soil. Research at UC Davis has repeatedly shown that bulk fertilizer application to fruit trees in Aug.-Sept. is far more effective than in the traditional periods of Dec.-Jan. Natural Sources of Nutrients. Some gardeners prefer raw, natural materials to supply nitrogen and other essential plant minerals. Listed below are the N-P-K of some common composted manures, guanos, plant materials and an (uncomposted) salt. The right column of the table shows the annual application rate to supply 1 pound of nitrogen to a full-size bush or semi-dwarf tree of 3 to 7 years of age: Manure, Guano, etc. N - P - K (composted) cu. ft. / yr. / tree Cow 0.2 - 0.1 - 0.2 10.5 Steer 0.7 - 0.3 - 0.4 3.5 Horse 0.7 - 0.3 - 0.6 3.5 Sheep 0.7 - 0.3 - 0.9 3.5 Sea Bird 1 - 10 - 1 0.2 Chicken 1.1 - 0.8 - 0.5 0.8 Shredded Alfalfa 2 - 0 - 3 1.5 Rabbit 2.4 - 1.4 - 0.6 1.75 Desert Bat 8 - 4 - 1 5.8 High-Nitrogen Sea Bird 13 Ð 12 - 2 0.3 Natural (NH4)2SO4 20 - 0 Ð 0 (a salt) 0.25 The (NH4)2SO4 (ammonium sulfate) is the least- costly in the short-term. It could however be very costly in the long-run if the plant does not tolerate the residue sulfides well. Both Desert Bat guano and composted Rabbit Manure have great high-nitrogen profiles, and the rabbit manure appears to be the more cost-effective of the two. For fruit trees, our goals are obviously on fruit production. In the case of semi-dwarf pit fruits, pome fruits, berries of the genus Rubus, and roses in general Ð these plants will permanently remove the following amounts of nutrients from the soil each year they bear a full crop of fruit: SEMI-DWARF EUROPEAN FRUIT TREES Mineral lbs. / plant / year consumed nitrogen (N) 0.7 Phosphorus (P) 0.1 potassium (K) 0.9 calcium 0.1 magnesium 0.04 When these minerals are not present, the plant cannot bear fruit. Examining the previous table of raw natural materials, it appears that only sheep manure plus calcium and magnesium supplements would have the required minerals in more-or-less the desired proportions. Now 3.5 cu. ft. of sheep manure is approximately two 40 lb. bags at $3 each. A soil conditioner should also be applied at least once per year to insure all eighteen essential nutrients are present. Professional Grade Fertilizers. A less bulky albeit more costly approach is to use professional grade fertilizers tailored to the needs of the plant. So instead of 80 lbs. of manure for $6 per tree per year, about 12 lbs. of a granular for about $12 per tree per year will achieve the same and often better results. Liquid fertilizers offer an even greater economy of size and distribution Ð particularly when a fertigator is used. For fruits of the Prunus and Rosaceae families, six cups of a 6-12-12 granular fertilizer every three months should be sufficient for mature semi-dwarf trees. One way to achieve this is with a half-and-half mixture of GroPower-Plus and GroPower ÒFlower and BloomÓ. A liquid fertilizer can work equally well. One example is Dyna-Gro ÒAll ProÓ (www.dynagrow. com), mixed at a 1:100 ratio once per month. Another possibility is Grow More 20-20-20 water- soluble fertilizer (www.growmore.com). Using an application rate of 5 lbs. per tree per year to obtain 1 lb. of nitrogen per year, the cost is equivalent to most high-grade granulars but can be easier to apply. Citrus, avocados, and other subtropical fruits have different requirements than the more common fruits of the northern latitudes. In particular, the nitrogen requirements are higher, the phosphorus requirements lower, the iron, manganese, and zinc requirements higher, and often little or no stimulation is needed to flower and bloom. A quarterly application of a granular citrus-avocado food (NPK near 8-6-8) will meet the fruiting needs of almost all subtropicals. Alternately, a liquid tropical plant formula such as Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro (NPK 9-3-6) or water-soluble Grow More 30-10-10 will also suffice. Watering. Nearly all plants profit from deep, infrequent watering Ð only once or twice per week. Some exceptions are plants with very short roots such as grasses (3 min. twice per day, morning and night in 80¡ weather), and botanicals from high-humidity climates. Full size peach trees and other European fruits grown commercially in CaliforniaÕs central valley are provided about 300 gallons per week per tree, but in well-draining soil. Citrus and other subtropical fruits are given twice that amount. For backyard orchard culture in closely spaced plantings and mixtures involving clay soils, 1/3 of those amounts are recommended. Soil Mechanics. The physical composition of a soil and how materials flow through it is called soil mechanics. Putting aquatic plants aside, there are few plant varieties that will tolerate having their roots sit in water-logged soil. Thus, soil mechanics is mostly about drainage. Ask your local nursery expert how to plant a bush or fruit tree from a 5-10 gallon pot into the ground, and they will likely tell you: dig a large hole and if it is not on a slope or otherwise doesnÕt drain well, then dig a Òfrench drainÓ so that excess water will drain off somewhere else. When considering how much excess water there might be, remember the heavy rains of 2005. Now what to put in that hole? First, take the material excavated from the hole and remove all the rocks larger than a golf ball. Ideally, you should have enough material left to fill half the volume of the hole. If you have more material than that, then put aside the excess. If you have less Ð which is often the case, then compensate by adding washed or rinsed coarse sand. Bulk coarse sand often needs rinsing because it contains salt. ÒFinish and Joint SandÓ for setting walkway pavers is sometimes salt-free. Use an inexpensive salt test kit if unsure. O.K., now the other half volume of the hole is plant- dependent. For most outdoor full-sun palms and other plants that donÕt tolerate moist soil for extended periods of time (e.g., many California natives), use a palm & citrus planting mix such as the one offered by Whitney Farms (www.whitneyfarms.com), or the one offered by your local bulk soil supplier. For plants that do want moisture retention, choose a planting mix that contains peat Ð such as Dr. Earth Planting Mix or Sunshine All-Purpose Planting Mix (www.sungro.com). Whatever your needs, be sure to mix it well before placing it back in the hole. How big should the hole be? In clay soil, the larger the hole the faster a young tree will develop. Ideally, this means about a cubic yard (27 cubic feet, or 202 gallons). Commercially this is done with a tractor. In a suburban yard, the same approach can be taken with a compact Bobcat, Caterpillar, or John Deere excavator. The approach for pot & tub culture is similar. If you are only going to re-pot for a year or so before placing the plant in your garden, then you should follow exactly the recipe above, using soil from the target location in your garden. For permanent pot culture, a good recipe is: 1/3 rinsed coarse sand (see discussion above), 1/3 rinsed pumice Ð about 3/8Ó size, and 1/3 plant-dependent planting mix. For plants that like to drain completely, rinsed Coir is an excellent choice for the final third. For most plants though, a blend of a peat-based planting mix and a small amount of earthworm castings is a better choice for the final third of the mix. A final thing to consider for container culture: pot size and shape. Shrubs and trees that primarily feed by surface roots will do well in a shallower depth (1824Ó), but wider tubs. Those that attempt to put down deep root systems, including pit fruits and coffee do better in standard 100-200 gallon tubs. Mulch. Mulch is essential for plants that desire water retention in the soil; i.e., moist (not soggy) soil. Also, certain plants Ð avocados and evergreen oaks for example, have feeder roots right on the surface that are subject to rot when bacteria that normally lives in mulch is not present. In particular, both of these trees can be killed by continually raking away their leaf mulch. There is a happy flip side to this though: Evergreen oaks drop a portion of their older leaves each winter. Typically, this is done in excess for the needs of the tree. The enterprising gardener can find loads of dried oak leaf along roadsides, in drainage ditches, etc. in the spring. These leaves are not only good for oaks and avocados: they are a favorite food of all acid-loving plants. Many other options are available for mulch and there is a plethora of information available on generating your own. Both KelloggÕs (www.kellogggarden.com) and Whitney Farms have a long history of producing good mulch products, and the city of San Diego has all you want for free at the Miramar landfill site (www.sandiego.gov/environmental-services/). A word of caution: if you are working with a plant that likes high pH #Õs (alkaline, not acidic soil), then be aware that most commercial mulch products are acidic. You need to find one that will maintain your alkaline chemistry. Mulch should be laid out 2-3Ó thick and extend to the edge of the plant leaf canopy or 3 feet from the trunk, whichever is greater. Take care to keep mulch 6Ó or so away from the trunk of the plant as organisms in the mulch can damage the bark. Plastic edging or fine wire mesh works great for this. CALENDAR OF MEETINGS AND EVENTS OF CHAPTER INTEREST 2006 Ð The Year of the Healthful Grape Month Event or Meeting June 17 9am Ð Fruit Tree Care, Summer Pruning, & Fruit Tasting (10amÐ2pm). Walter Andersen Nursery, 3642 Enterprise Street San Diego. 619-2248271. Free Event. June 10 to July 4 Del Mar Fair,; www.sdfair.com June 22 Lychee And Longan --Growing Them And Fruiting Them In San Diego. 7pm. July 27 Grapes Ð The Ins And Outs Of Grape Growing. Special Attention To Choosing Varieties For Quality And Extended Production. 7pm. August 24 Exotic Fruit Ice Creams. We Will Be Tasting Wonderful Fruit Ice Creams From South Of The Border (The Mexico/U.S. Border). 7pm. September 2 Plant Sale! 9:30 to 4:30, place TBD. September 5Ð9 Festival Of Fruit, San Luis Obispo. www.crfg.org September 28 Room 102 Mangoes, Discussion Of Varieties Culture And Lore; followed By Mangos And Ice Cream. 7pm. October 26 Pomegranates. Discussion Of Varieties, Culture And Lore Of This Fruit, Followed By Tasting Of Some Unusual Varieties. 7pm. November 17 Friday Ð Rm 104 Winter Pruning Of Deciduous Fruit Trees. 7pm. December 15 Friday Holiday Party And Gift Exchange. 7pm. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Potassium Chlorate and Longans Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 21:30:51 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: "Laurie (Hawai) Lee" This is how we in Thailand apply potassium chlorate on the E-Daw cultivar. Please bear in mind that each cultivar reacts differently and that different location and climate also affect the effectiveness. We apply the chemical at any time of the day. But we avoid applying the chemical when it rains hard, a little rain should not matter a lot. Application: 1. Dissolve the chemical in water. For small trees, use about 300 grams per tree. 2. Pour the solution evenly on the ground around the base of the canopy. 3. Pour a little water to make sure that the ground is damp, not dry. 4. For the next three days, water the ground beneath the canopy. Apply just enough water to get the ground damp. 5. If the ground is damp, stop watering for the next 7 days. 6. After that, water liberally, but not so much that the ground becomes flooded. For small trees, we obtain flower within 10-15 days. If you cannot obtain potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate will work just as well, using exactly the same amount. No, it does not work on lychee. I am sure that potassium chlorate and sodium chlorate will work in Hawaii, but you will have to conduct a few trials and errors before you obtain a satisfactory result. The various important factors are not the same in Hawaii as in Thailand. However, the chemical does not work well in cold climate. The Chinese have not been able to obtain a satisfactory result using the chemical. Have Fun! Sainarong ----- Original Message ----- From: Timnovida@aol.com Subject: Potassium Chlorate To: sainaron@loxinfo.co.th Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:13 PM Aloha, I need some information for making my longan bear fruit. Where do I purchase potassium chlorate and how much do I put on my tree? It is 10' tall and only had fruit 7 years ago. Will the same chemical work on my lychee tree? Thanks. Laurie Lee <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200606A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - June 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200606B.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Suddenly there are lots of bloom buds on my pitayas, and one actually bloomed, on June 13. It was Paul Thomson's hybrid, 8-S. Other buds will not open for a few weeks, such as Paul Thomson's G-1, G-2, G-3, #7, 6-S, Selenicereus grandiflorus, a red-flowered 'Connie Mayer' and a plant that grew from a cutting from eBay. It was supposed to be self-fertile and with red flesh. Some of the mangoes that performed very well last year have not had any hint of blooming. Possible they are alternate- bearing? 'Sensation' mango may set fruit this year for the first time. Are you familiar with it? Please write about your fruiting hits or misses. My apricot crop was very small. It may have been raining during the bloom period. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber-Tustin, CA-Interested In Cherimoyas James Wroble New Subscriber, Florida, Seeks Durian Seeds, Pinwing Fruit Info. Bal <><><> Readers Write <><><> What Nibbles Young Avocado Leaves And Fruit? N Sterman Pitaya Flowers-Yours And Mine Allen Sylvester re: Passiflora vitifolia seeds christopher.marshall@att.net To: igor.lyannoy@cetab.dp.ua Champagne = Ataulfo Maurice Kong How To Roast Macadamia Nuts Cheryl Noble CRFG San Diego City Chapter Newsletter - June Leo Manuel CRFG N. County June Newsletter Leo Manuel <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Fw: Pitaya disease in Malaysia Sainarong Siripen Rasananda <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Cocoa Plants Find a Friend in Fungi ARS News Service Biobased Nursery Pots ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber-Tustin, CA-Interested In Cherimoyas Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 13:10:15 -0700 From: James Wroble My name is James Wroble I live in Southern California. Tustin, CA in South Orange County to be exact. My personal e-mail address is jhwroble@yahoo.com My work e-mail is james@qualitycertified.org Either e-mail address is fine. I currently have a grape vine, small pineapple plant and there is a lemon tree out back. I grow tomatoes every year too. We use to have a dwarf banana plant, but it did not make it. Not enough sun and no fertilizer probably didnÕt help. Had a lime tree a long time ago, but it is long gone. IÕm really interested in this Cherimoya tree. It sounds too good to be true. Grows well in my area, it is hearty, only grows 20-30 feet and smells good too. I would like any ideas or information on this tree. Anything good or negative is welcome. James Wroble ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, Seeks Durian Seeds, Pinwing Fruit Info. Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 16:45:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Bal I am looking for seeds of the Durian fruit which I would like to introduce to Trinidad. My name is Balgrim Ragoonanan, and I live in Florida. My phone is 954 979 0127. Presently I have guava, mangoes, avacado, and carambulay. My email address is BRagoonanan@Aol.Com Do you know the Pinwing fruit and do you have a picture of it? If so I would like to see what it looks like. Thanks, Bal Ragoonanan <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: What Nibbles Young Avocado Leaves And Fruit? Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 08:35:56 -0700 From: N Sterman Leo - that sounds incredibly frustrating - a gentle suggestion - maybe it is time to switch from Netscape...? What eats the young leaves and forming fruit of avocado? There were fruit clusters a week ago and today, they are vanished. nibbled to a nub. And the new soft leaves are now just the lower halves, the upper halves have been eaten off. Nan > Have you sent to me anything that I didn't acknowledge? > My Netscape (or the computer I use) sometimes loses > email. Today 179 (!) messages vanished and I doubt > that I can retrieve them.... ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pitaya Flowers-Yours And Mine Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 20:58:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Allen Sylvester Hello Leo, That cool weather Southern California has been having must be slowing your plants down. We had a very warm April and a weird winter, variously record cold and heat. I had the first flower buds appear before April 7 and bloom on May 1 on Rixford. G-2 had buds by April 9 and the first flower on May 2. On May 5 there were visible buds on QPP, Rixford, G-2, 3-S, 7-S and 9-S. I have selfed and crossed among them as they bloomed, in various combinations and all the buds that actually flowered have set fruits, so far. About 9 so far. Selenicereus grandiflora showed buds on May 7 and the first flower opened tonight. I reciprocally crossed it with Rixford, which is the only other flower open. The plants are growing like crazy. I think I may have given them too much nitrogen, but the little weeds in a few of the pots were usually yellowish, which I was using as an indicator for adjusting fertilizers. Allen Baton Rouge, LA Thanks for the work you do on RFNO. I had a repeat hernia operation on the 18th, so I am also in recovery. Things are going fine. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: re: Passiflora vitifolia seeds Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 14:27:00 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net To: igor.lyannoy@cetab.dp.ua Dear Igor, Consider joining Passiflora Society International. They have a seed bank, which offers seeds of quite a few species of Passifloras, edible and ornamental. The international seed bank is in the Netherlands and run by Cor Laurens. Here's their address: Passiflora Society International c/o Butterfly World 3600 Sample Road Coconut Creek, FL USA 33073 Or they can be emailed at info@passiflora.org. Hope the information is useful to you. And I would echo Leo's comment, P. vitifolia requires cross pollination to set fruit. Not self-compatible. Chri Marshall Tucson, Arizona, USA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Champagne = Ataulfo Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 13:34:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Maurice Kong Hi Leo: I share your opinion that the Champagne may be a variation of the Ataulfo. I bought a few Champagne mangoes a few days ago in San Francisco with the belief it was the same and was disappointed to find it was just like any good tasting mango. Having evaluated many mangoes in my time and I can close my eyes and can identify Autolfo's unique flavor. Polyembrionic mangoes usually have to shoots,the dominant one which most people would plant is similar but not always exactly as the parent. Perhaps this is the story of the Champagne. Maurice -----Original Message----- Subject: re: Champagne Mango From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:24 AM To: Hallin, Max > Max, another name for Champagne mango is Ataulfo - or it is at > least a variation of Ataulfo. > > Leo Manuel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Roast Macadamia Nuts Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 16:33:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Cheryl Noble I have a nice new crop of macadamias and a good piston-type nutcracker. They are good raw but I'd like to roast some. Anybody know how hot and how long to bake them? Cheryl [If they are freshly harvested, I would put them in an oven at its lowest setting and leave overnight - or until the nuts will rattle around in the shell when shaken. Crack one or two to see if they are dry enough. It may take several days. You may prefer to air-dry them for several days first, or put them in a dehydrator. I find that the taste of freshly harvested macadamia nuts us similar to coconut, and quite different after it's toasted and crunchy. Anyone have a more scientific method to suggest? -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG San Diego City Chapter Newsletter - June Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 08:14:02 -0700 From: Leo Manuel June 25, Room 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park General Meeting: 7:00 Ð 7:20 pm Program: 7:20 pmÐ 8:20 pm Lychee And Longan Fruit Tasting/Break: 8:20 Ð 8:50 pm Opportunity Drawing: 8:50 pm Website: http://crfgsandiego.org Newsletter Editor: Richard Frost editor@crfgsandiego.org Tom Del Hotal filled the last hour with a very interesting discussion on Blueberries, which could have easily been titled ÒBlueberries 101Ó. Tom emphasized that container and raised bed culture are the easiest way to be successful with Blueberries, using 25% cactus mix and 75% peat moss for a soil mixture. The presentation ended with a discussion of cultivars, of which the ÒSouthern High BushÓ varieties seemed the hands-down favorites. 2006 Ð The Year of the Healthful Grape June 10 to July 4 San Diego County Fair, http://www.sdfair.com/fair June 17 9am Ð Fruit Tree Care, Summer Pruning, & Fruit Tasting (10amÐ2pm). Walter Andersen Nursery, 3642 Enterprise Street San Diego. 619-224- 8271. Free Event. June 22 Lychee And Longan -- Growing Them And Fruiting Them In San Diego. 7pm. June 24 Fruit Tasting. KniffingÕs Discount Nursery. 14940 Oak Creek Road, El Cajon. 619- 561-0611. Free Event. July 27 Grapes Ð The Ins And Outs Of Grape Growing. Special Attention To Choosing Varieties For Quality And Extended Production. 7pm. August 24 Exotic Fruit Ice Creams. We Will Be Tasting Wonderful Fruit Ice Creams From South Of The Border (The Mexico/U.S. Border). 7pm. September 2 Plant Sale! 9:30 to 4:30, place TBD. September 5Ð9 Festival Of Fruit, San Luis Obispo. http://www.crfg.org September 28 Room 102 Mangoes, Discussion Of Varieties Culture And Lore; followed By Mangos And Ice Cream. 7pm. October 26 The Avocado Ð A Presentation On Varieties And Effective Growing Techniques. 7pm. November 17 Friday Ð Rm 104 Winter Pruning Of Deciduous Fruit Trees. 7pm. December 15 Friday Holiday Party And Gift Exchange. 7pm. Membership! Only $13 per year! Join Now! Send payment to: CRFG, San Diego Chapter c/o Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG N. County June Newsletter Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 07:52:53 -0700 From: Leo Manuel The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers The San Diego County Fair will be held from June 10 thru July 4. June Meeting- We will meet June 16 at 7 PM in Room T402, bldg T400. Vincent Lazaneo will speak on 'Citrus Pests' including DIAPREPES root weevil (a pest new to San Diego County). July Meeting-This will be July 29 at Quail Gardens and is our annual Potluck, and plant sale held jointly with the San Diego Chapter. Scott Murray of the San Pasqual Academy will give a talk on their program. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $8.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30 /yr and is required. Chapter dues run from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. CRFG dues run 1 year from the date you joined. Please mail your $30 CRFG dues to the address in the Fruit Gardener. Make checks payable to CRFG. Send chapter dues to Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92008 Earlier this year your editor attended an ÒIntegrated Pest Management Community WorkshopÓ presented by University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources Cooperative Extension. I intend, as space and time permit to pass along things I learned there. There recommended method for controlling a Citrus Leaf Miner infection was to prune the infected leaves being very careful to disinfect your pruning shears after each cut. The recommended disinfecting solution was 10% Clorox bleach. I implemented this by cutting a 3Ó square hole in the side of a 1/2 gallon plastic jug with a handle I could pass my belt through. This made it very easy to dip my pruning shears after each cut. I did this on 4 young citrus trees and am happy to report it has been very effective. Citrus leaf miner infection is easy to recognize. The pest is so small that it actually eats its way through a leaf without breaking the surface on either side. This leaves a telltale sign which is a thin brown streak inside the leaf caused by excrement. Harry Nickerson CRFG San Diego North County Chapter 1815 Yettford Rd. Vista CA 92083 CRFG's website: http://www.crfg.org NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net June 16 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Vince Lanzaneo-Citrus pests July 29 11:30 AM Quail Gardens-Encinitas Annual potluck & plant sale Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside. Check calendar for current meeting details. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Fw: Pitaya disease in Malaysia Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 18:34:12 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Pitaya disease in Malaysia From: drmanmd Date: Thursday, June 01, 2006 5:57 PM To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Dear Mr Sainarong and Mr Wong...thanks for your input and I think that could be one of my problems...last few months heavy rain...almost daily...easily 80-100 mm daily...and YES my land has no proper water drainage ...that would be the first for me to correct...and pray that the weather will change into my favour very soon.. Meanwhile I would go on into extensive pruning...and i would have to use fungicide.. Thanks again Drman <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Cocoa Plants Find a Friend in Fungi Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 08:29:26 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ It's a sweet deal. Cacao trees--Nature's chocolate source--offer certain fungi a place to live and hang out. In return, the tiny tenants stand guard, ready to protect their plant-based homes from microbial attack. That's the finding of scientists with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and their colleagues, who are looking for ways to protect Theobroma cacao, known as cacao, from destructive pathogens that can ruin the plant's cherished crop of cocoa beans. In Latin America, where about one-third of the world's chocolate originates, the two most persistent cocoa spoilers are witches' broom and frosty pod rot. Right now, chemical fungicides are farmers' best defense against the diseases. But experts at the ARS Systematic Botany and Mycology Laboratory in Beltsville, Md., and their collaborators have an all-natural alternative in mind. They've found that certain fungal endophytes, which take up residence in plants, make ideal roommates capable of keeping disease-causing microbes at bay. Endophytes are fungi or bacteria that live within the nooks and crannies of living plants and trees but cause no apparent harm to their hosts. These live-in microorganisms set up shop pretty much wherever they want: in a tree's leaves, stems or trunk. Gary Samuels, a mycologist at the ARS Beltsville laboratory, is part of a team of experts who are traveling the globe in search of new and promising endophytes. He named and described one recent discovery: Trichoderma ovalisporum. Samuels' colleagues, including Harry Evans with CABI Bioscience in the United Kingdom, found the fungus growing inside a tropical woody vine in Ecuador. Laboratory and field studies show that this endophyte is effective at running off the frosty pod rot pathogen. If it continues to prove its worth, T. ovalisporum's spores could someday be applied to cacao tree flowers to help shield the plant--and its precious beans--from fungal attack. Read more about the research in the June 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jun06/matrix0606.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Biobased Nursery Pots Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 08:19:07 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ Plant pots made from farm wastes could one day be a boon to the horticultural industry--and to the environment. The Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and the Horticultural Research Institute (HRI) of the American Nursery and Landscape Association are working together to create biodegradable pots for nursery production. ARS and HRI signed a three-year cooperative research agreement to develop and test biobased nursery containers. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. HRI is a nonprofit organization based in Washington, D.C. ARS research associate Justin Barone, in the Environmental Management and Byproduct Utilization Research Unit at the Henry A. Wallace Beltsville (Md.) Agricultural Research Center, is slated to formulate the biodegradable nursery containers. He will test the suitability of agricultural byproducts such as poultry feathers, egg protein and lipid, milk and cheese protein, blood protein, animal and plant lipids, polysaccharides and plant proteins for conversion into polymeric products that can be pressed into pot shapes. Barone will also design and build a mold of standard container dimensions to match nursery industry standards. ARS horticulturist Donna Fare, in the U.S. National Arboretum's Floral and Nursery Plants Research Unit at McMinnville, Tenn., will study the effects of the new, biobased containers on plants and determine their longevity under nursery production conditions. The pots will also be tested for use in composting, during which carbon dioxide production will be monitored. The ultraviolet and weather stability of pots during storage will also be determined. ARS has granted exclusive license rights to HRI for products developed from this research. HRI will solicit funds to support the research from nursery industry companies and, later, will pass on nonexclusive rights to interested companies. This should speed delivery of the technology to a wide range of commercial entities. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200606B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> -- =============================================================== Leo Manuel http://www.rarefruit.com mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com Home Of Free Email Newsletter: Rare Fruit News Online Pitaya Fruit:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PitayaFruit/ =============================================================== <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200606B.txt <><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - July 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200607A.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> I appreciate the help from readers who write with their garden experiences, or who are answering questions others have had in recent issues. Without that boost, the newsletter is lacking in purpose and should cease to exist. Michael Zarky writes about his problems getting fruit, and Doug writes about the effects of excessive heat on fruit and plants. -Thanks! Summer's sudden appearance has caused pitaya blooms to open in abundance. Most are from red-fleshed varieties, but there are a few developing on a H. undatus, "Orton Engelhart." My reliance on drip irrigation has caused the usual problems. There are too many diverse plants on the same water cycle, with different water needs. I need to supplement water for several trees, and when there's too little, the crops will be sparse. I lack as much energy as I once had, so I spend time contemplating what to do rather than doing is.... Do write about your experiences, pass along information of new varieties, web sites, and anything that may be of interest to the rest of us. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Coffs Harbour-NSW, Australia Stephanie Campbello New Subscriber-Capistrano Beach, CA - Will Abiu Grow? JIM WAGNER New Subscriber, Texas Looking For "Degelman" Tree "Degelman, Angela" <><><> Readers Write <><><> Rare Fruit News Online - Festival of Fruit News!!! Joe Sabol Fruiting (Not!) Michael Zarky Getting Started With Longans, Pomelo, and Mangoes Bruce Brennan Leo's Mistake - CRFG Membership Annual Dues Marvnpet@aol.com Where can I buy pitaya plants in Florida? Daoud Haily Enjoying Pitaya Fruit In China! Tanner James-W15930 Trying IMO On Papaya; Maradol Papaya Question Elizabeth A Young Arizona Rare Fruits Suffer In The Heat Doug Jones <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? "Tom Waters" waterslv@yahoo.com Re: PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? "Nestlebrae.Exotics" nestlebrae.exotics@xtra.co.nz Fruiting habits litchee versus longan "luc vleeracker" lucvleeracker@yahoo.com Re: fruiting habits litchee versus longan "Greg Woolley" gregwoolley@optusnet.com.au <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Thomcord Grape: Flavorful, Attractive--and Seedless! ARS News Service Pomegranate Fruit Bars ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Coffs Harbour-NSW, Australia Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 20:20:15 +1000 From: Stephanie Campbello Hi Leo & Betty, Please include me in your online newsletter. My name is Steve Campbell & I live in a sub tropical (frost free) area, near Coffs Harbour located on the north coast of New South Wales, Australia. I live on 14 acres & for the past 6 years have been busy establishing an orchard with over 50 fruit trees & there's always room for more. The majority of trees are various varieties of citrus, eg orange, mandarin, tangor, tangelo, lemon, lime, lemonade & grapefruit. Fruit trees are avocado, mango, custard apple, black sapote, guava, brazilian cherry & blueberry. Nut trees are coffee, macadamia & pecan. Some native Aussie fruit, cedar bay cherry, midyim, tamarind, riberry & lilly pilly. Fragrant leave trees such as lemon myrtle, cinnamon myrtle, aniseed myrtle & bay tree. I'd love to grow more avocado - but have lost many to phytophthora. It breaks my heart to see an established fruiting tree suddenly die to this disease. Pests are aphids & scale, controlled with white oil & lime sulphur & the dreaded fruit fly that spoils most summer crops. I avoid pesticides where possible & use some glyphosate (eg roundup) to control weeds around the trees. Other than phytophthora problems we get strong southerly winds which can carry salt spray & occasional savage storms & wet weather that can break branches, especially if laden with fruit & even blow over trees. We (should) get dry winters & wet summers. However the past 4 or 5 years have been drought affected & the trees have struggled, except for last summer when we enjoyed fairly good rain fall. However the drought is again spreading across Australia with many towns facing dwindling water supplies & having to consider recycling sewerage. I'm able to irrigate from a dam, but this dries up most summers & also have 10,000 gallons of tank water - if we get enough rain to fill them, before having to use town water. The base of the trees are heavily mulched to help conserve moisture. I'm expanding the orchard with room to grow a dozen or so plants & am currently looking at plants that might suit the climate & location. I'll plant a couple more varieties of mango & macadamia that I don't already have growing. Some trees I'm thinking about are star apple, abiu, cherimoya, jakfruit, logan, loquat, lychee, rollinia, pitaya & poshte. Not sure at this stage what ones are suitable for this area. Hoping that your site & readers will help in the decision making process. Regards, Steve mailto:i_donquixote@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Capistrano Beach, CA - Will Abiu Grow? Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:09:26 -0700 From: JIM WAGNER Hello! I live in Capistrano Beach, California 92624. I have been collecting Rare and not-so-rare Fruit trees for about 10 years, I have collected almost everything I can get my hands on, Many too young to fruit! My yard is pretty small, so I have some space constraints. I have also killed more fruit trees than most people have planted! I just ate my 1st Black Sapote this past weekend, mixed with some Whip Cream is was like chocolate moose, very nice! It only took 8 years! The stupid thing was that I had written down that the plant was a Chico Sapodilla, then is fruited and I realized mmmmmhhh what the heck:o) So now I am looking for a Chico Sapodilla! I also would like to grow an Abiu Tree, but I don't think it will survive! Does anybody know where I can buy one or if it will Fruit in S. Cal? Cheers, Jim Wagner mailto:jim@qualspec.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Texas Looking For "Degelman" Tree Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 11:10:55 -0500 From: "Degelman, Angela" I am Angela Degelman, from Bryan, Texas (originally from Columbus, Kansas) Fruit plants and trees I am now growing are 1 apple that has never born fruit, and some MAJOR attempts at blueberry bushes Ð none successful. Some you want to grow....definitely blueberry and blackberry (bushes) but am interested in learning more about the ÒDegelman TreeÓ and how I could get one (for obvious reasons). My husband Alan Degelman and I have almost completed building a home on 10 acres just outside of Bryan, Texas. We have lots of oak trees, but are interested in planting fruit trees, some native, and some not. IÕm not sure what will grow in this area, but we are particularly interested in rare fruit trees, especially now that we know there is one called ÒDegelmanÓ. Anybody have a picture of a Degelman tree? Angela Degelman mailto:adegelman@mays.tamu.ed College Station, Texas <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Rare Fruit News Online - Festival of Fruit News!!! Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 21:12:27 -0700 From: Joe Sabol Dear Leo Thanks for the great service you provide!!!! Please pass along the good news. The annual CRFG Festival of Fruit is being hosted by the Central Coast Chapter in September 2006. We have some fantastic tours all over San Luis Obispo County on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, September 5-7. Then, on Friday morning, September 8, we all come to Cal Poly for some tours and a blueberry talk by Dr. Mark Gaskell. At 1 p.m. we have the opening session in Chumash Auditorium on the campus and have several keynote speakers including Secretary of Food and Agriculture, A.G. Kawamura. Friday evening is a very special BBQ in the arboretum. Saturday is the big day for nearly 30 vendors who will show off their wares! Saturday is also the big day for more than 20 confirmed speakers with a wide range of topics! More details can be found on the Festival Website. Registration is required and includes a free lunch on Saturday! Please see the Festival site below and make plans to be in San Luis Obispo and help us celebrate the "Year of the Healthful Grape" See: http://www.crfg-central.org/2006_Festival/festival_2006_home.htm Questions? Write Joe Sabol at Jsabol@calpoly.edu Thanks a million Leo! Joe mailto:jsabol@calpoly.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fruiting (Not!) Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 06:56:10 -0700 From: Michael Zarky Dear Leo, My apricot crop is zero. (it wasn't much last year either). The late cold rains certainly seem to be a factor. Even leaf appearance was much delayed. Peach set is poor, and leaf curl, despite spraying, is pretty bad this year. A friend's tree in Culver City, thought by experts to be "Springtime", ususally ripens fruit about May 8; it was 3 weeks later this year, which was not a surprise. My own peaches are also much delayed. Some plums and pluots are there, nothing abundant. I had some cherries last year (young tree) but nothing this year. My higher chill apples and pears usually don't come out of dormancy until about June, so I can't tell you about fruit set, but some younger apple varieties are blooming now. My Anna crop is very small; I guess I should check whether it is ripe as it usually comes in June. Citrus seem to have a good set on this year's bloom. My Jaboticaba is about to ripen. [my tree usually gives one main spring crop; I don't get the repeat crops that many do, although once in a while a very small second crop]. Here;s something I've wanted to ask about: I observe the buds gathering their strength, usually in February or March, but then if there is a cold/wet period as they are blooming, there is no set, it often appears as if the buds just withdraw back into the tree, and the tree tries again soon afterwards. That happened in fact twice this year; only on the third try did the fruit appear (by the thousands). So one year my crop appeared in early May when the blooms set successfully on the first try. I wonder if others have a similar experience? That's my report from a colder zone at the bottom of a hill in Moorpark, CA. Michael mailto:mzarky@earthlink.net > Please write about your fruiting hits or misses. My apricot crop > was very small. It may have been raining during the bloom > period. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Getting Started With Longans, Pomelo, and Mangoes Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:57:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Bruce Brennan Hello Leo, I just became a dues paying member of CRFG. Starting this summer with Longan, Pomelo, Keitt & Edward Mangos from Ed Beard, Beard Tropicals in Goleta. Bruce B mailto:bjbinsjo@yahoo.com San Jose, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Leo's Mistake - CRFG Membership Annual Dues Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 17:55:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Marvnpet@aol.com CRFG Membership is $30 a year, or three years for $87, not $13 a year. The $13 might be for chapter dues or for newsletter subscription, but certainly not for CFRG membership. Have a GRAPE DAY !!! Marve mailto:Marvnpet@aol.com > Membership! Only $13 per year! Join Now! Send payment to: > CRFG, San Diego Chapter c/o Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte > Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Where can I buy pitaya plants in Florida? Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 17:51:59 -0700 (PDT) From: daoud haily Where can I buy pitaya plants in Florida? Doud Haily mailto:haily123452003@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Enjoying Pitaya Fruit In China! Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 12:15:56 -0400 From: James Tanner -W15930 Thanks for you quick and detailed reply. I will talk with my wife and then decide what to do. Again, I appreciate your reply. I am currently on a business trip in Tianjin China and am enjoying Dragon Fruit every morning. Man, it tastes so good. Best Regards, -James mailto:James.Tanner@motorola.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Trying IMO On Papaya; Maradol Papaya Question Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 11:26:59 -0500 From: Elizabeth A Young Hello Leo, After reading the article on Indigenous Micro-Organisms by Professor Reinders that you sent out May 30, I decided to try it. We were out of town two weeks after that post was sent so it has taken me a while to get it going. Today was the first day I was able to use the IMO and I decided to try a test on several Maradol papaya plants that are ten to twelve inches tall in two gallon pots. These were started from seeds from fruit purchased at the super market. Since the article had statements regarding use by spraying the leaves or soil I am testing leaf spray only, soil spray only, leaf plus soil spray and a plant with no IMO spray. Hopefully the summer won't be so hot that I can keep up with the project and let you know later what the results are. Do you know how big the Maradol papaya plants get? They are growing in the greenhouse which has shade cloth over it so it won't get extremely hot inside, just similar to outside. Our summers are humid and in the high eighty to low one hundred degree range. It will be partially heated this winter just to keep things from freezing on the 'warm' side. I may have to keep it a little warmer than previously planned to keep the papaya alive, I don't know what the low temp. tolerance is for them. Thanks for the newsletter, though I am in Missouri (Central USA with freezing winters), I can glean a little information that is useful to me in the greenhouse and it makes for fun reading hearing what others are growing around the world. Elizabeth Young mailto:whisperyoung@juno.com [I believe that you can control the height of your papaya by removing the top tips. Maybe break off tender tips, or prune them later. Any other suggestions? -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Arizona Rare Fruits Suffer In The Heat Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 14:07:59 -0700 From: Doug Jones Here's a note on how things are going in the hot part of country. I live in Mesa Az, near Phoenix, with average daily highs consistently about 110 degrees. Last year I put 50% shade cloth over the greenhouse, but the plants got way too "leggy", so I thought I'd try something different. I put some spray over the greenhouse and took off most of the sides to try and cut down on the heat. I also put down 2-3 feet of tree trimming chips on the ground.Still gets 110. The pitahaya turned yellow and cooked, only 3 blossoms and no fruit compared to 40+ blossoms and fruit last year. Many things in pots died -probably got the sides of the pots too hot. Some banana leaves yellow and cooked. Cherimoya that I hand pollinated all fell off. Papaya and Inga bean yellowing. Avocado trees 4 years old have limb tips burned, no fruit set - had 12-15 last year. Four young avocado trees all died. Guava trees definitely more yellow and less fruit than last year. And so on. Overall things don't look so good. So, any suggestions? Do I try 30% shade cloth? The shade cloth seems to tear apart in the wind. So do I spray paint with 30% white paint like I've seen on some of the greenhouses. I thought about putting in more swamp coolers or mist systems. The mist system leaves the leaves below it all shriveled with salt build up - killed 3 cherimoyas. I stopped the 2 swamp coolers because they couldn't keep the 50' X 85' X 15' greenhouse cool. Adding 4-5 more swamp would be too expensive. So, any suggestions from anybody? Doug Jones <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? Posted by: "Tom Waters" waterslv@yahoo.com Fri Jun 16, 2006 2:53 pm (PST) Has any members grown PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla in Southern California and\or Israel? I need to know if this will grow here outdoors here in orange county, or if it should be put inside the greenhouse. Roger do you know if this will grow here in SO cal? Many thanks! -Tom Waters OC,CA Zone 10a mailto:waterslv@yahoo.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- Re: PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? Posted by: "Nestlebrae.Exotics" nestlebrae.exotics@xtra.co.nz Fri Jun 16, 2006 4:03 pm (PST) It grows for us, so you shouldn't have any problems. John D Prince & Rosemary Steele mailto:nestlebrae.exotics@xtra.co.nz http://www.helensville.co.nz/nestlebrae/ --------------------------------------------------------------------- Fruiting habits litchee versus longan Posted by: "luc vleeracker" lucvleeracker@yahoo.com Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:49 am (PST) A funny thing i noticed is that the fruit on the longans are on the more shady side of the trees and the Litchee in full sun. Since it started raining the longanfruits are visibly increasing in size - amazing how fast. Luc mailto:lucvleeracker --------------------------------------------------------------------- Re: fruiting habits litchee versus longan Posted by: "Greg Woolley" gregwoolley@optusnet.com.au Fri Jun 23, 2006 5:28 pm (PST) Hi Luc, I had a fruiting kohala longan in Perth and the vast majority of its fruits were on the shady side also. I wonder if this is the norm with longan? Cheers, Greg <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Thomcord Grape: Flavorful, Attractive--and Seedless! Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:15:35 -0400 From: ARS News Service Two of America's favorite grapes--Concord, of peanut-butter-and-jelly-sandwich fame, and Thompson Seedless, a summertime classic--are proud parents of a tasty seedless grape called Thomcord. The plump, juicy Thomcord was developed by the Agricultural Research Service's grape breeders in California. Thomcord has the blue-black skin, whitish bloom and bold flesh color of the Concord, plus a pleasing Concord-like flavor that's lightened by the sweet, mild taste of its Thompson parent. The fruit is slightly firmer than Concord. Like Thompson Seedless, Thomcord is well suited for California's sunny vineyards, according to research horticulturist David W. Ramming. He leads the grape-breeding studies at the ARS San Joaquin Valley Agricultural Sciences Center at Parlier, Calif. Thomcord was the unexpected bonus of a laboratory experiment that Ramming and technician Ronald L. Tarailo conducted in the '80s. Their intent was to hybridize, or cross, a Thompson with a Concord to answer a scientific question about a then-new procedure for breeding superior new seedless grapes. The experiment not only resolved the technical query, but also resulted in a promising plant, A29-67, that is today's Thomcord. The scientists put A29-67 through 17 years of scrutiny in California vineyards before determining in 2003 that it was ready for growers and gardeners. Already a hit at local farmers' markets during its experimental days, Thomcord may begin showing up at other venues, such as the fresh-fruit section of supermarkets, within a few years. The grape ripens in late July through mid-August. ARS' grape-breeding research in California dates back to 1923. Over the years, the research has yielded new varieties of red, white and black grapes for hobbyist and professional growers. These fruits of the California studies include some of today's best-selling seedless grapes. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pomegranate Fruit Bars Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 07:15:56 -0400 From: ARS News Service Pomegranates bursting with sweet-and-tart juice and slippery little seeds--or "pips"--may be the world's most fun-to-eat fruit. Now, thanks to a process invented by Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists in California, you can enjoy the flavor of freshly harvested pomegranates even when this fruit is out of season, or when you don't have the time to section and savor it. A new, all natural, snack-size bar captures the taste of orchard-fresh pomegranates and apples, yet slips conveniently into a child's lunch sack, a grown-up's briefcase, or a hiker's backpack for an on-the-go treat. Moist and chewy, each fat-free bar contains only about 100 calories and is rich in fiber, vitamin C and anthocyanins--natural compounds that may benefit our health. Food technologist and research leader Tara H. McHugh of the ARS Western Regional Research Center in Albany, Calif., is co-inventor of the technology used to make the "Wonderful Pomegranate FruitFast" bars from whole fruit, without the need for artificial preservatives or other additives. Flavonoid Sciences of Eastport, Mich., manufactures and markets the pomegranate-apple bars, as well as two other new flavors also made with the ARS-developed technique: Montmorency CherryFlex FruitFast Bar and Wild Blueberry IQ FruitFast bars. All are newly available online at www.FruitFast.com and at a growing number of stores. McHugh and agricultural engineer Charles C. Huxsoll of Moraga, Calif., now retired from ARS, created the food-processing approach as part of research to help find new ways to entice kids, teens and adults to eat the recommended five to nine servings a day of fruits and vegetables. It's estimated that less than 20 percent of Americans meet that guideline. The new bars are a boon for growers and processors, giving them new markets for perishable fruits. The technology allows them to make fruit into puree and concentrate that--after the busy harvest season winds down--can be processed into the all-fruit bars. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200607A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - July 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200607B.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Shamrock - A pest plant has recently begun to be around the yard. Jim Neitzel says it's shamrock. It is very difficult to eradicate, coming promptly back after being removed. How have you dealt with it? Avocado Mite? My Haas avocado has a few fruit with skin blemishes that may be due to an avocado mite. Have you had experience with this? Any recommended treatment? I hate to become a nag, but the number of letters from readers has become very low. Let me hasten to say that I very much appreciate the letters from some of you, but more would be even better! Questions you have, answers you could share from readers who have had questions, information about new varieties of fruit, and much more. I have begun to wonder if I need to do something different in the format? <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Louisiana Danny Boquet New Subscriber, Miami Shores, Florida Yvrose Valdez <><><> Readers Write <><><> Casimiroa query Barry Hicks Re: Casimiroa query Leo Manuel To: Barry Hicks My Bananas and Figs In San Diego Jon Verdick Improving Passionfruit By Hand Pollination Kathy & Peter East San Diego County Struggling To Cope With Heat Marion Brodie Passiflora ligularis "Holzinger, Bob" To: waterslv@yahoo.com 'Laie Gold' papaya in San Diego, CA Ryan <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm New Focus on an Old Fruit ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Louisiana From: Danny Boquet Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 15:37:35 -0500 I am Danny Boquet, in South Central Louisiana, USA (about 50 miles southwest of New Orleans) My wife and I purchased our current home about 3 years ago and I have been planting fruit trees and bushes as I can. So far we have 1. 22 citrus 2. 5 peaches 3. 6 plums 4. 2 pomegranates 5. 2 pineapple guavas 6. 2 jujubes 7. 2 apple 8. 3 pear 9. 1 asian pear 10. 1 plumcot 11. 1 mulberry 12. 4 muscadine 13. 1 quince 14. American persimmon 15. 7 figs 16. 3 pecan 17. 2 walnut 18. A row of blackberries (not doing well) 19. 3 loquat trees. 5. Fruit I have on my list to plant 1. Olives 2. Cherry of the Rio Grand (on the way) 3. Capulin Cherry (may have a source) 4. Che 5. Goumi 6. Paw Paw 7. Banana (may have a source) 8. Japanese persimmon 9. Maypop (have a source, just need to go dig some up) 10. Cold hardy guavas 11. Anything tasty and unusual, although I'm running out of room. We may have to take one of the horse pastures. 6. Readers may be interested to know 1. We have chickens, Guinea fowl, turkey, Lady Amherst pheasant, Nigerian Dwarf dairy goats, love birds, and cockatiels (Oh, and a dog and two cats). My favorites are the goats. 2. Our place (hobby farm?) is about 6 acres outside of Houma, LA. On one side is a small subdivision; on the other is a sugar canefield. 3. We have twin daughters going to Vandebilt Catholic high school (8th grade) and a son going to St Francis grade school (7th grade). 4. I like staying home and my wife likes camping. We usually stay home, as the children always seem to have something going on. 5. I am a mechanical engineer and my wife is a registered nurse. 6. As soon as the shed is finished (still need to do plumbing and build bathroom), I would like to start home winemaking. Last year we made fig wine (excellent). I also have an interest in knifemaking and hope to start soon. Danny D. Boquet mailto:dboquet@charter.net Design Engineer ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Miami Shores, Florida Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 14:47:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Yvrose Valdez My name is Yvrose Valdez 86 N.W. 108th St. Miami Shores, Fl 33168. Love to garden and take care of many fruits trees in my garden. Happy gardening, Yvrose Valdez mailto:yvrosevaldez@yahoo.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Casimiroa query From: Barry Hicks Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2006 06:16:06 +1000 Hello Leo, I have a query about a white sapote (Casimiroa edulis) that won't fruit. The tree is 7-8 years old and flowers and sets a crop that all drops when it is small. Any suggestions? Regards Barry Hicks mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Casimiroa query Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 14:01:07 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Barry Hicks If it is a seedling, then it isn't surprising. But if it's a grafted tree, then I'd be looking at whether the water is adequate, drainage works, not over-fertilized, etc. Let's see what the readers suggest. Leo mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Bananas and Figs In San Diego Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 17:17:26 -0700 From: Jon Verdick Leo, Your Gluay Namwah banana has just finished fruiting, and has a wonderful texture and flavor, like so many of the Namwah types. I have also just finished a bunch of Pisang Ceylon, which I knew nothing about when I obtained it. Now, 3 years later, it is a definite winner, with many hands of half size bananas which are sweet with a nice citrusy aftertaste. Also just finished were Orinocco (which took 9-10 months to ripen and were a little pithy) and Monthan, which always makes a nice, large, sweet, very dense fruit. I am awaiting Goldfinger (always a good performer), Ebun Musak, Tomoc, Mysore and Malango. The Tomoc was from you, and looks a lot like my Lakatan, so I am very eager to try it (maybe it is related), though it has about 4-5 months to go before it ripens. Now that most of my cuttings have rooted and leafed out, I expect to add about 100 varieties of figs this year, nearly doubling my collection. If you are looking for something, let me know, as I have a good selection, but many are one or two of a kind, and will sell fast at the CRFG Chapter Plant Sale on Sept 2. I am still selling plants (mostly bananas and figs, with a few odds and ends) at the La Mesa Farmer's Markets a couple Fridays a month. If you are in the neighborhood, you should stop by and see the jungle. Jon mailto:jonv1@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Improving Passionfruit By Hand Pollination From: Kathy & Peter Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 14:00:12 -0700 (PDT) Dear Leo, I wanted to let you know that I have improved my crop of Frederick (sp?) Passionfruit by hand pollination. I read a back issue of the 'Fruit Gardener" a publication from California Rare Fruit Growers; the article was on hand pollination of passionfruit flowers to increase the fruit production. I will send you a photo of my passionfruit that have suddenly appeared. I have had this huge vine over my compost pile for around five years now. I thought that the high nitrogen levels were interfering with the fruiting of the passionfruit vine. Since i could not easily move either one of them, I was happy to get around ten or twenty fruits each year from this lovely looking plant. I go out there with a small paint brush and rub the five "do-dads" that hold the pollen, you can easily see which these are and rub it generously on the three "d0- dads" that need the pollen to fruit. These last above mentioned structures are directly above the five pollen holding structures. I cannot find the article right now, so pardon my jargon!!!! In about two weeks, low and behold, green globes, or egg shaped huge passionfruit were becoming visible where before there were none!!! Isn't it great to be a rare fruit grower? Thanks for your newsletter, I really enjoy reading it!!!! Kathy diewald, costa mesa, ca. Emails welcome!!! Pictures to follow, (my husband can add them to a future email) I just found the info on the CRFG magazine, the Fruit Gardener. It was the march and april issue from 2005, titled: "Successful Fruiting The Passifloras" page twenty. Forgive the "doo- dads" it does make it less scary to deal with doo- dads, don't you think? Attached are digital pictures of my compost pile adorned with a Fredrick passionfruit plant. It resembles an igloo! The other pictures are of my new crop of passionfruit and the method of hand pollination with an artist brush. These fruits are not only plentiful now, but the largest I had ever grown before. Kathy And Peter Diewald mailto:mccwald@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: East San Diego County Struggling To Cope With Heat From: Marion Brodie Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 09:23:24 +0000 (GMT) Hi Leo Well this heat/humidity that we are having right now in the east county is taking its toll on us! talk about lack of energy! We have put in a drip system which seems to be working really well however although bananas and semi-tropical plants are responding well, we have been a little more than disappointed with the stone fruit. Hardly much of anything this year as opposed to last year. However, we had a much milder winter no frost to speak of so am sure that's a cause [few chilling hours] We also put in a misting system for the Lychee and the fruit has really responded BUT we have had a lot of drop, did notice lots of webs on the fruit and leaves so we are supposing this is spider mites ?? We bought some bird netting for our giant Japenese persimmons too but whatever is chewing the fruit and leaves got through the bird netting [netting was too large] will have to come up with smaller netting next year Am happy to say that our White Sapote is fruiting like crazy. The tree is covered in fruit. The Cherimoya is so late this year, blossoms are very few and it leafed out late. I did not even try to pollinate A gopher got one of my Ice cream bean seedlings [they were both doing so well] so only one left. Surprisingly the two papaya which we put out in the garden last year are growing quite large and strong so hopefully we will get some fruit next year? I have two tiny fruit on my mango but not sure if they will last. It's a new tree only planted about 2 yrs ago. All in all quite a disappointing year for the stone fruit we will have lots of plums [except we don't care that much for them] the new plumcots don't taste as good as the 3 in one we had earlier [I think gopher got that too] as it died !! Its too early to tell for Chinese dates, but normally the tree is covered. Fig trees are o'k but not a whole lot of fruit. blossom on Pomegranites is sparce this year very prolific last year so this is not a surprise This year is so strange even the guavas are slow and they are normally full of fruit they blossomed late too and not as many which is a surprise. The trees are normally covered in flowers We are having quite a gopher problem right now so we are trapping none of our neighbours trap them so we get the whole neighbourhoods. Marion mailto:marionbrodie2@webtv.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passiflora ligularis From: "Holzinger, Bob" Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:37:38 -0700 To: waterslv@yahoo.com Hi Tom, Passiflora ligularis can be grown in So. California, but just remember that it likes temperatures on the cool side of sub-tropical, especially the roots. The few places I have seen it growing successfully have been near the coast. Also, like almost all passifloras, it will not survive freezing temperatures. It may be self fruitful, but I can't guarantee it. The ones I have seen fruiting have been seedlings and there may have been more than one plant in the pot/hole. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: 'Laie Gold' papaya in San Diego, CA Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 16:44:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Ryan Hello all, I am excited about a small thing, but I thought I would share the news. I worked for a while in Hawaii on a papaya farm. Our principal variety was one from a cross of 'Rainbow' and 'Kamiya' called 'Laie Gold'. The fruit is 1-2 lbs, sometimes more, with orange flesh. It is very sweet and juicy with slight mango and coconut undertones in the flavor. I didn't really by the undertone thing until I tasted one and in the aftertaste of a bite I noticed a definate coconut-like flavor. Anyway, I had some seeds sent to me from my former boss, and I have had a tree growing now for a couple of years in a pot in the shade. Not the best conditions, but it finally flowered and set some fruit at the end of last summer. I watched that green fruit hang there on the tree all winter long, as most of the leaves fell off of the plant. At one point I had to move the plant and I cradled the green fruit with a sweater and a belt to keep them from falling off. So, about 3 weeks ago, I visited the house in Santee (east county San Diego) where the papaya now resides and the fruit was turning orange! I harvested it and within the next couple of days enjoyed its soft juicy flesh. It wasnt as sweet or as flavorful as it should have been, but it has been grown in the shade under sub-optimal conditions for almost its whole life. But now I now I can get ripe fruit of this delicious variety. If eaten at the right stage (just ripe) it does not have the stinky, baby-barf flavor of Thai varieties (Khaag Dum)or others I've tasted. Thats it for now. happy growing! Ryan Jacobson mailto:somsag_98@yahoo.com San Diego, CA [Sounds great, Ryan! Let us know where we can get seeds or trees. My papaya fruit (Mexican and Thai) are seldom worth the bother. And, thanks for passing along the information! -Leo] <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: New Focus on an Old Fruit From: ARS News Service Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 09:34:07 -0400 --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ Maybe it's their dried-out skins, wrinkled from months spent in the sun. Or their lackluster brown hues, lost among the bright reds, yellows and oranges of the produce aisle. Whatever it is, dates aren't exactly flying off U.S. grocery store shelves. But Robert Krueger, a scientist with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) in Riverside, Calif., thinks we should take a cue from Middle Eastern cuisine and open our eyes, and stomachs, to these dazzling little gems. With the help of University of California (UC) colleagues, the ARS horticulturalist recently uncovered new information about the date palm, including findings on the tree's origins, its current state of diversity and how its impressive levels of antioxidants vary by cultivar. Researchers have known for a while that dates are top-scorers in terms of their phenolic compound content. Also found in red wine, phenolic compounds are powerful antioxidants, capable of shielding our bodies' delicate cellular machinery from the everyday assault of harmful free radicals. Krueger, who works at the ARS National Clonal Germplasm Repository for Citrus and Dates, and UC-Davis colleagues ran antioxidant tests on six dates commonly grown in California. It turns out that the Deglet Noor date--the kind most likely to be eaten by Americans--was their best performer. Krueger, with Egyptian researcher Ashraf El-Assar and UC-Riverside researchers led by Thomas Chao, recently completed an extensive evaluation of the genetic diversity of date palms in Egypt. Egypt is the world's largest supplier of dates, having grown them since about 3200 B.C. The scientists found that while there's much diversity among Egyptian date palms, the country's date industry may want to round out its cultivated date groves with other, genetically different cultivars. Plant diversification guards against potential disease threats and habitat loss. This research has important implications for the future of the date industry--and date palm diversity--which is centered in the Middle East. Read more about the research in the July 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jul06/dates0706.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200607B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200608A.txt ____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Significant Rain In July! It rained at our Rancho Pe–asquitos home Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. Probably not more than a total of 0.25 inch, but it dropped the temperature so that our highs have been in the 70s. The rain seemed to have been greater in our immediate neighborhood than for those who lived a few miles away. The cooler day temperature had an immediate effect of causing pitaya blooms and bloom buds on a few plants, where there had been practically none for weeks. What have you observed at your home gardens? There have been many more letters to publish in the newsletter than there have been for several months. This has caused a lifting of spirits and my sense of optimism has been restored. Oh, that it could continue.... Anyway, thanks for helping! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> None, this time <><><> Readers Write <><><> Jeff's Modesto Fruit Report Jeff Earl Gopher Purge For Gophers and Moles Amy Fernandez To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net Gophers and moles - Other Remedies Amy Fernandez To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net, LeoManuel Marvin's Pismo Beach Report of Fruit Marvnpet@aol.com Aviary Wire Baskets Stop Gophers mtnstar@ocsnet.net Hand Pollination Of Passiflora edulis (Sometimes Works) Alice Rosenthal To: mccwald@sbcglobal.net Growing Blueberies In Hot Climates Information Sought Alice Rosenthal Leo's Improving Knees Leo Manuel To: DAVE SALZER Re Casimiroa edulis (White Sapote) Kevan Snowball How To Protect Macadamia Nuts Rodents? MeeChuck3@aol.com Protecting Macadamia Nuts From Rodents Leo Manuel To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Jujubes in NW Florida (& an apple question) Bill Burson Passiflora "do-dads" & Passiflora In Missouri? Elizabeth A Young Your Passiflora In Missouri? Leo Manuel To: Elizabeth A Young Maypop Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) Leo Manuel Re: alleged "Shamrock" Rashid Patch Punica 'nana' - edible? N Sterman Punica granatum 'Nana' Leo Manuel To: "Sterman (CA), Nan" Re: Punica 'nana' edible? "david.crfg-sd" To: N Sterman My Fruit Trees This Year - Rancho Pe–asquitos Dmshuck@aol.com My Fruit AND Photos For Newsletter - Possible? Marion Brodie Questions: 1. Pepperseed White Longan 2. Pomegranate "Hays, Gary" Ornamental Banana Joel Akin Wanted: Pitaya Plant In Los Angeles Maria Giron Growing Requirements Of Cassabana Sicana Odorifera? tony & sandra Cassabanana Leo Manuel To: paradisi@aapt.net.au Passion fruit Francisco Lee To: Leo Manuel Figs David Yoder To: Jon verdick Annona Senagalensis? Oro Mango? Paul Apffel Question Of Figs And Tissue Culture Labs Wil Lemmer Emperor Lychee - How Does It Do For You? Bananaizme@aol.com Emperor Lychee - Do A Google Search Leo Manuel Health Care For Plants Edward Lin <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> July Newsletter of the San Diego North County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> None, this time <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Jeff's Modesto Fruit Report From: Jeff Earl Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:17:45 -0700 Hi All. I haven't posted in a while. Just wanted to keep you informed of the tropical fruit I have been growing in my garden - unprotected here in Modesto, Ca since 1998. (the lowest temp since 1998 is 26.6¼ F) The following trees have finished blooming for the year. All now have fruit. I have Macadamia's (25 ft tall tree), 4 kinds of tropical Guavas (lots) Cherimoya var white (lots of fruit set each year) 4 types of bananas (2 that have fruit), Lychees, Longan, Roseapple (not quite done flowering) and a single Mango var Ice Cream. All have fruit on them. Jeff mailto:jeffearl@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Gopher Purge For Gophers and Moles From: Amy Fernandez Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:21:24 -0700 To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net Marion, have you tried Gopher Purge Euphorbia Lathyrus? As the following says you do need to have a good stand. I have noticed that the mole which come from next door do not go past where the plants are, but they do get past to the lawn where there aren't any for them to pass by. Gopher Purge (sometimes called Gopher spurge) was not deliberately planted but came up on its own from a single plant that set seeds the year before.Gopher Purge naturalizes itself this way. Here the buds of the Gopher Purge will soon open to some very unusual flowers. Gopher Purge or Mole Plant contains a latex like milky sap that is found in the roots, leaves and flowers. Poinsettias are members of the same genus and contain the same kind of sticky sap which can cause skin irritation in sensitive people. This caustic substance is not a repellant but a contact irritant. The varmint must chew the roots to become ill or die. In order to protect plants from gophers or moles, a thick stand of Euphorbia is necessary. And, because it dies every two years, it is necessary to be vigilant and replant or your precious protected plant becomes exposed. Fortunately, Gopher Purge reseeds readily. Sprouting in the early spring, small plants can be easily transplanted from the ground to the desired location. Another way is Mole Med (I think GardensAlive.com sells it) or Castor oil, I read that the unrefined as it is cheaper, but I haven't found any Castor Oil May Work Against BOTH Underground Pests: Add two tablespoons of castor oil to a sprinkling can filled with a gallon of warm water, add two drops of dishwashing liquid, and sprinkle, stirring constantly, on the infested area. Whether home-made or store bought, apply when the lawn and weather are dry. If heavy rains hit, repeat a day or two after they end; otherwise, reapply once a month until you see no new tunnels. http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/euplathyrus.htm http://gurneys.com/product.asp?pn=14544&bhcd2=1153022974 http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html Amy Fernandez mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Gophers and moles - Other Remedies From: Amy Fernandez Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:28:10 -0700 To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net, LeoManuel Another recipe for Castor oil and as they are after the grubs and earthworms, GardensAlive has a nematode (http://www.gardensalive.com/product.asp?pn=2344 ) that will handle the grubs. I have tried this product on the garden area and it worked. My SIL tried it on the lawn for fleas. It will not harm the earthworms Or purchase Mole-Med, a commercially available repellent with castor oil as its active ingredient. Check out your soil for the presence of pests; if you have a lot of moles, you probably have an oversupply of grubs and bugs. Now, the formula. In your blender, whip 3 oz. of castor oil and 3 tablespoons liquid detergent. Blend till frothy. Add 8 tablespoons of water and blend again till frothy. Using a 15 gal. Ortho hose end sprayer, put 15 tablespoons of castor oil mix in jar. Fill remainder of jar with water. Attach sprayer to your hose and spray castor oil solution to the entire lawn and garden area. Apply while walking at a slow pace. After you've finished spraying,start your system and water the solution into the soil (about 20 min. to an area). Repeat when you observe new mole activity. One to two applications per year are average. Spring is the best time to apply as the ground is usually soft. Then, you better warn your neighbors they will be the benefactors of your moles. ...happy hunting! Mix up a spray of 3 parts castor oil to 1 part dish detergent; use 4 tablespoons of this concoction in a gallon of water, and soak the tunnels and the entrances. Castor oil comes in a ready-to-spray (RTU) formulation and in a dry form that can be applied with a spreader. When using the liquid form, just attach a hose to the bottle and spray your entire property. In heavy infestations, castor oil products would be used in conjunction with poison baits. Or purchase Mole-Med, a commercially available repellent with castor oil as its active ingredient. Check out your soil for the presence of pests; if you have a lot of moles, you probably have an oversupply of grubs and bugs. mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Marvin's Pismo Beach Report of Fruit From: Marvnpet@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 01:54:28 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo, I was inspired by Marion and others writing. We had an early crop of Suebelle White Sapote and soon will have another larger crop. The fruit are larger on the second crop. We had a huge crop of Babaco this year, sort a between crops now. They are very good fix as a fruit smoothie with other fruits with a Meyer lemon and honey to your taste. The Mountain Papaya fruited last fall, stayed green, the fruit has hung there all winter, spring, and one fruit has finely turned orange this week. How do we tell when it is ripe? What is the best way to eat the fruit? The Coolidge Feijoa has a bumper crop and just this week began falling. They are huge in size and taste very good. A variety of Blue Berries are set and will be ripe in a month or so. Marv Pismo Beach mailto:marvnpet@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Aviary Wire Baskets Stop Gophers From: mtnstar@ocsnet.net Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 00:23:20 -0700 Dear Leo, Please post this for those losing plants and seedlings to gophers. Try using aviary wire baskets. We have so many gophers where I live that I plant all my plants in aviary wire baskets which I make up myself. There is nothing more frustrating than pampering a plant for years only to go outside one day and find the plant has fallen over and picking it up and seeing no roots left at all. Be sure to use aviary wire and not chicken wire - chicken wire is too large and some gophers will get through it. I buy the aviary wire in a roll three foot wide and about 100 foot long at the hardware store - or a feed store may carry the wire. I have found that Home Depot and Lowe's don't carry aviary wire; they carry hardware cloth but it is too thick and harder to work with and more expensive. When cutting the wire, use gloves and eye protection and make sure you place something heavy on the ends of the wire when you are cutting it so it doesn't roll up and hit you in the face. I cut off (with a scissors) a section of aviary wire large enough to go! up both Also farmer's in the Central Valley of California now are using barn owl nesting boxes to help with gopher control. A nesting pair of barn owls can eat up to 1200 rodents in a season to feed their young. Gophers are active day and night, but especially in the very early morning before the sun rises and that is when owls are hunting. If you install a barn owl nesting box make sure you place it level on a post or in a tree at least 12 feet off the ground - not an easy feat but you will have the most success. It seems since most people build metal barns now and not wood and since lots of old snags and rotted trees are removed nesting habitat for barn owls has been greatly reduced. And if I didn't see it myself twice, I wouldn't have believed it. I have seen two great blue heron on my property each spear a gopher, one heron ate the gopher on the spot by flicking it up in the air and maneuvering it to get it down its throat just right; the other heron flew off with the gopher in it's beak, I assume taking it to feed it's young in a nest. Not rare - but my two year old Red Haven peach has a ton of peaches and they have such a beautiful color - firm and tasty too. My Buddha's hand had one fruit this past year. Ate 4 Moorpark apricots and am waiting for my Fuji apples to ripen - 10 on one tree and one on another and none on the third. Happy gardening. Linda Starr mailto:mtnstar@ocsnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Hand Pollination Of Passiflora edulis (Sometimes Works) From: Alice Rosenthal Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 08:55:57 -0700 To: mccwald@sbcglobal.net Improving Passionfruit By Hand Pollination Kathy & Peter Maybe I am an idiot but I tried this and did not see an improved fruit yield. Maybe I did it all wrong or at the wrong time. I would like to read about your successes. The good news here in Oakland, CA is my vine has taken off on an old chain link fence and it looks fabulous and has too many flowers to count. I sure hope these are naturally pollinated. The passiflora eudalis was planted just over one year ago. My first crop was about 5, the second was double that. I am hoping to get 40 to 50 fruit next yield. Alice Rosenthal mailto:alice@meta4.us ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Blueberies In Hot Climates Information Sought From: Alice Rosenthal Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 09:05:36 -0700 Hey did anybody hear the article on NPR about two weeks ago about UC agronomist Jiminez in California's central vally who is experimenting with blueberries that grow in hot climates. He also has worked with Mangos and Papayas creating hybrids excellent for California climate. I wanted to drop by on one of my many journies between Oakland and Los Angeles, CA. I Inquired with NPR's web site and they could not find the broadcast that I had heard. What I am hoping to find is Jiminez' first name - as I had a noisey baby and husband that made it impossible to hear both time I heard the broadcast. Any contact information anyone has is greatly appreciated too. Here's all the info I put into my NPR inquiry from my sent archive: Date: 7/4/2006 9:06:11 PM UC Agronomist Jimenez (not Jiminez) - grows blueberries and > other exotic fruits in central valley of CA - esp papayas and > mangos in a hoophouse which sounds like a plastic covered > quanset hut with sprinklers for humidity - also interviewed a > farmer named john from Dinuba who grows heirloom tomatoes and > sells them to people at upscale farmers markets in LA. Parlee > is 25 mile SE of Fresno. I want to contact / visit Jiminez > and would like to know his first name and phone number or > email address. [Do a Google search for "UC Agronomist Jimenez" (note spelling) to get lots of hits. -Leo] mailto:alice@meta4.us ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Leo's Improving Knees From: Leo Manuel Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 10:44:52 -0700 To: DAVE SALZER Hi Dave, My knees are much better than before surgery, but the most recently repaired one doesn't have the flexibility that I'd hoped, even after the manipulation under anesthesia. My other knee also needed the manipulation, but it improved to be just about perfect. I'll see the surgeon again tomorrow to see what he suggests. If I had to, I could get by (of course) but I'd sure like a bit more flexibility. My bending seems to stick between 105 and (at best, after working with the therapist) 120 degrees, but it slips back to the lower part almost as soon as I leave, even though I do work on it daily, with the exercycle and walking, and some of the exercises suggested. Thanks for writing! Leo DAVE SALZER wrote: > How are your knees coming along? > > I work in a physical therapy clinic out in Santee and I have > seen enough of these operations to know that get your motion > early. Painful yes but it is worth it otherwise it is alot > more suffering and less desirable with the outcome (think of > it as a credit card bill that you don't pay off- the longer > you wait the more difficult it becomes). > > Thank you for the tips > > Dave Salzer MA, ATC, PTA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re Casimiroa edulis (White Sapote) From: Kevan Snowball Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 11:06:03 -0800 Hi Leo, Barry, I have a number of varieties of Casimiroa edulis growing in the south west of Western Australia which give abundant fruit now. They were all grafted, but began fruiting at different times after planting, some even up to 5-7 years. Hence I am not surprised your one hasn't yet Barry. What variety is yours? Regards Kevan mailto:snoworry@home.it.net.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Protect Macadamia Nuts From Rodents? From: MeeChuck3@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 15:27:29 -0400 (EDT) Leo, I'm probably not the only one with this problem, maybe some of your readers can recommend a new course of action. My macadamia's fruit beautifully and set with an abundance of nuts only to have the varmint squirrels come along and gobble them up prior to harvest. The tree is about 18 feet tall so its not something I can net. Pepper spray on the nuts, 24 hour a day guards? I'm at a loss - and so are my losses with my nuts! Thanks, Steve Miciak Davis Islands, Tampa ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Protecting Macadamia Nuts From Rodents From: Leo Manuel Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 17:34:51 -0700 To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Hi Steve I believe rats were the culprits with my trees, but too late I removed all adjacent foliage from trees around, then circled the trunk of my tree with something I thought that they couldn't climb over. I tried heavy-gauge plastic, but am not sure it's slippery enough. Perhaps I will try sheet aluminum next time. To really make it difficult to get past, I could cut short vertical strips in the bottom of the metal, and bend it so that it comes upwards to make an even more likely barrier. You can get rodent bait to tempt the varments into eating it instead, or get dogs or cats or encourage owls and hawks to come around. Let me know how you succeed with whatever you try, ok? Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jujubes in NW Florida (& an apple question) From: Bill Burson Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:32:41 -0500 Hi Leo et al, I've finally stared some modest planting here North & East of Pensacola (zip=32571). We were slightly delayed by hurricanes Ivan & Dennis. Although this year we have been affected by the drought. So far we have approximately: 6 - assorted Citrus, 2 -Fejoa 6 - Wonderful Pomegranates (from cuttings) 3 - Utah Sweet Pomegranates (from cuttings) 2 - fruiting Mulberries 5 - assorted Jujube 2 - brown Turkish Figs (from cuttings) 2 - Apple 3 - Pear 4 - Peach/nectarine 3 - Plum 1 - Passion Fruit vine (Passiflora Edulus) 1 - Loquat Most stone or common fruit here are unknown varieties all seem to be doing well except: the Anna Apple that has dropped all but one (1) of her leaves & looks dormant. all of the the jujubes are all ~ 2 feet tall & a couple have a few fruit, but have just stared blooming (again!) About 45 days ago, June 1, I decided to fertilize w/ an 8/8/8 fertilizer, & watering every couple (3-4?) of days, since there is no rain. Any ideas about what is going on w/ the Jujubes & Anna Apple, should I water? Stop watering? Use a different fertilizer?, or? Bill Burson Pace, FL mailto:powaybill@mchsi.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passiflora "do-dads" & Passiflora In Missouri? From: Elizabeth A Young Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:42:14 -0500 Say Kathy, I finally figured out how to sound a little smarter with my terminology on plant parts. See if it helps you out. The female organs are usually in the center of the male parts and are the ovary (female holds the eggs here) the style (we think more of style concerns with a female), and the stigma (ma for mom) and the male parts, stamens (men- easy enough) shank - (well, I'll spare anything there), the filament (men again), anther (I think antler like a male deer has) which holds the pollen (the male has the fertilizer). Okay, everyone is laughing now but give me a break, some of us just need an extra bit of visual to be able to remember details. I have thought of starting some passifloras here but not done so yet. Would love to hear more about the fruit you get - is Frederick your only variety and how is the flavor? I have never eaten passiflora. Maybe I will someday get one started that can survive our Missouri winters in the greenhouse. I remember one growing in our front flower bed from childhood, nearly fifty years ago, but don't know the variety. It did survive the winter but likely was killed back to the roots. I vaguely remember the flower and popping the funny green fruits, never eating them. Elizabeth mailto:whisperyoung@juno.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Your Passiflora In Missouri? From: Leo Manuel Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:20:08 -0700 To: Elizabeth A Young See: http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/paqin.htm (Has lots of pictures) Grows wild in Arkansas Maypop Passionflower: /Passiflora incarnata/ *Weed Description: A herbaceous perennial vine with distinctive 3-lobed leaves and attractive flowers that my reach 6 1/2 feet or more in length. Maypop passionflower is primarily found along the edges of woods and fields, but is becoming more noticeable in many of Virginia's agronomic crops, especially where conservation tillage is practiced. Maypop passionflower is found from southern Oklahoma east to Virginia, south to Florida and west to central Texas.* *Seedlings: Cotyledons are oval, thick, and have a waxy appearance. The first true leaf is heart-shaped and also glossy. Subsequent leaves have lobes (usually 3) arising from a common point (palmately lobed leaves). Seedlings can occur but sprouts from the perennial rootstocks are much more common.* *Roots: Roots initially develop as a taproot but eventually develop a very deep perennial rootstock from which sprouts can emerge.* *Leaves: Arranged alternately along the stem, usually only slightly hairy. Individual leaves are divided into 3 (only sometimes 5) lobes that arise from a common point (palmately lobed). Leaves are approximately 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches long and wide and occur on petioles. A pair of nectar-filled glands occurs at the base of the leaf blade and the junction of the petiole.* *Stems: Stems can trail along the ground or climb on other vegetation. Stems or usually only slightly hairy and may reach 6 1/2 feet in length*. *Flowers: Solitary flowers arise from the area between stem and leaf petioles. Flowers range from 2 to 4 inches in length and are very attractive and light purple to lavender in color.* *Fruit: A relatively large (1 1/2 - 3 inches long) berry that is green or yellowish-green in color. Stepping on these berries when mature often causes a loud 'popping' sound, thus the name of this plant. Berries contain many dark brown 'dimpled' seed (reticulate seed).* *Identifying Characteristics:* *The 3-lobed leaves, vining habit, deep rootstock, and attractive flower are all characteristics that help to distinguish maypop passionflower from other weeds.* ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Maypop Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) From: Leo Manuel Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:14:45 -0700 See: http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/paqin.htm Maypop Passionflower: /Passiflora incarnata/ *Weed Description: A herbaceous perennial vine with distinctive 3-lobed leaves and attractive flowers that my reach 6 1/2 feet or more in length. Maypop passionflower is primarily found along the edges of woods and fields, but is becoming more noticeable in many of Virginia's agronomic crops, especially where conservation tillage is practiced. Maypop passionflower is found from southern Oklahoma east to Virginia, south to Florida and west to central Texas.* *Seedlings: Cotyledons are oval, thick, and have a waxy appearance. The first true leaf is heart-shaped and also glossy. Subsequent leaves have lobes (usually 3) arising from a common point (palmately lobed leaves). Seedlings can occur but sprouts from the perennial rootstocks are much more common.* *Roots: Roots initially develop as a taproot but eventually develop a very deep perennial rootstock from which sprouts can emerge.* *Leaves: Arranged alternately along the stem, usually only slightly hairy. Individual leaves are divided into 3 (only sometimes 5) lobes that arise from a common point (palmately lobed). Leaves are approximately 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches long and wide and occur on petioles. A pair of nectar-filled glands occurs at the base of the leaf blade and the junction of the petiole.* *Stems: Stems can trail along the ground or climb on other vegetation. Stems or usually only slightly hairy and may reach 6 1/2 feet in length*. *Flowers: Solitary flowers arise from the area between stem and leaf petioles. Flowers range from 2 to 4 inches in length and are very attractive and light purple to lavender in color.* *Fruit: A relatively large (1 1/2 - 3 inches long) berry that is green or yellowish-green in color. Stepping on these berries when mature often causes a loud 'popping' sound, thus the name of this plant. Berries contain many dark brown 'dimpled' seed (reticulate seed).* *Identifying Characteristics:* *The 3-lobed leaves, vining habit, deep rootstock, and attractive flower are all characteristics that help to distinguish maypop passionflower from other weeds.* ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: alleged "Shamrock" From: Rashid Patch Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:26:27 -0700 (PDT) Peace, "Shamrock" sounds like Oxalis. Clover-like leaves, tall stems with drooping yellow (or sometimes white or pinkish) flowers? Sometimes called "sour grass". Very invasive in the San Francisco Bay Area. It has a tiny, hard-shelled, dark brown bulb (or corm?) which always made me think of a very miniature shallot or "torpedo" onion - tear-drop-shaped, pointed top, 3/16 to 3/8 inch in diameter. The bulbs or corms, whichever they technically are, seem to be able to last several years, and sprout up again seasons after you thought you'd gotten rid of the stuff. It supposedly is an Old-World species introduced out here as an ornamental. It surely does grow with little or no care, but it takes over and shades out everything that can't tower far above it. It seems to bear it's small yellow flowers through most all the season that it has any green leavesat all, so it can certainly be prettier than a bare patch of ground. During the dry season it dies down completely and disappears. It's endemic in the San Francisco area. The bulbs (corms?) do seem to be destroyed by thorough composting, but any outside the hot zone of the pile would survive. When we lived in San Francisco, I used to sift all my finished compost through a 1/4 in. mesh screen box, and even then, I would have to mercilessly weed the oxalis out of new plantings. Now that we have moved more inland, we don't seem to have as much of it around. Maybe it likes the fog. Smothering with heavy cover can eventually kill it, but it survives and sprouts back up even after being buried a foot down. An impervious blanket or dense weed-block is needed, because I have seen it sprout up through a foot or more of mulch. There are varieties of oxalis with larger bulbs / corms, that get up to an inch or two in diameter, and those are edible - sometimes called "chufa" or "sedge nuts". They were a staple for some of the Native Peoples. I've never tasted them myself - I never had those varieties around. I've never tried eating the small variety, either, although I've probably sifted and thrown away tons of them over the years.The leaves are very high in oxalic acid, and I don't think they'd be safe to eat in any great quantity, although I've known a lot of children who liked to nibble on the leaves for the sour taste. Home-grown "pop-tarts". There's probably some kind of die-horribly-phospate type weed killer that would get rid of oxalis, but I've never wanted to use those sorts of chemicals, so I don't have any reccomendations for getting rid of it besides sifting the soil and rutheless weeding. I'd like to find out if there is some critter specially evolved to eat oxalis, and then I'd keep a bunch of them as pets... Good luck! Rashid Patch Pinole, California mailto:rashid_patch@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Punica 'nana' - edible? From: N Sterman Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 12:25:33 -0700 Hi guys Do you know whether punica 'nana' fruit is edible? Thanks! Nan mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Punica granatum 'Nana' From: Leo Manuel Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:04:36 -0700 To: "Sterman (CA), Nan" *See http://www.paghat.com/pomegranate.html The cultivated /Punica granatum/ 'Nana' originated as a natural dwarf variant first described in 1803. It generally grows two to four feet high & wide, rarely to six feet high. With skillful pruning it can be restricted to as little as one foot high. It is not only small in stature, but even the flowers & fruits are dwarfed. It will bear miniature fruits if grown in areas with year-round temperatures that rarely fall below 40 degrees F. Even though they are subtropical or hot-climate shrubs, they will in fact grow outdoors here in USDA Zone 8 with complete ease, doing fine in winters that don't often fall below twenty degrees. With precautions, such as planting them against the house where they'll have some residual warmth in winter, or in an enclosed area without biting winds, they can even adapt to Zone 7. They do excellently as compact leafy little shrubs even where summers are too short for them to fruit. They generally do not produce any fruit at all when grown in temperate gardens, yet ours have managed to produce a random stunted fruit now & then, though chilly autumn arrives too soon for these to greatly develop. The first photo shows one of the woody flower buds at mid August. The second photo in September shows the enlarged (inch & a half) trumpet-flower as a bright orange-red woody husk that bursts open at the end revealing deep red flower petals. If grown in warm greenhouses, or in pots that can be brought in before temperatures drop, the flowering & fruiting power will obviously increase. Where the dwarf fruits do ripen, they are no less edible than full-sized pomegranates from large shrubs or small trees. But being so small, with such thick rind & mostly seeds, the dwarf variety is realistically only an ornamental. There are other cultivars with double-flowers that produce no fruit at all, having extra petals instead of reproductive parts. There is another cultivar, the semi-dwarf "Wonderful" which reaches six to ten feet of height (half the size of the natural tree), which in sufficiently warm areas would be the one to have for the sake of both flowers & fruits large enough to be worth harvesting. It does not require fertilizer, but if one must fertilize, a little bit of slow-release once a year, in spring, is plenty. In warmer environments where it fruits heavily, the once-a-year light fertilizing will still be sufficient.* ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Punica 'nana' edible? Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 00:19:45 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: N Sterman Hi, Nan. It is not poisonous. So it is edible that way. But if my recollection serves me, the arils are small, the seeds are large and hard. So the effect is kind of dry and sour. Cute plant. But not a great fruit. Take care. David mailto:david.crfg-sd@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Fruit Trees This Year - Rancho Pe–asquitos From: Dmshuck@aol.com Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 17:20:49 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo, I had surgery a few months ago and haven't been getting on the computer. Right now my garden is taking care of itself. It looks like it is doing well. Maybe I should ignore it more often. I have a couple of white sapotes this year for the first time. The blood orange tree had several oranges. The mandarin and navel oranges produced very well this year. The peaches and nectarines did well. The Saturn peach produced a few fruits. This was the first year and the chill requirement is too high for our area but I thought I would try it anyway. Apricots and pluots were very light fruiting as well as the Asian pears. Two, Ein Schmier and Dorsett Golden out of the four apples have produced an abundance of fruit. The other two, Fuji and Sundowner are blooming. I have picked several acerola cherries and surinam cherries. The contorted Jujube has bloomed for the first time. I am looking forward to the fruit. Grapes have several bunches on the vines. Hopefully we will get to some before the critters do this year. The passion vine is attempting to take over the back yard. It is producing several passion fruits so I am letting it run a little bit. I had to stop it when it started to grow into out neighbors apple tree. Looks like the pineapple and strawberry guavas will do very well this year. Strawberries are doing very well. They started off of runners from a pot three years ago. I noticed they are sending out more runners. I didn't plan on having strawberries in that location but they seem to like it so they can stay. We have a bunch of bananas starting to ripen. Normally they ripen in December during our week long warm spell. The brush fire in PQ a couple of weeks ago was close enough to watch the flames from our house. We were very thankful it didn't jump the road. I haven't notice an increase of wildlife on our backyard like we did with the Scripps Ranch fire a few years ago. Of course that can as the fruit starts to ripen. Take care Denise San Diego mailto:Dmshuck@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Fruit AND Photos For Newsletter - Possible? From: Marion Brodie Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 21:33:37 +0000 (GMT) Dear Leo, Firstly, I had been purchasing some new passionflower vines, the ones I have at present [fruit green and purple] have been around for some years and I have lost the name/markers. However, I do remember years ago purchasing some seeds [I think Morgan Thompson] and I had the most delicious sweet purple passionfruits. I did not know much about them at the time so was just experimenting. Wish I had kept the seed label and put a marker in. This new passionflower. Passiflora N Alato-Caerulea is growing on an outside arch beside our gate. I have been purchasing them of late only for the flowers, so cannot remember if it fruits. But we will see!! Another [new] red one that I have in our sun room is climbing over an arch in there. [Passiflora 'Crimson Tears'] [these are from tiny plants which I mail order]! Last year I grew the gigantic passionflower from seed, it did well until later in the year when the cold temps killed it off. I kept that one in the sun room also. Passiflora Quadrangularis. [I was interested in the fruit as well as the lovely flowers]!! My White Sapote fruit. Unfortunately I did not get to the ripened fruit quickly enough before the birds did. Noticed earlier last week fruit was still rather hard, but with the hot weather they ripened within a couple of days. However photo enclosed showing the size. Mine blossomed/fruited late last year [Nov/Dec] so the fruit which is now ripening off is from then. The tree also blossomed very early in the Spring. And later 2nd bloom in the late Springtime again. So I have various fruit sizes from marble sized to fuller. I can ripen off in brown paper bags but I prefer to tree ripen. I can tell the difference in flavour although I know others say they can't. I am still planning on growing a Chocolate Sapote. Hopefully soon. Has anyone any thoughts or advice about the fruit and growing conditions? My White Sapote seems very happy where it is. A slightly higher elevation, loamy soil, part sun in mornings, full sun in afternoons. I only fertilize with chicken manure and have added coffee grinds. We also compost so there is lots of compost around the tree. Watering ? Deep watering approx once per week. No spraying etc., For bugs my garden is completely organic. The tree is not affected by bugs. I have never seen any! Happy gardening. Pictures - I'm not really sure if you want to do this. I hope it doesn't make it more work for you. However was thinking how to make the site possibly more interesting? And we all love looking at photos right. Let me know what you think! I normally don't send pictures so this is a first for me. Blessings, Marion mailto:marionbrodie2@webtv.net [Does anyone have an interest and the capability to store pictures for sharing with Newsletter readers? If so, could we send them to you as an attachment to email, and you could leave them available for maybe one month, or whatever time you wish? We had a RFNO Yahoo newsgroup for that purpose, but many people don't like to jump through the hoops Yahoo sets up, so few people signed up. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Questions: 1. Pepperseed White Longan 2. Pomegranate From: "Hays, Gary" Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 08:19:54 -0400 Leo, I have a couple questions if any readers have some knowledge. Excalibur nursery in Florida have a longan variety (owner says its from Vietnam) they are calling 'Pepperseed White'. Wondering if anyone might have any info about it, or what they might originally call it in Vietnam. It supposedly has a seed the size of a peppercorn. Pine Island nursery's pomegrante variety is called 'Hippolito', they say its from the Dominican Republic. I have one currently in flower, growing as they apparently do, vigorously. Wondering if anyone has grown it, their experience with it, opinion on taste, hardness of seeds, more details of its origin. What types of fruit have people experienced where the first crop or two tasted inferior to when the tree got more a year or two more mature? I'm hoping this to be the case with my Sri Kembangan carambola, which has a new crop about 2" in size. I've been slightly disappointed in its taste so far. That's all I can think of at this time, thanks for your newsletter! Gary mailto:ghays@harris.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Ornamental Banana From: Joel Akin Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 07:46:19 -0600 Hi Leo, I live here in Calgary Alberta and I recently planted some banana seeds and was told it could take up to six months to get them to germinate. In May I placed them in soil, watered the soil, then put a plastic bag around the pot and placed it in full sun in the garage. In less then a month I had two of the seeds germinate and after a week I separated them and gave one to my sister to work with. The one remaining is doing well but in a little over a month our warm weather is over and I'll have to move the banana indoors but our home doesn't have any good facing sun windows. So I have a choice between an hour of morning sun or an hour of evening sun and indirect light the rest of the time. Its been my dream to try and grow this plant but wonder if anyone has any further suggestions on lighting. Thanks for your newsletter. Joel Akin mailto:webmaster@earth-house.com Earth House www.earth-house.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Wanted: Pitaya Plant In Los Angeles From: Maria Giron Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 15:02:14 -0700 Where can I get a dragon fruit plant in Los Angeles? Thank You Maria Giron mailto:maria@packair.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Requirements Of Cassabana Sicana Odorifera? From: tony & sandra Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 10:14:53 +1000 Hi Leo I hope I'm going about this the right way - I want to ask a question of the rarefruit group - My question: What are the growing requirements of Cassabana Sicana odorifera, specifically soil and sunlight requirements. thanks Tony Magrathea mailto:paradisi@aapt.net.au Dicky Beach, Australia ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Cassabanana From: Leo Manuel Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 08:40:18 -0700 To: paradisi@aapt.net.au I found this in a Google search for "Sicana odorifera" http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/cassabanana.html Morton, J. 1987. Cassabanana. p. 444–445. In: Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton, Miami, FL. Cassabanana Sicana odorifera Naud. Cucurbita odorifera Vell. A handsome and interesting member of the Cucurbitaceae, the cassabanana, Sicana odorifera Naud. (syn. Cucurbita odorifera Vell.), is also called sikana or musk cucumber. It is known as melocotonero, calabaza de olor, calabaza melon, pérsico or alberchigo in Mexico; melocoton or melon de olor in El Salvador and Guatemala; calabaza de chila in Costa Rica; cojombro in Nicaragua; chila in Panama; pavi in Bolivia; padea, olerero, secana or upe in Peru; calabaza de Paraguay, curuba, or pepino melocoton in Colombia; cura, coroa, curua, curuba, cruatina, melon caboclo in Brazil; cajua, cagua, calabaza de Guinea in Venezuela; pepino, pepino angolo or pepino socato in Puerto Rico; cohombro in Cuba. Description The vine is perennial, herbaceous, fast-growing, heavy, requiring a strong trellis; climbing trees to 50 ft (15 m) or more by means of 4-parted tendrils equipped with adhesive discs that can adhere tightly to the smoothest surface. Young stems are hairy. The leaves are gray-hairy, rounded-cordate or rounded kidney-shaped, to 1 ft (30 cm) wide, deeply indented at the base, 3-lobed, with wavy or toothed margins, on petioles 1 1/2 to 4 3/4 in (4-12 cm) long. Flowers are white or yellow, urn-shaped, 5-lobed, solitary, the male 3/4 in (2 cm) long, the female about 2 in (5 cm) long. Renowned for its strong, sweet, agreeable, melon-like odor, the striking fruit is ellipsoid or nearly cylindrical, sometimes slightly curved; 12 to 24 in (30-60 cm) in length, 2 3/4 to 4 1/2 in (7-11.25 cm) thick, hard-shelled, orange-red, maroon, dark-purple with tinges of violet, or entirely jet-black; smooth and glossy when ripe, with firm, orange-yellow or yellow, cantaloupe-like, tough, juicy flesh, 3/4 in (2 cm) thick. In the central cavity, there is softer pulp, a soft, fleshy core, and numerous flat, oval seeds, 5/8 in (16 mm) long and 1/4 in (6 mm) wide, light-brown bordered with a dark-brown stripe, in tightly-packed rows extending the entire length of the fruit. Origin and Distribution The cassabanana is believed native to Brazil but it has been spread throughout tropical America. Historians have evidence that it was cultivated in Ecuador in pre-Hispanic times. It was first mentioned by European writers in 1658 as cultivated and popular in Peru. It is grown near sea-level in Central America but the fruit is carried to markets even up in the highlands. Venezuelans and Brazilians are partial to the vine as an ornamental, but in Cuba, Puerto Rico and Mexico it is grown for the usefulness of the fruit. In 1903, O.F. Cook saw one fruit in a market in Washington, D.C. The United States Department of Agriculture received seeds from C.A. Miller, the American Consul in Tampico, Mexico, in 1913 (S.P.I. #35136). H.M. Curran collected seeds in Brazil in 1915 (S.P.I. #41665). Wilson Popenoe introduced seeds from Guatemala in 1916 (S.P.I. #43427). The author brought seeds from Rio Piedras, Puerto Rico, to the Agricultural Research and Education Center, Homestead, in 1951. A resulting vine grew to large size but produced a single 2 ft (60 cm) fruit. Dr. John Thieret, formerly Professor of Botany at Southwestern Louisiana University, says that the Cajuns in the southern part of that state grow the cassabanana for making preserves. Verrill stated in 1937, "The fruit is now on sale in New York markets." According to Burkill, the vine was tried in the Botanic Gardens in Singapore but lived for only a short time. Wester wrote that it fruited at Lamao in the Philippines in 1916 and became heavily attacked by a destructive fly (Dacus sp.). Fenzi says that the cassabanana is grown from seeds or cuttings. A high temperature during the fruiting season is needed to assure perfect ripening. Brazilians train the vine to grow over arbors or they may plant it close to a tree. However, if it is allowed to climb too high up the tree there is the risk that it may smother and kill it. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passion fruit From: Francisco Lee Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 19:15:19 -0700 (PDT) To: Leo Manuel Hi Leo If you'll remember, last summer, my husband, daughter and I came visiting you at your home. You showed us around your interesting garden and we were awed by your so many varieties of pitahaya. Last year, before I left for California, my pithayas were blooming. Although I hand pollinated them, none of them took. This year, I positively have 1 and a few other potentials. That's true with my passion fruit. I think mine is the passiflora edulis (purple flowers). I have about a dozen of those monsters (trying to trim them after they fruited). About 9 of them gave quite a bit of fruits ( huge egg shape fruits which I attributed to my hand pollination) but one can only drink so much passion fruit juice. I'm hoping your readers can share a few good recipes using passion fruits. Thanks and warmest regards, mailto:kikoandlily@yahoo.Com Lily mailto:kikoandlily@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Figs From: David Yoder Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 07:42:08 -0500 To: Jon verdick Good morning Jon, Several months ago I started getting the Rare Fruit News Online, and in a recent one I saw that you mentioned adding 100 varieties of figs. I grew up in south MS where we had lots of figs in earlier years, but later many trees were killed by hard winters. I think most of the figs were probably Brown Turkey or Celeste, although I never really learned how to identify them. My parents had an interest in growing fruit, and planted lots of different trees over the years, but never seemed to harvest much from them. After I married and we were living in MS I became interested in growing more fruit, and became familiar with some people that were with the Southern Fruit Fellowship, and also with NAFEX. Six years ago we moved to Honduras, and I was looking forward to enjoying lots of fresh fruits here. However I soon noticed that there didn't seem to be much interest in producing much variety here in our area. We purchased a farm about 4 years ago and have been planting a lot of different fruits on it to use as a demonstrative and experimental project. We have planted about 40 varieties of citrus, as well as many bananas, lychee, longan, and other fruits, and I am always on the lookout for more fruit to add to our collection. We have three varieties of figs, Brown Turkey, Celeste, and TX Everbearing. I knew that there are quite a few varieties of figs, but I guess your letter caught my attention because I didn't realize that there were that many available. I have done quite a bit of research on some of the other fruits we have, but I would have to admit that I am pretty ignorant when it comes to figs, so I would be glad if you could help me out. Our farm is located in the mountains of west-central Honduras, and is at about 4500' elevation. We have a cool winter with drizzly rains, and then a dry season of several months, followed by a rainy season from May to October. Tangerines do well in our area, as well as Lychees, and Longans. We also have pear trees that have been producing every year, and have recently planted more low-chill fruits, such as more pears, apples, and peaches. Our temperatures are mostly between 50 - 90 deg. f. The figs we have are ripening now, which is in our rainy season. What are some other varieties of figs that you would recommend for our farm. Does the rain during production cause more problems for some types than others? I would be glad for any info you could give. Do you know of any good websites that would be helpful to check out? Would there be a chance of getting some starts from you on our next visit to the States? (I am not sure at this point when that will be) Thanks a Lot! David Yoder Rancho Beula Siguatepeque, Comayagua Honduras mailto:dsy@yoder.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Annona Senagalensis? Oro Mango? From: Paul Apffel Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 14:07:38 -0700 Leo, I hope you are well. My name is Paul Apffel, and I am a member of CRFG up here in Northern California. In July of 2005, I subscribed to your Rare Fruit newsletter. Thereafter, I changed my email address. As a result, I am no longer getting the newsletter. (I imagine you deleted me from your subscriber rolls after my email bounced back.) Can you please add me back to the subscriber rolls with my new email address? It is: athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net After looking over some back issues of the Fruit Gardener, I also had two questions that I was hoping you might be able to answer. First, I ran across an article in the August 1993 issue of the Fruit Gardener written by C.A. Schroeder who I know is/was very active in CRFG in Southern California. His article was about Annona Senagalensis and its possible benefits to the cherimoya grower. The article strongly implied that Professor Schroeder was growing A. Senagalensis, and had seeds for it. I have been searching for some time now for seeds of A. Senagalensis! I really want to grow it. I was wondering if you knew how I might contact Professor Schroeder, perhaps an email address or phone number? Or alternatively, do you know of anyone who has seeds for this in Southern California, or is growing it? Second, in another old Fruit Gardener, I saw mention of what seemed to be the fastest growing mango tree--Sherman Johnson's "Oro" tree. There was mention of other members growing mango trees from the fruit of Johnson's "Oro" tree, and also having them grow very rapidly. Do you know is the "Oro" tree still alive? And is is true, that "Oro" seedlings really did grow very rapidly? Was the fruit good? Best Wishes Always, --Paul mailto:athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net [1. A Google search for Annona senegalensis (note spelling) yields pages of hits. Here is a partial quote from one: Wild Custard Apple-Annona senegalensis (Annona chrysophylla) Small to medium sized custard apple like fruit, flavor like the custard apple but with pineapple and apricot overtones. Popular in Africa. Uses The fruit is eaten fresh. Leaves and flowers are also eaten. Plant Cultivation: Medium sized tree or shrub to 15-20ft. Grows best in low and mid-elevation tropical climates. It may grow in drier areas as long as the roots have continuous access to water. Deciduous. Origin and Distribution Widespread throughout tropical Africa, often growing in Savannah regions. Occurs from the Nile River area to South Africa. Propagation: By seed. 2. Several growers in San Diego have the Oro mango. I do. It has been erratic for me, producing more some years, and many fewer in others. Seedlings only sometimes produce a tree that bears fruit. I've had two that didn't. A friend has one that did, and grafts taken from his tree have produced some fruit for me. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Question Of Figs And Tissue Culture Labs From: Wil Lemmer Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 12:02:38 +0300 Hello Leo I am managing an 5 ha Brown Turkey fig orchard for the last 2 years. This year we had enough labour to do a winter prune and the trees responded beautifully in fruit size and regrowth However it seems like the set of the figs has been affected. Last year it just kept bearing fruit and we were harvesting till the end of August but this year it set about 6 to 10 fruit per branch and after it went back into vegative stage. It seems like we will be done with the harvest by mid August. Another thing is that we are having a much milder summer (35 to 38C) compared to last years (42 to 45C). Does anyone know anything on factors effecting fig fruit set? Also I was wondering if anyone can recommend tissue culture labs from where one can purchase rare fruit trees. Seeds are not always the best way to go and the strict quarantine laws makes it a nightmare to bring cuttings in. Regards Wil Lemmer mailto:wlemmer@cornergate.com [Do a Google search for fig tissue culture to get pages of hits. from one, I quote a small part: Propagation Fig trees have been raised from seed, even seed extracted from commercial dried fruits. Ground- or air-layering can be done satisfactorily, and rapid mass multiplication by tissue culture has been achieved in Greece, but the tree is commonly propagated by cuttings of mature wood 2 to 3 years of age, 1/2 to 3/4 in (1.25-2 cm) thick and 8 to 12 in (20-30 cm) long. Planting must be done within 24 hours but, first, the upper, slanting end of the cutting should be treated with a sealant to protect it from disease, and the lower, flat, end with a root-promoting hormone. Trees of unsatisfactory varieties can be topworked by shield- or patch-budding, or cleft- or bark-grafting. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Emperor Lychee - How Does It Do For You? From: Bananaizme@aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2006 12:42:39 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo I am curious if anyone in California is growing and having success fruiting the Emperor lychee? I have been considering this one for awhile and would like to know if others are trying it. Any comments are greatly welcomed. William Visalia Ca mailto:Bananaizme@aol.com [I have one that fruited when it was in a pot, but hasn't since I put it in the ground (not a good location.) The fruit was golf ball size and I liked the taste. Mine seems to be a dwarf, as it is less than three feet tall. Let's hear reports from other readers. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Emperor Lychee - Do A Google Search From: Leo Manuel Date: July 30, 2006 Pages of hits for Emperor Lychee if you do a Google Search. Visit http://home.cfl.rr.com/tfcnews/ Plant of the month is the Emperor Lychee. This tree is compact with a dwarf growth habit having a maximum height of about 10 foot tall. The tree is one of the few lychees that can be container-grown. The treeÕs compact growth makes it easy to cover and protect from hard freezes. The Emperor is a mountain lychee variety which is a little more cold tolerant and demands a little less water than other varieties. The tree has a beautiful red new growth flush. The tree does not grow well in the calcareous soils of South Florida but seems to do well here in our sandy soils. The fruit is very large, about the size of a golf ball and is very tasty. For years I have been searching for lychees that will fruit well under our conditions in Central Florida. To this date I have had no luck in getting a fruit set. Talking with the folks at the Brevard Rare Fruit Council about my Lychee frustrations, they indicated that Emperor and Sweet Cliff Lychees had been the two best producers for them. I immediately got an emperor from a nursery in South Florida. Two years latter I was rewarded with a nice harvest on only a small tree. Pictures of my Emperor Lychee tree and fruit can be seen at; http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tropicalfruitclub/ album?.dir=/e570&.src=ph ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Health Care For Plants Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 22:51:35 -0400 From: Edward Lin Hello friends, Thank you for contacting me. Leo, thanks for plugging away at the RFN. I know how much work it is to be the editor and publisher of a newsletter (I am involved with three, though not in horticulture) and I wish I have the time to contribute articles. IÕm lucky to get 6 hrs of sleep each day due to a heavy schedule. IÕm envious of Sainarong and wish I could have more time. Fully 1/4 to 1/3 of my time is spent on civic and charitable activities and there seems no one willing to step into my shoes if I stop, so I have to keep going, at least for the foreseeable future. I am in complete agreement with Sainarong on the principles of health, be it for plant, animal or humans. While I do not take great care of myself, I make rounds on my trees the way I would on patients and I nip diseases in the bud. All branches are pruned at the right angle and place with a sharp saw to obtain a clean smooth wound which I then seal off with a coat of latex paint. Each tree receives care appropriate for their particular stage of growth and development. As a result my trees generally perform very well. I often see trees in friendsÕ yards with diseased bark, jaggedly pruned off branches or some other unhealthy condition such as mineral deficiency, poor drainage, etc., and they wonder why the trees are not performing. Regards to all, Ed Osprey, FL mailto:elin@ingenious.com <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> Subject: July Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers July Meeting-This will be July 29 at Quail Gardens August Meeting- Jim Bathgate will talk on ÒFruits For HealthÓ on August 18th at 7PM in room 402 Bldg. t400 at Mira Costa College. Citrus Problems, Probable Cause, and Comments Round, red brown scales on fruit leaves and twigs. Leaves may yellow and drop and twig dieback may occur. California red scale Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold- Tree vigor may be reduced. Various soft scales including citricola, brown soft, or black scale. Look for scales on leaves or twigs they are rarely on fruit. Natural enemies usually provide effective control. Metaphycus parasites can be purchased and released for additional control. Keep ants out of trees; they protect scales from natural enemies. Oil sprays also effective; time treatments to target new brood right after hatching- Leaves curled, honeydew and sooty mold Aphids Control needed only for heavy infestations on young trees Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold. Tiny whiteflies fly out when branches disturbed. Whiteflies: Natural enemies usually control; however ants must be eliminated. Dust control Chemicals not effective. Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold. Cottony secretion on scales on twigs. Cottony cushion scale. Newly hatched nymphs are red and are'found on leaves and twigs. Older scales are on twigs and covered with acottony secretion. Eggs are in a fluted white egg sac about 1/2 inch long. Becomes a pest when its natural enemies including vedalia beetle and a parasitic fly, are destroyed by insecticides. Reestablish natural enemies and avoid use of insecticides. Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold. Mealybugs present. Mealybugs.Soft oval,distinctly segmented insects covered with a mealy white wax. Adults about 1/8-1/4inch long. Natural enemies usually control. A predator, the mealybug destroyer is available commercially for release. Control ants A ring or partial ring of scarred tissue around stem on fruit skin.Young leaves may be deformed and scarred. Citrus thrips. A tiny yellow insect about I mm. long. Very active. Damage is primarily esthetic; ignore if fruit is for home use. Fruit is scarred, but scarring does not form a ring around stem. Wind abrasion, Ignore, or Create a windbreak or plant in a nonwindy area Surface feeding or holes in blossoms, leaves or very young fruit. Citrus cutworm. Brown to green, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a prominent white stripe on each side. Curls up when disturbed. A problem primarily in the San Joaquin Valley. Damage occurs in spring. Natural enemies often effective. Bacillus thuringiensis effective. New leaves have holes and are webbed and rolled together Leafrollers. Orange tortrix. Amorbia- . Leaves and green fruit have a pale yellow stippling. Citrus red mite. A tiny red mite, barely visible without a hand tens, found mostly on young leaves. No webbing Natural control should usually be sufficient in unsprayed backyard trees. An oil spray made between August and September will control problems in most areas Oddly misshapen flowers and fruit. Primarily lemons in coastal areas Citrus bud mite. A very small ba rely visible elongated yellow mite- Can be controlled with a petroleum oil spray during May and ]une or September through November Holes in leaves and fruit, slimy trails. Snails Leaves turning yellow and dropping. No mites. May be an abnormal number of blossoms. Overwatering Decrease irrigations. Once a week is too much. Avoid planting ferns. annual flowers or plants that need lots ot water around trees. Leaves turn pale green to yellow, especially in winter and spring. No mites Nitrogen deficiency Check to see that fertilizer requirements are met. Symptoms sometimes appear in spring when soil temperatures are cold and trees are unable to take up nunients despite adequate amounts in soil. Leaves turning yellow and drop. Beads of sap found on trunk, trunk cracking. Brown rot gummosis Caused by a fungus that infectst yhe trunkand may spread to crowmn and woody roots. Keep trunk dry, do not allow sprinkler water to hit trunk. Scrape away all diseased bark and a buffer strip of healthy light brown to greenish bark around margins. Allow to dry. Repeat if infection recurs. Leaves turn yellow, root bark slides off easily when pinched. Phytophthora root rot. Caused by same fungus that causes gummosis. Survives in soil for a long time. if damage not severe, careful irrigation to avoid waterlogging with shorter more frequent irrigations may help. If severe, remove tree, use tolerant rootstock or fumigate if replanting. Trifoliate orange, alemow, and sour orange rootstocks are highly tolerant Ripe fruit turning light brown and soft. Brown rot fungus Fungus spores on ground are splashed onto fruit on lower branches. Ccurs primarily on fruit near ground during wet weather. Remove diseased fruit. Do not store infected fruit with clean fruit. A preventative Bordeaux treatment applied before first fall rains can be applied to tre skirts up to 4 feet and ground beneath trees. Older fruit drop. Sudden change in temperature or low moisture Check to see that fertilizer and water are adequate- NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net Aug. 18 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Jim Bathgate- Fruits for Health Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside ----- Subject: Festival Of Fruit Web Page http://www.crfg-central.org/2006_Festival/festival_2006_home.htm ---- San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200608A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - August 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200608B.txt _____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Lots of email, including seven new subscribers! You know that they usually have questions, without your help I'd never be able to answer them. I found that the two articles about compost spray to be interesting. Also, Jon has volunteered to post pictures sent by RFNO readers, with suggestions as to format. Our mango trees are producing more than usual, and I expect that the supplemental water I have been giving them is mostly the reason. "Turpentine" mango trees are bearing this year. Apparently there are various mango trees with that label. I saw some Jim Neitzel brought over that had a totally different appearance than mine. Mine are long (maybe three times as long as wide) and not very thick, with an s-shape (sigmoid?). His were much shorter and oval, and very fibrous in the flesh, although acceptable in taste. Mine were grown from seed from Puerto Rico I received a few years ago, where they were valued as a rootstock. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, San Diego, ÀFruits Near Harvey, Australia? Richard Frost Subscribe "Chris Knight" Re: Subscribe Leo Manuel To: Chris Knight New Subscriber, Panama-Want Info for Guarana E Philipp New Subscriber, New Orleans Rosierosato@aol.com New Subscriber, Alabama "Lorrain" Re: New Subscriber, Alabama Leo Manuel To: peanutsfarm1@aol.com New Subscriber-Mira Loma, CA Cindiblalock@cs.com New Subscriber, San Diego Brett Goldstock <><><> Readers Write <><><> Compost Spray Pitayas Removes Damage Spots! Leo Manuel Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Leo Manuel Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Leo Manuel My Blog From An Australian Garden Site Tony & Sandra Blueberries For Hot Climates N Sterman To: alice@meta4.us RE: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 6 Sophia Grady Squirrels jonv1@cox.net To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Figs for Honduras jonv1@cox.net To: dsy@yoder.net Posting pix For RFNO jonv1@cox.net Re: Posting pix For RFNO jonv1@cox.net Blueberries for Hot Climates and Manuel Jimenez Springville Lavender Gardens To: alice@meta4.us Delicious Passion Fruit Butter Timnovida@aol.com To: kikoandlily@yahoo.com Re: Casimiroa Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 20:46:52 +1000 Barry Hicks To: snoworry@home.it.net.au Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 3 chambejf@songs.sce.com Annona senegalensis christopher.marshall@att.net To: athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net Re: Posting pix Leo Manuel To: jonv1@cox.net Re: blueberries for hot climates Leo Manuel To: N Sterman Southern Highbush Blueberries Leo Manuel Re: Blueberries For Hot Climates N Sterman Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 6 James Freedner Re: Annona senegalensis christopher.marshall@att.net To: Paul Apffel Re: Annona senegalensis christopher.marshall@att.net Re: Plants in Tucson christopher.marshall@att.net To: Paul Apffel Chickens for Oxalis? Amy Fernandez To: rashid_patch@yahoo.com Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 21 Bananaizme@aol.com Black Sapote John Brode Re: Black Sapote Leo Manuel To: John Brode Ice Cream Bean Inga edulis "Chris" Re: Dragon Fruit Lon Rombough To: Ian August Newsletter of the North San Diego County CRFG Ben Pierce <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Irrigating When the Leaves Get Hot ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego, ÀFruits Near Harvey, Australia? Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 21:03:46 -0700 From: Richard Frost I am Richard Frost, in San Diego, CA (32¡ 57' 57.07" N, 117¡ 07' 54.61" W) Fruit trees (& vines) I am now growing are Hood Pear, Eugenia Brasiliensis, Eureka Lemon, Taveres Limequat, MidKnight Valencia, Kent Mango, Robertson Navel, Gold Nugget Mandarin, California Huckleberry, Heritage Raspberry, Flame Grape, Magnolia Vine "Eastern Prince", Thornless Youngberry, Panamint Nectarine, Pettingill Apple, Saturn Peach, Green Gage Plum, Katy Apricot, Cherimoya "Knight", Black Manukka Grape, Janice-Kadota Seedless Grape, Babaco (Mountain Papaya), Sharp's Blueberry, Black Satin Blackberry, Paul's Choice Tropical Guava, SueBelle White Sapote, Pineapple Guavas "Nazemetz" and "Lickver's Pride", Gwen Avocado, Bananas "Dwarf Cavendish", "Lacatan", and "Iholena Haa-Haa", Jaboticaba, Passiflora herbertiana, Passiflora quadrangularis, Persimmon "Matsumoto Wase", Pomegranate "Eversweet", Quince "Smyrna", Pink Flowered Current, Hillside Gooseberry, Cranberry "Early Black", plus a few others still in pots. Fruit I want to grow: Muscat Grape "Redgate". Comments: I'm proud to have Howard Frost as a great uncle and Mr. Robertson as my dad's neighbor. Does anyone know what are the native fruits near Harvey, Australia? Richard mailto:frost@san.rr.com [I understand from Jim Neitzel that Richard lives near me. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber in Tampa, Florida Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2006 22:45:26 -0400 From: "Chris Knight" I am Chris Knight, in Tampa, FL. I am growing: Bananas, Mangos, Carambolas, Barbados Cherry, Various Citrus, and Avocados, and I want to grow Ice Cream Bean Chris Knight mailto:Rmplmnz@tampabay.rr.com "You can't think of running another marathon until you forget how bad the last one felt." Frank Shorter ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Subscribe Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 07:47:41 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: cK Chris, are you familiar with the Ice Cream Bean tree? It grows fast, is a spreading tree, requiring a bit of space, and the beans have an edible fluff around them that is sweet but not especially good to eat. It makes a great climbing tree for children, but I didn't have enough room to leave it in my small yard. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Panama-Want Info for Guarana Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:45:29 -0500 From: E Philipp Hi! I'm Elise Philipp. I live in Panama, right outside of Panama City so I've got real tropical weather all year. We don't even have enough cold weather to turn the citrus orange or yellow from green. We've been here a year now and oddly enough what has surprised me the most was the complete lack of variety in the produce available in the markets. There are always papaya and pineapple, maybe some coconuts, nance. or melons, but I really think there ought to be alot more grown. I've been researching tropical fruits and their growing requirements. I haven't found much in plants available for sale either as culturally people don't garden for food. We grow lots of plantains and bananas, both red and the small apple bananas---which are absolutely fabulous! We also have Soursop, Breadfruit, Acerola Cherry, Pineapples, Noni and Avocados, although the breadfruit and the soursop haven't born any fruit to maturity yet. We also have a bush with small mulberry-like berries. I've started Carambola from seed as well as Mango and Passionfruit, although I'd rather have known varieties. There really ought to be an abundance of exciting fruits here. I'm looking for information about growing the Brazilian fruit, guarana. Everything I've found is about the many uses of the plant. If anybody has any resources, I'd appreciate it. Thanks Elise mailto:ephilipp@mac.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, New Orleans Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:25:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Rosierosato@aol.com Hi, my name is Ron Rosato. I am a retired Hospital Chaplain who now spends most of my time in the garden. I have been doing missionary work in Nicaragua for over 15 years and have been greatly interested in tropical plants and fruits. I am currently raising Papaya both Silo and Mexican red, guava both Beaumont and Pineapple and pitahaya that I have grown from seeds purchased in the super market. I have many of these cacti around the yard. Had fruit on them one year but a freeze ruined them. I have started over and have many plants w/o fruit. I am hopeful. This years guava crop has been outstanding. I also grow many varieties of citrus; tangelos,navels, Louisiana sweets,Moro blood, Meyer lemons, ponderosa lemons, various mandarins and tangerines. I also grow Loquats and pomegranates Wonderful variety. I live in the New Orleans area so we all are recovering from last years hurricanes. I did loose many trees but was able to save enough to start over again. I have belonged to California Rare Fruit Growers for many years,so I am also looking forward to your newsletters Please let me know if there is any other information you may need. Thank you! Kind regards and blessings Rev Mr. Ron Rosato mailto:Rosierosato@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Alabama Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:30:32 -0400 (EDT) From: "Lorrain" My name is Lorrain. I live in central Alabama. I am interested in fruits that will grow in this area for a homestead. Also semi dwarf fruit trees that the actual fruit has not been genetically altered. I would like a small orchard and berry patch for canning. Lorrain mailto:peanutsfarm1@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: New Subscriber, Alabama Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:41:44 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: peanutsfarm1@aol.com Also, See NAFEX - For Fruit Growers In Temperate Zones Not all fruit growers live in the sub-tropical fruit growing zones. Many of them turn to NAFEX for help growing such fruits as grapes, apples, pears, medlars, peaches, plums, pears, apricots. They may subscribe to Rare Fruit News Online for information about growing subtropical fruit. I have subscribed to NAFEX for over thirty years, and recommend it to you. There also is a NAFEX newsgroup, with frequent mailing to subscribers. I'll be delighted to send the Rare Fruit News Online newsletter to you. But, for maximum support, also check out NAFEX at the following web page: http://www.nafex.org/ to get the quarterly publication "POMONA" by snail mail. For the email newsletter, go the END of the webpage: http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex "Subscribing to nafex" where you leave your email address and password. Be sure to write to ask questions when the newsletters begin to appear. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Mira Loma, CA Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 15:09:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Cindiblalock@cs.com My Name is Cynthia Blalock. I live in riverside county Ca. Place exactly is Mira Loma small agricultural community but changing fast. We have one acre and are now trying to propagate some exotics. I have started Mango. Papaya. Kiwi. Banana, Macadamia, Loquat, Carob, Fig and others from seed. Macadamia seems to be the most difficult. I would like Cherimoya Starfruit and many others to numerous. Our climate here is desert. We have a shaded area and will be building a greenhouse hopefully SOON. Thanks Cynthia mailto:cindiblalock@cs.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2006 10:06:33 -0700 From: Brett Goldstock Hi I stumbled across your web site and it seemed like a good idea to subscribe to the newsletter. My name is Brett Goldstock and I live in San Diego. I immediately took an interest in tropical and rare fruits since I moved here from Upstate NY over 5 years ago. I'm a big fruit-lover and I'm married to a native Brazilian which has given me the opportunity to become acquainted with all manner of unusual flora. In my yard in the Mira Mesa area, I currently have the following growing: Mango (Cultivar: Haden) I planted a 15-gallon tree about 4 years ago, but it hasn't grown significantly. Perhaps the location is a problem as it gets shaded a bit by a large pine. It has produced some small mangoes. Fig (Cultivar: Verte) Doing very well here, it regular produces a good amount of green-skinned fruit. Fig (Cultivar: Black Mission) I just planted this last year and is still quite small. Tangerine (Algerian/Clementine