========================================== Rare Fruit News Online - All Year for 2006 ========================================== Rare Fruit News Online - January 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200601A.txt _____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> It's New Year's Eve and it is sprinkling rain. We haven't had much precipitation for a while, so I'm hoping.... Only one fruit remains on a Hylocereus pitaya - Paul Thomson's seedling 9-S. It should ripen in a few days. There are four fruit on two Yellow Pitaya (Selenicereus megalanthus). The time to ripen for Yellow Pitaya fruit after blooming is more than twice as long as for Hylocereus fruit. In 2003 it was five months after blooming (December 19) before the fruit was harvested on May 15, 2004. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Puerto Rico Luis Vega New Subscriber, California Ray Balcom New Subscriber, San Diego County Jim Hamilton <><><> Readers Write <><><> Strange Pitaya Behavior James Freedner How Bit The Tangelolo? N Sterman Re: Persimons Harvest pictures dracademia@aol.com What is Buddist Fruit Nrbpolish@aol.com <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Problem with longan tree in Florida Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Marcotting longan Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Re: Marcotting longan Leo Manuel To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Marcotting longan Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Lychee and Longan cultural requirements Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: William Butler Re: Longan questions Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: Charles Ferrin Re: cultivation techiques for different longan cultivars Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Marcotting longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Managing longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn More comments on marcorting Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Managing longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Re: Marcotting longan Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Re: Longan Tree in Perth, Australia Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ic@ic-net.com.au <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Re: Moringa Pat Scott <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Puerto Rico Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 16:56:43 -0400 From: Luis Vega Leo: I have three acres close to El Yunque rain forest in the island of Puerto Rico. I would like to subscribe to your newsletter as I am interested on planting exotic tropical fruit trees and I need all the information I can get. Thank you for your help. Luis Vega ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, California Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 06:36:03 -0800 From: Ray Balcom Ray Balcom I would like to join or subscibe to the mailing list. I currently farm in Rainbow but live in Bay Area I have trial plantings of mango, lychee, pitanga, persimmon, quavas, black and white sapote, surinam cherry, citrus a Lam-Hass avocados - around 250 young trees I am interested in acquiring Indian mango varities and more info on local lychee culture I like to share challenges of using local well water and the use of data loggers to profile frost free areas and critter crop damage I look forward in sharing my experiences with others and developing a fruit co-op Thanks ! ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego County Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 09:44:10 -0800 From: Jim Hamilton To: leom@rarefruit.com Dear Leo, Happy holidays. Just before new year's 2006, I have resolved to join a fruit growing group. I have volunteer peach, avocado, pomegranate, and tomato plants that all produce fine fruit. Each plant has a story about its propagation. Gophers are my gardening bane and they have consumed this year's winter garden. Do you have any members in the Fallbrook-Bonsall area? Yours, in cultivation, Jim Hamilton <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Strange Pitaya Behavior Date: Thu, 15 Dec 2005 23:43:32 -0800 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo: An interesting thing's happening with my pitaya cactus! In November the plant had a single flower - probably the last of the season. I paid little attention to it - didn't try to pollinate it as it was too high up to reach. Flower stayed on the plant and it looks like a fruit is forming. Not sure how large it will get, maybe just a false hope, but of all the flowers I had this year - this one seems the most promising. Wonder if the cooler weather in November had anything to do with it? Never heard of this Moringa "horseradish tree" of which mention is made - although I might recognize the plant if I saw a photo. Perhaps a greenhouse or enclosed porch is needed to keep the plant going through the winters. California winters around here (San Fernando Valley) are probably just a little too cold to suit some of the more exotic tropicals. My papaya survives but does not seem "happy" and some years even the pitaya get frostbitten. Happy holidays! May the coming year bring you health and prosperity!! James Eric Freedner Sun Valley, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How Bit The Tangelolo? Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:31:32 -0800 From: N Sterman I just purchased a tangelolo - I am wondering how large I can expect the tree to get? Thanks! Nan ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Persimons Harvest pictures Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 19:47:19 -0500 From: dracademia@aol.com Thank you for the pictures. They look like professionally taken. You have a photographic talent. Hermie ------------------------------------------------ Subject: What is Buddist Fruit Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 20:37:12 -0500 (EST) From: Nrbpolish@aol.com Would like to find out about buddist hand. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: What is Buddist Fruit (Buddha's Hand) Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 21:46:33 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Nrbpolish@aol.com Search with Google for Buddha's Hand to get lots of information about this Citron Citrus with a strange shape. Leo <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 22:20:50 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Here in Hawaii we have the same problems fruiting lychees as you do. That is, they do not fruit consistently. Some years good, most years bad. Have experimented with girdling the trees with limited success. So I was wondering if the Thai farmers have had any new breakthroughs in getting lychee to fruit. I would be much obliged for any information you can give me. I am attaching two photos taken while I was at your farm. I thought you might like them. Warm greetings from Hawaii, Oscar Jaitt *********************************************************** Sainarong writes: Early this year I visited all the major lychee producing areas in China. The Chinese lychees, in my opinion, are the best in the world. They are really great. The Chinese growers all use girldling, and are satisfied with the result; of course, it is quite cool in China in winter. However, there are two important factors to be born in mind. The first one is that girdling must be done at exactly the right time. The second factor is that the leaves must be at the right stage of maturity at the onset of the cold spell (which is getting highly unpredictable these days). Because of global warming and the accompanying unpredictability of the weather, many Thai lychee growers are giving up growing lychees, while others are experimenting with tropical lychees which do not require such low temperature for flowering, and, moreover, flower early. A highly respected grower here has been spraying his lychees with crunched ice, with good result. He waits until the temperature reaches its nadir for the season, then he sprays his orchard at the coldest time of the day (which is about four AM) for about two or three days running. Thanks for the pictures. Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Problem with longan tree in Florida Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 23:11:02 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Longan is a subtropical tree. Under suitable climate, longan is a very hardy tree; it does not really need much care. Some cultivars are more suited to certain climate than others; Kohala is the most suitable cultivar for California and Florida. I am afraid I cannot constructively comment on your longan without more information, such as the cultivar, the location of your orchard (South, Central or North Florida), the type of soil, the irrigation, to think of a few. But if I am forced to comment, I would say that it is probably due to either under irrigation or over irrigation or water-logged ground. The second most probably cause is fungus. The third most probable cause is ants or other underground pests. The fourth most probable cause is insects or bugs. But I am probably talking through my hat. A wise friend of mine refuses to make any comment until she has visited the plot in person. I should take a leaf off her book. Have Fun! Sainarong Ed in Florida writes: I need some help on my longan tree ( airlayered ) 2nd year produced fruit; 3rd yr some fruit. Then had bugs on underside of leaves. I got rid of them. Then it started to lose older leaves (turned yellow). It is leggy now, but has new growth lower on trunk. What should I do to improve the tree? Should I cut back the top growth or not ? I need your help. Do you have any suggestions. Ed in Brandon FL USA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 23:06:30 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Sainarong Siripen Rasananda" Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2005 5:03 AM Subject: Re: Difficulty with lychee flowering consistently > Sainarong, thank you for your reply. Glad you got to taste > those wonderful Chinese lychees. What was your favorite > variety(s)? Ans: I only tasted the early cultivars, so I am not in the position to comment meaningfully. I love them all, especially the ones on Hainan island; they have many great, relatively unknown cultivars there. I was lucky to be the guest of the universities everywhere I went, so I had the real experts accompanying me, and I tasted and saw only the very best. The lychees were unbelievable. ******************************************************** > "The second factor is that the >> leaves must be at the right stage of maturity at the >> onset of the cold spell " > > What stage do you mean? Just the fact that the tree is not > flushing new growth? Ans: Yes. But not only that, the leaves should be dark green at the time. I am purposely not specifying the number of days after flush because this may vary from cultivar to cultivar, and from environment to environment. *************************************************** > "He waits >> until the temperature reaches its nadir for the season, >> then he sprays his orchard at the coldest time of the day >> (which is about four AM) for about two or three days >> running." > > Do you know if he just sprays the ground with ice, or does > he spray the whole tree? Ans: I am pretty sure that he said that he sprayed the whole tree. However, I recall that some Aussies experimented with pouring dry ice on the ground beneath the canopy. My memory may fail me here, but I recall that the result was better than not putting any ice on; however, the result was not fantastic. It may be wrth your while trying out both methods. Merry Christmas, Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Marcotting longan Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 23:42:42 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: eamusg@quixnet.net Not really. Longan are generally quite easy to marcot and the success rate is quite high. You marcot it the same way as you marcot most trees. However, you should choose a good healthy branch which is not completely covered by growth in order to give it some sunlight. Does anybody have any comment or experience on this? I am sure many would like to hear about it. Good luck! Sainarong ----- Original Message From: eamusg@quixnet.net Hi I saw your letter in Leo's letters and want to ask questions on longan tree airlayering or marcotting. I have a tree in Florida USA that is growing limbs that are too long. There are lots of new growth closer to the ground. Are there any tips you could give me on airlayering longan trees? Ed in Brandon FL USA eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Marcotting longan Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 09:44:05 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Hi Sainarong I have propagated several lychee and longan trees by marcot or air- layering, and agree that longan is quite easy - for me, much more than lychee. The longan is ready to cut much sooner than the lychee, also. I've done both on the same day, and one reason for failures on the lychee was to assume both were ready, because the longan was. When I cut the rooted plants, I have been quite successful in establishing them, by placing the trees in shade with a large clear plastic bag over each one, tied tightly at the 'trunk.' Before adopting this method, I would cut the foliage 'way back, still keeping them in shade, but without the plastic bags. I also have been successful in using plastic bags around trees I'm moving from one planted location in my small yard to another. I dig the trees, put them into a large plastic pot, bag, and shade them for a few weeks, then finally, plant them into new locations. My success rate is high but not 100%. I will be interested in your comments and suggestions. Merry Christmas to you and yours, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Marcotting longan Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 21:54:26 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda I agree with you, Leo. Covering them with plastic bags increases the chance of success. This is because the plastic bags help ensure high humidity which is essential. Low humidity may result in dehydration which can be deadly for weakened plants. However, if the plants are sufficiently strong and the environment is favorable, there is no need to spend time on the process. Good Health! Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Lychee and Longan cultural requirements Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2005 21:23:26 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: William Butler Here are some comments on William Butler of Visalia Ca's questions. I have good soil here. A rich loam.It drains very well. All of my other trees do very well in it. I usually add a couple of shovels full of rich compost into the planting hole when planting the trees out. Then I follow up with a 2 to 3 inch layer of compost on the soil surface around the tree. Then follow this up with a layer of mulch several inches thick. Comment: The soil appears to be pretty good. Maybe a little bit more sand would be to longan's liking. There used to be a guy who was a member of the CRFG in a local chapter here in Visalia who was growing a " Brewster " Lychee and a " Kohala " Longan. Both his trees were like 5 feet tall and equally as wide. I had hoped to ask him about cultural requirements but he has since moved away. Both his trees were heavily ladened with fruit each year. After seeing his trees it gave me hope to grow them here. Comment: This guy seems to have perfected his techniques. Someone should try to hunt him down, and ask him to divulge his 'secrets'. Our climate here is hot in the summer and can get cold in the winter. Summers can get over 100F and winters can get below 32F. So I know that for the first few years its going to need some protection from cold. Comment: Below 32 can damage longans, and perhaps lychess as well. This year seems to be very cold everywhere. so take care. Bryan, whom I'm buying my airlayers from said when I receIve the plants to pot them up in a 2 or 3 gallon pot and shade them with intermittent mist. I don't have a shade house but some large trees in the backyard that give filtered broken sunlight. I was thinking of putting them under the tree. Another option is my friends greenhouse. It is very warm and humid in there. Do you think this would be ok to harden off the plants in there? Comment: Putting them under your large tree should suffice. If the greenhouse is very hot and very humid, that may be a little bit too much for the marcots. I need to know answers to questions like: 1) How much water should I give it? Comment: The key is the dampness of the soil, which varies from soil to soil, and from climate to climate. I would say that the saoil should be kept slightly damp most of the time but it should not be drenched. Generally, it is better to err on the dry side than vice versa. 2) How often should I fertilize? I normally use fish emulsion on my mangos and other things would this be ok on Lychee? Comment: As your soil is already well prepared, for the first two years, you hardly need any fertiliser. What you suggest should be fine. I find that most enthusiatic newbies over-fertilise and over-irrigate the saplings. To sum up, water is very important, but good drainage is a must, and over-irrigation drenches the soil may easily damage the sapling. If the soil is already well prepared, you do not need much fertilisers. Overall good management is the key, not fetilisers. Stay with the basic is my advice where conditions are favorable.. 3) I want to keep the tree small like 8 to 10 feet maximum. What is the best pruning practices to accomplish this? Comment: Good idea. The best way to keep the trees low is to get them to flower every year as this will limit the growth. If you have access to potassium chlorate, you may consider using them for longans. Do not allow a crop to betoo copious as this will weaken the trees later on. I would prune the pannicles if flowers are too plentiful. You should then hard prune after harvest, most people prune too little. We are getting into a lot of details here. Why? Because pruing per se is not the answer, it is the overall management for the entire year. You will notice that I am commenting rather than answering your questions. Unfortunately, I am not well acquainted with your environment so my thinkings may not be applicable to your case. What I can give you is general guidelines and the reasons behind my comments. Experienced growers in your area should be able to give you much better advice. Have Fun and take care Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Longan questions Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 22:35:09 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: Charles Ferrin Questions from Charles Ferrin in Saratosa, Florida. I have two questions about longans. First, I gave my relatives in Tampa, Florida a young longan tree (about 1 1/2 years old) to plant in their yard, and they still have it in the pot. Spring is here, so they want to plant it in ground. Do you have any advice for planting and establishing this tree in a Florida yard? Our soil here is sandy, but does have some organic content. Comment: Longan likes sandy soil with good drainage, but it should not be so sandy that it cannot retain any water. Longan needs a lot of water, especially during fruit maturation, but it, like most other fruit trees, does not like drenched soil. Longan also likes plenty of sunshine, but if you are planting it in the ground, it needs to be gradually introduced to sunshine. so you should consider shading it in the beginning and gradually remove the shading. Longan is a pretty hardy plant in suitable environment. How should this young tree be fertilized? Comment: Assuming that your soil is already fairly rich and that you have already added sufficient compost in the hole where the longan is to be planted, you do not need much fertiliser during the first few years. Just a little fertiliser, as recommended on the package label for new plants should be more than enough. In addition, they have a young dog that likes to chew on small plants and trees. Is there anything I can do to protect the longan tree from their dog when they plant it in the yard? Comment: Put up strong fence around the tree. Finally, do you know of an easy method for pitting longans? I would like to pit some longans when they are in season for drying and preserving, but I don't know how to do it. Comment: Use a knife to peel off the skin. Use a small curved knife to take out the seed without damaging the flesh and trying at the same time to maintain the original shape (in Thailand, we have a special but simple knife made for this purpose). Wash the flesh. Shake the flesh. Dry the flesh in the sun for a day or two. Put the flesh in an oven, not too hot, though. The result should be golden dried delicious longan. Remember, practice makes perfect. So, if you do not succeed, try and try again. The result is worth the effort. I shall send you picture of the final product. Have Fun! Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Cultivation Techiques For Different Longan Cultivars Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 22:53:05 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Ronald Lyn from Jamaica writes: Hi Sainarong. Back in 1998 you wrote, "I myself grow mostly Ea daw and a few Ee Haew and See Chompoo. I have difficulties with the latter two. I am beginning to think that the latter two need different methods of looking after and am treating them like I treat Ee daw." Have you had better luck the last 6 years with Chompoo? Have you put in any other varieties? Comments: Although Haew, Biew Kiew and See Chompoo are more delicious than E Daw, they are not as profitable, so I have not planted any more of these. And I have not tried different cultivation method, simply because it is not worth my while. I am, however, still of the same opinion. I am growing a few other cultivars, not commercially, just for fun. Have Fun, like me! Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Marcotting longans Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 23:01:41 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda More tips on marcotting longans: Choose water sprout. The branch should be straight. The bark should be brown but not too old. The branch should be exposed to plenty of sunshine. The size of the branch should be at least thumb (Asian thumb, that is)-sized. The best time to marcot is during the rainy season. The marcot is ready for cutting when the roots have turned brown. Merry Christmas (click below for a Chinese Christmas Greeting!) http://www.song173.com/happy/happy.htm Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Managing longans Date: Fri, 23 Dec 2005 23:21:09 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Ronald Lyn from Jamaica writes: How large do you allow your trees to become? And how does pruning affect flowering? It seems almost a losing battle trying to keep my few trees manageable. Sometimes they lose health and colour (kohala). So I gave up and it seems a good crop could be in the offing this year. Most flowering for first time, even though they were top worked on established trees. Comments: There are many questions here. I shall try to cover all the topics. I keep the height down to not more than three and a half meters at the most. I rellay prefer two to two and a half meters. Heavy pruning does affect flowering adversely, and slight pruning is generally not sufficient to keep the height down to the desired size. The more infrequent the flowering, the faster the growth, and of course the higher the tree becomes. But if you prune heavily, you get infrequent flowering. This is a 'Catch-22' situation. However, with the use of potassium chlorate to force flowering, the entire scene is changed. You can heavily prune your tree and force it to flower every year with potassium chlorate. And provided that you also prune the pannicle to ensure that the crop is not a very heavy one, the tree will be sufficiently healthy and strong to flower the following year, providing that potassium chlorate is used. And a fair crop means less flush which keeps down the size of the tree. My good friend, Pawin of Maejo University in Thailand, has been doing excellent research on this for a few years. He is now the recognised expert in Asia on the subject. His university has an excellent demonstration plot on pruing technique for longan. If you are ever in Thailand, I strongly recommend you to visait this demonstration plot. And yes, Pawin keeps his longan trees lower than two meters, performs very heavy pruning every year, and gets a good crop of large-sized longans every year. Pawin is also a commercial longan grower as well as a researcher, so he would not be applying the technique to his orchard if it does not bring him higher return. Merry Christmas! Sainarong PS Remind me to send you pictures of the demonstration plot. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: More comments on marcortting Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 14:37:14 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda If you have received a marcot which had been marcotted for many days and has been transported a long distance, what should you do to ensure its survival? The marcot may be dehydrated and weakened, so you need to allow it to recover first. If you plant it right away in the dehydrated and weakened state, it may well give up the ghost. So this is what you should do. First, you should spray the marcot with water and let it absorb the moisture. Then put in in a plastic bag, tie the opening, and allow it about a week to re-hydrate and recover. When it looks healthy and fresh, you can then plant it. You may also consider gradually introduce it to sunlight. This should increase the chance of survival. What do you think? Have a merry Christmas. Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Managing longans Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 14:57:45 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ronald lyn Ronald Lyn writes from Jamaica: What I have done is graft diamond river on kohala rootstock. Doesn't seem to have any difference in the growth of the diamond river. Sainarong coments: Is there any incompability between the two cultivars? Try the reverse. There may be an incompatbility which stunts the growth of the kohala. The incompatibility may not only stunts the growth, but it may encourage flowering as well. Strange but quite probable, thinbk about it. My Aussie friend, a very observant man and a successful grower, pointed this out to me. A grower in Thailand has grafted a local subtropical cultivar on diamond river rootstock. The incompatibility is very visible. Merry Christmas, Sainarong ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Longan Tree in Perth, Australia Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2005 22:35:31 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: ic@ic-net.com.au Sue in Perth writes: Just a quick update with my longan tree, its still very stunted in every way, since I planted it insitu [about 5 years now] it's now only about 1 m tall and 1.5 m wide so it hasn't grow much at all. I have semi-given up on the speed of its growth. Just taking it as it comes, however, I hope that perhaps one day it will grow up to be a gigantic specimen like once its ancestors. Comment: The climate in Perth is not favourable for longan. You have done a great job keeping it alive. It is now summer in Perth, and a good time to have a go at getting your longan tree to grow faster. Let's get down to the root of the problem, and I mean it literally. I have a feeling that if your roots are healthy, there is a good chance that your tree will grow faster this summer. Longan roots are fine and fragile. They do not go very deep down the earth, they mainly stay near the surface. The soil in which the roots reside should, nay must, not be compact, and should contain plenty of air spaces. The soil should be slightly damp most of the time, but should not be drenched. AS for the drainage property of the soil, it should be able to retain moisture, and yet at the same time should allow water to drain through; a water-logged soil is detrimental to longan. Longan does not require a lot of fertilisers, especially when it is still young; hence the soill should neither be too rich nor depleted. You may consider adding some nitrogen; it does wonder in speeding up the growth of the tree. By the way, do other trees grow well in your orchard? Merry Christmas! Sainarong <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Subject: Re: Moringa Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2005 11:07:32 +0800 From: Pat Scott Hi Dan, I have had several moringas in pots for several years (they have been in the pots simply because I have been neglecting them). They are outside all year round in a temperate climate, and they die back to ground level every winter, but come back again in the spring. All this makes me think they are pretty hardy plants. Cheers, Pat <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200601A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - January 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200601B.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Palm Springs, CA Susan Reese <><><> Readers Write <><><> Sun Valley, California Backyard Report James Freedner Dragon Fruit drink William Chow New CRFG San Diego Group Jose Asian mystery fruit Niki Wessels Rare Fruits? Mark Renshaw The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers CRFG-Ventura Santa Barbara January '06 Meeting Norman Beard <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Re: Low-rise off-season longan production in Chiangmai Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: hhb <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For San Diego Chapter CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Goji Berry Thaumaturgist Re: Goji Berry Michael Nave Re: Goji Berry "tabbydan" Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 13:40:00 +0800 Pat Scott Re: Goji Berry "tabbydan" Re: Goji Berry Re: Goji Berry Pat Scott Books - Rare Fruit "phil_p_2001" Re: Books - Rare Fruit gardens@aloha.Net Re: Books - Rare Fruit "oscarrj" Pitaya fruits "tabbydan" Re: Pitaya fruits "oscarrj" Re: Pitaya fruits "oscarrj" Re: Pitayas gardens@aloha.Net Re: Pitayas "oscarrj" Re: Pitayas luc vleeracker <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Remarkable Kazak Apples ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Palm Springs, CA Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 07:52:49 -0800 From: Susan Reese Hi, My name is Suze Reese, I live in the Palm Springs, California, USA area. I have no fruit trees at the moment, although I would like a Mexican guava, pineapple guava, and want to know of others. My favorite is Mango. We have a lot of citrus here in the valley, ripe for the picking on local streets. I prepare the local olives in various Mediterranean recipes. I subscribed to this newsletter a few years back and find myself referring to it in many conversations. Kindest Regards Suze mailto:Suzannetobin@adelphia.net <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Sun Valley, California Backyard Report Date: Sat, 31 Dec 2005 19:40:47 -0800 From: James Freedner Leo, a happy and healthy new year to you! Lots of rain up here in Sun Valley, in fact my pickup truck got stuck going through a big puddle of water (over 1 foot deep) and I had to push it three blocks back home! It has taken several hours to dry out the coil and re-charge the battery. Pitaya fruit seems to have fizzled out, maybe from the cold. Not much else happening here at the moment, except lots of cochineal scale on my prickly pear cactus (boo!) and some grapefruits are still hanging on the tree (yaaay!). Take care, J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit drink Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 13:35:23 -0800 From: William Chow Hi Leo, Mr. Robert Reid from Escondido told me that you can buy this drink from Thai stores in Escondido. Have you tried this yet? http://www.wonderfarmonline.com/product/detail.php?product_id=67&catPath=5_31 I have one can. I have not tasted the drink yet. How is your garden? Are you going to celebrate the Luna New Year - Year of the dog? (aka Chinese New Year.) Cheers! William mailto:wchow@earthlite.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New CRFG San Diego Group Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 04:18:44 -0800 From: Jose Group to talk and document the 2007 Fruit Festival that will be held in San Diego. Hi! Please visit this site that I prepared to talk about the Fruit Festival 2007. Please let me know if you would like to add/change anything. Thanks, Jose mailto:jmgallego@CRFGSanDiego.Org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Asian mystery fruit Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2006 09:37:40 +0200 From: Niki Wessels I've just returned from my second trip to Asia, and - as the first time - I couldn't wait to sample fruit not available at home. Some of the new additions to the list include sapodilla, custard apple and jujube. Though it proved to be hard to find one, I at last managed to get hold of a fresh durian: I'd only eaten a few processed durian products before. We had it peeled and portioned before we left Bangkok on a trip to Kanchanaburi. Somewhere on the way a faint whiff of gasworks and post-match foot odour began to intrude on our subconscious. By the time we got off at our island destination , the progress of our (former, I suspect) friend who was carrying the fruit could be smelled at the other end of the resort. I thought it worth it, however, when I at last got the chance to sample the flesh, which reminded me of a rich, cream custard pudding. We did encounter a fruit that we could not recognise at all. At a Christmas eve party in Hanoi we ate what our Vietnamese hosts referred to as Vietnamese apples, but for which I could not find any references on the Internet. These green fruit look rather like smallish, rather slim Granny Smith apples, with crisp flesh similar in texture, colour and taste to that of apples. I was. therefore, astonished (not to mention very nearly in need of an urgent trip to a dentist) when I discovered inside a stone very similar to that of a peach, although smaller! The other fruit probably does not strictly belong here, as I saw them in the wild in Thailand's Khao Yai Nature Resort, and I have no idea whether they are edible or not. They appear to be that of an arum, but if so, it must be an immense arum: The fruiting axis is borne on a pole-like stalk, and bears fleshy red berries, each of which contains two seeds. The whole structure seems to be around waist-high, but it is difficult to tell because of the surrounding vegetation. Can anyone identify these fruit, perhaps? (I realise the attached photographs of the fruit will not accompany the newsletter, but I'd be happy to send them to anyone who'd like to see them. A happy new year to all Niki Wessels mailto:mynah@mweb.co.za ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rare Fruits? Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2006 18:28:44 -0800 From: Mark Renshaw Hi, Has anyone in you group here in San Diego ever tried to grow something called a Honeyberry (Lonicera caerulea) ? Also I've heard of a white Nanking cherry that is sweeter than the red one but the only place (Edible landscaping) that sells them doesn't sell to California. Do you know of a place that carries the white Nanking cherry that I can get one at ? Thanks! Mark Renshaw mailto:mrenshaw@alxnsd.com ------------------------------------------------ The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers The following tentative schedule was developed: Jan. Scion Exchange Feb. Grafting Mar. Cherimoya Tasting April Ethno-Botany- Carl Hansen May- Scheiber Grove (Vista) tour June Vincent Lazaneo (Master Gardener program manager) Topic TBD July annual plant sale and potluck picnic Aug. Fruits for Health Ð Jim Bathgate Sept. Festival of Fruit Ðno meeting Oct. Plant labeling Dr. Skip Vince Dec. annual Christmas Potluck This schedule is only tentative and Carol and Cindy may make changes during the year. The following slate of officers was elected for 2006: Chairman Ben Pierce Vice Chairman Carol Graham Treasurer Jim Rockoff Secretary Harry Nickerson JANUARY MEETING-The Scion exchange meeting will be in room T401, building T400 at MiraCosta College. You can park in either lot 4e or 4c. The business part of the meeting will also discuss 3 topics. The parent organization has laid 2 new requirements on the chapters. 1. They are in the process of renewing their insurance policy. They are running a deficit and can no longer allocate part of the $30 annual dues to cover the cost of insurance. The estimate of insurance costs is $5 per member per year and they want to pass that cost down to the chapter. This fee increase will be discussed at the Jan. meeting. 2. Because of the insurance implications they also want to verify that all members of the chapter are members of the parent organization. That has always been our chapter policy, but we had no way of enforcing it. That has now changed. Each February and October they want us to submit our membership list to them, so they can check it against their own. The chapter secretary had to submit a preliminary list of current members to the parent organization in December of 2005. The secretary will need your help in refining this list in time for the February submittal and may bring to the Jan. meeting a list of members whose status is questionable to ask if anyone can shed light on his or her status. This new requirement may also force us to define more carefully what constitutes membership and this may be discussed at the Jan. meeting. 3. The chapter has been functioning without any by-laws, probably because the membership has been very stable. Ben, our new chairman, wants to publicize and grow our chapter. The other chapters i.e. San Diego and Orange County have by-laws. In view of these factors Ben has drafted and reviewed with George Emerisch, Jim Bathgate and the current officers a simple set of by-laws. These may be passed out so members can take them home and be prepared to discuss them at the February meeting. FEBRUARY MEETING= The college will be closed on Feb. 17 our normal meeting date; so we have moved the February meeting to the 10 of February. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $6.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30 /yr and is required. Chapter dues run from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. CRFG dues run 1 year from the date you joined. Please mail your $30 CRFG dues to the address in the Fruit Gardener. Make checks payable to CRFG. Send chapter dues to Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92008 Send address changes to Harry Nickerson, 1815 Yettford Rd. Vista CA 92083 QUAIL GARDENS- Monthly work parties are held on a Saturday morning for the Fruit Garden at Quail Gardens. CRFG planted and now maintains the garden. We need monthly volunteers to help with the tasks, such as pruning, weeding raking etc. It is an opportunity to work with people who have a lot of experience. Steve Ashley who leads this is usually there from 9:00 AM to 12:00 PM but if you can only come for an hour or so it will still be appreciated. Contact Steve for the specific schedule and further details. Jan. 20 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T401-Bldg. T400 Scion Exchange Feb. 10 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T401-Bldg. T400 Grafting Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Check calendar for current meeting details. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG-Ventura Santa Barbara January '06 Meeting Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 20:44:30 -0800 From: Norman Beard ******JANUARY MEETING When: January 21, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon (We will start on time.) Where: Norman & Kay Beard's residence; 200 Ellwood Ridge Road, Goleta; 968-0989 Directions: From the SOUTH: Exit 101 N at Winchester Canyon Road; turn RIGHT onto Winchester Rd. Turn RIGHT onto Cathedral Oaks Rd. Turn LEFT (at the Old Barn with boats) onto Ellwood Canyon Rd. Turn slight RIGHT onto Ellwood Ridge Road. Go up the hill to 200 Ellwood Ridge Road (1st place). Follow CRFG Signs! >From the NORTH: Take the Hollister Ave. exit of 101 S, then turn LEFT and cross over 101. Turn RIGHT onto Winchester Canyon Rd. Proceed as above. Agenda: Annual Plant Sale; Air-Layering with Rooter-Pots; Grafting; Scion Wood Exchange; Fruit Garden Tour Host: Norman Beard, our Chapter's Co-Chair. Description: -- There will be many plants for sale at this meeting, as it is our 5th annual CRFG plant sale held at the Beards' (the past 4 events were extremely popular!). A Plant List is attached. All vendors and commercial Gardening services are invited to participate; members with plants to sell are encouraged to bring their plants. This meeting is open to the General Public, so bring friends and neighbors. -- Norman will show how to air-layer using "Rooter-Pots" and how to graft, and lead a tour of his expansive fruit garden. (Rooter-Pots, which are reusable, will be available for purchase at the meeting.) -- Please bring scion wood for an exchange. Have it packaged in labeled baggies and kept cool with ice cubes. -- Please bring a donated plant to raffle (you'll receive a free raffle ticket). All proceeds will go to our CRFG Chapter treasury. -- If you have black buckets you don't need, please bring them, as Noman is donating buckets for our February meeting. ******SAVE the DATE: FEBRUARY MEETING The meeting will be held on Saturday, February 25th, 10:00am - noon, at Monte Vista Elementary School, 730 Hope Ave., S.B. We are honored to have Dr. Joe Sabol, a Cal-Poly retired professor, teach us on how to graft apple scion wood on root stock. Everyone will be able to graft an apple tree. Cost to any grafter will be $2.00 for each apple tree (which he/she can pot up there and take home!). ******LOCAL OFFICERS Chapter Co-Chair: Norman Beard, (805) 968-0989, beardtropics@earthlink.net Chapter Co-Chair: Jerry Sortomme, (805) 644-2777, jerrysortomme@hotmail.com For Membership in California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc, send $30.00 to CRFG, Inc, Fullerton Arboretum- CSUF, PO Box 6850, Fullerton, CA 92834-6850 AND $10 (for Local Dues) to Roland Messori 355 Sierra Vista Rd., Santa Barbara, CA 93108 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Re: Low-rise off-season longan production in Chiangmai Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 23:00:49 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: hhb I am quite interested in your "low-rise" longan. Is it a dwarfing technique or a genetic dwarf? It is a dwarfing technique. Sixteen years ago, I saw in Singapore genetic dwarfs of Durian and "Bua Kedongdong" (it means Kedondong fruit in Malay). I don't know its Latin name, it is a sweet/sour fruit, no much flavor, the size is about a small lady fist. I was very familiar when I was a boy living in Kuching Sarawak). You know the durian trees are very tall, several stories high, and the genetic dwarf ia just 2-3 meters high. The dwarf Kedongdong miniatur trees were grown in big pots. I did raise a question to my colleagues without any substaintial response, that are there any genetic dwarf of lychee and longan? Should we pay attention to such work? Much concern has been towards apple and other genetic dwarf and there are numerous results. For tropical and subtropical fruits, this idea seriously lags behind. I am a fruit physiologist, do not have energy to deal with genetics, now I am retired (2002), so I am just interested to know something that I happened to think before. I am also interested in genetic dwarfs. Unfortunately, no one else seems to be interested. We have in Lampoon a 10-year-old longan tree which is less than 2 meters high. It may well be a genetic dwarf, but nobody has bothered to graft it and grow it at other locations, or to grow trees from its seeds. So we do not know whether we have a genetic dwarf in our midst. This is a pity. I also think that low-rise trees may be obtain by a not-very-compatible scion to a rootstck; the resulting tree may also flower regularly. Hope you are recovering fast! Sainarong/Lin Heping mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Subject: Goji Berry Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 06:35:28 -0800 (PST) From: Thaumaturgist Anyone growing the Himalayan Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum) or anyone with any info? Http://www.Dynamic-health.Com/goji.Htm http://www.Gojiberryproducts.Com/site/928759/page/45029 Asit K. Ghosh mailto:asitkghosh@yahoo.Com http://www.Asitghosh.Com Rockledge, Florida 32955, USA ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 08:07:46 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Nave I bought two seedlings last winter and they died before they even leafed out fully. Not sure what the problem was. I'm going to try again this year. I don't care for the marketing schemes and extravagant health claims that surround goji but the dried fruits really are quite good and I would like to try the fresh fruit. Michael Nave mailto:jmichaelnave@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 19:17:10 -0000 From: "tabbydan" It's also called "chinese wolfberry". It does have legitimate health benifits but it isn't a panacea... It's probably like carrots or apples (good for you but not going to cure you of cancer, make you walk again, or reverse blindness). >> http://www.Dynamic-health.Com/goji.Htm This site was particularly whacky. It boasted that the juice was high in germanium (an element that, so far, no one has found used in the human body and it seems dubious that it ever will). Keep in mind that herbal suppliments are NOT regulated by the FDA and as such they are a great market for charlatins. One consumer study found that most echanacia(sp?) Suppliments contained little or no echanacia(sp?). Of course, some producers are legit, but many oversell the benefits and do nothing to ensure a given dosage strength (specific phytochemicals can be in lower/higher conc. Based on variety, growing conditions, storage....). You can google the sci name and find LOTS of links on research. It has been used for centuries in Chinese traditional medicine and science has confirmed that it does have legitimate benifits... You can get the berries (dried) at lots of Asian markets. My wife used o make a tea with wolfberries and other plant products and insist I drink it to help heal my throat. I kind of doubt it had any effect on my throat and stopped drinking it because it didn't have a good flavor and was astringent. It's probably worth growing and eating as "beneficial food". mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 13:40:00 +0800 Subject: Re: Goji Berry From: Pat Scott Hi, I'm not growing Goji, but I did a bit of research on the internet recently and wrote an article. Here is one bit of that: There is considerable confusion about the correct names and identity of the species of Goji. Goji is a member of the Lycium genus and the Solanaceae family, or nightshades, that includes tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco, capsicums, eggplants, petunias,and many more. There are in the order of 100 different species of Lycium, some of which are prohibited in Australia (African Boxthorn, L. Ferocissimum) because of their weedy habits and ferocious thorns. The correct name for Goji seems to be Lycium barbarum. As far as common names are concerned, Goji is also commonly called ÔWolfberry,Õ or ÔMatrimony Vine.Õ Most likely, ÔWolfberryÕ should be considered to be L. Chinense. It is very similar to L. Barbarum, and indeed, Goji berries imported from China are often L. Chinense; berries of this are said to be more bitter than L. Barbarum. It is said that dried berries can be identified by their colour: real Goji berries have a range of reddish colours, while the substituted Chinese ones are uniformly red as a result of being dyed. Cheers, Pat mailto:clamshell@iinet.Net.Au ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 12:32:59 -0000 From: "tabbydan" Thanks for the info Pat. Clears up some confusion I had. For instance the wolfberry I had didn't seem to be great eating dried (unlike what Phil had). Do you have more info on the Lycium genus (you named two species, I'm wondering if others are food plants and if so what they are like)? mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 14:01:26 -0000 From: "tabbydan" L. Andersonii: edible, thorny, arid plant L. Californicum: edible, arid plant L. Pallidum: Range: Pale wolfberry ranges from southern Colorado, Utah, and Nevada south to California, Arizona, New Mexico, and western Texas Edible: Historically, Native Americans have eaten pale wolfberry berries and have used the plant for a wide variety of medicinal purposes From: http://www.Csdl.Tamu.Edu/FLORA/cgi/b98_list?Genus=Lycium Species in the US (more elsewhere in the world): Lycium andersonii: edible (above) Lycium barbarum: edible (goji) (oddly found in most states) Lycium berlandieri: edible (PFAF) Lycium californicum: edible (above) Lycium carolinianum (The berries are edible (but they are bird- preferred, not for human-consumin' (From: http://www.Plantcreations.Com/lycium_carolinianum.Htm)) Lycium chinense Lycium cooperi Lycium exsertum Lycium fremontii Lycium hassei Lycium macrodon Lycium pallidum Lycium parishii Lycium puberulum Lycium richii Lycium sandwicense Lycium shockleyi Lycium texanum Lycium torreyi Lycium tweedianum Lycium verrucosum mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Goji Berry Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 10:54:05 +0800 From: Pat Scott Hi, No, I don't have any more info - I was only looking at those few species. Here is a URL for a nursery that sells the L. Barbarum plants. It was the only site I came across that had actual growing information. http://www.Timpanogosnursery.Com/site/928760/page/416906 Pat mailto:clamshell@iinet.Net.Au ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Books Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 04:54:01 -0000 From: "phil_p_2001" I know this subject has been discussed before, but I have a poor memory, so here goes. I take it from the discussions that Julia Mortons book (Fruits of warm climates ) is number one choice. (Very expensive), so what would be a good second choice ? Phil mailto:phil_p_2001@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 22:04:36 -1000 Subject: Re: Books From: gardens@aloha.Net The Mortons book is on the Internet on: http://www.Hort.Purdue.Edu/newcrop/morton/index.Html vladimir mailto:gardens@aloha.Net ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Books Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 08:33:57 -0000 From: "oscarrj" Phil, Morton is very cheap, free in fact. All online. The CD version on the Morton book is not expensive, only the book format is expensive. Other books I recommend are at http://www.Fruitlovers.Com/favoritebooks.Html Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Pitaya fruits Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 23:25:50 -0000 From: "tabbydan" You and Carlos have had good ones. I've tried a lot and never had a good one so I guess often it is picked a the wrong stage- and probably will continue to be that way unless I go to where it is growing and have an expert pick one fresh off the plant at the peak of ripeness for me. The odd thing is that F&S have a good variety one and they usually only put premo fruits out for sampling in the gift shop (I think their H. Undatus is in a locked greenhouse that not everyone can get into- so only Chris R. Or a few others would be picking it). Their H. Undatus left me wholly unimpressed. Likewise I didn't try any in Thailand but I asked Kukiat if he ever had one he liked (they grow a lot of it there) and he told me that he hadn't. In contrast I've only had 1 of the "yellow" ones (Selenicereus megalanthus) and I liked it. Marcelo found that same fruit too bland for his tastes though (and I think H. Undatus is too bland for my taste). There are a lot of other cactus fruits that generate fruits of known quality easier... So I'm not going to waste any more energy going after H. Undatus (I used to be convinced it was the best since all kinds of cactus fruit growers grew it... And put up with it). I will continue to go crazy and waste lots of energy for other plants though, like Theobromas, Garcinia.... Even Eugenia (which has some real nice fruits and a lot of so-so ones- but I have an odd fixation on it) mailto:tabbydan@yahoo.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitaya fruits Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:19:53 -0000 From: "oscarrj" I have eaten a lot of dragon fruit and agree with Bryan. Have had the whole range of tastes from dragon fruit from bland as water to delightful. The ones I had in Thailand were totally bland. Have had excellent ones here and tasteless ones here. The white ones tend to be more bland. My favorite one here is pink fleshed. Very nice subtle berry taste, great texture, just very expensive! As I remember tabbydan used to not like lychees until he had the real article! I never understood how anyone could NOT like lychees until I had ones from a supermarket in LA! Yuk, practically unedible. Fresh fruits are just not the same as fruits that have been sitting around for days or weeks. Also have read that dragon fruit growers pick the fruit on the unripe side so they will keep longer. Full flavor demands picking the fruit ripe. It does not ripen off the vine. Ever had unripe figs? Oscar, Hawaii mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitaya fruits Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 00:26:48 -0000 From: "oscarrj" The yellow pitaya (Selenicereus megalanthus) is a lot sweeter than the dragon fruit. I like the yellow pitaya also, but they are usually pretty small, not as attractive, and do not have some of the subtle berry tastes that a good dragon fruit has. mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitayas Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:34:25 -1000 From: gardens@aloha.Net I am growing several varieties of dragonfruit. I ordered seeds about 2 years ago and all sprouted well and after 2 sprouting seeds started grow with tiny thorns. Year later local nursery started selling several varieties of dragonfruit cactuses. After 2 years of growing dragonfruit from seeds, my biggest once are just as thick as sections of mature dragon fruit cactuses. I don't know how trustfully would the fruit reproduce from seed, but 'leaf' part, I can see, looks very different from different varieties and very uniform within variety. During this time it happened twice that I was able to purchase a fruit. Each time different variety. The seeds sprouted well, after just washing off the sweetness. It is amazing to me, because the seeds are very small and I have no prior experience in growing cactus from seeds. I do experience problems of other type - big cactus, when it rains too much rots. I'm thinking of getting a drum and filling it with sandy soil and rocks and growing it like that, because I am not living on desert side of the Island where different cactus grows naturally . The 2 types of dragon fruit I did tasted: one was red on the outside with whitish pulp on the inside - to me it tasted very pleasant, because I love melons and cucumbers, but to somebody else it might taste too bland. Another one was again red outside, and inside was very dark red - I did not like the after taste. The taste was sweet, uninteresting but OK. The aftertaste was little like a raw/under-cooked red beet. About methods of growing: I see on photos on the net how it is thinned to main stem and staked and grows sort of like a beautiful 'tree', but I've seen it also growing on a sunny rocky slope and also putting air'roots - attaching itself on the sunny wall of a house. I'm attracted to growing it, because prickly pear (a fruit of fattish sections cactus - Latin name Opuntia) which grows on our Island wild, has tiny prickles on the outside of the fruit's skin (dragonfruit has none) and prickly pear has lots of big seeds (sort of like guava but more so) and dragon fruit's seeds one just swallows - like seeds of strawberry. I'm hoping to grow this cactus to fruiting stage, so when grandchildren come to visit, I can impress them. That's about the end of description of my limited experiences with this very interesting looking fruit. Vladimir mailto:gardens@aloha.Net ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitayas Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:54:42 -0000 From: "oscarrj" In case you do not already know it, there is a special yahoo newsgroup dedicated to just dragonfruit. It is hosted by Leo Manuel. There is a lot of interest by hobbyists in this fruit and a lot of detailed discussion. See http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PitayaFruit/ Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@gmail.Com ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Re: Pitayas Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 17:23:06 -0800 (PST) From: luc vleeracker Curious! In their natural habitat they also grow in the shade in trees and on rocks. I planted about 20, all taken out of the jungle, in full sun against a wall and totally neglect them, they are not really doing well, on the other hand I forgot some in my shaded nursery behind otherplants and these grow like crazy. These Vietnamese guys must know or do something that I dont know, unfortunatly they are not open to the public and when one tries to approach them to talk about rare fruit you hit a wall. For them it is strictly $$$$$. Therefore I would like to thank all our groupmembers for whom this is also a business like Bryan, Oscar, Ken and all the others who graciously offer their advice. Luc mailto:lucvleeracker@yahoo.Com <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Remarkable Kazak Apples Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2006 08:06:08 -0500 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr Grafts, genetic material and rootstocks collected during the 1990s from wild apple trees in central Asia may revolutionize the nation's apple industry. This material shows potential for helping breed trees that bear popular, domestic apples while standing up to destructive diseases and fungi, according to Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists. The genetic material was gathered during U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) sponsored excursions to Asia and Europe aimed at expanding the known genetic diversity of apples. Horticulturist Phil Forsline and plant geneticist Gennaro Fazio of ARS' Plant Genetics Research Unit have used the material to raise orchards of the exotic apples near their laboratory in Geneva, N.Y. And, with colleagues in ARS and Cornell University, they've documented with astonishment the disease resistance of many of these trees and the domestic species they've bred with them. Forsline went on seven of the collecting trips, including four to central Asia. The trips resulted in at least a doubling of the known genetic diversity of apple trees, according to Forsline. The scientists returned with 949 apple tree accessions from central Asia alone. Other excursions were to China, the Caucasus region including Russia and Turkey, and Germany. Fazio and Forsline are most impressed with the material collected in Kazakhstan, especially accessions of Malus sieversii, an important forerunner of the domestic apple. This is logical, given that Kazakhstan is a likely ancestral origin of familiar domestic apples (Malus x domestica) such as Red Delicious, Golden Delicious and McIntosh. According to Forsline, the Kazak trees showed significant resistance to apple scab--the most important fungal disease of apples--as well as to fire blight. They were highly resistant against Phytophthora cactorum, which causes collar rot, and Rhizoctonia solani, an agent of apple replant disease, according to Fazio. Both researchers found genes in the Kazak apples that allow them to adapt to mountainous, near-desert, and cold and dry regions. Read more about the research in the January 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/apples0106.htm ARS is USDA's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200601B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - February 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200602A.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> There's considerably more letters than have been posted for some time. Several have written of questions they have or plant material they need. I hope that you will pass along information to them that you know about. Kent and Keitt mango trees are still carrying rather large fruit. They tend to be later than most of my others. However, it's surprising to see that several of the Early Gold fruit have not ripened. The last four pitayas - all Yellow or Selenicereus megalanthus - are finally starting to show the yellow color that indicates they are ripening. The spines will brush off ripened fruit, but wearing gloves is recommended. Tell us what's happening in your garden. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Fort Lauderdale, Florida Ken Workman New Subscriber, Near Kansas City, Missouri Elizabeth A Young New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Wants Recipies Barry Hicks Resubscribing Ollie RE: Resubscribing Ollie New Subscriber, Charleston WV EricJK32@charter.net New Subscriber, Central Florida, Needs Raspberry Source "NancyB." New Subscriber - El Cajon, California Connie Beck New Subscriber, Hawaii, Growing Unusual Rare Fruit Ana Frederick <><><> Readers Write <><><> Flowering Pomegranate EricJK32@charter.net http://webpages.charter.net/ericinwv/Pomegranate/ Jujubes in NW Florida? Source Information Needed Bill Burson Apricot dilemma Nan Sterman RE: Apricot dilemma JosŽ Miguel Gallego To: Nan Sterman , Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) Annabell Skripek Re: Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) "david.crfg-sd" To: Annabell Skripek Dragon fruit Pitaya John Koman Re: Dragon fruit Pitaya Leo Manuel To: John Koman Jan 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Zhenxing Fu Looking For Source for Cherimoya Fruit "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Where Should I Locate To Grow Jackfruit, Papaya? Siraj Chowdhury Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Siraj Chowdhury Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury Pitahaya Joanne Gram <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Michael Nave Pawpaws-great discussion of flavors http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/27783.html Miracle Fruit In Pill Form "rarefruit2003" Grafting Made Easy by using Parafilm M <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Plant Compounds Could Aid Blood Flow ARS News Service Rooting for Helpful Fungi ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Fort Lauderdale, Florida Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 04:01:53 -0500 From: Ken Workman We would like to subscribe to your newsletter. We live in Fort Lauderdale and have just come back from a trip through S.E. Asia with the Fruit/Spice group out of the Fruit/Spice Park in Homestead, Florida. We currently have Carambola, Tapia, and Mangosteen growing in front yard. About to expand to Pitaya, and mango, and whatever else captures our interest. We look forward to hearing from you. Ken and Deb Workman mailto:kdwork@starpower.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Near Kansas City, Missouri Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 13:48:27 -0600 From: Elizabeth A Young Hello, Yesterday while at the library using the Internet, I found your website. I would like to receive your newsletter. My name is Elizabeth Young and I live about an hour East of Kansas City, MO, via Interstate travel time in Zone 5-6. I don't have a super computer system and have a lot of trouble getting e-mail at times, so prefer to share my e-address only with you, not everyone on the newsletter list if that is possible. It is the same as is on this posting. I do not have Internet access at home. We currently have a 20x36 unheated hoop house that my husband and I just put up late in 2005 on our small farm. I have lettuce growing and a few other 'greens', potted perennials that needed protection and will soon be planting early garden inside. I ordered a Hardy Chicago fig, white mulberry, and Che from Edible Landscaping last fall. The mulberry graft was broken, they are supposed to replace it this Spring. The other two don't look particularly impressive. I have been looking on the Internet for other places to order 'new to me' fruiting bushes and trees. One place I found yesterday was Burnt Ridge Nursery in Washington state. Do you know anything about them? The plants of interest for me are: Aronia, Blue Bean, Goumi, Honeyberry, Wolfberry and two more figs, Italian Honey and Violette de Bordeaux. I probably will be ordering from them before the next newsletter comes out but still would be interested to know if others have experienced any of these and the results. We are from the Missouri Ozarks, East of Springfield and one of my brothers is in Northwest Arkansas, so it is interesting to find that you are from the Ark. Ozarks. Also, I have a brother and sister-in-law near Cardiff by the Sea. Though I have never been in the area, I believe it is near where you are in San Diego. I will be watching for your newsletter. Elizabeth mailto:whisperyoung@juno.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Wants Recipies Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 10:21:26 +1000 From: Barry Hicks I would like to become a subscriber please. I am Barry Hicks, Beerwah, Queensland 4519 Australia I'm looking recipes using Brazil cherries (Eugenia uniflora). Fruit/nuts I have growing are Bananas, passion fruit, jaboticaba, pawpaw (2 var.), custard apple, citrus (4 var.), fig, mulberry, persimmon, lichi, macadamia, Atherton oak, Cedar Bay Cherry (Eugenia reinwardtiana) (Bush tucker food). Yours faithfully Barry Hicks mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Resubscribing Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 23:04:28 -0500 From: Ollie Hi, This is Oliver (Ollie) Patterson, from central Florida, hoping to *resubscribe* after years of being away. Remember me, Leo? It's been a while. . . . These days I'm growing the following: Carambola (getting hundreds of *big* fruits per month from two trees, even in January--these trees love my yard!) Lychee (four trees (two are 'Emperors') that never seem to flush at the right time of year) Atemoya (two trees--these are my favorite fruits) Jackfruit (one tree (seedling, 'NS-1') that's young but growing *very* rapidly) Jaboticaba (three trees, one of fruiting age--I love these trees) White sapote (huge seedling that still hasn't flowered--aarrgghh!) Avocados (not having great success with these--slow growing) Macadamia nut (no production yet from two 'Arkin papershells') And also Barbados cherry, black sapote, wampi, guava, fig, and various citrus species. . . . Ollie Patterson mailto:ollie_patterson@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Resubscribing Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 23:55:25 -0500 From: Ollie Thanks, Leo. It's great to see that you're still keeping RFNO going. I don't know how or when I lost track of it, but I'm glad to be back. Along the way I became the father of three children--maybe that's the reason! Anyway, nice to hear from you again and I look forward to reading the back issues (yes, I have Internet access). mailto:ollie_patterson@earthlink.net -----Original Message----- From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 11:19 AM To: Ollie Subject: Re: Resubscribing > Hi Ollie, > > I remember you well in the birthing period of this newsletter. > Welcome back! > > Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Charleston WV Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 06:14:26 -0500 From: Eric Konieczny Hi, My name is Eric Konieczny. I grew up in National City, CA and Ramona, CA and now am currently living in Charleston, WV. Moving from the warm thermal hills above Ramona to the cold appalachian valley of Charleston West Virginia is quite a challenge for someone who all their life grew all kinds of rare fruits. But I guess growing exotics is an addiction and no matter where you are the urge never goes away. My secret out here in this usda zone 6b climate is using thick gauge plastic on the outside of my garage door. That way I can open the door up in the daytime to let sunlight in and keep the cold out. I have a gas furnace on standby if it gets too cold. Guess it is some kind of generic greenhouse, but hey it works. Some fruits I am growing now include: Various citrus trees including a 5 1/2 foot tall Ugli fruit tree grown from seed, a mango from seed, pineapple, coconut, (longan and litchi seedlings that are damping off), chinese jujube, and all kinds of miscellaneous plants that my Dad brings out here from San Diego every May to cure my home sickness like red apple ice plant, natal plum, cotlydons, bougainvillea, tree aloes, and even canyon Live oak seedlings to mention a few. Now if I can bring back some wild chapparal plants and maybe some invasive wild mustard and fennels to really make it feel like home....Just kidding West Virginia DNR if you are reading this. LOL!! By the way if anyone knows where in San Diego I could have my Dad get a "Wonderful" pomegranate and not a mislabled double flowering carnation one let me know. Cuttings, bare root, or potted. It doesn't matter. So far the double flowering one I did get does quite well at my house against a south facing wall and survived the past 2 winters. Hopefully the "Wonderful" variety can come close to equaling its hardiness. I must get one to try and as far as I know it would be the only outdoors fruiting pomegranate in West Virginia. Anyway's, Lots of great rare fruit info from all kinds of growers thats well put together through your news letters. Excellent job. I look forward to reading more. Eric Konieczny mailto:EricJK32@charter.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Central Florida, Needs Raspberry Source Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 21:25:16 -0500 From: Nancy Baron Hello; My name is Nancy Baron, and I live in Central Florida. I grow: pineapple guavas, pineapples, japanese persimmon (the hard and soft type), figs, grapefruit, oranges, key limes, flame grapes, tangerines, papayas, and just planted an avocado tree. I also raise orchids, including Vanilla planifolia. I would like to raise low - chill raspberries like the California (Oregon 1030), but I need a mail order source. Any sources for low chill raspberries would be welcome! The pineapple guavas are smaller than what you see sold from NZ, but the racoons vacuum them off the bushes, if I wait too long. The flame grape isn't a muscadine, but it is very tasty table grape that doesn't get fungus in central Florida. They too, will be picked clean by racoons if I wait too long to harvest. I have flowered the vanilla bean orchid, but haven't tried my hand at pollination. They need to get long and leggy > 6 feet to bloom. Also, the blossom will fade fast before 9 Am., so you need to get out at night to try your hand at pollinating them. Nancy Baron mailto:sergius1@bellsouth.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - El Cajon, California Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 07:20:48 -0800 (PST) From: Connie Beck My name is Connie Beck, in El Cajon I have an acre on an east facing slope in Rancho San Diego. It is totally frost free and I don't get ANY chill hours! My apricot and nectarine therefore do not do anything except leaf out in the spring and then drop their leaves in the winter! So I am much more successfully growing avocados and citrus. After a visit to Thailand last summer I also planted Dragonfruit and Longan. I'm thinking about removing the apricot and nectarine and replacing them with a Floridaprince peach and a mango. Any comments or advice? I am an organic gardener (and instructor) and fertilize with well-rotted horse manure and kelp only. My trees are quite happy with this regimen and so am I! I look forward to getting your e-newsletter! Thanks, Connie Beck mailto:Holisticgardener@yahoo.com We must be the change we wish to see in the world. --Mahatma Gandhi ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Hawaii, Growing Unusual Rare Fruit Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 10:03:09 -1000 From: Ana Frederick Hi: I live in Hawaii and am a plant psycho. I just started to get into plants recently, and have just discovered the pleasure of growing. So far, I have a mangosteen, garcinia prainiana, rheedia brasiliensis, rheedia madruno, mamey sapote, longan, Fijian longan, cacao, matisia, marang, lychee, ice cream bean, mangos, papaya, bananas, brazilian cherry, sapodilla, black sapote, white sapote, star apple, cashew, rollinia, posh te, langsat longkong, vanilla, jaboticaba, coffee, abiu, oranges, nuts, and a gazillion fragrant flower plants/trees. I am desperately looking for a source for plantonia insignis. I've tried just about every nursery online, and no one has anything, not even seeds. Does anyone here know where I can find seeds? Or, has anyone tasted this fruit, apparently called bacuri? Thank you. Ana Frederick Honolulu, HI mailto:ana@onevai.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Flowering Pomegranate Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 09:30:01 -0500 From: EricJK32@charter.net I have a question about a double flowering pomegranate. When I bought this pom it was labeled as "Wonderful". I believe it was mislabed though. Does anyone know if Carnation Flowering pomegranates are capable of producing any fruit at all. The images I took are from July 2005, since then it grew from 4 feet to about 8 1/2 so I guess it is not a dwarf type. Also it flowers from spring thru fall. Other than that I don't know what kind it is or if it can produce. If it can't produce I guess I will move it from its spot since it is in the hottest most sheltered spot in my yard and plant a fruiting type. View this flowering plant at: http://webpages.charter.net/ericinwv/Pomegranate/ Thanks for any kind of help. Regards, Eric in Charleston, West Virginia mailto:EricJK32@charter.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jujubes in NW Florida? Source Information Needed Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 09:00:07 -0600 From: Bill Burson Hi, This is Bill Burson, formerly of Poway, California. My family & I have moved to the Pensacola, FL area & would like to see if you have any suggestions of plant material (hopefully trees or perennials) that may thrive here including any varieties of Jujubes. We have planted some stone fruits & will be putting some standard citrus in the ground this year, I miss the selection of nurseries that I took for granted in San Diego. The winters are a little colder, the rainy season is longer, the soil is sandier, it is far more humid & the mosquitoes are large enough to file a flight plan & fly in formation Bill Burson mailto:powaybill@mchsi.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Apricot dilemma Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 14:36:52 -0800 From: N Sterman Hiya! I have an apricot dilemma. I have an apricot tree that has been in the ground for at least 9 years. It has a lovely shape, but in all that time, has produced probably 6 fruit. My garden is approx sunset zone 23 and this tree sits in one of the coolest spots. It is a Katie grafted with at least a half dozen other varieties, all forgotten by now. I am ready to take it out but before I do, I am wondering whether you have any other suggestions. I hate to take out a mature tree... Thanks for your help! Nan Nan Sterman mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com Encinitas, CA 92023 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Apricot dilemma Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 19:28:34 -0800 From: JosŽ Miguel Gallego To: Nan Sterman Hi Nan, First: don't take it out!!! :^) Right now is an excellent time to get scions of known cultivars to graft them to it. There are several excellent apricots available which are also great producers. For example, last night Jim had two cultivars which he brought to the scion exchange of the North County Chapter: Early Gold and Hotck (sp?) Kiss apricots. They produce in sequence, so you can also have an extended production of apricots. I have the remaining cuttings which I was planning to take to the San Diego meeting on Thursday, I can save a few for you and, if you would like, we can graft them to your tree... just let us know. The Orange County is having their exchange on the 28th and members bring in quite a collection of apricot cultivars, we can get you other cultivars. Also, since it already has several grafts, it may be a nutrition issue. How is the soil? Have you fertilized it? Did the leaves look healthy before it went dormant? How do the grafts look? Just don't give up on that tree... for now :^) JosŽ Miguel Gallego mailto:JMGallego@LosGallego.Com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) From: Annabell Skripek Date: Saturday, January 21, 2006 4:12 PM Hi there, I am looking for a 5 gallon avocado tree that is producing fruit. My mom has grown about three from seed and one of them is about 6-8 years old and is not producing fruit. I am afraid that it's a dud tree? Would a grafter be able to graft it so it produces fruit, or should I just buy a new tree? Question #2: My sapote trees are tall but not blooming. I have two and my mom has pruned it a bit so that they don't grow too tall but it's been years... Question #3: If orange trees and "lima" trees produced fruit but are not any more, what am I doing wrong? The lima tree is from Bolivia and we've never seen anything like that here in San Diego. My uncle has a Pacay tree (ice cream beans tree?) but he can't ever harvest his fruit b/c the tree is so tall!!! (funny). Anyways, I am interested in attending your next meeting and hope to go but meanwhile would like to know if you can answer some of my questions? Thank you for your time, Annabell Skripek mailto:annabell@skripek.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Question(s) regarding avocado, sapote and orange trees (lima in Spanish) Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 20:55:38 -0800 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: Annabell Skripek Hi, Anabell. I hope that you do make the next meeting. I also recomend that you visit http://www.rarefruit.com/ and subscribe to the email newsletter. I'm copying this to there. You'll get some other opinions. The avocado thing is simple. Seedlings take a long time to produce and are often not very good. You wouldn't know it from avocados that you buy but there are all kind of bitter, astringent, fiberous etc. characteristics that can be present. Surest thing is to graft your seedlings over to something known and good. This a good time of year to bring this up. There is always a huge variety of avocado graft wood up at the Orange County Chapter's Scion Exchange. That is next weekend. I don't know enough to comment on your other questions. Take care. David Silverstein mailto:david.crfg-sd@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon fruit Pitaya Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 18:09:04 +0000 From: John Koman Dear Sir: I am researching this fruit and trying to discover if dragon fruit is a general name for any epiphyte or is it specifically H. undatus? Can you clear this up? I would like to grow this but so far I cannot seem to get clarification. I see that a few species.... "Pitaya, Pitahaya, Dragon Fruit, and other synonyms for Hylocereus undatus, H. Polyrhizus, and other H. spp. are raised for their delicious and attractive fruit." Are mentioned , even the spp. type so could you shed some light on this. The net seems to keep referring back to your .com so I thought I would ask you. John Koman - Ventura, CA mailto:johnkoman@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dragon fruit Pitaya Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 18:01:35 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: John Koman I think the Vietnamese adopted the name "Dragon Fruit" to give the fruit a mystique, much the same way the name "Kiwi" was used to jazz up the image of the fruit formerly called the Chinese Gooseberry. It seems to have originally been applied only to he fruit of H. undatus but has become a blanket term for fruit of all Hylocereus and possibly Yellow Pitayas as well. That's my opinion. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jan 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Date: Mon, 23 Jan 2006 14:25:23 -0800 From: Zhenxing Fu A friendly reminder: your CRFG membership is overdue. Please renewal your membership by contacting: Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 Tel: (619) 440 2213 mailto:vicechair@crfgsandiego.org An exciting event upcoming is the California Cherimoya Association annual meeting this year on February 18, 2006 at the University of California South Coast Research & Extension Center 7601 Irvine Blvd., Irvine, CA. 10 AM to 3PM. A copy of the registration sheet is attached. Pruning Expert Eph Konigsberg, Karen Firestein of the USDA Cooperative Center, UC Cooperative Extension Tropical Fruit Specialist Dr. Gary Bender and Scott Van Der Kar of Pine Hill Ranch in Carpinteria will all speak. There will also be a team of grower specialists in cherimoyas to answer questions. Our Event will include a tour of the Cherimoya Collection at the University of California South Coast Field Station. The 2006 Budwood program is available to members and non-members alike by registering prior to February 8, 2006 and designating your cultivar choices. Grafted Cherimoya Trees in nursery liners are available for sale and will be available to everyone but will be offered first to Association members. A delicious Hawaiian barbecue lunch is available to those who register by February 8, 2006. (Note: This is a very worthwhile event for Cherimoya enthusiasts. The lunch is great as is the opportunity to taste various cultivars.) And from CRFG friend and supporter, Nan Sterman, I pass this along about her new gardening show on TV and website. Show is A Growing Passion on KPBS, channel 15/cable 11. A Growing Passion is all about passionate gardeners and their gardens. In each episode Nan introduces viewers to some of her absolutely favorite gardens. She meets their owners, many of whom are also responsible for creating and maintaining these amazing gardens. These are ordinary people who happen to be extraordinary gardeners. They talk about how their gardens got started, the help they have gotten along the way, what they give to their gardens and what the gardens give back. The first episode ran in late December for those of us lucky enough to catch it. Look for more information at http://www.agrowingpassion.com/ . Finally take a look at the draft calendar below. That is our year. Note some changes from our ordinary schedule, dictated to us by the Botanical Garden Foundation. DAVID SILVERSTEIN David Silverstein Chair (619) 523 8565 chair@crfgsandiego.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Source for Cherimoya Fruit Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 15:34:04 -0800 From: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Hi, Leo. I'm looking for a retail source (preferably mail-order) for cherimoyas. I live in northern California. Any suggestions? Thanks. Kurt Mize Stockton, CA mailto:km1542@att.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Where Should I Locate To Grow Jackfruit, Papaya? Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 17:38:45 +0100 From: Siraj Chowdhury Dear Sir/Madam, I shall greatly appreciate your valuable advice: in which area in California we can grow Jackfruit, Papaya and Banana in California. Thank you. Siraj Chowdhury mailto:chowdhury1@un.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 14:21:49 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury Jack fruit will be hardest to grow, requiring the most heat and demanding that it stay above frost/freeze. So Southern California and probably a bit inland would be best. Then both papaya and banana will easily grow as well. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 15:49:53 +0100 From: Siraj Chowdhury Dear Leo, Many thanks for your prompt reply. As I am planning to retire from the UN, I am particularly interested to start a farm to grow jackfruit, papaya and banana. If your time permits, I shall greatly appreciate your advising me which area or the county in the South California would be most suitable. Thanking you again, Siraj D. Chowdhury Head, Administrative Legal Unit (ALU) Office of the Director of Administration United Nations Mission in Kosovo (UNMIK) Pristina, Kosovo mailto:chowdhury1@un.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit, Papaya Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:22:17 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Siraj Chowdhury You will find that there are several obstacles to your plan. The cost of land is very expensive in California. Water is expensive and not a dependable resource, as drought would limit the amount available, with first priority going to the cities. The cost of the imported fruit of those trees is quite high, coming from countries where the costs of labor and land are much lower than ours. Advice from the state agriculture department as to climate studies that have been done should be sought so you can decide where to locate. There are areas of the state where the microclimate is suprisingly sub-tropical, where frosts and freezes seldom if ever occur. South Florida has better climate for jackfruit and other fruits with even more tropical requirements. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pitahaya Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 10:17:41 -0800 From: Joanne Gram Dear Dragon Fruit Grower and Publisher, I found you on the web from a Google search and I thought you might be interested in this article for our Huntington Desert Garden newsletter, The Jumping Cholla. We hope that it may be on-line soon atÊ http://www.huntington.org Other issues of the Jumping Cholla are found at http://www.huntington.org/botanicalÊ Sincerely,Ê Joanne Gram, Co-Editor Strawberry Pear/Dragon Fruit/Pitahaya Fruits of Cacti by Joanne Gram The Cactus and Succulent Society of America's journal for November-December 2005 has a few surprises inside.Ê Gavin Hart of Australia has produced a fascinating article onÊ Ê the ÒDragon Fruit.ÓÊ It even includes a photo of a plantation in New South Wales at latitude 29¡ South (the Vallance Orchard Nursery), and an ad for dragon fruit.Ê The fruit was also featured recently in the LA Times.Ê Outside of Australia it is cultivated in Southern California in Fallbrook and the Coachella Valley, Israel, Vietnam, Mexico, Central America (e.g., Nicaragua) and South America (e.g., Colombia).Ê Agricultural scientists have visited the Huntington Botanical Gardens in the past to observe our plants, and have obtained seeds and cuttings in order to hybridize the fruit. The French introduced Hylocereus undatus to Vietnam 100 years ago, and it is the country's most profitable crop.Ê The flower is one of the largest in the cactus family and may exceed 40 cm in length and have a 20 cm diameter (a foot is about 30 cm).Ê These are the premier cactus fruit and they have no spines.Ê Instead, they have medium-sized fleshy Òscales.Ó In the Americas they are called the strawberry pear and in Asia, the dragon fruit.Ê Matt Stevens, Editor of the Huntington New Frontiers, said while traveling he found out that dragon fruit is his favorite fruit.Ê Hart lists over sixty other kinds of cacti that produce various fruits with marketing potential, including our very spiny prickly pears, Opuntia.Ê The Huntington Desert Garden has perhaps ten dragon fruit plants which include the genera, Hylocereus,with its elongated and tri-flattened stems, and Selenicereus, with its cylindrical, very elongated stems.Ê Both of these are found climbing sometimes to spectacular heights on our palm trees in the upper part of the Desert Garden.Ê They grow semi-epiphytically with their many short, brown aerial roots clinging to the trees and collecting the dew at night. These species originated in tropical America and have even been observed hanging onto cliffs on barren ocean islets near Panama. Ê Two species,Ê Hylocereus polyrhizus and Selenicereus megalanthus, are promoted by an Australian nursery, Daley's Fruit Tree Nursery http://www.daleysfruit.com.au.Ê Dragon fruit is also grown in the Northern Territory of Australia by Karlsson Tropical Fruits at 12¡S.Ê In Adelaide, South Australia, at 35¡ S, you can buy dragon fruits ofÊ Hylocereus undatus.Ê In Adelaide, you can buy the fruits for $4 each, and in Vietnam, local dragon fruits sell for 25 cents each. Ê Sometimes these fruits, from Hylocereus polyrhizus, are called pitahayas.Ê The article has a picture of a cut fruit that is red inside and that weighs over a pound.Ê An ad is pictured with the phrases: ÒRed Dragon Fruit, I'm ideal for decoration and garnishing, Eat me fresh with lemon or lime juice, I'll store up to 3 weeks in the fridge, I have rich, deep red pulp inside, Use me as a base for drinks, Delicious with ice cream, I'm a great mixer with lemonade, Enjoy the world's latest fruit sensation.Ó For home gardens, Harrisia pomanensis (H. bonplandii) is recommended by Gavin Hart because the plant is smaller and produces abundant although different fruit at a latitude similar to ours.Ê This one is native to Argentina, Bolivia and Paraguay.Ê The fruits are 5 cm in diameter and the flesh is white, crunchy and juicy with many small black seeds. The website http://www.rarefruit.com/pitahayabook.html and e-mail rarefruit@san.rr.com will provide information from a California grower. Joanne Gram mailto:jhgram@earthlink.net <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 18:04:04 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Nave Subject: Pawpaws-great discussion of flavors The following link has a very good discussion of pawpaws with photos. In particular there is a great discussion of pawpaw flavors and the primary author's thought that pawpaw edibility should be evaluated at three different stages. I'm not sure about three stages but I do think that pawpaws should be eaten and evaluated at two different stages--when still quite firm and when soft-because they are in some ways different fruits at those stages. http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/forum/27783.html ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 12:12:22 -0500 From: Subject: Miracle Fruit In Pill Form Here is an article about miracle fruit in a new commercial pill form.... http://www.food-business-review.com/article_news.asp?guid=DCF7D565-F10B-45F9-B58E-6B611CFF59BC ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 14:03:52 -0000 From: "brbrunner" Subject: Miracle fruit tablets available online The new miracle fruit tablets are now available online... see this article: http://www.japantimes.co.jp/cgi-bin/getarticle.pl5?nn20060118f2.htm Here is the website (now if we could only get Ken to translate it for us!!!): http://www.miracle-fruit.net/ Bryan Puerto Rico ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 01:00:59 -0000 From: "rarefruit2003" Subject: Grafting Made Easy by using Parafilm M I wrote this for Florida Gardening Magazine. Parafilm for me is the only way. Sorry, but the photos were removed. If anyone wants the word.doc please let me know and I can e-mail the word file. Thanks! Charles Grafting Made Easy By Charles Novak Scion: The part of a plant used for grafting upon the rootstock. Rootstock: The root-bearing plant on which the Scion will be grafted. Parafilm M: A stretchable, wax-like tape. The product has been widely used for routine laboratory work for many years. Why Graft? Some varieties of plants do not come true from seeds. Difficult or impossible to reproduce from cuttings or other propagation techniques. Using a rootstock better adapted to the prevailing soil and climate than scion produced naturally. Dwarfing rootstock can be used to greatly reduce the size of the tree. To increase the supply of new varieties rapidly. Change a tree from an old to a new variety. Grafted fruit trees have earlier fruit productions. Multiple grafts to produce a tree with several varieties or flowering plant with several different colors of flowers Rootstock can be selected for characteristics that the scion may not have, such as resistance to root rot or is tolerance to parasitic organisms; such as nematodes, insect larvae or other subterranean pests. What is Grafting? Grafting is the process of joining two or more different plants and enabling them to grow as one. The upper part of the graft (the scion) becomes the top of the plant; the lower portion (the rootstock) becomes the root system or part of the trunk. Although grafting usually refers to joining only two plants, it may be a combination of several. What are the limitations? Not all plants can be grafted. Plants of the same botanical genus and species can usually be grafted even though they are not the same variety. Plants with the same genus but of a different species may often be grafted. For the most successful grafting only chose closely related plants to form a compatible union. Generally, this means apple-to-apple, rose-to-rose. Incompatible grafts may not form a union, or the union may be weak. A poor union results in plants that grow poorly, break off or eventually die. Trial is the only way to determine plantsÁ| compatibility. Some rootstock and scion materials are difficult to get and some plants are not as easily grafted. This can often result in a quite high percentage of loss. This explains why some grafted trees are more expensive. How to Collect and Store Scions? Scion wood can collected when available. It should have a diameter of 1/4 to 3/8 inch. Length of scion can be from a few inches to more than 2 feet. Defoliate the scion and wrap the entire scion - cuts, buds, and stem - in stretched Parafilm M. Wrapping scion with Parafilm M beneficially conserves the internal moisture of the plant tissue. Parafilm M stretches; therefore, a little goes a long way. Cut the Parafilm M into two one inches strips. If the scion cannot be grafted when obtained, store the scion in a plastic bag in the refrigerator with moist paper towels until performing the graft. If wrapped in Parafilm M the scion can be stored for many weeks. Do not store in a freezer. When to Graft? It is best to graft in the spring, from the time the buds of rootstock trees are beginning to open, until blossom time. The usual time is April or early May. But this should not limit you from grafting at anytime of the year. Graft when scions become available. What Tools and Materials are Needed? Knife. A good quality knife, able to hold a sharp edge, is the key to good grafting. Special grafting and budding knives are desirable. Keep material to sharpen the knife handy. Pruning Shears. Grafting tape. Parafilm M. Fungicide ÁV Spray bottle of Alcohol. Label spray bottle. Clothes pins. Label for identifying the rootstock and scion (Name, variety, and date of the graft). Grafting Techniques Defoliate the scion and wrap the entire scion - cuts, buds, and stem - in Parafilm M; (remember to stretch the Parafilm M) the buds will grow through the Parafilm M without damage or restriction. (Note: Parafilm M is heat- and photosensitive and decomposes when exposed to direct sunlight for longer than a few minutes.) Store in a cool location. There are many different types of grafting techniques. The cleft graft is one of the most commonly used and the simplest type of graft to perform. 1. Fungicide tools and hands - spray hands, grafting knife and pruning shears with alcohol. 2. Match the scion and rootstock diameters precisely; this maximizes the chance of matching the cambiums. 3. The defoliated scion from a healthy plant should contain at least one completely dormant node on second-year wood which has had all soft, active growth removed. 4. The stock should be an actively growing seedling (do the grafting during the warmer months ÁV in Florida grafting can be done year round). 5. (See diagram below) Cut the scion (A) and fashion its base into a thin, narrow wedge. A large contact surface area will increase the rate of healing. (Hardness part of a cleft graft) Do not touch the cut surfaces, or allow them to dry out. 6. Cut the rootstock at right angles to the stem in mature wood preferably close to a node. Make (B) a single vertical cut down the middle of the stem. The cut should be the same length as the wedge of the scion. Make sure that all cuts are straight and precise; use a very sharp grafting knife (Rock the knife back and forth ÁV use care not to cut yourself). Do not touch the cut surfaces, or allow them to dry out. 6. Force (C) the wedge into the slit which was made in the rootstock; no gaps should be apparent. Always match the cambium layers on one side during the tying process; donÁ|t worry if both sides are not matching 7. Wrap the graft with stretched Parafilm M. Ensure that all points are covered with Parafilm M. Air and water must be excluded from the graft-point if a successful union is to occur. 8. Wrap the (D) graft firmly with Grafting tape, tying from just below the graft and working up. Care should be taken not to force the scion from the stock when traversing the join. Clothespins can help hold the graft together while wrapping with grafting tape. 9. Label graft with name, variety, rootstock and date of the graft. 10. Place the plant in a stress-free environment such as a shaded (50-90%) area. 11. Examine regularly. The dormant nodes should burst in about 3 to 4 weeks. Remove any buds that develop below the graft point. 12. Remove the grafting tape at a later date. Some reasons for Graft Failure. Rootstock and scion were not compatible. The cambiums were not meeting properly. Scions were upside down (Some plants can be successful grafted upside down). Grafting was done at the wrong time of the year (Most plant can be grafted year around). Rootstock or scion were not healthy Scions were dried out or injured by cold. The scion was displaced by storm, birds, or other means. Insects or disease attacked the graft. The graft union was girdled because tape was not cut or released in time. But the main reason for Failure is not trying! <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Plant Compounds Could Aid Blood Flow Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 07:52:17 -0500 From: ARS News Service View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr An Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientist has identified, defined and developed look-alike versions of two potentially heart-healthy compounds produced naturally by plants. Sufficient amounts of the compounds--either in foods or as dietary supplements--may prove to inhibit the early stages of blood clotting that are associated with heart disease. The research was conducted by ARS biochemist Jae B. Park at the Beltsville (Md.) Human Nutrition Research Center's Phytonutrient Laboratory. The chemical structures of the two compounds and their biological activities were detailed in a 2005 patent application. Rigorous testing and regulatory approval are required before any products based on the compounds are released. Park synthesized a larger quantity of the compounds than is likely found naturally in foods. In separate tests, he exposed each compound to blood collected from mice. Both compounds suppressed a natural process in which platelets--disk-shaped cells circulating in the blood--stick to other blood cells inside blood vessel walls. Platelets release chemicals that cause the cascade of events that results in formation of plugs, or clots, at the site of injury within blood vessels. At this time, it is not known whether the amounts of these newly identified compounds normally present in foods are sufficient to cause the inhibitory effect on platelets. Park is now studying the compounds in a number of plant sources to gauge their potency. Read more about this research in the January 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/plant0106.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of AgricultureÕs chief scientific research agency. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rooting for Helpful Fungi Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2006 09:32:47 -0500 From: ARS News Service View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr Beneficial soil fungi that help plants grow could become easier for farmers to use, based on research by Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists who are studying these valuable organisms. The fungi, called mycorrhizal fungi, live inside and outside root cells and help them reach for nutrients by extending long threads called hyphae into the soil. The plant, in exchange, provides the fungi glucose and possibly other organic materials that they need to survive. Unfortunately, modern agricultural practices have reduced populations of arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi, the most common type. By learning more about AM fungi physiology and finding ways to grow colonies without host plants, ARS scientists at the Eastern Regional Research Center in Wyndmoor, Pa., hope to make the fungi a practical option for producers. Currently, researchers cannot cultivate an AM fungus without a host because the fungus can't complete its life cycle without the organic nutrients or other stimuli it receives from roots. Gerald Nagahashi, a chemist/cell biologist at ERRC, has been focusing on the events that must occur before the fungus can colonize a host plant. He developed a bioassay showing that host root components--including chemical compounds exuding from the roots, root caps and root border cells--induce fungal hyphal branching. The increase in branching creates a greater potential for the fungus to find and attach to the host root surface. Nagahashi and David D. Douds, an ERRC microbiologist, investigated how environmental factors, such as chemical compounds from host roots, blue light from the sunÕs spectrum, and carbon dioxide, affect AM fungal growth, either individually or together. Their techniques involved growing host roots in sterile culture and using sterile fungal spores to study various environmental factors individually or in combination. They found that these three factors--root chemicals, blue light and carbon dioxide--can all work independently to promote growth in AM fungi but are even more effective when applied together. Read more about this research in the January 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jan06/root0106.htm <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200602A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - February 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200602B.txt _______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Second Knee Replacement Surgery 2/17 I need it but had hoped to get it in January. Our recent warm weather has had weeds coming up all over. I'll be getting a Mexican worker to help me keep up with them. It's hard to get much physical work done with crutches. Recent warm weather has several fruit trees showing bloom earlier than normal. Most mango trees are also beginning to bloom, even Kent and Keitt, which still have most of their fruit. Tell us what's happening in your yard. Have you come across any interesting and useful web pages? <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> I Would Love To Get Your Newsletter E-Mails Kathy Diewald New Subscriber, Louisiana, Has Rare Fruit Ambition James Shoop <><><> Readers Write <><><> Re: White sapote dilema Eunice Messner To: annabell@skripek.net I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees in Stockton, CA MIZE, KURT Re: I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees Eunice Messner To: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Re: Apricot dilemma Matthew Shugart To: nsterman@PlantSoup.Com El Cajon, frost, and chill hours Matthew Shugart To: holisticgardener@yahoo.com Rare Fruit News Online - Mine Stopped Oliveira Silva Florida Citrus Canker Update Shirley Dellerson Looking for pawpaw scions Michael Zarky Ventura and Santa Barbara CRFG February '06 Norman Beard Pike fruit from Brazil - Information Needed Jaime Arango <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: I Would Love To Get Your Newsletter E-Mails Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 21:35:04 -0800 (PST) From: Kathy Diewald Dear Leo, My name is Kathy Diewald, we live in Costa Mesa, CA. We moved into our house in 1979. We planted avocados, oranges, lemon, lime, macadamia nuts, guavas of all sorts, feijoas, pomegranates, jiro (mislabeled fuyu) persimmons, passion fruit, grapes, raspberries, boysenberries, apples, pears, figs, kumquats and cherimoyas. Some of the above we have numerous varieties of them. Thank you, Kathy Diewald mailto:mccwald@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Louisiana, Has Rare Fruit Ambition Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:27:42 -0600 From: James Shoop Hey, I've been enjoying the archives of your newsletter, and thought I'd sign up. My name is James Shoop. I live in Southeastern Louisiana, north of Lake Ponchatrain. Not quite a tropical climate, but I'm interested in growing in pots and bringing things in during freezes, which are not too terribly common. I'd also like to build a greenhouse soon. Among the rare fruits I'm currently growing (or trying to) are Jujube, Medlar, Paw Paw, Chinese Haw, Kiwi (I guess not so rare), goumi. The only "tropical" fruits I'm growing right now several citrus trees. That will soon change, hopefully. I like to grow mangoes, passionfruit, starfruit, and several others. I also grow more common fruits. I have one acre of blueberries and several pear trees and some peaches, etc. I'm very interested in commercial cultivation of Pawpaws, Asimina triloba. James mailto:wrath.of.achilles@gmail.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Re: White sapote dilema Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2006 09:33:39 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: annabell@skripek.net Annabell Don't give up on your white sapote tree. I had a grafted McDill sapote that took eight years before it fruited. It became an enormous tree that I doubt could ever be contained by pruning. It was so messy that I took it out. I now have a "Nettie" , pear shaped fruit that I like better. It fruits more sparingly in July and December/January. Alas, it is also a big tree. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees in Stockton, CA Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2006 15:24:00 -0800 From: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Hi, Leo. I'm looking for a retail source (preferably mail-order) for cherimoya trees. I live in northern California. Any suggestions? Thanks. Kurt Mize Stockton, CA mailto:km1542@att.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: I Need a Source for Cherimoya Trees Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 09:38:01 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner To: "MIZE, KURT (PB)" Kurt The California Rare Fruit Growers website has a list of member nurseries. www.crfg.org You will find there a list of where to buy cherimoya trees. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Apricot dilemma Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 11:34:05 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart To: nsterman@PlantSoup.Com Nan, I have grown several varieties of apricot over the last decade, formerly in Carlsbad and now in Bonsall. From previous correspondence, I would guess that your typical amount of chill is somewhat greater than I got in Carlsbad, and less than I get on the lowest part of my current property in Bonsall. Chill is not the only limiting factor for apricots in southern California, but it is probably the biggest one. Katy is recommended by many local nurseries, but in my experience is neither particularly reliable, nor a very high quality fruit. Gold Kist is also recommended, and while it is high quality, it is also not very reliable. In my experience at both locations, the most reliable varieties have been Newcastle and Royal, with Newcastle slightly more reliable. I also think Newcastle is superior in flavor to all other varieties I have grown, other than Moorpark (which is marginal on the chilling for me in Bonsall). I have seen Katy listed as requiring 250 chill hours, which is laughable. Gold Kist is said to be 300-400, which is also worth a chuckle or two. I keep detailed temperature, bloom, and production records, and Newcastle is the only variety that I can say with some confidence has a chilling requirement below 400 hours, although contrary to most printed sources, I think Royal probably has, too. The two new late-season apricots (Earli Autumn and Autumn Glo) also look like they will be good, though perhaps not heavy bearers. I have had them for only two years, so it's hard to say. I never tried them in Carlsbad, but I did grow Autumn Royal, which fruited in colder years, but tends to crack, and is not nearly as late as Earli Autumn and Autumn Glo. I am also a big fan of the Flavor Delight Aprium, which tastes like an extremely rich apricot and appears to have quite a low chilling requirement. (I never tried it in Carlsbad, however.) I am with Jose: Don't take the tree out. Graft! Put Royal, Newcastle and other varieties on it, and I am sure you will have some good fruit! Matthew http://fruits.fruitsandvotes.com mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: El Cajon, frost, and chill hours Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 11:41:46 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart To: holisticgardener@yahoo.com Dear Connie: Welcome to Leo's list! You note that you do not get fruit on your nectarine and apricot trees and that you get no frost or chill on an east-facing slope in Rancho San Diego. Before taking the trees out, you should identify the varieties (if you do not already know), and consider grafting on to the limbs of your existing trees. You do not need to have frost to accumulate chill, and while slopes (especially east-facing, which warm up quickly in the morning) would not get much chill, you almost certainly get some (and probably more than you think!). Paul Fisher is on a hilltop in El Cajon, and if you look around his location, you would never imagine that he would get any chill--and he doesn't get any frost. Yet he has numerous varieties of stone fruit that are very successful on the lower part of his slope (and even his 'low' parts are still well above the valley). On specific varieties, see my message to Nan (like this one, copied to Leo and thus presumably to be in the next RFNO) on apricot varieties. On peaches and nectarines, in my opinion there are many low-chill varieties that are better than Flordaprince. For instance, Tropic Snow, Desert Delight, Arctic Star, etc. Matthew http://fruits.fruitsandvotes.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rare Fruit News Online - Mine Stopped Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2006 20:35:32 -0200 From: "Oliveira.Silva@terra.com.br" Hi Leo Manuel I don't receive the biweekly bulletins there are several months. I want to continue receiving the messages. Thiago Patos de Minas Brasil mailto:oliveira.silva@terra.com.br ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Florida Citrus Canker Update Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:08:32 -0500 From: Shirley Dellerson Hi Leo: A while ago I wrote about how unfair the citrus eradication program here in Florida was and my concern over losing my trees - Well guess whatÜthe program has been cancelled. NO trees will be cut down - that includes those already infected with canker! I was lucky and so were my trees - Not so for my neigbors, including one man who lost 13 trees just 6 weeks ago to the "axe". Sometimes it does pay to fight. Thanks for all the kind words of encouragement from many of the subscribers. Shirley (West Palm Beach, FL) mailto:shaindy@mindspring.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking for pawpaw scions Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 07:42:30 -0800 From: Michael Zarky Hi Leo, That was a very useful link to the Cloudforest Cafe about pawpaws, in the last issue. Thanks for all your work in putting out RFNO. I'm looking for pawpaw scion wood. I wonder if any readers has some to share. I have some seedlings I would like to graft over (none has flowered yet); the local scion exchanges rarely have any paw paws. I have Sunflower surviving from the original 4 varieties I bought. It's a bit of a struggle here with the alkaline soil and water. I'd be happy to share the Sunflower and I also have some interesting peach varieties, one quite low chill, and other things that I can share. Please email me directly. Thank you, Michael mailto:mzarky@earthlink.net Moorpark, CA USA 93021 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Ventura and Santa Barbara CRFG February '06 Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 20:41:40 -0800 From: Norman Beard Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter February, 2006 FEBRUARY MEETING When: February 25, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon Where: Monte Vista Elementary School, 730 N. Hope Ave., Santa Barbara. Directions: From the South: In Santa Barbara, exit 101 Fwy at La Cumbre/Hope Ave. Go STRAIGHT; you'll be on Hope Ave. going towards the mountains. Proceed past State Street (La Cumbre Plaza will be on your left) a few more blocks to 730 N. Hope. to the Monte Vista School. Signs will direct you to the meeting site. From the North: Exit 101 Fwy at La Cumbre Rd. and turn LEFT onto La Cumbre heading towards the mountains. Turn RIGHT onto State Street (La Cumbre Plaza will be on your right) and go one block; turn LEFT onto Hope Ave. and proceed several blocks to 730 N. Hope (see above). Agenda: (i) Apple Grafting; (ii) The Monte Vista Garden Hosts: Dr. Joe Sabol, retired professor of Agriculture; Chapter member Judy Sims Description: APPLE GRAFTING: We are fortunate to have the "King of Apple Grafting" - yes, the King - for this meeting, so don't miss this opportunity to have Professor Joe Sabol, retired from Cal-Poly at San Luis Obispo, teach you apple grafting. Please bring $2 with you, as we must pay for the rootstock and supplies. Norm Beard will bring the buckets and planting mix. Joe has been teaching High School Agriculture classes all over California on how to graft an apple tree. Now it's your turn! Joe will bring with him a good rootstock from Colorado and apple scion wood from member Patricia Bragg's apple orchard. After you have successfully grafted the gala apple tree, it's yours to take home! MONTE VISTA GARDEN: Judy Sims welcomes you to Monte Vista Elementary School, where she enjoyed a 37-year teaching career with various positions. Judy has spearheaded garden and nutrition programs, utilizing grant and community support. She will share the butterfly gardens, half-acre native plant nature trail, vegetable and herb gardens, worm farm, and the recently developed 3,000 sq. ft. orchard garden (to which our Chapter has contributed), where we will meet. SAVE the Date: MARCH MEETING Although not confirmed yet, the meeting will most likely be on March 18th at Alan Schroeder's in Santa Barbara. GROWING CHERRIES by Co-Chair Norm Beard "For your information, at the January meeting, many questions arose about raising Cherries. The cold chill on Cherries is too high for us to raise most Cherries in this area. Today, I spoke to Tom Spellman of Dave Wilson Nursery about the English Morrelo Cherry tree I have growing here and a huge tree I saw at one of our members' home that produces many sour pie cherries. Tom stated even though it calls for 700 chill hours, it probably requires only about 200 chill hours; that is why it is producing a good crop in this location. "Many members want to grow Bing cherry trees; again, they need high chill hours. So what is recommended for this area is a Lapins Cherry tree from Canada. It is self-fruitful and produces large, firm, dark red sweet cherries with good flavor; similar to Van in color and Bing in shape. Sometimes it is sold as a self-fertile Bing, it ripens 4 days after Bing. It requires 500 chill hours, but there has been success in growing these cherries in this area. Both of these trees can be bought from Beard's Nursery at 968-0989." For Membership in California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc, send $30 to CRFG, Inc., Fullerton Arboretum-CSUF, PO Box 6850, Fullerton, CA 92834-6850 AND $10 (for Local Dues) to Roland Messori 355 Sierra Vista Rd., Santa Barbara, CA 93108 Send Address Changes to BOTH the parent and local organizations (addresses above). ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pike fruit from Brazil - Information Needed Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 07:51:41 -0800 (PST) From: Jaime Arango Sir, I am looking for information on a fruit from Brazil called "Pike" that they use for cooking with rice. I need information on availability in the US and planting. Thanks before hand, Jaime <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200602B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - March 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200603A.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Surgery Aftermath - My left knee replacement surgery was Friday, February 17, early afternoon. It's good to have it behind me. The biggest problem I have in working on this newsletter is that my narcotic pain medicine makes it very hard to have a clear head. Also, I'm always sleepy. So, I'm not totally responsible for anything I do with this newsletter. I know you will understand and overlook the blunders. I will make more than the usual number of mistakes because I am trying to use the PowerBook (Apple notebook) computer, which lacks a 'standard' keyboard with external mouse. The other major excuse for errors is that I have hiccoughs (hiccups) that are non-stop for hours at a time, then vanish for a few hours. Don't waste your time telling me remedies, as none work predictably for me (and, I have tried lots of them.) Enough excuses! It's time to get this newsletter out. Anyway, after a few problems, I'm doing very well and progressing at least as well if not better than last time. However, there are some early-spring tasks, such as air-layering, that will have to be postponed. We are getting a significant amount of rain, beginning yesterday in the early afternoon. We really needed it! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Puerto Vallarta Mexico raul gonzalez New Subscriber - Hungtington Beach, CA Carol Hill New Subscriber - Vista, California Paul Barbano <><><> Readers Write <><><> Paw Paw in hot climates? Doug Jones Re: Paw Paw in hot climates? Leo Manuel To: Doug Jones Re: What Is Pike? gerardo garcia To: jimmyarango@yahoo.com leo manuel = racist josŽ perez To: rarefruit@san.rr.com Re: leo manuel = racist Leo Manuel To: josŽ perez Definitive SoCal Apple Guide (Check This Out! -Leo) Joel A. Johnson Dragon Fruit Survive Pennsylvania Winters In Sunroom? NOONE, CHRISTOPHER Papayas (Note: Aussie PawPaw = US Papaya -Leo) Barry Hicks Re: My Experience With Apricots Cheryl Noble Pineapple, Coffee, Mangoe, Sapodilla Todd Abel Re: Pike - Fruit Of Brazil? Kuniko Iwamoto Haga Feb 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Chapter Zhenxing Fu Pitaya fruit for research Jason Avent Leo's Hiccoughs - February, 2006 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex Neotropical Blueberries Scott D. Russell http://www.nybg.org/bsci/res/lut2/ <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Cicada Fungus May Have Medical Potential ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Puerto Vallarta Mexico Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2006 19:40:43 -0600 (CST) From: raul gonzalez Hi Guys, I«m Raul Gonzalez, living in Puerto Vallarta Mexico, I enter in the "rare" fruit world about 3 years ago, now I have about 60-70 dif. Fruits most of them arent bearing yet, I really love annonas I`m looking for atemoya seeds of some cultivar like 48-26, hillari white, page, etc, to trade now I have seeds of ilama, and in the next month some very good custard apples with red skin & purple sweet flesh, if somebody is interested In trading let me know... Raul mailto:raulglezruiz@yahoo.com.mx ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Hungtington Beach, CA Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 12:05:13 -0500 (EST) From: Carol Hill Hi! I found your site by researching dragon fruit on the 'net. I bought one at Mother's Market, shared it with coworkers, and couldn't believe how good it was. I saved the seeds in the flesh, and wanted to know how to propogatge it. My name is Carol Hill and I live in Huntington Beach, CA. Most things grow here, semi-tropical, but it will get frost here, but also hot. Several times I started a batch (13+) of seedling trees from the cherimoya fruit I happened to try. I found out later that was no small fete, and then later I found out a plant reseracher started growing them in Cardiff, California! I looked it up and found out how many nutrients it had in it! I want to grow my trees (I have 10 left, I gave the others as gifts) larger, but have them in a pot right now (they are about a foot high). I also want eventually to grow star fruit, Citriflora Mmorani, and the other ones known for such rich nutrients. I grew up watching my grandmother handle quite a bit of land growing a complete range of fruits, vegetables and fruit trees in Washington (cold1). She even grew watermelon! I feel we all should be livinng like that. Healthier, and more harmonious,and closer to nature. Thank you so much for your wite! What a joy! Happy chatting with you. Bye for now. -- Carol ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Vista, California Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 00:04:41 -0500 From: Paul Barbano Hi, My name is Paul Barbano, in Vista California. So far I am growing papaya and a cara cara pink navel orange tree. I am a lifetime member of seed Savers Exchange and write a weekly garden and farm column for the Cape Gazette newspapers, even though I've been away from Delaware for some years. Please put me on you mailing list. Thanks. Paul mailto:paulbarbano@hotmail.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Paw Paw in hot climates? Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 18:45:46 -0700 From: Doug Jones To: Leo Manuel I enjoy the newsletter every month, although I seldom reply. I reply now to see if anyone has grown pawpaws in a hot climate. I tasted the fruit at a CRFG meeting awhile back and really liked it, so I tried to grow my own. I guess the climate here in Mesa Arizona (near Phoenix) doesn't agree with the trees, because they all succomb to the heat. I've tried 4-5 grafted ones and a number of seedlings and a number of seeds planted in the ground. I'm about ready to give up unless someone knows of a variety or way to beat the heat. Any ideas? Doug Jones mailto:fruitguy@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Paw Paw in hot climates? Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:30:33 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Doug Jones Hi Doug I'll post your question in the next newsletter. Have you tried using shade cloth to reduce the heat? Maybe, with misting, for cooling? Hopefully, someone will have had experience in dealing with this problem. The young trees are frequently growing in shade in the wild. Good luck! Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: re: What Is "Pike"? Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 16:42:10 -0500 From: gerardo garcia To: jimmyarango@yahoo.com Jaime, my guess is you're looking for pequi vinagrero (also called piqui vinagreiro), Caryocar edule, C. nuciferum, C. brasiliense and other Caryocar spp., which have a pulp which is mixed with rice. Go to http://www.bibvirt.futuro.usp.br/especiais/frutasnobrasil/pequi.html and check if this is what you're looking for (if you read Spanish or Portuguese it should be easier, if not just check the pictures). No idea who would have it stateside, though, but if you go to , the website of the Companhia do Vale do Rio Doce, they manage a huge forest reserve in the state of Esp’rito Santo and might be willing to supply you with seeds. Good luck - you'll need it! Gerardo mailto:manilkara@hotmail.com > > Sir, > > I am looking for information on a fruit from Brazil called "Pike" > that they use for cooking with rice. I need information on > availability in the US and planting. > > Thanks before hand, > > Jaime ------------------------------------------------ Subject: leo manuel = racist Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 02:13:13 +0000 From: josŽ perez To: rarefruit@san.rr.com Second Knee Replacement Surgery 2/17 I need it but had hoped to get it in January. Our recent warm weather has had weeds coming up all over. I'll be getting a Mexican worker to help me keep up with them. It's hard to get much physical work done with crutches. I believe you are racist telling this. Can«t you just say will hire a person to help you? You actually must say it«s a mexican worker to whom you«ll pay less since they are alien in your country. Can«t be a person from HonduraS? Russia? Spain? Colombia? You need go to a shrink to get you well. Well, at least God already is teaching you something about being fair with others, especially with those less fortunate. And I want to be deleted from your racist web site. Hope you don«t do well on your surgery. mailto:lecuack23@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: leo manuel = racist Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 09:01:04 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: josŽ perez Hi JosŽ I apologize for offending you. Felipe (the Mexican I referred to in that remark) is a very good friend, who has worked with me for quite a few years in our yard. I pay him much more than minimum wage, because he is invaluable to me. I have used workers from other countries than Mexico, including Gringos of Southern California, but hope Felipe continues to work with me, as he has been the best. I will remove your name from the mailing list when I find it. So far I have not located it either by this email address or by your name. It is a puzzle to me that you could receive messages from here. I can't find your name or email address as ever having been on the mailing list. I am actually glad you wrote about the appearance of racism that may have that may have been present in my remark. Sincerely, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Definitive SoCal Apple Guide (Check This Out! -Leo) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 19:00:19 -0800 From: "Joel A. Johnson" Leo, I don't remember where I got the link, and if it was from the newsletter I bow my head in shame, but your inquiry about "interesting and useful webpages" prompted me to make sure folks knew about the incredible info at http://www.inlandempire-crfg.org/pics_index/Growing_Apples.pdf Surely, a more complete treatise on low-chill apples does not exist! PS. I contacted the listed sources for scion wood, and the response was jaw dropping... Nick Botner sent a 12-page list of apple, pear, cherry, plum, and grape varieties available for $3.50 a piece, and Joyce Neighbors has a large selection of southern apples at $5 including shipping. My order is on it's way! Joel A. Johnson mailto:joel@aridscapes.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit Survive Pennsylvania Winters In Sunroom? Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 13:40:49 -0500 From: "NOONE, CHRISTOPHER" Hello, I live in Bucks County, PA and will be constructing a sunroom/greenhouse in the next couple of months. I have a dragonfruit plant (1 "stalk" about 8 inches long) and am wondering if you think it will do well in a sunroom in PA? Christopher Noone mailto:spacru04@allstate.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Papayas (Note: Aussie PawPaw = US Papaya) Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 09:49:02 +1000 From: Barry Hicks Hello Leo I have a query about male pawpaws (papayas) that someone may be about to help me with. Does anyone know what prompts male pawpaws to fruit? Some trees seem keen to set a crop and others don't. Barry Hicks, Australia mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: My Experience With Apricots Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:53:58 -0800 (PST) From: Cheryl Noble I live off the 94 Freeway in San Diego just before Lemon Grove and I get apricots on several very young trees. Forget frost and there isn't much chill either. The trick that makes apricot happen I learned from a book on pruning. Apricots, peaches, apples and the like are spur fruit. That means they fruit on side shoots, new growth off the main branches. Every year about this time or sooner (like after I harvest all the fruit) I cut the growing tips off the main branches (also to keep the tree shorter for easier picking). This sends side shoots out and when spring comes, out comes the flowers and then fruit follows. I'm having rather good luck with Anna apples also. The trees are tiny but prolific, usually 2 crops of apples a year. The are great for pies, sauce or eating if you like tangy apples. I don't get frost but have been warned it could happen. If I h! ear a frost warning I'd do what my parents did and throw an old sheet or tarp over my banana trees for the night. By the way, I have probably 50 or so fruit trees on a half acre of land, I've been her 4 1/2 years so all are younger than 4 1/2 years old. I use a drip system on timers to water. I'm no expert but I'm having fun and it beats letting the land turn into a weed patch as it was when I bought the place. Cheryl Noble mailto:noble.c@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pineapple, Coffee, Mangoe, Sapodilla Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 19:55:39 -0800 From: Todd Abel We just finished our 5th Pineapple this year. It was excellent and quite large, and the 90 degree heat really ripened it last week. I canÕt believe how well the Pineapples have done. It took about 2 yrs from the tops of fruit. Now I have planted the tops from the five fruit we ate this last year. The Coffee crop is excellent this year. The plants are about 4-5 ft tall, and have over a pound of beans each. I am just not sure how I will try to roast them. The best idea I have read about, was using a mesh roisterer on a barbecue. The Coffee was a joke, just like the Pineapples. WhoÕs laughing nowÉ I have a Mabrouka Mango that has flowered like mad. [Sounds like my "PSM" mango - in continuous bloom December I just hope they can hang in there with the impending cool down this weekend in SoCal. Interestingly the flies love it, but no Bees. The Sapodilla must have over 100 fruits at only 5-6 ft. The tree is very hardy and did not loose any fruit over the winter last year. So good, and worth planting. The Tamarind has two fruit just doing their best to hang in there. The tree has grown to over 8ft, and looking healthy. Again, hope the knee goes well. Todd Abel mailto:table@socal.rr.com Orange, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Pike - Fruit Of Brazil? Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 08:53:02 -0300 From: Kuniko Iwamoto Haga Dear Leo, Do you know another name for it? Kuniko mailto:kuniko@bio.feis.unesp.br >Sir, > >I am looking for information on a fruit from Brazil called "Pike" >that they use for cooking with rice. I need information on >availability in the US and planting. > >Thanks before hand, > >Jaime mailto:jimmyarango@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Feb 06 Newsletter of CRFG San Diego Chapter Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:01:56 -0800 From: Zhenxing Fu For those of you whose membership due is expired, please renew it with Paul Fisher whose contact info is in this newsletter. Thank you very much! Please note that the calendar has been finalized. Paul Fisher was able to get those Friday meetings back to Thursday, including the February meeting. November and December are still third Friday instead of fourth Thursday as usual. Note also, San Diego Home and Garden Show is coming up March 3-5 at the fairgrounds in Del Mar. We want a few good volunteers to staff our place and spread the word about CRFG. Call our own June Anderson at 760 729 3501 to sign up. Parking is 8 dollars, but we will have a couple of parking passes that you can use if you coordinate. David Silverstein -- Chair (619) 523 8565 chair@crfgsandiego.org Paul Fisher --Vice-Chair, Membership Manager and Treasurer (619) 440 2213 Barry Resetco (858) 278-3732 and Jack Skeels (619) 465-3312 Ð Facilities Team Zhenxing Fu -- Newsletter Editor (858) 587-2723 editor@crfgsandiego.org Linnea Lamar, Secretary, 619 392-9815 theearthwalker@cox.net Jim Neitzel (619) 262-8959 and Mike McCright 619-384-1989, Program and Event Coordinators eventscoordinator@cfrgsandiego.org Jose Gallego Ð Webmaster and Director of National Affairs (619) 697-4417 webmaster@crfgsandiego.org Irene Sias Ð Greeter (619) 482-0938 Greeter@CRFGSanDiego.org Oscar Butler Ð Librar’an, 858-458-3533 mbutlr@pacbell.net For membership, please mail your application form and check to: CRFG, San Diego Chapter C/O Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 KUMQUAT MARMALADE á 3 qts. Water á 2 doz. kumquats á 2 med. oranges á 1/3 c. lemon juice á 4 1/2 c. honey 1. Thinly slice the kumquats to measure 2 cups. Slice the orange peel and the orange pulp to measure 1 1/2 cups each. Add the water to the fruit, cover, and let and overnight. 2. Bring to a boil and cook until the peel is tender. Add the honey and stir occasionally until it dissolves. Resume the rapid boil and cook about 45 minutes until the mixture reaches the gel point. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. 3. Spoon into hot sterilized jars to within 1/2 inch from top. Complete seals and process for 10 minutes in a boiling-water bath. 4. Makes 8 half-pints. Zhenxing Fu mailto:zfu@ucsd.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pitaya fruit for research Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2006 19:16:36 -0600 From: Jason Avent My name is Jason Avent, I am a doctoral candidate in Botany at The University of Texas. I am a student in Dr. Tom MabryÕs laboratory and I am very interested in the properties of pitaya fruits. How might I obtain some of the more fluorescent cactus fruits with high pigment concentrations (particularly hylocerenin)? The particular variety of red-purple cactus with high levels of hylocerinin is Hylocereus polyrhizus (Weber) Britton & Rose, Cactaceae. If you know where I might obtain some of this fruit or frozen fruit juice, it would help my research greatly and may make an important niche market for dragon fruit that other betalinic plants will not fill. Best, Jason Avent mailto:jaavent@mail.utexas.edu ------------------------------------------------ Leo's Hiccoughs - February, 2006 I don't believe many people experience the level of hiccoughing that I have had since this recent surgery. Some of the time they have been mild with no evidence of the episodes. I was free of the problem when I began this, so decided to try to describe it at its worst. However, before finishing, it's overtaken me again. The sound made is not a literal "hiccup" with an interval before the next "hiccup." It can instead be "hic-hic-hic-hic-hic..." with no indication of the completion of "cup-cup-cup-cup-cup..." because there is no breath to complete it. Sometimes I couldn't breathe and was fearful, until our pediatrician daughter assured me that while I might pass out, that my body would automatically get control back to breathe. Over the years, I've had maybe a half-dozen episodes of hiccoughs. Once when I had the 'flu back in the sixties it happened. A medical doctor gave me a prescription, but I don't remember whether it helped. Also during recovery from recent surgeries, I had episodes that were a nuisance, but not as disturbing as this most recent time. I apologize for diverting your attention away from fruit issues. Leo <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ Subject: Neotropical Blueberries Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2006 23:44:41 -0600 From: "Scott D. Russell" http://www.nybg.org/bsci/res/lut2/ The Neotropical Blueberries site "brings together as much information as possible about the plant family Ericaceae as it occurs within the Neotropics" (New World tropics -- Tropic of Cancer to Tropic of Capricorn). Much of the site concerns systematics, with detailed genus and species descriptions, dichotomous keys and floristic lists by neotropical country. Additional information is available on ethnobotany, plant/animal interactions, species in cultivation and over 1400 images. This site is by Dr. James L. Luteyn, New York Botanical Garden. (****) <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Cicada Fungus May Have Medical Potential Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2006 09:35:38 -0500 From: ARS News Service Some cicadas harbor a fungus that has biomedical potential, according to Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Cornell University scientists in Ithaca, N.Y. They studied Cordyceps heteropoda, a fungus that grows on and infects some species of cicadas. Plant physiologist Donna Gibson of ARSÕ Plant Protection Research Unit (PPRU) and Cornell research associate Stuart Krasnoff found peptides within C. heteropoda that give it antimicrobial and immunosuppressant properties. They also found that the fungus produces myriocin, a compound being investigated by other scientists for potent immunosuppressant activity that could be a key to preventing post-transplant organ rejection in humans. The peptides are made up of unusual amino acids, one of which causes the peptide to coil into a helical structure, according to Gibson. This, she added, may be useful for engineering molecules, because most drugs and pesticides are modeled after the chemical structures of natural products. Most Americans likely base their recollection of cicadas on their experience with Brood X of Magicicada septendecimthe. ThatÕs the species that emerges every 17 years, mostly in eastern parts of the nation, to pile atop one another on sidewalks, bump into windows and people, and collect in storm gutters as they emerge for their mating cycle. The fungus studied here, however, was taken from Cicadetta puer, an annual cicada that appears from October to February in eastern Australia. It had been placed in PPRUÕs Collection of Entomopathogenic Fungi in 1985. Krasnoff and Gibson came across this C. heteropoda isolate during a molecular screening program started six years ago thatÕs aimed at developing a diverse core collection for identifying novel chemistries. The recent findings have been described in the Journal of Natural Products. Read more about this research in the February 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/feb06/cicada0206.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200603A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - March 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200603B.txt ____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Thanks for your messages of support. I'm progressing very well, but impatient to be out of the house taking care of the plants and weeds. It takes a long time to get the flexibility required to tend to them. We had a few days of heavy rainfall, which were much needed. The temperature has been chilly <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Hollywood, CA Wants Low Chill Gravenstein Apple Walter Blackman New Subscriber, New South Wales, Australia Paul Butler New Subscriber, Mississippi Sandra Jones Subscription Problems With RFNO ChiuMoho@aol.com Re: Subscription Problems With RFNO Leo Manuel ChiuMoho@aol.com New Subscriber, Borneo East Malaysia Kenneth_Hall@oxy.com New Subscriber, Ft. Myers, Florida From Canada GrahBro2@aol.com New Subscriber, Micronesia And Thailand Simon Nicholas Habegger Please add me to your email list Alison Gotts <><><> Readers Write <><><> RE: Pain Medicine Joel vinikoor Lecuack Gerardo Garcia CRFG March '06 Newsletter Ventura/Santa Barbara Chapter Norman Beard RE: Sapodilla Tree ? Todd Abel eamusg@quixnet.net Re: HICCUPS JOHN FREEMAN Re: Mexican Help Cheryl Noble Paw Paw in hot climates? (Rare fruit news online) Nancy rarefruit@san.rr.com Tropical/Carribean fruits Irene Smith Re: Rare Fruit News Online - February 1, 2006 - 1 Ray Balcom Frost-Burned leaves Noatz Mango article Michael Zarky Leo Manuel <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Africanized Honey Bees Are Still on the Move ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber Hollywood Wants Low Chill Gravenstein Apple Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 22:03:02 -0800 From: Walter Blackman I am Walt Blackman, from Hollywood, CA, and grow one Fuyu tree, dwarf Sasuma Tangerine, Lemon Trees, Beverly Hils Apple Tree which has not fruited in the past year, Holiday Avocado and about to plant Anna Apple, Fugi Apple and, if it can bear fruit Gravenstein with our low chill area. All bare root purchased at Home Depot. Also have small fig tree that has not grown very much in past year or two. Have you heard of Gravenstein apples that are successful in our low chill area. I live under the Hollywood Sign. Walt ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, New South Wales, Australia Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2006 16:53:09 +1100 From: Paul Butler Hi My name is Paul Butler Ð I live on 30 acres of beautiful red volcanic soil at 526 Duncan Road, Dunoon in the subtropical paradise of the Northern Rivers area of New South Wales, Australia (post code 2480). This email address will be fine for any contact. I have only just recently moved to the area, and so far have only mangos, custard apples, Black Sapote, Jaboticaba, banana, Pawpaw/Papaya, Brazilian Cherry, Macadamia, Coffee and Guava. I am very keen to put in a heap of other fruit - too many to list, but particularly figs and Carambola. We are basically lifestyle refugees from big city Australia. We have put in a cash crop of Arabica coffee and are working towards a couple of other crops (probably custards and Carambola). I am struggling with the likely consequences for farming (and civilisation as we know it!) of Peak Oil. I am very much a beginner in this area and keen to read of others experiences - especially in growing some of the more tropical species such as Mangosteen in sub-tropical areas. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Mississippi Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 16:28:43 -0600 From: Sandra Jones Would you please send me a newsletter at taelyngrandma@yahoo.com. I currently have wild blackberry, plum, nuscadines,etc. I also have one fruit tree that I cannot name. Birds and animals will not eat the frui off this tree but will ear the leaves. Fruit is wild plum-colors green then red then purple. Somehave powder on it like blueberries. Numbing to tongue when touched. Do you have any ideal what this tree might be? We have found 2 growing on our land so far. May be more. Any help appreciated. Sandra from Mississippi ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Subscription Problems With RFNO Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 12:06:11 -0500 (EST) From: ChiuMoho@aol.com Hi Leo, I haven't received a newsletter in sometime and I hope the computer just lost me rather than you discontinuing the letter. I live in Moreno Valley, CA and have large yard where I am growing star fruit, jujube, guava, Japanese persimmon, meyer lemon, peach, nectarine, mission fig, Manila mango, cheimoya, sapote (seedling) loquat, 2 varieties of pears and dragon fruit (From seeds I brought home from China). Al Turnbull mailto:chiumoho@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Subscription Problems With RFNO Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2006 16:10:42 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: ChiuMoho@aol.com What probably happened is that your server refused email from mine so that I eventually removed your name. This happens a lot and it baffles me. Let me know as soon as you know that your newsletter is not coming, and I can give you a better reason why not. I'll send the most recent couple of issues in a separate email. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Borneo East Malaysia Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 12:59:26 +0400 From: Kenneth_Hall@oxy.com I am Kent Hall, in Labuan (Borneo) East Malaysia GrowingDurian, cempadah, mango, jack fruit, tarap, star fruit, rambutan, and avocado I live on the tropical island of Labuan in east Malaysia. I have an acre of land under cultivation and I am interested in growing some more fruit types. I would be interested in conversing with others of a similar interest. Kent ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Ft. Myers, Florida From Canada Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 11:06:25 -0500 (EST) From: GrahBro2@aol.com My name is Diane Brown. I reside in Ft. Myers Florida approximately half a year, the past seven years. I myself am Canadian. My husband and I purchased here but two years past he has passed away. He was the golfer and I the gardener. It is quite a different matter gardening half a year in one country and half the year in another. Canadian gardening I do understand. Of course, when I drive to Florida the garden has been put to rest until spring of the next year. There is naught to worry about. I have learned though, that I can not overwinter, in Canada, that is, indoors, some trees and plants I had long valued and cared for. Such as figs and persimons. I have lost them all. Family members who did earnestly make efforts to care for them, overcared. As with many tropical perenials. I am not home early enough to put up my Canna lilies and dahlias for an early start etc. So gardening has changed for me in Canada but I have adjusted Here in Ft. Myers I have as well lost young tropical fruit trees over the years. I think they need perhaps more time to be cared for as they become established. This year I did try once again a Black Sapote. I have some interesting plants in my garden in Florida. I am learning what will survive and in what location. It is interesting. I have someone care for the yard while up north but it is difficult to find anyone who does a good job. They say part of the problem is the large amount of rainfall in summer. My tropical fruit trees at this moment than are not great. My interest and love for the plants, is. This web site is amazing. I came across it accidently. I did recently join the Caloosa Rare Fruit Exchange in Ft. Myers, Florida. I hope to learn and perhaps be of some help in this community. Diane Brown dianevibrown@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Micronesia And Thailand Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 00:52:54 +0000 From: Simon Nicholas Habegger My name is Simon Habegger. I live in the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (Micronesia), but have a house in Thailand. The fruit trees that I am growing right now are the soursop, sapodilla, guava, breadfruit, and jackfruit. Trees that I am interested in planting include the jaboticaba, pomegranate, canistel, pejibaye, and sapote. Simon ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Please add me to your email list Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 22:21:54 +1000 From: Alison Gotts I am Alison Gotts, living at Cape Tribulation, 2 hours north of Cairns in Far North Queensland Australia Commercial crops I am growing are mangosteen and salak, but we have more than 150 species growing - lost count actually. There's always room for another one. We're trying to get all the Borneo collection from David Chandlee I am the secretary and the web manager for the Rare Fruits Council of Australia, and the secretary of the local branch of the RFCA at Mossman. We (Digby and me) run exotic fruit tastings every day on our farm for tourists, and a bed and breakfast, with two cottages. (You may have seen our farm and fruit tasting on the Discovery Channel - as a 'secret' of Australia! Part of our farm is included within the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area (the forested bit) Alison Cape Trib Exotic Fruit Farm, Cape Tribulation Exotic Fruit Tasting and B&B Phone 07 4098 0057 http://www.capetrib.com.au <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: RE: Pain Medicine Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 12:22:36 -0500 From: Joel Vinikoor Hi Leo, Take an anti-inflammatory medication such as Advil instead of the narcotic. It must be taken everyday for the maximum dose to get a good effect. Check with you doctor first to see if there is any contra-indications. Thanks, Joel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Lecuack Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 16:27:43 -0500 From: Gerardo Garcia Leo, all I can say about this politically correct idiot, JosŽ PŽrez, is that his e-mail handle, lecuack, speaks volumes. He can go to hell, but hey, perhaps that might offend him if he's an atheist. Better send him "al carajo", as we say here (ask Felipe about this if you don't speak much Spanish). Regards and get well soon, Gerardo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG March '06 Newsletter Ventura/Santa Barbara Chapter Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 23:25:02 -0800 From: Norman Beard CALIFORNIA RARE FRUIT GROWERS, INC. Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter March, 2006 ******MARCH MEETING When: March 18, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon Where: Conejo Valley Botanic Garden, 350 W. Gainsborough Rd., Thousand Oaks; (805) 494-7630; Website: http://conejogarden.org/ Directions: From 101 Fwy, exit at Lynn Road and head north. At The Oaks mall, turn right on W. Hillcrest Dr.; very soon turn left at McCloud Ave. and immediately turn left on Tuolumne. Turn right on Gainsborough Rd.; proceed to #350. For disabled members, for easier access there are a few parking stalls available at an alternative location: Proceed on McCloud Ave (do not turn left on Tuolomne), turn left at St. Charles Pl. and park at the Garden's nursery facility. Description: The Conejo Valley Botanic Garden has 33 acres. Much of it is preserved in a natural setting. The Garden has 16 sections. Our tour will focus on the Rare Fruit and Orchard sections and the Herb Garden. The Rare Fruit Orchard exhibits 130 trees including 40 varieties of temperate, subtropical and tropical edibles from 35 countries. There is also a "Kids Adventure Garden" and a section of worldwide water-conserving flora. A picnic area is available for us to enjoy some extra time there, so bring your own food and drink, and make an afternoon of it. Adjacent to the Garden is Conejo Community Park and the Conejo Open space. Remember, this is a great location for the whole family to enjoy. Very near by is the Park Headquarters of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Sapodilla Tree? Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2006 18:40:27 -0800 From: Todd Abel To: eamusg@quixnet.net Ed, I believe I have corresponded with you before. My Sapodilla is a grafted Alano, and purportedly self-fertile. I only had about 5 egg sized fruit last year, and they were tasty. This year I have at least 50. At first I thought that some pollination by hand helped the first year. This year I hand pollinated only one side of the tree, and both sides are pretty loaded with fruit. The tree is only about 6ft, and in a brick planter of 3ft by 7ft. I have read, and heard, that some are not self-fertile. There is a guy in San Diego doing some heavy duty research on which ones bear the most fruit, but not sure what happened there. As far as fertilizer, I only use organic. I have given this tree coffee grounds (from the coffee machine at work), and also some bone meal in the spring for flowering. Last year I did not give it any bone meal, and it flowered the most. The tree is in full sun, with reflective heat from the side walk. I donÕt pay too much attention to the tree, and thatÕs probably why itÕs doing so well. Todd Abel -----Original Message----- Subject: Sapodilla Tree ? From: eamusg@quixnet.net [mailto:eamusg@quixnet.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 10:25 AM To: table@socal.rr.com > Hi > > I have not written to you before. I write now with a question > about the sapodilla. Mine is about 20 or more ft tall (variety > Brown sugar) It has good fruit but not much. Tell me as much as > you can what you are doing with it. Mine gets no damage from > frosts & is growing straight up about 5 ft across & blooms > regularly each yr. I fertilize it reg. & water when needed I was > told it liked lime so I put it on too. I also have 2 seedlings > of one that has a 18 oz fruit. It is the biggest I have ever > seen. Is there anything I am not doing. Please let me know. > > I live in zone 9b in FL. > > Ed Musgrave ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: HICCUPS Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 09:21:46 -0800 (PST) From: JOHN FREEMAN FYI Many docs RX strong tranquilizers like tharazine which was invented for schizophrenics and makes you real groggy.Hope things work out for you well.I have been there myself! John [I had hiccups part of every day after leaving the hospital. Finally, in desperation, I went to see a doctor about a prescription - even though I had not had any hiccup problem on that day, and was even given the medicine you described. So, without taking any of the prescription, they stopped - I have not had any hiccups since! -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Mexican Help Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 18:56:39 -0800 (PST) From: Cheryl Noble Good grief. Talk about assumptions. You never said "cheap" Mexican labor. When It comes to agriculture they often are the best, most knowledgeable folks around. I work for a Mexican woman at my job with the County of San Diego. She is one of my better supervisors and gets paid more than me and I get a bunch of money comparitively for my profession. I have 3 degrees, so does she and two of hers are Masters, I have only one. People are people. Competent, non-competent, good, bad and a lot in between. I live in a little United Nations neighborhood. The only one that gives trouble is the Caucasian jerk next door. I wish he'd "white flight" away and leave me with my nice, decent "other" neighbors. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Paw Paw in hot climates? (Asimina triloba) Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2006 20:14:02 -0800 (PST) From: Nancy Hi Doug - I only have seedlings (so far) here in South Louisiana. However, I know that LSU (Louisiana State University) in Baton Rouge has maintained pawpaw orchards and done varieties of experimental grafting and growing for a number of years. I was able to try 8-9 varieties a couple of years ago, so I know they can be grown here. Baton Rouge is, I think, zone 9, but it may be zone 8. Unfortunately, I did hear that Hurricane Rita left the LSU fruit stations pretty well destroyed, including the pawpaw orchards. Maybe you need to add 98% humidity to your oppressive heat? Regards - Nancy (Lafayette, LA) ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Tropical/Carribean fruits Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 11:05:33 +0000 From: Irene Smith Dear Sirs, We are a flavour house based in Northamptonshire. UK. We are trying to locate commercial sources of the following fruits either in extract, juice/concentrate or oils. Volume is not an issue at this time as we are looking for samples for development work. Black Sapote, Canistel, Cherimoya, Feijoa, Guava, Jaboticaba, Paw Paw, White Sapote, Avocado, Custard Apple, Dragon Fruit, Soursop, Acai, Curuba, Sweet Granadilla, Lulo, Maracuya, Mini-Mango, Passion Fruit, Physalis, Pitaya, Prickly Pear, Tamarillo a.k.a. Tree Tomato. If you are able to help with any of the above please send largest FOC sample available. All products need to have a copy of the specification, health & safety data sheet, foood grade and gmo free certificates and if applicable a copy of the Kosher and Halal certificates. Thank you for your help and co-operation in this. Kind Regards Irene Smith Purchasing Dept. Belmay Ltd. Turnells Mill Lane, Denington Estate, Wellingborough. Northants. NN8 2RN UK http://www.belmay.com http://www.belmay.co.uk ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Need Low Cost Ways Of Lowering Soil Water pH Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 10:02:59 -0800 From: Ray Balcom Hi Leo, I'm here in Rainbow on well water and would like to hear about some low cost ways of lowering soil water pH and reducing leaf chlorosis. some of my lychees (all of my Emperor) and some citrus are affected. Thanks! Ray ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Frost-Burned Leaves - Better To Remove Them? Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 17:12:19 -0500 From: oatz Hi, do trees (mango in my case) recover better with dead leaves (all are) or without them? I am in Orlando. Thanks. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Mango article Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 18:50:45 -0800 From: Michael Zarky Hi Leo, The following appeared in the New York Times, at http://www.nytimes.com/2006/03/12/opinion/12jaffrey.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=login BTW, last week at an Indian music concert, someone said that the opening up of the US market would eventually drive mango prices in India up to the point where average people will not find them affordable. I'm sure that is correct. Michael Zarky Op-Ed Contributor The Fruits of Diplomacy By MADHUR JAFFREY Published: March 12, 2006 WHATEVER anyone else might say, America's new nuclear and trade pact with India is a win-win deal. India gets nuclear fuel for its energy needs and America, doing far better in what might be called a stealth victory, finally gets mangoes. Not those pleasantly hued but lifeless rocks that pass as mangoes in most American grocery stores. Definitely not the fibrous, unyielding, supersized Florida creations that boast long shelf life and easy handling and shipping but little else. They might hint at possibilities but provide no satisfaction. No. What America will be getting is the King of Fruit, Indian masterpieces that are burnished like jewels, oozing sweet, complex flavors acquired after two millenniums of painstaking grafting. I can just see them arriving at the ports: hundreds of wide baskets lined with straw, the mangoes nestling in the center like eggs lolling in their nests. These mangoes will be seasonal. Americans will learn to wait for them, just as Indians do. They cannot be pushed to grow in hothouses. Indian mango trees, many of them hundreds of years old (and some reputed to be thousands of years old) need to breathe the same free, fresh air Indians breathe and live through India's three main seasons: summer, the monsoons and winter. Only then will they deign to bear fruit. They bear their pendulous fruit idiosyncratically, sometimes on one side, sometimes on another and some years, if they are so inclined, not at all. One generous tree in Chandigarh bore about 30,000 pounds of mangoes every year for 150 years until it was hit by lightning. Then it just fell over. The mango season begins in early May (but alas, the bureaucracy won't move fast enough for us to get them this year). If they come in sufficient quantities, Americans might well learn to associate them with late spring. I can just see a sentence that my grandchild, or yours, might write: "It was the time of cherry blossoms and Indian mangoes ...." Under this new arrangement, reasonably honest Indian-Americans will no longer have to turn into furtive smugglers to bring mangoes into the country. The one attempt I made was quite unsuccessful. A customs inspector, possibly noting my shifty eyes, asked me quite directly, "Are you carrying any mangoes?" Unable to lie, I had to reply in the affirmative. The mangoes were confiscated. This would have been bearable had I not been able to peep through a slight crack in the customs office door, a few moments later. The officers were cutting up the mangoes and eating them. That hurt. Mangoes seem to have originated in prehistory in the northeastern forests that lie near India's border with Myanmar. Buddha was known to have rested under their shady trees. Emperor Akbar (the third of the grand Moguls, ruling from 1556 to 1605), accelerated the process of planting and grafting by laying out a garden with 100,000 trees. The aim in India had always been to get sweet, melt-in-the-mouth, juicy mangoes with as little stringy fiber as possible. And that is what India has now. Whether you buy the sweet-and-sour pale-skinned langras of Varanasi or the intensely yellow, sweet dussehris of Lucknow or the satiny, heavenly Alphonsos of Ratnagiri near Bombay, what you will be getting are mangoes that man and nature have perfected together. When these same mangoes entered Florida in the 19th century, they were mainly dismissed as "yard" mangoes. Too soft for shipping, they were considered lacking in commercial qualities. So all the fiber that had been bred out of them over thousands of years was bred right back, giving America the hard, pale rocks we see in stores today. When you get your first Indian mango, perhaps an Alphonso, just hold it in your hand and admire its blushes of reds, yellows and greens. Breathe in its aroma, which will reach out to you through its skin. If it is hard, wrap it in newspaper and set it aside, unrefrigerated, until it yields very slightly to the touch. Mangoes are never "tree-ripened." The hand of man is needed to coax them to their peak. Wash them and refrigerate them. Then when you are ready, tie a napkin around your neck, peel, slice and eat. Madhur Jaffrey is an actress and the author of "From Curries to Kebabs: Recipes from the Indian Spice Trail" and the forthcoming memoir, "Climbing the Mango Trees." Michael Zarky 10963 Citrus Drive Moorpark, CA USA 93021 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Africanized Honey Bees Are Still on the Move Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2006 08:49:14 -0500 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ In 2005, Africanized honey bees showed up for the first time in Louisiana, Arkansas and Florida. An updated map showing the spread of Africanized honey bees by county and state has been posted on the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) website at www.ars.usda.gov/ahbmap/. The arrival in Florida was not contiguous with the bees' spread from the Southwest. It was most likely a result of human-assisted transport, by which trucks, ships, railroad cars or other types of transportation inadvertently bring Africanized honey bees into new areas. Usually, human-assisted transport finds are not considered part of Africanized honey bees' spread. But because they have been found in 14 counties, the state of Florida now considers Africanized honey bees to be established there. The ARS Carl Hayden Bee Research Center in Tucson, Ariz., is responsible for official identifications of Africanized honey bees, especially when the bees are found in new states. Additional information about ARS research on Africanized honey bees can be accessed at http://gears.tucson.ars.ag.gov/. Among ARS' recent research accomplishments related to the bees is new guidance for beekeepers on the best time to requeen hives to reverse Africanization of honey bee colonies. Queens of known genetics, from reputable breeders, should be introduced into hives in the fall to give them the best chance of being accepted by the bee colony. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200603B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - April 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200604A.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> It's been surprisingly wet this passing month of March, and below average in temperature. We'll miss it when it gets hotter and drier - assuming that it will do so. Quite a few new subscribers, and many of them have questions that you can help answer. If you live in Florida, you may know local places where Plantains and Passion Fruit plants can be had. Maybe California citrus buffs may know sources for Sudachi and Kabosu plant material.... <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Impressive Collection T. F. Robinson New Subscriber, LA County, May Want Star Fruit Niklas Hallberg New Subscriber - Sylmar, CA - Interested In Jackfruit Phucan Le How To Protect Rare Fruit Trees From 30¼ Temperatures? Bell Shenoi New Subscriber, Alabama, Wants To Try Rare Fruit Llightrain1@aol.com New Subscriber, Looking For Sudachi & Kabosu Citrus Marc Harris New Subscriber, Florida, Wants Plantain & Passionfruit Plants Masih-Das, Savitri <><><> Readers Write <><><> Pitaya - How To Graft? Tom Slasinski How To Succeed With Mango Trees In Desert Climates EAE Gravenstein apple? Try 'Hawaii' Michael McCright walt2741@adelphia.net Paw Paw in hot climates? Carlos DRAGON FRUIT - Any San Diego County Commercial Growers? Joanne Gram Only a few weeks left to buy tickets... Encinitas Garden Festival N Sterman Looking For 'Maha Chanook' Mango - Pitaya Support Richard Sar Looking For Kona Sharwil Avocado McCright, Michael CWO How To Graft Pitayas? Tom Slasinski <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Fwd: Cyclone Larry :..: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Alan Zappala <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: Scott D. Russell None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Queensland, Australia - Impressive Collection Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 16:02:47 +1000 From: T. F. Robinson Hi My name is Tony and I live on QueenslandÕs sunny Gold Coast (28¡S) in Australia where I grow many tropical fruitsÉ grumichamas, jaboticabas, black sapote, white sapote, wampee, camito, mango, lakoocha, rollinia, jackfruit, papaya, guavas and coconuts. Even though at my latitude (28¡S), itÕs considered marginal for some tropical fruits, no frost occurs here and the average minimum for winter is 10C or 50F with a high of 20C or 68F. We have long hot summers that make up for the short cool winter. I have developed a reliable way to germinate coconuts, which I gather from 15+ year old trees from around the area. On the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia which is a marginal area at 28¡S I place each nut in a pot with some potting mix, chicken manure and water well. The chicken manure creates bottom heat as it decomposes aiding germination. During the cooler months from May to September, place a plastic bag over the top tying it around the pot to create a mini hothouse. During the warmer months from October to April, I germinate coconuts directly in pots as well as in a warm sandy patch, if I have a plentiful supply of nuts. Keeping the coconuts well watered during the germination period is very important. Coconut Palms are heavy users of potassium and chlorine so fertilizing with potassium chloride (KCL) is beneficial to strong healthy growth. Even though everyone says, it canÕt be done this far south IÕm determined to get a breadfruit to grow. My current experiment is with a ÔSamoan GoldÕ variety that I had sent down from Tropical North Queensland (18¡S). I pamper it with the best of everything É position, fertilizer, water so I hope it will prove the doubters wrong. Each year I make a lot of jam from my jaboticaba and grumichama trees, which thrive in this climate. My black sapote also is a prolific bearer É I whip the pulp with a little cream mmmm yummy! Ê My email address is crusoe@bigpond.net.au Regards Tony Robinson ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, LA County, May Want Star Fruit Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 20:08:33 -0800 From: Niklas Hallberg Hello I have been growing rare fruit for years and now that I am "retired" I plan to get back into this seriously. My name - Suzanne Kyro I live in Altadena, California (Los Angeles County) I grow the following (those with * have borne fruit): Pitahaya Babaco* Banana* Guava (Red, White and Fejoa*) Papaya* Kei Apple* Fig (Black* and Green*) Peach (Early Elberta*, Elberta - new this year) Lingonberry and Cranberry (new this year) Persimmon* Strawberry (various varieties)* Grape (Red Flame)* Lemon (Meyer* and Pink*) Tangerine (three kinds*) Kaffir Lime Grapefruit (Oro Blanco) Apple (Granny Smith*, Red unknown variety*, sweet green variety from Israel*) Avocado (Haas* and Fuerte) Jujube* Sweet Kumquat* Cape Gooseberry (aka Poha)* Pepino Dulce* Nero Aronia (new this year) Luma Apiculata (new this year) Raspberry (Gold)* Kiwi Passion Fruit (new this year) Blueberry (various varieties)* Morello Cherry (new this year) Sweet Cherry (can't remember variety - new this year) Alpine Strawberry (white and red)* Allspice Coffee* Caper* Loquat* Orange (Blood Orange)* I am sure I have forgotten a few plants. but I think you get the picture. I am sure there are a few more I would like to get - probably a Star Fruit. I am interested in becoming adept at proper fertilization, and pest/disease management and would be interested in discussing these problems with others. Thank you for your newsletter. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Sylmar, CA - Interested In Jackfruit Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 15:42:13 -0800 From: Phucan Le Hi My name Phucan Le. I recently move to Sylmar CA, very close to Magic Mountain. I had one Jujube, one Longan, two Mandarine and one magnolia. I had one Jackfruit previously but it die due to the rain. I would love to have a jackfruit tree in my backyard so I tried so hard to find a tree at least can yield fruit within 3-4 years. I had found some nursery at Los Angeles and Santa Ana selling Jackfruit but both of them growth from Seeding with according to them may be take about 18-20 years to yield fruit in California? I am a fan of Jackfruit and I would love to see its growth in California especially in my area or closed to the beach such as Ventura County where my mom lived. Is there any way for me to find a growth jackfruit which can bear fruit in a short time? Do you know any of those jackfruit tree which bearing fruit in California? What weather condition do they have in their area? Do you think I can growth one? Where could I buy fertilizer for those jackfruit tree? I had looked at the internet and according to them Jackfruit fertilizer should be 6-6-6 and I can not find it at home depot or the nursery near my location? I only found 5-5-5 would it be Okay? Thanks you very much for your time and I hope to hearing from you soon. I am enjoy very much for any article related to those rare fruit? Phucan Le ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Protect Rare Fruit Trees From 30¼ Temperatures? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 16:45:28 -0500 From: Bell Shenoi Let me introduce myself as per your suggestion. My name is BELL SHENOI, I have moved recently from Ohio to Brandon, Florida which is about 15 miles east of Tampa. I am very much interested in growing mango trees (Kent and Keitt only) Lychee plants, Cherimoyna and Sapota trees. Do you know of any nurseries within 100 miles from Brandon which have these plants for sale? If so please send me their name, address and phone number what type of soil treatment, pH value desirable, watering and spraying schedules are suggested for these trees particularly for the mango trees? Note that the temperatures drop to 30 degrees at night for some weeks of winter in this region. I would appreciate any information that you can send, in response to the above enquiry. Thanks a lot. Bell Shenoi ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Alabama, Wants To Try Rare Fruit Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 14:22:37 -0500 (EST) From: Llightrain1@aol.com I am Lorrain Worthington, in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. We are considered zone 7 or 8 right on the line. At the moment I have started with chickens and goats, for milk, butter, eggs and meat. My six year old has her pumpkins, gourds, and gooseberries to begin this year. I have tomatillos. My interests is in planting rare fruit and vegtables that are preannual. Dwarf, shrub, underground or above. We do get a couple of days of frost some plants could be covered or brought in. I would like to try bananas, lemons, and oranges, or a rare replacement. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Looking For Sudachi & Kabosu Citrus Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2006 16:18:49 -0800 (PST) From: Marc Harris Hi, My name is Marc Harris and I live in Rancho Palos Verdes in Southern California. I am currently growing the following: Containers- Dwarf Yuzu Dwarf Sanguinelli Blood Orange Dwarf Kaffir Lime Dwarf Palestine Sweet Lime Dwarf Bearss Lime Dwarf Moro Blood Orange Dwarf Cara Cara Navel Orange Ultra Dwarf Minneola Tangelo Wekiwa Tangelo Dwarf Australian Finger Lime Dwarf Yosemite Gold Mandarin Dwarf Tarocco Blood Orange Dwarf Owari Satsuma Mandarin Dwarf Rangpur lime In Ground - Oro Blanco Grapefruit Navel Orange Eureka Lemon Dwarf Mexican Lime Semi Dwarf Nectarine I want a Dwarf Sudachi Dwarf Kabosu Where, in California, can I get these trees? UCR will be releasing budwood in June, so I think I will get the sudachi. Leo: I am not familiar with Dwarf Sudachi and Dwarf Kabosu. Are they citrus? Marc: Yes they are. Very popular in Japan like Yuzu, but just now getting more popular in the finer restaurants here in LA, SF and NY. Citrus Sudachi is the proper name and Citrus Schearocarpa is Kabosu. Both in the collection at UCR. Budwood on the Sudachi should be released in June. Not so sure about the Kabosu. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, Wants Plantain & Passionfruit Plants Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 13:00:54 -0500 From: Masih-Das, Savitri Hi Leo: I came across your website by a stroke of pure luck:) My name is Savi Masih-Das (female) and I live in Central Florida, ~15 minutes west of Orlando. I currently have growing sugarcane, bananas (don't know the variety) but the finger size, sugarcane, guava, and jamun. My seedling mango is fruiting for the first time in 3 years. I just bought a seedling soursop this weekend. I'm looking for a plaintain plant and a passionfruit vine. Can you help? Savi <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Pitaya - How To Graft? Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:24:38 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Slasinski Leo A year or so ago, I purchased the Paul Thomson book and some cuttings from you to plant on my farm here in the state of Sao Paulo in Brazil. All is going well and needless to say there are many farmers growing Pitaya in this country. Since I can not find Paul's book, can you provide me with some advise on grafting techniques? I look forward to your reply and kindly put me on your news letter list. Thank you in advance. Kind regards, Tom Slasinski PS We are growing organic pitaya and have white, yellow, and red along with a baby variety, one that peels like a banana. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Succeed With Mango Trees In Desert Climates Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:31:59 +0400 From: EAE Dear Sir, We have a project consisting of growing Mango trees in the United Arab Emirates. I want to ask about any procedure or requirements needed to succeed in this project (around 15000 trees). I have these questions: - Do we need to provide the trees with mist? - The temperature here reaches 45 degrees Celsius (113 ¼ F.) in summer, so if you can provide me with any document that discusses about Mango trees and humidity and misting. Thank you Robert Aaraj Product Manager EAE ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Gravenstein apple? Try 'Hawaii' Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2006 07:32:34 -0800 From: Michael McCright To: walt2741@adelphia.net Hi Walter, I do not have experience growing the Gravenstein apple in California. But I have tasted the Hawaii variety. It is a Gravenstein cross with a low chill apple, Fuji I think. Fuji needs about 400 hours and Gravenstein is a high chill apple 800-900 as I recall. You might want the get a Hawaii and grow it out. If it acts goofy with leaves late into winter and very late to break bud in spring, it probably needs more chill than you have. The Hawaii has good flavor and is one of my favorites. I like it better than Gravenstein. You can find it at the specialty nurseries. Mike McCright Escondido, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Paw Paw in hot climates? Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 05:26:39 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Hi Nancy and all I guess the solution could be graft them into Florida paw paw species. Until I know there are 6 Asiminas natives of Florida! Best Regards Carlos ------------------------------------------------ Subject: DRAGON FRUIT - San Diego Commercial Growers? Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 11:27:52 -0800 From: Joanne Gram Dear "Rare Fruit Info Department," I am a Huntington Docent and I am the co-editor of the Jumping Cholla Desert Garden Newsletter to be found on-line atÊ http://www.huntington.org/botanical In order to do a follow-up article on Dragon Fruit, I would like to come toÊ San Diego County to see the greenhouses where Hylocereus is being commercially grown. Do you have the addresses or phone numbers of people that I can contact about this? Sincerely, Joanne Gram ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Few weeks left to buy tickets... Encinitas Garden Festival Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 07:33:29 -0800 From: N Sterman There are only a couple of weeks left to purchase tickets for the April 8, 2006 Encinitas Garden Festival.ÊÊ Festival Features: NearlyÊ30 gardens in Leucadia - all izes, shapes and styles (ticket required) AÊGardeners' Marketplace in Cottonwood Creek Park (free admission) with 30+ booths (see preliminary vendor list below) Dance and music all day long in the Gardeners' MarketplaceÊ The Patricia Rincon Dance Collective performing in the park and in 7Ê gardens. ÊÊ An auction of color flower bowls, products, and services from all types of businesses Double decker buses to transport tour participants from the Cottonwood Creek Park to the tour neighborhoods Tickets are selling quickly so don't put it off.Ê Tickets for those 11 and older are now $20, ages 6 to 10 are $7.Ê Younger kids are free. Purchase tickets at: ÊThe Encinitas Chamber of Commerce, 138 Encinitas Blvd, Encinitas, 760-753-6041 http://www.encinitaschamber.com - tickets also offered by phone at this location Downtown Encinitas Mainstreet Association, 818 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760-943-1950 Sunshine Gardens,Ê155ÊQuail Gardens Dr., Encinitas,Ê760-436-3244 Barrels and Branches 1452 Santa Fe Drive, Encinitas, (760) 753-2852 Anderson's La Costa Nursery, 400 La Costa Ave, Encinitas, CA Cedros Gardens, 330 S. Cedros Ave. Solana Beach, CA GrangettoÕs Farm and Garden Supply, 203 South Rancho Santa Fe Road, Encinitas CA 92024 Walter Anderson Nursery, 3642 Enterprise Street, San Diego, CA 92110 Last year tickets sold out, so purchase yours today!!! From 11:30 to 2 pm busses loop into downtown Leucadia where there are scores of wonderful restaurants and shops to explore. Parking is tight so please carpool - or take the Coaster.Ê The Encinitas Coaster Station is a block from Cottonwood Creek Park which is the starting point for the day.ÊÊ Don't want to carry your purchases?Ê No problem.Ê Check them in the holding area before you start your tour. We hope to see you on April 8!ÊÊ For more Information visit http://www.EncinitasGardenFestival.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For 'Maha Chanook' Mango - Pitaya Support Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 14:28:10 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Sar Hi Leo, How are you doing? I read that you had some surgery but doing better now, that's great. I was going through some of the old newsletter and you mentioned you had just recently grafted a 'Maha Chanook' mango onto your tree. Do you know where I could buy a grafted plant of this variety or at the least possibly get some budwood? I am trying out a new support system for my dragonfruits. Last year we had chopped down two old palm trees. I kept the trunk and began planting some dragonfruits on them. I will be using it like the Vietnamese trellis pictures I've seen. Its going to be interesting to see how it does. Well thanks for the help, Richard ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Kona Sharwil Avocado Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2006 09:49:10 -0800 From: McCright, Michael CWO Hi Leo, do you know where I could get some bud wood of the Kona Sharwil avocado? Mike McCright ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Graft Pitayas? Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 12:24:38 -0600 (CST) From: Tom Slasinski Leo A year or so ago, I purchased the Paul Thomson book and some cuttings from you to plant on my farm here in the state of Sao Paulo in Brazil. All is going well and needless to say there are many farmers growing Pitaya in this country. Since I can not find Paul's book, can you provide me with some advise on grafting techniques? I look forward to your reply and kindly put me on your news letter list. Thank you in advance. Kind regards, Tom Slasinski PS We are growing organic pitaya and have white, yellow, and red along with a baby variety, one that peels like a banana. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Fw: Cyclone Larry :..: Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 07:22:58 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: Alan Zappala I remember that you were badly hit by Wilma. My Australian friends in Queensland have just been devastated by Larry. I have a lot of fruit growers friends over there. I have a feeling that there will be more bad storms coming. And these storms are caused by greedy humans. Take precautions, especially if you live near the coast. Sainarong ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Zappala To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2006 3:39 AM Subject: Cyclone Larry :..: : Dear Sainarong, : : We're alive, that's the main thing after going through a : Category 5 cyclone like Larry. The eye was only about 15km : from us to the south. Houses and sheds ok, trees very bad, : especially the durian. We were just about 15% into harvest : with a good crop but this is horticulture. I had a meeting : with our PM last week asking how can we replace 20 year old : trees? : : The sugar and bananas in our region will be back in a year : but the trees will take at least a decade, depending what is : left to graft up new stock. : : We have generators, water back on but it looks like a war : zone, about the size of half of Tasmania. Best news was that : no-one was killed. The evacuation plan worked well with all : beachfront residents moved the afternoon before. It was : moving at about 25km per hour and blew from about 4.00am : till 11.00am. : : Talk to you soon, thanks again for your thoughts, : : The Zappala's. <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: Scott D. Russell Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200604A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - April 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200604B.txt ____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> New Subscriber - Anchorage, Alaska - What Can I Grow? Sarah <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Papaya - Good For Constipation Or Digestion Robert Cadwalader Re: Jackfruit In Nurseries Nancy B. CRFG April '06 Newsletter Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter Norman Beard Paw Paw in Florida Permacltur@aol.com Fw: History Channel Documentary David Silverstein My Jackfruit In Visalia, California Bananaizme@aol.com Re: Looking For Nurseries In Florida Bananaizme@aol.com To: Bell Shenoi Looking For Avocado Source: Spinks, Hazzard, Duke "Joel A. Johnson" April Newsletter North County Chapter CRFG Secetary Nickerson <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Anchorage, Alaska - What Can I Grow? From: Sarah Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 15:50:20 -0800 My name is Sarah Schwicht, and I live in Anchorage, Alaska. My husband and I do not currently have any fruit trees, bu interested in trying to grow apples and learning about other fruits that can grow in cold climates. Thanks, Sarah <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Re: Interested In Jackfruit Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 10:23:52 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Phucan Le I have a Vietnamese friend in San Diego who usually sells Jackfruit trees at his nursery in the Linda Vista subdivision. He works during the week but evenings and weekends he can be reached at (858) 277-8167 [maybe it's (619) 277-8167]. It's worth the drive, if he has what you want. Take care, Leo Manuel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Papaya - Good For Constipation Or Digestion From: Robert Cadwalader Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2006 03:32:30 -0600 I am Robert Cadwalader in Charleston, Il I'm interested in getting information on papaya for constipation and digestion Robert Cadwalader ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jackfruit From: Nancy B. Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 01:12:53 -0500 Dear Phucan; I buy Jackfruit from the Zone Ten Nursery when I go down south to Miami http://www.zoneten.com/fruit.htm Zone Ten doesn't ship, but they might be able to help you to find another nursery that ships. They are the most successful at growing the tree. Regards, Nancy ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG April '06 Newsletter Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter From: Norman Beard Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 22:50:04 -0700 To: Tommye Pamela Anderson CALIFORNIA RARE FRUIT GROWERS, INC. Ventura and Santa Barbara Chapter April, 2006 ******APRIL MEETING When: April 22, Saturday; 10:00 to Noon Where: Brokaw Nursery, 1419 Lirio Ave., Saticoy; Ph: (805) 647-2262 Directions: From 101 Freeway, exit onto the Santa Paula Freeway (CA-126). Exit CA-126 at S. Wells Road (CA-118) to Saticoy. Turn Right onto Wells., go 0.7 miles. Turn Right onto Nardo St., go 0.2 miles; it ends at a left turn (Lirio Ave.). Proceed to 1419 Lirio Ave. Host: Larry Rose, sales manager Description: Brokaw specializes in citrus, avocado, and cherimoya. We will be touring the avocado orchard; a discussion of avocado cultivars, management, and propagation will be a part of the tour. There will also be demos on grafting subtropicals such as citrus and avocados. ******SAVE the DATE: May Meeting is on May 20th at Whitney Ranch, 401 Lambert Rd., Carpinteria where we'll tour Blueberries, Meyer Lemons, & more. ******LOCAL OFFICERS Chapter Co-Chair: Norman Beard, (805) 968-0989, beardtropics@earthlink.net Chapter Co-Chair: Jerry Sortomme, (805) 644-2777, jerrysortomme@hotmail.com Website: http://crfg.org For Membership in California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc, send $30 to CRFG, Inc., Fullerton Arboretum-CSUF, PO Box 6850, Fullerton, CA 92834-6850 AND $10 (for Local Dues) to Roland Messori, 355 Sierra Vista Rd., Santa Barbara, CA 93108 (Note: Members of the Parent CRFG organization receive the outstanding "Fruit Gardener".) ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Paw Paw in Florida From: Permacltur@aol.com Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 08:31:08 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo: Sorry to have been quietly lurking for so long. I've been very busy with our online course. I have had success grafting paw paw (Asimina triloba) to dwarf paw paw (A. parviflora), which is abundant here in North Central Florida, at least at Barking Frogs Permaculture Center. I have had a medium to low rate of grafting success, which I solve by cutting A. parviflora to the ground and grafting paw paw to the best of the coppice sprouts that develop. So usually I get at least one good graft per clump. I've had success with both whip and tongue and cleft grafts. This year I took out some of the extra successful grafts from individual clumps, leaving just one good graft. I used the material I took out for interstem, figuring that I may have a higher success rate grafting A. parviflora to other A. parviflora. It is too early to tell if my success rate will be better. I've also purchased some seedling A. triloba to plant for cross pollination, as I have had success with only two clones to date. I have had trouble finding a source of good scionwood for A. triloba. I bought some from a nursery, but the mailed me very small material, like thick wires, and I had very little success (one take which I guard jealously). Almost all my other successful grafts are from a batch of wood, also on the small side, that was collected from promising wild trees by a NAFEX member. There were three selections, but mainly just one selection took. Either it is more compatible than the others with our strain of A parviflora, or it was collected later, stored better, or some such. I am strongly interested in getting more scion wood of named varieties, most especially from the Gulf coast region. Dan Hemenway Barking Frogs Permaculture Center The protocol for our Annual Permaculture Design Course Online is at http://barkingfrogspc.tripod.com/frames.html soon to be http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org Our 11th annual Permaculture Design Course Online begins Nov. 5, 2006. We also accept late registrations to our online course cycle now underway. A list by topic of all Yankee Permaculture titles also may be found at http://csf.colorado.edu/perma/ypc_catalog.html ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fw: History Channel Documentary From: David Silverstein Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2006 19:53:51 -0700 OK, CRFG'ers, it's time to brag about what we grow. I would guess that macadamias would count as rare (although I would think the same about chestnuts that are American grown) but what about some other more unusual nuts? Bill Grimes > From: "Philip Kruener" > To: > Subject: History Channel Documentary > Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 11:10:33 -0800 > > I am the producer of a History Channel documentary onâ Nutsâ > to be featured in their long-running series MODERN MARVELS. > While a large portion of the show will be devoted to more > traditional nuts, walnuts, chestnuts etc. We would like to do a > segment on exotic and rare nuts. We are looking for growers > and/or experts in this field. Any help would be greatly > appreciated. > > Sincerely, > > Philip Kruener > Producer > 310-293-9170 > maosung@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Jackfruit In Visalia, California From: Bananaizme@aol.com Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 10:11:02 -0400 (EDT) Dear Phucan I have 2 seedling jakfruits planted in the same hole together at my place in Visalia. I am learning how to grow and care for them by trial and error. The first winter they were around 3 feet high. I did not protect them enough and they froze back almost to ground level. Once the weather turned warm again they went into a nice growth spurt. They reached 3 feet again by the end of the 2nd summer. This will be the 3rd season in the ground for them and they are starting out in very good shape so I am hoping for an explosion of growth once the days and nights stay consistantly warm. I think you might have better luck growing them in Sylmar as opposed to Ventura because you get more heat in Sylmar. Jaks like very hot weather. I have not heard that it takes 18 to 20 years to get fruit from seedlings. I think tree size would determine this more than age. I have talked to Floridians who have got fruit from seedlings in around 5 years. As far as fertilizer goes I use Peters 20-20-20 on my Jaks and mangoes and everything else for that matter with good results. You can purchase it from Home Depot or Lowes. Follow the label directions. Jaks seem to be heavy feeders. If I remember right I think Paul Fisher might have bearing Jakfruit trees at his place. I have seen pics of a bearing Jakfruit in San Diego Co somewhere. It is possible but ou have to baby the trees until they get some size. It might be in your interest to contact Paul Fisher and ask him about his trees. I wish you the best of luck in your growing efforts. William Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Looking For Nurseries In Florida From: Bananaizme@aol.com Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 10:16:14 -0400 (EDT) To: Bell Shenoi Bell, why don't you contact Jenes Tropicals. I believe her nursery is located in Tampa if I'm not mistaken. From what I remember she has a nice selection of grafted trees. I tried to get you the phone number but the website does not seem to be working. Maybe call information? Good luck to you. William Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Avocado Source: Spinks, Hazzard, Duke From: "Joel A. Johnson" Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 17:06:08 -0700 Hi Leo, I've been searching for several avocado varieties, and have exhausted my usual resources. I thought perhaps someone among your readers might be growing, could suggest a nursery, or otherwise provide a lead on the following avocado varieties: Spinks Hazzard Duke Thank you! Joel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: April Newsletter North County Chapter CRFG Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:47:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Secetary Nickerson The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers March Meeting-The business meeting was limited to the adoption of the proposed Chapter By-Laws by unanimous vote of the attending members. The meeting was kept short to allow time for Cherimoya tasting and Dr. NurmiÕs talk on ÒInsect Pollination of CherimoyasÓ Dr. Nurmi who grows Cherimoyas in Fallbrook has spent the last few years studying how insects pollinate Cherimoyas. He has run several experiments, collected pollinating species and carried on extensive correspondence with other scientists and growers. He provided a 3 page handout to the members. The handout describes the various insects and discusses the detailed mechanics of propagation. It also lists several fine references including some websites. In summary, the pollinating species are; Sap Beetles, Rove Beetles and Pirate Bugs. Ants do not pollinate Cherimoyas. If you want and canÕt get a copy of the paper, send me (Secretary) a SASE and I will mail you a copy. The Cherimoya tasting was enjoyed by all. Jeff Lucas as usual deserves special mention for bringing so many to share. APRIL Meeting- We will meet April 21 at 7 PM in Room T402, bldg T400. Carl Hansen will speak on ÒEthno-BotanyÓ which studies the relation between plants and people. He will give a brief history of the field which includes the use of archeological evidence. He will also discuss new lab experiments, which he ran at the University of Hawaii, for the Dept. of Homeland Security, involving plants potentially useful in controlling the bacteria used in biological warfare. Harry Nickerson CRFG San Diego North County Chapter 1815 Yettford Rd. Vista CA 92083 2006 Calendar Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Check calendar for current meeting details. April 21 7PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Ethno Botany-- Carl Hansen May 19 7PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Vince Lazaneo-- Topic TBD May 20 10 AM Cal. Tropical Fruit Tree Nursery Tour-Must car pool Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net CRFGÕs website: http://www.crfg.org; NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200604B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - May 1, 2006 - AKA RFN2006050A.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> An Interpretation Of The Use Of IMO In Natural Farming Systems In Announcements And Web Pages To Consider - Since this issue of RFNO is very short, I decided to include this article by Professor Graham Reinders of the Phillipines. IMO seems to be similar to "Soil Soup" which you may have read about. I found it interesting and would be interested in your feedback about it, if you read it. There have been very few letters from you, which I expect is for good reasons. I always wonder if RFNO will continue for much longer. It depends on you. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Florida Otto Tonti <><><> Readers Write <><><> Re: Availability of Avocado: Duke, Spinks, Hazzard Bananaizme@aol.com Looking For Fruit For My Congestion Problems Ed Brandon Vista Garden Village May 28 North County San Diego Chapter To: harnick@sbcglobal.net <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> Looking for Toilet Paper Rolls (empty of course!) Ariel Good News for seed importers in the USA! Oscar J Passiflora identification question Tom Waters GM Papaya kahiwal@cs.com <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Florida Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 17:37:28 -0400 From: Otto Tonti Dear Leo, My name is Otto Tonti and I live in Fort Myers, Florida. My e-mail address is otonti2@earthlink.net. Our house sits on a small city lot of seventy-five by a hundred and fifty feet deep, and from the time I moved here thirty-five years ago, my goal was to have something fresh to pick and eat any time of the year. There are so many things one can grow here that make this a realistic goal even if one does not devote all their spare time to it. The first publication I read about growing fruit in Florida was a small pamphlet of about a hundred and eighty pages called Florida Fruit by Lewis Maxwell. This used to be sold in all the tourist traps as well as some nurseries and book stores. Looking back, I would have to say that this booklet contains more useful information, page for page, than anything I have read since. The first tree I planted was a Brewster Litchi. The soil in this part of Florida is almost all sand and is somewhat high in pH. I planted that Litchi in a mixture of sewage sludge, sand and peat moss, and trenched it every year with additional sludge until it was about fifteen feet tall. I also mulched heavily using all the leaves I could find as well as grass clippings from my yard and some of my neighbors. The tree is now about thirty-five feet tall and is doing well although it is an erratic bearer. I mulch everything heavily with wood chips in order to keep the weeds manageable and to conserve water. FloridaÕs springtime is normally drought time with no rain for two months sometimes or even longer. Fruit we are now growing include a Valencia and a Parson Brown orange, a Mineola tangelo which we use for juice, a navel orange, a Key lime tree, a dwarf Marsh white grapefruit, a pink Marsh, two kinds of bananas, a Cavendish and a plaintain which was a gift from a Cuban friend. Also an Atemoya (DonÕt remember the variety except that itÕs not Page) which provides fruit for two months, an Acerola Barbados cherry) a Butia capitata or Sugar Palm, a Jaboticaba with very dark purple fruit, a Grumichama which has not fruited so far, Monsteras, Pineapples, a Brown Turkey fig, a Surinam cherry, a Floridagrand peach which makes small, white-fleshed delicious fruit, a couple of Carissa grandifloras, and a Kohala longan. We also keep a small patch of red sugar cane for younger visitors. Notable failures include a Pitomba, which was an extremely reluctant bearer but whose fruit was very good and definitely worth growing. I gave up on it after fifteen years. It had a massive root system and looked very healthy, so this failure remains a mystery to me. I also managed to kill two Black Sapote trees and three Miracle Fruit trees. IÕm not sure if the two passionfruit vines I put in should be classified as failures or whether disasters would be a better word. They took over everything on the west side of the house, and that includes half the house, all the citrus trees on that side and even up into the Litchi. After I ripped the vines down, a neighbor who is from Jamaica commented to me that they have a saying there, ÒNothing stands in the way of a passionfruit vineÓ. I look forward to receiving your newsletter. Thank you Otto Tonti <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Re: Availability of Avocado: Duke, Spinks, Hazzard Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 15:39:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Bananaizme@aol.com Joel, the Duke variety has just recently been grafted into the collection at South Coast. I think it might be alittle early to take wood from it though. You would have to check with Julie Frink about that. It came from a large tree growing in the front yard of my wifes' uncles' place. Unfortunately his tree was too close to the house and had to be removed. Thanks to Julies expert grafting skills we were able to save some wood from the tree. I have two very young Dukes that I grafted but it will be a couple years before their large enough to take wood from. I don't have any idea where to get wood from Spinks or Hazzard but like you would like to try them if given a chance. Also would like to try Nimlioh. If I happen to come across a source I'll bring it to your attention. William Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Looking For Fruit For My Congestion Problems Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 17:41:21 -0400 From: Ed Brandon Hi Leo I am looking for any fruit that would help in congestion problems I already grow about 100 rare fruits. I hope some of your people would know which would help me. Ed Brandon FL eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Vista Garden Village May 28 Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 03:34:04 +0000 From: North County San Diego Chapter To: harnick@sbcglobal.net Harry, Here is the email I would like to have sent out: We are looking for volunteers to help us field a booth at the Vista Garden Village on Sunday, May 28th. It will be held at the Lincoln Middle School Ball Field in Vista from 10am to 4pm. We also need fruit and other CRFG items for our display. This is another chance to get our name out to the public. We will be passing out the informational flyer about the San Diego chapters to promote our group. Please call Ben Pierce at (760) 744-4716 if you would like to volunteer. For more information about the festival check out the website at www.gardenvillage.org or call Ben. Thanks Harry! <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> Subject: An Interpretation Of The Use Of IMO In Natural Farming Systems Date: April 30, 2006 From: Leo Manuel An Interpretation Of The Use Of IMO (Indigenous Micro-Organisms) In Natural Farming Systems (NFS) By Professor Graham Reinders The Philippine Department of Agriculture is presently furthering the principle of NFS (Natural Farming Systems). I first came upon this system written up by the Korean Natural Farming Systems, (KNFA), to promote a sustainable system for Pest and Disease Control by minimizing Chemical inputs for farming in Korea. The technique stresses the use of micro-organisms for enhancing soil health and plant growth. I then found an article by Professor Teruo Higa of Japan who defined and discussed soil-organisms, calling them (EM) Effective micro-organisms. The (NFS) Natural Farming Systems calls them: IMO's IMO's Professor Higa's research has shown that culturing and adding EM's and other beneficial organisms to soil does indeed increase the soils quality, which in turn increases the soil's health and productivity. Unfortunately using these micro-organisms can not fix bad or inefficient farming methods. Brews of EM's, containing, among others, Lactic Acid, Bacteria, Yeasts, photosynthetic bacteria, and Actinomycetes, are all compatible and can be kept in liquid form. Each micro-organism is specialized and only multiplies in surroundings which are beneficial to it. This means that micro-organisms cultured and bred at another place may not like the places you put them and will not always do their job. This fact has led to the NFS's approach of culturing (IMO). Indigenous Micro-organism (which means that the IMO comes from the place that they are going to be used) This is done by breeding an IMO cultured from the soil of the very farms in which it is going to be used. Bad Microbes Crops fail, yields diminish, and pests attack crops when bad pathogens replace good microbes in the soil. The soil becomes unhealthy because conditions for the bad microbes become better than the conditions for the good microbes. This change can take place very rapidly when we Mono-culture without crop-rotation, and if we keep applying Chemical Fertilizers without knowing what has been used up. Very soon we have a build up of toxic Nutrient Salts in the soil. In addition all pesticides make soil unhealthy. Soil Quality Is the main factor for how well plants will grow. Effective Micro-organisms (EM) and/or Indigenous Micro-organisms (IMO) seem to be the only way to increase Soil Quality. Soil Quality is usually characterized by: o Increased infiltration, which allows water and air to penetrate easily o Aeration: which allows lots of air for the roots and organisms to breathe o Aggregation: which is a consistent mixture throughout o Organic matter content: which is vital for providing carbon for the microbes, plus nutrients for them eat and to recycle for the plants. o Decreased bulk density: which means a lower density and better porosity o Low-compaction: as opposed to dense clays and dead soil o Low-erosion: which means that the healthy soil has not washed away o Non-crusting: which means that the soil-surface has not yet become hard and impenetrable. Danger Nothing can help these problems unless farming practices are changed for the better. Placing more and more fertilizer and using stronger and stronger pesticides only makes the problem worse. The prolonged use of Chemical Fertilizers and environmental pollutants has left most of our growing soils unhealthy. Over time Chemical Fertilizers displace the micro-organisms in soil, and the soil loses quality So far Microbial solutions have been the only sustainable solutions to these problems. Indigenous Micro-organisms (IMO's) If we can enhance any of the natural functions upon which plants depend for growth, or increase soil health, we can improve plant growth. In many countries micro-organisms are manufactured and can be bought for use in farming. The (KNFA) of Korea, however, emphases the importance of using indigenous micro-organisms cultured locally. These are the best to protect local environments, maintain natural diversity and to reduce costs. The process of brewing IMO involves collecting micro-organisms from fields and forests in the vicinity of the farms where they are to be used.. To Make IMO o Place 1 Kg of steamed rice in a shallow container. Cover the container with a Muslin cloth or sack, then turn it upside down and bury it in the ground nearby, or cover it with soil so that the Micro-organisms can creep into the rice. o Cover the area well with a plastic sheet to prevent rain water from getting in. o Leave it for 5-6 days while the indigenous micro-organisms collect on the surface of the rice. o After this 5-6 days mix into the rice, 1/3 Kg of sugar or molassas adding 1 liter of water and cover again and place in a cool place. o Now leave this to Culture for about 10 days. After the ten days it is ready for use. This IMO culture, if not fed, will only live for about three months before it needs another similar shot of molassas and water to feed the microbes. The molassas additions can be repeated three times only, because by then there is no more Carbon or minerals left for the IMO to eat. However another way of feeding the culture is to periodically add small quantities of rice bran or wheat flour to keep the microbes fed. To use IMO, Strain off a small quantity from the main brew and dilute this into water to create a concentration 0.2% - 0.3%. This is about 1 tablespoon of IMO per litre of water (or about 30ml/Litre). IMO can have the following benefits: o When sprayed directly onto the leaves of plants it increases the photosynthetic potential (Questionable?? By this author) and thus increase the growth rate of the plants. o The IMO micro-organisms also act as a line of defense against disease (explained later) o When sprayed directly onto soil the micro-organisms improve the soil structure by increasing the Micro-flora and thereby the soils health. (only if soil has sufficient organic content to feed the organisms) o When used in the bedding material of pig houses and chicken pens, the micro-organisms increase the decomposition rate of the manure and thus reduce the odour; (This smell reduction is soon noticeable). o When applied to compost the micro-organisms increase the decomposition rate and enhance the compost. o When applied to animal feed the IMO's help pre-ferment the feed which enhances the digestive capacity of livestock. Given 1 tablespoon/litre of drinking water, the animal and poultry waste is greatly reduced in smell, and easily composted. Fermented Fruit / Plant Juice (FFJ)(FPJ) Any plant material or any foliage can be utilized for making these brews. Most Local plant material, even small amounts of grass can be used for the following FPJ. To Make FPJ o Place 1 Kg. of finely chopped waste plant material in a plastic bucket with 1 litre of water, mix in 1/3 to 1/2 Kg sugar (molassas). o Add 60ml (2tablespoons) of the diluted IMO as a fermenter. o Cover with a cloth, paper or, sack, not plastic because it needs air. o Place in a cool dark place for 10 days, after which the solids and liquid should have separated. o Strain the liquid in to a container. The left over Sediment can be used for composting, or used twice more to make a new brew, as above. To Use FPJ The liquid is diluted to (0.2% concentration), 30ml/Litrte (1 tablespoon per litre) and sprayed directly onto plants or applied to the soil. Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) Any Fruits such as strawberry, fig, mulberry, mango, papaya and banana (nearly any fruits) can be fermented into FFJ. To make FFJ o Place 1 Kg of finely chopped or mushed waste fruit material in a plastic bucket with 1 litre of water, mix in1/2 Kg sugar (molassas). o Add 2 tablespoons (60 ml) of the diluted IMO to act as a fermenter o Cover the mix with a cloth, paper or a sack. Do not use a plastic cover it needs air. Place in a cool, dark place for 10 days, after which the solids and liquid should have separated. o Strain into a container. The solids can be used for composting, or as above to make a new brew. To Use FFJ The liquid is diluted to (0.2% concentration), 60ml/Litre (2 tablespoon per litre) and sprayed directly onto plants or applied to the soil. FPJ and FFJ are most effective when used on similar fruits and plants in the area from which they came. Both these brews contain IMO which give the same benefits as the Indigenous micro-organisms Benefits of FPJ and FFJ o When FPJ and FFJ are sprayed on plants they act as a natural good-insect attractant, thus these sprays operate as bad-insect repellent. o This remaining IMO in the brew has anti fungal action on the plants o There are also anti-biotic Microbes in it which act as anti bacterial for the plants o The fermented plant/fruit matter in the FPJ/FFJ will have decomposed into NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium) plus Trace elements. which now become available to the plants o FPJ contains slightly more Nitrogen and Phosphorous than FFJ. In turn FFJ contains slightly more Potassium and less nitrogen than FPJ, so by mixing different quantities of these two and incorporate FAA with them (FAA is described in the paragraph after next).one can change the overall NPK fertilizing ratios as needed, by mixing a cocktail of the three fermented brews. This author also anticipates the following advantages. o If these brews are Foliar Sprayed correctly onto the plant, they could be absorbed into the leaf (see section on ÒFoliar SprayingÓ o Soil IMO's (which will be in FPJ and FFJ) have been shown to produce many plant growth-stimulators which if sprayed correctly could enter the stomata and enhance plant growth. o In addition they encourage the growth of soil micro-organisms which then facilitate the uptake of nutrients through the roots of plants. o FPJ/FFJ can also be applied to animal bedding, where it encourages micro-organism activity and thus enhances the decomposition of manure. o IMO/FPJ/FFJ cocktail, when given in water to animals or birds (30ml/Litre of water) reduces the smell of wastes to almost zero, and leaves the wastes in the first stages of decomposition. o FPJ and FFJ added to feed, add valuable trace elements and natural anti-biotics for animals and birds. o There seems to be evidence that the triple cocktail applied to animal feed makes it easier fir them to digest and adds good trace elements. Fish Amino Acid (FAA) FAA is made from fish wastes, such as bones, heads and skin. To Make o 1 Kg of Fish remains is mixed with 1Kg of crude sugar , inoculated with 2 tablespoons of IMO, and placed in a bucket, covered with paper, cloth or sacking and tied in place. o The mix is kept in a cool, dark place for 2 weeks. The To Use o The mixture is diluted with water to 0.1% concentration (30ml/Litre or 1tablespoon per litre of water) o Apply directly to the soil and/or Foliar Spray onto plants. (read about Foliar Spraying later in this article) FAA replaces amino acids and nitrogen in the soil for plant uptake. Fermented Kahol (Snails) This is a direct alternative for FAA and made and used in exactly the same way as FAA Spraying a Cocktail of FFJ, FPJ and FAA directly on plants It can reasonably be assumed that the above three brews contain the following: (which if they can enter the plant's stomata are capable of enhancing plant growth). o The 13 decomposed plant nutrient elements,. o Simple organic molecules easily absorbed by a plant. o Cell building Amino Acids o Microbial growth enhancers. o Anti-pest capabilities o IMO and its anti-biotic microbes Oriental Herbal Nutrients (OHN) (A natural Pesticide) OHN is used as a pesticide and to control mildews on leaves In OHN, Local herbs are utilized as a Pesticide and a Fungicide which will prevent the growth of Downy and Powdery Mildew. Herbs such as (Herb-Angelica), -(Cinnamomum Laurel Family) and (Chinese Licorice) are suggested by Korea. For the Philippines this Author suggests that Neem seeds and or leaves, or Maria de Cacao leaves be used. Both have strong pesticide characteristics. Many patented world wide. o Place 1 Kg of chopped Neem leaves with 2 litres of rice wine, beer or (coconut Tuba ) in a bucket and soak for 12 hours. o This is probably an enzymatic cell dissolver of the herbal oils from the leaves. Note: The leaves if not ground up, need to be weighted down into the vinegar or they will float and not have the oil extracted, o After the 12 hours, add 1/3 Kg of Sugar for every 1 Kg of the herbal leaves. Also add 1/2Kg of Ginger, or Garlic, or Onion, or (Chili) and leave to ferment for 4-5 days. o Now add (1 litres of any 40% (80 proof) Distilled alcohol. This does a solvent type extraction of the oils. o Leave for 7-10 days more before use. To Use Dilute to 0.1% concentration.30ml/Litre of water (about half a tablespoon/Litre) prior to spraying onto plants. Mix and combine with equal parts of FPJ and brown-rice vinegar or ( Tuba ). Lactic acid bacteria serum (LAS) Starter After the rice for the IMO has been boiled keep the rice water. To Make LAS o Place _ litre of rice water in a container cover and store in a cool dark place for 7 days. o Skim off the froth and throw it away. Keep the liquid o To this liquid add 10times as much milk. Store again for 7 days. Skim off the curds and throe them away. Keep the yellow liquid. o Add 1/3 Kg of sugar for each litre of yellow liquid. Store for 7 days. o Skim off the crud and throw it away. Keep the brown liquid. To Use LAS Dilute to a 0.2% concentration (60ml/Litre of water) (2 tablespoons) o Spray on plants to fortify phyllosphere microbes. o Feed to Humans, animals, or birds as described above in FPJ.Animals Calcium/Phosphorous extract (Calphos) To Make o Soak , 2 Kg of burnt animal bones in10 litres of vinegar. for two weeks until they dissolve. The extract contains Phosphorous, Calcium and Boron. o Egg shells soaked in vinegar for two weeks provide pure calcium. NOTE Calcium is such an immobile element is can not be used as a foliar spray Why do the above processes work? In IMO, FPJ, FFJ, FAA and LAS we are multiplying micro-organisms by feeding them Carbon, Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium and trace elements. During IMO creation, we use large amounts of sugar (C6.H12.O6) or molasses. This is added to the mix,which feeds the organisms. which the rice has attracted from soil. We need to provide the organisms with energy as well as lots of Carbon, Hydrogen, and Oxygen., while they can decompose the rice. The Basic Assumption behind IMO's General Functions of different Beneficial Soil micro-organisms o Fixation of atmospheric nitrogen, o Decomposition of organic wastes and residues, o Suppression of soil-borne pathogens, o Recycling and increased availability of plant nutrients, o Degradation of toxicants including pesticides, o Production of antibiotics and other bioactive compounds, o Production of simple organic molecules for plant uptake, o Complexation of heavy metals to limit plant uptake, o Solubilization of insoluble nutrient sources, o Production of polysaccharides to improve soil aggregation. We have isolated over 48 Microbial processes which EM's (Effective micro-organisms) carry out. Here are some of the IMO groups and types o Actinomycetes, Actinobacter, Ascomycetes for disease suppression o Fungi o Protozoa o Algae o Bacterial Groups o Ammonifiers o Gas-producing anaerobes o Anaerobes o De-nitrifiers o Aerobic cellulose decomposers o Anaerobic cellulose decomposers o Spore formers o "Radiobacter" types Azotobacter o Chelators. These form complexes with the metal-ions in Nutrients. This helps plants to absorb them. o Actinmyctes and Fungi are a big player for decomposition. o Azotobacters Phycomycete fungi do Nitrogen fixing. o Zymogenic bacteria finish off complex fermentation processes. These Zymogenic microbes are the really good ones. They are the ones that give off the Òhealthy soilÓ smell. The IMO brew attempts to cultivate these Zymogenic microbes for making available large amounts of the elemental nutrients, amino acids, carbohydrates, vitamins and other bio-active substances which can directly or indirectly enhance the growth, yield and quality of crops, and Suppression of Fusarium fungi What Beneficial micro-organisms Do Best In general terms these are the organisms which: o Collect atmospheric Nitrogen, o Decompose vegetable matter, o Detoxify Pesticides, o Suppress plant diseases, o Suppression of Fusarium fungi o Assist plant roots in taking up Nutrients, o Produce bio-active and beneficial plant hormones, vitamins and enzymes o One very important function of soil microbes is to supply Oxygen to plant roots while they are fixing soil Nitrogen. o Many bacteria and fungi extracted from soil are able to synthesize compounds that provoke a growth response in plant tissue , namely indoleacetic acid or gibberellins, which are plant growth hormones. Others produce vitamins. Many may also produce unidentified growth factors. Beneficial organisms only inhabit about 5% of a root's Rhizosphere. (We call the root zone the rhizosphere) Some even enter and live in the root tissue and can pass good and bad things into plant roots. Some Accepted Facts It seems to be a general rule that plant growth is largely dependent upon the surrounding soil microflora, and especially those around the plant roots. Farmers using Mono-cultures, failing to rotate crops, using pesticides or chemicals which disrupt the soil's micro-organisms, reduce crop yields and can even lead to crop failures. Research indicates that the microflora within a plant's rhizosphere can accelerate growth and enhance resistance to disease. The Microflora can actually discourage some harmful insects by producing bioactive substances. It is not a coincidence that the first crop on any virgin lot is the best. The concept of IMO's, both above and below ground is proving beneficial to NFS. It can be reasonably surmised that maintaining these beneficial micro-organisms around the plants influences crop quality, and also that destruction of the microflora leads to poorer quality. However the one draw back to the Micro-organism systems is that every different place has different micro-organisms and it is almost impossible to predict which will predominate at any one place. Many commercial companies have promoted their micro-organism as anti-pest and a growth enhancer. This can not be predicted for plants or places other than the place where the microbes were manufactured and tested. It is important to know that soil micro-organisms vary tremendously. Luckily for us most of the micro-organisms are good ones. Fertile and productive soils generally have lots of organic matter which is necessary for sustaining high counts of micro-organisms. It could therefore be said that NFS is largely dependent upon fertilization with organic composts. A limited sample from micrographs of soils seems to indicate that microbial colonies seem to be isolated to only 20% of the volume of the soils tested. This would indeed leave the way open for fantastic soil improvement if this percentage could be increased. Seaweeds, fish meal, and chitin from crushed crab shells,(all having come from the sea, which contains every imaginable element)supplement soil micronutrients (all the trace elements needed by plants). In addition the beneficial antibiotic-producing actinomycetes also increase, which makes the soil disease-suppressing. How Soil micro-organisms Help Us o Soil Micro-organisms basically decompose plant matter into its NPK and trace elements. o They also enhance soils by Nitrogen fixing. o They act as catalysts to help roots absorb nutrients and can create anti-biotics which hold plant pathogens off. o Low production of greenhouse gases (e.g., methane, ammonia, and carbon dioxide) o The IMO brews with high Carbon and Low Nitrogen destroy the bad fungi like Fusarium, which prefer the abused soils which tend to high Nitrogen and low organic matter. o The IMO brews appear to encourage the anti-biotic microbes which produce. Penicillium, Trichoderma, and Aspergillus, and especially the and actinomycetes of the genus Streptomyces o Good crop yields result from a soil which has lots of anti-biotic Microbes and many Nitrogen fixing microbes. o IMO's attempt to capture these good microbes in a liquid form Foliar Spraying Explained There are presently two ways of using IMO derivatives for increased plant heath and growth: The first is by Spraying directly onto plants, the other is by adding to soils, composts, or mulches. Incorrect Foliar Spraying is wasted effort and can be dangerous to plants (This Authors believes that the local practice of Foliar Feeding Orchids, (which are saprophytic and surface feeders), has led most growers to misunderstanding how foliar feeding works, what it can do, and how it does it. What Is Foliar Feeding ? o How do leaves accept feeding? o When is it best to spray? o How effective is the spray? o What do we need to add to the spray? o What is the most effective way to spray? What is the difference between Foliar Spraying and Foliar Feeding? Foliar spraying is the general term for spraying such things as pesticides or herbicides onto plants. Foliar feeding is the more specific term for spraying nutrients onto plant leaves as a means of counteracting nutrient shortages within the plant. Indigenous Micro-organisms, Bio-stimulants, vitamins, hormones or anti-desiccants are also sometimes sprayed on foliage. There is a great deal more to foliar feeding than just spraying plants with a nutrient mix. Leaves and plants do not easily absorb outside substances, because over millions of years, they have developed elaborate protections against foreign substances,. Leaves The Waxy cuticle The waxy surface coating on leaves and stems makes them very poor water absorbers. Nature has designed leaves as the world's most efficient condensing surface for creating micro-droplets during mists and fogs, during which, condensed droplets run off the leaves down to the ground, which in turn water the plant roots at the Òdrip-line,Ó which is the place, under the ground, where the water-absorbing root-tip-hairs are. A leaf's wax cuticle is tender, and is the plant's only barrier against the outside world. It is designed to prevent water, chemicals, nutrients, and pathogens from entering the leaf. Damage To Foliage Leaves have millions of wax platelets, arranged like fish scales, covering the cuticle. These platelets stop water, but allow gases and water vapour to pass. It is unlikely that any of the IMO substances could enter a leaf through the cuticle. Any damage to these waxy scales allows pathogenic Bacteria to enter. Any disruption of the cuticle causes the leaves become leaky, thus causing a loss to the plant's efficient water usage. Environmental dusts settling between these wax platelets will disrupt water transpiration. Some very small particle sizes can work their way between the scales and cause damage, usually seen as brown, burnt leaf sections. Leaves need two to three weeks to regenerate new wax on their surfaces, but in general terms leaves can not actually repair cell damage. Some Other Causes Of Leaf Damage These five elements disrupt a leaf's wax cuticle, both in thickness and in size, and also increase the leaves' vulnerability to pests. o Very strong light. o Ultra-violet light o Infra-red light. o High Temperatures. o Low Humidity. IMO sprayed on leaves The quantity of the sprayed IMO and Fermented juices which may pass through a leaf's upper waxy surface has yet to be scientifically determined. Leaf Stomata Stomata, underneath most leaves, are the leaf's breathing holes. They are the only way in and out of a leaf. Stomata have daily opening and closing rhythms. Let us look at how and when leaves open and close their stomata, and how to use this to our advantage in foliar spraying Leaves have more chloroplasts and stomata than do stems. Cacti have far less stomata than regular leaves. Stomata apertures affect the rate of photosynthesis and water uptake Carbon dioxide, oxygen and water vapour have to pass through the stomata openings Light increases the stomata size, causing more water loss Most leaves are thin, to allow light penetration and carbon dioxide entry into cells, for efficient photosynthesis Most leaves have their stomata openings on the bottom surfaces, so sprays should be applied upwards. Again, the quantity of the IMO and fermented juices pass into leaves has yet to be scientifically measured. Stomata Open and Close Signals The stomata in leaves are constantly altering their opening size to balancing available CO2, Relative Humidity, Temperature and Light. Foliar applications need stomata fully open for best penetration. Young leaves are sensitive organs with very permeable, immature cuticles, through which nutrients and chemicals penetrate much more easily than they penetrate older leaves, which have heavier cuticles, denser hairs and slower reactions to opening and closing their stomata. Very young leaves would probably be penetrated by IMO sprays. Younger leaves are more easily damaged by foliar sprays. Leaves developed during high temperatures have a much thinner cuticle than those from colder surroundings. These thinner cuticles are more easily affected by strong sprays. Strong chemicals become phyto-toxic (phyto = plant). Thin cuticle leaves are also more easily penetrated by bugs and pathogens. Leaves are leaching nutrients out all the time. These are the very same nutrients that an inexperienced grower wants to apply as a foliar-feed. Vast quantities of the mobile nutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium, Magnesium and Molybdenum) are washed off leaves by condensation and rain. (Especially as the leaves get older) For this reason, it is best to foliar feed only when observing the symptoms of a specific Nutrient shortage. Mobile nutrients should not be the ones usually sprayed, other than in exceptional shortage circumstances. Most of a foliar spray ends up on the ground. When to Foliar Feed Foliar feeding can be five times as efficient at delivering chemicals to the roots. As a rule, foliar feeding is too efficient to be used routinely, because it can cause a plant's nutrient balance to change. Spraying should be limited to times when plants need more nutrition than the roots can supply. For example: o In cold clear weather, where light is activating the leaves but the roots are too cool to supply the leaves demands, a supplemental spray may be necessary. o In poor soil when the weather is good, and the roots cannot supply sufficient nutrients for the rapid growth a supplemental spray is used o High-yield plants in heavy flower and fruit can sometimes manifest a specific short-term need which a spray will correct. Spraying should be done as soon as symptoms of nutrient deficiency are observed. Sprays should be well-timed, properly formulated (Chemical Fertilizer). Foliar feeding should be judiciously applied, and only once. This should have the plant healthy in about a week. After the first week a second spray of (Chemical Fertilizer) may be all that is required to get the plant back to health.. If this does not solve the problems, there are other problems which need to be investigated. Micro-nutrient shortage symptoms can be quickly fixed with a Chemical Nutrient Spray, but go extremely light with the micro-nutrients., and never spray them more than once a week. Other Times to Foliar Feed At the very first symptoms of a nutrient deficit, a Chemical foliar feed can fix the problem before there is any long-term loss of yield, and will give the grower time to find the source of the problem. Unfortunately, if the roots have a basic nutrient uptake problem, no amount of foliar feed will help in the long term, Foliar feeds confuse the normal internal pathways of plant nutrition. If plants develop high quantities of nutrients in their leaves, the roots progressively shut down the plant's nutrient supply, worsening the original root problem. In a high-yield garden, when a plant has fast-growing flowers and fruits, the phloem (the plant's internal supply tubes for nutrients) is usually slow in moving calcium, boron and iron to the fast growing sites. So these places often need to receive a supplemental Nutrient spray. Nitrogen/urea can be a timely supplemental spray on young plants that have not yet built up reserves. It can also be used on a fast blooming plant. Potassium is fast depleted by flowers and fruits. In a high-yield plant, approaching this stage, a spray of potassium every other week can assist fast flowering and fruiting. Flowering and fruiting high-yield plants in conditions below 10¡C and above 25¡C can experience root-potassium shortages, at which times a foliar application may be called for. Nutrient Considerations For Chemical Nutrient foliar feeding to be non-phyto-toxic, sprays must contain only minute fractions of chemical. To give some idea of quantity, bear in mind that a large flowering shrub will absorb only two or three teaspoons of nutrients in a whole year, How Concentrated In a one-litre spray bottle filled with water, two or three grains would be enough. A spray concentration must never exceed an (Electrical Conductivity) EC=0.5 to1.0, which approximately 400 - 700 PPM (Parts Per Million). Dried Nutrient Salts building up on sprayed plants are always a problem, which leads to what is called osmotic shock. Osmotic shock is not always obvious, it will not brown immediately, only after some time does the burned foliage show where the strong spray settled, by which time it is too late. Incorrect Foliar Spray results If you misdiagnose a shortage and spray Chemical Fertilizer based on bad assumptions, you have a double problem. It took a week to develop the problem in the first place, and it will take another week before you can see if your remedy has worked. Some forms of Chemical Nitrogen are so mobile that they can rush into the stomata extremely fast. If the humidity happens to be high (stomata full open), it can cause plant burn. Unfortunately it does not help to dilute the mix, because however much there is, it goes straight into the cells. This can sometimes be used to advantage. When other nutrients are mixed into the nitrogen mix, it will carry these others in with it much more easily. Phyto-toxicity is difficult to predict. Very often chemicals that are harmless on plants when used individually, when mixed together become phyto-toxic and burn the plant. Never guess, when mixing different spray additives together. Experiment on non essential plants. Spray Effectiveness The effectiveness of foliar feeding depends first on the rate of absorption, and then how quickly the absorbed nutrients reach their destination in the plant cells. Nutrients with a low mobility (calcium sulfur, iron, boron, copper, manganese and zinc) should be applied several times. Foliar feeding calcium does not usually help, because it is too immobile to move through the plant. The following plant characteristics affect Foliar Spray effectiveness: o The thickness of the leaf skin, (which is the waxy cuticle that protects a leaf by keeping water out and letting only gasses in), is a major obstacle against nutrient absorption o The more stomata a plant has the more area there is for the spray to enter o When the stomata are closed, plants are not transpiring or circulating fluids, so spraying during those times is a waste. When the stomata are closed, plants are not transpiring or circulating fluids, so spraying during those times is a waste. o High concentrations of surrounding carbon dioxide, high temperature, low humidity, and dry root conditions, all close down the stomata. Stomata use an internal water pressure of about 100 lbs/sq inch before they start opening, (more pressure than in a car tire). o Different types of leaf hairs will affect how sprayed substances flow and penetrate into their mat to reach the cuticle. Most leaves have hairs. Some are singular, like a cactus, and some are velvety, like peaches and young fruits. Tomato plants are an example of small, very dense hairs which let no water pass, and sprays generally run off with without any penetration. o Spray timing is a key factor for stomata penetration. The Environment in early mornings, with high humidity and low temperatures, condenses a natural moist film on leaves. This is the best time to achieve Òsoak throughÓ. o If the air is too hot, sprays evaporate quickly and leave Nutrient Salt residues evaporated on the hairs. o The pH of Sprayed Chemical Nutrient influences stomata opening. A foliar feed of pH 7.0 to pH 9.0 is most efficient, because high pH helps stomata penetration, but be careful with the spray runoff, because if it has a high pH, it can damage the plant's roots. o Sprays pH below pH 7.0, tend to close the stomata. IMO, and its derivatives, having been largely created by anaerobic Fermentation may be below pH 7.0. This presents a problem and should have the pH raised a Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) o Temperature and light activate a plant's metabolism, which is an indirect measure of how fast a plant will absorb and redirect any chemicals sprayed on it. o High light, low carbon dioxide and high humidity stimulate stomata opening, so choose the best of these conditions for spraying. Surfactants added to Foliar Sprays. The sprayed Chemical nutrient has to get into the stomata before it can start working. Hence we have to add a surfactant to Foliar Sprays in order to break the surface tension of the water and allow entry into the stomata. Surfactants reduce the surface tension of water and make it spread in an extremely thin layer. Without surfactants, spray drops remain the size of rain drops (much the same as those on a car's windshield,) and roll off the plant with no effect. The advantage of a surfactant can be considerable. Soaps and detergents are, in fact, surfactants. They can be liquids or powders, and can be used on plants. Specialty Plant-spray surfactants usually have no charge, which means that they do not react with the plant's chemical charges.. We also want a bio-degradable product that does not stay on the plant forever, Surfactants generally make up to 3 percent by volume of the total spray. Try your spray on a tomato leaf or a peach, and see if it instantly wets through to the skin. Stomata holes are even finer than these hairs so, the spray will usually run off without getting into the Stomata. All foliar sprays must contain sufficient surfactant to facilitate stomata entry. Whether IMO and fermented juices, without a surfactant, have a sufficiently low surface tension and can gain sufficient entry into a leaf, has yet to be measured. How To Foliar Spray If you spray your plants too often, you will damage and kill them, mainly because the spray concentration on leaves is cumulative. Foliar nutrients that enter the stomata are mostly redistributed to the plant cells via the phloem tubules. Spraying too often leads to too much residue, and salts that can then burn the leaves. Rule 1 Always spray from the bottom up into the stomata. Plant hairs (trichomes) on hairy plants reduce or even stop water and nutrient penetration. Place a peach under water and its surface comes out completely dry. Avoid making large drops of spray. Always create a fine mist of humidity at the spray tip. Very fine mist drops cause the surface to electrically attract them as a fine film layer that will not roll off. Rule 2 Do not spray when a plant is hot or the surroundings are too dry. A further disadvantage of hot dry surroundings is that the salts in the spray soon crystallize, and will then penetrate no further. Mobile nutrients move freely around in a plant. Others can move only very slowly, and some cannot move once they have been deposited. Even after a plant has successfully absorbed a spray, it still has to move the nutrients to where they are needed. Rule 3. High-mobility Chemical nutrients, such as nitrogen (especially urea), potassium, and phosphorous, should be applied very sparingly, Low-mobility Chemical nutrients, such as copper, zinc, sulphur, manganese and iron, often need more than one application. Immobile nutrients, such as calcium and boron, are not generally used as a foliar feed, because they cannot be translocated down the phloem by the plant. A urea/nitrogen spray in high humidity has almost instant penetration into the leaves. Because of this, you must be careful not to make the urea too strong. This nitrogen tends to carry other nutrients along with it into the plant, so it can be used as a base mix. Rule 4. Where possible, spray the new growth, because it still has thin cuticles and few hairs, which means good penetration. Rule 5. Sprays Use pH 7 to pH 8.5 for foliar sprays. Below pH 4 and above pH 8.5, potassium phosphate (K2HPO4) is toxic to leaves even at lower concentrations. Plant stomata get a strong open/close signal from pH, and low pH sends a strong close signal. Rule 6. Always use a surfactant with foliar sprays. Add enough to break the surface tension, usually about 3%. Dishwashing detergent has a negative charge, but is OK. Leaves are constantly taking in carbon dioxide and passing out oxygen and water vapour through their stomata, so there is no way that any solution with a high surface tension can pass through the inner cuticle. A strong, preferably non-polarized, surfactant is needed. Secrets For A Successful Spray o Use the highest concentration, one that will not burn the leaves, but will give the best absorption. Do not over-concentrate the mix, or the leaves will burn and die. o Add sufficient wetting agent to prevent droplets from forming on the leaves. If drops form, they will just roll off with no effect. o Stop applying spray long before the spray forms drops, which will create a sheet of water which will flow off the leaf like a sheet of plastic. o Do not use a nozzle that creates large droplets, because these will bounce off like tennis balls. o The test of a good mix, applied by a good operator, is one that will cover, but not flow down, a vertical sheet of glass. Personal Conclusion Because I am a Greenhouse Hydroponic Specialist, Scientifically trained on Chemical Nutrients and because of my training in Foliar Feeding, I have serious reservations about the efficacy of this IMO system when applied as a non-controlled Foliar Spray. I have not been able to find any scientific experiments or verification for the claims of IMO applied as a foliar spray. However there seems to be anecdotal evidence that some good is derived from the IMO spraying system. So far I have seen more convincing evidence of IMO's efficacy as a feed supplement to control waste odours and as a composter. My training with soilless growing mediums leads me to believe that this entire microbe utilization would be best used as a soil additive for soil health. Graham Reinders 8 October 2005 ------------------------------------------------ San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org ------------------------------------------------ http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting ------------------------------------------------ http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> Subject: Looking for Toilet Paper Rolls (empty of course!) Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 06:16:56 +0300 (IDT) From: ariel023 Hi friends I am using the empty toilet paper rolls (tubes) made out of card board for propagation of cuttings and planting of large seeds. I fill it with the wet peat moss mixture, arrange in a drained plastic box with 4-5 cms of mixture as a bottom layer also, cover with PE and I get portable, mini glass house conditions for the germination - rooting of hard wood cutting. The final planting is with the roll itself so that the roots are not damaged during transplanting. It reminds the Giffy type that was common 20 years ago Ariel ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Good News for seed importers in the USA! Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 22:49:01 -0000 From: "oscarrj" First I want to thank Stephan Reeves for leading me to find out about this new law change. The USDA Aphis branch will be changing its rules for seed importation. As you may remember in April 2004 USDA asked for comments regarding possible changes to be made to return to the old method of just needing an import permit. 45 people submitted comments, 42 of which were in favor of reducing the need for a phytosanitary certificate. Thanks to those of you who took the time to submit comments. It worked! OK, it only took USDA over 2 years to do something, but at least they did take action! As a result, as of May 15, 2006 Aphis will allow the importation of small seed quantities without the need for a phytosanitary certificate. You will still need to have an import permit, and the seeds will still be inspected on arrival before release. But there will not be the need to get an inspection and phyto certificate from the country of export. As you may know in many cases this was either impossible, next to impossible, or so costly as to make it not worth while. The way Aphis is defining "small" quantities is 50 packets or less of no more than 50 seeds each, or 10 grams each, from each taxon. For additional information, see attached link: http://www.regulations.gov, click on the "Advanced Search" tab and select "Docket Search." In the Docket ID field, enter APHIS-2006- 0053, then click on "Submit." The [final rule, affirmation, etc.] will appear in the resulting list of documents. You may also contact Dr. Arnold T. Tschanz, Senior Staff Officer, Commodity Import Analysis and Operations Staff, PPQ, APHIS, 4700 River Road, Unit 133, Riverdale, MD 20737-1236; (301) 734-5306. Oscar, Happy in Hawaii ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: Passiflora identification question Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 21:40:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Waters I have a passiflora variety I found in an exotic fruit market in Vancouver. The fruit is orange with flecks of black spots, almost the size of the palm of your hand. Its crust is like an eggshell, it cracks and peels off easily to reveal white fluffy grapefruit like interior, and then beyond that it contains black seeds with gray arils, taste is tangy tropical flavor. I planted the seed and it is a beautiful plant, but only 1 large oval leaf, instead of the three lobed ones. DOes anyone know what this is? since it was planted in september 2005 it may still be too young for 3 lobes to start. WIll it change to a 3 lobed leaf? I cant wait to see the flower! I will post pics. Tom W. ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ Subject: GM Papaya Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 17:05:49 EDT From: kahiwal@cs.com GM papaya have been hyped as a huge success story - nothing could be further from the truth. --- Hawaiian papaya: market loss and contamination By MELANIE BONDERA Bangkok Post, 27 April 2006 http://www.biothai.org/cgi-bin/content/news/show.pl?0206 Why do creators of the genetically-engineered (GE) papaya fruit have to push so hard to introduce it? If the GE papaya is really a simple solution to a major agricultural disease that farmers want, it would be readily adopted by governments, farmers and markets. However, it is not. The concern over this genetically modified orgnanism (GMO) food is so great, that it creates resistance, loss of markets, contamination and more loss of markets. In Thailand, the government has a ban on field trials and hasn't commercially released the papaya after almost a decade of testing. Farmers have shown resistance and expressed concern that the European Union and Japan don't want to import the GM papaya. In Jamaica, the GM papaya was never commercially released after many years of field trials as the primary export market is the EU, which does not tolerate GM papaya. In Venezuela, field trials were cancelled after a medical doctor advised the public against eating GM papaya. Attempts to release the GM papaya in such diverse places as Mexico, Australia, Taiwan and Brazil have all been thwarted by governments and farmers who fear market loss and contamination. In Hawaii, despite a major epidemic of ring spot virus, it took heavy pressure and combating farmer resistance to introduce the GM papaya. The University of Hawaii and the US Department of Agriculture could have aggressively educated or required the farmers in the Puna growing area on the island of Hawaii to chop down and burn all virus-infected trees. The reduction of the virus would have kept the disease at its usual endemic levels and not allowed it to reach the epidemic. Farmers could also have been advised not to grow in huge plantations, to intercrop, to use soil amendments to grow healthier trees, plant trap-crops for the aphid vector, and spray or spread silicates to block aphid penetration of leaves. The amount of time and money to do this would have been far less than the efforts to force the introduction of the GM papaya. In order to get the GM papaya introduced, the big papaya packing companies who ship to Japan, Hawaii's most lucrative papaya market, had asked the legislature to require the University of Hawaii to aggressively educate the little papaya farmers who ring the big farms (who sell non-GM fruit to Japan) to chop down their trees and plant GM trees. These large, powerful growers didn't want to grow GM papaya. They wanted the little farmers to be the buffer zone to protect them from the virus. This caused the little farmers to form a group called the Papaya Freedom Fighters to fight this forced introduction of GM papaya. There were close to 200 papaya farmers in the main growing area at the time of introduction and 150 members of the Papaya Freedom Fighters at their peak. This group experienced various kinds of threats from the forces introducing the GM papaya. From 1998, the commercial release of the GM papaya in Hawaii until now, we've lost half of our papaya farmers. The primary reason is the GM papaya has never been worth as much as the non-GM fruit. Our biggest loss is much of the Japanese market. They were 60% of Hawaii's market at the time of the introduction of the GM papaya and they slammed the door shut on GMOs. Despite government assurances, they have never reopened that in seven years. Even if they did, consumer rejection in food contamination-sensitive Japan is almost assured. Canada shut down their market. They reopened it five years later to GM papaya, but it remains a small sliver of our market. Some GM papayas go to the US mainland, but that market is primarily held by Mexico and Brazil. Most GM papayas are dumped on the local market here in Hawaii, unlabelled. Marketing GM papayas in Hawaii unlabelled, has been the biggest source of contamination. The proponents of the GM papaya like to focus the discussion of contamination issues around pollen. This is a diversionary tactic. Each genetically modified papaya, purchased and eaten, leaves 100-500 GM seeds to be thrown out into our environmentally-planted areas. To legally farm GM papaya, you have to buy the seed from the university, sign a contract and watch a video on buffer zones to prevent pollen escape. Most consumers have accidentally planted many more, just by eating papaya for breakfast regularly. GMO Free Hawaii began testing papayas in 2003 for farmers and gardeners who didn't want GM papayas and consistently found 30-50% GM contaminated papayas in places they shouldn't be. In 2004, GMO Free Hawaii did a pilot Contamination Study to bring to light this contamination and call for further in-depth studies. With independent PCR testing, we found 50% contamination on the island within the major growing area, 5% contamination on Oahu and the University of Hawaii's seed supply contaminated at 1%. Organic farmers started testing and were shocked to find contamination on their farms. This led to market loss and often the chopping down of trees in efforts to decontaminate. Toi Lahti lost three separate markets and his seed line, which he'd been developing for 17 years. GMO are not allowed in organic production in the US. Many organic farmers are choosing to grow other crops as it is no longer possible to grow organic papaya in Hawaii. The farmers and big papaya packers who still sell non-GM papaya to Japan, have to spend a lot of time and labour testing papayas to prove they are not contaminated. Each tree and each shipment need testing and the Department of Agriculture verifies by testing 1% of each of those. This is a fragile system which still allows for some GM-contaminated fruits and many GM-contaminated seeds to get through. Japan may at any point lose patience with this contamination and look for papayas from another country which has protected its growing areas from the rampant GM contamination of papaya that we have here in Hawaii. Melanie Bondera is a farmer on Kanalani Ohana Farm, on the Big Island of Hawaii. She works with GMO Free Hawaii on the problems of GM papaya in Hawaii. <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200605A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - May 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200605B.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Book: çrboles frutales ex—ticos y poco conocidos en Puerto Rico (Fruit Trees - Exotic And Little Known In Puerto Rico) Read about it in "Readers Write." I especially recommend it for you if you have some fluency in Spanish, and if you are not, it still is useful for its photographs and line drawings. Several new subscribers for you to help with their questions. I appreciate your participation in making them feel welcome. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber-Near Palm Springs, California Susan Reese "New" Subscriber, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands, BWI "Walton, Joel" New Subscriber - Camarillo, CA Larry Modugno New Subscriber "Brian S. Hopson" New Subscriber - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia "Dol Malek" New Subscriber - San Luis Obispo County, California "Smith Held" <><><> Readers Write <><><> Book-çrboles frutales ex—ticos y poco conocidos en Puerto Rico Leo Manuel Bell Shenoi looking for nurseries in Florida Otto Tonti Mystery passionfruit "Holzinger, Bob" To: Tom Re: Champagne Mango "david.crfg-sd" To: "Hallin, Max" Re: Fruit For Congestion Problems Dan Jaboticaba phil hamilton Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of CRFG Leo Manuel Passionfruit in Ukraine? (Former USSR) Igor Lyannoy <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm To Bag a Bad Beetle, Researchers Tap Forensic Science ARS News Service Seed-Rotting Microbes Sought to Battle Weeds ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber-Near Palm Springs, California Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2006 07:52:49 -0800 From: Susan Reese Hi, I am Suze Reese, in the Palm Springs, California, USA area. I have no fruit trees at the moment, although I would like a Mexican guava, pineapple guava, and want to know of others. My favorite is Mango. We have a lot of citrus here in the valley, ripe for the picking on local streets. I prepare the local olives in various Mediterranean recipes. I subscribed to this newsletter a few years back and find myself referring to it in many conversations. Kindest Regards Suze ------------------------------------------------ Subject: "New" Subscriber, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands, BWI Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 10:29:50 -0500 From: "Walton, Joel" Thanks - I used to receive the newsletter before but anyway here goes: I am Joel Walton, living on Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands, BWI. I grow mango, avocado, bananas, plantains, citrus, atemoya, sugar apple, guanabana, corazon, mulberry, burdekin plum, ciruela, ambarella, coffee, nutmeg, pomegranate, grape, strawberry, pineapples, ackee, mamey sapote, sapodilla, breadfruit, grumicham, pitomba, cherry of the rio grande, guavas, sugar cane, jaboticaba, carambola, acerola, pitanga, pitahaya, chaya, bay leaf, curry leaf, allspice, grossella, caimityo, abui, lychee (no fruit set), longan (no fruit set), date, grapes, rambai, white sapote (no fruit set), cashew, wax jambu, etc Looking to learn about dates and pitahayas Best regards, Joel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Camarillo, CA Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 10:51:15 -0700 From: Larry Modugno I am Larry Modugno and my wife Betty & I live in Camarillo, CA. Our more tropical fruit trees we are growing are the papaya, sapote and banana. Our other trees are the macadamia, loquat, peach, avocado, lemon, lime, fig, Anna Apple, Granny Smith Apple, plum, apricot, orange, tangerine, Nashi pear, Japanese persimmon. I am interested in planting a Mango tree and do not know how well they grow in this (Ventura County) area. I would appreciate any help on growing Mangos. My Email is: lmodugno@adelphia.net Thank you Larry Modugno ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber Date: Mon, 08 May 2006 11:40:43 -0700 (PDT) From: "Brian S. Hopson" I am interested in finding & eating rare banana fruit. Sign me up! Brian mailto:bhop31@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Date: Tue, 09 May 2006 07:20:39 +0100 (BST) From: "Dol Malek" Hi Leo, I'm interested to received your rarefruit newsletter. Here some info about my self My name : Dol Malek Country : Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Profession : Engineer Currently I'm growing grape, dragon fruit, fig, mulbery and other tropical fruits in my land. I'm very much interested in grape for tropical country. Currently i have 5 type of grape which 2 give me a good fruits every time. Other than grape i like to plant fruit that is exotic in my country. Hope your newsletter will five some info that is valuable to me. Dol Malek ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - San Luis Obispo County, California Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 15:00:45 -0400 (EDT) From: "Smith Held" I am Smith Held, in Cayucos, San Luis Obispo County, California. I grow avocados, oranges, blood oranges, cherimoyas, macadamias and tangerines, and am interested in lychees. Thank you, Smitty <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Book: çrboles frutales ex—ticos y poco conocidos en Puerto Rico (Fruit Trees - Exotic And Little Known In Puerto Rico) http://www.laeditorialupr.com/catalogo/DisplayDetail.aspx?which=597 Seems to show price of only $26.06, rather than $28.95 Authors Juan A. Rivero and Bryan R. Brunner ISBN: 0-8477-2346-1 Retail: $28.95 Publisher: La Editorial, Universidad de Puerto Rico PO Box 23322 - San Diego Juan PR 00931-3322 1-877-838-7788; F. 787.753.9116 http://www.laedicotialupr.com mailto:erivera@upr.edu Published: April, 2006 Pages: 358 Illustrations: 250+ color photographs, 30+ color illustrations, 10 B&W line drawings Size: 5 1/2" x 8 1/2" x 1" Format: Paperback Subjects: Gardening/Trees, Science/Horticulture Distributor: Baker & Taylor Barcoded: Yes Description: "This lavishly illustrated guide describes rare and exotic fruit trees grown in Puerto Rico. Aside from each tree's physical description, every entry elaborates on its propagation, cultivation, uses, plagues, varieties and related species. Common names in English are listed alongside the Spanish and Latin names. The book also includes a guide to further reading, a glossary of relevant horticultural terms, a graphic guide to grafting, budding and layering terms and a directory of rare and exotic tree owners in Puerto Rico." Leo's comments: I only received this book a few days ago, but it is worthwhile for its color photographs and graphic guide to grafting, budding, and layering, even if it is in Spanish - a language in which I am not fluent. In addition to what's described above, there are extensive Table of Contents and Index. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Bell Shenoi looking for nurseries in Florida Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 22:09:12 -0400 From: Otto Tonti In Miami: Pine Island Nursery, 16300 S.W. 184th St. Miami, FL 33187 Ph: 305-233-5501 Winter Garden: Our KidÕs Tropicals 17229 Phil C Peters Rd. Winter Garden, FL 34787 E-mail: ourkidstro@aol.com Ph: 407-877-6883 Pine Island: The Treehouse (Bob & Vivian MurrayÉvery knowledgeable) 15621 Quail Trail Bokeelia, FL 33922 Ph: 239-283-1640 Pine Island: Mango Tango Tropicals 5371 Stringfellow Rd. St. James City, FL Ph: 239-283-1900 Fort Myers: ECHO Edible Landscape Nursery 17430 Durrance Rd. No. Ft. Myers, FL 33917 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Mystery passionfruit Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 08:06:21 -0700 From: "Holzinger, Bob" To: Tom Hi Tom, Read your note to RFNO about the passionfruit you picked up in Vancouver (British Columbia I suppose). Sounds like Passifora ligularis to me. It's not that easy to grow: it's picky about its sun exposure, soil temperature and air temperature. As far as I know it is not self fruitful, but that may not be true. If you have sereral seedlings growing, then they could cross pollinate each other, but you'll probably have to be the "bee". Good luck, Bob Holzinger ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Champagne Mango Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 21:53:59 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: "Hallin, Max" I'm not the expert. I copied an expert on this. But my guess is that the Champagne is just another Phillipine type poly-embryonic mango. Those produce several seedlings from one of their seeds. If you extract and plant the seed it will put up several sprouts. You would want to snip off all but one. Chances are that the most vigorous shoot was produced by pollination so it will not be true to the parent. All the other ones are clones that will be true to the parent. The tree will probably grow and produce here, but I don't know how sensitive it will be to various kinds of mildew and the fruit will not taste exactly the same because your climate and watering are different than wherever the commercial ones are grown. Take care. David [Another name for Champagne mango is Ataulfo - or it is at least a variation of Ataulfo. -Leo] ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Champagne Mango From: Hallin, Max Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:09 PM Dear David, My wife and I were enjoying one of these awesome mangos the other night and were curious if the trees grow here in San Diego? -MH ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Fruit For Congestion Problems Date: Wed, 03 May 2006 07:48:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Permacltur@aol.com Dancy tangerine is reputed to have exactly this benefit (among those others standard to all citrus.) We have been looking, albeit haphazardly, for a Dancy source in North Central Florida, by the way. Dan Hemenway In a message dated 4/30/06 10:07:51 PM, Ed Brandon writes: Hi Leo I am looking for any fruit that would help in congestion problems I already grow about 100 rare fruits. I hope some of your people would know which would help me. Ed Brandon FL eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------------------- The protocol for our Annual Permaculture Design Course Online is atÊ Ê http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/Protocol6-13-05Word.pdfÊFor other permaculture information, go to http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.orgÊ Our 11th annual Permaculture Design Course Online begins Nov. 5, 2006.Ê We also accept late registrations to our online course cycle now underway. A list by topic of all Yankee Permaculture titles also may be found at http://csf.colorado.edu/perma/ypc_catalog.htmlÊ Ê ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jaboticaba Date: Sat, 06 May 2006 22:19:14 -0700 (PDT) From: phil hamilton Where could one find to purchase any of the varieies of jaboticaba like Branca Paulista Sabara OR Ponhema ?? I have a regular Jaboticaba from seed which is appx 4 years old, but am tired of waiting for it to fruit. Thanks in advance Phil Hamilton Leander, Texas ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of CRFG Date: Sat, 13 May 2006 20:04:33 -0700 From: Leo Manuel The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of CRFG April Meeting-The program for the April meeting was a presentation on Ethno-Botany by Carl Hansen. Carl summarized the work of the giants in the field including: Richard Evans Schultes (the pioneer in this field), Wade Davis, Dr. Andrew Weil, and Paul Cox all students of Schultes. He then described work he had done for the Dept. of Homeland security in the collection extracts from plants available in Hawaii for laboratory evaluation to determine their efficacy in combating bacteria used in biological warfare. He then discussed the medicinal properties of plants found in Southern California, attending members also shared their knowledge in this area in the discussion that followed. His handout also listed these web resources. 1. Dr. Duke database http://www.ars-grin.gov./duke/ethnobot.html 2. Native American Ethnobotany 3. Fruits of Warm Climates< http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton.index/html> 4. Jepson manual of California flowering plants http://ucjeps.berkley.edu/interchange/I_treat_indexes.html MAY MEETING- There will be NO Meeting Friday May 19. Saturday May 20 we will tour the California Tropical Fruit Nursery. This is a large nursery with a wide selection of subtropical fruit trees. They are located at 2081 Elevado Road in Vista. The tour is at 10 am, their parking is extremely limited so we will meet in the parking lot at the SE corner of East Vista Way and Warmlands at 9:45 am and carpool from there. June Meeting- We will meet June16 at 7 PM in Room T402, bldg T400. Vincent Lazaneo will speak on 'Citrus Pests' including DIAPREPES root weevil (a pest new to San Diego County. Harry Nickerson NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passionfruit in Ukraine? (Former USSR) Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 14:25:20 +0300 From: Igor Lyannoy Hello Leo! I found your e-mail through rarefruit news online. Are you still growing edible Passiflora? If so, which? Best regards, Igor Lyannoy - Ukraine <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: To Bag a Bad Beetle, Researchers Tap Forensic Science Date: Thu, 04 May 2006 09:21:16 -0400 From: ARS News Service Tracking the elusive Asian longhorned beetle (ALB) could soon get a whole lot easier--and weirder. Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists have developed a novel "fingerprinting" tool that relies on analyzing, of all things, the invasive beetle's droppings to help give it away. According to ARS insect geneticist Wayne Hunter, what's so telling about the insect's "frass," is that it has a genetic signature that's totally unique to the beetle. Hunter works in the agency's Subtropical Insects Research Unit at Fort Pierce, Fla. So Hunter, with help from ARS insect behaviorist Michael T. Smith, developed genetic markers that can be used to screen frass found on trees known to attract ALB. If a sample matches the insect's established genetic profile, beetle hunters will know they've got a potential infestation on their hands. Two things make the ALB one of the country's most "wanted" invasives. First, its ravenous appetite for hardwoods--like maple, elm and birch--threatens forests and tree-lined neighborhoods across the East. Second, a quiet killer, the beetle inflicts its greatest damage while hidden deep inside trees. Immature ALBs create elaborate tunnels while feeding there, weakening trees until they finally snap in half or must be cut down. Adding to the ALB control arsenal, Smith has also developed a method for controlling the alien insect. Smith, who works in the ARS Beneficial Insects Introduction Research Unit at Newark, Del., has recently discovered that an insecticide, already in use against other insect pests, is practically 100 percent effective against ALB. Smith's findings show that the chemical--a pyrethroid called Demand--can knock down adult beetles in just minutes. Using the insecticide as a fast-acting detector, beetle-hunting crews could simply spray trees suspected of harboring the insects and wait for the bugs to fall. Now, crews must climb trees one by one and scrutinize bark for the faintest signs of ALB activity. Read more about the research in the current issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/may06/beetle0506.htm ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Seed-Rotting Microbes Sought to Battle Weeds Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 09:46:12 -0400 From: ARS News Service New, integrated approaches to battling annual broadleaf weeds may enlist beneficial soil microbes that ÒhitÓ the pesky plants where it hurts--their seed banks. These banks are reserves of thousands, even millions, of weed seeds that lie dormant beneath the soil awaiting favorable conditions to germinate, according to Joanne Chee-Sanford, a microbiologist with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) in Urbana, Ill. Since 2002, Chee-Sanford has been piecing together the conditions under which certain fungi and bacteria will cause decay in dormant weed seeds, killing them or diminishing their fitness. Classical biological control would call for unleashing the microbes onto a targeted weed to fight it, but Chee-Sanford has a slightly different tactic in mind. Rather than apply microbes as biological control agents, she envisions bolstering the activity of microbes that already occur in the soils naturally, possibly using an amendment of some kind. The problem is, seedbank soils are home to many microbial species with different ecological roles to fill, notes Chee-Sanford, with the ARS Invasive Weed Management Research Unit. Some only eat carbon and other nutrients exuded in the soil by seeds, while others use means such as powerful enzymes to breach the seed, steal its nutrients and cause decay. Sometimes, seed decay is a multimicrobe effort. In one study, for example, 99 percent of velvetleaf seeds underwent microbial decay after three months, particularly when the seeds were the only carbon available as food. The prime decay agents--Bacteroidetes and Proteobacteria, found in many soils--are known to degrade natural seed polymers. But Chee-Sanford is still trying to ascertain whether they were the initial cause of the seeds' decay, or mere contributors. Her efforts are part of a broader program within the Urbana unit to furnish midwestern farmers with new weed-management systems that integrate biological, chemical, cultural and mechanical control methods. Read more about the research in the May 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/may06/weeds0506.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of AgricultureÕs chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200605B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - June 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200606A.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Have you sent to me anything that I didn't acknowledge? My Netscape (or the computer I use) sometimes loses email. Today 179 (!) messages vanished and I doubt that I can retrieve them.... It's time to get our mango grafting planned for the summer. Rootstocks should ideally be in a growing flush. Of course, if you live in south Florida, you began already. I observed one pitaya bloom bud on a G-2 (Self-fertile, red flesh.) It is the first on any of my Hylocereus plants. Brewster and Sweetheart Lychee are blooming, and hopefully will hold its fruit. Also blooming are longan and mango at our home. I'd like more feedback from you about the direction (or lack of one) that the newsletter has taken. Also, send in information about web pages especially helpful to you. Fruit interest events coming up would be good to let us know about.... Tomorrow I'm getting a tweaking on my most recently repaired knee to increase the range of motion. It's an out-patient procedure and made an immediate change in my knee's flexibility last year to the other knee. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Panama, Requests Help Francisco A. Noriega A. New Subscriber - Cayucos, CA Paul janetski New Subscriber, South Africa Wil Lemmer New Subscriber-Dicky Beach, Queensland, Australia Tony Magrathea <><><> Readers Write <><><> Hylocereus megalanthus About To Bloom? William Chow Fruit Plants Direct from Thailand Bruce Livingstone How To Grow Muscat Grapes From Cuttings & Their Survival Lisa Pettineo Re: Banana Search Amy Fernandez To: Brian Wanted: Seeds of Passiflora vitifolia Igor Lyannoy RE: Passionfruit Igor Lyannoy Re: Utah Sweet Variety of Pomegranate "david.crfg-sd" To: "Dr. Barry Simmons" New Tropical Fruit Book Available fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Please Help Me Find Otaheite Gooseberry Fruit Trees Timnovida@aol.com Cool Season Fruit? Barbara Banks Re: Phil Hamilton's request for named Jaboticaba Otto Tonti RE: Champagne Mango "Hallin, Max" <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Potassium Chlorate and Longans Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: "Laurie (Hawai) Lee" <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Panama, Requests Help Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 09:27:02 -0600 From: Francisco A. Noriega A. I have few Avocado, Papaya, Guanabana, Banana (finger), Coconut, Mara–on (Cashew), Mango. I also have a young Carambola tree, seeds I bought in Costa Rica but I don't know exactly what could it be. Can you tell me where can I find info on how to grow rare fruits by type? Best regards Francisco A. Noriega A. Panama, PANAMA 8120509 mailto:p3panama@gmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Cayucos, CA Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 15:22:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul janetski Hi! My name is Paul Janetski and I live in Cayucos, CA. I have quite a few fruit trees, but the rare ones are my cherimoya trees and macadamia nut trees. I would like to grow some white sapote and passion fruit. Please add me to your online newsletter. You may send it to this email address. Thank you and happy growing! Paul ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, South Africa Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 21:58:50 +0300 From: Wil Lemmer Hi My name is Wil Lemmer and I live in South Africa. Currently I am in the middle of the Saudi Arabian desert where I am managing fruit orchards. It is mainly stone fruit but we have some table grapes and figs as well. At home in South Africa I am playing around with some indigenous fruits like the kei apple (Dovyalis) and numnum (Carissa). Very interested in all kinds of fruit so nothing in particular that I want to grow for now. Later might be a different story. regards Wil lemmer ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Dicky Beach, Queensland, Australia Date: Tue, 30 May 2006 12:58:41 +1000 From: Tony Magrathea I am Tony Magrathea, in Dicky Beach, Queensland, Australia What I'm growing: Lady Finger Bananas - Fruiting; Carambola - Fruiting; Passionfruit - Fruiting; Low Chill Nectarine - Fruiting; Sweetsop; Soursop; Mango; Lychee; Longan; Loquat; Passionfruit; Black Mulberry; Monstera; Kafir Lime; Orange - Navel; Lemon-Myer; Bush Lemon; Ice Cream Bean; Paw Paw (Papaya)-Red Fruited; Cashew; Chocolate Pudding Fruit; Theobroma Cacao; Feijoa; Kumquat; Mangosteen; Olive; Ceylon Spinach (Not A Ture Fruit - But A Food Vine); Casabanana; Senegal Cherry; Jabacotiba; Midyim Berry; Lilipili - Several Varieties; Cape Gooseberry A lot of these trees and shrubs have been grown from seed - so some are a few years off production because the garden has only been a productive garden for a bit over two years. We have a terrible problem with fruit fly so everything gets bagged or covered in a fly screen sleeve to try and stop the little menaces. We encourage the birdlife and reptiles by growing blossom trees and covering the ground in thick mulch - Our latest bit of wild life have been barking owls and antechinus. I love to try the true tropicals in my sub-tropical garden and it will be interesting to see how the cashew and cacao end up. <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Hylocereus megalanthus About To Bloom? Date: Sun, 14 May 2006 20:55:49 -0700 From: William Chow Hi Leo, The plant you gave me a while back has 30 reddish fuzz balls. Now there is a reddish flower that appears at the end of the fuzz ball. It looks like if the flower will set fruit, the fuzz ball will swell up into a fruit. Do you think this plant will bear a fruit after Flowering? [Selenicereus megalanthus (pitaya plant) has very large flowers, but I'm not sure about the fruit quality. -Leo] I planted a Valencia Pride mango and a Fuyu persimmon in the ground. The plants are slowly going in the ground. The dirt here is hardened sand. When it gets dry, it is almost like a weak concrete. Happy Mother's Day! Regards, William, in Del Mar, California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fruit Plants Direct from Thailand Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 03:41:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Bruce Livingstone Hello everyone, Many of you might remember my web site, "Santol's Tropical Fruit Home Page." Many of you also know I am now retired and live in Thailand. Having lived in Thailand now for two years (I can't believe it's already been that long) I now have access to a great many of the best of the Thai cultivars. I am perfectly willing to acquire any fruit plants and/or seeds you wish to have and ship them to you. If you are interested, please feel free to contact me at my new E-mail address: mailto:santol321@yahoo.com. For those of you I knew personally, I miss you. Best regards, Bruce Livingston ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Grow Muscat Grapes From Cuttings & Their Survival Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 16:08:31 -0400 From: Lisa Pettineo Hi Leo, My dad is going to try to grow some Muscat grapes from stem cuttings I gave him. The cuttings are making leaves and roots after he placed them in some water for a few weeks. The grapes are soooo delicious, and only available once a year from Chile, I want to make sure that after he plants them, they do not die. What kind of sun (full, partial, etc) and watering schedule to you recommend? I have killed many a plant with overzealous watering habits. Also, can he get them going in Miracle Grow soil? Also, do they need an overhead trellis or a trellis against the wall? We are in Ft Lauderdale, Florida/ Zone 10 growing area Thanks in advance for your information, I read your newsletter all the time. Best regards, Lisa Pettineo mailto:lisap@aonea.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Banana Search Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 22:06:17 -0700 From: Amy Fernandez To: Brian Hello Brian I have bought different types of bananas from http://www.stokestropicals.com/Banana_Plants_C41.cfm And have been very happy with what theyÕve sent. Amy In So. Calif ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Wanted: Seeds of Passiflora vitifolia Date: Wed, 17 May 2006 12:50:57 +0300 From: Igor Lyannoy Hi Leo, I am particularly looking for Passiflora vitifolia. If you could help locate a source for a few seeds, I'd be very grateful. Best regards, Igor Lyannoy - Ukraine ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Passionfruit Date: Thu, 18 May 2006 10:46:27 +0300 From: Igor Lyannoy Hello Leo, I am looking for P.vitifolia X P.vitifoilia ONLY! I have checked the links below, but none of them seem to be a guaranteed source for those. Guess I need to try locating a nursery that sells rooted plants. Best regards, Igor Lyannoy -----Original Message----- From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2006 6:04 PM To: Igor Lyannoy Subject: Re: Passionfruit Hi Igor The trouble with seeds for P. vitafolia is they may be a hybrid. They are not self-fertile, but will bear only if cross-pollinated with another variety. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Utah Sweet Variety of Pomegranate Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 21:10:33 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: "Dr. Barry Simmons" Hi, Barry. The Utah Sweet is distributed by the LaVerne Nursery to retail nurseries. http://www.lavernenursery.com/Home/products_deciduous.html I don't know if you can order directly. Probably you would need to have your local nursery order the trees for you. I'm copying Richard Ashton on this as well as a rare fruit online newsletter. To subscribe to the newsletter go to rarefruit.com. Richard grows pomegranates in Texas in a climate that approaches the low end of viablility for this fruit and he can tell you a few things about varieties. I think a climate with some chill may be necessary to get optimal performance out of the Utah Sweet. I have grown it in coastal southern california and a friend has grown it 20 miles inland. We both have found the tree to be a very sluggish grower and not very fruitfull, though the fruit is good if you like the soft seeded sweeter varieties. Best of luck. David Silverstein ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Barry Simmons" To: Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 11:39 AM Subject: Utah sweet variety of pomegranate >I live in Athens, Ga. and have read your club's newsletter for some time >now. I would like to to plant the Utah Sweet variety here in north >Ga.(zone 7b) and would appreciate your help in pointing me to seller(s) of >this variety. Also, I am planning a home in Sedona, Arizona which is 4500 >feet in altitude but has hot summers and mild winters and wonder whether >the pomegranate will grow there? Thank you for your help. Barry Simmons, >847 South Milledge Avenue, Athens, Ga. 706 546 1716 bsdds@bellsouth.net > > I have had much luck growing the Fuyugaki persimmons and PawPaw trees > that were not recommended for zone 7, therefore the question as to > whether Utah Sweet pomegranates would survive here or in Sedona. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Tropical Fruit Book Available Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 03:07:36 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Hi Leo, thought your newsletter readers would be interested in finding out where they can order the excellent new book on tropical fruits: Exotic and Little Known Fruit Trees of Puerto Rico (Arboles Frutales Exoticos y Poco Conocidos en Puerto Rico) by Juan Rivero and Bryan Brunner. You can order it here: http://www.fruitlovers.com/ExoticFruitTrees.html The book is in Spanish and is 357 pages. Includes descriptions and photos of 127 species of exotic fruits. A lot of this information and photos cannot be found in other books! Photos often include not just the fruits, but also leaves, flower and seeds. Great to see some of these never before seen photos even if you do not know Spanish. Book size is 5 1/2 by 8 1/2 inches. Soft cover. Published April 2006 by the Universtiy of Puerto Rico. If you click the link above you can see the table of contents and some sample sections of the books and photos. Enjoy! Oscar Jaitt, Fruit Lover's Nursery ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Please Help Me Find Otaheite Gooseberry Fruit Trees Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 00:32:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Timnovida@aol.com Leo & Betty, Otaheite gooseberry - An elderly aunt wants to eat this childhood fruit before she passes. Can you help please. Laurie ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Cool Season Fruit? Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 22:56:32 -0700 From: Barbara Banks Does anyone know of fruit trees/plants that bear fruit in san diego county between Nov. and May? I garden in San Marcos, CA and would love to have fruit all year around like we did in Hawaii. Also, has anyone in this area tried the EZ Pick method of planting 3 to 4 trees of the same type in the same hole for successive ripening? I'm planning to do this with peaches, apricots and nectarines. Last, but not least, what are the sweetest varieties of strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries for this area? Thanks, Barbara ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Phil Hamilton's request for named Jaboticaba Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 17:14:56 -0400 From: Otto Tonti Dear Leo, I too would be interested in knowing where I might get named varieties of Jaboticaba. The one tree I have bears black fruit about an inch in diameter. I also want to encourage Phil Hamilton of Leander, Texas, to be patient with his tree. Believe me, this tree is worth the wait. Mine took eight years to fruit. The first year it fruited it produced about a pint of fruit. Last year it was tilted a bit due to hurricane Charlie. I never did get around to straightening it out, but it flowered at the end of February this year (2006) and produced about three quarts of fruit. This fruit is so good that even before it is fully ripe, it is sweet and very tasty. Unlike some tropical fruits which need time for one to acquire a taste, this fruit is perceived as delicious by everyone who tries it for the first time. Otto Tonti, Fort Myers, Florida ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Champagne Mango Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 14:16:46 -0700 From: "Hallin, Max" Hey Leo, Not sure if you remember me but I actually came to your house last spring in search of rare Pitahayas and I have to say they are growing very nicely. So thanks again for that. I am now searching for the perfect mango tree. I really like the fruit of the one mentioned below but if you have other recommendations I'd love to hear your advice. I have found tree availability an issue. Do you know of a good source? I've been to exotica up in Vista as well as Pacific Tree Farms -which incidentally is going out of business and everything is half price- but neither have much in the way of mango trees. -MH -----Original Message----- Subject: re: Champagne Mango From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:24 AM To: Hallin, Max Max, another name for Champagne mango is Ataulfo - or it is at least a variation of Ataulfo. Leo Manuel > ----- Original Message ----- > > Subject: Champagne Mango > From: Hallin, Max > Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 4:09 PM > > > Dear David, > > My wife and I were enjoying one of these awesome mangos the other > night and were curious if the trees grow here in San Diego? > > -MH ------------------------------------------------ Subject: San Diego Chapter Newsletter May 25, 2006 Usually Room 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park General Meeting: 7:00 Ð 7:20 pm Program: 7:20 pmÐ 8:20 pm Website: http://crfgsandiego.org Chair: David Silverstein mailto:chair@crfgsandiego.org Newsletter Editor: Richard Frost mailto:editor@crfgsandiego.org Membership! Only $13 per year! Send payment to: CRFG, San Diego Chapter c/o Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 AT THE APRIL MEETING É David Silverstein and Tom Del Hotal opened up the program with a question and answer session on Loquats (yum!). This quickly segued into TomÕs presentation on grafting. Tom began by showing live pieces of stock and scion wood and discussing the selection of wood size and graft location for a whip graft: This was followed by a 30-minute slide show detailing bark grafts and T-grafts: Interested readers can find an online tutorial at: muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06971.htm In The Garden Plant: ¥ Tropical and sub-tropical plants ¥ Bulbs such as Tuberose, Gladiolus, Watsonia, Zantedeschia, Canna, and Lilies ¥ Seeds for summer and fall vegetables Prune/Thin: ¥ Clip ends off of vines longer than five feet on squash-like plants such as cucumbers, melons, zucchini, etc. to promote new vines and maximize yields ¥ Remove (clip) fruits from pencil-thin limbs of pome and pit fruit trees ¥ Prune winter and spring blooming ornamentals that have spent their blossoms Water: ¥ In most areas, lawn-watering is now 3 minutes in the morning and 3 minutes at night, daily. Plant: ¥ Succulents and Palms Prune/Thin/Divide: ¥ Clip runners on strawberries ¥ Dead-head roses, esp. on climbers. Trim back to nearest ÒfiveÓ leaf. ¥ Divide Cymbidium Pest Management Update The state of California is currently funding an outreach program aimed at educating the public about the large quantities of pesticides being transported into our waterways and coastal environments. San Diego is a major contributor to this problem, with consumers in San Diego County alone spending over 70 million dollars per year on pesticides. More information about the outreach program can be found at www.projectcleanwater.org or your local nursery. The University of California Cooperative Extension office in San Diego (cesandiego.ucdavis.edu) has much to offer the local gardener, including up-to-date seminars on local pests. Tom Del Hotal reports from the May 9th IPM (integrated pest management) seminar that two invasive critters are making headways in our gardens: (1) the citrus root weevil, Diaprepes; and (2) the bacteria Xylella, carried by the stingless glassy-winged sharpshooter wasp. Free publications about both of these pests can be found at anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu. Note that the glassy-winged sharpshooter is commonly found in plantings of impatiens. Our battles with the citrus leaf-miner are not over. Now that the local daytime temperatures are heating up, they will become very active. The CDFA is releasing counter-organisms in known areas of infestation: this probably does not include your neighborhood. Your local nursery stocks Spinosaid Ð a fluid containing bacteria that destroys leaf-miner eggs. Note that the product label restricts you to 5 applications per season and no more than once per week. As an alternative, you might try Spinosaid once per month and Malathion (staggered by 2 weeks) once per month also during the leaf-generation season. Malathion is relatively safe on citrus, although some mandarins exhibit chlorosis-like stress from monthly applications. This is easily treated with Ironite, Kelp Extract, or any other soil conditioner that targets chlorosis. SOILS, FERTILIZERS, AND ALL THAT Good fertilization practice involves an effective balance between (1) a particular plantÕs needs, (2) the present state of the soil, and (3) the demands you wish to make of the plant. For example, a rose bush has certain basic needs, but your fertilization program might go way beyond that if you demand a huge crop of blossoms from the plant. Soil Chemistry. O.K., so what about the basic needs of plants? Biologists have identified 18 minerals that are deemed essential to plant life. Among these, Carbon (C), Hydrogen (H), and Oxygen (O) are supplied by air and water. The remaining minerals must be in the soil for the plant to interact with or consume. If too much of a mineral is present, the plant can suffer. In addition to the 15 minerals listed below, Silicon (Si) and Cobalt (Co) are also beneficial but not essential to most plant species. Primary minerals: these are what you see listed (by law) on packaging of fertilizers and soil conditioners, the ÒN-P-KÓ (available % nitrogen, % phosphorous, % potassium). For example, a fertilizer rated 5-3-1 contains 5% nitrogen, 3% phosphorous, and 1% potassium that can be processed by plants, plus 91% Òother stuffÓ (91% = 100% Ð (5% + 3% + 1%)). Nitrogen. (N) The most used nutrient. Stimulates growth. Nitrogen is made available by soil bacteria. A healthy, mature semi-dwarf subtropical fruit tree that bears a full crop of fruit will remove about 1 pound of nitrogen from the soil each year. Phosphorous. (P) Needed for seed, root, flower and fruit growth. Mature semi-dwarf fruit trees consume about 1/10th of a pound of phosphorous per year. Potassium. (K) Improves overall plant vigor and disease resistance. Encourages root growth and fruit quality. Regulates absorption of Calcium, Sodium and Nitrogen. Helps roots withstand compacted soils. A mature semi-dwarf subtropical fruit tree bearing a full crop will consume about 3/4 pound per year. Suppose you wish to supply a fruit tree with 1 pound of nitrogen. If your fertilizer is rated 8-6-8, then 8% or about 1/12th of each pound is nitrogen that can be processed by a plant. Consequently, you will need to feed the tree 12 pounds of that fertilizer over the year. Secondary minerals. Not always listed or present in fertilizer, but still essential for plants. Calcium. (Ca) Needed for Nitrogen uptake, cellular structure and division. Promotes root growth and strong branch structure. Magnesium. (Mg) Essential for consumption of phosphorous and chlorophyll production. Plants in the families Rosaceae (incl. pome and prunus fruits) and Rutaceae (incl. citrus) are heavy users of Mg. Sulphur. (S) Encourages plant growth and seed formation. Will increase soil acidity when present in significant amounts. Micronutrients. Needed in far less quantities than primary minerals, but necessary to maintain normal growth. Molybdenum. (Mo) Needed for protein generation. Plants in the family Leguminosae (legumes, incl. Peas, Beans, Alfalfa, and Ice Cream Bean tree) consume additional amounts for nitrogen fixation. Nickel. (Ni) Required for Nitrogen and Iron absorption, seed germination. Copper. (Cu) Essential for enzyme systems and reproductive growth. Zinc. (Zn) Regulates plant growth. Manganese. (Mn) Essential for chlorophyll production. Also activates Nitrogen uptake and promotes plant maturity. Iron. (Fe) A catalyst for the production of chlorophyll. Also essential for new growth. Boron. (B) Necessary for seed, root, and fruit development. Must be available throughout the life of the plant. Chlorine. (Cl) Enables movement of fluids in the plant. Sodium. (Na) Also enables movement of water within the plant and regulation of ion chemistry. Further, when clay is present in the soil it is beneficial to add weak carbonic acids Ð sometimes called humic acids. This will permit the many naturally occurring minerals bound in clay compounds to be liberated and flow to the plant. Note that nutrient flow is not about water flow: it is about soil chemistry. A soil conditioner is a fertilizer that puts all of the essential minerals, needed bacteria and humic acids in the soil. For example, expeller-pressed kelp extract (a liquid, not raw kelp) has an N-P-K of 0.1, 0.1, 1.5. It contains all essential minerals, B- vitamins, and of course weak carbonic acids. Kelp Extract is available from GrowMore, www.growmore.com. Both of the brand names ÒDr. EarthÓ (www.drearth.com) and ÒGro-PowerÓ (www.growpower.com) offer a granular product with an N-P-K of 3-3-3, all necessary minerals, humic acids, etc. Note again that by Òsoil conditionersÓ, we are not talking about gypsum and water percolation, but weak carbonic acids and soil chemistry. Acid or Alkaline Soil? The next piece of the picture is soil pH. This is a scale from 0 to 14 of how acidic (numbers less than 7) or how alkaline (numbers greater than 7) the soil is. As an example: weak ammonia and lye soap have pH in the range of 10-11, whereas orange juice (containing citric acid) has a pH near 4. The soil pH can be easily measured with an inexpensive probe available at many hardware and garden stores. Most of us have heard that certain plants are picky about the soil pH. For example: the Canyon maple (Acer grandidentatum) likes a pH of 8-9, grasses prefer 7 (neutral), roses and blackberries like 6.2, southern blueberries are optimal near 5.2, and northeastern cranberries desire 4.2! As the chart below shows, all this variance really has to do with the proportion of minerals the plant desires for sustenance. The most commonly used products to adjust soil pH are Dolomite Lime (to increase pH #) and Granulated Sulphur (to decrease pH #). My own experience has taught me that either one must be used with caution: it can and most likely will take a full year for the granules to take full effect. That is, if after 6 months the pH is not where you want it: wait! Adding more before the end of 12 months might (and often will) take you way past your target pH #. There are alternatives to purified lime and sulphur. To lower the pH of neutral soils to 6.2 for blackberries, boysenberries, youngberries, etc.: consider using a twice- or thrice-yearly commercial rose food that contains a small amount of sulphur; e.g., Ada PerryÕs Magic Formula, Vigoro Rose Food, or Ortho Rose Food. For blueberries, maintaining a 3-inch thick layer of peat moss and regular applications of a rose or azalea food should keep the soil pH in the desired range. To raise the pH of neutral soil to 8: try applying 1/2 gallon of wood ash (2 lbs.) per 100 square feet, once per year. Availability of soil minerals according to soil pH. Wider bars = more availability; e.g., almost 100% of molybdenum in the soil is available to plant roots at soil pH of 5.5 and higher. Methods of nutrient application. In a commercial setting, nutrients, soil conditioners, and fertilizers are applied in gas, liquid, or solid form. Suitable gases (e.g., nitrogen) can be dissolved directly into the water supply. Some liquids can be applied as a foliar spray, while others are dispersed through a ÒfertigationÓ tank Ð a container that mixes liquid into the water supply at a desired rate. Such systems are also available in 1Ð3 gallon sizes for home use; e.g., EZ-Flo tanks, www.ezfloinjection.com. Solids and of course all liquids can be applied directly to the soil or mulch where the water will contact them. A solid might be the product of a chemical factory or simply a raw organic or inorganic material such as cow manure or ground aluminum ore tailings. Solids that do not contain a soil penetrate must be cultivated into the mulch or soil. Research at UC Davis has repeatedly shown that bulk fertilizer application to fruit trees in Aug.-Sept. is far more effective than in the traditional periods of Dec.-Jan. Natural Sources of Nutrients. Some gardeners prefer raw, natural materials to supply nitrogen and other essential plant minerals. Listed below are the N-P-K of some common composted manures, guanos, plant materials and an (uncomposted) salt. The right column of the table shows the annual application rate to supply 1 pound of nitrogen to a full-size bush or semi-dwarf tree of 3 to 7 years of age: Manure, Guano, etc. N - P - K (composted) cu. ft. / yr. / tree Cow 0.2 - 0.1 - 0.2 10.5 Steer 0.7 - 0.3 - 0.4 3.5 Horse 0.7 - 0.3 - 0.6 3.5 Sheep 0.7 - 0.3 - 0.9 3.5 Sea Bird 1 - 10 - 1 0.2 Chicken 1.1 - 0.8 - 0.5 0.8 Shredded Alfalfa 2 - 0 - 3 1.5 Rabbit 2.4 - 1.4 - 0.6 1.75 Desert Bat 8 - 4 - 1 5.8 High-Nitrogen Sea Bird 13 Ð 12 - 2 0.3 Natural (NH4)2SO4 20 - 0 Ð 0 (a salt) 0.25 The (NH4)2SO4 (ammonium sulfate) is the least- costly in the short-term. It could however be very costly in the long-run if the plant does not tolerate the residue sulfides well. Both Desert Bat guano and composted Rabbit Manure have great high-nitrogen profiles, and the rabbit manure appears to be the more cost-effective of the two. For fruit trees, our goals are obviously on fruit production. In the case of semi-dwarf pit fruits, pome fruits, berries of the genus Rubus, and roses in general Ð these plants will permanently remove the following amounts of nutrients from the soil each year they bear a full crop of fruit: SEMI-DWARF EUROPEAN FRUIT TREES Mineral lbs. / plant / year consumed nitrogen (N) 0.7 Phosphorus (P) 0.1 potassium (K) 0.9 calcium 0.1 magnesium 0.04 When these minerals are not present, the plant cannot bear fruit. Examining the previous table of raw natural materials, it appears that only sheep manure plus calcium and magnesium supplements would have the required minerals in more-or-less the desired proportions. Now 3.5 cu. ft. of sheep manure is approximately two 40 lb. bags at $3 each. A soil conditioner should also be applied at least once per year to insure all eighteen essential nutrients are present. Professional Grade Fertilizers. A less bulky albeit more costly approach is to use professional grade fertilizers tailored to the needs of the plant. So instead of 80 lbs. of manure for $6 per tree per year, about 12 lbs. of a granular for about $12 per tree per year will achieve the same and often better results. Liquid fertilizers offer an even greater economy of size and distribution Ð particularly when a fertigator is used. For fruits of the Prunus and Rosaceae families, six cups of a 6-12-12 granular fertilizer every three months should be sufficient for mature semi-dwarf trees. One way to achieve this is with a half-and-half mixture of GroPower-Plus and GroPower ÒFlower and BloomÓ. A liquid fertilizer can work equally well. One example is Dyna-Gro ÒAll ProÓ (www.dynagrow. com), mixed at a 1:100 ratio once per month. Another possibility is Grow More 20-20-20 water- soluble fertilizer (www.growmore.com). Using an application rate of 5 lbs. per tree per year to obtain 1 lb. of nitrogen per year, the cost is equivalent to most high-grade granulars but can be easier to apply. Citrus, avocados, and other subtropical fruits have different requirements than the more common fruits of the northern latitudes. In particular, the nitrogen requirements are higher, the phosphorus requirements lower, the iron, manganese, and zinc requirements higher, and often little or no stimulation is needed to flower and bloom. A quarterly application of a granular citrus-avocado food (NPK near 8-6-8) will meet the fruiting needs of almost all subtropicals. Alternately, a liquid tropical plant formula such as Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro (NPK 9-3-6) or water-soluble Grow More 30-10-10 will also suffice. Watering. Nearly all plants profit from deep, infrequent watering Ð only once or twice per week. Some exceptions are plants with very short roots such as grasses (3 min. twice per day, morning and night in 80¡ weather), and botanicals from high-humidity climates. Full size peach trees and other European fruits grown commercially in CaliforniaÕs central valley are provided about 300 gallons per week per tree, but in well-draining soil. Citrus and other subtropical fruits are given twice that amount. For backyard orchard culture in closely spaced plantings and mixtures involving clay soils, 1/3 of those amounts are recommended. Soil Mechanics. The physical composition of a soil and how materials flow through it is called soil mechanics. Putting aquatic plants aside, there are few plant varieties that will tolerate having their roots sit in water-logged soil. Thus, soil mechanics is mostly about drainage. Ask your local nursery expert how to plant a bush or fruit tree from a 5-10 gallon pot into the ground, and they will likely tell you: dig a large hole and if it is not on a slope or otherwise doesnÕt drain well, then dig a Òfrench drainÓ so that excess water will drain off somewhere else. When considering how much excess water there might be, remember the heavy rains of 2005. Now what to put in that hole? First, take the material excavated from the hole and remove all the rocks larger than a golf ball. Ideally, you should have enough material left to fill half the volume of the hole. If you have more material than that, then put aside the excess. If you have less Ð which is often the case, then compensate by adding washed or rinsed coarse sand. Bulk coarse sand often needs rinsing because it contains salt. ÒFinish and Joint SandÓ for setting walkway pavers is sometimes salt-free. Use an inexpensive salt test kit if unsure. O.K., now the other half volume of the hole is plant- dependent. For most outdoor full-sun palms and other plants that donÕt tolerate moist soil for extended periods of time (e.g., many California natives), use a palm & citrus planting mix such as the one offered by Whitney Farms (www.whitneyfarms.com), or the one offered by your local bulk soil supplier. For plants that do want moisture retention, choose a planting mix that contains peat Ð such as Dr. Earth Planting Mix or Sunshine All-Purpose Planting Mix (www.sungro.com). Whatever your needs, be sure to mix it well before placing it back in the hole. How big should the hole be? In clay soil, the larger the hole the faster a young tree will develop. Ideally, this means about a cubic yard (27 cubic feet, or 202 gallons). Commercially this is done with a tractor. In a suburban yard, the same approach can be taken with a compact Bobcat, Caterpillar, or John Deere excavator. The approach for pot & tub culture is similar. If you are only going to re-pot for a year or so before placing the plant in your garden, then you should follow exactly the recipe above, using soil from the target location in your garden. For permanent pot culture, a good recipe is: 1/3 rinsed coarse sand (see discussion above), 1/3 rinsed pumice Ð about 3/8Ó size, and 1/3 plant-dependent planting mix. For plants that like to drain completely, rinsed Coir is an excellent choice for the final third. For most plants though, a blend of a peat-based planting mix and a small amount of earthworm castings is a better choice for the final third of the mix. A final thing to consider for container culture: pot size and shape. Shrubs and trees that primarily feed by surface roots will do well in a shallower depth (1824Ó), but wider tubs. Those that attempt to put down deep root systems, including pit fruits and coffee do better in standard 100-200 gallon tubs. Mulch. Mulch is essential for plants that desire water retention in the soil; i.e., moist (not soggy) soil. Also, certain plants Ð avocados and evergreen oaks for example, have feeder roots right on the surface that are subject to rot when bacteria that normally lives in mulch is not present. In particular, both of these trees can be killed by continually raking away their leaf mulch. There is a happy flip side to this though: Evergreen oaks drop a portion of their older leaves each winter. Typically, this is done in excess for the needs of the tree. The enterprising gardener can find loads of dried oak leaf along roadsides, in drainage ditches, etc. in the spring. These leaves are not only good for oaks and avocados: they are a favorite food of all acid-loving plants. Many other options are available for mulch and there is a plethora of information available on generating your own. Both KelloggÕs (www.kellogggarden.com) and Whitney Farms have a long history of producing good mulch products, and the city of San Diego has all you want for free at the Miramar landfill site (www.sandiego.gov/environmental-services/). A word of caution: if you are working with a plant that likes high pH #Õs (alkaline, not acidic soil), then be aware that most commercial mulch products are acidic. You need to find one that will maintain your alkaline chemistry. Mulch should be laid out 2-3Ó thick and extend to the edge of the plant leaf canopy or 3 feet from the trunk, whichever is greater. Take care to keep mulch 6Ó or so away from the trunk of the plant as organisms in the mulch can damage the bark. Plastic edging or fine wire mesh works great for this. CALENDAR OF MEETINGS AND EVENTS OF CHAPTER INTEREST 2006 Ð The Year of the Healthful Grape Month Event or Meeting June 17 9am Ð Fruit Tree Care, Summer Pruning, & Fruit Tasting (10amÐ2pm). Walter Andersen Nursery, 3642 Enterprise Street San Diego. 619-2248271. Free Event. June 10 to July 4 Del Mar Fair,; www.sdfair.com June 22 Lychee And Longan --Growing Them And Fruiting Them In San Diego. 7pm. July 27 Grapes Ð The Ins And Outs Of Grape Growing. Special Attention To Choosing Varieties For Quality And Extended Production. 7pm. August 24 Exotic Fruit Ice Creams. We Will Be Tasting Wonderful Fruit Ice Creams From South Of The Border (The Mexico/U.S. Border). 7pm. September 2 Plant Sale! 9:30 to 4:30, place TBD. September 5Ð9 Festival Of Fruit, San Luis Obispo. www.crfg.org September 28 Room 102 Mangoes, Discussion Of Varieties Culture And Lore; followed By Mangos And Ice Cream. 7pm. October 26 Pomegranates. Discussion Of Varieties, Culture And Lore Of This Fruit, Followed By Tasting Of Some Unusual Varieties. 7pm. November 17 Friday Ð Rm 104 Winter Pruning Of Deciduous Fruit Trees. 7pm. December 15 Friday Holiday Party And Gift Exchange. 7pm. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Potassium Chlorate and Longans Date: Wed, 24 May 2006 21:30:51 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda To: "Laurie (Hawai) Lee" This is how we in Thailand apply potassium chlorate on the E-Daw cultivar. Please bear in mind that each cultivar reacts differently and that different location and climate also affect the effectiveness. We apply the chemical at any time of the day. But we avoid applying the chemical when it rains hard, a little rain should not matter a lot. Application: 1. Dissolve the chemical in water. For small trees, use about 300 grams per tree. 2. Pour the solution evenly on the ground around the base of the canopy. 3. Pour a little water to make sure that the ground is damp, not dry. 4. For the next three days, water the ground beneath the canopy. Apply just enough water to get the ground damp. 5. If the ground is damp, stop watering for the next 7 days. 6. After that, water liberally, but not so much that the ground becomes flooded. For small trees, we obtain flower within 10-15 days. If you cannot obtain potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate will work just as well, using exactly the same amount. No, it does not work on lychee. I am sure that potassium chlorate and sodium chlorate will work in Hawaii, but you will have to conduct a few trials and errors before you obtain a satisfactory result. The various important factors are not the same in Hawaii as in Thailand. However, the chemical does not work well in cold climate. The Chinese have not been able to obtain a satisfactory result using the chemical. Have Fun! Sainarong ----- Original Message ----- From: Timnovida@aol.com Subject: Potassium Chlorate To: sainaron@loxinfo.co.th Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 3:13 PM Aloha, I need some information for making my longan bear fruit. Where do I purchase potassium chlorate and how much do I put on my tree? It is 10' tall and only had fruit 7 years ago. Will the same chemical work on my lychee tree? Thanks. Laurie Lee <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200606A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - June 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200606B.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Suddenly there are lots of bloom buds on my pitayas, and one actually bloomed, on June 13. It was Paul Thomson's hybrid, 8-S. Other buds will not open for a few weeks, such as Paul Thomson's G-1, G-2, G-3, #7, 6-S, Selenicereus grandiflorus, a red-flowered 'Connie Mayer' and a plant that grew from a cutting from eBay. It was supposed to be self-fertile and with red flesh. Some of the mangoes that performed very well last year have not had any hint of blooming. Possible they are alternate- bearing? 'Sensation' mango may set fruit this year for the first time. Are you familiar with it? Please write about your fruiting hits or misses. My apricot crop was very small. It may have been raining during the bloom period. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber-Tustin, CA-Interested In Cherimoyas James Wroble New Subscriber, Florida, Seeks Durian Seeds, Pinwing Fruit Info. Bal <><><> Readers Write <><><> What Nibbles Young Avocado Leaves And Fruit? N Sterman Pitaya Flowers-Yours And Mine Allen Sylvester re: Passiflora vitifolia seeds christopher.marshall@att.net To: igor.lyannoy@cetab.dp.ua Champagne = Ataulfo Maurice Kong How To Roast Macadamia Nuts Cheryl Noble CRFG San Diego City Chapter Newsletter - June Leo Manuel CRFG N. County June Newsletter Leo Manuel <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Fw: Pitaya disease in Malaysia Sainarong Siripen Rasananda <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Cocoa Plants Find a Friend in Fungi ARS News Service Biobased Nursery Pots ARS News Service <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber-Tustin, CA-Interested In Cherimoyas Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 13:10:15 -0700 From: James Wroble My name is James Wroble I live in Southern California. Tustin, CA in South Orange County to be exact. My personal e-mail address is jhwroble@yahoo.com My work e-mail is james@qualitycertified.org Either e-mail address is fine. I currently have a grape vine, small pineapple plant and there is a lemon tree out back. I grow tomatoes every year too. We use to have a dwarf banana plant, but it did not make it. Not enough sun and no fertilizer probably didnÕt help. Had a lime tree a long time ago, but it is long gone. IÕm really interested in this Cherimoya tree. It sounds too good to be true. Grows well in my area, it is hearty, only grows 20-30 feet and smells good too. I would like any ideas or information on this tree. Anything good or negative is welcome. James Wroble ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Florida, Seeks Durian Seeds, Pinwing Fruit Info. Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 16:45:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Bal I am looking for seeds of the Durian fruit which I would like to introduce to Trinidad. My name is Balgrim Ragoonanan, and I live in Florida. My phone is 954 979 0127. Presently I have guava, mangoes, avacado, and carambulay. My email address is BRagoonanan@Aol.Com Do you know the Pinwing fruit and do you have a picture of it? If so I would like to see what it looks like. Thanks, Bal Ragoonanan <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: What Nibbles Young Avocado Leaves And Fruit? Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 08:35:56 -0700 From: N Sterman Leo - that sounds incredibly frustrating - a gentle suggestion - maybe it is time to switch from Netscape...? What eats the young leaves and forming fruit of avocado? There were fruit clusters a week ago and today, they are vanished. nibbled to a nub. And the new soft leaves are now just the lower halves, the upper halves have been eaten off. Nan > Have you sent to me anything that I didn't acknowledge? > My Netscape (or the computer I use) sometimes loses > email. Today 179 (!) messages vanished and I doubt > that I can retrieve them.... ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pitaya Flowers-Yours And Mine Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 20:58:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Allen Sylvester Hello Leo, That cool weather Southern California has been having must be slowing your plants down. We had a very warm April and a weird winter, variously record cold and heat. I had the first flower buds appear before April 7 and bloom on May 1 on Rixford. G-2 had buds by April 9 and the first flower on May 2. On May 5 there were visible buds on QPP, Rixford, G-2, 3-S, 7-S and 9-S. I have selfed and crossed among them as they bloomed, in various combinations and all the buds that actually flowered have set fruits, so far. About 9 so far. Selenicereus grandiflora showed buds on May 7 and the first flower opened tonight. I reciprocally crossed it with Rixford, which is the only other flower open. The plants are growing like crazy. I think I may have given them too much nitrogen, but the little weeds in a few of the pots were usually yellowish, which I was using as an indicator for adjusting fertilizers. Allen Baton Rouge, LA Thanks for the work you do on RFNO. I had a repeat hernia operation on the 18th, so I am also in recovery. Things are going fine. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: re: Passiflora vitifolia seeds Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 14:27:00 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net To: igor.lyannoy@cetab.dp.ua Dear Igor, Consider joining Passiflora Society International. They have a seed bank, which offers seeds of quite a few species of Passifloras, edible and ornamental. The international seed bank is in the Netherlands and run by Cor Laurens. Here's their address: Passiflora Society International c/o Butterfly World 3600 Sample Road Coconut Creek, FL USA 33073 Or they can be emailed at info@passiflora.org. Hope the information is useful to you. And I would echo Leo's comment, P. vitifolia requires cross pollination to set fruit. Not self-compatible. Chri Marshall Tucson, Arizona, USA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Champagne = Ataulfo Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 13:34:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Maurice Kong Hi Leo: I share your opinion that the Champagne may be a variation of the Ataulfo. I bought a few Champagne mangoes a few days ago in San Francisco with the belief it was the same and was disappointed to find it was just like any good tasting mango. Having evaluated many mangoes in my time and I can close my eyes and can identify Autolfo's unique flavor. Polyembrionic mangoes usually have to shoots,the dominant one which most people would plant is similar but not always exactly as the parent. Perhaps this is the story of the Champagne. Maurice -----Original Message----- Subject: re: Champagne Mango From: Leo Manuel [mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:24 AM To: Hallin, Max > Max, another name for Champagne mango is Ataulfo - or it is at > least a variation of Ataulfo. > > Leo Manuel ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Roast Macadamia Nuts Date: Sun, 11 Jun 2006 16:33:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Cheryl Noble I have a nice new crop of macadamias and a good piston-type nutcracker. They are good raw but I'd like to roast some. Anybody know how hot and how long to bake them? Cheryl [If they are freshly harvested, I would put them in an oven at its lowest setting and leave overnight - or until the nuts will rattle around in the shell when shaken. Crack one or two to see if they are dry enough. It may take several days. You may prefer to air-dry them for several days first, or put them in a dehydrator. I find that the taste of freshly harvested macadamia nuts us similar to coconut, and quite different after it's toasted and crunchy. Anyone have a more scientific method to suggest? -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG San Diego City Chapter Newsletter - June Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 08:14:02 -0700 From: Leo Manuel June 25, Room 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park General Meeting: 7:00 Ð 7:20 pm Program: 7:20 pmÐ 8:20 pm Lychee And Longan Fruit Tasting/Break: 8:20 Ð 8:50 pm Opportunity Drawing: 8:50 pm Website: http://crfgsandiego.org Newsletter Editor: Richard Frost editor@crfgsandiego.org Tom Del Hotal filled the last hour with a very interesting discussion on Blueberries, which could have easily been titled ÒBlueberries 101Ó. Tom emphasized that container and raised bed culture are the easiest way to be successful with Blueberries, using 25% cactus mix and 75% peat moss for a soil mixture. The presentation ended with a discussion of cultivars, of which the ÒSouthern High BushÓ varieties seemed the hands-down favorites. 2006 Ð The Year of the Healthful Grape June 10 to July 4 San Diego County Fair, http://www.sdfair.com/fair June 17 9am Ð Fruit Tree Care, Summer Pruning, & Fruit Tasting (10amÐ2pm). Walter Andersen Nursery, 3642 Enterprise Street San Diego. 619-224- 8271. Free Event. June 22 Lychee And Longan -- Growing Them And Fruiting Them In San Diego. 7pm. June 24 Fruit Tasting. KniffingÕs Discount Nursery. 14940 Oak Creek Road, El Cajon. 619- 561-0611. Free Event. July 27 Grapes Ð The Ins And Outs Of Grape Growing. Special Attention To Choosing Varieties For Quality And Extended Production. 7pm. August 24 Exotic Fruit Ice Creams. We Will Be Tasting Wonderful Fruit Ice Creams From South Of The Border (The Mexico/U.S. Border). 7pm. September 2 Plant Sale! 9:30 to 4:30, place TBD. September 5Ð9 Festival Of Fruit, San Luis Obispo. http://www.crfg.org September 28 Room 102 Mangoes, Discussion Of Varieties Culture And Lore; followed By Mangos And Ice Cream. 7pm. October 26 The Avocado Ð A Presentation On Varieties And Effective Growing Techniques. 7pm. November 17 Friday Ð Rm 104 Winter Pruning Of Deciduous Fruit Trees. 7pm. December 15 Friday Holiday Party And Gift Exchange. 7pm. Membership! Only $13 per year! Join Now! Send payment to: CRFG, San Diego Chapter c/o Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG N. County June Newsletter Date: Sat, 10 Jun 2006 07:52:53 -0700 From: Leo Manuel The Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers The San Diego County Fair will be held from June 10 thru July 4. June Meeting- We will meet June 16 at 7 PM in Room T402, bldg T400. Vincent Lazaneo will speak on 'Citrus Pests' including DIAPREPES root weevil (a pest new to San Diego County). July Meeting-This will be July 29 at Quail Gardens and is our annual Potluck, and plant sale held jointly with the San Diego Chapter. Scott Murray of the San Pasqual Academy will give a talk on their program. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $8.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30 /yr and is required. Chapter dues run from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. CRFG dues run 1 year from the date you joined. Please mail your $30 CRFG dues to the address in the Fruit Gardener. Make checks payable to CRFG. Send chapter dues to Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92008 Earlier this year your editor attended an ÒIntegrated Pest Management Community WorkshopÓ presented by University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources Cooperative Extension. I intend, as space and time permit to pass along things I learned there. There recommended method for controlling a Citrus Leaf Miner infection was to prune the infected leaves being very careful to disinfect your pruning shears after each cut. The recommended disinfecting solution was 10% Clorox bleach. I implemented this by cutting a 3Ó square hole in the side of a 1/2 gallon plastic jug with a handle I could pass my belt through. This made it very easy to dip my pruning shears after each cut. I did this on 4 young citrus trees and am happy to report it has been very effective. Citrus leaf miner infection is easy to recognize. The pest is so small that it actually eats its way through a leaf without breaking the surface on either side. This leaves a telltale sign which is a thin brown streak inside the leaf caused by excrement. Harry Nickerson CRFG San Diego North County Chapter 1815 Yettford Rd. Vista CA 92083 CRFG's website: http://www.crfg.org NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net June 16 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Vince Lanzaneo-Citrus pests July 29 11:30 AM Quail Gardens-Encinitas Annual potluck & plant sale Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside. Check calendar for current meeting details. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> Subject: Fw: Pitaya disease in Malaysia Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 18:34:12 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: Pitaya disease in Malaysia From: drmanmd Date: Thursday, June 01, 2006 5:57 PM To: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Dear Mr Sainarong and Mr Wong...thanks for your input and I think that could be one of my problems...last few months heavy rain...almost daily...easily 80-100 mm daily...and YES my land has no proper water drainage ...that would be the first for me to correct...and pray that the weather will change into my favour very soon.. Meanwhile I would go on into extensive pruning...and i would have to use fungicide.. Thanks again Drman <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Cocoa Plants Find a Friend in Fungi Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2006 08:29:26 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ It's a sweet deal. Cacao trees--Nature's chocolate source--offer certain fungi a place to live and hang out. In return, the tiny tenants stand guard, ready to protect their plant-based homes from microbial attack. That's the finding of scientists with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and their colleagues, who are looking for ways to protect Theobroma cacao, known as cacao, from destructive pathogens that can ruin the plant's cherished crop of cocoa beans. In Latin America, where about one-third of the world's chocolate originates, the two most persistent cocoa spoilers are witches' broom and frosty pod rot. Right now, chemical fungicides are farmers' best defense against the diseases. But experts at the ARS Systematic Botany and Mycology Laboratory in Beltsville, Md., and their collaborators have an all-natural alternative in mind. They've found that certain fungal endophytes, which take up residence in plants, make ideal roommates capable of keeping disease-causing microbes at bay. Endophytes are fungi or bacteria that live within the nooks and crannies of living plants and trees but cause no apparent harm to their hosts. These live-in microorganisms set up shop pretty much wherever they want: in a tree's leaves, stems or trunk. Gary Samuels, a mycologist at the ARS Beltsville laboratory, is part of a team of experts who are traveling the globe in search of new and promising endophytes. He named and described one recent discovery: Trichoderma ovalisporum. Samuels' colleagues, including Harry Evans with CABI Bioscience in the United Kingdom, found the fungus growing inside a tropical woody vine in Ecuador. Laboratory and field studies show that this endophyte is effective at running off the frosty pod rot pathogen. If it continues to prove its worth, T. ovalisporum's spores could someday be applied to cacao tree flowers to help shield the plant--and its precious beans--from fungal attack. Read more about the research in the June 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jun06/matrix0606.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Biobased Nursery Pots Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006 08:19:07 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ Plant pots made from farm wastes could one day be a boon to the horticultural industry--and to the environment. The Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and the Horticultural Research Institute (HRI) of the American Nursery and Landscape Association are working together to create biodegradable pots for nursery production. ARS and HRI signed a three-year cooperative research agreement to develop and test biobased nursery containers. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. HRI is a nonprofit organization based in Washington, D.C. ARS research associate Justin Barone, in the Environmental Management and Byproduct Utilization Research Unit at the Henry A. Wallace Beltsville (Md.) Agricultural Research Center, is slated to formulate the biodegradable nursery containers. He will test the suitability of agricultural byproducts such as poultry feathers, egg protein and lipid, milk and cheese protein, blood protein, animal and plant lipids, polysaccharides and plant proteins for conversion into polymeric products that can be pressed into pot shapes. Barone will also design and build a mold of standard container dimensions to match nursery industry standards. ARS horticulturist Donna Fare, in the U.S. National Arboretum's Floral and Nursery Plants Research Unit at McMinnville, Tenn., will study the effects of the new, biobased containers on plants and determine their longevity under nursery production conditions. The pots will also be tested for use in composting, during which carbon dioxide production will be monitored. The ultraviolet and weather stability of pots during storage will also be determined. ARS has granted exclusive license rights to HRI for products developed from this research. HRI will solicit funds to support the research from nursery industry companies and, later, will pass on nonexclusive rights to interested companies. This should speed delivery of the technology to a wide range of commercial entities. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200606B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> -- =============================================================== Leo Manuel http://www.rarefruit.com mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com Home Of Free Email Newsletter: Rare Fruit News Online Pitaya Fruit:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PitayaFruit/ =============================================================== <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200606B.txt <><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - July 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200607A.txt __________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> I appreciate the help from readers who write with their garden experiences, or who are answering questions others have had in recent issues. Without that boost, the newsletter is lacking in purpose and should cease to exist. Michael Zarky writes about his problems getting fruit, and Doug writes about the effects of excessive heat on fruit and plants. -Thanks! Summer's sudden appearance has caused pitaya blooms to open in abundance. Most are from red-fleshed varieties, but there are a few developing on a H. undatus, "Orton Engelhart." My reliance on drip irrigation has caused the usual problems. There are too many diverse plants on the same water cycle, with different water needs. I need to supplement water for several trees, and when there's too little, the crops will be sparse. I lack as much energy as I once had, so I spend time contemplating what to do rather than doing is.... Do write about your experiences, pass along information of new varieties, web sites, and anything that may be of interest to the rest of us. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Coffs Harbour-NSW, Australia Stephanie Campbello New Subscriber-Capistrano Beach, CA - Will Abiu Grow? JIM WAGNER New Subscriber, Texas Looking For "Degelman" Tree "Degelman, Angela" <><><> Readers Write <><><> Rare Fruit News Online - Festival of Fruit News!!! Joe Sabol Fruiting (Not!) Michael Zarky Getting Started With Longans, Pomelo, and Mangoes Bruce Brennan Leo's Mistake - CRFG Membership Annual Dues Marvnpet@aol.com Where can I buy pitaya plants in Florida? Daoud Haily Enjoying Pitaya Fruit In China! Tanner James-W15930 Trying IMO On Papaya; Maradol Papaya Question Elizabeth A Young Arizona Rare Fruits Suffer In The Heat Doug Jones <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? "Tom Waters" waterslv@yahoo.com Re: PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? "Nestlebrae.Exotics" nestlebrae.exotics@xtra.co.nz Fruiting habits litchee versus longan "luc vleeracker" lucvleeracker@yahoo.com Re: fruiting habits litchee versus longan "Greg Woolley" gregwoolley@optusnet.com.au <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Thomcord Grape: Flavorful, Attractive--and Seedless! ARS News Service Pomegranate Fruit Bars ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Coffs Harbour-NSW, Australia Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 20:20:15 +1000 From: Stephanie Campbello Hi Leo & Betty, Please include me in your online newsletter. My name is Steve Campbell & I live in a sub tropical (frost free) area, near Coffs Harbour located on the north coast of New South Wales, Australia. I live on 14 acres & for the past 6 years have been busy establishing an orchard with over 50 fruit trees & there's always room for more. The majority of trees are various varieties of citrus, eg orange, mandarin, tangor, tangelo, lemon, lime, lemonade & grapefruit. Fruit trees are avocado, mango, custard apple, black sapote, guava, brazilian cherry & blueberry. Nut trees are coffee, macadamia & pecan. Some native Aussie fruit, cedar bay cherry, midyim, tamarind, riberry & lilly pilly. Fragrant leave trees such as lemon myrtle, cinnamon myrtle, aniseed myrtle & bay tree. I'd love to grow more avocado - but have lost many to phytophthora. It breaks my heart to see an established fruiting tree suddenly die to this disease. Pests are aphids & scale, controlled with white oil & lime sulphur & the dreaded fruit fly that spoils most summer crops. I avoid pesticides where possible & use some glyphosate (eg roundup) to control weeds around the trees. Other than phytophthora problems we get strong southerly winds which can carry salt spray & occasional savage storms & wet weather that can break branches, especially if laden with fruit & even blow over trees. We (should) get dry winters & wet summers. However the past 4 or 5 years have been drought affected & the trees have struggled, except for last summer when we enjoyed fairly good rain fall. However the drought is again spreading across Australia with many towns facing dwindling water supplies & having to consider recycling sewerage. I'm able to irrigate from a dam, but this dries up most summers & also have 10,000 gallons of tank water - if we get enough rain to fill them, before having to use town water. The base of the trees are heavily mulched to help conserve moisture. I'm expanding the orchard with room to grow a dozen or so plants & am currently looking at plants that might suit the climate & location. I'll plant a couple more varieties of mango & macadamia that I don't already have growing. Some trees I'm thinking about are star apple, abiu, cherimoya, jakfruit, logan, loquat, lychee, rollinia, pitaya & poshte. Not sure at this stage what ones are suitable for this area. Hoping that your site & readers will help in the decision making process. Regards, Steve mailto:i_donquixote@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Capistrano Beach, CA - Will Abiu Grow? Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2006 15:09:26 -0700 From: JIM WAGNER Hello! I live in Capistrano Beach, California 92624. I have been collecting Rare and not-so-rare Fruit trees for about 10 years, I have collected almost everything I can get my hands on, Many too young to fruit! My yard is pretty small, so I have some space constraints. I have also killed more fruit trees than most people have planted! I just ate my 1st Black Sapote this past weekend, mixed with some Whip Cream is was like chocolate moose, very nice! It only took 8 years! The stupid thing was that I had written down that the plant was a Chico Sapodilla, then is fruited and I realized mmmmmhhh what the heck:o) So now I am looking for a Chico Sapodilla! I also would like to grow an Abiu Tree, but I don't think it will survive! Does anybody know where I can buy one or if it will Fruit in S. Cal? Cheers, Jim Wagner mailto:jim@qualspec.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Texas Looking For "Degelman" Tree Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2006 11:10:55 -0500 From: "Degelman, Angela" I am Angela Degelman, from Bryan, Texas (originally from Columbus, Kansas) Fruit plants and trees I am now growing are 1 apple that has never born fruit, and some MAJOR attempts at blueberry bushes Ð none successful. Some you want to grow....definitely blueberry and blackberry (bushes) but am interested in learning more about the ÒDegelman TreeÓ and how I could get one (for obvious reasons). My husband Alan Degelman and I have almost completed building a home on 10 acres just outside of Bryan, Texas. We have lots of oak trees, but are interested in planting fruit trees, some native, and some not. IÕm not sure what will grow in this area, but we are particularly interested in rare fruit trees, especially now that we know there is one called ÒDegelmanÓ. Anybody have a picture of a Degelman tree? Angela Degelman mailto:adegelman@mays.tamu.ed College Station, Texas <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Rare Fruit News Online - Festival of Fruit News!!! Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 21:12:27 -0700 From: Joe Sabol Dear Leo Thanks for the great service you provide!!!! Please pass along the good news. The annual CRFG Festival of Fruit is being hosted by the Central Coast Chapter in September 2006. We have some fantastic tours all over San Luis Obispo County on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, September 5-7. Then, on Friday morning, September 8, we all come to Cal Poly for some tours and a blueberry talk by Dr. Mark Gaskell. At 1 p.m. we have the opening session in Chumash Auditorium on the campus and have several keynote speakers including Secretary of Food and Agriculture, A.G. Kawamura. Friday evening is a very special BBQ in the arboretum. Saturday is the big day for nearly 30 vendors who will show off their wares! Saturday is also the big day for more than 20 confirmed speakers with a wide range of topics! More details can be found on the Festival Website. Registration is required and includes a free lunch on Saturday! Please see the Festival site below and make plans to be in San Luis Obispo and help us celebrate the "Year of the Healthful Grape" See: http://www.crfg-central.org/2006_Festival/festival_2006_home.htm Questions? Write Joe Sabol at Jsabol@calpoly.edu Thanks a million Leo! Joe mailto:jsabol@calpoly.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fruiting (Not!) Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 06:56:10 -0700 From: Michael Zarky Dear Leo, My apricot crop is zero. (it wasn't much last year either). The late cold rains certainly seem to be a factor. Even leaf appearance was much delayed. Peach set is poor, and leaf curl, despite spraying, is pretty bad this year. A friend's tree in Culver City, thought by experts to be "Springtime", ususally ripens fruit about May 8; it was 3 weeks later this year, which was not a surprise. My own peaches are also much delayed. Some plums and pluots are there, nothing abundant. I had some cherries last year (young tree) but nothing this year. My higher chill apples and pears usually don't come out of dormancy until about June, so I can't tell you about fruit set, but some younger apple varieties are blooming now. My Anna crop is very small; I guess I should check whether it is ripe as it usually comes in June. Citrus seem to have a good set on this year's bloom. My Jaboticaba is about to ripen. [my tree usually gives one main spring crop; I don't get the repeat crops that many do, although once in a while a very small second crop]. Here;s something I've wanted to ask about: I observe the buds gathering their strength, usually in February or March, but then if there is a cold/wet period as they are blooming, there is no set, it often appears as if the buds just withdraw back into the tree, and the tree tries again soon afterwards. That happened in fact twice this year; only on the third try did the fruit appear (by the thousands). So one year my crop appeared in early May when the blooms set successfully on the first try. I wonder if others have a similar experience? That's my report from a colder zone at the bottom of a hill in Moorpark, CA. Michael mailto:mzarky@earthlink.net > Please write about your fruiting hits or misses. My apricot crop > was very small. It may have been raining during the bloom > period. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Getting Started With Longans, Pomelo, and Mangoes Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:57:31 -0700 (PDT) From: Bruce Brennan Hello Leo, I just became a dues paying member of CRFG. Starting this summer with Longan, Pomelo, Keitt & Edward Mangos from Ed Beard, Beard Tropicals in Goleta. Bruce B mailto:bjbinsjo@yahoo.com San Jose, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Leo's Mistake - CRFG Membership Annual Dues Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 17:55:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Marvnpet@aol.com CRFG Membership is $30 a year, or three years for $87, not $13 a year. The $13 might be for chapter dues or for newsletter subscription, but certainly not for CFRG membership. Have a GRAPE DAY !!! Marve mailto:Marvnpet@aol.com > Membership! Only $13 per year! Join Now! Send payment to: > CRFG, San Diego Chapter c/o Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte > Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Where can I buy pitaya plants in Florida? Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 17:51:59 -0700 (PDT) From: daoud haily Where can I buy pitaya plants in Florida? Doud Haily mailto:haily123452003@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Enjoying Pitaya Fruit In China! Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 12:15:56 -0400 From: James Tanner -W15930 Thanks for you quick and detailed reply. I will talk with my wife and then decide what to do. Again, I appreciate your reply. I am currently on a business trip in Tianjin China and am enjoying Dragon Fruit every morning. Man, it tastes so good. Best Regards, -James mailto:James.Tanner@motorola.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Trying IMO On Papaya; Maradol Papaya Question Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2006 11:26:59 -0500 From: Elizabeth A Young Hello Leo, After reading the article on Indigenous Micro-Organisms by Professor Reinders that you sent out May 30, I decided to try it. We were out of town two weeks after that post was sent so it has taken me a while to get it going. Today was the first day I was able to use the IMO and I decided to try a test on several Maradol papaya plants that are ten to twelve inches tall in two gallon pots. These were started from seeds from fruit purchased at the super market. Since the article had statements regarding use by spraying the leaves or soil I am testing leaf spray only, soil spray only, leaf plus soil spray and a plant with no IMO spray. Hopefully the summer won't be so hot that I can keep up with the project and let you know later what the results are. Do you know how big the Maradol papaya plants get? They are growing in the greenhouse which has shade cloth over it so it won't get extremely hot inside, just similar to outside. Our summers are humid and in the high eighty to low one hundred degree range. It will be partially heated this winter just to keep things from freezing on the 'warm' side. I may have to keep it a little warmer than previously planned to keep the papaya alive, I don't know what the low temp. tolerance is for them. Thanks for the newsletter, though I am in Missouri (Central USA with freezing winters), I can glean a little information that is useful to me in the greenhouse and it makes for fun reading hearing what others are growing around the world. Elizabeth Young mailto:whisperyoung@juno.com [I believe that you can control the height of your papaya by removing the top tips. Maybe break off tender tips, or prune them later. Any other suggestions? -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Arizona Rare Fruits Suffer In The Heat Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2006 14:07:59 -0700 From: Doug Jones Here's a note on how things are going in the hot part of country. I live in Mesa Az, near Phoenix, with average daily highs consistently about 110 degrees. Last year I put 50% shade cloth over the greenhouse, but the plants got way too "leggy", so I thought I'd try something different. I put some spray over the greenhouse and took off most of the sides to try and cut down on the heat. I also put down 2-3 feet of tree trimming chips on the ground.Still gets 110. The pitahaya turned yellow and cooked, only 3 blossoms and no fruit compared to 40+ blossoms and fruit last year. Many things in pots died -probably got the sides of the pots too hot. Some banana leaves yellow and cooked. Cherimoya that I hand pollinated all fell off. Papaya and Inga bean yellowing. Avocado trees 4 years old have limb tips burned, no fruit set - had 12-15 last year. Four young avocado trees all died. Guava trees definitely more yellow and less fruit than last year. And so on. Overall things don't look so good. So, any suggestions? Do I try 30% shade cloth? The shade cloth seems to tear apart in the wind. So do I spray paint with 30% white paint like I've seen on some of the greenhouses. I thought about putting in more swamp coolers or mist systems. The mist system leaves the leaves below it all shriveled with salt build up - killed 3 cherimoyas. I stopped the 2 swamp coolers because they couldn't keep the 50' X 85' X 15' greenhouse cool. Adding 4-5 more swamp would be too expensive. So, any suggestions from anybody? Doug Jones <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? Posted by: "Tom Waters" waterslv@yahoo.com Fri Jun 16, 2006 2:53 pm (PST) Has any members grown PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla in Southern California and\or Israel? I need to know if this will grow here outdoors here in orange county, or if it should be put inside the greenhouse. Roger do you know if this will grow here in SO cal? Many thanks! -Tom Waters OC,CA Zone 10a mailto:waterslv@yahoo.com --------------------------------------------------------------------- Re: PASSIFLORA LIGULARIS - Sweet granadilla grown in CA? or Israel? Posted by: "Nestlebrae.Exotics" nestlebrae.exotics@xtra.co.nz Fri Jun 16, 2006 4:03 pm (PST) It grows for us, so you shouldn't have any problems. John D Prince & Rosemary Steele mailto:nestlebrae.exotics@xtra.co.nz http://www.helensville.co.nz/nestlebrae/ --------------------------------------------------------------------- Fruiting habits litchee versus longan Posted by: "luc vleeracker" lucvleeracker@yahoo.com Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:49 am (PST) A funny thing i noticed is that the fruit on the longans are on the more shady side of the trees and the Litchee in full sun. Since it started raining the longanfruits are visibly increasing in size - amazing how fast. Luc mailto:lucvleeracker --------------------------------------------------------------------- Re: fruiting habits litchee versus longan Posted by: "Greg Woolley" gregwoolley@optusnet.com.au Fri Jun 23, 2006 5:28 pm (PST) Hi Luc, I had a fruiting kohala longan in Perth and the vast majority of its fruits were on the shady side also. I wonder if this is the norm with longan? Cheers, Greg <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Thomcord Grape: Flavorful, Attractive--and Seedless! Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:15:35 -0400 From: ARS News Service Two of America's favorite grapes--Concord, of peanut-butter-and-jelly-sandwich fame, and Thompson Seedless, a summertime classic--are proud parents of a tasty seedless grape called Thomcord. The plump, juicy Thomcord was developed by the Agricultural Research Service's grape breeders in California. Thomcord has the blue-black skin, whitish bloom and bold flesh color of the Concord, plus a pleasing Concord-like flavor that's lightened by the sweet, mild taste of its Thompson parent. The fruit is slightly firmer than Concord. Like Thompson Seedless, Thomcord is well suited for California's sunny vineyards, according to research horticulturist David W. Ramming. He leads the grape-breeding studies at the ARS San Joaquin Valley Agricultural Sciences Center at Parlier, Calif. Thomcord was the unexpected bonus of a laboratory experiment that Ramming and technician Ronald L. Tarailo conducted in the '80s. Their intent was to hybridize, or cross, a Thompson with a Concord to answer a scientific question about a then-new procedure for breeding superior new seedless grapes. The experiment not only resolved the technical query, but also resulted in a promising plant, A29-67, that is today's Thomcord. The scientists put A29-67 through 17 years of scrutiny in California vineyards before determining in 2003 that it was ready for growers and gardeners. Already a hit at local farmers' markets during its experimental days, Thomcord may begin showing up at other venues, such as the fresh-fruit section of supermarkets, within a few years. The grape ripens in late July through mid-August. ARS' grape-breeding research in California dates back to 1923. Over the years, the research has yielded new varieties of red, white and black grapes for hobbyist and professional growers. These fruits of the California studies include some of today's best-selling seedless grapes. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pomegranate Fruit Bars Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 07:15:56 -0400 From: ARS News Service Pomegranates bursting with sweet-and-tart juice and slippery little seeds--or "pips"--may be the world's most fun-to-eat fruit. Now, thanks to a process invented by Agricultural Research Service (ARS) scientists in California, you can enjoy the flavor of freshly harvested pomegranates even when this fruit is out of season, or when you don't have the time to section and savor it. A new, all natural, snack-size bar captures the taste of orchard-fresh pomegranates and apples, yet slips conveniently into a child's lunch sack, a grown-up's briefcase, or a hiker's backpack for an on-the-go treat. Moist and chewy, each fat-free bar contains only about 100 calories and is rich in fiber, vitamin C and anthocyanins--natural compounds that may benefit our health. Food technologist and research leader Tara H. McHugh of the ARS Western Regional Research Center in Albany, Calif., is co-inventor of the technology used to make the "Wonderful Pomegranate FruitFast" bars from whole fruit, without the need for artificial preservatives or other additives. Flavonoid Sciences of Eastport, Mich., manufactures and markets the pomegranate-apple bars, as well as two other new flavors also made with the ARS-developed technique: Montmorency CherryFlex FruitFast Bar and Wild Blueberry IQ FruitFast bars. All are newly available online at www.FruitFast.com and at a growing number of stores. McHugh and agricultural engineer Charles C. Huxsoll of Moraga, Calif., now retired from ARS, created the food-processing approach as part of research to help find new ways to entice kids, teens and adults to eat the recommended five to nine servings a day of fruits and vegetables. It's estimated that less than 20 percent of Americans meet that guideline. The new bars are a boon for growers and processors, giving them new markets for perishable fruits. The technology allows them to make fruit into puree and concentrate that--after the busy harvest season winds down--can be processed into the all-fruit bars. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200607A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - July 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200607B.txt ___________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Shamrock - A pest plant has recently begun to be around the yard. Jim Neitzel says it's shamrock. It is very difficult to eradicate, coming promptly back after being removed. How have you dealt with it? Avocado Mite? My Haas avocado has a few fruit with skin blemishes that may be due to an avocado mite. Have you had experience with this? Any recommended treatment? I hate to become a nag, but the number of letters from readers has become very low. Let me hasten to say that I very much appreciate the letters from some of you, but more would be even better! Questions you have, answers you could share from readers who have had questions, information about new varieties of fruit, and much more. I have begun to wonder if I need to do something different in the format? <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, Louisiana Danny Boquet New Subscriber, Miami Shores, Florida Yvrose Valdez <><><> Readers Write <><><> Casimiroa query Barry Hicks Re: Casimiroa query Leo Manuel To: Barry Hicks My Bananas and Figs In San Diego Jon Verdick Improving Passionfruit By Hand Pollination Kathy & Peter East San Diego County Struggling To Cope With Heat Marion Brodie Passiflora ligularis "Holzinger, Bob" To: waterslv@yahoo.com 'Laie Gold' papaya in San Diego, CA Ryan <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm New Focus on an Old Fruit ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, Louisiana From: Danny Boquet Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 15:37:35 -0500 I am Danny Boquet, in South Central Louisiana, USA (about 50 miles southwest of New Orleans) My wife and I purchased our current home about 3 years ago and I have been planting fruit trees and bushes as I can. So far we have 1. 22 citrus 2. 5 peaches 3. 6 plums 4. 2 pomegranates 5. 2 pineapple guavas 6. 2 jujubes 7. 2 apple 8. 3 pear 9. 1 asian pear 10. 1 plumcot 11. 1 mulberry 12. 4 muscadine 13. 1 quince 14. American persimmon 15. 7 figs 16. 3 pecan 17. 2 walnut 18. A row of blackberries (not doing well) 19. 3 loquat trees. 5. Fruit I have on my list to plant 1. Olives 2. Cherry of the Rio Grand (on the way) 3. Capulin Cherry (may have a source) 4. Che 5. Goumi 6. Paw Paw 7. Banana (may have a source) 8. Japanese persimmon 9. Maypop (have a source, just need to go dig some up) 10. Cold hardy guavas 11. Anything tasty and unusual, although I'm running out of room. We may have to take one of the horse pastures. 6. Readers may be interested to know 1. We have chickens, Guinea fowl, turkey, Lady Amherst pheasant, Nigerian Dwarf dairy goats, love birds, and cockatiels (Oh, and a dog and two cats). My favorites are the goats. 2. Our place (hobby farm?) is about 6 acres outside of Houma, LA. On one side is a small subdivision; on the other is a sugar canefield. 3. We have twin daughters going to Vandebilt Catholic high school (8th grade) and a son going to St Francis grade school (7th grade). 4. I like staying home and my wife likes camping. We usually stay home, as the children always seem to have something going on. 5. I am a mechanical engineer and my wife is a registered nurse. 6. As soon as the shed is finished (still need to do plumbing and build bathroom), I would like to start home winemaking. Last year we made fig wine (excellent). I also have an interest in knifemaking and hope to start soon. Danny D. Boquet mailto:dboquet@charter.net Design Engineer ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Miami Shores, Florida Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 14:47:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Yvrose Valdez My name is Yvrose Valdez 86 N.W. 108th St. Miami Shores, Fl 33168. Love to garden and take care of many fruits trees in my garden. Happy gardening, Yvrose Valdez mailto:yvrosevaldez@yahoo.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Casimiroa query From: Barry Hicks Date: Sun, 02 Jul 2006 06:16:06 +1000 Hello Leo, I have a query about a white sapote (Casimiroa edulis) that won't fruit. The tree is 7-8 years old and flowers and sets a crop that all drops when it is small. Any suggestions? Regards Barry Hicks mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Casimiroa query Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 14:01:07 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Barry Hicks If it is a seedling, then it isn't surprising. But if it's a grafted tree, then I'd be looking at whether the water is adequate, drainage works, not over-fertilized, etc. Let's see what the readers suggest. Leo mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Bananas and Figs In San Diego Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 17:17:26 -0700 From: Jon Verdick Leo, Your Gluay Namwah banana has just finished fruiting, and has a wonderful texture and flavor, like so many of the Namwah types. I have also just finished a bunch of Pisang Ceylon, which I knew nothing about when I obtained it. Now, 3 years later, it is a definite winner, with many hands of half size bananas which are sweet with a nice citrusy aftertaste. Also just finished were Orinocco (which took 9-10 months to ripen and were a little pithy) and Monthan, which always makes a nice, large, sweet, very dense fruit. I am awaiting Goldfinger (always a good performer), Ebun Musak, Tomoc, Mysore and Malango. The Tomoc was from you, and looks a lot like my Lakatan, so I am very eager to try it (maybe it is related), though it has about 4-5 months to go before it ripens. Now that most of my cuttings have rooted and leafed out, I expect to add about 100 varieties of figs this year, nearly doubling my collection. If you are looking for something, let me know, as I have a good selection, but many are one or two of a kind, and will sell fast at the CRFG Chapter Plant Sale on Sept 2. I am still selling plants (mostly bananas and figs, with a few odds and ends) at the La Mesa Farmer's Markets a couple Fridays a month. If you are in the neighborhood, you should stop by and see the jungle. Jon mailto:jonv1@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Improving Passionfruit By Hand Pollination From: Kathy & Peter Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 14:00:12 -0700 (PDT) Dear Leo, I wanted to let you know that I have improved my crop of Frederick (sp?) Passionfruit by hand pollination. I read a back issue of the 'Fruit Gardener" a publication from California Rare Fruit Growers; the article was on hand pollination of passionfruit flowers to increase the fruit production. I will send you a photo of my passionfruit that have suddenly appeared. I have had this huge vine over my compost pile for around five years now. I thought that the high nitrogen levels were interfering with the fruiting of the passionfruit vine. Since i could not easily move either one of them, I was happy to get around ten or twenty fruits each year from this lovely looking plant. I go out there with a small paint brush and rub the five "do-dads" that hold the pollen, you can easily see which these are and rub it generously on the three "d0- dads" that need the pollen to fruit. These last above mentioned structures are directly above the five pollen holding structures. I cannot find the article right now, so pardon my jargon!!!! In about two weeks, low and behold, green globes, or egg shaped huge passionfruit were becoming visible where before there were none!!! Isn't it great to be a rare fruit grower? Thanks for your newsletter, I really enjoy reading it!!!! Kathy diewald, costa mesa, ca. Emails welcome!!! Pictures to follow, (my husband can add them to a future email) I just found the info on the CRFG magazine, the Fruit Gardener. It was the march and april issue from 2005, titled: "Successful Fruiting The Passifloras" page twenty. Forgive the "doo- dads" it does make it less scary to deal with doo- dads, don't you think? Attached are digital pictures of my compost pile adorned with a Fredrick passionfruit plant. It resembles an igloo! The other pictures are of my new crop of passionfruit and the method of hand pollination with an artist brush. These fruits are not only plentiful now, but the largest I had ever grown before. Kathy And Peter Diewald mailto:mccwald@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: East San Diego County Struggling To Cope With Heat From: Marion Brodie Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 09:23:24 +0000 (GMT) Hi Leo Well this heat/humidity that we are having right now in the east county is taking its toll on us! talk about lack of energy! We have put in a drip system which seems to be working really well however although bananas and semi-tropical plants are responding well, we have been a little more than disappointed with the stone fruit. Hardly much of anything this year as opposed to last year. However, we had a much milder winter no frost to speak of so am sure that's a cause [few chilling hours] We also put in a misting system for the Lychee and the fruit has really responded BUT we have had a lot of drop, did notice lots of webs on the fruit and leaves so we are supposing this is spider mites ?? We bought some bird netting for our giant Japenese persimmons too but whatever is chewing the fruit and leaves got through the bird netting [netting was too large] will have to come up with smaller netting next year Am happy to say that our White Sapote is fruiting like crazy. The tree is covered in fruit. The Cherimoya is so late this year, blossoms are very few and it leafed out late. I did not even try to pollinate A gopher got one of my Ice cream bean seedlings [they were both doing so well] so only one left. Surprisingly the two papaya which we put out in the garden last year are growing quite large and strong so hopefully we will get some fruit next year? I have two tiny fruit on my mango but not sure if they will last. It's a new tree only planted about 2 yrs ago. All in all quite a disappointing year for the stone fruit we will have lots of plums [except we don't care that much for them] the new plumcots don't taste as good as the 3 in one we had earlier [I think gopher got that too] as it died !! Its too early to tell for Chinese dates, but normally the tree is covered. Fig trees are o'k but not a whole lot of fruit. blossom on Pomegranites is sparce this year very prolific last year so this is not a surprise This year is so strange even the guavas are slow and they are normally full of fruit they blossomed late too and not as many which is a surprise. The trees are normally covered in flowers We are having quite a gopher problem right now so we are trapping none of our neighbours trap them so we get the whole neighbourhoods. Marion mailto:marionbrodie2@webtv.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passiflora ligularis From: "Holzinger, Bob" Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2006 13:37:38 -0700 To: waterslv@yahoo.com Hi Tom, Passiflora ligularis can be grown in So. California, but just remember that it likes temperatures on the cool side of sub-tropical, especially the roots. The few places I have seen it growing successfully have been near the coast. Also, like almost all passifloras, it will not survive freezing temperatures. It may be self fruitful, but I can't guarantee it. The ones I have seen fruiting have been seedlings and there may have been more than one plant in the pot/hole. Good luck, Bob Holzinger mailto:bholzing@amgen.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: 'Laie Gold' papaya in San Diego, CA Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2006 16:44:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Ryan Hello all, I am excited about a small thing, but I thought I would share the news. I worked for a while in Hawaii on a papaya farm. Our principal variety was one from a cross of 'Rainbow' and 'Kamiya' called 'Laie Gold'. The fruit is 1-2 lbs, sometimes more, with orange flesh. It is very sweet and juicy with slight mango and coconut undertones in the flavor. I didn't really by the undertone thing until I tasted one and in the aftertaste of a bite I noticed a definate coconut-like flavor. Anyway, I had some seeds sent to me from my former boss, and I have had a tree growing now for a couple of years in a pot in the shade. Not the best conditions, but it finally flowered and set some fruit at the end of last summer. I watched that green fruit hang there on the tree all winter long, as most of the leaves fell off of the plant. At one point I had to move the plant and I cradled the green fruit with a sweater and a belt to keep them from falling off. So, about 3 weeks ago, I visited the house in Santee (east county San Diego) where the papaya now resides and the fruit was turning orange! I harvested it and within the next couple of days enjoyed its soft juicy flesh. It wasnt as sweet or as flavorful as it should have been, but it has been grown in the shade under sub-optimal conditions for almost its whole life. But now I now I can get ripe fruit of this delicious variety. If eaten at the right stage (just ripe) it does not have the stinky, baby-barf flavor of Thai varieties (Khaag Dum)or others I've tasted. Thats it for now. happy growing! Ryan Jacobson mailto:somsag_98@yahoo.com San Diego, CA [Sounds great, Ryan! Let us know where we can get seeds or trees. My papaya fruit (Mexican and Thai) are seldom worth the bother. And, thanks for passing along the information! -Leo] <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: New Focus on an Old Fruit From: ARS News Service Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2006 09:34:07 -0400 --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ Maybe it's their dried-out skins, wrinkled from months spent in the sun. Or their lackluster brown hues, lost among the bright reds, yellows and oranges of the produce aisle. Whatever it is, dates aren't exactly flying off U.S. grocery store shelves. But Robert Krueger, a scientist with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) in Riverside, Calif., thinks we should take a cue from Middle Eastern cuisine and open our eyes, and stomachs, to these dazzling little gems. With the help of University of California (UC) colleagues, the ARS horticulturalist recently uncovered new information about the date palm, including findings on the tree's origins, its current state of diversity and how its impressive levels of antioxidants vary by cultivar. Researchers have known for a while that dates are top-scorers in terms of their phenolic compound content. Also found in red wine, phenolic compounds are powerful antioxidants, capable of shielding our bodies' delicate cellular machinery from the everyday assault of harmful free radicals. Krueger, who works at the ARS National Clonal Germplasm Repository for Citrus and Dates, and UC-Davis colleagues ran antioxidant tests on six dates commonly grown in California. It turns out that the Deglet Noor date--the kind most likely to be eaten by Americans--was their best performer. Krueger, with Egyptian researcher Ashraf El-Assar and UC-Riverside researchers led by Thomas Chao, recently completed an extensive evaluation of the genetic diversity of date palms in Egypt. Egypt is the world's largest supplier of dates, having grown them since about 3200 B.C. The scientists found that while there's much diversity among Egyptian date palms, the country's date industry may want to round out its cultivated date groves with other, genetically different cultivars. Plant diversification guards against potential disease threats and habitat loss. This research has important implications for the future of the date industry--and date palm diversity--which is centered in the Middle East. Read more about the research in the July 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jul06/dates0706.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200607B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200608A.txt ____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Significant Rain In July! It rained at our Rancho Pe–asquitos home Saturday, Sunday, and Monday. Probably not more than a total of 0.25 inch, but it dropped the temperature so that our highs have been in the 70s. The rain seemed to have been greater in our immediate neighborhood than for those who lived a few miles away. The cooler day temperature had an immediate effect of causing pitaya blooms and bloom buds on a few plants, where there had been practically none for weeks. What have you observed at your home gardens? There have been many more letters to publish in the newsletter than there have been for several months. This has caused a lifting of spirits and my sense of optimism has been restored. Oh, that it could continue.... Anyway, thanks for helping! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> None, this time <><><> Readers Write <><><> Jeff's Modesto Fruit Report Jeff Earl Gopher Purge For Gophers and Moles Amy Fernandez To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net Gophers and moles - Other Remedies Amy Fernandez To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net, LeoManuel Marvin's Pismo Beach Report of Fruit Marvnpet@aol.com Aviary Wire Baskets Stop Gophers mtnstar@ocsnet.net Hand Pollination Of Passiflora edulis (Sometimes Works) Alice Rosenthal To: mccwald@sbcglobal.net Growing Blueberies In Hot Climates Information Sought Alice Rosenthal Leo's Improving Knees Leo Manuel To: DAVE SALZER Re Casimiroa edulis (White Sapote) Kevan Snowball How To Protect Macadamia Nuts Rodents? MeeChuck3@aol.com Protecting Macadamia Nuts From Rodents Leo Manuel To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Jujubes in NW Florida (& an apple question) Bill Burson Passiflora "do-dads" & Passiflora In Missouri? Elizabeth A Young Your Passiflora In Missouri? Leo Manuel To: Elizabeth A Young Maypop Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) Leo Manuel Re: alleged "Shamrock" Rashid Patch Punica 'nana' - edible? N Sterman Punica granatum 'Nana' Leo Manuel To: "Sterman (CA), Nan" Re: Punica 'nana' edible? "david.crfg-sd" To: N Sterman My Fruit Trees This Year - Rancho Pe–asquitos Dmshuck@aol.com My Fruit AND Photos For Newsletter - Possible? Marion Brodie Questions: 1. Pepperseed White Longan 2. Pomegranate "Hays, Gary" Ornamental Banana Joel Akin Wanted: Pitaya Plant In Los Angeles Maria Giron Growing Requirements Of Cassabana Sicana Odorifera? tony & sandra Cassabanana Leo Manuel To: paradisi@aapt.net.au Passion fruit Francisco Lee To: Leo Manuel Figs David Yoder To: Jon verdick Annona Senagalensis? Oro Mango? Paul Apffel Question Of Figs And Tissue Culture Labs Wil Lemmer Emperor Lychee - How Does It Do For You? Bananaizme@aol.com Emperor Lychee - Do A Google Search Leo Manuel Health Care For Plants Edward Lin <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> July Newsletter of the San Diego North County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> None, this time <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Jeff's Modesto Fruit Report From: Jeff Earl Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:17:45 -0700 Hi All. I haven't posted in a while. Just wanted to keep you informed of the tropical fruit I have been growing in my garden - unprotected here in Modesto, Ca since 1998. (the lowest temp since 1998 is 26.6¼ F) The following trees have finished blooming for the year. All now have fruit. I have Macadamia's (25 ft tall tree), 4 kinds of tropical Guavas (lots) Cherimoya var white (lots of fruit set each year) 4 types of bananas (2 that have fruit), Lychees, Longan, Roseapple (not quite done flowering) and a single Mango var Ice Cream. All have fruit on them. Jeff mailto:jeffearl@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Gopher Purge For Gophers and Moles From: Amy Fernandez Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:21:24 -0700 To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net Marion, have you tried Gopher Purge Euphorbia Lathyrus? As the following says you do need to have a good stand. I have noticed that the mole which come from next door do not go past where the plants are, but they do get past to the lawn where there aren't any for them to pass by. Gopher Purge (sometimes called Gopher spurge) was not deliberately planted but came up on its own from a single plant that set seeds the year before.Gopher Purge naturalizes itself this way. Here the buds of the Gopher Purge will soon open to some very unusual flowers. Gopher Purge or Mole Plant contains a latex like milky sap that is found in the roots, leaves and flowers. Poinsettias are members of the same genus and contain the same kind of sticky sap which can cause skin irritation in sensitive people. This caustic substance is not a repellant but a contact irritant. The varmint must chew the roots to become ill or die. In order to protect plants from gophers or moles, a thick stand of Euphorbia is necessary. And, because it dies every two years, it is necessary to be vigilant and replant or your precious protected plant becomes exposed. Fortunately, Gopher Purge reseeds readily. Sprouting in the early spring, small plants can be easily transplanted from the ground to the desired location. Another way is Mole Med (I think GardensAlive.com sells it) or Castor oil, I read that the unrefined as it is cheaper, but I haven't found any Castor Oil May Work Against BOTH Underground Pests: Add two tablespoons of castor oil to a sprinkling can filled with a gallon of warm water, add two drops of dishwashing liquid, and sprinkle, stirring constantly, on the infested area. Whether home-made or store bought, apply when the lawn and weather are dry. If heavy rains hit, repeat a day or two after they end; otherwise, reapply once a month until you see no new tunnels. http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com/euplathyrus.htm http://gurneys.com/product.asp?pn=14544&bhcd2=1153022974 http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7433.html Amy Fernandez mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Gophers and moles - Other Remedies From: Amy Fernandez Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2006 21:28:10 -0700 To: marionbrodie2@webtv.net, LeoManuel Another recipe for Castor oil and as they are after the grubs and earthworms, GardensAlive has a nematode (http://www.gardensalive.com/product.asp?pn=2344 ) that will handle the grubs. I have tried this product on the garden area and it worked. My SIL tried it on the lawn for fleas. It will not harm the earthworms Or purchase Mole-Med, a commercially available repellent with castor oil as its active ingredient. Check out your soil for the presence of pests; if you have a lot of moles, you probably have an oversupply of grubs and bugs. Now, the formula. In your blender, whip 3 oz. of castor oil and 3 tablespoons liquid detergent. Blend till frothy. Add 8 tablespoons of water and blend again till frothy. Using a 15 gal. Ortho hose end sprayer, put 15 tablespoons of castor oil mix in jar. Fill remainder of jar with water. Attach sprayer to your hose and spray castor oil solution to the entire lawn and garden area. Apply while walking at a slow pace. After you've finished spraying,start your system and water the solution into the soil (about 20 min. to an area). Repeat when you observe new mole activity. One to two applications per year are average. Spring is the best time to apply as the ground is usually soft. Then, you better warn your neighbors they will be the benefactors of your moles. ...happy hunting! Mix up a spray of 3 parts castor oil to 1 part dish detergent; use 4 tablespoons of this concoction in a gallon of water, and soak the tunnels and the entrances. Castor oil comes in a ready-to-spray (RTU) formulation and in a dry form that can be applied with a spreader. When using the liquid form, just attach a hose to the bottle and spray your entire property. In heavy infestations, castor oil products would be used in conjunction with poison baits. Or purchase Mole-Med, a commercially available repellent with castor oil as its active ingredient. Check out your soil for the presence of pests; if you have a lot of moles, you probably have an oversupply of grubs and bugs. mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Marvin's Pismo Beach Report of Fruit From: Marvnpet@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 01:54:28 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo, I was inspired by Marion and others writing. We had an early crop of Suebelle White Sapote and soon will have another larger crop. The fruit are larger on the second crop. We had a huge crop of Babaco this year, sort a between crops now. They are very good fix as a fruit smoothie with other fruits with a Meyer lemon and honey to your taste. The Mountain Papaya fruited last fall, stayed green, the fruit has hung there all winter, spring, and one fruit has finely turned orange this week. How do we tell when it is ripe? What is the best way to eat the fruit? The Coolidge Feijoa has a bumper crop and just this week began falling. They are huge in size and taste very good. A variety of Blue Berries are set and will be ripe in a month or so. Marv Pismo Beach mailto:marvnpet@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Aviary Wire Baskets Stop Gophers From: mtnstar@ocsnet.net Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 00:23:20 -0700 Dear Leo, Please post this for those losing plants and seedlings to gophers. Try using aviary wire baskets. We have so many gophers where I live that I plant all my plants in aviary wire baskets which I make up myself. There is nothing more frustrating than pampering a plant for years only to go outside one day and find the plant has fallen over and picking it up and seeing no roots left at all. Be sure to use aviary wire and not chicken wire - chicken wire is too large and some gophers will get through it. I buy the aviary wire in a roll three foot wide and about 100 foot long at the hardware store - or a feed store may carry the wire. I have found that Home Depot and Lowe's don't carry aviary wire; they carry hardware cloth but it is too thick and harder to work with and more expensive. When cutting the wire, use gloves and eye protection and make sure you place something heavy on the ends of the wire when you are cutting it so it doesn't roll up and hit you in the face. I cut off (with a scissors) a section of aviary wire large enough to go! up both Also farmer's in the Central Valley of California now are using barn owl nesting boxes to help with gopher control. A nesting pair of barn owls can eat up to 1200 rodents in a season to feed their young. Gophers are active day and night, but especially in the very early morning before the sun rises and that is when owls are hunting. If you install a barn owl nesting box make sure you place it level on a post or in a tree at least 12 feet off the ground - not an easy feat but you will have the most success. It seems since most people build metal barns now and not wood and since lots of old snags and rotted trees are removed nesting habitat for barn owls has been greatly reduced. And if I didn't see it myself twice, I wouldn't have believed it. I have seen two great blue heron on my property each spear a gopher, one heron ate the gopher on the spot by flicking it up in the air and maneuvering it to get it down its throat just right; the other heron flew off with the gopher in it's beak, I assume taking it to feed it's young in a nest. Not rare - but my two year old Red Haven peach has a ton of peaches and they have such a beautiful color - firm and tasty too. My Buddha's hand had one fruit this past year. Ate 4 Moorpark apricots and am waiting for my Fuji apples to ripen - 10 on one tree and one on another and none on the third. Happy gardening. Linda Starr mailto:mtnstar@ocsnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Hand Pollination Of Passiflora edulis (Sometimes Works) From: Alice Rosenthal Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 08:55:57 -0700 To: mccwald@sbcglobal.net Improving Passionfruit By Hand Pollination Kathy & Peter Maybe I am an idiot but I tried this and did not see an improved fruit yield. Maybe I did it all wrong or at the wrong time. I would like to read about your successes. The good news here in Oakland, CA is my vine has taken off on an old chain link fence and it looks fabulous and has too many flowers to count. I sure hope these are naturally pollinated. The passiflora eudalis was planted just over one year ago. My first crop was about 5, the second was double that. I am hoping to get 40 to 50 fruit next yield. Alice Rosenthal mailto:alice@meta4.us ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Blueberies In Hot Climates Information Sought From: Alice Rosenthal Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 09:05:36 -0700 Hey did anybody hear the article on NPR about two weeks ago about UC agronomist Jiminez in California's central vally who is experimenting with blueberries that grow in hot climates. He also has worked with Mangos and Papayas creating hybrids excellent for California climate. I wanted to drop by on one of my many journies between Oakland and Los Angeles, CA. I Inquired with NPR's web site and they could not find the broadcast that I had heard. What I am hoping to find is Jiminez' first name - as I had a noisey baby and husband that made it impossible to hear both time I heard the broadcast. Any contact information anyone has is greatly appreciated too. Here's all the info I put into my NPR inquiry from my sent archive: Date: 7/4/2006 9:06:11 PM UC Agronomist Jimenez (not Jiminez) - grows blueberries and > other exotic fruits in central valley of CA - esp papayas and > mangos in a hoophouse which sounds like a plastic covered > quanset hut with sprinklers for humidity - also interviewed a > farmer named john from Dinuba who grows heirloom tomatoes and > sells them to people at upscale farmers markets in LA. Parlee > is 25 mile SE of Fresno. I want to contact / visit Jiminez > and would like to know his first name and phone number or > email address. [Do a Google search for "UC Agronomist Jimenez" (note spelling) to get lots of hits. -Leo] mailto:alice@meta4.us ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Leo's Improving Knees From: Leo Manuel Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 10:44:52 -0700 To: DAVE SALZER Hi Dave, My knees are much better than before surgery, but the most recently repaired one doesn't have the flexibility that I'd hoped, even after the manipulation under anesthesia. My other knee also needed the manipulation, but it improved to be just about perfect. I'll see the surgeon again tomorrow to see what he suggests. If I had to, I could get by (of course) but I'd sure like a bit more flexibility. My bending seems to stick between 105 and (at best, after working with the therapist) 120 degrees, but it slips back to the lower part almost as soon as I leave, even though I do work on it daily, with the exercycle and walking, and some of the exercises suggested. Thanks for writing! Leo DAVE SALZER wrote: > How are your knees coming along? > > I work in a physical therapy clinic out in Santee and I have > seen enough of these operations to know that get your motion > early. Painful yes but it is worth it otherwise it is alot > more suffering and less desirable with the outcome (think of > it as a credit card bill that you don't pay off- the longer > you wait the more difficult it becomes). > > Thank you for the tips > > Dave Salzer MA, ATC, PTA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re Casimiroa edulis (White Sapote) From: Kevan Snowball Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 11:06:03 -0800 Hi Leo, Barry, I have a number of varieties of Casimiroa edulis growing in the south west of Western Australia which give abundant fruit now. They were all grafted, but began fruiting at different times after planting, some even up to 5-7 years. Hence I am not surprised your one hasn't yet Barry. What variety is yours? Regards Kevan mailto:snoworry@home.it.net.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How To Protect Macadamia Nuts From Rodents? From: MeeChuck3@aol.com Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 15:27:29 -0400 (EDT) Leo, I'm probably not the only one with this problem, maybe some of your readers can recommend a new course of action. My macadamia's fruit beautifully and set with an abundance of nuts only to have the varmint squirrels come along and gobble them up prior to harvest. The tree is about 18 feet tall so its not something I can net. Pepper spray on the nuts, 24 hour a day guards? I'm at a loss - and so are my losses with my nuts! Thanks, Steve Miciak Davis Islands, Tampa ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Protecting Macadamia Nuts From Rodents From: Leo Manuel Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 17:34:51 -0700 To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Hi Steve I believe rats were the culprits with my trees, but too late I removed all adjacent foliage from trees around, then circled the trunk of my tree with something I thought that they couldn't climb over. I tried heavy-gauge plastic, but am not sure it's slippery enough. Perhaps I will try sheet aluminum next time. To really make it difficult to get past, I could cut short vertical strips in the bottom of the metal, and bend it so that it comes upwards to make an even more likely barrier. You can get rodent bait to tempt the varments into eating it instead, or get dogs or cats or encourage owls and hawks to come around. Let me know how you succeed with whatever you try, ok? Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jujubes in NW Florida (& an apple question) From: Bill Burson Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2006 21:32:41 -0500 Hi Leo et al, I've finally stared some modest planting here North & East of Pensacola (zip=32571). We were slightly delayed by hurricanes Ivan & Dennis. Although this year we have been affected by the drought. So far we have approximately: 6 - assorted Citrus, 2 -Fejoa 6 - Wonderful Pomegranates (from cuttings) 3 - Utah Sweet Pomegranates (from cuttings) 2 - fruiting Mulberries 5 - assorted Jujube 2 - brown Turkish Figs (from cuttings) 2 - Apple 3 - Pear 4 - Peach/nectarine 3 - Plum 1 - Passion Fruit vine (Passiflora Edulus) 1 - Loquat Most stone or common fruit here are unknown varieties all seem to be doing well except: the Anna Apple that has dropped all but one (1) of her leaves & looks dormant. all of the the jujubes are all ~ 2 feet tall & a couple have a few fruit, but have just stared blooming (again!) About 45 days ago, June 1, I decided to fertilize w/ an 8/8/8 fertilizer, & watering every couple (3-4?) of days, since there is no rain. Any ideas about what is going on w/ the Jujubes & Anna Apple, should I water? Stop watering? Use a different fertilizer?, or? Bill Burson Pace, FL mailto:powaybill@mchsi.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passiflora "do-dads" & Passiflora In Missouri? From: Elizabeth A Young Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:42:14 -0500 Say Kathy, I finally figured out how to sound a little smarter with my terminology on plant parts. See if it helps you out. The female organs are usually in the center of the male parts and are the ovary (female holds the eggs here) the style (we think more of style concerns with a female), and the stigma (ma for mom) and the male parts, stamens (men- easy enough) shank - (well, I'll spare anything there), the filament (men again), anther (I think antler like a male deer has) which holds the pollen (the male has the fertilizer). Okay, everyone is laughing now but give me a break, some of us just need an extra bit of visual to be able to remember details. I have thought of starting some passifloras here but not done so yet. Would love to hear more about the fruit you get - is Frederick your only variety and how is the flavor? I have never eaten passiflora. Maybe I will someday get one started that can survive our Missouri winters in the greenhouse. I remember one growing in our front flower bed from childhood, nearly fifty years ago, but don't know the variety. It did survive the winter but likely was killed back to the roots. I vaguely remember the flower and popping the funny green fruits, never eating them. Elizabeth mailto:whisperyoung@juno.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Your Passiflora In Missouri? From: Leo Manuel Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:20:08 -0700 To: Elizabeth A Young See: http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/paqin.htm (Has lots of pictures) Grows wild in Arkansas Maypop Passionflower: /Passiflora incarnata/ *Weed Description: A herbaceous perennial vine with distinctive 3-lobed leaves and attractive flowers that my reach 6 1/2 feet or more in length. Maypop passionflower is primarily found along the edges of woods and fields, but is becoming more noticeable in many of Virginia's agronomic crops, especially where conservation tillage is practiced. Maypop passionflower is found from southern Oklahoma east to Virginia, south to Florida and west to central Texas.* *Seedlings: Cotyledons are oval, thick, and have a waxy appearance. The first true leaf is heart-shaped and also glossy. Subsequent leaves have lobes (usually 3) arising from a common point (palmately lobed leaves). Seedlings can occur but sprouts from the perennial rootstocks are much more common.* *Roots: Roots initially develop as a taproot but eventually develop a very deep perennial rootstock from which sprouts can emerge.* *Leaves: Arranged alternately along the stem, usually only slightly hairy. Individual leaves are divided into 3 (only sometimes 5) lobes that arise from a common point (palmately lobed). Leaves are approximately 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches long and wide and occur on petioles. A pair of nectar-filled glands occurs at the base of the leaf blade and the junction of the petiole.* *Stems: Stems can trail along the ground or climb on other vegetation. Stems or usually only slightly hairy and may reach 6 1/2 feet in length*. *Flowers: Solitary flowers arise from the area between stem and leaf petioles. Flowers range from 2 to 4 inches in length and are very attractive and light purple to lavender in color.* *Fruit: A relatively large (1 1/2 - 3 inches long) berry that is green or yellowish-green in color. Stepping on these berries when mature often causes a loud 'popping' sound, thus the name of this plant. Berries contain many dark brown 'dimpled' seed (reticulate seed).* *Identifying Characteristics:* *The 3-lobed leaves, vining habit, deep rootstock, and attractive flower are all characteristics that help to distinguish maypop passionflower from other weeds.* ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Maypop Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata) From: Leo Manuel Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:14:45 -0700 See: http://www.ppws.vt.edu/scott/weed_id/paqin.htm Maypop Passionflower: /Passiflora incarnata/ *Weed Description: A herbaceous perennial vine with distinctive 3-lobed leaves and attractive flowers that my reach 6 1/2 feet or more in length. Maypop passionflower is primarily found along the edges of woods and fields, but is becoming more noticeable in many of Virginia's agronomic crops, especially where conservation tillage is practiced. Maypop passionflower is found from southern Oklahoma east to Virginia, south to Florida and west to central Texas.* *Seedlings: Cotyledons are oval, thick, and have a waxy appearance. The first true leaf is heart-shaped and also glossy. Subsequent leaves have lobes (usually 3) arising from a common point (palmately lobed leaves). Seedlings can occur but sprouts from the perennial rootstocks are much more common.* *Roots: Roots initially develop as a taproot but eventually develop a very deep perennial rootstock from which sprouts can emerge.* *Leaves: Arranged alternately along the stem, usually only slightly hairy. Individual leaves are divided into 3 (only sometimes 5) lobes that arise from a common point (palmately lobed). Leaves are approximately 2 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches long and wide and occur on petioles. A pair of nectar-filled glands occurs at the base of the leaf blade and the junction of the petiole.* *Stems: Stems can trail along the ground or climb on other vegetation. Stems or usually only slightly hairy and may reach 6 1/2 feet in length*. *Flowers: Solitary flowers arise from the area between stem and leaf petioles. Flowers range from 2 to 4 inches in length and are very attractive and light purple to lavender in color.* *Fruit: A relatively large (1 1/2 - 3 inches long) berry that is green or yellowish-green in color. Stepping on these berries when mature often causes a loud 'popping' sound, thus the name of this plant. Berries contain many dark brown 'dimpled' seed (reticulate seed).* *Identifying Characteristics:* *The 3-lobed leaves, vining habit, deep rootstock, and attractive flower are all characteristics that help to distinguish maypop passionflower from other weeds.* ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: alleged "Shamrock" From: Rashid Patch Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 10:26:27 -0700 (PDT) Peace, "Shamrock" sounds like Oxalis. Clover-like leaves, tall stems with drooping yellow (or sometimes white or pinkish) flowers? Sometimes called "sour grass". Very invasive in the San Francisco Bay Area. It has a tiny, hard-shelled, dark brown bulb (or corm?) which always made me think of a very miniature shallot or "torpedo" onion - tear-drop-shaped, pointed top, 3/16 to 3/8 inch in diameter. The bulbs or corms, whichever they technically are, seem to be able to last several years, and sprout up again seasons after you thought you'd gotten rid of the stuff. It supposedly is an Old-World species introduced out here as an ornamental. It surely does grow with little or no care, but it takes over and shades out everything that can't tower far above it. It seems to bear it's small yellow flowers through most all the season that it has any green leavesat all, so it can certainly be prettier than a bare patch of ground. During the dry season it dies down completely and disappears. It's endemic in the San Francisco area. The bulbs (corms?) do seem to be destroyed by thorough composting, but any outside the hot zone of the pile would survive. When we lived in San Francisco, I used to sift all my finished compost through a 1/4 in. mesh screen box, and even then, I would have to mercilessly weed the oxalis out of new plantings. Now that we have moved more inland, we don't seem to have as much of it around. Maybe it likes the fog. Smothering with heavy cover can eventually kill it, but it survives and sprouts back up even after being buried a foot down. An impervious blanket or dense weed-block is needed, because I have seen it sprout up through a foot or more of mulch. There are varieties of oxalis with larger bulbs / corms, that get up to an inch or two in diameter, and those are edible - sometimes called "chufa" or "sedge nuts". They were a staple for some of the Native Peoples. I've never tasted them myself - I never had those varieties around. I've never tried eating the small variety, either, although I've probably sifted and thrown away tons of them over the years.The leaves are very high in oxalic acid, and I don't think they'd be safe to eat in any great quantity, although I've known a lot of children who liked to nibble on the leaves for the sour taste. Home-grown "pop-tarts". There's probably some kind of die-horribly-phospate type weed killer that would get rid of oxalis, but I've never wanted to use those sorts of chemicals, so I don't have any reccomendations for getting rid of it besides sifting the soil and rutheless weeding. I'd like to find out if there is some critter specially evolved to eat oxalis, and then I'd keep a bunch of them as pets... Good luck! Rashid Patch Pinole, California mailto:rashid_patch@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Punica 'nana' - edible? From: N Sterman Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 12:25:33 -0700 Hi guys Do you know whether punica 'nana' fruit is edible? Thanks! Nan mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Punica granatum 'Nana' From: Leo Manuel Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 15:04:36 -0700 To: "Sterman (CA), Nan" *See http://www.paghat.com/pomegranate.html The cultivated /Punica granatum/ 'Nana' originated as a natural dwarf variant first described in 1803. It generally grows two to four feet high & wide, rarely to six feet high. With skillful pruning it can be restricted to as little as one foot high. It is not only small in stature, but even the flowers & fruits are dwarfed. It will bear miniature fruits if grown in areas with year-round temperatures that rarely fall below 40 degrees F. Even though they are subtropical or hot-climate shrubs, they will in fact grow outdoors here in USDA Zone 8 with complete ease, doing fine in winters that don't often fall below twenty degrees. With precautions, such as planting them against the house where they'll have some residual warmth in winter, or in an enclosed area without biting winds, they can even adapt to Zone 7. They do excellently as compact leafy little shrubs even where summers are too short for them to fruit. They generally do not produce any fruit at all when grown in temperate gardens, yet ours have managed to produce a random stunted fruit now & then, though chilly autumn arrives too soon for these to greatly develop. The first photo shows one of the woody flower buds at mid August. The second photo in September shows the enlarged (inch & a half) trumpet-flower as a bright orange-red woody husk that bursts open at the end revealing deep red flower petals. If grown in warm greenhouses, or in pots that can be brought in before temperatures drop, the flowering & fruiting power will obviously increase. Where the dwarf fruits do ripen, they are no less edible than full-sized pomegranates from large shrubs or small trees. But being so small, with such thick rind & mostly seeds, the dwarf variety is realistically only an ornamental. There are other cultivars with double-flowers that produce no fruit at all, having extra petals instead of reproductive parts. There is another cultivar, the semi-dwarf "Wonderful" which reaches six to ten feet of height (half the size of the natural tree), which in sufficiently warm areas would be the one to have for the sake of both flowers & fruits large enough to be worth harvesting. It does not require fertilizer, but if one must fertilize, a little bit of slow-release once a year, in spring, is plenty. In warmer environments where it fruits heavily, the once-a-year light fertilizing will still be sufficient.* ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Punica 'nana' edible? Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2006 00:19:45 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: N Sterman Hi, Nan. It is not poisonous. So it is edible that way. But if my recollection serves me, the arils are small, the seeds are large and hard. So the effect is kind of dry and sour. Cute plant. But not a great fruit. Take care. David mailto:david.crfg-sd@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Fruit Trees This Year - Rancho Pe–asquitos From: Dmshuck@aol.com Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 17:20:49 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo, I had surgery a few months ago and haven't been getting on the computer. Right now my garden is taking care of itself. It looks like it is doing well. Maybe I should ignore it more often. I have a couple of white sapotes this year for the first time. The blood orange tree had several oranges. The mandarin and navel oranges produced very well this year. The peaches and nectarines did well. The Saturn peach produced a few fruits. This was the first year and the chill requirement is too high for our area but I thought I would try it anyway. Apricots and pluots were very light fruiting as well as the Asian pears. Two, Ein Schmier and Dorsett Golden out of the four apples have produced an abundance of fruit. The other two, Fuji and Sundowner are blooming. I have picked several acerola cherries and surinam cherries. The contorted Jujube has bloomed for the first time. I am looking forward to the fruit. Grapes have several bunches on the vines. Hopefully we will get to some before the critters do this year. The passion vine is attempting to take over the back yard. It is producing several passion fruits so I am letting it run a little bit. I had to stop it when it started to grow into out neighbors apple tree. Looks like the pineapple and strawberry guavas will do very well this year. Strawberries are doing very well. They started off of runners from a pot three years ago. I noticed they are sending out more runners. I didn't plan on having strawberries in that location but they seem to like it so they can stay. We have a bunch of bananas starting to ripen. Normally they ripen in December during our week long warm spell. The brush fire in PQ a couple of weeks ago was close enough to watch the flames from our house. We were very thankful it didn't jump the road. I haven't notice an increase of wildlife on our backyard like we did with the Scripps Ranch fire a few years ago. Of course that can as the fruit starts to ripen. Take care Denise San Diego mailto:Dmshuck@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Fruit AND Photos For Newsletter - Possible? From: Marion Brodie Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2006 21:33:37 +0000 (GMT) Dear Leo, Firstly, I had been purchasing some new passionflower vines, the ones I have at present [fruit green and purple] have been around for some years and I have lost the name/markers. However, I do remember years ago purchasing some seeds [I think Morgan Thompson] and I had the most delicious sweet purple passionfruits. I did not know much about them at the time so was just experimenting. Wish I had kept the seed label and put a marker in. This new passionflower. Passiflora N Alato-Caerulea is growing on an outside arch beside our gate. I have been purchasing them of late only for the flowers, so cannot remember if it fruits. But we will see!! Another [new] red one that I have in our sun room is climbing over an arch in there. [Passiflora 'Crimson Tears'] [these are from tiny plants which I mail order]! Last year I grew the gigantic passionflower from seed, it did well until later in the year when the cold temps killed it off. I kept that one in the sun room also. Passiflora Quadrangularis. [I was interested in the fruit as well as the lovely flowers]!! My White Sapote fruit. Unfortunately I did not get to the ripened fruit quickly enough before the birds did. Noticed earlier last week fruit was still rather hard, but with the hot weather they ripened within a couple of days. However photo enclosed showing the size. Mine blossomed/fruited late last year [Nov/Dec] so the fruit which is now ripening off is from then. The tree also blossomed very early in the Spring. And later 2nd bloom in the late Springtime again. So I have various fruit sizes from marble sized to fuller. I can ripen off in brown paper bags but I prefer to tree ripen. I can tell the difference in flavour although I know others say they can't. I am still planning on growing a Chocolate Sapote. Hopefully soon. Has anyone any thoughts or advice about the fruit and growing conditions? My White Sapote seems very happy where it is. A slightly higher elevation, loamy soil, part sun in mornings, full sun in afternoons. I only fertilize with chicken manure and have added coffee grinds. We also compost so there is lots of compost around the tree. Watering ? Deep watering approx once per week. No spraying etc., For bugs my garden is completely organic. The tree is not affected by bugs. I have never seen any! Happy gardening. Pictures - I'm not really sure if you want to do this. I hope it doesn't make it more work for you. However was thinking how to make the site possibly more interesting? And we all love looking at photos right. Let me know what you think! I normally don't send pictures so this is a first for me. Blessings, Marion mailto:marionbrodie2@webtv.net [Does anyone have an interest and the capability to store pictures for sharing with Newsletter readers? If so, could we send them to you as an attachment to email, and you could leave them available for maybe one month, or whatever time you wish? We had a RFNO Yahoo newsgroup for that purpose, but many people don't like to jump through the hoops Yahoo sets up, so few people signed up. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Questions: 1. Pepperseed White Longan 2. Pomegranate From: "Hays, Gary" Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 08:19:54 -0400 Leo, I have a couple questions if any readers have some knowledge. Excalibur nursery in Florida have a longan variety (owner says its from Vietnam) they are calling 'Pepperseed White'. Wondering if anyone might have any info about it, or what they might originally call it in Vietnam. It supposedly has a seed the size of a peppercorn. Pine Island nursery's pomegrante variety is called 'Hippolito', they say its from the Dominican Republic. I have one currently in flower, growing as they apparently do, vigorously. Wondering if anyone has grown it, their experience with it, opinion on taste, hardness of seeds, more details of its origin. What types of fruit have people experienced where the first crop or two tasted inferior to when the tree got more a year or two more mature? I'm hoping this to be the case with my Sri Kembangan carambola, which has a new crop about 2" in size. I've been slightly disappointed in its taste so far. That's all I can think of at this time, thanks for your newsletter! Gary mailto:ghays@harris.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Ornamental Banana From: Joel Akin Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 07:46:19 -0600 Hi Leo, I live here in Calgary Alberta and I recently planted some banana seeds and was told it could take up to six months to get them to germinate. In May I placed them in soil, watered the soil, then put a plastic bag around the pot and placed it in full sun in the garage. In less then a month I had two of the seeds germinate and after a week I separated them and gave one to my sister to work with. The one remaining is doing well but in a little over a month our warm weather is over and I'll have to move the banana indoors but our home doesn't have any good facing sun windows. So I have a choice between an hour of morning sun or an hour of evening sun and indirect light the rest of the time. Its been my dream to try and grow this plant but wonder if anyone has any further suggestions on lighting. Thanks for your newsletter. Joel Akin mailto:webmaster@earth-house.com Earth House www.earth-house.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Wanted: Pitaya Plant In Los Angeles From: Maria Giron Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2006 15:02:14 -0700 Where can I get a dragon fruit plant in Los Angeles? Thank You Maria Giron mailto:maria@packair.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Requirements Of Cassabana Sicana Odorifera? From: tony & sandra Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 10:14:53 +1000 Hi Leo I hope I'm going about this the right way - I want to ask a question of the rarefruit group - My question: What are the growing requirements of Cassabana Sicana odorifera, specifically soil and sunlight requirements. thanks Tony Magrathea mailto:paradisi@aapt.net.au Dicky Beach, Australia ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Cassabanana From: Leo Manuel Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 08:40:18 -0700 To: paradisi@aapt.net.au I found this in a Google search for "Sicana odorifera" http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/cassabanana.html Morton, J. 1987. Cassabanana. p. 444–445. In: Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton, Miami, FL. Cassabanana Sicana odorifera Naud. Cucurbita odorifera Vell. A handsome and interesting member of the Cucurbitaceae, the cassabanana, Sicana odorifera Naud. (syn. Cucurbita odorifera Vell.), is also called sikana or musk cucumber. It is known as melocotonero, calabaza de olor, calabaza melon, pérsico or alberchigo in Mexico; melocoton or melon de olor in El Salvador and Guatemala; calabaza de chila in Costa Rica; cojombro in Nicaragua; chila in Panama; pavi in Bolivia; padea, olerero, secana or upe in Peru; calabaza de Paraguay, curuba, or pepino melocoton in Colombia; cura, coroa, curua, curuba, cruatina, melon caboclo in Brazil; cajua, cagua, calabaza de Guinea in Venezuela; pepino, pepino angolo or pepino socato in Puerto Rico; cohombro in Cuba. Description The vine is perennial, herbaceous, fast-growing, heavy, requiring a strong trellis; climbing trees to 50 ft (15 m) or more by means of 4-parted tendrils equipped with adhesive discs that can adhere tightly to the smoothest surface. Young stems are hairy. The leaves are gray-hairy, rounded-cordate or rounded kidney-shaped, to 1 ft (30 cm) wide, deeply indented at the base, 3-lobed, with wavy or toothed margins, on petioles 1 1/2 to 4 3/4 in (4-12 cm) long. Flowers are white or yellow, urn-shaped, 5-lobed, solitary, the male 3/4 in (2 cm) long, the female about 2 in (5 cm) long. Renowned for its strong, sweet, agreeable, melon-like odor, the striking fruit is ellipsoid or nearly cylindrical, sometimes slightly curved; 12 to 24 in (30-60 cm) in length, 2 3/4 to 4 1/2 in (7-11.25 cm) thick, hard-shelled, orange-red, maroon, dark-purple with tinges of violet, or entirely jet-black; smooth and glossy when ripe, with firm, orange-yellow or yellow, cantaloupe-like, tough, juicy flesh, 3/4 in (2 cm) thick. In the central cavity, there is softer pulp, a soft, fleshy core, and numerous flat, oval seeds, 5/8 in (16 mm) long and 1/4 in (6 mm) wide, light-brown bordered with a dark-brown stripe, in tightly-packed rows extending the entire length of the fruit. Origin and Distribution The cassabanana is believed native to Brazil but it has been spread throughout tropical America. Historians have evidence that it was cultivated in Ecuador in pre-Hispanic times. It was first mentioned by European writers in 1658 as cultivated and popular in Peru. It is grown near sea-level in Central America but the fruit is carried to markets even up in the highlands. Venezuelans and Brazilians are partial to the vine as an ornamental, but in Cuba, Puerto Rico and Mexico it is grown for the usefulness of the fruit. In 1903, O.F. Cook saw one fruit in a market in Washington, D.C. The United States Department of Agriculture received seeds from C.A. Miller, the American Consul in Tampico, Mexico, in 1913 (S.P.I. #35136). H.M. Curran collected seeds in Brazil in 1915 (S.P.I. #41665). Wilson Popenoe introduced seeds from Guatemala in 1916 (S.P.I. #43427). The author brought seeds from Rio Piedras, Puerto Rico, to the Agricultural Research and Education Center, Homestead, in 1951. A resulting vine grew to large size but produced a single 2 ft (60 cm) fruit. Dr. John Thieret, formerly Professor of Botany at Southwestern Louisiana University, says that the Cajuns in the southern part of that state grow the cassabanana for making preserves. Verrill stated in 1937, "The fruit is now on sale in New York markets." According to Burkill, the vine was tried in the Botanic Gardens in Singapore but lived for only a short time. Wester wrote that it fruited at Lamao in the Philippines in 1916 and became heavily attacked by a destructive fly (Dacus sp.). Fenzi says that the cassabanana is grown from seeds or cuttings. A high temperature during the fruiting season is needed to assure perfect ripening. Brazilians train the vine to grow over arbors or they may plant it close to a tree. However, if it is allowed to climb too high up the tree there is the risk that it may smother and kill it. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Passion fruit From: Francisco Lee Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 19:15:19 -0700 (PDT) To: Leo Manuel Hi Leo If you'll remember, last summer, my husband, daughter and I came visiting you at your home. You showed us around your interesting garden and we were awed by your so many varieties of pitahaya. Last year, before I left for California, my pithayas were blooming. Although I hand pollinated them, none of them took. This year, I positively have 1 and a few other potentials. That's true with my passion fruit. I think mine is the passiflora edulis (purple flowers). I have about a dozen of those monsters (trying to trim them after they fruited). About 9 of them gave quite a bit of fruits ( huge egg shape fruits which I attributed to my hand pollination) but one can only drink so much passion fruit juice. I'm hoping your readers can share a few good recipes using passion fruits. Thanks and warmest regards, mailto:kikoandlily@yahoo.Com Lily mailto:kikoandlily@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Figs From: David Yoder Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2006 07:42:08 -0500 To: Jon verdick Good morning Jon, Several months ago I started getting the Rare Fruit News Online, and in a recent one I saw that you mentioned adding 100 varieties of figs. I grew up in south MS where we had lots of figs in earlier years, but later many trees were killed by hard winters. I think most of the figs were probably Brown Turkey or Celeste, although I never really learned how to identify them. My parents had an interest in growing fruit, and planted lots of different trees over the years, but never seemed to harvest much from them. After I married and we were living in MS I became interested in growing more fruit, and became familiar with some people that were with the Southern Fruit Fellowship, and also with NAFEX. Six years ago we moved to Honduras, and I was looking forward to enjoying lots of fresh fruits here. However I soon noticed that there didn't seem to be much interest in producing much variety here in our area. We purchased a farm about 4 years ago and have been planting a lot of different fruits on it to use as a demonstrative and experimental project. We have planted about 40 varieties of citrus, as well as many bananas, lychee, longan, and other fruits, and I am always on the lookout for more fruit to add to our collection. We have three varieties of figs, Brown Turkey, Celeste, and TX Everbearing. I knew that there are quite a few varieties of figs, but I guess your letter caught my attention because I didn't realize that there were that many available. I have done quite a bit of research on some of the other fruits we have, but I would have to admit that I am pretty ignorant when it comes to figs, so I would be glad if you could help me out. Our farm is located in the mountains of west-central Honduras, and is at about 4500' elevation. We have a cool winter with drizzly rains, and then a dry season of several months, followed by a rainy season from May to October. Tangerines do well in our area, as well as Lychees, and Longans. We also have pear trees that have been producing every year, and have recently planted more low-chill fruits, such as more pears, apples, and peaches. Our temperatures are mostly between 50 - 90 deg. f. The figs we have are ripening now, which is in our rainy season. What are some other varieties of figs that you would recommend for our farm. Does the rain during production cause more problems for some types than others? I would be glad for any info you could give. Do you know of any good websites that would be helpful to check out? Would there be a chance of getting some starts from you on our next visit to the States? (I am not sure at this point when that will be) Thanks a Lot! David Yoder Rancho Beula Siguatepeque, Comayagua Honduras mailto:dsy@yoder.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Annona Senagalensis? Oro Mango? From: Paul Apffel Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2006 14:07:38 -0700 Leo, I hope you are well. My name is Paul Apffel, and I am a member of CRFG up here in Northern California. In July of 2005, I subscribed to your Rare Fruit newsletter. Thereafter, I changed my email address. As a result, I am no longer getting the newsletter. (I imagine you deleted me from your subscriber rolls after my email bounced back.) Can you please add me back to the subscriber rolls with my new email address? It is: athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net After looking over some back issues of the Fruit Gardener, I also had two questions that I was hoping you might be able to answer. First, I ran across an article in the August 1993 issue of the Fruit Gardener written by C.A. Schroeder who I know is/was very active in CRFG in Southern California. His article was about Annona Senagalensis and its possible benefits to the cherimoya grower. The article strongly implied that Professor Schroeder was growing A. Senagalensis, and had seeds for it. I have been searching for some time now for seeds of A. Senagalensis! I really want to grow it. I was wondering if you knew how I might contact Professor Schroeder, perhaps an email address or phone number? Or alternatively, do you know of anyone who has seeds for this in Southern California, or is growing it? Second, in another old Fruit Gardener, I saw mention of what seemed to be the fastest growing mango tree--Sherman Johnson's "Oro" tree. There was mention of other members growing mango trees from the fruit of Johnson's "Oro" tree, and also having them grow very rapidly. Do you know is the "Oro" tree still alive? And is is true, that "Oro" seedlings really did grow very rapidly? Was the fruit good? Best Wishes Always, --Paul mailto:athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net [1. A Google search for Annona senegalensis (note spelling) yields pages of hits. Here is a partial quote from one: Wild Custard Apple-Annona senegalensis (Annona chrysophylla) Small to medium sized custard apple like fruit, flavor like the custard apple but with pineapple and apricot overtones. Popular in Africa. Uses The fruit is eaten fresh. Leaves and flowers are also eaten. Plant Cultivation: Medium sized tree or shrub to 15-20ft. Grows best in low and mid-elevation tropical climates. It may grow in drier areas as long as the roots have continuous access to water. Deciduous. Origin and Distribution Widespread throughout tropical Africa, often growing in Savannah regions. Occurs from the Nile River area to South Africa. Propagation: By seed. 2. Several growers in San Diego have the Oro mango. I do. It has been erratic for me, producing more some years, and many fewer in others. Seedlings only sometimes produce a tree that bears fruit. I've had two that didn't. A friend has one that did, and grafts taken from his tree have produced some fruit for me. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Question Of Figs And Tissue Culture Labs From: Wil Lemmer Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2006 12:02:38 +0300 Hello Leo I am managing an 5 ha Brown Turkey fig orchard for the last 2 years. This year we had enough labour to do a winter prune and the trees responded beautifully in fruit size and regrowth However it seems like the set of the figs has been affected. Last year it just kept bearing fruit and we were harvesting till the end of August but this year it set about 6 to 10 fruit per branch and after it went back into vegative stage. It seems like we will be done with the harvest by mid August. Another thing is that we are having a much milder summer (35 to 38C) compared to last years (42 to 45C). Does anyone know anything on factors effecting fig fruit set? Also I was wondering if anyone can recommend tissue culture labs from where one can purchase rare fruit trees. Seeds are not always the best way to go and the strict quarantine laws makes it a nightmare to bring cuttings in. Regards Wil Lemmer mailto:wlemmer@cornergate.com [Do a Google search for fig tissue culture to get pages of hits. from one, I quote a small part: Propagation Fig trees have been raised from seed, even seed extracted from commercial dried fruits. Ground- or air-layering can be done satisfactorily, and rapid mass multiplication by tissue culture has been achieved in Greece, but the tree is commonly propagated by cuttings of mature wood 2 to 3 years of age, 1/2 to 3/4 in (1.25-2 cm) thick and 8 to 12 in (20-30 cm) long. Planting must be done within 24 hours but, first, the upper, slanting end of the cutting should be treated with a sealant to protect it from disease, and the lower, flat, end with a root-promoting hormone. Trees of unsatisfactory varieties can be topworked by shield- or patch-budding, or cleft- or bark-grafting. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Emperor Lychee - How Does It Do For You? From: Bananaizme@aol.com Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2006 12:42:39 -0400 (EDT) Hi Leo I am curious if anyone in California is growing and having success fruiting the Emperor lychee? I have been considering this one for awhile and would like to know if others are trying it. Any comments are greatly welcomed. William Visalia Ca mailto:Bananaizme@aol.com [I have one that fruited when it was in a pot, but hasn't since I put it in the ground (not a good location.) The fruit was golf ball size and I liked the taste. Mine seems to be a dwarf, as it is less than three feet tall. Let's hear reports from other readers. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Emperor Lychee - Do A Google Search From: Leo Manuel Date: July 30, 2006 Pages of hits for Emperor Lychee if you do a Google Search. Visit http://home.cfl.rr.com/tfcnews/ Plant of the month is the Emperor Lychee. This tree is compact with a dwarf growth habit having a maximum height of about 10 foot tall. The tree is one of the few lychees that can be container-grown. The treeÕs compact growth makes it easy to cover and protect from hard freezes. The Emperor is a mountain lychee variety which is a little more cold tolerant and demands a little less water than other varieties. The tree has a beautiful red new growth flush. The tree does not grow well in the calcareous soils of South Florida but seems to do well here in our sandy soils. The fruit is very large, about the size of a golf ball and is very tasty. For years I have been searching for lychees that will fruit well under our conditions in Central Florida. To this date I have had no luck in getting a fruit set. Talking with the folks at the Brevard Rare Fruit Council about my Lychee frustrations, they indicated that Emperor and Sweet Cliff Lychees had been the two best producers for them. I immediately got an emperor from a nursery in South Florida. Two years latter I was rewarded with a nice harvest on only a small tree. Pictures of my Emperor Lychee tree and fruit can be seen at; http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tropicalfruitclub/ album?.dir=/e570&.src=ph ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Health Care For Plants Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2006 22:51:35 -0400 From: Edward Lin Hello friends, Thank you for contacting me. Leo, thanks for plugging away at the RFN. I know how much work it is to be the editor and publisher of a newsletter (I am involved with three, though not in horticulture) and I wish I have the time to contribute articles. IÕm lucky to get 6 hrs of sleep each day due to a heavy schedule. IÕm envious of Sainarong and wish I could have more time. Fully 1/4 to 1/3 of my time is spent on civic and charitable activities and there seems no one willing to step into my shoes if I stop, so I have to keep going, at least for the foreseeable future. I am in complete agreement with Sainarong on the principles of health, be it for plant, animal or humans. While I do not take great care of myself, I make rounds on my trees the way I would on patients and I nip diseases in the bud. All branches are pruned at the right angle and place with a sharp saw to obtain a clean smooth wound which I then seal off with a coat of latex paint. Each tree receives care appropriate for their particular stage of growth and development. As a result my trees generally perform very well. I often see trees in friendsÕ yards with diseased bark, jaggedly pruned off branches or some other unhealthy condition such as mineral deficiency, poor drainage, etc., and they wonder why the trees are not performing. Regards to all, Ed Osprey, FL mailto:elin@ingenious.com <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> Subject: July Newsletter of the North San Diego County Chapter of California Rare Fruit Growers July Meeting-This will be July 29 at Quail Gardens August Meeting- Jim Bathgate will talk on ÒFruits For HealthÓ on August 18th at 7PM in room 402 Bldg. t400 at Mira Costa College. Citrus Problems, Probable Cause, and Comments Round, red brown scales on fruit leaves and twigs. Leaves may yellow and drop and twig dieback may occur. California red scale Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold- Tree vigor may be reduced. Various soft scales including citricola, brown soft, or black scale. Look for scales on leaves or twigs they are rarely on fruit. Natural enemies usually provide effective control. Metaphycus parasites can be purchased and released for additional control. Keep ants out of trees; they protect scales from natural enemies. Oil sprays also effective; time treatments to target new brood right after hatching- Leaves curled, honeydew and sooty mold Aphids Control needed only for heavy infestations on young trees Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold. Tiny whiteflies fly out when branches disturbed. Whiteflies: Natural enemies usually control; however ants must be eliminated. Dust control Chemicals not effective. Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold. Cottony secretion on scales on twigs. Cottony cushion scale. Newly hatched nymphs are red and are'found on leaves and twigs. Older scales are on twigs and covered with acottony secretion. Eggs are in a fluted white egg sac about 1/2 inch long. Becomes a pest when its natural enemies including vedalia beetle and a parasitic fly, are destroyed by insecticides. Reestablish natural enemies and avoid use of insecticides. Fruit and leaves covered with honeydew and sooty mold. Mealybugs present. Mealybugs.Soft oval,distinctly segmented insects covered with a mealy white wax. Adults about 1/8-1/4inch long. Natural enemies usually control. A predator, the mealybug destroyer is available commercially for release. Control ants A ring or partial ring of scarred tissue around stem on fruit skin.Young leaves may be deformed and scarred. Citrus thrips. A tiny yellow insect about I mm. long. Very active. Damage is primarily esthetic; ignore if fruit is for home use. Fruit is scarred, but scarring does not form a ring around stem. Wind abrasion, Ignore, or Create a windbreak or plant in a nonwindy area Surface feeding or holes in blossoms, leaves or very young fruit. Citrus cutworm. Brown to green, smooth-skinned caterpillar with a prominent white stripe on each side. Curls up when disturbed. A problem primarily in the San Joaquin Valley. Damage occurs in spring. Natural enemies often effective. Bacillus thuringiensis effective. New leaves have holes and are webbed and rolled together Leafrollers. Orange tortrix. Amorbia- . Leaves and green fruit have a pale yellow stippling. Citrus red mite. A tiny red mite, barely visible without a hand tens, found mostly on young leaves. No webbing Natural control should usually be sufficient in unsprayed backyard trees. An oil spray made between August and September will control problems in most areas Oddly misshapen flowers and fruit. Primarily lemons in coastal areas Citrus bud mite. A very small ba rely visible elongated yellow mite- Can be controlled with a petroleum oil spray during May and ]une or September through November Holes in leaves and fruit, slimy trails. Snails Leaves turning yellow and dropping. No mites. May be an abnormal number of blossoms. Overwatering Decrease irrigations. Once a week is too much. Avoid planting ferns. annual flowers or plants that need lots ot water around trees. Leaves turn pale green to yellow, especially in winter and spring. No mites Nitrogen deficiency Check to see that fertilizer requirements are met. Symptoms sometimes appear in spring when soil temperatures are cold and trees are unable to take up nunients despite adequate amounts in soil. Leaves turning yellow and drop. Beads of sap found on trunk, trunk cracking. Brown rot gummosis Caused by a fungus that infectst yhe trunkand may spread to crowmn and woody roots. Keep trunk dry, do not allow sprinkler water to hit trunk. Scrape away all diseased bark and a buffer strip of healthy light brown to greenish bark around margins. Allow to dry. Repeat if infection recurs. Leaves turn yellow, root bark slides off easily when pinched. Phytophthora root rot. Caused by same fungus that causes gummosis. Survives in soil for a long time. if damage not severe, careful irrigation to avoid waterlogging with shorter more frequent irrigations may help. If severe, remove tree, use tolerant rootstock or fumigate if replanting. Trifoliate orange, alemow, and sour orange rootstocks are highly tolerant Ripe fruit turning light brown and soft. Brown rot fungus Fungus spores on ground are splashed onto fruit on lower branches. Ccurs primarily on fruit near ground during wet weather. Remove diseased fruit. Do not store infected fruit with clean fruit. A preventative Bordeaux treatment applied before first fall rains can be applied to tre skirts up to 4 feet and ground beneath trees. Older fruit drop. Sudden change in temperature or low moisture Check to see that fertilizer and water are adequate- NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net Aug. 18 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Jim Bathgate- Fruits for Health Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside ----- Subject: Festival Of Fruit Web Page http://www.crfg-central.org/2006_Festival/festival_2006_home.htm ---- San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200608A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - August 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200608B.txt _____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Lots of email, including seven new subscribers! You know that they usually have questions, without your help I'd never be able to answer them. I found that the two articles about compost spray to be interesting. Also, Jon has volunteered to post pictures sent by RFNO readers, with suggestions as to format. Our mango trees are producing more than usual, and I expect that the supplemental water I have been giving them is mostly the reason. "Turpentine" mango trees are bearing this year. Apparently there are various mango trees with that label. I saw some Jim Neitzel brought over that had a totally different appearance than mine. Mine are long (maybe three times as long as wide) and not very thick, with an s-shape (sigmoid?). His were much shorter and oval, and very fibrous in the flesh, although acceptable in taste. Mine were grown from seed from Puerto Rico I received a few years ago, where they were valued as a rootstock. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, San Diego, ÀFruits Near Harvey, Australia? Richard Frost Subscribe "Chris Knight" Re: Subscribe Leo Manuel To: Chris Knight New Subscriber, Panama-Want Info for Guarana E Philipp New Subscriber, New Orleans Rosierosato@aol.com New Subscriber, Alabama "Lorrain" Re: New Subscriber, Alabama Leo Manuel To: peanutsfarm1@aol.com New Subscriber-Mira Loma, CA Cindiblalock@cs.com New Subscriber, San Diego Brett Goldstock <><><> Readers Write <><><> Compost Spray Pitayas Removes Damage Spots! Leo Manuel Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Leo Manuel Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Leo Manuel My Blog From An Australian Garden Site Tony & Sandra Blueberries For Hot Climates N Sterman To: alice@meta4.us RE: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 6 Sophia Grady Squirrels jonv1@cox.net To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Figs for Honduras jonv1@cox.net To: dsy@yoder.net Posting pix For RFNO jonv1@cox.net Re: Posting pix For RFNO jonv1@cox.net Blueberries for Hot Climates and Manuel Jimenez Springville Lavender Gardens To: alice@meta4.us Delicious Passion Fruit Butter Timnovida@aol.com To: kikoandlily@yahoo.com Re: Casimiroa Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 20:46:52 +1000 Barry Hicks To: snoworry@home.it.net.au Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 3 chambejf@songs.sce.com Annona senegalensis christopher.marshall@att.net To: athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net Re: Posting pix Leo Manuel To: jonv1@cox.net Re: blueberries for hot climates Leo Manuel To: N Sterman Southern Highbush Blueberries Leo Manuel Re: Blueberries For Hot Climates N Sterman Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 6 James Freedner Re: Annona senegalensis christopher.marshall@att.net To: Paul Apffel Re: Annona senegalensis christopher.marshall@att.net Re: Plants in Tucson christopher.marshall@att.net To: Paul Apffel Chickens for Oxalis? Amy Fernandez To: rashid_patch@yahoo.com Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 21 Bananaizme@aol.com Black Sapote John Brode Re: Black Sapote Leo Manuel To: John Brode Ice Cream Bean Inga edulis "Chris" Re: Dragon Fruit Lon Rombough To: Ian August Newsletter of the North San Diego County CRFG Ben Pierce <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Irrigating When the Leaves Get Hot ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego, ÀFruits Near Harvey, Australia? Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 21:03:46 -0700 From: Richard Frost I am Richard Frost, in San Diego, CA (32¡ 57' 57.07" N, 117¡ 07' 54.61" W) Fruit trees (& vines) I am now growing are Hood Pear, Eugenia Brasiliensis, Eureka Lemon, Taveres Limequat, MidKnight Valencia, Kent Mango, Robertson Navel, Gold Nugget Mandarin, California Huckleberry, Heritage Raspberry, Flame Grape, Magnolia Vine "Eastern Prince", Thornless Youngberry, Panamint Nectarine, Pettingill Apple, Saturn Peach, Green Gage Plum, Katy Apricot, Cherimoya "Knight", Black Manukka Grape, Janice-Kadota Seedless Grape, Babaco (Mountain Papaya), Sharp's Blueberry, Black Satin Blackberry, Paul's Choice Tropical Guava, SueBelle White Sapote, Pineapple Guavas "Nazemetz" and "Lickver's Pride", Gwen Avocado, Bananas "Dwarf Cavendish", "Lacatan", and "Iholena Haa-Haa", Jaboticaba, Passiflora herbertiana, Passiflora quadrangularis, Persimmon "Matsumoto Wase", Pomegranate "Eversweet", Quince "Smyrna", Pink Flowered Current, Hillside Gooseberry, Cranberry "Early Black", plus a few others still in pots. Fruit I want to grow: Muscat Grape "Redgate". Comments: I'm proud to have Howard Frost as a great uncle and Mr. Robertson as my dad's neighbor. Does anyone know what are the native fruits near Harvey, Australia? Richard mailto:frost@san.rr.com [I understand from Jim Neitzel that Richard lives near me. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber in Tampa, Florida Date: Sun, 06 Aug 2006 22:45:26 -0400 From: "Chris Knight" I am Chris Knight, in Tampa, FL. I am growing: Bananas, Mangos, Carambolas, Barbados Cherry, Various Citrus, and Avocados, and I want to grow Ice Cream Bean Chris Knight mailto:Rmplmnz@tampabay.rr.com "You can't think of running another marathon until you forget how bad the last one felt." Frank Shorter ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Subscribe Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 07:47:41 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: cK Chris, are you familiar with the Ice Cream Bean tree? It grows fast, is a spreading tree, requiring a bit of space, and the beans have an edible fluff around them that is sweet but not especially good to eat. It makes a great climbing tree for children, but I didn't have enough room to leave it in my small yard. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Panama-Want Info for Guarana Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:45:29 -0500 From: E Philipp Hi! I'm Elise Philipp. I live in Panama, right outside of Panama City so I've got real tropical weather all year. We don't even have enough cold weather to turn the citrus orange or yellow from green. We've been here a year now and oddly enough what has surprised me the most was the complete lack of variety in the produce available in the markets. There are always papaya and pineapple, maybe some coconuts, nance. or melons, but I really think there ought to be alot more grown. I've been researching tropical fruits and their growing requirements. I haven't found much in plants available for sale either as culturally people don't garden for food. We grow lots of plantains and bananas, both red and the small apple bananas---which are absolutely fabulous! We also have Soursop, Breadfruit, Acerola Cherry, Pineapples, Noni and Avocados, although the breadfruit and the soursop haven't born any fruit to maturity yet. We also have a bush with small mulberry-like berries. I've started Carambola from seed as well as Mango and Passionfruit, although I'd rather have known varieties. There really ought to be an abundance of exciting fruits here. I'm looking for information about growing the Brazilian fruit, guarana. Everything I've found is about the many uses of the plant. If anybody has any resources, I'd appreciate it. Thanks Elise mailto:ephilipp@mac.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, New Orleans Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 21:25:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Rosierosato@aol.com Hi, my name is Ron Rosato. I am a retired Hospital Chaplain who now spends most of my time in the garden. I have been doing missionary work in Nicaragua for over 15 years and have been greatly interested in tropical plants and fruits. I am currently raising Papaya both Silo and Mexican red, guava both Beaumont and Pineapple and pitahaya that I have grown from seeds purchased in the super market. I have many of these cacti around the yard. Had fruit on them one year but a freeze ruined them. I have started over and have many plants w/o fruit. I am hopeful. This years guava crop has been outstanding. I also grow many varieties of citrus; tangelos,navels, Louisiana sweets,Moro blood, Meyer lemons, ponderosa lemons, various mandarins and tangerines. I also grow Loquats and pomegranates Wonderful variety. I live in the New Orleans area so we all are recovering from last years hurricanes. I did loose many trees but was able to save enough to start over again. I have belonged to California Rare Fruit Growers for many years,so I am also looking forward to your newsletters Please let me know if there is any other information you may need. Thank you! Kind regards and blessings Rev Mr. Ron Rosato mailto:Rosierosato@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Alabama Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 12:30:32 -0400 (EDT) From: "Lorrain" My name is Lorrain. I live in central Alabama. I am interested in fruits that will grow in this area for a homestead. Also semi dwarf fruit trees that the actual fruit has not been genetically altered. I would like a small orchard and berry patch for canning. Lorrain mailto:peanutsfarm1@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: New Subscriber, Alabama Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 09:41:44 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: peanutsfarm1@aol.com Also, See NAFEX - For Fruit Growers In Temperate Zones Not all fruit growers live in the sub-tropical fruit growing zones. Many of them turn to NAFEX for help growing such fruits as grapes, apples, pears, medlars, peaches, plums, pears, apricots. They may subscribe to Rare Fruit News Online for information about growing subtropical fruit. I have subscribed to NAFEX for over thirty years, and recommend it to you. There also is a NAFEX newsgroup, with frequent mailing to subscribers. I'll be delighted to send the Rare Fruit News Online newsletter to you. But, for maximum support, also check out NAFEX at the following web page: http://www.nafex.org/ to get the quarterly publication "POMONA" by snail mail. For the email newsletter, go the END of the webpage: http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex "Subscribing to nafex" where you leave your email address and password. Be sure to write to ask questions when the newsletters begin to appear. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Mira Loma, CA Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 15:09:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Cindiblalock@cs.com My Name is Cynthia Blalock. I live in riverside county Ca. Place exactly is Mira Loma small agricultural community but changing fast. We have one acre and are now trying to propagate some exotics. I have started Mango. Papaya. Kiwi. Banana, Macadamia, Loquat, Carob, Fig and others from seed. Macadamia seems to be the most difficult. I would like Cherimoya Starfruit and many others to numerous. Our climate here is desert. We have a shaded area and will be building a greenhouse hopefully SOON. Thanks Cynthia mailto:cindiblalock@cs.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2006 10:06:33 -0700 From: Brett Goldstock Hi I stumbled across your web site and it seemed like a good idea to subscribe to the newsletter. My name is Brett Goldstock and I live in San Diego. I immediately took an interest in tropical and rare fruits since I moved here from Upstate NY over 5 years ago. I'm a big fruit-lover and I'm married to a native Brazilian which has given me the opportunity to become acquainted with all manner of unusual flora. In my yard in the Mira Mesa area, I currently have the following growing: Mango (Cultivar: Haden) I planted a 15-gallon tree about 4 years ago, but it hasn't grown significantly. Perhaps the location is a problem as it gets shaded a bit by a large pine. It has produced some small mangoes. Fig (Cultivar: Verte) Doing very well here, it regular produces a good amount of green-skinned fruit. Fig (Cultivar: Black Mission) I just planted this last year and is still quite small. Tangerine (Algerian/Clementine and Honey) Chico Sapote/Sapodilla. I planted this about 2 years ago, but it has yet to flower. Grape (Thompson and Cabernet) Peach. Large tree, heavy producing. Apricot. Very heavy producer. I get over 100 fruits every season. Plum. Mature tree. Ripens late Summer. Cherimoya (Cultivar: Dr. White) Does very well. I hand pollinate every year, but it's worth it to get those sweet fruits. Olive (Manzanilla, Ascolano and Sevillano) The latter two are container trees. Black Persian Mulberry. Unfortunately, the birds love these. Banana (Cultivar: Ice Cream) A new addition for me. Jaboticaba. My wife, being a native Brazilian, is a big fan of this small, grape-like fruit. I planted one for her about 5 years ago, but it barely produced. I added a second tree about a year ago in the hope that they would cross pollinate and produce more. This Summer was its best result yet. At this point, I'm having to get creative to find room for more trees. I'll soon be planting a Pomegranate and a Passion Fruit vine (I had one for several years, but it stopped producing so I removed it). I'm also thinking about putting in a Persimmon (Fuyu) and a Papaya. -Brett mailto:Cindiblalock@cs.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Compost Spray Pitayas Removes Damage Spots! Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 11:22:47 -0700 From: Leo Manuel Hi All, Leo, I live in Camarillo CA midway between Hollywood and Santa Barbara. I have had only one of MANY Pitaya plants flower this year. I have about 8 of your clones as well as many others. This has been an abnormally hot late spring - early summer. I used low N fertilizer since November. Also, I have had pathogen damage as has been reported on this site. I also have many epis. About 6 weeks ago I started to spray every 5 days with an aerated compost tea made from a mixture of 5 different "available compost from GreenThumb Nursery" plus worm castings. I made an inexpensive unit to "brew" the tea with aquarium air pumps and a small pump for the extraction. I have a microscope and it is loaded with moving buggers. I use a 1:1 tea to water (which I let sit for about 4 hours in an open bucket to allow the chlorine to dissipate) and I spray all the plant surfaces and then water the roots. From that time on I have not have ANY new bacterial or fungal (couldn't tell which is which anyway) damage. The plants are very healthy and the areas that were infected (I removed the larger ones) are not spreading and dried up. Hail to the microorganism!!! BTW, I am an organic chemist (PhD) and in the past (1972-1975) I worked for Dupont in the Ag-research making pesticides, fungicides and plant growth regulants. Cheers Mitch mailto:mitch@bogdanowicz.net [Written to Yahoo Newsgroup PitayaFruit. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 09:33:34 -0700 From: Leo Manuel http://dchall.home.texas.net/organic/teamaker/ Introduction to Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Main Menu Compost Tea Maker David Hall and Bruce Deuley . The file should be considered a work in progress. In fact, this page should be considered a work in progress. Improvements to the explanation will be made as we get time to make them. Of course you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to read the file. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 10:02:19 -0700 From: Leo Manuel http://dchall.home.texas.net/organic/teamaker/ Introduction to Making Compost Tea with Deuley's Little Texas Tea Brewer Main Menu Compost Tea Maker David Hall and Bruce Deuley . http://dchall.home.texas.net/organic/teamaker/PDFs/brewer.pdf (for Compost Tea Maker Directions) The file should be considered a work in progress. In fact, this page should be considered a work in progress. Improvements to the explanation will be made as we get time to make them. Of course you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to read the file. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Blog From An Australian Garden Site Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 13:38:54 +1000 From: Tony & Sandra Tony Magrathea Hi to you all, hope you are fit and well and eerything that should be growing and fruiting is growing and fruiting. I wrote a blog for a new australian gardening site recently, and this may be of interest to some of your readers. Here's the link: http://ausgarden.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=53 &Itemid=31 Enjoy Life Tony mailto:paradisi@aapt.net.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries For Hot Climates Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 20:55:11 -0700 From: N Sterman To: alice@meta4.us Hi Leo and Alice I wanted to respond to Alice's request for information on blueberries for hot climates. Though I did not hear the NPR report, I suspect that the agronomist was referring to Southern Highbush Blueberries. These hybrids do fine in warm climates, full sun, and don't require acidic soils. I've been growing them for many years and have learned quite a bit about their culture. First off, in terms of varieties, the best information comes from Dave Wilson Nurseries http://www.davewilson.com/br40/br40_trees/ br40vine_blueberry.html I've grown and/or tasted most of Dave Wilson's varieties. The only one I really don't care for is Misty. The others taste great. Though you might not expect it, the best way to grow these blueberries is in large pots, in full sun, even in warm climate gardens. My friends at Dave Wilson grow them this way in the Central Valley! Water well, feed regularly and you'll get nice looking plants and delicious berries. You can find southern highbush blueberries in your local nursery during bare root season, or order them through your local independent nursery. Go to the "Where can I find it?" link on Dave Wilson's site for retail nursery information. Now, if you've lived in the SE or NE and remember blueberries smothering bushes, you'll need to adjust your expectations, as Southern Highbush are not nearly so prolific. Still, they are well worth growing! Hope that helps! Nan Sterman mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com PO Box 231034 Encinitas, CA 92023 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Questions: Fig Trees, Iguanas, and Sugar Apple Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 00:16:31 -0400 From: Sophia Grady Dear Leo: 1. My fig tree bears fruit but they do not seem to be growing large enough or ripen???? What can I do? 2. Also, any hints for iguanas? 3. What is a sugar apple, how large does it grow and does it do well in WPB? Thank you Sophia Grady mailto:grad1820@bellsouth.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Squirrels Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 21:31:36 -0700 From: jonv1@cox.net To: MeeChuck3@aol.com Here in San Diego you can get squirrel bait and instructions (for a modest price) at the County Ag Offices (Weights and Measures). Jon mailto:jonv1@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Figs for Honduras Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 21:45:36 -0700 From: jonv1@cox.net To: dsy@yoder.net David, San Diego is a Mediterranean climate, so generally fairly dry, though this years is a GIANT exception. As such, I don't have much experience with your climatic conditions. My best advice is to search http://figs4fun.com for figs that do well in the south, where you came from. They have the issues of humidity, which are probably similar in their affects on figs as your rainy climate would be. You can do this with your web browser by using the search function, and looking for "South", "Mississippi", "Carolina" etc. In general, moisture leads to mold and rot, and those figs with an open eye tend to be especially susceptible to moisture. I have added about 100 new fig varieties this year, and have started collecting Celeste varieties for side-by-side comparison. If you make it to San Diego, by all means, come for a visit. You can reach me at webebananas@cox.net Jon mailto:jonv1@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Posting pix Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 21:50:39 -0700 From: jonv1@cox.net Leo, I could probably work something out with my Cox provided site, which I don't use anymore, as I outgrew its capacity for my websites, but smaller quantities of pix would probably not be a problem. Jon mailto:jonv1@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Posting pix For RFNO Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 22:03:15 -0700 From: jonv1@cox.net Leo, Let's give the picture posting thing a try. If people email them to me, I will have a go at posting them. The best format is jpg or jpeg. The larger the file, the better. I can crop and reduce them as necessary to a suitable size. They should be at least 640 pixels x 480 pixels or larger. Little pictures aren't usually worth the trouble. Mine own pictures start as 1500 x 2000, roughly 3 MegaPixels, and I work from there. Jon ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries for Hot Climates and Manuel Jimenez Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2006 23:04:06 -0700 From: Linda Starr To: alice@meta4.us Dear Alice Rosenthal, RE Central Valley Blueberries Manuel Jimenez is his name, a farm advisor and researcher, and you can reach him at 685-3309, extension 216. Here are a couple of articles on blueberries: http://ucanr.org/spotlight/dynestour.shtml http://cesantabarbara.ucdavis.edu/sf6201.htm There is a U-pick blueberry farm near me in Springville, CA. Denise, of Primarily Perennials (she also has a small nursery), is growing blueberry varieties recommmended for hot climates. Denise lives on Success Valley Road with a Porterville mailing address Her phone number is 782-9348. Tell Denise Linda of Springville Lavender Gardens referred you. Springville is about half way between Fresno and Bakersfield but a little east along the foothills about 500 to 1000 foot elevation. We regularly get 100 F or more in summer. It would be worth a visit to her farm. I am sure Manuel knows about her farm. Linda Starr mailto:info@springvillelavendergardens.com Springville Lavender Gardens ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Delicious Passion Fruit Butter Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 05:19:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Timnovida@aol.com To: kikoandlily@yahoo.com Leo, Kiko & Lily, I grow passion fruit too, this recipe is a winner. English people call it "curd". The author of the recipe, Rose Levy Berenbaum, is a famous cook. My Dentist pal, COL Ken Dunn refused to share his jar with his dental assistants, did not want crackers with it, he requested a spoon, and to be left alone with both jars. It is just wonderful on crepes but use it anywhere you would use jam or jelly. In Hawaii we call passion fruit lilikoi. A jar of Lilikoi Curd and fresh Goji Berry Muffins are prized gift at Christmas. The muffin recipe is mine, bake it and you will not be sorry (or have any leftovers). Aloha, Laurie Passion Fruit Butter 3 ounces fresh passion fruit juice 4 egg yolks 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 stick butter Whisk sugar and egg yolks then add juice. Cut up butter and stir over medium low heat until starting to bubble to a boil. Remove from heat. Cool for 5 minutes and pour into clean jars. Chill. Notes: 1) Keeps three weeks in refrigerator. 2) Do not use an aluminum or iron saucepan. 3) Never boil the mix, you will have scrambled eggs. Rose Levy Berenbaum The Cake Bible Laurie's Goji Berry Muffins 2 cups all-purpose flour 3/4 cup light brown sugar (do not pack) 4 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 3/4 cup milk 1 large egg 1/3 cup vegetable oil 2/3 cup Goji berries, dried Prep time is 10 min. Soak the berries in warm water for 45-60 minutes, rinse well, drain then put the berries on an absorbent paper towel. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease muffin tins and set aside. Put the first 4 ingredients in a mixing bowl; stir until all lumps are gone. Put the next 3 ingredients in a small mixing bowl and beat well. Combine contents of both bowls and mix until barely mixed (lumps are okay). Fold in the berries and spoon into the muffin tins. Bake for 20 minutes at 350 degrees. Remove muffins from pan as soon as they are removed from the oven. Yield 12 medium-size muffins. Serve hot with butter for spread. If you do not have Gojis, use any dried fruit like raisins, cherries, blueberries, or cranberries. mailto:Timnovida@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: re: Casimiroa Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 20:46:52 +1000 From: Barry Hicks To: snoworry@home.it.net.au G'day Kevan. Thanks for the white sapote info. This tree belongs to an acquaintance. It is an apparently healthy grafted tree, variety unknown. The fruit get to about pea size and are shed. I had several mature trees on a property we owned on the Atherton Tableland and they were irregular bearers and used to shed small fruit but did get a good crop from time to time except for one named 'lemon gold' which produced two fruit in eight years. The fruit spotting bugs claimed their fair share as well. I blamed the high rainfall (about 5m per year) for the poor crops but we get a little less than 2m. here at Beerwah. Regards Barry mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Stop Rodents From Eating Macadamia Nuts Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 07:14:44 -0700 From: chambejf@songs.sce.com Leo, For those inquiring about how to stop rodents from eating their Macadamia nuts, tell them to purchase the plastic "cones" that are put around dogs necks after surgery. Put the cones around the trunk and they flair out so that the rats cannot climb up to get to the nuts. It works with squirrels also. The size of the cones are different and can be purchased to suit a larger or smaller trunk. Tie wraps or large hose clamps can be used to secure them without damaging the trunk. Thanks! James Chambers mailto:chambejf@songs.sce.com Rocksmith Nursery Valley Center, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Annona senegalensis Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 14:47:31 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net To: athoughtpaul@sbcglobal.net Hi Paul, I saw your note in Leo's newsletter and recalled that I had seen seeds of Annona senegalensis for sale at Silverhill Seeds in South Africa. I would recommend you write them first to confirm availability and to check on harvest time so you can get fresh seed. Their site address is http://www.silverhillseeds.co.za/. Hope this information is useful. Chris Marshall Tucson, AZ mailto:christopher.marshall@att.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Posting pix Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 08:49:59 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: jonv1@cox.net Jon, Would you check and if you want to get pictures to post, would you also post a letter for me to put in RFNO, telling readers what size and format of pictures you can most easily handle. I'd suggest 72 dpi, not greater than 5 x 7 inches, and JPG or JPEG. Thanks! Leo jonv1@cox.net wrote: > Leo, > > I could probably work something out with my Cox provided site, which I > don't use anymore, as I outgrew its' capacity for my websites, but > smaller quantities of pix would probably not be a problem. > > Jon ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Blueberries For Hot Climates Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 08:58:11 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: N Sterman Hi Nan, Don't you acidify the planting mix at all or fertilize with a fertilizer intended for acid-loving plants? What varieties do you have? Thanks! Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Southern Highbush Blueberries Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 09:16:49 -0700 From: Leo Manuel Blueberries - Southern Highbush Cape Fear- Southern Highbush. (low chill requirement, tolerates hot summer). Extremely large berries, early mid-season. Soil must be acidic, high in humus. 5-6ft. bush. 300 hours. Self-fruitful, but plant 2 varieties for biggest crops. Georgia Gem- Southern Highbush. (low chill requirement, tolerates hot summer). High quality medium size fruit, mid-season. Soil must be acidic, high in humus. 5-6ft. bush. 200 hours. Self-fruitful (plant 2 varieties for biggest crops). Jubilee- Southern Highbush. Midseason, upright and quite compact, with fruit borne on the outer periphery of the bush. Chilling requirement is estimated at 500 to 700 hours. Misty- Southern Highbush. Early. In the west, Misty is quite vigorous, growing very well both on the coast and in the inland heat. This excellent fruit does well in areas with chilling as low as 150 hours and all areas with mild winters and hot summers. O'Neal- Southern Highbush. (low chill, tolerates heat). Large fruit is especially sweet and flavorful. Early season. Soil must be acidic, high in humus. 5-6ft. bush. 200 hours. Self-fruitful, but plant 2 varieties for biggest crops. Reveille- Southern Highbush. Midseason. This berry has a pleasing crunchy texture and excellent flavor. Chilling requirements are estimated to be between 600 and 800 hours. Sharpblue- Southern Highbush. Nearly evergreeen in mild winter climates. Bares fruit nearly year-round. Vigorous plant to 6 ft. Dime-size dark blue fruit. 200 hours. Southmoon- Southern Highbush. Exceptional berries with superb flavor. Florida native with vigorous, upright character. Performs well in California both inland and coastal. Prefers light sandy soils. 500 hours. (pp#9834) Sunshine Blue- Southern Highbush. Evergreen, compact habit to 3 ft. Showy pink bloom. Heavy crops. Very low chilling requirement (150 hours) yet frost hardy. Tolerales higher pH soils better than other varieties. The OÕNeal was one of the first Southern Highbush types introduced in California for home gardeners and it still is a first choice with a fine quality berry. To make growing Blueberries easier, DONÕT Plant them in the ground!! * Blueberries make a wonderful container plant. * They are very ornamental as well as productive when grown in a container. * See: Growing Blueberries in Containers from Ed Laivo Note: The trick is the soil mix. Blueberries like a low PH of 4.5 to 6.0 with 5.5 being optimal. But they also like to grow in actively decomposing organic matter. ----------------------------------------------------------- Soil Sulfer to achieve 4.5 pH in Teaspoons per cubic foot pH Sand Loam Clay 5.0 0.5 1.5 2.3 5.5 1.0 3.0 4.5 6.0 1.4 4.3 6.5 6.5 1.8 5.6 8.4 7.0 2.5 7.5 11.3 Here is a mix that has been very successful for me: 1/3 Pathway bark (1/4 inch) 1/3 Peat Moss (coarse, if you can find it) 1/3 Leaf Mold or Forest Humus based potting soil. Mix together and add 2 tablespoons of Soil Sulfur. This will get your container Blueberry off to a great start. Then, in then spring, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen (sulfate or urea) and minor nutrients. Check carefully when selecting fertilizers, The Nitrogen must not be from Nitrate, as this can be deadly to blueberries (I learned the hard way). With the new introductions, you can have ripe Blueberries in your yard from May to August. Best of Health to You Ed Laivo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Blueberries For Hot Climates Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 10:35:26 -0700 From: N Sterman Since they are grown in pots, and these are bred not to need acidic media, I use a good quality potting mix and don't worry much about acidity. I do use cottonseed meal when I remember which is an acidifier. I also use general organic based fertilizers on the blueberries. I've tried nearly every variety that Dave Wilson lists and a few others that are no longer on the market. BTW, I grew rabbit eye blueberries many years ago and the southern highbush are far superior in terms of production and longevity. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Rare Fruit News Online - August 1, 2006 - 6 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2006 22:40:16 -0700 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo, Pitayas gave a big "push" early in July - around the 4th, when I was out of town. Missed the whole event, darn it! Nothing since and we missed your recent rains. A bunch of threatening clouds came up this way but not a drop fell in Sun Valley. I heard there was light rain in Woodland Hills and out toward Agoura. Perhaps some of our other "pitaya people" can report more. How is your - oh, gosh, what was it? Knee? Back? I know you had surgery a while back for something. Hope you are up and about by now! [Both and I'm doing fine, thanks. -Leo] Regards, J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Annona senegalensis Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 14:47:30 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net To: Paul Apffel Hi Paul, I grow about a thousand different plants of all categories. I compiled a list of what I should have titled 'List of potentially fruiting plants'. Many of these are still seedlings and have yet to fruit. I have quite a few African plants, most grown from seed obtained from Silverhill. Their print catalog has descriptions, which indicate plants used for food in South Africa. If you order from them, they'll send it to you, usually in January. If you are interested in plants other than fruiting varieties, I can send you the full list, although I will have to go through and make additions/subtractions, as I haven't updated it in some time. I have a website with a list and links to photos. The URL is complicated as it is through my ISP but here it is: http://home.att.net/christopher.marshall/AcaciaEtc_home.html . Nice talking to you, Chris mailto:christopher.marshall@att.net -------------- Original message from Paul Apffel : -------------- > Chris, > > Thanks so much for the information!! > > How about that?! I visited the site, and it looks quite > impressive. > I will contact them and see if I can get some seeds. > > I am curious: what are you growing in Tucson? > > Thanks, > > --Paul > > > PS: If you are interested, here is an article that mentions > utilizing the pollen from Annona Senegalensis to pollinate > cherimoyas in South Africa. > http://www.aoi.com.au/acotanc/Papers/duPreez-4/Author-n-Text.htm > > And here is an article about efforts to identify superior > cultivars of native African fruits. It implies, I guess, > that some work, somewhere, is being done with Annona Senegalensis. > http://www.worldagroforestrycentre.org/ar2004/tf_! story02 .asp > > On Aug 1, 2006, at 7:47 AM, christopher.marshall@att.net wrote: > > > Hi Paul, > > I saw your note in Leo's newsletter and recalled that I had > > seen seeds of Annona senegalensis for sale at Silverhill > > Seeds in South Africa. I would recommend you write them first > > to confirm availability and to > > check on harvest time so you can get fresh seed. Their site > > address: ishttp://www.silverhillseeds.co.za/. > > Hope this information is useful. > > > > Chris Marshall > > Tucson, AZ ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Annona senegalensis Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 19:24:02 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net My error. The URL is http://home.att.net/~christopher.marshall/AcaciaEtc_home.htm. I checked and it works. Chris mailto:christopher.marshall@att.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Plants in Tucson Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 19:33:09 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net To: Paul Apffel I missed your PS when I replied. Some desirable Africans fruits are Marula - Sclerocarya birrea, Diospyros mespiliformis, an African persimmon, and a couple of Sapotaceaes - Mimusops caffra and zeyheri. It hasn't produced for me yet but I also grow Kaffir plum - Harpephyllum caffrum. I have produced fruit from Dovyalis caffra - Kei apple. Reminiscent of apricot in color and texture but more tart. Ferocious thorns, however. There are quite a few plants described as food plants and the university library here has a book on African fruiting plants I need to relocate by title and try to find a copy of. Chris mailto:christopher.marshall@att.net -------------- Original message from Paul Apffel : -------------- > Chris, > > Now that I am aware of Silverhill, I guess I should do a bit > more research on these wild African fruits beyond A. > Senegalensis. Have you heard anything in particular about the > best ones to grow? ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Chickens for Oxalis? Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2006 21:08:20 -0700 From: Amy Fernandez To: rashid_patch@yahoo.com As to getting rid of Oxalis, NZ folk wisdom says you can't beat hens, which simply love the bulbs and will scratch out and consume every one given time. They do need to be able to have a free run though and dig over the surface freely which may not be convenient. -----Original Message----- Subject: Goats For Oxalis? From: Amy Fernandez [mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net] Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 9:39 AM To: rashid_patch@yahoo.com For goats Rashid? ;-D This from the OGL i.e. Organic Gardening List 63 goats from "Goats R Us," then run by someone with a connection to the Merry-Go-Round in Tilden Park, Berkeley CA, visited my place a few springs back. How far down into the ground the goats graze depends upon the keen eye of the herdsman. If a semi-"lawn" is desired, he must stop them before they overgraze. In this respect they are unlike cows. I had oxalis before they came, things briefly looked clean after they left, then oxalis regrew in the same spots and continued to spread. Unfortunately they reproduce both by bulbils (my word) and seeds from the flowers, which topple over 2 feet in every direction from a clump. If one had a pet goat, one might be able to do serious damage to oxalis. Goats will eat anything, literally anything. But they prefer lush plump stuff. They eat the blackberry vines,but only after all the grass is down to the nub and when all the tree limbs within 8 feet from the ground have been denuded. In short, "a mixed blessing"! LOL! :-) mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Blueberries for Hot Climates Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2006 12:07:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Bananaizme@aol.com Manuel Jimenez Is the individual who she is referring to. I know him personally and am sure that he wouldnt mind if I gave out his phone number as he is always ready to help those who ask. Here is his number ( 559 ) 564 - 3607 Hope this helps. He also is developing a community botanical garden in the town where he resides that is very nice to see. It has many rare fruit trees and flowers and things. It is a work in a ongoing process. William mailto:Bananaizme@aol.com Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Black Sapote Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 00:35:42 +0000 (GMT) From: John Brode Hi Leo, how are you doing? hopefully you will be getting stronger and feeling better. I just wanted to ask you a question but did not want to put it in the newsletter as I had talked with a nurseryman over the weekend, and was asking him about Black sapotes/chocolate persimmons-which I take to be the same. We live out in the foothills of El Cajon, so needed some feedback from him. He said that he did not think they would do that well, and did not seem to have much to say about them in a positive way. However if I remember correctly I thought you had Black sapote so was wondering if you are pleased with yours ? I am thinking about the Mamey also ? One of these days I hope to get to the meetings but unfortunately am still having health problems, so will have to feel better. Thanks Leo, take care, and all the best, Marion mailto:marionjohnbrodie@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Black Sapote Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 19:28:47 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: John Brode Hi Marion I'm doing pretty well, and probably as good as I'm going to get. I have eaten very few black sapotes and have not been impressed with the taste. Perhaps you can find one at a farmer's market to sample for yourself. It's a novelty fruit but takes a pretty strong imagination to taste chocolate, although it is pretty dark in color inside. I believe Quail Botanical Garden in Encinatas has one that fruits. I believe it is erratic in bearing. You might talk to Paul Fisher mailto:mageethor@aol.com as he lives in El Cajon and may have both kinds of trees. I would expect that it would grow well in El Cajon. I hope you recover your health so you can be more active. I'll also post your letter in RFNO. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Ice Cream Bean Inga edulis Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 00:56:26 -0400 From: "Chris" Yes yes. I used to eat them in the tropics.thx for sending the back issues. Take care!! Chris Ice Cream Bean Inga edulis, I. vera, I. spectibilus, etc. Ice cream bean is a fast growing leguminous tree species of the tropics where it is often grown to shade coffee and cacao.Ê The pods are quite large, 1-1* in. wide and 9 or more in. long.Ê The fibrous pulp around the seeds looks like vanilla ice cream or white cotton candy and is mildly sweet.Ê The seeds are large and are not eaten.Ê Some light frost is usually tolerated, but it is very freeze sensitive.Ê Ice cream bean is not a particularly heavy bearer in Florida and requires cross-pollination.Ê Chris mailto:Rmplmnz@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dragon Fruit Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2006 15:53:17 -0700 From: Lon Rombough To: Ian CC: Leo Manuel I'm copying this to Leo Manuel as there are a number of people on his Rare Fruit Growers newsletter that grow dragon fruit. -Lon Rombough Grapes, writing, consulting, my book, The Grape Grower, at http://www.bunchgrapes.com Winner of the Garden Writers Association "Best Talent in Writing" award for 2003. On Aug 13, 2006, at 3:50 PM, Ian wrote: Hello, and good day.Ê I am looking for a few pounds of Dragon Fruit to be shipped to Eureka, California 9550.Ê I have been searching online, and have not found any. If you have any information or ideas, please let me know. Thanks, Ian mailto:ricanian@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ August Newsletter of the North San Diego County CRFG August Meeting- Jim Bathgate will talk on ÒFruits For HealthÓ on August 18th at 7PM in room 402 Bldg. t400 at Mira Costa College. Message From The Chair Besides being Chair I am also the chapter webmaster. I have found an interesting website called Squidoo that will allow us to have daily updated content on our site. This is a new concept called a ÒLensÓ. There will be news feeds, blogs, links, and pictures. Although it looks fancy it will be actually be easier for me to maintain and give you daily updated information to look at. Some of you may even decide to make this your home page! Squidoo will also earn us money that will be donated back to the chapter. I donÕt expect big bucks but all money earned from site advertising goes into a pool that is distributed to ÒLensÓ creators. For those of you who would like to check out what I am working on go to http://www.squidoo.com/ncsdcrfg/ Remember this is a work in progress and will change often. Eventually we will have a link directly from our site. DonÕt forget to attend our next meeting. Our very own Jim Bathgate will be speaking on healthy fruits. Good Growing, Ben Pierce mailto:ncsdcrfg@cox.net CRFG-North San Diego County Chapter FRUIT NEWS Page 2 Aug. 2006 Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 ncsdcrfg@cox.net Jim Rockoff, Treasurer 760-434-5740 jrockoff@hydranautics.com Aug. 18 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Jim Bathgate Ð Fruits for Health Sept NO MEETING - Festival of Fruit Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Visit http://www.squidoo.com/ncsdcrfg/ <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Irrigating When the Leaves Get Hot Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 07:43:59 -0400 From: ARS News Service Irrigated cotton fields in arid Israel and Texas may one day be watered automatically based on plant temperature. Steven R. Evett, an Agricultural Research Service soil scientist based at the ARS Conservation and Production Research Laboratory in Bushland, Texas, and colleagues are working with the Israelis on infrared field thermometer sensors to take leaf temperatures from a short distance. They are designing computer programs that can automatically translate temperature readings into on/off irrigation decisions to get the most "crop per drop" of water. This is the second year of a 3-year project, part of the Binational Agricultural Research and Development (BARD) program, a joint research program between Israel and the United States. The Texas work is funded by the state's Texas-Israel Exchange Fund. ARS and Israeli scientists are comparing two different methods, both of which rely on the plant to signal water needs through leaf temperature: the newer time-temperature threshold, and the older crop water stress index. Both were developed by ARS. For cotton, the time-temperature threshold method involves turning on irrigation when leaf temperature exceeds, for example, 82 degrees F for more than 4.5 hours. It is based on a discovery by ARS colleagues in Lubbock, Texas, that each crop has its own preferred temperature range for optimal growth. For cotton, that range is 73 to 90 degrees F. The Israelis are using leaf temperatures and the crop water stress index to predict the water pressure in leaves, a measure of plant water deficit or stress. Next year the Israeli and ARS researchers will each test both automated methods, along with a manual system based on soil moisture. Israel uses drip line irrigation and Texas uses center pivot irrigation. In addition to the data exchange, the exchange of different irrigation concepts helps both Israel and the United States get the most out of each precious drop of water. The ultimate goal is to develop farmer-friendly wireless irrigation systems. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200608B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - September 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200609A.txt _______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Pitaya Blooms - Numerous and Varied: During the past week there have been probably two dozen blooms on various pitaya plants. Some that bloomed were H. undatus, H. triangularis, 'Neitzel,' Larry's Guatemalan, and hybrids of Paul Thomson 8-S and 9-S. This comes after weeks of few if any blooms. It is interesting that they come in waves. Some growers have cut some of the buds to store in a refrigerator, and graft back a week or more later, to spread out the bounty. It's hard to accept that August has slipped away without my getting the grafts of mangoes that I had intended. Quite a bit of email from readers and a couple of new subscribers. It's gratifying to me, after a few months with very little mail! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- New Subscriber - Biggleswade, England garylee@thescaryguy.com New Subscriber, San Diego (Near UCSD) Bahira <><><> Readers Write <><><> Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com To: Rmplmnz@tampabay.rr.com Re: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! Leo Manuel To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com An Australians Little Garden Tony & Sandra Re: An Australians Little Garden Leo Manuel To: Tony & Sandra International Horticulture Exposition in Thailand Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Your Request to Join RFNO (Picture-Sharing Yahoo Site) Leo Manuel To: paradisi@aapt.net.au Blueberries and Relatives Permacltur@aol.com Re: Blueberries & Relatives Permacltur@aol.com Vaccinium arboreum - sparkleberry, farkleberry, tree huckleberry Leo Manuel Seedless Cherimoya? Seedless Sugar Apple? dracademia@aol.com My Pitaya Now, and Mango Fruit of My Youth James Freedner Black Persimmon aka Black Sapote Eunice Messner To: marionjohnbrodie@msn.com Re: Guarana - Lead to Sources? Bananaizme@aol.com To: Elise Philipp Re: Changing Over To Another Variety Of Cherimoya Leo Manuel To: PETER DIEWALD Our Arizona Summer - What Rare Fruit Grows Here? hawksong@att.net Re: Our Arizona Summer - What Rare Fruit Grows Here? Leo Manuel To: hawksong@att.net Re: Our Arizona Summer - What Rare Fruit Grows Here? christopher.marshall@att.net To: hawksong@att.net Just Come Back From Shenzhen And Hong Kong William Chow Dragon Fruit Frank Filippone To: 'Leo Manuel' Re: Dragon Fruit Leo Manuel To: Frank Filippone RE: Dragon Fruit Frank Filippone Re: Dragon Fruit Leo Manuel To: Frank Filippone Welcome to the 2006 Festival of Fruit (San Luis Obisbo) Wanted In San Diego Area: Rollinia Mucosa "david.crfg-sd" To: Packard Clan <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber - Biggleswade, England Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:10:00 -0400 From: garylee@thescaryguy.com Hi, my name is Gary Lee, I live in the UK in a small market town called Biggleswade (not too far from Cambridge, for those of you not too familiar with the UK) I have a small garden - south facing - and have recently discovered the delights - and frustrations! - of growing unusual fruit. I find the whole process intriguing and theraputic. We - my wife Kim & I - are transforming our limited space into a relaxing 'semi-wild' oasis for relaxation and enjoyment. I love to relax by cooking so to grow my own ingredients is very exciting. I have experimented in the past with various tomatoes - plants always started in my father-in-laws greenhouse (I don't have one yet. In the process of squeezing in a 6'x4') Have grown very successfully in past Tomatillos and Cape Gooseberrys. This year had first excellent and delicious crop of Cherries. Tree planted last year but had pest problem so I sprayed it as it was coming into bud and had great crop this year. Also have Victoria Plum tree. Minimal but delicious fruit. They are young trees, so I'm still learning how to look after them. Any 'newby' tips appreciated. I have two small Olive trees, growing in containers. Unfortunately no fruit. Maybe the UK is too cold? I have a Blueberry bush (Vaccinium Corymbosum) that seems to growing well and has very tasty fruit, but the crop is quite small as the berries don't ripen all at once! Any advice on pruning and improving its cropping capability appreciated. All of my plants are fairly young or small as I am growing most of them in the sunniest corner of the garden. Here too, there is a young Grape Vine (Vitus Boskoop Glory) which I am training along a trellis. I only planted this - again in a large container - this spring. It is growing well with several nice bunches beginning to ripen. The grapes are still quite small. Haven't tasted any yet. I have a young Peach tree (Peregrine) in a large pot. Fruit seemed to take ages to grow to size and ripen. i have had 7 decent sized peaches this year and they are delicious, much better than supermarket varieties! Last of my trees - again in a large pot - is my Fig. I love figs and have always wanted to grow one. Last year it was in a bad position and didn't do well. This year it is in the centre of my 'terrace' and gets sun nearly all day (when we get it!) I pruned it right back last year and this year it has flourished. Fruit are forming but I don't think the growing season here is long or warm enough? I would love to pick ripe fruit from it. I am growing Huckleberry for the first time. The plants are doing very well and berries developing. Have never tasted one before so watch this space. On a recent visit to the supermarket I came across a Dragon fruit, very tasty but I needed a mortgage to buy it! I wondered if I could grow my own so I saved some seeds and planted them. I now have 10 seedlings. I have no idea how big they will grow, whether I can sustain them or when they might fruit? Exciting though! With this success, I thought I'd try other fruit so I am experimenting with seeds/pips taken from: Oranges, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Lemons, Passion Fruit, Guava, Tree Tomato (from bought seed), Date Palms, Avocados, Mango, Lychees I am also a fan of hot (spicy) food, so have always tried to grow chillis ) do these constitute fruit? I have two plants growing and cropping well in my garden, so have decided to experiment with as many different and unusual varieties as possible and am currently growing - seedlings - in my conservatory 20 different varieties. I have been bitten by the fruit growing bug - purely for the satisfaction of picking and eating my own produce and to grow varieties that are not available here in the UK. Untill I began looking on the net, I was oblivious to the plethera of unusual and rare exotic fruit that is grown and eaten around the world. I now wish to grow it all!! It would be great to find out about others that may be doing the same as me or are more serious growers that would be willing to share their knowledge. I look forward to reading future issues of RFNO and learning how I can transform the culinary pallettes of the UK. Nice to meet you all Gary Lee mailto:garylee@thescaryguy.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, San Diego (Near UCSD) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:00:45 -0700 From: Bahira Hello Leo and Betty, I found your site on line and would love to receive your newsletter. I have recently stopped working, and have only just begun serious gardening this year, so I need lots of advice! My name is Lynne Nerenberg and I live in the area of UCSD. I currently have the usual citrus, but also some lychee, longan, passionfruit, figs, sapote, and kiwi. I am looking forward to expanding my tropicals next year. Please sign me up for your newsletter! Bahira mailto:Bahira@san.rr.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 00:23:49 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com To: Rmplmnz@tampabay.rr.com Leo, sorry but I have to disagree (with your comments about the taste of the ice cream bean.) The ice cream bean has a very nice taste indeed. But maybe you do not realize there are 300 species of Ingas! So maybe it is unfair to say you do not like them after trying only one or even just a few. The species I am growing is Inga feuillei. Everyone that tastes it likes it so far. Has a very nice sweet and juicy taste. Quite refreshing. Thanks, Oscar Jaitt mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com > Subject: Re: Subscribe > Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 07:47:41 -0700 > From: Leo Manuel > To: cK > > Chris, are you familiar with the Ice Cream Bean tree? It grows > fast, is a spreading tree, requiring a bit of space, and the > beans have an edible fluff around them that is sweet but not > especially good to eat. It makes a great climbing tree for > children, but I didn't have enough room to leave it in my small > yard. > > Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 08:14:07 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Thanks for setting me straight. I've only eaten one, and don't know what variety it is. Wouldn't climate be a big factor? Papayas at my home are not very sweet, although (barely) edible, as an example. I'll look for I. feuillei seeds. Horticordially, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 14:48:25 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Climate certainly could be a factor in how they turn out tasting. But there are species that grow in cooler areas of Brazil (the south). Really we know only about the tip of the iceberg. Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Taste of Ice Cream Bean Varies! Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 23:09:55 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Leo, you need two trees to get really good cross pollination. Have not tried cuttings as they grow so very fast from seed. I think they are true from seed so not much sense grafting either, unless you want to put several different species on one tree. Have not tried that. BTW, they are hard to remove once planted. The trunks will resprout. Roots will resprout. Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: An Australians Little Garden Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 17:45:21 +1000 From: Tony & Sandra Hi Leo Some of your readers may be interested in a high density sub tropical garden from which I hope to be able to provide friends and family with fruit 12 months a year. The garden has been going for a bit over two years, before that it was grass. Here's a link to a blog I've started http://ausgarden.com/content/view/53/36/ Tony Magrathea mailto:paradisi@aapt.net.au Dicky Beach Australia ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: An Australians Little Garden Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 08:10:00 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Tony & Sandra VERY interesting! I'd like to see it in person. Horticordially, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: International Horticulture Exposition in Thailand Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:49:41 +0700 From: Sainarong Siripen Rasananda Thailand is hosting the International Horticulture Exposition from November 1st 2006 to 31st January 2007 in the beautiful city of Chiangmai, which is my home towwn. For details, click http://www.royalfloraexpo.com/index.asp . This is a very grand affair with exhibition conference, competions et al. You are all invited to this exposition. I am sure there are organized tours from your country which combine both horticultural pleasure and general sightseeing during this period. At least two Hawaiian members of the RFNO are coming. Sainarong mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Your Request to Join RFNO (Picture-Sharing Yahoo Site) Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 08:02:08 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: paradisi@aapt.net.au Hi There has been VERY little interest in that Yahoo group, so you may be disappointed, if you're looking for pictures to view. On the other hand, maybe others will also join and make it useful. In the newsletter of yesterday (August 15) there is discussion of posting pictures on Jon's webpage. His email mailto:jonv1@cox.net will give you more information. I will approve your Yahoo membership. Keep me posted on whether it is useful to you. Horticordially, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries and Relatives Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 13:50:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Permacltur@aol.com Hi Leo: I blush to admit that I have not followed the newsletter lately, having been very busy upgrading our online course. So I missed the start of two threads where I may be able to contribute. Warm-Climate Blueberries Most of the advice seems to be pretty good. I'd like to add that here at Barking Frogs Permaculture Center, we are blessed with a lot of wild farkleberries, a cousin to blueberries. (I think that farkleberries, also called sparkleberries, are Vaccinium aborea, or something like that, meaning tree blueberry. I don't seem to have them on my database.) The farkleberry fruit is dry, gritty and tasteless. The birds avoid them unless there is little else to eat. However, they are very rugged plants, and very vigorous, especially compared to commercial blueberry varieties. I have grafted southern and rabbiteye type blueberries onto farkleberry successfully, and the yields are fine. The plants produce far earlier than blueberries on their own roots, require far less maintenance, and withstand the extremes of our climate. We can go from excessive rainfall and flooding to extreme drought from one year to the next. Farkleberries do not grow in areas subject to flooding, but they withstand the dry, hot periods with no attention. Of course, when they are filling fruit I make sure that they have water, which one would do for any fruit. Right now we have had nearly a month of brutal summer heat with almost no rain and the blueberry tissue grafted to farkleberries looks good. The blueberries on their own roots are crisping up and I just can't get to them. In my first set of grafts, I made the mistake of grafting high. Now I graft as low as possible because blueberry is very vigorous on this rootstock and we find ourselves picking from a stepladder after a few years. The main drawbacks are 1) You need to have farkleberry to begin with, 2) they don't seem to like transplanting so you are stuck with whatever location they have chosen. They do spread slowly, we are slowly increasing our crop by grafting offshoots. Inga edulis Apparently this species is used to prevent or at least mitigate soil deterioration after clearcutting tropical rainforests for crops. The inga is used as an alley crop, which, in addition to fixing N also sequesters P and other minerals as the organic matter from the former rainforest decays. A common practice is to slash and burn a section of rainforest and grow crops for two years. Then the soil is depleted, and the subsistence farmer moves on to a new section of forest. Using inga, the farmer can continue cropping the original clearing, so destruction of the rainforest is restrained. Dan Hemenway Barking Frogs Permaculture Center www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org mailto:Permacltur@aol.com Our 11th Annual Permaculture Design Course Online begins Nov. 5, 2006. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Blueberries & Relatives Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:09:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Permacltur@aol.com Hi Leo: Well, we are in North-Central Florida, about midway between Gainesville and Ocala, if that means anything to you. Orlando probably has similar conditons. OK? pH wise, I have not seen anything on farkleberry. I'd never seen them before I moved here, and looked at these plants and said, "This seems to be sort of a tree-blueberry." Sure enough, the books confirmed my observation. I don't know how much warmer they would tolerate, but they surely are comfortable in our environment and spread freely by runners. They tend to be more or less evergreen in all but the coldest winters. We have seen weather as cold as 12¡ F since we have been here. They grow also at "Our Bamboo Nursery," operated by my friends Adam and Sue Turtle in Tennessee. While we have a sandy soil, basically just sand, they have a clay/shale soil and their winters get down to 0¡ F routinely. Most ericaceous plants like, or are exceedingly tolerant of, acid soil. However, mulch can buffer high pH or at least release the nutrients at the root feeder zone that are otherwise "tied up" by high pH. I spent a day back in the early 70's with J Herbert Alexander, one of the people who domesticated the blueberry. He had a beautiful blueberry nursery on quite coarse sand in Middleboro, Massachusetts. He told me that he would not sell expensive blueberries to people with high pH soil until they tried some of his inexpensive seedlings. He recommended that they be planted with plenty of mulch. His own berries were all mulched with horse bedding, and they were absolutely fine looking plants. Folks who followed his instructions would have success and then send back for the cultivars. Around that time, I sold vegetables at a Farmer's Market in Amherst, Massachusetts. (As it was held in the common, it was known as the Common Market.) I would dig wild blueberries from my fields and sell them for $5/plant, explaining that if people treated them like expensive plants, they would get results similar to expensive plants except for slightly smaller fruit and probably much better flavor. I also got a lot of repeat business over the years. Unlike the hybrids I've dealt with, these were exceedingly rugged plants. I missed a couple in the field one time after digging a batch and found them weeks later after a blistering hot, dry spell. The leaves were dessicated and brown and the soil hard and tending to fall away from the roots. I took the plants back to the house and watered them, merely out of curiosity and every one (I think there were 3-5, don't remember after all these decades) came back with new growth. The next year I was able to sell them. I've not tried growing farkleberry from seed. The seeds of that genus are generally very small and a bit too fussy for me. If they will not transplant from rooted offshoots, I'm skeptical about cuttings but I don't have mist beds. I avoid fussy tasks. Seeds of Woody Plants... may have some information. If not, I'd start with the recommendations for blueberry or bilberry. By the way, I've tried severing the connection between the offshoot and the mother plant and leaving the offshoot in place to dig later. This works with many plants. However, with farkleberry, the offshoot invariably dies Dan Barking Frogs Permaculture Center mailto:Permacltur@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Vaccinium arboreum - sparkleberry, farkleberry, tree huckleberry Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 16:26:47 -0700 From: Leo Manuel Vaccinium arboreum - Common Names:* sparkleberry, farkleberry, tree huckleberry * Family: *Ericaceae* (heath family) *Description* North America's largest blueberry, sparkleberry is a picturesque little tree or large shrub with flaking reddish bark, a leaning crooked trunk, and twisted contorted branches. Although usually around 8-10 ft (2.4-3.1 m) tall, sparkleberry can get up to 30 ft (9.1 m) tall with a similar spread. (The three co-champions, in South Carolina, Alabama, and Mississippi, are 24 ft (7.3 m), 29 ft (8.8 m), and 47 ft (14.3 m) tall, with spreads of 33 ft (10.1 m), 45 ft (13.7 m) and 30 ft (9.1 m), respectively.) The leaves are leathery, tardily deciduous, oval to nearly circular and 1-2 in (2.5-5.1 cm) long. They are dark green and shiny above, and paler with netlike veins beneath. The leaves persist on the tree for a year in the south, often turning rich purplish red in autumn; in colder regions, they drop off in winter. Sparkleberry blooms in late spring, with the fruits maturing in late summer. The white flowers are bell shaped with five lobes, about 1/3 in (0.5 cm) long, and arranged in profuse drooping clusters. The berries are shiny black, about 1/4 in (0.6 cm) in diameter. On the tip of each berry is a five-pointed star, the remains of the calyx. The berries often remain on the trees throughout winter. *Location* Sparkleberry occurs in dry woods, hammocks, along streamsides, on bluffs and in open forests, usually growing in the dappled shade of the subcanopy, from Virginia to southern Illinois, south to to East Texas and south-central Florida. *Culture* Sparkleberry is nearly unique among the blueberries in that it can tolerate, and even thrive, on neutral to calcareous soils, and doesn't demand the highly acidic conditions that other blueberries require. Nevertheless, it thrives on acidic soils, too. *Light:* Full sun to partial shade. *Moisture:* Sparkleberry is highly tolerant of droughts. *Hardiness:* USDA Zones 6 - 9. *Propagation:* Sparkleberry can be propagated from cuttings, but this is said to be difficult. Seeds need light to germinate, and should be sown on the surface of the potting medium. *Usage* Sparkleberry is a very attractive shrub that deserves to be used in more landscapes. Once established it needs no special treatment and grows quickly, flowering in just a year or two at quite a small size. Still, it would take decades for a sparkleberry to get over 10 ft (3.1 m) tall. Sparkleberry tolerates all manner of soils and positions in the landscape, and needs no supplemental watering. Grown in full sun, sparkleberry produces abundant masses of showy white flowers, then masses of equally attractive shiny black berries. The glossy foliage is pretty most of the year, and the contorted structure and exfoliating reddish bark are handsome in late winter. Indeed, for xeriscaping and "native plant" landscaping, sparkleberry is one of the most attractive woodland shrubs there is. Available from native plant nurseries, sparkleberry is most useful in the understory beneath large oaks or pines, in casual mixed borders, or in natural hedges. Sparkleberries are relished by all kinds of birds and wildlife. They can be eaten by people too, but they are bitter and not very good, and most references say they are inedible. (Former Arkansas governor, Frank White, earned the nickname, "Governor Farkleberry", after lamenting that, growing up, his family was so poor they had to eat farkleberries.) Extracts from the roots, bark and leaves have been used to treat diarrhea. *Features* The blueberry genus includes about 450 species of shrubs, vines and small trees found throughout the Northern Hemisphere from the Arctic Circle to tropical mountains. There are a few species also in southern Africa. Of the 40 or so blueberry species in North America, only sparkleberry (and sometimes deerberry, /V. stamineum/ ) grow to tree size. Domesticated selections of rabbiteye blueberry (/V. ashei/) are cultivated for their fruit in the southern U.S., and selections of highbush blueberry (/V. corombosum/), are grown farther north, although many authors consider these to be but variants of a single wide-ranging and highly variable species. The cranberry (/V. macrocarpon/) is a low-growing evergreen blueberry that is cultivated (and grows wild) in acidic wetlands in northern North America. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Seedless Cherimoya? Seedless Sugar Apple? Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 21:21:21 -0400 From: dracademia@aol.com Hi Leo, Do you have some information about seedless cherimoya or sugar apple? I was reading the Food Magazine from the Philippines and came across of a pack of exported cherimoyas from Australia which they were selling in China town, Manila. Thanks, Herminio mailto:dracademia@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Pitaya Now, and Mango Fruit of My Youth Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 20:29:38 -0700 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo! Just took another look at my wall-climbing pitaya this evening and counted 15 buds that seemingly popped up overnight. Guess the plant suddenly realized, it's summer and I'm supposed to bloom! A few smaller buds died on the plant - too hot, perhaps. Now if I can only get a few fruits out of this thing... Your "turpentine" mango trees sound a lot like the tree I planted and raised as a kid in Hollywood, Florida. Our mangoes did tend to grow in a sort of "S" shape and they had a strong taste of pine sap which I am guessing is where the "turpentine" designation comes from. These mangoes had beautiful skin coloration, sort of like a sunset with red, yellow and sometimes pink all mottled. Big seeds and sometimes not much flesh between the skin and pit. I've seen rather drab, green mangoes in our local produce store which don't look real tasty - though they probably are. J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Black Persimmon aka Black Sapote Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 07:54:08 -0700 (PDT) From: Eunice Messner To: marionjohnbrodie@msn.com Marion It is true that if you eat the fruit of black persimmon right off the tree you will not be impressed. But, mash the pulp with a little lime or orange juice and some whipped cream--you have an ersatz chocolate mousse! Super delicious. It is an espcially attractive evergreen tree. Try to keep it from growing tall or you won't be able to harvest the fruit. If you can find a grafted one that doesn't procuce seeds it is much more enjoyable. Eunice Messner mailto:eunicemessner3203@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Guarana - Lead to Sources? Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:06:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Bananaizme@aol.com To: Elise Philipp Elise You might want to give Jim West a try for guarana. Even if he does not have it listed he might still have it or know of a source. http://www.ecuadorexplorer.com/guaycuyacu/fruits_1.html Best of luck to you in your searches. William Visalia Ca mailto:Bananaizme@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Changing Over To Another Variety Of Cherimoya Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 07:58:14 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: PETER DIEWALD I forwarded your letter to David Silverstein who is our local pomegranate whiz. About the cherimoya, my grafting experience is limited. My tendency would be to cut the Dr. White back severely and to graft (possibly several varieties) onto the emerging sprouts. This may take an extra year, but it is so much easier to graft onto the smaller diameter wood. Some considerations: You may want to cut back only half of the tree, as the shock to cutting all of it could cause serious problems. Another consideration is time of year to do such drastic pruning. I believe that at the right time (I'm not sure when that is) you could safely cut the whole tree back. Horticordially, Leo PETER DIEWALD wrote: > Dear Leo, > > I have had a "White" variety of cherimoya for about fifteen > years. They produce fruit only with hand pollination or so I > have been told (and is true to my own experience). The fruit > is huge and tastes fine, but I have now tasted several > varieties that I like much better. My question is this, what > time of year should I stump this cherimoya and graft on a > scionwood of lets say," El Bumpo", a variety that I have grown > from seed acquired through the crfg seedbank? The tree has > been kept back to around ten feet tall, but this time of year > it grows new branches like crazy. I have had more luck with > cleft grafting small branches that grow out of a stump. This > method has worked well with Tropical Guavas. I do not want to > jeopardize my mature tree at this point. I have seen grafting > done right into a stump by slipping the bark back and inserting > an arrow shaped scion into the flap. Please give me some idea > of when and how I can safely manage to accomplish my goal. > Thank You, Kathy and Peter Diewald. > > Here is another question: Do you have any idea who brought in > the many unusual pomegranate scionwood to the last Orange > County Scionwood Exchange? This person went to the trouble of > typing full length sheets of info on each of the selections > he/she brought in to the exchange. I was so excited to get the > huge green fruit with huge red kernels inside, that I neglected > to remember or write down the name, other than it started with > the letter "K" and was from Turkey. It looked as if it were > from a university or research center. > > Thanks again Leo, kmd ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Our Arizona Summer - What Rare Fruit Grows Here? Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 23:22:56 +0000 From: hawksong@att.net Dear Leo and Betty, I came across your site when looking for information on rare fruit, and would like to ask you a question. I live in Arizona and in the summer it can be up to 110 degrees out here. I have been to San Diego, and it is relatively cooler, but does it get that hot there too? If so, how are you able to grow these fruits? I know where to get the seeds and I would love to know how I could possibly grow them. I have attempted planting more ordinary fruits before and they all wilted and died. Please help me figure this out! Thanks so much for your time. -Victoria mailto:hawksong@att.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Our Arizona Summer - What Rare Fruit Grows Here? Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 17:03:31 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: hawksong@att.net CC: Chris Marshall I suggest you contact Chris Marshall mailto:christopher.marshall@att.net who lives in Arizona and does grow rare fruit. We seldom get above the 90s, and not often even get into the 90s. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Our Arizona Summer - What Rare Fruit Grows Here? Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 12:51:42 +0000 From: christopher.marshall@att.net To: hawksong@att.net Dear Victoria, Leo forwarded your question to me. The answer is that you can grow a lot of different fruits in Arizona, including some rare subtropical fruits. Where in Arizona do you live? A good strting point would be to join one of the two rare fruit growers chapters in Arizona, where there are many knowledgable growers glad to share there experience. I am the newsletter editor for the Tucson chapter. We meet the third Thursday of each month at 7PM at Bookman's Used Books at Grant and Campbell. There is another chapter in Phoenix. The best person to contact concerning their meeting schedule is Dick Gross. His email is rkgross3@cox.net. Another good idea is to join our parent group, California Rare Fruit Growers. The website is http://www.crfg.org/. Seeds of many of the commoner fruits are available on the web from a variety of vendors. For the rarer fruits, many of us have networks of fellow fruit growers all over the world we exchange seeds with. The best way to find these growers is to join groups like Leo's Rare Fruit Newsletter and to write to anyone who expresses interest in sharing seeds. Most plant people are happy to share but remember, sharing works both ways. Hope this begins to answer your question. If this answer raises new questions, feel free to write. Chris Marshall ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Just Come Back From Shenzhen And Hong Kong Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 06:18:44 -0700 From: William Chow Hi Leo, The most popular fruit in Shenzhen, China is watermelon. I saw a store called Watermelon Depot. All the restaurants automatically give you watermelon for dessert after the dinner. One thing that is surprising to me is that dragon fruit is everywhere. It is really in every fruit market. It is white flesh and the price is low compared to peach and longan. The fruit salad they served me on the airplane has watermelon and dragon fruit in it. Cheers ! William mailto:wchow@sd.znet.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit Date: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 20:06:14 -0700 From: Frank Filippone To: 'Leo Manuel' About 4 years ago, we visited with you at your house. You gave me my DragonFruit, and explained some of the growing requirements. Tonight, our Dragonfruit bloomed. We have 5 blooms on the plant. At the time you gave us the plant, I think you told me the fruit was self pollinating. Even so, we have 1 plant, and different blooms. I went out and cut off some of the pollen bearing parts from 1 bloom, and swished them around the other blooms. Not knowing anything about plants reproductive "habits", is there more I should do to get my plant to set fruit? I can not tell you how excited we are. We have been nurturing this plant in a pot for 4 years, and this is its first blossoming. Thank you for helping us Frank Filippone mailto:red735i@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dragon Fruit Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 19:09:16 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Frank Filippone Hi Frank There are dozens of "pollen-bearing parts" in each flower. I'd cut most of those (I store them in the refrigerator for up to four days in a half-size ziplock bag.) Then, take a half-dozen or so and "swish them around the top of the ovary tube, and discard those. If you have more than one flower open, for each one, take another half- dozen of the pollen anthers and brush them also on the top of the ovary tube. There will be enough pollen anthers to fertilize quite a few flowers. You can also use some epiphyllum flower pollen, if you aren't sure whether the plant is self-fertile. The pollen is almost worthless after about 5 days, unless extraordinary steps are taken to freeze-dry the pollen, which takes specialized equipment. Take care, Leo Frank Filippone wrote: > > About 4 years ago, we visited with you at your house. You gave me my DragonFruit, and explained some of the growing requirements. > > Tonight, our Dargonfruit bloomed. we have 5 blooms on the plant. > > At the time you gave us the plant, I think you told me the fruit was self pollinating. Even so, we have 1 plant, and > different blooms. I went out and cut off some of the pollen bearing parts from 1 bloom, and swished them around the other blooms. > > Not knowing anything about plants reproductive "habits", is there more I should do to get my plant to set fruit? > > I can not tell you how excited we are. We have been nurturing this plant in a pot for 4 years, and this is its first > blossoming.. > > Thank you for helping us > > Frank Filippone mailto:red735i@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Dragon Fruit Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 19:16:20 -0700 From: Frank Filippone Thanks Leo. I guess I did good. I had read that the flowers were only out for 1 night. We have sen them in all 3 stages. Not quite yet, In bloom, and spent bloom. It does happen fast. If I get lucky enough to pollinate them correctly, when should we be able to pick the fruit? Is there a way to tell if it is ripe? Thanks again. Frank Filippone mailto:red735i@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dragon Fruit Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:11:36 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Frank Filippone Hi Frank It depends on the time of year. Flowers that bloomed in early summer will probably have fruit ready 5-6 weeks later. Flowers blooming now may yield fruit ready to harvest a few days later. I usually don't get mine harvested when they should be harvested, and the sugar level will be consequently less, and the seeds will swell (and may even begin to sprout.) I'd keep track of the date each one blooms, and begin to check for readiness about 5 weeks later. If fully colored, cut one, and if it is properly ripe, harvest others at the same number of weeks later. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Welcome to the 2006 Festival of Fruit Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 18:49:59 -0700 From: Welcome to the 2006 Festival of Fruit, September 5-9 in San Luis Obispo, California. We are excited you are coming to our Festival and want to make it as easy as possible for you to find us and enjoy all the activities. 1. We still have space available in most of our tours so if you wish to participate and have not made a request or heard from us contact Marvin Daniels at 805-773-9311 or via email at marvnpet@aol.com 2. If you were interested in the Wine Country Tours and/or the Nursery List, remember to download copies before you leave home so you can stop and enjoy along the way. The site is located at http://www.crfg-central.org/2006_Festival/festival_2006_home. html 3. Locations to find us Thursday, Friday and Saturday for all the official activities Thursday, Sept 7 from 3-6pm: Opening reception with registration and hospitality at the Sands Motel and Conference Center 1930 Monterey, San Luis Obispo. Monterey is the north most exit from 101 in San Luis Obispo. Come and pick up your registration and program materials, enjoy some refreshments, say hello to fellow CRFG members, participate in the big citrus tree drawing (30 trees to be given away!!). Then we all go downtown to Farmer's Market for shopping, dinner and sight seeing!!! Friday, Sept. 8 from 8-10am: Crops Unit (Building #17. Follow the CRFG signs) on Cal Poly Campus where we will be gathering for an eye-opening cup of java and for tours of blueberries, organic farm, composting, campus, the Cal Poly Conservatory, and student fruit tree sales. Registration and hospitality will continue at this site. If you did not pick up your registration packet on Thursday, you will need to return to your car with your parking pass. If you did not request a parking pass, you will need to stop at the Grand Ave kiosk or the Highland Ave automated parking machine and purchase one. You must have a parking pass on Friday. Saturday is free. Get a bite of lunch on or off campus and be in the Chumash Auditorium by 12:55pm. Friday, Sept. 8 from 11:15-5pm: Registration and hospitality will be in the lobby of the University Union outside Chumash Auditorium (Building #65. Follow the CRFG signs) Afternoon program begins at 1:00pm sharp. Friday, Sept. 8 from 5:30- 8:00pm: Registration and hospitality will be in the Cal Poly Leaning Pine Arboretum at the top of Via Carta behind the Ornamental Horticulture area. BBQ and special dinner speakers will happen at 6:00pm. NO BBQ TICKETS WILL BE SOLD ON SITE. Saturday, Sept. 9 from 7:30am till end of the day: Registration and hospitality will be on the steps of the Alan A. Erhart Agriculture building (Building #10 corner of N. Perimeter & Via Carta). Speakers, vendors, photo sessions, door prizes and too many other things to mention. See details in program you will be receiving. Sunday, Sept 10 on-your-own nurseries or wineries or See Canyon apple touring or sign up for Central Coast Trolley Company Wine Tour at their vendor booth on Saturday. We believe we are offering the best Festival of Fruit ever and we want you to think so as well by the time it is over! Central Coast Chapter Rare Fruit Growers Evelyn Ruehr Registrar mailto:beardtropics@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Wanted In San Diego Area: Rollinia Mucosa Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2006 22:34:09 -0700 From: "david.crfg-sd" To: Packard Clan Okay, Lisa. Go to the main CRFG website, and look at the list of member nurseries. Try Exotica, California Tropicals, and perhaps Quang Ong in San Diego. Also, go to Rarefruit.com and sign up for Leo's newsletter. I'm copying your question over there, so someone knowledgeable can weigh in. Best of luck. David Silverstein ______________________________________________ From: Packard Clan [mailto:pclan@san.rr.com] Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 11:38 PM To: 'north_san_diego@crfg.org' Subject: Rollinia Mucosa Hi, My name is Lisa Packard. I was telling my five year old daughter of my favorite fruit I ate when I lived in the Caribbean (Rollinia Mucosa). It took me a long time to find out the name by researching photos and now I'm afraid I won't find one for Danielle and I to experience together. Please tell me someone in San Diego (or somewhere in Southern California) has, sells or is growing the actual fruit. I do not have a green house, or a green thumb, so seeds won't do it for me. I am on a quest. Please help me. Gratefully, Lisa Packard mailto:pclan@san.rr.com (858) 248-1940 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Soil Key to Controlling Weeds Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 06:28:34 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ The fight against weeds is getting dirty. At Fort Collins, Colo., scientists with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) are turning to soil to promote weed control. Soil variability, an important factor in treating weed-infested fields, can be gauged by measuring different soils' electrical conductivity (EC). A soil's EC assesses how easily it allows a current to pass through it. Soils with a higher EC generally have more clay and organic matter and require more herbicide. Farmers can use EC to create herbicide application maps, allowing them to adjust application rates based on variations within the soil. This, in turn, reduces the risk of excessive herbicide leaching while maintaining effectiveness. Herbicide selection is an equally important aspect of weed control. Dale L. Shaner, a plant physiologist in the Water Management Research Unit at Fort Collins, has shown that atrazine, a widely used herbicide, sometimes breaks down rapidly in fields where it has been used for many years. This could be the result of bacteria which reduce the herbicide to its elemental parts. Herbicide degradation makes weed control difficult, so farmers have to spend more time and money to apply additional herbicide. An inexpensive field kit could help farmers and crop consultants identify whether fields are at risk before they apply atrazine. Shaner and his colleagues are investigating whether test strips used to analyze water for atrazine's presence could be modified to test the soil. Though a field kit is still in the early stages of development, Shaner believes it could help reduce herbicide overdose. Read more about this research in the August 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/aug06/weeds0806.htm ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200609A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - September 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200609B.txt ________________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Second Annual Festival Of Pitaya - October 7 Get details in Edgar Valdivia's letter below. Several of us attended last year's first pitaya festival at Paul Thomson's home. Lots of mango fruit beginning to ripen - mostly Early Gold. Coming later will be Thomson, Kensington, Kent, Keitt, Peggy (Winter), Turpentine, and several seedlings. I won't have room for all of the seeds in the hotbed! Please write about your gardening pleasures and pains. Also, let us know what you have found on the internet or in nurseries. <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> None this time <><><> Readers Write <><><> Blueberries In Hawaii Timnovida@aol.com Soil Key to Controlling Weeds-My Experience Richard Frost Farkleberry again Permacltur@aol.com Mexican Avocado Pollination Bassem Samaan Dragon Fruit Report, Back Hong Kong William Chow Festival Of Pitaya October 7, Cal Poly Pomona Leo Manuel To: "Edgar Valdivia" Festival Of Pitaya October 7, Cal Poly Pomona "Edgar Valdivia" Seduction by fig dracademia@aol.com Information on Avocados, some unusual varieties, etc. Allan Bredeson Got an Ant Problem? Use Aspartame Leo Manuel Medjol Date Seeds Wanted Daniel Roberts NO September S.D. North County CRFG Meeting Leo Manuel Dragon Fruit Ron Hebshie "Peron" - Fruit From Southern Mexico - Information Sought Liduvina Avelar CRFG San Diego City Chapter Newsletter September 28, 2006 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Protecting the Prickly Pear Cactus in its Native Habitat ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> None this time <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Blueberries In Hawaii Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 00:45:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Timnovida@aol.com Leo and all, Warm weather blueberries grow well in Hawaii. Attached is a picture of my bush sitting on the driveway. Fruits are large, very sweet, and 3/4" in diameter. A friend bought me a small plant after I oozed envy upon seeing hers. Should I pinch the tips? The plant was imported by Sandy and Everett Pang's Nursery and sold at Wal Mart. My Auntie Jane and I are going to Thailand's Expo in Chiang Mai, see you there! http://www.royalfloraexpo.com/index.asp Laurie Hawaii mailto:Timnovida@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Soil Key to Controlling Weeds-My Experience Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 22:12:32 -0700 From: Richard Frost Leo, From my own tests of soil variability on plants, I can tell you that common spurge will sprout (on its own, unintended) in soils with pH ranging from 3.5 to 9.5 and with composition ranging from sand to peat (that's 13 times 5 planting beds). The same holds true for crab grass. Consequentially, I do not believe that soil composition is effective in controlling some of the more common weeds. - Richard Frost mailto:frost@san.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Farkleberry again Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 09:01:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Permacltur@aol.com Hi Leo: Thanks for the profile on farkleberry. Much of it confirms my spotty observations and fills in a great deal. On one point I'd like to add some perspective: the profile implies that the shrub is slow-growing. Well, maybe compared to kudzu. But compared to other blueberries, it is very vigorous, and it imparts its vigor to blueberries with a vengence. Four or five foot whips are common on blueberry grafts! Of course cutting them back gives me more scion wood for grafting more farkleberries. Let me underscore that the drought tolerance is very important to us here, though we live at the edge of a marsh. While blueberries require a lot of attention to get established in our rapidly draining sand-for-soil, farkleberries don't even notice droughts. The only watering they get is to fill fruit, as this occurs in spring which is our driest season. I'd like to know the source of that profile, as it was very complete and useful. Also, if you are going to lift that much copyrighted material, it would be good to at least give credit. Dan mailto:Permacltur@aol.com http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Mexican Avocado Pollination Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 12:56:37 -0500 From: Bassem Samaan I rencently bought an avocado from Devine, Texas. It was a small nursery dedicated to Mexican avocado called "Devine Avocado". The variety I got is called "Opal." I wasn't able to find much info on this variety. It's possibly just a local variety in southern texas. Anyone have info on this variety? The grower mentioned that I only need one tree for fruit set. I understand avocados are either type A or type B, but he said Mexican avocados are self-fertile. Is this true? I live in Pennsylvania where temperature go below zero, but i'm planning to grow it in a container and kept in a greenhouse. How well would it grow for me in a container? Mexican varieties are usually more cold hardy than other avocadoes, the temperature won't drop below 40 in the greenhouse. I hope it can survive well. Thanks in advance for the tips. Bass in Bethlehem, Pa mailto:bassem@gardener.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit Report, Back From Hong Kong Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 15:07:02 -0700 From: William Chow Hi Leo, I went to Hong Kong and Shenzhen for a business trip 2 weeks ago. Here is my report on dragon fruit. I was in Hong Kong 1985 and never saw or heard of dragon fruit. 21 years has made a big difference. You can buy dragon fruit it every supermarket and fruit stand in Shenzhen and in Hong Kong. All I saw was white flesh dragon fruit about the size of a grapefruit. These fruits are about 1 pound each. The price is medium. It is more expensive than watermelon and apple. It is cheaper than mango, cherimoya and longan. I saw longan trees all over the hillside just like I see avocado trees all over Escondido. I did not see a single dragon fruit plant. On the way back from Hong Kong, Cathay Pacific airline served us a dinner with a fruit salad. They have the white flesh dragon fruit in the fruit salad mixed in with watermelon and cantaloupe. This showed me the dragon fruit really is very common in Hong Kong now. Since it can go from non-existing to very common in Hong Kong, I wonder if the same thing can happen in San Diego or Florida. In San Diego, if you can find the dragon fruit, they sell for $6 a pound, twice as much as cherimoya. The price is just an indication of supply and demand. They have been growing longan in Canton for at least a few thousand years. With 20 years of growing, the dragon fruit is clearly easier to crop than the longan. The technique to get a high yield with the dragon fruit is clearly rather easy to learn. Judging from the price, the dragon fruit is a plant that is more productive than mango and less productive than watermelon. I saw a store called "Watermelon Depot". They sell tons of watermelon in the summer. I asked them what they sell in the winter, apparently any fruit they can find. I also saw a main street lined with mango trees. The tree produce no fruit. But it is a tough tree to withstand all the smog and abuse of a street tree. Every restaurant automatically serve you watermelon after a dinner in Shenzhen. They don't do that in Hong Kong. Please let me know if you have a pitahaya festival this year. Happy Labor Day ! William mailto:wchow@earthlite.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Festival Of Pitaya October 7, Cal Poly Pomona Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 20:18:56 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: "Edgar Valdivia" Hi Edgar I have been gone most of the day from home, but got your message. Festival Of Pitaya October 7, Cal Poly Pomona - Right? Are you going to post it in the Yahoo Newsgroup PitayaFruit? Have you had lots of blooms the past week? I have, and some that hadn't bloomed before, such as H. triangularis and a hybrid of H. lemarei X H. u. The last one has an unusual pale pink flower. There must have been over two dozen flowers during the past few days. Thanks for putting the Festival together. It must have taken a lot of your time. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Festival Of Pitaya October 7, Cal Poly Pomona Date: Fri, 09 Sep 2006 From: "Edgar Valdivia" Now that the pitayas are in season and all pitaya growers are having blossoms and expecting fruit, once again we will be having a festival. As we did last year, all interested growers are invited to bring their best pitayas to test the sugar content, size and flavor. This year we will have the Festival on October 7th at Cal Poly Pomona in the Agrascape Building (near Los Angeles.) The address is 3801 W. Temple Ave, in Pomona California. To go to the Agrascape Building, exit the 57 Freway at Temple Ave west, you will make a left turn at University Dr. The building is next to the Cal Poly Farm Store. It is a great place for our gathering. There is even a set up for showing movies and presenting lectures. The program is free to all attendents. We will have speakers, tasting and a visit to a pitaya plantaion close to the building. The program will begin at 10 am. If you need more information send me an email or contact me by phone. People interest in the pitaya from other states or countries are also welcome to attend. You will have a chance to taste and see the wonderful pitayas we are growing in California (USA) California has many wonderful tourist attractions. I'd like to encourage growers from other countries to organize this type of Festival in your area. This is a great way to know what we are growing, how to improve the product and exchange ideas between growers. My email address is: mailto:adgarv@lafn.org or mailto:pat_erati@yahoo.com My phone number is: 805 584-6244 Regards, Edgar Valdivia - Coordinator mailto:adgarv@lafn.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Seduction by fig Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 14:49:41 -0700 (PDT) From: dracademia@aol.com -------------------- Seduction by fig -------------------- Now that so many Americans are discovering its pleasures, farmers are sending more fresh fruit to market and developing delicious -- and gorgeous -- new varieties. By Russ Parsons Times Staff Writer September 6 2006 It is almost impossible to describe a fresh fig without veering into pornography. The skin is nearly human in its tenderness. And the pulp within is as luscious as some exotic cross between fruit jam and honey. You don't so much bite into a fig as engage it in a long, sweet kiss. The complete article can be viewed at: http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-fig6sep06,0,2086836. story?coll=la-home-food ------------------------------------------------ Subject: info on Avocados, some unusual varieties, etc. Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 16:32:04 -1000 From: Allan Bredeson Interesting reading about avocados, different (some unusual) varieties, etc. Allan mailto:alinkona@hawaiiantel.net Avocados in California branch back to Guatemala and Mexico. (The West Indies is another source, but its varieties favor moister Florida.) Mexico's small black avocados Ñ the Dickinson is an example Ñ were the first to find favor but were quickly usurped by the mighty Fuerte and Lyon and Anaheim, all butterfly green and much prettier in the fruit bowl. Then in 1926, the Microsoft of avocados was born. A hobbyist in La Habra Heights produced a new variety, naming it after himself. The Hass (rhymes with "pass") was a prolific producer that self-pollinated, its knobby black skin easy to peel, its flesh rich in the oil that gives an avocado its flavor punch. It was a runaway hit with growers and eaters. But even as commercial farming became beholden to the Hass, the whole Hass and nothing but the Hass, avocado scientists and hobbyists were coming up with new varieties and preserving old ones so that, on the sprawling acres of the University of California's South Coast Research and Extension Center in Irvine, you can now see more than 150 species. The long hallways of trees at the station are as familiar to volunteer Julie Frink as her own home, some occupants more dear than others. "Every tree has its fault, and every tree has something special about it," she says. But why so many? Why not stop at Hass? Because no one knows, she says, with an Old Testament intonation, what plague is around the corner; a super thrips or mighty mite or some other ungodly pest that will take out one of the state's most important crops. "We're banking for the unknown," she says. Besides, there are trees here that would be perfect urban dwellers, starting with the Holiday, which grows to about 12 feet Ñ practically a dwarf in avocado-dom. Its waterfall canopy makes a perfect hide-out for child or adult. No wonder Frink has nicknamed it the Clubhouse. And can you believe the size of the fruit on this little guy? Green globes bigger than a fist. For decades scientists had hoped to develop a true dwarf avocado that would give the teeny-tiny citruses Ñ the new garden gnomes Ñ some competition. Never happened. There is a tree called the dwarf Littlecado, but it's something of a misnomer: It sprouts even higher than the Holiday, about 15 feet. At least it's a wasp-waisted 10 feet wide. Its flavor isn't as tasty as the equally svelte Reed, which Frink recommends as an alternative to Italian cypress for creating a hedge. After touting the Reed, Frink zigzags over to a Nimlioh, whose branches arch out like Chinese fireworks and whose fruit is as large and round as a small cantaloupe. Eric Focht, a research associate from UC Riverside, the Harvard of avocado science, has given this specimen a buzz cut. "We don't always follow the pruning guidelines," he says, but the fruit-heavy tree doesn't seem at all offended. Although retail nurseries carry the Reed, Littlecado and Holiday, they won't have the Nimlioh. Same goes for the Helen, a busty green fruit that peels as easily as a banana, and the Queen, with fruit like squash that can weigh in at 2 1/2 pounds. Nor the Jan Boyce, the "connoisseur's avocado," says Frink, who's been showing off these trees not to frustrate but to preview what will be at the Fullerton Arboretum's Green Scene sale in April, a rare chance to get the rarer trees. Frink struggles to put into words how much she cares for the Jan Boyce. "There's nothing like it," she says. Focht cuts one open, revealing the tiny seed, the size of a large marble. The Jan Boyce, Frink says, is happiest if left huge. The same goes for the beloved Fuerte, and at the two-story, 1911 Carpinteria farmhouse that Andy and Denise Powell bought 16 years ago, you'll find one happy tree. Their kids climbed all over the giant, and Andy installed a treehouse, respectfully securing it with ropes instead of nails. The tree has given them tons of fruit, though at times they have wondered if the land would look better without the tree. "It would sure change the look," Andy says. Which brings us back to the quandary with avocados. They can be the SUVs of landscaping, heavyweights in height and girth. They can be altered to meet the times, but go too far and they won't do the job they were born for. San Luis Obispo grower Dave Righetti has a solution that harks back to how early avocado fanciers shared the wealth. At the end of a packed street at Carpinteria's annual avocado festival in October, he's at a table laden with avocados you'll never see at Ralphs: shapely green geese with curved necks, babies as large as softballs, little darklings that are the antiques of avocados. Righetti isn't fazed that the commercial industry considers these varieties Ñ the Ryan, the giant Nabal (which can weigh 2 pounds), the ancient Dickinson Ñ unmarketable. He's catering to the curious, just as he indulges his own curiosity. >From 1900 to the 1950s, backyard growers throughout the Los Angeles Basin were enthusiastically planting any avocado seeds they could get their hands on, he says. He's got the same spirit, sometimes growing as many as 20 types to sell at the farmers markets in San Luis Obispo and to restaurants that prize the fruit. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Got an Ant Problem? Use Aspartame Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 19:59:30 -0700 From: Leo Manuel For all the dire health problems associated with aspartame -- the worst of them being cancer ... "anything-but-sugar" substitute may have an ideal purpose to exist, not as a food additive, but as an ant poison Already aware of aspartame's origins as a toxic chemical, a health-conscious consumer with an ant problem emptied one packet of aspartame in the corner of each of her bathrooms two years ago. The "sweet" solution worked brilliantly, as she's seen no signs of carpenter ants crawling around for the past year. Aspartame may be just the thing for getting rid of fire ants (impervious to many poisons) too, although this solution takes a bit more effort. Initially, fire ants ignored their aspartame treat until a light rain moistened it. After the rain, however, the fire ants came back with a vengeance, taking the aspartame back to the mound by the hundreds. Within two days, any evidence that fire ants existed at all, save for an empty mound, vanished. No mystery aspartame works like a pesticide, as the asparctic acid contained in this toxic product is a well-documented excitotoxin that causes specific brain cells to become excessively excited to the point they quickly die , just as both kinds of ants did. Makes you wonder if aspartame is a far safer, better alternative to getting rid of lawn and home pests than the average toxic pesticides < http://www.mercola.com/2006/aug/15/ the_safety_of_inert_components_in_pesticides_questioned.htm > found at your neighborhood hardware store ... Idaho Observer June 2006 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Medjol Date Seeds Wanted Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2006 15:39:06 +0000 From: Daniel Roberts Hello, My name is Danny Roberts. I live in Quito, Ecuador. Just outside of Quito I have a very small farm where I grow avocados, limes, oranges, tangerines, apples, chirimoya, taxo, maricuya, freijoa, and plums. While cutting up some dates for a fruitcake I found a seed. I planted it and it grew. I'd like to have lots more. Can anyone turn me on to somewhere where I can buy some medljol date seeds. Thank you, Danny Roberts mailto:roberts_daniel@hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: NO September S.D. North County CRFG Meeting Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 08:47:35 -0700 From: Harry Nickerson NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Webmaster: Ben Pierce Ben Pierce, Chair 760-744-4716 mailto:ncsdcrfg@cox.net Oct 20 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 V.C.ÓSkipÓ Vint M.D. Ð Creating plant and tree labels that last Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College but NO MEETING SEPTEMBER August Meeting-Jim Bathgate spoke on fruits for health. Some of the reference books were ÒChina StudyÓ, ÒColor CodeÓ, and ÒEat to LiveÓ. Some of the best fruits and vegetables for health were given. The list included: strawberries, blueberries, tomatoes, red bell peppers, pomegranates, oranges, mango, pink grapefruit, persimmon, carrots, sweet potatoes, winter squash, kiwi, avocado, kale, concord grapes, purple cabbage, eggplant, and watercress. An anecdotal story related that a woman took 8 oz of sour cherry juice daily for her arthritis. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $8.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30 /yr and is required. Chapter dues run from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. Send chapter dues: Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92008 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dragon Fruit Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 13:02:06 -0700 From: Ron Hebshie A co-worker of mine just informed me that GelsonÕs has started selling dragon fruit grown here in California. I was shocked, not only that a store was selling it locally but that it was also California grown. I fell in love with dragon fruit on my two trips to Thailand and would love some information on ordering your book. Ron mailto:rhebshie@ngtv.com [The cost of the book is $20 at our home, and $25 when shipped within the U.S. Overseas cost is $30. More information will be sent on request. -Leo mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: "Peron" Fruit From S. Mexico - Information Sought. Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 02:55:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Liduvina Avelar I am from a region in Mexico that is close to Guadalajar and as a child my grandfather grew a fruit called "Peron". I have never been able to find it here in San Jose California. Do you know where I might be able to find such a plant. Do you know what its latin name is? I would be interested in buying a tree. Thanks Liduvina Avelar mailto:liduvina.avelar@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ CRFG San Diego City Chapter Newsletter September 28, 2006 General Meeting: 7:00 Ð 7:20 pm Rm. 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park, San Diego CA Exotic Fruit Ice Creams: 8:20 Ð 8:50 pm Chair: David Silverstein mailto:chair@crfgsandiego.org For membership, please mail your application and check to CRFG, San Diego Chapter C/O Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 The View from the Chair - David Silverstein IÕm reviewing a new book called ÒPomegranate Roads,Ó by Dr. Gregory Levin, a Russian botanist who built the huge pomegranate collection at the Turkmenistan Experiment Station in Garagala. IÕll have a complete book review next month. But in case you are interested, here is the website of the publisher: www.floreantpress.com/pomegranate_roads.htm. Program: Mango - Fruit of the Year A panel discussion of varieties, culture and lore followed by exotic fruit ice creams from across the southern border. Ice Cream is free to members. We request a $5 donation from guests. ÒCome for the Meeting, & Stay for the Ice Cream!Ó Exotic Fruit Ice Cream Let me tell you why these ice creams are so special, first of all, they are not your typical ice creams. These are gourmet ice cream; they are and manufactured in a very unique and secret process. Regular ice creams are made from materials such as vegetable or animal oils and/or fats mixed with artificial fruit flavorings and colors, as well as chemical products such as stabilizers or preservatives, having a final ÒfoamyÓ texture, very light, which are preserved at a low temperature, around -20¡C. An ice cream is a delicate chemical product to store, once it starts melting, that special texture is lost. Also, it is very difficult to mix with fresh fruits, which accelerate the decomposition. The mixture with the fruits gives the product a very short shelf life and as a result, not commercially profitable. What we eat as commercial ice creams have their fruit processed (frozen or semicooked) to the degree that the natural texture and natural flavor is lost. This is similar to what happened to canned fruit. Here is where Tepoznieves ice cream comes in to play; they developed a process which mixes the fresh fruits with natural products such as milk, goat milk, sweetened with honey or natural juices from the fruit, at a temperature that creates fine crystals in the fruit without destroying the texture of the fruit. When you taste Tepoznieves ice cream you can immediately tell the difference, the flavor is that of a fresh fruit and the fruit you find mixed in the ice cream has the fine texture which a fresh fruit should have. Some of the ice cream flavors that weÕre planning to have are guanabana, sapote (mamey), black sapote, lychee, maracuya (passion fruit), pitahaya, avocado, cherimoya, and of course, mango. Other exotic flavors that we will be tasting are the Rose Petals ice cream, Mahona (rose petals, two types of chocolate, raisins, and almonds), Thousand Flowers (cream, almonds, and herbal tea), and Poblana (coffee, sweet potato, and BaileyÕs Irish cream). For those counting calories, weÕll have no sugar added "Tepozteco's Kiss" - citric juices with chopped fruit. You will be delighted in tasting such delicacies as: Symphony of the sea (papaya, cherry, fig, cream, almond), Angel's Kiss (mamey, pine nut, strawberry and cherry), Oraci—n a los Muertos (pumpkin, tejocote, sugar cane sweet, potato and sempazhuchill flower) and Cappuccino (with chunks of cinnamon)! This year we will try something different - some vegetable ice creams, such as celery, beet and lettuce, and some ice creams with alcohol: wined strawberry, coconut ice cream with gin, fig with Mezcal, and, of course, I would not be forgiven by Helen Skeels if I do not bring her favorite: tequila ice creamÉYummmmm. Many people have asked me how I bring them across the borderÉ very carefullyÉ not because theyÕre illegal, but because, there is a long wait at the border. The ice creams should not be allowed to melt or to be frozen below the -20¡C (which would be the case if I put them in contact with dry ice. --- by Jose M. Gallegos Another Successful Plant Sale! Our annual plant sale has come and gone again. Amazing! This was the third year. Overall it was a great success. We took in $1,635.00. That is quite comparable to our previous two sales. Basically, if one large consignor gave us a percentage equal to what he gave last year, we actually would have set a record by a few dollars. Still though, it was an odd sale, very different from last year. Last year we had a big article in the Union Tribune which brought in huge numbers of people. September Garden Tips-This is the last month of the growing season for tropicals, so itÕs also the last month when they can be fertilized, if necessary. Tropicals need to slow down in October and then harden off for winter during November. If you live in a largely frost-free zone you can give them a final feeding of fast-acting fertilizers, such as Terr-O-Vite, early in the month to help them increase strength during this warm month and to eliminate any signs of nitrogen deficiency. But donÕt fertilize with a slow-release product. The idea is to strengthen the plants without triggering soft growth later in fall, when it could be nipped by frost. ¥Fertilize: Wait until the end of September to give trees their last fertilization, if necessary. ¥Continue to remove weeds. Crab grass can become a problem at this time. ¥Irrigation system: Verify that your irrigation system is properly working. ¥Citrus & Avocado trees: Verify that each tree is receiving the right amount of water especially the citrus and avocados, allowing them to go dry and then over water them will cause the fruit to split. ¥ Watch for brown rot on your citrus. If citrus is infected, spray now with a garden fungicide. Pick all the ripe fruits before spraying. Cut any diseased or dead growth. Spray the fungicide all over the ground under the tree and up into the branches, paying particular attention to the lowest 3Õ of growth. Spray in the early morning or evening to prevent burn. Water the trees well before spraying. ¥Keep an eye on your fruit trees for drought stress. ¥Plant cool-season vegetables. ¥Lawns: Maintain regular feeding of warmseason lawns, such as Bermuda and zoysia, but hold off on fertilizing cool-season grasses, such as ryegrass, bluegrass, and fescue, for another month. ¥ Plant tropicals in coastal zones: such as bougainvillea, hibiscus, lantana, Natal plum (Carissa macrocarpa), philodendron, and tropical flowering trees, such as Chinese flame tree (Koelreuteria bipinnata or K. elegans), floss silk tree (Chorisia speciosa), and Hong Kong orchid tree (Bauhinia blakeana). ¥ Divide clumping perennials when they become overgrown and stop blooming. (Source: CRFG SD website, and Pat WelshÕs Southern California Gardening) <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Protecting the Prickly Pear Cactus in its Native Habitat Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 09:38:15 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr ___________________________________________ Scientists with the Agricultural Research Service (ARS) in Georgia and Florida are working to control a moth that is threatening an important cactus that is native to the southern United States and Mexico. Ironically, the South American cactus moth was used to control the spread of the same cactus species in Australia in the 1800s. The prickly pear cactus, as the species is called, is not native to Australia but was an invasive pest in that country. Then, in 1957, the moth was introduced to the island of Nevis in the West Indies, by government request, to control the same cactus, which was also an invasive species on that Caribbean island. Eventually, the cactus moth spread to surrounding islands, landing in the Florida Keys in 1989. Since then, the moth has moved along both Atlantic and Gulf coasts and now threatens the prickly pear cactus in its native habitat in the southern United States and Mexico, where it is grown as a specialty food crop. Entomologist James Carpenter, in the ARS Crop Protection and Management Research Unit at Tifton, Ga., has been studying the use of the sterile insect technique (SIT) to control the cactus moth in the United States. Carpenter and cooperators are mass-rearing the moth on an artificial diet, irradiating male moths to induce sterility and then releasing the males to mate with wild female moths. Using this approach, the resulting offspring are infertile, thus reducing the target insect population. Carpenter is working with entomologist Stephen Hight at the ARS Center for Medical, Agricultural and Veterinary Entomology in Gainesville, Fla., colleagues at other U.S. Department of Agriculture agencies, and researchers at Florida A&M University. The SIT trial evaluation involves three sites: Dauphin Island, Ala.; Okaloosa Island, Fla.; and St. George Island, Fla. Dauphin Island is receiving sterile insects and undergoing a sanitation procedure. Okaloosa Island is only being sanitized, and St. George Island is being left unchanged. Sanitation involves the removal of cactus pads infested with moth larvae and pupae, and removal of egg sticks. The combination of SIT and sanitation has been very successful in reducing the cactus moth population on Dauphin Island to near non-detectable levels. Read more about the research in the September 2006 issue of Agricultural Research magazine, available online at: http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/sep06/moth0906.htm ARS is the USDA's principal scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200609B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - October 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200610A.txt _____________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> We would all like to see more letters from you, the readers. This issue is pretty thin. There are three new subscribers, some with requests for your help and guidance. You can probably see how the year has treated you, with heat, (cold?), and rain or storm damage. It's always impressive how many nice fruit trees in Florida escape destruction, when storms hammer them with such frequency and intensity. I have a lot of varieties of mango that are bearing this year. I've been a slow learner about water needs for this tree, but I've paid more attention and I really believe that is largely responsible for the variety with fruit this year. Tell us how your fruit trees are performing. Lychee fruit favors south side of tree - My lychee crop was sparse but fruit were larger than usual. More of interest is that this year again, the fruit was mostly on the south side of the tree, with a very few scattered on the west side, but none on the north or north-east side. Does this happen to your trees? The tree is 'Brewster' and has only begun to bear the last two or three trees. It is pretty big. Is it ok to prune (or airlayer) to try to make the fruit more in reach? I have a 'Sweetheart' that should begin to bear next year. Plant sale at our San Diego home (see below for more information.) <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber - Orangevale, CA STEVE WRIGHT New Subscriber - Madeira Island, Portugal Vital Scherrer New Subscriber, Solana Beach, CA Janet Wanerka <><><> Readers Write <><><> Turpentine Mango Seeds Wanted In Florida Charles Novak To: Leo Manuel Re: Turpentine Mango Seeds Wanted In Florida Leo Manuel To: Charles Novak More About Thailand's Floral Expo Laurie Our Figs Are Unusually Early - Are Yours? N Sterman How did mangos became popular in the Caribbean? harriet bartle Identify Tropical Plum Tree eamusg@quixnet.net Root weevils found at 9 San Diego county sites! Leo Manuel (Sent by reader) Starting "Dragon fruit" plants from cuttings "Holzinger, Bob" Re: "Dragon fruit" plants from cuttings Leo Manuel To: "Holzinger, Bob" Unusual Apple Varieties Sought Susan Sheffield PITAYA FESTIVAL October 7, 2006 10 am Cal Poly Pomona Edgar Growth Regulators In Indian Fig-Information Needed Kuniko Iwamoto Haga Need Specialty Fruit Source and Advice Growing Mary Leo's plant sale at home Leo Manuel -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- Subject: New Subscriber - Orangevale, CA Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 17:37:34 -0700 (PDT) From: STEVE WRIGHT Hello! I came across your website while searching Yahoo for California Rare Fruite Growers, and I am interested in your e-newsletter. As per your instructions, here is the following information: I am Steve Wright, and I live in Orangevale, California, a suburb of Sacramento pushed up to against the Sierra Nevada foothills, the most eastern part of the Sacramento Valley. We are Sunset zone 9. I grow many fruit trees on my half acre lot. I have 3 pluots that I have grafted or budded with various plum or prune scions. I have 1 nectarine, 6 cherry, 1 almond, 2 apricot, 1 aprium, 1 pomegranate, 3 apple, 2 pear, 9 assorted citrus, and 4 peach trees. I have 4 grape vines (Summer Royal, Fantasy Seedless, Black Corinth, and Italia) and 1 muscadine. I have a natural fascination of history and read history books on a consistent basis. While I may plant 2 or 3more cherry trees, an apple, or a kiwi, I am mostly interested in grafting scions of rare fruit into what trees I have. I have some rare and heritage fruit along with the more recent types of fruit such as the Emeral Drop pluot. While I know what most of my fruit varieties are, some (such as a very old apricot variety that my dad budded for me) are unknown. I have so many trees in a small place because I utilize backyard orchard culture, a high density planting and summer pruning practice that encourages a large number of trees in a small area. I look forward to hearing from you. Steve Wright mailto:sdubya59@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Madeira Island, Portugal Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 14:41:12 +0100 From: Vital Scherrer Dear Leo Manuel, My name is Vital Scherrer, I live in S. Jorge, in the north of the Atlantic island of Madeira, Portugal, in an oceanic warm temperate climate zone. I am growing all species of common fruit that can be grown in this climate, but am still looking for the varieties and cultivars, which are best adapted, best tasting and which make a most extended harvest season possible. My plants are still young. Some have not yet started to fruit, while others already did. Of the "rare" and subtropical or tropical fruits I have planted varieties or cultivars of the following: Crab apple Whitney; Sorbus devoniensis; Elderberries Sampo (S. nigra) and Sambucus lanceolata; Figs; Crataegus durobrivensis, -ellwangeriana; Amelanchier species and var.; Medlars Large Russian, Breda Giant, Nottingham; Mulberries; Pawpaws; Persimmons various, kaki and virginiana; Cherry plum hybrid Sprite and Delight; Quinces; Sea buckthorn; Chestnuts; Ginkgos Eastern Star, Mother Load, King of Dongting, Salem Lady, Mayfield; Hazelnuts; Heartnuts; Monkey puzzle; Nut pines, P. maximatinezii and sabiniana; Walnuts Pedro and Placentia; Elaeagnus x ebbingei; Pomegranate White, Eversweet and Ambrosia; Japanese plum yews; Chinese dogwoods; Cornelian cherry; Bananas; Loquats; Avocados; Cherimoyas; Currants; Feijoa; Gooseberies; Cape Gooseberry; Hardy Kiwifruit; Grape hybrids; Strawberry guavas; Citrus, also uncommon var.; Ice cream bean I am looking for information, propagation material and plants with the above qualities and wich have a low chill and a low heat requirement, especially cultivars of: Avocado; Banana; Cherimoya; Feijoa; Jujube; Pineapple; White Sapote; Cape Gooseberry; Hardy Kiwifruit and Kiwi; Loquat; Macadamia; Mulberry; Olive; Passion Fruit; Pepino Dulce; Persimmon; Edible Hardy Palms; Pithecellobium dulce; Oaks producing large sweet acorns; Hazelnuts; Strawberry tree; Service tree as well as of common fruits and nuts. I am interested in the purchase, exchange and sale of information (including about permaculture practices and improvement of poor and acid soil), plants and propagation material. Kind regards Vital mailto:vital233@hotmail.com [For Permaculture information, write Dan mailTo:Permacltur@aol.com] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Solana Beach, CA Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 10:52:56 -0700 From: Janet Wanerka Hello, We are members of the San Diego Rare Fruit Growers and would like to subscribe to your online publication, living in Solana Beach, CA 92075. We grow oranges, mandarins, lemons, limes, cherimoya, plums, mangoes, avocadoes, figs, sapote, lychee, peaches, bananas, apples, etc. We enjoy being able to grow so many wonderful fruits as we are native New Yorkers, with a limited fruit growing background. We have had mixed success, so far, as not everything has produced fruit yet; but we are ever hopeful! Thank you, Phil Tacktill & Janet E. Wanerka mailTo:jiusanbonsai@adelphia.net <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Turpentine Mango Seeds Wanted In Florida Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2006 09:50:19 -0700 From: Charles Novak To: Leo Manuel Hi Leo, Do you have a lot of Turpentine mangos? I need some seeds. Please let me know! Thank you very much! Have a great weekend! Best Regards, Charles mailto:charles.novak@gmail.com President - Tampa Bay Chapter of the Rare Fruit Council International, Inc ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Turpentine Mango Seeds Wanted In Florida Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 09:50:19 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Charles Novak Hi Charles, I don't have many, and local friends have asked for some. Why don't I put your request in the next newsletter? Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: More About Thailand's Floral Expo Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 04:32:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Laurie Fellow RFNO Gardeners, I've decided to take up Sainarong's invitation and attend Thailand's Royal Floral Ratchaphruek 2006 with family and friends. Join us please. This floral expo is going to be HUGE http://www.royalfloraexpo.com/index.asp. My Auntie Jane (former owner of Chrysanthemums of Hawaii in Hawaii Kai) and I are going to the Expo in Jan 2007. Bill Durston (Leilani Nursery in Waimanalo) has expressed interest in going in Jan too. Besides the Hawaii group, there are at least 4 Nursery owners from the Philippines going with us. We have reservations at the CM Bluehouse, it is run by 2 Hawaii transplants named Tim & Tony. They have very good referrals, rooms are clean and $8-12 a night. If you would like to know more here is some information. http://starbulletin.com/2006/07/16/business/story01.html a referral http://www.travelfish.org/accommodation_profile/thailand/northern_thailand/chiang_mai/chiang_mai/all/1822/3?ord=2 Tim & Tony's email is altr2003@yahoo.com, tell them you heard about them from me. Keep in touch if you decide to attend, I'd love to meet some of the other 450 fellow RFNO gardeners. timnovida@aol.com Laurie mailto:Timnovida@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Our Figs Are Unusually Early - Are Yours? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 20:53:01 -0700 From: N Sterman Hi Leo Are your figs ripening unusually early? Mine sure are. I usually lose most of my brown turkey crop to cold temps some time in November, but we've been harvesting brown turkeys and big yellows (thanks to a cutting from Keith Harold several years ago) for about 2 weeks now. They are fantastic! I am thrilled to have such a great crop as well. I wonder if it has to do with those 3 weeks of intense heat in July. What do you think? Nan mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: How did mangos became popular in the Caribbean? Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 17:39:38 +0100 (BST) From: harriet bartle How did mangos become popular in the Caribbean? Harriet mailto:crazylassie12@yahoo.co.uk ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Identify Tropical Plum Tree Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:40:39 -0400 From: eamusg@quixnet.net Hi Leo I have a purple plum tree. It is a tropical fruit tree, it is fast growing has notched leaves. Each leaf comes in 3-5 or more. It is growing as fast as a Jak fruit tree. Does anyone have a clue what it is. I need any information at all Ed Musgrave mailto:eamusg@quixnet.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Root weevils found at 9 San Diego county sites! Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 19:43:40 -0700 From: Leo Manuel (Sent by reader) **Silent, damaging pest Root weevils found at 9 county sites; insects are nearing farming areas *By Elena Gaona* STAFF WRITER September 2, 2006 ENCINITAS Ð If there is one good thing about the diaprepes root weevil, aka the Òevil weevil,Ó it's that the bug is lazy about flying. The rest is bad. County and state agriculture officials are increasingly worried that the root weevil, discovered for the first time in the county three months ago, could be the most damaging pest to attack local crops. ÒIt makes the Mexican fruit fly look like a piece of cake,Ó said Tracy Ellis, a San Diego researcher with the University of California Cooperative Extension. When the root weevil was found in University City in May, researchers believed they were dealing with an isolated infestation. Since then, however, it has has turned up in nine sites from Oceanside to Chula Vista, said entomologist David Kellum of the county's agriculture, weights and measures department. So far, none of the infestations are on nurseries or in commercial groves, but new discoveries of weevils are approaching farming areas quickly. ÒIt's getting very serious at this point,Ó Kellum said. A black beetle with a pronounced snout and orange, gray or white markings on its back, the weevil eats the roots of plants, often killing them, and damages leaves on about 270 species. Those include the county's most lucrative crops of nursery plants, ornamental trees and citrus. This week, avocados were added to the list. ÒIt's the scariest insect we've ever encountered,Ó said Janet Silva Kister, co-owner of Sunlet Nursery in Fallbrook, Òbecause the potential to have a quarantine that would shut down our business is very high.Ó Four sites Ð in University City, Carmel Valley, Olivenhain and the La Costa area of Carlsbad Ð have been declared quarantine zones by the state to try and stop the pest from spreading. A fifth in Rancho Santa Fe may soon be declared a quarantine zone, which means moving soil and green clippings is restricted. The other locations, in Chula Vista, Scripps Ranch, Oceanside and in a second area of Rancho Santa Fe, so far have turned up only isolated weevils on trees and need further testing before being labeled as infestations, Kellum said. Quarantines have also been declared in Los Angeles and Orange counties. Surveying continues, but officials don't want to wait any longer before dealing with the bug. ÒIt's imperative to start,Ó Kellum said, even if the extent of the infestation is unknown, because the weevils are reproducing. The state Department of Food and Agriculture announced yesterday that it will begin pesticide treatments of infested areas Sept. 11. Informational meetings to talk about that spraying and the weevil are scheduled for Tuesday and Friday. In addition, 1.7 million postcards with a picture of the weevil have been sent to targeted ZIP codes in 29 counties, from San Diego to Shasta, to help people spot it. Anyone who does is asked to call a hotline at (800) 491-1899. In Florida, where more than 30,000 acres of citrus in 23 counties are infested, the root weevil is so widespread that eradication is no longer an option. Native to the Caribbean, the weevil is believed to have been accidentally imported to Florida an ornamental plant in 1964. Since it had not been a problem in California before, researchers here were unsure whether some crops, such as avocados, were on its menu. On Wednesday Ellis, the university researcher, photographed two weevils mating on a lush avocado tree in Olivenhain, the most heavily infested area found in the county. That added avocado trees to the list of host plants. While sightings of the bugs on leaves tell part of the problem, Ellis said, eradicating the root weevil is complicated because it spends much of its life underground. Adult weevils mate and lay eggs on leaves. The eggs hatch in seven to 10 days and the grublike larvae drop to the soil. The larvae feed on roots and grow to about an inch in eight to 15 months. Adults emerge from the soil and either fly a short distance or begin climbing to feed. Adults live five to 18 months, usually staying on the same plant. They are moved long distances usually only by humans. Because it is so difficult to detect them in the soil, weevils can do lots of damage before being discovered, Ellis said. So far, weevils have been found in the county areas that total about 20 square miles, Kellum said, so the goal is still eradicating them. If new discoveries produce quarantine areas that begin overlapping, Kellum said, officials would consider switching to management of the weevils Ð an admission that they are not going away. Since the first weevils were discovered, about 10 pest-detection specialists with the state agriculture department have spent weeks traveling around the county shaking and poking at random bushes and trees in infested areas. The weevils fall to the ground and play dead when discovered, said pest control supervisor Cesar Paredes. They are captured when they land on large white screens. The decision to begin pesticide spraying in infected areas is commendable, Silva Kister of Sunlet Nursery said, but farmers believe eradicating the weevils in the county also has to address how they got here. The county Farm Bureau is asking state and county officials to conduct genetic testing on captured weevils and ÒtracebacksÓ to try and determine the source, such as a shipment of plants from Florida. But it is not clear if there if funding for that. The state agriculture department doesn't have a research budget for genetic testing, spokesman Jay Van Rein said. In the future, solutions to deal with the pest may include natural predators and ovacides to prevent eggs from hatching, Ellis said. ÒWe thought it was isolated at first,Ó Kellum said, but as more weevils are found in more sites, the plan to deal with them is not finalized. ÒIt's a work in progress.Ó Elena Gaona: (760) 737-7575 MAILTo:elena.gaona@uniontrib.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Starting "Dragon fruit" plants from cuttings Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:18:35 -0700 From: "Holzinger, Bob" Hi Leo, A friend from work gave me a 14Ó piece from his ÒDragon fruitÓ plant, which he says is self fruitful. The stem is too skinny to be H. undatus, so it must be one of the other species. My question is how to best propagate from this piece. With other succulents I have been told to cut the piece into 4-6Ó pieces, let the cut end callus off and then place the cut end in potting soil/rooting mix. Is this what you would recommend? Thanks, Bob mailto:bholzing@amgen.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: "Dragon fruit" plants From: Leo Manuel To: "Holzinger, Bob" Hi Bob, Even H. undatus will sometimes have skinny stems sometimes. I propagate by putting the pieces (not necessarily callused) in a container of straight perlite that has been very slightly dampened. I sprinkle with water once weekly. Too damp and they often rot. Bottom heat helps, especially with cool weather coming on. It is easier to keep the pitaya upright if the perlite is deep enough to support it. I wouldn't cut it up. Longer pieces are preferred. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Unusual Apple Varieties Sought Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:43:08 -0400 From: Susan Sheffield I work for a gentleman who is relocating to Switzerland next fall. He is interested in ordering unusual apples by mail that he can taste in order to determine which apple trees to grow on his property in Switzerland. Please can you tell me who sells unusual apples via mail order? Many thanks. Susan Sheffield mailto:ballsafl@tampabay.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: PITAYA FESTIVAL October 7, 2006 10 am Cal Poly Pomona Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 08:35:15 -0700 From: Edgar PITAYA FESTIVAL By California Rare Fruit Growers October 7, 2006 10 am Cal Poly Pomona, Agriscape Building 4102 S. University Dr. Pomona, CA This year the Pitaya Festival promises to be a great event! We will have two lectures, tasting and testing of the many varieties of the pitayas (dragon fruit) that are grown in the U.S. by CRFG members. We will also be touring a plantation of pitayas that are grown locally. Space is limited. Be on time! This event is free. If you are planning to attend and if you grow pitaya please bring your best pitayas to share and be tested. I recommend that you bring your own lunch. The event might last until 3 pm. DIRECTIONS: From the 57 Freeway exit at Temple Ave. and go west. At University Dr. turn left. The address is 4102 S. University Dr. It will take place at the Agriscape Building which is located right next to the Cal Poly Pomona Farm Store. Signs will be posted Edgar mailTo:edgarv@lafn.org [I'm planning to go, as are several San Diego friends. Maybe I'll see some of you there! -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growth Regulators In Indian Fig-Information Needed Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 17:40:20 -0300 From: Kuniko Iwamoto Haga Hi! My students are researching Indian figs and need information about growth regulators in the reproductive phase, if you have this information Thanks Kuniko Iwamoto Haga mailto:kuniko@bio.feis.unesp.br ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Need Specialty Fruit Source and Advice Growing Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 09:02:27 -0400 From: Mary Don't know if the one I sent before made it to you. So, sending it again. Mary Bartlett Bartlett Meadows, Pace, FL (Panhandle) gmb3450@bellsouth.net I grow specialty cut flowers for florists on a 4 acre farm. I want to add some specialty fruits to our inventory. I'm looking for wholesale stocks of Satsuma Mandarins, Moro Blood Oranges, Shipova, Hardy Kiwi, and PawPaw. Of course, I'll need some help with growing instructions. Is anyone growing these? Does anyone know where I can get some healthy ones in Florida at a wholesale price? Thanks so much!!! Mary B. mailto:bartlettmary@bellsouth.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Leo's plant sale at home (San Diego) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 10:44:00 -0700 From: Leo Manuel I have the following plants for sale at our home: Pitayas - Yellow (Selenicereus megalanthus) $30 - $40 - G-1, G-2, G-3 Self-fertile red flesh few spines $30 - $40 - Connie Mayer Hybrid, unusual red flower $20 White Sapote Seedlings of McDill (lg fruit) $ 5 Che (Chinese mulberry) cutting grown $20 Mango - Seedlings of Thomson, have born fruit $40 - $45 Mango - unknown seedling $20 Mango - Seedling of Autaulfo (or Champaigne) $30 Mango - Seedling of Turpentine, Rootstock $35 Mango - Grafted Early Gold for coastal area $45 Longan - Layer of Kohala $35 - $40 Email (mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com) for additional information or directions to our home in Rancho Pe–asquitos (San Diego.) Let me know before coming what you are interested in and approximate date and time you want to come. Lots of mango fruit on the trees and some pitaya fruit as well, if you want to look around. Leo mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200610A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - October 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200610B.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Pitaya Festival In Pomona - A Success! The meeting October 7 drew hundreds of interested people. There were three growers who showed slides and talked of their methods and plants. They were Edgar Valdivia and Ramiro Loba from California, and Roger Washington, from Florida. The trellis systems of Ramiro Lobo and Roger Washington were interesting, and Roger's using polyester fiber Grow-Bags for his pitayas, rather than pots sparked many questions. Numerous pictures were taken and Edgar Valdivia will make many of them available on a CD by mail mailto:edgarv@lafn.org for $10 ppd. Also, some of them will be online at the Yahoo site PitayaFruit. Mango Fruit: We have a bountiful crop, most of which are beginning to ripen. Apples are mostly gone, but several bananas are almost ready to harvest. I'm about ready to remove bananas as there are mango trees I'd prefer to have in their place. There is so little room on a 0.25 acre lot after the house and garage. Please tell us about your fruit this year. Surprise rainfall Friday night (Oct. 13) and more probably on its way, judging by the dark overcast today. I didn't measure it but the ground is pretty wet. Plant Sale - There are still some plants remaining of pitaya, mango, and others. Write for a plant list and directions to our home, if interested. This issue had fewer letters from you to post than I had hoped would arrive. My concern is that the newsletter has less relevance than it once had. Please send information that you think may be of interest to other readers. This can't become a one-man show.... <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New subscriber-N. Carolina-Any Container Rare Fruit? Marley Bone <><><> Readers Write <><><> Heirloom apples fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com To: ballsafl@tampabay.rr.com Lychee fruiting Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Re: Lychee fruiting Leo Manuel mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com To: Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Rating Lychee by Taste fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com CRFG San Diego Chapter Newsletter Leo Manuel mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com Diaprepes Weevil In Florida - Our Control Edward Lin mailto:elin@ingenious.com Our Sun Valley Pitaya and Walnuts by Squirrels James Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com Seedless Cherimoya Using Gibberellic Acid? dracademia@aol.com CRFG-North San Diego County Oct. 2006 Leo Manuel mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New subscriber-NC-Wants Dragon Plum Info. Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 22:53:25 -0400 From: Marley Bone Hi there! I am interested in growing some fruit (rare would be nice, but I'm open to any kinds). I live in Raleigh, NC, and the temperature can be anywhere from 105 in summer (gotta love the 115 degree heat indices this past summer) to 10 in the winter. I would expect because of this I need to focus mostly on dwarf/container plants that I can bring inside. Does anyone know types of fruit or even specific varieties that make good container plants? Also, I was wondering if anyone had information about dragon plums. They are one of my favorite fruits, but I can't find out what climate they grow in. (I have space in my backyard for only one tree, as most of it is covered with pine trees.) Thanks for any help you can give me. I'm glad I stumbled across this newsletter. What a wonderful idea for fruit-lovers! Marley Bone mailto:sychick@gmail.com [What is a "Dragon Plum" - really a plum? -Leo] <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Heirloom apples Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 14:58:02 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com To: ballsafl@tampabay.rr.com I read this article in the NY times a couple of years ago and saved it. I don't know if they sell their apples mail order, but you could try. They might also be able to give you good leads. Oscar Jaitt See http://www.povertylaneorchards.com/ or write mailTo:info@povertylaneorchards.com Also http://www.treesofantiquity.com/ for trees for sale. October 20, 2004 Apples With Pedigrees Selling in Urban Edens by DAVID KARP EBANON, N.H. It was like seeing a duchess on the subway. There in the produce section of an Upper East Side market amid the mass-produced Red Delicious and McIntosh apples, was a display of Ribston Pippins. Their skin was a palette of red, gold and brown worthy of Rembrandt, their pale yellow flesh shockingly aromatic. In England, where the variety originated three centuries ago, its complex taste is considered so distinctive that it is known as the Ribston flavor. But in the United States, old varieties like this have been grown on only a few trees by the several dozen apple farmers with collections of such rarities. How did the Ribston get to the supermarket? In a sense, necessity. Facing competition that threatened to put them out of business, Stephen Wood and his wife, Louisa Spencer, the owners of Poverty Lane Orchards here, gave up on commercial apple growing and planted 20 acres of Ribstons and other high-flavored "uncommon apples," as they call them. For several years they have sold some in New York, and this season they are distributing them nationally for the first time. Commercializing apples like Ashmead's Kernel and Esopus Spitzenburg, prized by connoisseurs but fiendishly hard to grow, might seem as foolhardy as trying to revive the telegraph, but for Mr. Wood the allure of a profitable niche outshines the pitfalls. There are plenty of these, which became clear on a visit to his farm, a patchwork of hillsides in the Connecticut River Valley. On a misty late-September afternoon Mr. Wood directed his best pickers to the tricky task of this year's Ribston harvest. The crop was scanty. Even worse, half the apples had water-core, a disorder that leaves parts of them saturated with liquid. The workers laboriously culled these out, and from 120 trees they picked just one bin, about 700 pounds of prime fruit, a ninth of the yield from standard varieties. "This apple drives me nuts," Mr. Wood said. "It's stunningly rich, but we can't plant any more until I solve the water-core problem. It may just be a matter of adding something like a calcium spray." Mr. Wood, 50, has been fascinated by apples since he was 10, when his father, a family doctor, bought the farm (named for the adjacent road, christened by an itinerant preacher disappointed by the stingy alms offered there). While Mr. Wood was earning an undergraduate degree in medieval history at Harvard, where he also met his wife, he took over the production of apples, then mostly McIntoshes and Cortlands, shuttling between farm and campus. He prospered through the 1980's, as his crisp, aromatic, northern-grown McIntoshes brought premium returns. Then overproduction and low prices hit the United States apple industry, striking hardest at the relatively small and low-yielding orchards of New England. Apple acreage in New Hampshire dropped to 2,100 last year from 3,500 in 1993. Mr. Wood struggled to grow traditional high-quality apples, but supermarket chains increasingly demanded waxed, preternaturally large fruit. "By 1992 it became abundantly clear that the business that we'd been in was just not going to work," said Mr. Wood, who has kept 20 acres of commercial varieties for pick-it-yourself and farm-stand sales. He could have sold his land, shifted to hot new varieties or focused on value-added products and family entertainment, like petting zoos. But the farm was too far from big cities to draw traffic, and he and his wife were determined to keep their land productive and do what they loved: raise apples. "If we have to come home smelling like scented candles to persuade ourselves that we're growing fruit for a living, we ought to rethink what we're doing," he said one evening in his office. So for Mr. Wood, as for other farmers who have gambled on specialty produce, desperation was the mother of anachronism. Luckily, from the early 1980's he collected varieties for an experimental orchard. "I was just fooling around," he said during a tour of the test planting, near his barn. "Then it occurred to me that I ought to take what I've learned about these weird varieties and really plant them. Mr. Wood chose varieties with exceptional flavor that appealed to him and to customers and that flourished on his farm. The area's long, harsh winters ruled out some varieties, like Newtown Pippin. Several of the 10 kinds he planted were russets, which have matte brown skin, making them hard to market. But many are extraordinarily beautiful: Golden Russet often gleams with oranges and golds evoking the patina of ancient glass and hinting of the cidery sweetness within. Ashmead's Kernel is indeed small and drab, and crops poorly, but compensates with its astonishingly concentrated sweet-tart taste, reminiscent of fruit drops. Mr. Wood decided to grow Calville Blanc d'Hiver, a classic French dessert and cooking apple from the 16th century, for its rich, effervescent flavor and distinctive ribbed form. "It helps if an apple has a story," he said, as he ambled down a row of Calville trees, his black dog, Luther, at his side. He calls his specialty apples "uncommon," not "heirloom," because many commercial varieties are more than a century old, and two of his are fairly recent: Hudson's Golden Gem, a large, juicy russet, originated in 1931, and Wickson, small as a crab apple but ultrasweet, in 1944. Mr. Wood planted thousands of antique apple trees from 1993 to 1998, but a run of attacks by hungry beavers, deer and porcupines set them back several years. It was not until 1999 that Poverty Lane Orchards shipped significant quantities of rare apples to distributors in the Northeast. The peculiarities of his varieties both vex and intrigue Mr. Wood. His favorite ? it was also Thomas Jefferson's ? is Esopus Spitzenburg, bright red, with sky-high levels of sugar balanced by floral acidity. But its limbs grow chaotically, shading out the branches below, and it often produces "blind" wood, with no buds. "It's the tree from hell," Mr. Wood said, waving his arms at a row of unruly Spitzes as if to say, "Behave!" "From my perspective, however," he added, "the apples are sufficiently valuable that we put up with this nonsense." Much of that value comes from the Spitzenburg's contribution to the critically praised hard cider that Mr. Wood and his wife produce under the name Farnum Hill. Serendipitously, several of the uncommon apples help make superb hard cider, even the blemished fruits unsuited for fresh sale. Picking at the right time is crucial. The day of the Ribston harvest, Mr. Wood and his right-hand man, Fitzgerald Campbell, sampled a dozen fruits of Pomme Grise, a flat, nutty-flavored russet, spitting out the bites like wine tasters. The fruits were still a bit starchy, so Mr. Wood decided to wait. Two days later the crew returned to harvest, grasping the fruits gently and pouring them gingerly out of picking sacks into bins. One bin was worth $400 to Mr. Wood, he said, compared to $80 for McIntoshes. Pomme Grise is a midseason treat, good to the end of October, but three high-flavored varieties, Spitz, Ashmead and Golden Russet, all harvested in the last week, were traditionally stored for a month or more to let starch convert to sugar, acidity drop and subtle aromatic compounds develop. Mr. Wood said he would like to offer apples at peak maturity, but after Thanksgiving citrus dominates produce displays. He employs none of the technologies commercial packers use to enhance shelf life and crispness, often to the detriment of aroma: waxing, controlled atmosphere storage and SmartFresh, a recently introduced ethylene-inhibiting hormone. Demand for Poverty Lane's apples has increased gradually, said David Russell of Cheshire Company, a Worcester, Mass., broker that handles the fruit. But produce managers often confuse the unfamiliar apples with cheaper kinds, and some of the antique varieties become mealy if not properly refrigerated. Still, Frieda's, the specialty produce distributor, is handling the apples for the first time this year, sending them as far as the Central Market chain in Texas. Mr. Wood has proselytized for antique varieties to other growers, including Apple Hill Farm of Concord, N.H., which has five acres, and the seven-acre Alyson's Apple Orchard in Walpole, N.H. In Brattleboro, Vt., Ezekiel Goodband of Scott Farm has grafted rare varieties on 25 acres; most are just coming into production. So antique apples may someday be as available as heirloom tomatoes, and that is just what Mr. Wood fears. "What worries me most," he said, "is that after we develop a demand, some fool will plant these varieties in a place where they don't grow very well and kill our market." Oscar mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Lychee fruiting Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 15:03:25 -0700 From: Oscar Leo, lychees tend to bear most fruit on the side of the tree with most sun exposure. Is part of your tree getting shade? That part will not bear. It is ok to prune them or air layer the lychee to make fruits more reachable. Some varieties like Kaimana and Wai Chee are low stature and do not need as much pruning as the super tall Brewster. Oscar Jaitt mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Lychee fruiting Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 15:21:06 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: Oscar Hi Oscar, Sun exposure doesn't seem to be the primary consideration, for some reason. How do you rate the fruit of various cultivars of lychee? I only have a young Sweetheart besides Brewster. I hope this youngster doesn't get super tall. Thanks for writing! Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rating Lychee by Taste Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 16:34:34 -0700 From: fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com Leo, could then be lack of heat? Your southern exposure is the hottest. I don't have any sweetheart lychee of bearing age. Bought one in Florida as PIN told me that is their tastiest variety. Here is how i rate the varieties i have in terms of taste: B-3 10, Kaiamana 9.5, Brewster 9, Groff 8. Thank you, Oscar Jaitt mailto:fruitlovers@fruitlovers.com http://www.fruitlovers.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG San Diego Chapter Newsletter Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 09:27:47 -0700 From: Leo Manuel Meeting: Oct. 26, 2006 7:00 Rm. 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park, Voicemail: 619/866-0575 Chair: David Silverstein mailto:chair@crfgsandiego.org Newsletter Editor: Cielo mailto:editor@crfgsandiego.org The View from the Chair September was a beautiful month in the coastal fruit garden. October is shaping up nicely as well. We have been eating figs, pomegranates, watermelons, and mangos. The figs are Striped Panache, Green Panache, Jelly and Flanders this year, all good in their own way. I know that Panache is supposed to be striped, but I think that it is fairly common for a bud to revert to the green form and give rise to branches of the green figs. The flavor of the green ones is just as good I think. In addition, our fig expert Jon Verdick has opined that the green ones seem less prone to cracking than the striped ones. That also seems to be true on my tree. It is nice that the trees are finally big enough that they are ripening enough fruit for the fig eaters at our house. Well, almost. In the pomegranate department, Wonderful is loaded and the fruit has just started ripening. We are just finishing the last of the Eversweet. The Eversweet is a good fruit. It has pale skin and light red arils that are sweet with crunchy seeds. I just wish that it was more fruitful. At this point in its life, the tree produces less than half the fruit of Wonderful on a comparably sized, but younger and twigier tree. Hopefully the yield will improve in time. The fruits also sometimes have a problem in that their calices donÕt open up all the way. This allows insects to take shelter in there and do damage. Sometimes this causes fruit rot. So far the best thing to do has been to go out and cut off the calyx ÒpetalsÓ early in the summer. This year is the first year that pomegranate Apsheronski Krasnyi has fruited. The fruits are not yet ripe, but they are extraordinarily beautiful, being bright red all over with long calices. Even if they turn out to be duds on the flavor side, they may still give Wonderful some healthy competition in the market place. As you may be aware, more of the fresh pomegranates sold in the US are used as decorations than as food. This is also the first year that Green Globe is fruiting for me as well. The fruit is on a portion of my Wonderful that I grafted over. If you look at the written descriptions of this variety, it looks quite appealing. The CRFG website says: ÒLarge, sweet, aromatic, green-skinned fruit. Excellent quality.Ó The ARS-GRIN website says ÒFruits large, up to 840 g. (close to 2 pounds!), green, sweet, hang down like a chandelier, mature from September to November, later will split. Kernels large.Ó That sounds like a winner. Funny thing though is that the tree up at Davis that I saw last fall did not have particularly large fruit. I also heard informally from someone that ÒYou could break your teeth on the seeds.Ó I assume that means that they were hard. I note also that my fruits are not particularly large, certainly not as large as the Wonderfuls on the same tree. Time will tell on the quality. I will say though that the stems connecting these to the branches are extremely thick and substantial. This may mean that when the tree gets more mature it will carry bigger fruit. I hope so. IÕm not rushing these on ripeness. This means that I will be bringing one for auction at the next meeting. IÕll also bring one that lost its label for the raffle table. The named one I bring will be Ganesh or Jalore, seedless (super soft seeded) varieties from the Indian subcontinent. The nameless one is almost certainly one of these two as well. IÕm also looking to place a couple of these critters with people who will give them good in-ground conditions and space. During dormant season, IÕll also be bringing a few precious cuttings in of Chawla, Galosha Rozavaya, and Galosha Azerbaijani. These are all reputed to be excellent. But enough about Pomegranate, for the moment, letÕs talk about watermelons. I am totally delighted with the performance of old standby variety: Sugar Baby. The vines are compact and productive. The fruits are small, round, dark green and very dense. Inside they are bright red and very crisp, sweet and juicy right to the rind. Their texture is also closer and finer than standard commercial watermelons. The only drawback is that they are not seedless, but the seeds are very small and not overly abundant. I love this plant. My other watermelon is a Hopi variety called Kawayvatnga . This is a large round striped type with sections somewhat like a pumpkin and an absolutely iron hide. It said to be red fleshed with occasional yellow ones showing up. All mine are descended from my first ones which happened to be yellow. I think at this point that all I have are seeds for yellow, unless some are crossed with Sugar Baby. Kawayvatnga is a good sweet fruit, a bit coarser textured than Sugar Baby but still crisp and nice. It can be a bit seedy, and the seeds are big, but they tend to be pretty concentrated in a band, so it is easy to cut them out. This is one that has had a good track record for me over the years and my conditions are not ideal. It is available from the Native Seed Search website. Mine originally came from a lady in Arizona who mentioned it favorably on Gardenweb seven or eight years ago. When I asked her about it, she offered to send me a big envelope of seeds. My present plants are descended from those seeds. If you want some of the most recent generation, just ask. Oh and lest I forget. How about that ice cream buffet. Positively sinful. Jose Gallego sure rounded up some wonderful ice cream. What was your favorite? Mine was, well I had a lot of favorites. There was good old Guanabana Ð hard to beat. But that Fig and Mezcal was very special. The surprise one for me was the cucumber with chili. And then there was that one with many different fruits in it. I just couldnÕt pick a favorite. IÕm glad that place is down in TJ though. If it were convenient, IÕd probably be there all the time. And also letÕs not forget those excellent dates that Barb Alvarez brought, delicious. Those were Barhi dates ripened to the khalal stage. That is going to be a hard meeting to top. But weÕll do our best. Best wishes to all. I look forward to seeing you on the 26th. - David Silverstein Program: Avocados Avocado Growing Expert Julie Frink will make a presentation on variety selection and growing of avocados in Southern California, followed by a question and answer session. This will be followed by fruit tasting and a fruit tree raffle that will include a rare pomegranate variety from India. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: RE: Rare Fruit News Online - October 1, 2006 - 9 Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 22:08:37 -0400 From: Edward Lin Hello Leo, In light of the article on Diaprepes weevil, I offer the attached article of info on this pest. Here in FL, we use the Aprostocetus vaquitarum (pinhead sized parasitoid wasps) to fight the weevil infestation Regards, Ed mailto:elin@ingenious.com http://news.ufl.edu/2001/12/27/wasps/ ItÕs A Bug-Eat-Bug World: UF Researcher Imports Wasps From Caribbean To Control Destructive Root Weevils In Florida Filed under Research , Environment , Florida on Thursday, December 27, 2001. HOMESTEAD, Fla. Ñ When it comes to stopping one of the most destructive insect pests in Florida, itÕs a bug-eat-bug world. To control the Diaprepes root weevil on various crops, a University of Florida entomologist has imported three tiny wasps from the Caribbean and released them in five South Florida counties. Early tests indicate the wasps are providing effective control of the weevil without pesticides. ÒSince its accidental introduction into Florida from the Caribbean more than 30 years ago, the Diaprepes root weevil has been impossible to eradicate and difficult to control,Ó said Jorge Pena, professor with UFÕs Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences. The exotic weevil attacks citrus, ornamental plants, root crops, tropical fruit crops and grasses. Estimates show the weevil infests more than 100,000 acres of citrus and causes more than $70 million in damage annually. ÒDespite all the damage, there is some good news,Ó said Pena, who has started a biological control program that uses wasps to attack the eggs of the Diaprepes root weevil. The wasps prevent weevils from reproducing. ÒBiological control is appealing as a pest management tool because it relies on natural predators instead of pesticides. ItÕs nontoxic and often is self-sustaining,Ó Pena said. Since the wasps already attack Diaprepes root weevil eggs in Puerto Rico, Guadeloupe and other Caribbean countries, PenaÕs first goal was to import the wasps from the islands to see if they would become established in Florida. He brought three different wasp parasites into the state, placed them under quarantine conditions and then released them in test plots. The three parasites are identified by the following scientific names: Quadrastichus haitiensis, Ceratogramma etiennei and Aprostocetus vaquitarum. Pena, based at UFÕs Tropical Research and Education Center in Homestead, Fla., said female Diaprepes weevils lay their eggs in concealed sites, usually in the space between two adjacent leaves. Weevil egg masses are deposited in a gelatinous cement that seals the leaves together, protecting the eggs. Diaprepes eggs also are laid on broad-leafed plants, grasses and palm fronds. The parasitic wasps deposit their eggs into Diaprepes weevil eggs, preventing the Diaprepes weevils from emerging. Working with the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services and various grower organizations, Pena has released more than 363,000 wasps of the species C. etiennei since 1998, more than 160,000 Q. haitiensis since 1999 and more than 50,000 A. vaquitarum since 1999. He said the wasps were released in Florida citrus groves, ornamental plantings and undisturbed areas. C. etiennei wasp parasites have attacked Diaprepes eggs in Miami-Dade County. Q. haitiensis parasites have been found in weevil eggs in Miami-Dade, Glades, Hendry and Polk counties, and A. vaquitarum parasites have been recovered from weevil eggs in Indian River County. Pena said the findings indicate wasp parasites are becoming established in the state. In fact, since their introduction, the wasps have begun to parasitize 35 percent to 100 percent of Diaprepes root weevil eggs in different crops. ÒAlthough weÕre finding more and more of the wasp parasites in citrus groves Ñ which is good Ñ we need some additional studies to measure their effectiveness. We also need to learn how pesticide application affects the survival of the imported wasp parasites,Ó Pena said. ÒWe will continue releasing the wasp parasites in Florida and document how well they control Diaprepes root weevils.Ó newsdesk@ufl.edu --------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: Invasive root weevil spreads to Southern California Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2006 19:21:46 -0700 From: Leo Manuel http://ucanr.org/spotlight/weavil.shtml University of California Agriculture and Natural Resourses *Invasive root weevil spreads to Southern California* Entomologist Beth Grafton-Cardwell knew it was just a matter of time before the Diaprepes root weevil, a serious foe of citrus and nursery crops, showed up in California. Grafton-CardwellÕs instincts were excellent because the destructive weevils that feed on more than 270 plant species were recently found in southern California. Until then, the pest was found only in Florida and Texas. It is native to the Caribbean region and was first found in Florida in 1964. Today, more than 30,000 acres of citrus in 23 counties in Florida are infested. In September 2005, the root weevil was discovered in an urban area of Newport Beach, and a month later the pest surfaced 18 miles away in Long Beach. The weevil has been intercepted and destroyed numerous times in California in shipments of plants, truck trailers, and cargo holds of aircraft. The California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) is surveying these infestations in Los Angeles and Orange counties and developing an eradication plan. An emergency eradication response is necessary now to ensure the root weevil does not continue to multiply and spread to other areas of the state. With three-year funding from the Exotic/Invasive Pests and Diseases Research Program (EPDRP), Grafton-Cardwell, a researcher from University of California, Riverside, traveled to Florida in 2001 to work with researchers to find ways to prevent the spread of this insect to citrus groves and other crops in California. " ItÕs imperative that we prevent this pest from migrating from urban areas into agricultural areas because the result could be devastating to California crops,Ó says Grafton-Cardwell. The root weevil larvae plunge underground and feed on the roots of the plant. They will often encircle the taproot, impeding the ability of the plant to take up water and nutrients, killing the plant. This type of injury also provides an avenue for root rot infections. A single larva can kill young plants while several larvae can cause serious decline of older, established plants. Because larvae are below ground, it is difficult to detect them before decline of above ground portions of the host are observed. In the Florida studies, researchers used a special trap called a ÒTedders trapÓ to collect adult weevils. This trap acts like a tree trunk, and the emerging beetle climbs up it and is caught in a container at the top. Researchers also applied a strain of a fungus to the surface of the Tedders trap to kill adult weevils. This way, the trap monitors the pest and also distributes the fungus into the weevil population to control it biologically. In the Florida project, researchers also traveled to the Caribbean to collect tiny, stingless wasps (parasites) that attack the weevilÕs eggs. Researchers released two parasites in groves and ornamentals that were infested with the pest in 10 counties in southern and central Florida in 1999 and 2001, respectively. Currently, the parasite, /Aprostocetus vaquitarum/, seems to have established well, however, it is sensitive to some insecticides. Establishment and recovery of the wasps appears to be more successful in pristine habitats like ornamental plant nurseries than in citrus groves. It is likely that the pesticides that are applied to citrus for other pests are hindering the parasites. New species of parasites that attack the weevil eggs were collected from islands in the Caribbean during 2002. These new species appear to be promising when tested under quarantine conditions, and permission from federal agencies to release these species in the field is pending. Studies in Florida of natural enemies such as the fungi and parasites will help with California efforts to manage this pest. Although a strong flyer, Diaprepes root weevils generally only fly up to 300 yards to find food. The real threat of long distance spread of this pest could come from humans moving infested plants or soil. Grafton-Cardwell is working with other agencies to educate citrus growers, nursery workers and others. Through funding from the EPDRP of the University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Program and Center for Invasive Species Research, a team of researchers from the CDFA, the University of California, and the University of Florida developed a brochure describing the biology of this pest and the management program used in Florida. The booklet, Diaprepes Root Weevil (ANR Publication 8131), is available for free online at http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8131, and a Web site, http://citrusent.uckac.edu/Diaprepeshomepage.htm, features the pest in relationship to citrus. If you see this pest, call your local Cooperative Extension office or agriculture commissioner. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Our Sun Valley Pitaya; and, Walnuts by Squirrels Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 21:08:07 -0700 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo, I can advise that there are lots of little pitaya buds on my one cactus that crawls around on the wall! All of a sudden, maybe 20 buds which look like they may open up within a few days. Cooler weather? Maybe my watering the plants helped, too; I began to feel sorry for them over this long, hot summer and gave the plant a few good sprinklings. My other pitaya, the one that climbs the mulberry and olive trees, has shown no sign of wanting to blossom this year. A few little sprouts which I think are papayas, coming up in a tiny area on my patio that was laid bare earlier this summer when a roommate took a saw to the daisies I had planted and dug them all out, for unknown reasons. There's also a hollyhock but that hardly qualifies as a rare plant. While not edible, and not a fruit, my great mullein plant is doing well this year - perhaps it will even give its one and only flower later in the year. I may be the only person in Los Angeles with a mullein; had a seed stalk in my truck years ago, coming back from northern California and it threw seeds everywhere, in the truck bed and finally a few in my garden. This current plant is the last of that bunch, although if it flowers, I guess I can have many more! Some walnuts sprouting all over the garden, courtesy of the next door neighbor's tree and our busy squirrels. That's about all I can report from Sun Valley. J. Eric Freedner ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Seedless Cherimoya Using Gibberellic Acid? Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 16:13:19 -0400 From: dracademia@aol.com Hi Leo, I am glad to see you last Sat at the Pitaya Festival, healthy and younger. Have you hear about Gibberellic acid(GA3)? Somebody from the Philippines was able to produce a Rambutan without a seed , bigger and sweeter using GA3. Could this be done also in a Cherimoya? Thanks, Herminio mailto:dracademia@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG-North San Diego County Oct. 2006 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2006 09:46:46 -0700 From: Leo Manuel Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Oct. 20 Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Skip Vint, M.D. ÒCreating plant and tree labels that are easy to read and lastÓ Nov. Meeting-Our planned agenda calls for a fruit tasting. Carol Graham our program chair wants to discuss the Nov. meeting program plans at our October meeting before finalizing them. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $8.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30/yr and is required. Chapter dues run from Jan. 1 to Dec. 31. CRFG dues run 1 year from the date you joined. Please mail your $30 CRFG dues to the address in the Fruit Gardener. Make checks payable to CRFG. Send chapter dues to Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92010 <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200610B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - November 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200611A.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> A Glut Of Mango Fruit - This year's abundance of mango fruit is a mixed blessing! If you have tried freezing them, do you add anything to keep them from darkening? Maybe orange juice? I found lots of recipies using mango fruit at http://www.recipe-greeting-cards.com/mango-recipes.htm Lots of Giant Fuyu Persimmons Also - I need to keep the tree pruned to reduce the excess amount of fruit we get. We have two varieties called "Giant Fuyu" with one much thicker than the other. The thicker one frequently gets black at its center. Also, a nice crop of jujubes, fruit about 1.5 inches long, and cylindrical in shape. I like to eat them when they are just turning brown and are crunchy. What has done well for you? Or not so well.... <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber-Fallbrook-Growing Cherimoyas, Avocados Karl Nejely New Subscriber, Vermont, May Work In Costa Rica Steve <><><> Readers Write <><><> Green Sapote in Santa Barbara Alan Schroeder First Fruits: not interesting Alan Schroeder Citrus Leaf Miner JIM WAGNER Re: Heirloom apples Possible Source Richard Frost Jujube Fruit - How Does It Taste? James Freedner Re: Jujube Fruit - How Does It Taste? Leo Manuel To: James Freedner Re: Jujube Fruit - How Does It Taste? James Freedner Muscat Grape Cuttings Wanted Samuel Schwartz Mango Varieties-Green And Sour - Trees Available? TheeAngelWolf@aol.com Re: Mango Varieties-Green And Sour - Trees Available? Leo Manuel To: TheeAngelWolf@aol.com Link for Cloudforest Cafe & My Pictures There Bananaizme@aol.com Grow Persimmon in Container - Possible? N Sterman Re: Grow Persimmon in Container - Possible? Leo Manuel To: N Sterman Want Mango Tree-Fruit Fiberless And Sweet Ray Balcom Dr. Parmar - Trouble With Email Martine Liguori <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm "Living" Mulch Thwarts Pests ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber-Fallbrook-Growing Cherimoyas, Avos Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2006 09:07:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Karl Nejely I am Karl Nejely in Fallbrook, CA, and am growing cherimoyas and avocados. Karl mailto:knejely@mailstation.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Vermont, May Work In Costa Rica Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 20:37:38 -0400 From: Steve Dear Friend, My name is Steve Restmeyer and I live in Chester, Vt. I would like to learn more about rare fruit growing. Please send your newsletter to Lennonite9@aol.com. I am now growing several varieties of fruiting and ornamental bananas indoors. Outdoors, I am growing plums, asian pears, goumi, quince, cornus mas(cornelian cherry), several currant and oosberry varieties, and manage blueberries, apples and grapes for a client. I have recently been invited to work in Costa Rica on occasion to help develop land using permaculture practices so I am interested in learning more about both northern and tropical fruit growing. Thank you. Sincerely, Steve Restmeyer mailto:Lennonite9@aol.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Green Sapote in Santa Barbara Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 17:39:22 -0700 From: Alan Schroeder Dear Leo: Here is an update on my Green Sapote trees, "TREC 32" and "Makawao", here in Santa Barbara. Summer of 2005 both small trees 3-5 feet high flowered profusely but only set a couple fruits each which during the winter fell off except for one on the "TREC 32". This one fruit survived all winter and finally ripened here the first week of October 2006. Conveniently, the fruit turns orange colored from its usual green self when approaching ripeness. I gently jostled it on the trunk of the tree and it fell off into my hand. If I now recollect it took only 5 or so days to soften in my house where it was placed among some Feijoa in a fruit bowl. Once softened I opened it up and relished my first Green Sapote. It was soft and moist fleshed and tastes just like the Mamey "Pantin" I had a couple years ago ie. like a very tasty sweet potato. The unfortunate thing is the fruit itself was only two inches long and less in width. Someone needs to find a large fruited variety of Green Sapote. I definitely recommend the fruit. This last month both trees flowered again, except this time the only fruits to set are on the "Makawao" so lets hope I get to try that fruit next year. Alan Schroeder mailto:arschroeder@cox.net Santa Barbara, CA [Glad you wrote, as we hadn't heard from you for a while. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: First Fruits: not interesting Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2006 17:49:13 -0700 From: Alan Schroeder Dear Leo: This Fall of 2006 I am "enjoying" the first fruits that I have ever had on a couple plants. The first plant is a Grewia asiatica or Phalsa. It was planted from seed several years ago and took a long time to actually fruit although it has flowered for at least the last three years. (Contrary to references which suggest it will quickly flower and fruit from seed). For me it is a small shrub maybe 4-5 feet. The flowers are yellow turning orange along small peduncles on the stems. The fruit are a berry about the size of a small blueberry and very dark blue almost black when ready to pick. The berries are very dry fleshed and while the taste might be considered pleasant in the way a black currant is pleasant with a complex flavor the dryness makes it unpleasant out of hand. Perhaps that is why they make it into a drink like black currant in India. The second plant is the Midyim berry, Australomyrtrus dulcis, that was touted as one of the best bush tucker plants from Australia. The berries are only a few millimeters around with a nice pearlescent color. They taste like most bush tucker - slightly like clove. Not too interesting. Alan Schroeder mailto:arschroeder@cox.net Santa Barbara, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Citrus Leaf Miner Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 14:52:15 -0700 From: Jim Wagner Hello Leo, I have about 4 different Citrus Trees in my yard and recently for the first time I have a "Citrus Leaf Miner" infestation on all of the new growth! I have read that sprays are not too effective. Does anybody have a cure? I would prefer a cheap home remedy! Thanks for your help! Cheers, Jim Wagner mailto:jim@qualspec.net Capistrano Beach, CA [I have a multi-graft citrus tree, with only one variety showing a citrus leaf miner infestation - Oro Blanco pumelo hybrid. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Heirloom apples Possible Source Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2006 21:19:31 -0700 From: Richard Frost There was a very nice article on the Poverty Lane Orchards in the "Fruit Gardener" magazine a few months ago. See http://www.crfg.org/fg.html or http://www.crfgsd.org/ Richard Frost mailto:frost@san.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Jujube Fruit - How Does It Taste? Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 23:48:02 -0700 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo: OK, this may be an odd question, but - what do jujube fruit taste like? I have bought them now and then at Sunland Produce in Sun Valley, a large supplier of fruits and vegetables stocking almost everything. However, the jujubes all seem to taste quite bland to me - very much like styrofoam. Some years back I suffered a long sinus infection that resulted, I am sure, in wiping out a lot of odor receptors in my nose. After that illness, I could no longer taste cherries, among other things. I'm pretty sure I have some permanent percentage of taste loss. Just wondering what the appeal of jujube might be. I have tried cooking them but they just get mushy and pretty awful. J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com Sun Valley, Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jujube Fruit - How Does It Taste? Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 09:30:25 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: James Freedner James The taste of jujube fruit depends on variety and growing conditions, I believe. They taste best to my taste before they begin to shrivel (at which time, they are sweet, without texture.) When they just change from green to brown they are crunchy (watch out for the seed which is pointed, and could catch in the throat.) They are sweeter than apples, with about the same crunchy texture. If you know anyone growing them, try to get one as described and see how you like them. My tree is over halfway through the bearing season. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Jujube Fruit - How Does It Taste? Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 20:28:40 -0700 From: James Freedner Thanks for your information, Leo! I can taste the sweetness of jujube, but not much else to them. I have figured out the fruits are best when apple-green outside, with maybe just a few brown specks. After a few weeks, all those left in the market (Sunland Produce in Sun Valley) are that uniform shade of reddish-brown although inside they are still greenish. Once, some time ago, I detected a faint hint of peppermint in a batch. Otherwise, as I said, not much of a taste sensation to my nose. My little jujube plant died 2 years ago but I may try again with a few seeds from this batch. Perhaps when freshly picked, they retain a bit more flavor, which is typical of a lot of fruits. For what it's worth, canned peaches taste pretty much "blahh" to me also. Not much like the fresh ones! I never quite know how much of a flavor loss I've had over the years, figure it may be 20-30% by now. I guess this happens to most of us anyway, as we age. My mother had very poor taste and smell all of her life, to the point that she never used spice of any kind in her food, as it seemed to make no difference to her. J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com [I would guess that a seedling might make you wait for several years with unpredictable results. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Muscat Grape Cuttings Wanted Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 13:57:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Samuel Schwartz Dear Leo Manuel, My name is Sam Schwartz and I live in Saratoga, CA. My e-mail address is: emale04@sbcglobal.net. Although my small collection of fruit trees could not be classified as rare, I would like to add additional types of fruit trees. I do have one tree that is not so common and is known as a "sweet lemonade tree". We found a nursery in La Honda, CA that carries them. In it's third year of growth after transfer from the nursery, the first small berries are beginning to show. We are told that the American Indians used the berries to make a drink that tastes like sweetened lemonade. We found a tree in Carmel, CA and tried out the berries and the result was an exact copy of real lemonade ! The "California Rare Fruit Growers" held a meeting in San Jose, CA a couple of years ago and gave away clippings of various plants. I managed to get a few grape clippings and a fig tree clipping. I kept them in water for about five months and planted them in the following April. All of the plants did well, and after only 1 1/2 years we got the first grapes from one of the plants. The fig tree flourished and we have been getting figs off of it every few days. Am not sure of the type, but they resemble what was referred to as "lemon figs" in Mississippi with a yellowish-green color when ripe. They are very tasty and I would like to add more fig trees. Am particularly anxious to find some clippings for a Muscat grape of the variety with a distinctive flavor that is best described as almost 'perfumey'. Pardon my lack of real fruit terminology. Perhaps you could steer me to a source. I notice that Guimarra Farms, who supply Muscat grapes to grocery stores, are in Bakersfield. That is a little too far to travel to pick up the clippings, so some location in the Modesto to Stockton part of the Central Valley would be more appropriate if that is possible. If any of the back issues of the magazine that you are able to put on the Internet have articles or ads that could help find Muscat table grapes, I would be appreciative for your assistance. Thank you for your kind attention to my request. Sincerely, Sam Schwartz mailto:emale04@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Mango Varieties-Green And Sour - Trees Available? Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 23:16:18 -0400 (EDT) From: TheeAngelWolf@aol.com Hi, I was wondering if there is anyway to locate any mango trees in California. Ilive in Ventura and my mom lives in Escondido. I like them green and sour it's hard to find. Thanks Erik mailto:TheeAngelWolf@aol.com [Have you tried eating under-ripe mango fruit to see if it is suitable? Many are green and sour before becoming ripe and sweet. Check with local CRFG chapter members to see if they have fruit that you could check. This is a good time to test them. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Mango Varieties-Green And Sour - Trees Available? Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2006 20:28:23 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: TheeAngelWolf@aol.com Eric, Do you want to buy a mango tree or find the fruit that is green and sour. In San Diego at Ranch 99 store on Clairemont Mesa Boulevard you can often buy green (and probably sour) mangos. Lots of growers in Southern California grow mangos and would be happy to sell unripe mango fruit. People from the Orient who like green mango fruit seem to prefer certain varieties of mangoes over others. I can put your request in the next newsletter, if you wish. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Link for Cloudforest Cafe & My Pictures There Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2006 00:12:06 -0400 (EDT) From: William Leo Here is the link for the cloudforest cafe I was telling you about. http://www.cloudforest.com/cafe/ I posted some recent pics of a few things on 10/18 and 10/22. Enjoy the pics. William mailto:Bananaizme@aol.com Visalia Ca ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Grow Persimmon in Container - Possible? Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 16:30:22 -0700 From: N Sterman Hi Leo Do you know whether you can grow a persimmon in a container? Would it fruit? Any issues? If you don't know, can you tell me who might? Thanks! Nan Sterman mailto:NSterman@PlantSoup.Com Encinitas, CA 92023 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Grow Persimmon in Container - Possible? Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2006 18:32:12 -0700 From: Leo Manuel To: N Sterman Hi Nan, I don't know, but I doubt it. Perhaps some newsletter reader will know. There is a "Container Gardener Specialist" office mentioned in CRFG's page, but I don't know who it is. Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Want Mango Tree-Fruit Fiberless And Sweet Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 08:08:24 -0800 From: Ray Balcom Hi Leo: We are trying to get some feedback on large fiber-less sweet tasting mangos grown in the Fallbrook area (San Diego county). so far our base line is limited to carrie, van doc and corinthia, so far carrie is worth expanding, very sweet and fiberless, van split too easily and are too small and corinthia are sweet, too small and very stringy. Ray mailto:raysubtropical@adelphia.net [Have you tried Keitt, or Kent, or Valencia Pride? There are LOTS of excellent mango varieties available to us. -Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dr. Parmar - Trouble With Email Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 18:07:03 -0800 From: Martine Liguori Dear Sir: In 2001, I received a letter from India from Dr. Parmar because I was a CRFG member. I sent for the book 'Rare Fruits' and two of the varieties of the fruit tree seeds which Dr. Parmar had available at the time. I received all plus a letter from Dr. Parmar. I sent $50.-- with the instructions that as seeds became available, to send me some of all 10 fruits varieties. I told him that I was not in a hurry and that after 9/11, a package coming from overseas, Jail road, might worry the authorities. I was in the process of corresponding with another nursery man and was about to ask this nurseryman if he had work with the tree varieties advocated by Dr. Parmar. Before doing so, I figured I better touch base with Dr. Parmar. The web site and the e-mail he gave me in his 2001 letter did not work so I google the info and your newsletter came up and comments Dr. Parmar had made as a consultant. I tried the e-mail posted for Dr. Parmar in your newsletter but my e-mail did not get through. It actually left but was returned after 15 min. Have you been in the past in contact with Dr. Parmar? Is he alright? Have you tried his fruits or do you know people in the US who have tried it? I am interested in his fruits as the region where I shall work has three to four / three to four days of frost a year but very warm and tropical summers and otherwise mild winters. Thank you for your help, M. Liguori mailto:mxl6334@comcast.net [The email address I have for Dr. Parmar is mailto:parmarch@sancharnet.in Let me know if that is the address you have used unsuccessfully. - Leo] <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: "Living" Mulch Thwarts Pests Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2006 07:54:19 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr __________________________________________________ Living mulches help farmers improve soil quality and stave off weeds and erosion. But they may provide another benefit: habitat for beneficial predators that feed on destructive insects. A two-year study by Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Iowa State University scientists--described in this month's issue of Environmental Entomology--lent weight to this long-suspected hypothesis. The research showed that predators killed many more pupae of the costly European corn borer in fields hosting the living mulches than in mulch-free plots. Unlike other types of cover crops, living mulches are not eliminated before planting of the main crop. Entomologists Jarrad Prasifka and Richard Hellmich at the ARS Corn Insects and Crop Genetics Research Unit in Ames, Iowa, and their collaborators used separate plantings of alfalfa and of kura clover, a persistent forage of west Asian origin. The researchers found increases in the number of predators and in the number of pupae the predators consumed in plots holding a rotation of corn, soybean and forage crops. The predators, mostly carabid ground beetles and arachnids, consumed pupae used as "sentinel prey"--that is, prey placed in the field to measure predator activity. Within the living mulches, predatory insects killed 66 percent of the borer pupae planted in corn--a 51 percent increase over nonmulched control plots--and 65 percent of the pupae in soybeans, 13 percent more than in the control plots. Scientists in the Ames unit are conducting similar studies targeting other insect pests. Living mulches may not provide sufficient pest suppression when used alone and often need to be suppressed themselves to prevent competition with the main crop, according to Prasifka. But they can be an important component of an integrated pest management program. Also, studies have shown that using legumes as living mulches may reduce the need for fertilizer by providing nitrogen to the main crop. It may also lead to yields equaling or exceeding those produced through conventional methods. ARS is the U.S. Department of AgricultureÕs chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200611A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - November 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200611B.txt _______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> Have you ever been successful in determining when a mango will bear fruit? My Pen Sen Mun (various spellings) has for several years begun to bloom now in November, and stays in full bloom through the winter, but never sets a fruit. My hope is that by removing all blooms through the cold months, it will bloom during the warmer months, set fruit, and I will be able to evaluate the fruit. I'm sorely tempted to graft it over to something more suited to our climate. What do you think? I have a dozen or so fruit on the Turpentine mango trees. The flavor of the fruit is pleasing in spite of the considerable fiber it contains. The seedlings are used as rootstock in Puerto Rico and are polyembryonic. If any of you living nearby want to pick up fruit at my home, let me know. Several of you wrote to tell of your fruiting succeses. Thanks! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber Myrnavargas@cs.com New Subscriber, Texas-Growing Rare Fruit In Greenhouse Kristi Elliott <><><> Readers Write <><><> Black sapote fruit wanted won tokd Re: Black sapote fruit wanted won tokd Bumper crop of Mulberies - S.E. Queensland, Australia Barry Hicks Re: Grape Cuttings Sought Amy Fernandez To: Sam Re: Grow Persimmon in Container - Possible? "Joel A. Johnson" To: N Sterman Growing Persimmon in Container Mike O'Gara To: Nan Sternam Neem and citrus leaf miners - conditionally effective! Amy Fernandez To: Jim Citrus Leaf Miner Controls I Recommend Richard Frost To: Jim Re: Leaf Miner on citrus Doug Young Leafminer in Citrus Mike O'Gara This Year Of Mangos! Eunice Messner CRFG S.D. North County Chapter November, 2006 Leo Manuel Decline of Bananas - More Information Sought Mike O'Gara New book on Brazilian Tropical Fruits Marco Lacerda Pineapple Guava - Strange Side Effect Of Eating Brian Carroll Our Encinitas, CA Fruit Keith Stone Please Help Me Locate Potawatomi Plums "Sharp, Annette" Central Valley, CA-Report of Fruit-And Pear Question Linda Re: Freezing Mango Fruit James Freedner Saijo Persimmon Recommendation Doug Jones My Miracle Fruit Tree Had Bumper Crop! Laurie Re: My Miracle Fruit Tree Had Bumper Crop! Leo Manuel To: Laurie Re: My Miracle Fruit Tree Had Bumper Crop! timnovida@aol.com Re: Freezing Mango Fruit Steve Miciak Re: Freezing Mango Fruit Brian Hopson CRFG S.D. Chapter November Newsletter Leo Manuel <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers: See William Ross <><><> CRFG Container Gardening Editor mailto:pursebox@vermontel.net None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Huanglongbing, Exotic Citrus Disease Targeted ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 11:59:59 -0500 From: Myrnavargas@cs.com Hi, Kindly include my e-mail address for news regarding rarefruits/gardening tips etc. Thanks Myrna Vargas mailto:Myrnavargas@cs.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Texas-Growing Rare Fruit In Greenhouse Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2006 15:56:28 -0600 From: Kristi Elliott Hi! My name is Kristi Elliott and I live in Alvin, TX. (between Houston and Galveston) The only unusual fruit tree I have at the moment is cherimoya. I also have tropical almond, coconut and several types of citrus. Anything interesting around here has to be grown in a greenhouse or brought in during the winter. I would dearly love to have a breadfruit tree. I am interested in any exotic fruit though. I am a member of the California Rare Fruit Growers too. Nothing too interesting about me other than that I love animals as much as rare fruit. Luckily they are easier to get so I have 12 cats and 3 dogs. My only question: Is there anybody else in this area with the same interests??? Kristi Elliott, maillto:cattyk@hughes.net www.marykay.com/kristielliott <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Black sapote fruit wanted Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 15:50:56 -0800 (PST) From: K L Dear Sir/Madam, Would you have any idea of where I could find black sapote? Thanks KL mailto:oil2x@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: black sapote fruit wanted Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 20:24:38 -0800 (PST) From: K L Hi Leo Thanks for your email. I live in Illinois so I think the tree is out of the picture -unfortunately- the fruit would be a real good compromise though! Any leads you could provide would be great! Thanks KL mailto:oil2x@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Bumper crop of Mulberies - S.E. Queensland, Australia Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 15:51:48 +1000 From: Barry Hicks G'day Leo, Greeting from Beerwah in S.E. Queensland, Australia. You asked "what did well for you" in the latest RFNO so I am sending a couple of brag snaps of the crop a got on a dwarf mulberry, variety unknown. The branches were vertical until the weight of fruit bent them over. The tree is about 3 1/2 years old. Regards Barry Hicks mailto:barryhicks@westnet.com.au Name: P9060015.JPG Type: JPEG Image (image/jpeg) Name: P9060014.JPG Type: JPEG Image (image/jpeg) ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Grape Cuttings Sought Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 08:31:59 -0800 From: Amy Fernandez To: Sam Sam, you might try Lon Rombough. I have purchased cuttings from him at a very reasonable price which he sent through the mail. They did very well. mailto:lonrom@bunchgrapes.com webpage at www.bunchgrapes.com He has a blog at http://lonrombough.livejournal.com/ He says: "SEEKING RARE VARIETIES. Information on how and where to find rare varieties is given in "The Grape Grower". Otherwise, variety searches are now charged as consulting. "STORING ORDERS. Your cuttings are packed so YOU can store them several weeks at 32 to 45 degrees (0 to 7 degrees Celcius), until rooting time. Grape cuttings travel well, even in cold weather, having no tender roots to freeze. I DO NOT HOLD ORDERS. When an order is ready, I have to ship it as I don't have space to hold it unless you want to pay an extra fee." Amy Fernandez mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Grow Persimmon in Container - Possible? Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 19:04:53 -0800 From: "Joel A. Johnson" To: N Sterman Nan, Last spring I bought a couple persimmon trees, but never got around to planting them. Both were in 5 gallon nursery pots, with trunks ~1 inch in diameter. Like most nursery stock, they were not in prime health or form. I just harvested 2 fruits off the Chocolate variety and 1 off the Maru. Also, the trees at the nurseries around here (Pasadena, CA) generally have some fruit on them. As long as you aren't hoping for large crops, I suspect the persimmon would make a fine container plant (at least for a while...). A 15 gallon pot, with some depth to accommodate the tap root, would probably support a 6 foot tree with a couple dozen fruit (only a guess). You *might* be able to get up to a couple dozen small fruit like Chocolate, but I'd realistically expect only a dozen or so. And maybe only half that much with a large fruit like Hachiya. You'll have to tell us if the tree accepts such a home, or continues its aspirations to be big ;-) -Joel Johnson mailto:joel@aridscapes.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Persimmon in Container Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:32:09 -0500 (EST) From: Mike O'Gara To: Nan Sternam My name is Mike O'Gara I live in Sun Valley Ca which is a small area in the San Fernando Valley next to North Hollywood. I presently have a Giant Fuyu Persimmon growing in a container. I bought this tree about three years ago at a field trip to nurseries. I brought it home and put it in a clay pot from Mexico about 24" high by 24" wide it stayed in there for two years and last spring I built a couple of planters from redwood. The sides are two 2X12 and one 2X6 which actually measure 29". I cut the lumber 30" long. My planter measures 29" square by 30" deep. The Fuyu presently has 14 large fruit on it and the tree is six foot five inches tall. I think you can grow persimmons in containers. Nan, Give it a go! Mike O'Gara mailto:WTS4DNR@aol.com Sun Valley Ca 91352 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Neem and citrus leaf miners - conditionally effective! Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 20:35:21 -0800 From: Amy Fernandez To: Jim My first thought was Neem for citrus leaf miners. Effectiveness of Two Biorational Substances (Neem and Abamectin) Against Citrus Leaf Miner F. W. Howard Associate Professor of Entomology In southeastern Florida, citrus trees serve both as fruit trees and ornamentals. Recently, I tested two biorationals, azadirachtin and abamectin, both of which are essentially non-toxic to mammals, for effectiveness against the citrus leaf miner [Phyllocnistis citrella Stainton (Lepidoptera: Gracillariidae)], a pest that is native to Asia and new to Florida. Materials and Methods Seedlings of sweet lime (Citrus limettioides Tanaka) were kindly supplied to us by Charles Youtsey of the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumers Services, Winter Haven. These were about 0.3 m tall and with about 30 leaves each, growing in a medium of equal parts of muck, sharp and and cypress sawdust in 15 cm dia plastic containers. They were initially kept in a screen cage to protect them from attack by citrus leaf miner. Each plant was fertilized on September 1, 1993, with a soil application of 5 g 18N-6P-8K Osmocote and removed from the cage and placed near an orange tree [C. sinensis (L.) Osbeck] infested with citrus leaf miner. Twelve plants each were assigned at random to either of 2 different treatments or an untreated control. The treatments were: (1) Avid (abamectin 0.15 EC)(MSD Agvet, Merck & Co., Rahway, New Jersey) at 0.312 ml / l H2O (4 fl.oz. / 100 gal.), (2) Azatin (Agridyne Technologies, Inc., Salt Lake City, Utah) at 2 ml / l H2O (60 ppm azadirachtin) + 0.5 ml / l H2O Triton B-1956 spreader-sticker (Rhom & Haas Co., Philadelphia, PA). The treatments were applied weekly for 4 weeks beginning September 9. Upper and lower leaf surfaces were sprayed to run-off using a 2-liter handsprayer. Plants were examined for leaf miners on September 17 (one week after the first spraying) and weekly thereafter for four weeks. The number of leaves with mines per plant was determined. For comparing the treatments, only the leaves with well-developed mines and which were curled due to the leaf miner damage were counted. Mines in initial stages that did not cause significant damage or curling of leaves were noted separately. Numbers of leaves with advanced mines per plant were transformed with the x + 0.5 transformation before analysis by ANOVA and the means tested for significance with the Waller Duncan t-test. At the end of the four week period, leaves with mines were removed from the plants and examined under the microscope to determine the fate of leaf miners in the different treatment groups. Results Citrus leaf miner damage was observed on newly flushed leaves, but not on hardened-off leaves. About 50 % of the plants in each treatment group and the control flushed during the 4-week period of the experiment and thus were susceptible to attack by leaf miners. During this period, leaf miners did not complete mines in leaves of the plants treated with Avid or Azatin. By comparison, at the end of the 4-week period, 58.3 % of the plants in the control group had well-developed leaf miner damage accompanied by leaf curl. There was a mean of 2.84 leaves with well-developed mines per plant in the control compared to 0 leaves with well-developed mines in the Avid- and Azatin-treated group (P < 0.05). Examination in the laboratory of leaves from plants in the control group revealed several empty pupal cases rolled in leaf edges, indicating that leaf miners had completed development to adult. Some late instar larvae were also seen. The plants treated with Avid remained completely free of leaf miner damage. By October 1, 33 % of the plants treated with Azatin had 1 to 7 incipient mines. By October 8, 50 % of the Azatin-treated plants had incipient mines, and the incipient mines observed on October 8 had not progressed. These mines were observed again on October 15 and had not progressed and there was no leaf curl. Thus, although leaf miners initiated mines in the leaves, the Azatin treatment protected the leaves from being damaged significantly. These results indicate that the 2 biorationals tested prevent damage by citrus leaf miners when sprayed on leaves prior to oviposition by this insect. Thus sprays must be timed just as trees are flushing, which may be expected to be different for different species and varieties of citrus and, as in the case of our test plants, for different individual plants. Further information is needed to determine the minimum effective dosage, maximum intervals between applications, and other parameters. Alternating treatments with azadirachtin and abamectin and possibly other compounds in the interest of insect resistance management needs to be investigated, as well as the potential effect of these compounds on beneficial insects. Azadirachtin and abamectin products are potentially useful for controlling citrus leaf miner. http://flrec.ifas.ufl.edu/tropicline/Volume6(6).htm One may find products containing Neem at the nurseries and also at www.gardensAlive.com by different names It is significant that some of these pests are resistant to pesticides, or are inherently difficult to control with conventional pesticides. (floral thrips, diamond back moth and several leaf miners). Most Neem products belong to the category of medium to broad spectrum pesticides, i.e., they are effective over a wide range of pests. Using neem derivatives for managing pests is a non-violent approach to controlling pests. Neem products work by intervening at several stages of the insect's life. They may not kill the pest instantaneously but incapacitate it in several ways. Neem very subtly employs effects such as repellence, feeding and ovipositional deterrence, growth inhibition, mating disruption, chemo-sterilization, etc. These are now considered far more desirable than a quick knock-down in integrated pest management programs as they reduce the risk of exposing pests' natural enemies to poisoned food or starvation. The action of Neem products fulfills all priorities among environmental objectives. This unique tree is perhaps the most significant example of how nature can combine diverse functions i.e., the action of de-oiled Neem cake as a pesticide cum fertilizer http://www.neemfoundation.org/organic%20farming.htm Amy mailto:marvelousgardens@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Citrus Leaf Miner Controls I Recommend Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 21:22:01 -0800 From: Richard Frost To: Jim Hi Jim, I'm Richard Frost, I work for Walter Andersen Nurseries in San Diego. The citrus leaf miner has been around for about 5 years now -- sooner or later they will find all the citrus trees. There are no natural predators at the time, although some Pheobes have been noticed to eat the bugs. The adults are quite small, and lay their eggs in NEW leaves. As the leaf grows, it is often contorted by the eggs. When the eggs hatch a few months later, they eat their way through the leaf forming the mosaic pattern, and then eventually enter adulthood, repeating the cycle. Note that damage is not apparent until 2 or 3 months after the eggs have been injected. Spraying "Spinosaid" monthly is effective. When you see new leaf growth on a tree (1/8 or 1/4 inch in size), spray immediately and adjust your monthly schedule. Spinosaid is a bacteria. It penetrates the leaf structure and feeds on the eggs. The product label(s) in California say use up to 5 times per season. California defines 3 agricultural seasons, so apparently the limit is 15 times per year. You can eat the fruit the same day of treatment (with washing). Spinosaid is not the entire answer. You need to also control the adults. Bayer "Power Force" Insecticide is very effective if sprayed once a month -- or every three weeks during peak adult period (May through September). You can eat the fruit the same day of treatment (with washing). The Bayer product contains Cyfluthrin, a synthetic pyrethrin -- which you should feel comfortable with. Digging deeply into the Material Data Safety Sheet -- it also contains Napthalene -- which gives it staying power. You might recognize Napthalene from some moth ball products. Another product on the market that should effectively control Citrus Leaf Miner is "Green Light Fruit Tree Spray". It is an all-in-one solution containing insecticide, miticide, and fungicide. I am currently testing it in my own orchard but there have been positive testimonials from Citrus groves in Texas. Note that since it is based on low-impact chemicals, it needs to be applied every two weeks to be effective. Richard Frost mailto:frost@san.rr.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Leaf Miner on citrus Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 16:11:55 -0800 (PST) From: Doug Young Concerning Jim Wagner's Leaf Miner problem on his citrus, I had a very severe infestation this summer and it was eradicated with one spraying of the Monterey Garden Spray, which is natural, and which I purchased from Peaceful Farms Garden Supply, www.groworganic.com for 11.99. Doug Young - El Cajon mailto:douglasyo@sbcglobal.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Leafminer in Citrus Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:42:27 -0500 (EST) From: Mike O'Gara I too have about four kinds of dwarf citrus growing in pots with serious infestation from what I think are leaf miners. I have two large citrus, a delicious Tangelo and a poor grapefruit planted in the ground, which do have some of the problem but not huge. A friend of mine in North Hollywood also has the problem. I have tried insecticidal soap and then went to Malathion. Neither seems to have worked. If you figure out a low cost solution please post it. Mike O'Gara mailto:WTS4DNR@aol.com Sun Valley Ca 91352 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: This Year Of Mangos! Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 09:19:51 -0800 (PST) From: Eunice Messner Leo... This was certainly the year of the mango. The only problem was they all ripened at once. Not the usual maybe September to January. A lot of my 18 trees are seedlings. Two that fruited for the first time are winners. One is large and very colorful. The other, a Manila type, I am going to call Coconilla for it has a slight coconut flavor. Outstanding flavor! No fiber in either one which is a great plus. My Manila type 'Thomson' does have some fiber. I had bushels of my registered 'Carnival'. I sell most of them at my weekly farmers market at my church. The rest I freeze (they maintain their color) or I dehydrate them. These will turn brownish if they are too ripe. I also made mango marmalade. Even traded some for a meal at a Vietnamese restaurant besides giving a lot away. The last to fruit is a very large green one that eventually turns yellow. Too big for commercial sales. Only one was not a winner, so I will cut most of it back and graft it next summer. If anyone wants to come by for sampling they are welcome. I am reluctant to clean and mail seeds Eunice Messner, mailto:eunicemessner3203@sbcglobal.net Anaheim Hills, CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG S.D. North County Chapter November, 2006 Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 14:08:10 -0800 From: Leo Manuel Meetings are usually held the 3rd Friday, 7 PM at Mira Costa College One Bernard Dr., Oceanside Nov. 17 7PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Fruit Tasting DEC. 17 12 noon The PierceÕs Home Xmas Party Jan. 19 7 PM Mira Costa-Rm. T402-Bldg. T400 Scion Exchange CRFGÕs website: http://www.crfg.org NCSD Chapter website: members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg Nov. Meeting-Our November meeting will be Nov. 17 at Mira Costa Room 402 bldg T400 at 7 PM. We will discuss our agenda for next year and the program will be a fruit tasting. Members can bring fresh fruit or something they have prepared from fruit, to share with other members. Festival of Fruit-The 2007 Festival of Fruit will be August 7-12. The theme is year of the Mango and it will be in San Diego. Our chapter memberÕs participation as volunteers will be vital to its success. So, please keep this in mind as you plan your summer. Christmas Party-This year we will have our annual potluck Christmas party at the home of Ben & Terry Pierce. Their address is 713 Ruskin Place San Marcos. Their phone number is 760-744-4716. MEMBERSHIP-Chapter Dues are $8.00/yr. CRFG Membership is $30 /yr and is required. Send chapter dues to Jim Rockoff 2605 Avenida De Anita #73 Carlsbad CA 92010 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Decline of Bananas - More Information Sought Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:53:28 -0500 (EST) From: Mike O'Gara Hi Leo, First of all thank you for all that you do. It was great to see you at the two recent seminars, on pitahaya, conducted by Edgar Valdiva. I was saddened to hear from Edgar that he recently heard from an expert that there was a bug or disease killing off all the bananas somewhere in the world. Was it Asia? He said this problem had not yet come to Central America BUT like the killer bees we could possibly see it in 10 years time. Could you please find someone who could possibly write an article on this subject to enlighten us. I believe this is a problem when to many of us find a fruit overseas that we bring into this Country, which can cause massive damage to our Agriculture Industry. Mike O'Gara mailto:WTS4DNR@aol.com Sun Valley Ca 91352 ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New book on Brazilian Tropical Fruits Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 00:28:46 -0200 From: Marco Lacerda Please find below the link to the newest book on Brazilian Fruits (over 1,200 color photos and 827 fruits), which is available in English: http://www.plantarum.com.br/prod_26.htm Marco Lacerda mailto:marcolacerda@terra.com.br ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pineapple Guava - Strange Side Effect Of Eating Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 17:17:05 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Carroll Hello Leo: I had a very strange experience with my pineapple guavas. I took several to school and gave my 5th graders a taste. Out of 30 students, four immediately became very drowsy. The response lasted a little over an hour, there was no other symptom, and they came out of it with no treatment of any kind. I've looked all over on the web, and found nothing mentioning anything like it. Have you ever heard of this? --Brian Carroll mailto:bcarroll49@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Our Encinitas, CA Fruit Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 01:11:41 -0500 (EST) From: Keith Stone Hi there : We are Keith and Deb, residents in Encinitas Ca. We are growing ( or trying) the following: Litchi, Longan, Figs, apples, kiwi, pomagranites, lemons. We just added "baby" Guava, miracle fruit and blueberries... Thanks Keith Stone mailto:ROCK1123@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Please Help Me Locate Potawatomi Plums Date: Tue, 07 Nov 2006 08:43:20 -0600 From: "Sharp, Annette" Dear Betty and Leo, My name is Annette Sharp. A dear friend of mine living in Utah has described to me a seemingly rare Potawatomi Plum tree that she knew growing up and has had a few ÒsightingsÓ recently. The value of this particular plum tree is the type of jelly that is made from the fruit - spectacular! Any help finding a place to purchase a tree for her or root cuttings would be deeply appreciated! Many thanks! Annette mailto:asharp@censara.org ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Central Valley, CA-Report of Fruit-And Pear Question Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 22:58:05 -0800 From: Linda - The Lavender Lady Hello Leo, I have a jelly palm, Butia capitata, which has just fruited. I am so excited. The tree was planted two years ago from a five gallon pot and it is now putting on lots of branches of fruit. The fruits are still green and it is November. I am wondering what the fruits look like when they are ripe, when the fruits will ripen, and if they will be affected if we get a frost? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. My Buddha's Hand is producing lots of fruit - planted spring 2005 from a one gallon container. My Rio Red grapefruit, semi-dwarf rootstock, also has lots of fruit - can't wait to try these. My Red Haven and Fay Alberta peaches, planted bare root February 2005 produced a nice crop of peaches this summer. One of my Fuji apples, also 2005 bareroot, produced 12 apples - then deer discovered my property this year and they ate 10 - so I only got 2. I am disappointed with my Lady Finger grapes which are supposed to be seedless and are not - they have tough thick skins and are not very tasty. My Black Monukka on the other hand are a wonderful early season red seedless grape which I highly recommend - the mocking birds like them too - Ha! Does anyone have any recommendations on good pear varieties to grow for the Central Valley? I love pears and would like to plant a few. Also I am thinking of planting a row of satsuma's - any recommendations on some good varieties and where to purchase some trees this coming spring? We have such hot summers here - and as many of you may know this past summer was the one from 'you know where' - 118 F for about 3 weeks. A couple of young trees I had just couldn't handle the heat, and died down to their roots and are now sprouting from the base (Hawthorne and Pussy Willow). Some of my fruit trees seem to have sun burned bark - is it recommended to paint the trunks with a white latex paint? Should I thin the paint - or is there another treatment recommended to protect the bark of young fruit trees and possibly some ornamental trees? Thanks in advance for any advice. Linda Starr mailto:mtnstar@ocsnet.net Springville Lavender Gardens Zone 9, California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Freezing Mango Fruit Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 21:09:47 -0800 From: James Freedner Hi, Leo, Never knew mango fruits could be frozen in any manner. At least, not raw and with expectation of reviving them later. My mother would cook up our excess mangoes into a preserve, using sugar and maybe some spices and then freeze that. It was OK but never approached the smoothness of store-bought jellies and preserves, the mango being a somewhat fibrous fruit. I would guess that mangoes could also be cooked in this manner and preserved by vacuum sealing in Mason Jars but have no direct experience with that. J. Eric Freedner mailto:Freedner@msn.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Saijo Persimmon Recommendation Date: Sun, 05 Nov 2006 19:25:32 -0700 From: Doug Jones Just short note from Mesa Az..... The persimmons are starting to ripen on my 8 trees. The best by far is the Saijo. It's very soft and sweet. The Fuyu's are nice to eat crunchy or soft, but don't have near the flavor of the Saijo. Much better than the Hachiya. Doug mailto:fruitguy@cox.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: My Miracle Fruit Tree Had Bumper Crop! Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 14:13:09 -0500 From: Laurie Leo, I have a plethora of Miracle Fruit in Hawaii. Took about 350 berries off one 4' shrub. Laurie mailto:timnovida@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: My Miracle Fruit Tree Had Bumper Crop! Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 16:59:25 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Laurie Hi Laurie, The 'Miracle' for me has been to keep them alive. Do you use tap water for irrigating them? That's fantastic to hear. Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: My Miracle Fruit Tree Had Bumper Crop! Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 20:36:18 -0500 From: timnovida@aol.com Leo, I water my potted (Miracle Fruit) plant right from the hose every other day. Grow in flitered light or semi-shade. Throw Miracid or Azalea food on it every 6-8 weeks. Have to net it to keep the birds off. Laurie mailto:timnovida@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Freezing Mango Fruit Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 21:10:32 -0500 (EST) From: Steve Miciak I've found that if you freeze them slightly less than fully ripe they last at least a year! I've kept Kent for over a year frozen and it still tastes delicious when thawed. Steve Miciak mailto:MeeChuck3@aol.com Davis Islands, Tampa, FL ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Freezing Mango Fruit Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 10:59:20 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Hopson I put mangos in a plastic bag & vacuum-seal the bag with a food bag vacuum appliance, Sears, walmart & kmart sells this electric kitchen appliance. Brian Hopson mailto:bhop31@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: CRFG S.D. Chapter November Newsletter Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 18:43:16 -0800 From: Leo Manuel Note Meeting Date Change: Friday, November 17, 2006 General Meeting & Nominations: 7:00 Ð 7:45 pm Program: 7:45 pm Ð 8:30 pm Fruit Tasting: 8:30 Ð 8:50 pm Opportunity Drawing: 8:50 pm Meeting Place Rm. 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park, San Diego Chair: David Silverstein mailto:chair@crfgsandiego.org The View from the Chair Greetings friends! It is November, and our year is winding down. This meeting coming up is an important one, and not just because it is going to cover winter pruning of deciduous fruit trees, though that is important. This is the nominating meeting. We will nominate the candidates who will run for the elective offices, the Board positions that will govern the chapter for the next year. And I donÕt know about you, but I feel like a little bit of change would do the Chapter good. And I donÕt think that IÕm alone in that. IÕve actually been hearing from people who are considering running for some offices. That is refreshing. It means people want their chance to make things better. This will be different from the last couple of years, so I think I should go over the nominating procedures. The Nominating Procedures for SD Chapter Election It goes like this. Any member in good standing (current membership) can nominate any member in good standing. If another member in good standing seconds that nomination, then that nominee is duly nominated upon acceptance of the nomination. They can decline, of course. The other way for a member in good standing to get nominated is to declare interest in an elective office. In that case, two other members in good standing have to ÒsecondÓ or endorse the interested person (declarer). If endorsed by two others, the declarer is nominated. Either way, two members besides the declarer have to ÒsecondÓ a member to be a candidate. If a member canÕt get two other members to ÒsecondÓ or ÒendorseÓ him or her, then he or she will not be considered a candidate. A candidate can only be nominated for one position. The Elective Offices The elective offices in our chapter are as follows. Chair, Vice Chair, Treasurer, Program and Event Coordinator, and Secretary. Positions traditionally appointed by the Board are: Greeter, Facilities Team, Librarian, Newsletter Editor, and Webmaster. The Membership responsibilities is currently handled by the Vice Chair. Program: Winter Pruning of Deciduos Trees Our very own Tom del Hotal, will talk about winter pruning. Tom holds advanced certifications from the California Association of Nursery and Garden Centers, and offers fruit tree pruning and orchard or landscape consultations. A part-time horticulture instructor at Southwestern College, he works full-time at The Home Depot as a sales associate and as the district trainer for the garden department. TomÕs Lemon Grove nursery, Fantasia Gardens, features exotic fruits and other unusual plants, with the emphasis on edibles. For membership, please mail your Application/Renewal & Check ($13) to CRFG, San Diego Chapter C/O Paul Fisher 1266 Vista Del Monte Dr. El Cajon, CA 92020 Candidates Announcement in December Newsletter Those nominated at the November meeting for the elective offices will be announced in the December Newsletter. Cast Your Vote on Friday, Dec. 15th Meeting Only current members with their membership dues will be provided Election Ballots to cast their votes. Please bring your December Newsletter Ð showing your Address Label Ð to receive your Ballot. If you donÕt have your December Newsletter available with you, please check at the GreeterÕs Table to confirm your membership status. <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Huanglongbing, Exotic Citrus Disease Targeted Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 07:57:41 -0400 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr __________________________________________________ Huanglongbing, an exotic citrus disease thatÕs also known as citrus greening, is the focus of the top-ranked research proposal in the Agricultural Research Service's (ARS) 2007 Postdoctoral Research Award Program. California-based ARS plant physiologist Hong Lin wrote the proposal, which received the highest score in the agencyÕs annual in-house competition. He will receive the agency's T.W. Edminster Award and $120,000 to fund a two-year postdoctoral position in his laboratory at the ARS San Joaquin Valley Agricultural Sciences Center near Parlier, Calif. Lin also will be honored at the ARS annual awards ceremony in 2007. The postdoc that Lin hires will work with him to develop a fast, reliable test to detect the microbe that causes Huanglongbing, or HLB, in oranges, lemons and other familiar citrus. Early and reliable detection of the microbe--a bacterium known to scientists as Candidatus Liberibacter--is essential to stopping its spread, according to Lin. The new diagnostic test will be based on analysis of samples of the culprit microbe's genetic material, or DNA. The bacterium was detected in the United States for the first time in 2005, in Florida. It can weaken or kill citrus trees or cause them to stop bearing fruit. Tiny, winged insects known as psyllids spread the microbe. Huanglongbing also occurs in the tropics and subtropics of Asia, India, Africa and South America. Also under the ARS 2007 Postdoctoral Research Award Program, another 49 ARS scientists from around the country will receive $100,000 to fund two-year postdoc positions. Their investigations will cover such subjects as determining the effectiveness of fruit and vegetable compounds in preventing cancer and other diseases, improving corn plants' ability to withstand drought, finding genetic markers that predict pork quality, and exploring a high-tech approach to detecting pathogens on food. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200611B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - December 1, 2006 - AKA RFN200612A.txt ______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> This is and will continue to be a busy time for you as you get together with friends and relatives for holiday feasts and begin buying gifts and sending Christmas greetings. That undoubtedly explains why there has been so few letters from you. But I hope you will write when you can, with gardening news, and other items of interest to other readers. By the way, today (November 30) is our 54th anniversary, so this issue could be delayed a day.... How does a fruit fanatic deal with diabetes? I'm not yet a diabetic, but the lab results of my last physical point to being borderline, with cautions about eating sweets. The plethora of mango and persimmon fruit - although the end of the season is about here - and the other sweet fruit the rest of the year, has me thinking about which trees to remove or restrict their production. Bananas are about to be removed anyway, and some of our citrus trees may be next. Our daughter who is a pediatrician has been reminding me of the glycemic index of foods - high is worse, low is better - and most of my favorite fruits are rather high. Her recommendation is that I don't eat fruits such as mangoes every day. It's not going to be easy! <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> None this time <><><> Readers Write <><><> Miracle Berries shirley dellerson Pummola Joseph Shary Re: Pummola (Pomelo, Pomello, Shaddock) Leo Manuel To: Joseph Shary Dehydrate Miracle Fruit - Ever Try It? Leo Manuel To: Laurie Re: Dehydrate Miracle Fruit - Ever Try It? Laurie Details on the Olive Trees to the 164th in Iraq Joe Sabol <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers: See William Ross <><><> CRFG Container Gardening Editor mailto:pursebox@vermontel.net None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm Autumn King Seedless Grapes: Big and Luscious ARS News Service Citrus Disease Targeted ARS News Service -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> None this time <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: Miracle Berries Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2006 12:59:52 -0500 From: Shirley Dellerson Hi Laurie: I get crops at least twice a year from my Miracle Berry shrub and freeze most of them. I always have a supply in the freezer. Freezing keeps the "miracle" in the berry whereas heating destroys that property. They keep for about 8 months. I don't even have them in a baggie - just a bowl so I can grab some when I want to impress friends. Shirley mailto:shaindy@mindspring.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Pummola Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 19:50:38 -0500 From: Joseph Shary What is a pummolaÉ.while shopping in Costco, I first thought it was a large grapefruit. Would appreciate a brief description as to taste and origin of country. Thanks, Joseph mailto:jjshary@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Pummola (Pomelo, Pomello, Shaddock) Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 18:56:41 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Joseph Shary If you want to search on Google, try spelling it pomelo or pomello. Below's a little about it, but there is much more. Leo Manuel From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pomelo Pomelo The pomelo is also called shaddock after an English sea captain, Captain Shaddock, who introduced the seed to the West Indies in the 17th Century from the Malay Archipelago. In the Pacific and Asia, it is known as the jabong and in Chinese it is called /y˜uzi/ (??) (It should not be confused with the yuzu ), while it is called /som o/ (?????) in Thai. The pulp color ranges between clear pale yellow to pink to red, and tastes like a sweet, mild grapefruit. It is the largest citrus fruit, growing as large as 30 cm in diameter and weighing as much as 10 kg; the peel is thick, and sometimes used to make marmalade . The grapefruit is a hybrid between the pomelo and the orange. In some markets, grapefruits or pomelo/grapefruit crosses will also be sold as "pomelo" or "pummelo". The tangelo is a hybrid between the pomelo and the tangerine . It has a thicker skin than a tangerine and is less sweet. It can usually be found in grocery stores in the United States from the late fall until early spring and is sometimes thought of as a Christmas fruit. The peel of the pomelo is also used in Chinese cooking or candied. In general citrus peel is often used in southern Chinese cuisine for flavouring, especially in sweet soup desserts. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Dehydrate Miracle Fruit - Ever Try It? Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2006 19:23:58 -0800 From: Leo Manuel To: Laurie Hi Laurie I was surprised to see several ripening fruit on my miracle fruit bush. Did you say you had frozen them? For how long? How about dehydrating them? Tried that? Take care, Leo ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dehydrate Miracle Fruit - Ever Try It? Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 02:38:50 -0500 (EST) From: Timnovida@aol.com Leo, Congratulations on the fruit. I notice they grow quickly once pollinated. The 10-12" shrubs sell for $18 in a gallon pot at Home Depot in Hawaii. I have a nursery friend Mable Chua in Manila who has an order for 40,000 plants. I do not know where she is selling them but the Japanese are goofy for the berries and pay $3.75 USD per tablet so there is a big demand. One fellow freeze dries his fruit to supply a cafe that specializes in diet restricted stuff http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/10158005/. No, did not dehydrate or freeze berries, but ate them fresh. The fruit is not part of controlling my diet even though I have diabetes. The shrub fruits about 4-5 times a year. I pull off the bird netting after each crop to give the bees access. The Miracle berry shrub is a bizarre novelty plant for me, I do not really consider it giving me a food crop like my Goji berries or warm weather blueberries. I never dreamed the shrubs would grow so big in a pot. My Aunt's shrub is 9' tall and grows in the ground in semi-shade and bears very little fruit, has magnificent foliage. My key is feeding azalea fertilizer every 6-8 weeks. I like this technique...almost no brains needed. After you eat the fruit, spit out the pit, poke the seed into 4" pot immediately after eating because germination is best (almost 100%) when fruit is fully ripe, successful germination goes down sharply with each passing day. I use a chopstick that I marked 1" and 1/2" at the ends. Poke a 1" deep hole, put the seed in it, press down 1/2" and cover with soil. Water gently. Fertilize weekly, weakly after about 10 leaves are out using liquid fertilizer, later go for time-release acid fertilizer granules after plant is vigorous. Laurie mailto:timnovida@aol.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Details on the Olive Trees to the 164th in Iraq From: "Joe Sabol" Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2006 21:59:49 -0800 Dear Talia and Friends: The California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG) are honored to be asked to assist with the Olive Tree Planting Project! Listed below are some of the facts and details regarding our efforts so far: 1. The CRFG is a non-profit organization with more than 20 chapters in California, Nevada, and Arizona. Our numbers are over 2,500 with individual members all over the world. Education is one of our primary goals! See our website at: CRFG.org Olives are a "rare fruit" for us in this situation! 2. Our President, Bill Grimes, received the original request for 164 olive trees from MSG Patricia Marsano stationed at the big Anaconda Military Base in Iraq. Bill Grimes sent the note to the Board of Directors. I am one of those Directors and jumped on the project quickly. I live in San Luis Obispo and am an active member of the Central Coast Chapter of CRFG. 3. Olive trees are in great demand in California, not easy to find. Fortunately, a good friend and member of CRFG, Mr. Tom Burchell, had some small olive trees that he could sell to us at a very special price. We asked him for 200 trees! Tom is the President of Burchell Nursery in Oakdale California and he quickly became a full partner in our efforts! See Burchell Nursery website at: http://www.burchellnursery.com/ 4. The olive trees are small, currently growing in 4 inch containers. They are called "rooted cuttings" and need NOT be grafted or budded to known varieties. They are not seedlings. They ARE essentially "clones" of known and proven olive varieties. We asked him to provide us with a variety of types, both for oil and for olives to process and eat. The CRFG will purchase these 200 trees from the Burchell Nursery and donate them to the 164th CSG at no cost. We are honored and excited to do this! 5. Tom will prepare the 200 olive trees for shipment to Iraq. He will donate the shipping boxes and bring the trees to a half-way point where I will meet him next Monday, and take the trees. The next day, Tuesday, December 5, my wife and I will drive the trees to Riverside. Our son lives in Riverside, a drive of about 4.5 hours from San Luis Obispo, Ca. 6. On Wednesday, December 6, we will deliver the 200 trees in shipping boxes to the DHL facilities or other staging location at the March Air Force Base in Riverside. Talia Wesley will help with this exact location when the time comes. She has made arrangements for DHL to ship the 200 trees at no cost to CRFG! 7. Talia Wesley has informed us that there will be a very special "program" on Friday, December 8th when the actual departure from March Air Force Base will occur. California's First Lady Marie Schriver will be on hand to make some remarks as the DHL plane will contain other "goodies" for shipment to Iraq. We hope to have CRFG members on hand on Friday to show their support of DHL and the military! 8. Jim Morris, a reporter for the California Farm Bureau, has developed a strong interest in the project and has made contact with MSG Patricia Marsano to be sure that we get some quality photos of the actual planting of the olive trees on and around the Anaconda Base in Iraq. He will help to share this super positive story with the Farm Bureau through the weekly newspaper, the Ag Alert. 9. Members and friends of the CRFG have learned of this project over the past weeks and it has been most gratifying to learn of their enthusiasm and financial support for the project. Many of these members have also expressed their extreme pride in the members of the 164th Corps Support Group. This small but symbolic gesture of peace.... is very important and an inspiration to all of us. We are proud to be a part of this Olive Tree Project. Joe Sabol mailto:jsabol@calpoly.edu San Luis Obispo, California <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. Subject: Autumn King Seedless Grapes: Big and Luscious Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 09:03:34 -0500 From: ARS News Service --View this report online, plus any included photos or other images, at www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr __________________________________________________ Plump, sweet and delicious Autumn King seedless grapes may soon become a favorite fresh-fruit snack for fall. This new, light-green--technically known as "white"--grape from Agricultural Research Service plant geneticists in California is firm, juicy and ready to harvest in late October. That's about the time the U.S. harvest of another white seedless grape, summertime classic Thompson Seedless, is winding down. What's more, Autumn King stays firm and sweet in cold storage, meaning that it may be available through late December. The attractive, amply-sized grape is larger than Thompson Seedless, according to ARS horticulturist David W. Ramming, who developed the grape over nearly a decade of research and testing. He worked in collaboration with plant technician Ronald L. Tarailo. Both are with the agency's San Joaquin Valley Agricultural Sciences Center near Parlier, Calif. Autumn King, patented by the scientists and licensed to the industry-sponsored California Table Grape Commission, Fresno, was made available for the first time last year for grapevine nurseries to sublicense. So far, sublicensees have--in all--grown more than 100,000 young Autumn King grapevines for planting in central California's commercial vineyards, where most of the nation's fresh-market grapes are grown. Fruit from these vines may begin showing up in supermarket produce sections within two to three years. Autumn King joins the series of superior white, red and blue-black fresh-market and raisin grapes that the expert Parlier team has developed. Some of those grapes--though not Autumn King--got their start in life from a laboratory technique called embryo rescue. Ramming was the first to successfully apply, and refine, the technique specifically for breeding seedless grapes. Plant physiologist Richard L. Emershad of Ramming's group carries out the procedure. He carefully excises undersized, otherwise-doomed embryos that result when two seedless grapes parent a new seedless offspring. Then he nurtures embryos on a gel of special nutrients until they form a plant that's ready for the greenhouse and, later, the vineyard. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Citrus Disease Targeted Date: Thu, 09 Nov 2006 07:57:41 -0400 From: ARS News Service To: ARS News subscriber Huanglongbing, an exotic citrus disease thatÕs also known as citrus greening, is the focus of the top-ranked research proposal in the Agricultural Research Service's (ARS) 2007 Postdoctoral Research Award Program. California-based ARS plant physiologist Hong Lin wrote the proposal, which received the highest score in the agencyÕs annual in-house competition. He will receive the agency's T.W. Edminster Award and $120,000 to fund a two-year postdoctoral position in his laboratory at the ARS San Joaquin Valley Agricultural Sciences Center near Parlier, Calif. Lin also will be honored at the ARS annual awards ceremony in 2007. The postdoc that Lin hires will work with him to develop a fast, reliable test to detect the microbe that causes Huanglongbing, or HLB, in oranges, lemons and other familiar citrus. Early and reliable detection of the microbe--a bacterium known to scientists as Candidatus Liberibacter--is essential to stopping its spread, according to Lin. The new diagnostic test will be based on analysis of samples of the culprit microbe's genetic material, or DNA. The bacterium was detected in the United States for the first time in 2005, in Florida. It can weaken or kill citrus trees or cause them to stop bearing fruit. Tiny, winged insects known as psyllids spread the microbe. Huanglongbing also occurs in the tropics and subtropics of Asia, India, Africa and South America. Also under the ARS 2007 Postdoctoral Research Award Program, another 49 ARS scientists from around the country will receive $100,000 to fund two-year postdoc positions. Their investigations will cover such subjects as determining the effectiveness of fruit and vegetable compounds in preventing cancer and other diseases, improving corn plants' ability to withstand drought, finding genetic markers that predict pork quality, and exploring a high-tech approach to detecting pathogens on food. ARS is the U.S. Department of Agriculture's chief scientific research agency. <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200612A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> Rare Fruit News Online - December 15, 2006 - AKA RFN200612B.txt _______________________________________________________________ <><><><> Notes In Passing - Leo <><><><> CRFG Holiday Party With Food - Tonight! December meeting is Friday, December 15, 2006 Agenda: General Meeting & Elections: 7:00 Ð 7:45 pm Holiday Dinner: 7:45 pm Ð 8:30 pm Election Results: 8:30 pm, Gift Exchange: 8:45 pm Meeting Place: Rm. 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park, San Diego CA Mango season is rapidly growing to a close. Still unripe are Kent, Keitt, Seedling Kent, and Valencia Pride. (Valencia Pride had only a couple of fruit. If you have it, is it rather late in ripening for you? <><><><><><><><><> Table Of Contents <><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> Messages follow the Table Of Contents <- <- <- <><><> New Subscribers <><><> New Subscriber, CA, Seeks Plant Material Exchange Eyal Givon New Subscriber, Maryland Jeff Tokar New Subscriber - Beerwah Qld 4519, Australia Willmott New Subscriber-Maui-Seeks Fruiting Windbreak "Buehler, Christopher" New Subscriber - Banga, Aklan, Philippines Marilyn Romaquin New Subscriber, North Carolina Sunshine Lemme New Subscriber, Employee of Frieda's Ann Marie Hawkins <><><> Readers Write <><><> I Need Help Identifying A Tree "Richard P. Karasik" Diabetes and tropical fruit "NancyB." Re: Dehydrate Miracle Fruit? Shaindy I'm looking for the banana Ae Ae "Pedro" Growing Rare Fruit In Containers Yvrose Valdez Re: Growing Rare Fruit In Containers To: Yvrose Valdez Blueberries In Southern California Matthew Shugart Determining harvest times for cherimoya Matthew Shugart Coffeecake and Tamopan persimmon Matthew Shugart CRFG San Diego Chapter Newsletter Leo Manuel Fruit and triglycerides Brian Carroll GTF Chromium Amy Fernandez Blueberries In Southern California Matthew Shugart Determining harvest times for cherimoya Matthew Shugart Coffeecake and Tamopan persimmon Matthew Shugart <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers: See William Ross <><><> CRFG Container Gardening Editor mailto:pursebox@vermontel.net None, this time <><><> Announcements and / or Web Sites To Consider <><><> http://www.crfgsandiego.org For *San Diego Chapter* CRFG Information http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List <> From: "Scott D. Russell" None, this time <><><> NAFEX List <><><> http://lists.ibiblio.org/mailman/listinfo/nafex Archives at http://lists.ibiblio.org/pipermail/nafex None, this time <><><> From "rarefruit list" - rarefruit@yahoogroups.com <><><> None, this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:ars>news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm None, this time -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, CA, Seeks Plant Material Exchange Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 07:35:58 -0800 (PST) From: Eyal Givon I am Eyal Givon and live in Yorba Linda, CA I am trying (with some success, need more time and knowledge, I guess) to grow a variety of fruit trees from the more common like Apple, Avocado, Banana, Citruses etc. to the less common like Cherimoya, Guava, Mango, Surinam Cherry etc. I am always looking for interesting, unusual, and most of all tasty new fruits to grow. Some of the trees I am looking for are Carambola, Jaboticaba, Paw paw, Nuts (both common and unusual - got none at this point), Sapotes, Mamey, and more. I have a lot of potential in terms of space to grow trees, but since most of my lot is inside a steep canyon, it requires a lot of work and time to create areas to plant - terraces. I would love to find people that are interested in exchanging plants, scion wood, seedlings, etc. that live around my area. Thanks, Eyal mailto:egivon@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Maryland Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 15:13:44 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Tokar I am Jeff Tokar in Damascus, MD (Zone 7a, but I think we are in a little frost pocket here so I tend to plan on plants that are a bit more hardy for this zone.) Current Fruit- At the moment, not much. Some apple trees, Raspberry bushes, and three or four varieties of grapew. I am getting a Pawpaw tree from my mother in law. Looking for other trees that I can grow "naturalized" here. Jeff Tokar mailto:jtokar@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Beerwah Qld 4519, Australia Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 17:55:12 +1000 From: Willmott I am Sue Willmott - Beerwah Qld 4519, Australia I have just planted a lot of trees which I haven't had the pleasure of tasting as yet they include Macadamia, Starfruit,Jabeiconia I think thats how you spell it has dark grape like fruit that grows on the trunk of the tree, Mulberry, Lemonade, Orange, Paw Paw which i'm not having much luck with still a foot tall alive but not doing much, pomegranite, guava, Plum Blueberry which again isn't doing a great deal, rasberry, and Cape gooseberry, Bananas, Custard Apple which again not having much luck with, Mango going well Today with our garden club tasted a fruit not unlike a mango to taste but not a mango Regards Sue Willmott mailto:willmott@netaccess.com.au ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Maui-Seeks Fruiting Windbreak Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2006 10:35:57 -1000 From: "Buehler, Christopher" Hi there, My name is Christopher Buehler and I live in Maui. I have personally grown, or have had some experience with, just about any tropical fruit species you can name, i.e. dozens, a hundred, hundreds, more I donÕt know, but of course there are a few I havenÕt, and thereÕs still lots of stuff I donÕt know, so this forum looks perfect for me to find about those ones and to share my knowledge. I am an organic farmer, and have helped to introduce and use sustainable agro-forestry practices on the farms I have worked. One question someone might be able to answer- IÕm looking into planting a pili nut orchard- * acre or so- a small commercial production- does anybody know what degree of variability seedlings would have- is it worth the trouble to find some good varieties to graft? IÕm also trying to think of a nice fruiting windbreak with a root system that is somewhat dry-tolerant, non invasive and can withstand being driven over frequently- any suggestions? Christopher mailto:cbuehler@mlpmaui.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber - Banga, Aklan, Philippines Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 16:43:29 -0800 (PST) From: Marilyn Romaquin Sir, Thank you so much for giving me the chance to subscribe on Rare Fruit News On Line. I am Marilyn Romaquin, Banga, Aklan Philippines. As of this time, I have rambutan, lanzones and other minor fruits. Marilyn Romaquin mailto:marromaquin_gradschool@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, North Carolina Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2006 16:06:07 -0500 From: Sunshine Lemme My name is Sunshine Lemme, I live in Montauk, Long Island. We consider it the beginning, but those from Brooklyn call it the end. I guess it's all in your perspective. I'm actually more interested in what we can grow in our near-coastal land in the 'Inner Banks" of North Carolina, Zone 8A I believe, with an altitude of about 1 foot sea level. It's wetland all around, and the cleared land probably was once, too. I hope to do some draining and am trying to add anything to the land that will raise the level of the land - sand, oyster shells, rip rap, old tires, I'm not really very picky. Having grown up in southern California, I find the problem of too much water kind of refreshing, and certainly challenging. My son, who lives on the property, is interested in a greenhouse on the south side of his house, and already has a pineapple in his east window that will go back to the deck in the spring. I'm looking for ideas about growing the not so common fruit both outside in the wet clay soil, and in the greenhouse, when it gets done. TIA S. Glen Lemme, M.S. mailto:sunshine.lemme@gmail.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Employee of Frieda's Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 10:31:19 -0800 From: Ann Marie Hawkins I would like to subscribe to your Rare Fruit Newsletter. My name is Ann Marie Hawkins and I am the New Product Development Manager at Frieda's Inc, a specialty produce company in Los Alamitos, California. Thanks Ann Marie Hawkins mailto:AnnMarie.Hawkins@friedas.com <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: CRFG San Diego Chapter Newsletter Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2006 08:57:46 -0800 From: Leo Manuel December meeting is Friday, December 15, 2006 Agenda: General Meeting & Elections: 7:00 Ð 7:45 pm Holiday Dinner: 7:45 pm Ð 8:30 pm Election Results: 8:30 pm, Gift Exchange: 8:45 pm Meeting Place: Rm. 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park, San Diego CA Chair: David Silverstein chair@crfgsandiego.org Vice-Chair: Paul Fisher Membership and Treasurer 619/ 440 2213 Holiday Party & Elections - Come celebrate the holidays with us. Buffet style ÒpotluckÓ dinner. The Chapter will provide ham and turkey. Remember to bring your favorite dish to share. WeÕll have the Election Results during dinner. Gift Exchange to follow. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: I Need Help Identifying A Tree With Tart-Sweet Fruit Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 13:08:10 -0800 From: "Richard P. Karasik" Hello I am trying to get some help in identifying a rare fruit tree I have - more like a really large bush It puts out small red berries ( 1/4 inch ) in diameter that are speckled with yellow. When It was sold to me it was called something like heavenly olive - it has nothing at all that looks like an olive on it. It is fruiting now. The fruits are tart sweet. Thank you for your trouble Richard Karasik, Saratoga, CA mailto:rpk@bandk.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Diabetes and tropical fruit Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 06:46:37 -0500 From: "NancyB." Dear Leo, My Dad has type II diabetes and he can eat some fruits. He grows low - alum persimmons and dries the chips for when he takes along walk and feels shaky. He likes grapefruit halves from our trees because he eats the pulp and bioflavinoids, He eats fresh figs from the bushes because they are very nutritious. He eats homegrown pineapple and papaya for dessert, because pastry has a high glycemic index. You can still eat mangoes but you might try mixing them with other low glycemic index fruits like strawberries and blueberries for a fruit cup. Table grapes have a lot of sugar, and so do temperate black cherries. Tropical blackberries and pomegranites are good for juicing because they have a lot of antioxidants. Any fruit with lots of fiber and trace minerals is very good for you.My dad said that he can eat a banana, but it has to fit in the palm of his hand for portion control. He is in his 70s and he has to eat more fruit with minerals like Potassium. He has to keep his vascular system in good order because PNS is a side effect of long term Diabetes II I hope this helps. Regards, Nancy from Florida mailto:sergius1@bellsouth.net ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dehydrate Miracle Fruit? Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 10:42:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Shaindy Hi Leo Happy Holidays and thanks for a great newsletter Re: Miracle Fruit dehydration - Doesn't work - Even when they dry out in the freezer they lose their effectiveness. Need to eat more than just one. Believe it is the juice not the pulp that creates the miracle. I dehydrate mango (pureed and sliced), carambola, cherries, herbs, etc. Regards Shirley mailto:shaindy@mindspring.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: I'm looking for the banana Ae Ae Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 03:25:23 +0100 (MET) From: Pedro Hello, I am Pedro, I am a Spaniard, Do you know where I can obtain banana Ae Ae? Please send an e-mail. Thanks Pedro mailto:XPAGAN@terra.es ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Rare Fruit In Containers Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 03:59:15 -0800 (PST) From: Yvrose Valdez Hi Leo, What kind of fruit trees can I go in containers in Miami and how do I prevent root bound? Thanks, Evez mailto:yvrosevaldez@yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Growing Rare Fruit In Containers Date: 5 December 2006 To: Yvrose Valdez The following is extracted from: UnderCover Crops - Mobile Tropical Fruit Orchards By Ray Bayer Tropical Fruit World (March/April 1990 22-24; May/June 1990 58-59; September/October 1990 130; Nov/Dec 1990 163; Jan/Feb 1991 29 Let me inspire you to discover a new kind of gardening pleasure. My excitement is over the container growing of tropical fruit plants, something I have now been doing for more than 13 years. Each year proving more pleasurable than the last. For the temperate climate gardener containerizing is the only method available for growing tropical fruit trees. I live in southwest Pennsylvania, and as I write this article we're in the midst of a winter snow squall with a wind chill of around 9¡F. My tropical fruit trees are completely unaware of this miserable phenomenon known as an Arctic cold front and are busily blooming and setting fruit. After a summer outdoors, and before the first freeze, I simply pick up my potted plants and plop them in a greenhouse under fluorescent lights, where they spend their winter in the Tropic of Pennsylvania. The ability of these plants to adapt to their artificial environment and continual restrictive growing is tremendous. As I write, my plants are setting such varied fruits as jaboticaba, passionfruit, citrus, cherimoyas, feijoas and more. Enthusiasm over this method of tropical fruit culture need not be confined to northern gardeners. South Florida growers and others in sub-tropical and mild winter areas should be exposed to the joy of containerized growing. It opens up an entirely new area to the rare fruit hobbyist. Fruit trees can be moved from one area of the yard to another to take advantage of sun or shade. Inspection of root systems can be done as needed by simply tapping the tree out of the pot. Landscapes can be achieved by sinking the potted trees into various locations, and later moving them if a different garden scheme is desired. Exact watering and fertilization schedules are easier because confined root systems and nutrient deficiencies are taken care of more quickly. One of the most exciting aspects of this type of gardening is that, thanks to the portability of the plant, very tropical fruit trees, such as the South Asian mangosteen and rambutan, can be grown with little worry of frost or cold damage. In Florida this advantage, of course applies to any cold sensitive species. When the temperature threatens to plummet simply pick up the pot and set it in a protected area, whether a Florida room or a garage. Most trees will thrive for years in five to ten gallon pots without any special care. As most tropicals fruit on new growth, I usually top prune mine yearly to stimulate new fruiting growth, sometimes taking up to a third of the growth off. This drastic one-third reduction is done (if at all) every fourth or fifth year, and is sometimes accompanied by root pruning, also a one-third reduction. This is done by knocking the tree out of the pot and reducing the root system on all four sides and bottom by using a key hole saw or similar tool. The tree is then put back in the pot and fresh potting medium is packed around it, along with slow release fertilizer if desired. It is then set in a semi-shaded location in the yard (or greenhouse) until new growth is evident and the flowering/fruiting cycle will be revitalized. This is only done to trees that are stressed due to extreme root crowding and exhibit root bound symptoms by producing small or no fruit crops, small leaves and little new growth. Of course this stage of stunted growth is rarely ever reached, although newly purchased plants may be in need of an immediate root cut. Fibrous roots appearing on the top of the soil is the sign that it is now time to prune or repot. Pot grown fruit trees usually have a completely fibrous root system, being devoid of a tap root, so this method of keeping the tree within bounds is not at all detrimental. Think of it as having your hair styled; a little off the top and sides always makes your hair grow better and look fuller. So it is with containerized fruit trees. Every spring I like to replace the top three or four inches of soil with fresh medium. This gives the plant a growing boost and aids in better fruit production. My fruit trees are grown in a homemade potting mix of two-parts garden loam or packaged potting soil, one-part perlite, one-part vermiculite and a half-part peat. I also use a commercial soilless mix consisting of sphagnum or peat moss, vermiculite, perlite and dolomite lime for a pH buffer in which the trees seem to do as well as or better than in the soil mixture, though it needs to be enhanced more often with fertilizer. It should be noted that the reason I add lime to my soil mix is that fertilizing containerized trees often tends to lower the pH to the point where the nutrients are bound up in the soil making them unavailable to the plant; adding a small amount of dolomite lime simply keeps the pH in the neutral range. Of course, some fruit trees enjoy being on the acidic side of the pH tables as long as nutrients are available to them. Jaboticabas do well in a pure peat, perlite, vermiculite mixture. I usually use diluted amounts of fertilizer with every watering and full strength dosages twice monthly or more depending on rainfall. Due to the fact that the trees are raised in containers, nutrient leaching can be a problem in areas or seasons of heavy rain. I've found that Peter's 20-20-20 fertilizer mixture to be as close to ideal as any. I also supplement many of my trees with triple super phosphate every four to six weeks during the growing season along with a foliar feeding of potassium nitrate. Spraying is done in early morning and evening when the leaves are most receptive to this type of feeding. Once or twice a season I also spray on trace elements to round out their diet. Chlorosis of certain containerized trees can be a problem, but prudent applications of nitrogen corrects this problem as does iron. Passifloras, for instance, are susceptible to chlorotic new growth and require more nitrogen than either citrus or peach trees. Care must be taken whenever iron or nitrogen is sprayed on new growth to avoid burning. I have made the "more is better" mistake in foliar feeding before and it is not a pleasant sight to watch vigorous healthy new growth turn black almost overnight, shrivel up and flake away. Healthy deep green growth inevitably always appears but it sets back flower and fruit production considerably. Following the manufacturer's dosage is the key to successful chemical feeding. Personally, I use water soluble fertilizer, as I feel I have much more control over plant feeding with this method. Other growers might prefer the longer lasting pellet-type feed. There are various long lasting pellet fertilizers available that provide up to three months of constant feeding. Osmocote 14-14-14 is one such product. Many opt for completely organic feed such as bone meal, blood meal and green sand, but the percentage of nutrients are so low that I don't think a heavy feeding tree would benefit satisfactorily from them. The one organic I do use is fish, especially those from the briny depths of the sea. The trace elements and nitrogen these critters can supply to a potted fruit tree is tremendous, and it's a long lasting supply too. A few cubes of finny flesh will last a northern growing season and then some. Watering is, of course critical to all plants but especially to a potted fruit tree. During the summer a healthy, fruiting containerized tree drinks gallons of water. I've often had to water mine every other day. Growers in sub-tropical areas such as Florida who are used to growing in the ground may be watering more than they're accustomed to. This can be remedied somewhat by mulching the top of the pot with dried grass clippings, unmilled sphagnum moss or pre-packaged mulch. During the summer most fruit trees are holding a crop and dry soil can turn this year's pot crop into this year's pot drop: those delicious lychees may be this past year's history with only one soil drying. One of the best methods of preventing evaporation is by sinking the pot in the ground and mulching the top. Also, use plastic pots. Burying the containers gives added wind protection to the trees. It's frustrating to find a fruit laden tree toppled over and half of its' crop knocked off. Even by sinking the pot one third of its height into the ground will prevent this type of frustration. There are many reliable nurseries and growers in the U.S. who will ship tropical fruit trees. When visiting a nursery that has a plant I am looking for, I provide them with a suitable box with return postage and have them ship the plant to me. The tree is simply knocked out of the pot and bare rooted with the roots wrapped in damp newspaper and a trash bag to prevent leakage. Many nurseries will spray the plants with evaporation retardants to prevent water loss. The tree usually needs to be pruned back, sometimes severely, and is then placed in the box surrounded by newspaper to prevent too much movement in transit. It usually takes three days to reach me from Florida. In this short period of time the tree suffers very little damage, if any, and upon arrival is immediately potted up and placed in a protected location for a few days. Once acclimation is over it is placed in full sun and within a couple of weeks begins to push out new growth. I have been shipping plants for many years this way and I have never lost one due to shipping damage or shock. I usually request priority mail shipment through the U.S. postal service because they deliver six days out of the week unlike United Parcel Service which ships only five. My trees don't really feel their first spring breeze until mid-April when they are set outside. This is a critical time for the plants, being the beginning of their summer reacclimation period. They have been wintered over either in a greenhouse (which happens to be plastic with light intensity much less than glass) and under fluorescent lights. If they are exposed to sunlight immediately, even the weak spring sum, the leaves will be charred almost at once. I set them in a shaded location for a few days, then to an area of dappled sunlight and eventually to full sun. This entire process may take from two to three weeks depending on how the trees are reacting. If I notice bleached areas on the leaves, then they have been exposed to the sun too quickly and will be placed in a semishaded area a while longer. This acclimation period is not lost growing time because the trees are actively sending out new growth. It's simply a period of "hardening up" the leaves to the summer sun. The last years' growth is rarely affected to the extent of the current seasons growth; it usually stays green with no signs of scorching. The nights during mid-April to mid-May can drop more than 40 degrees which means a 70¡F day can be followed by a 30¡F night. This is a period of overwork for me because there is a likely chance the trees will have to be sheltered in the garage from a cold night. It doesn't happen nightly and rarely in May so the only early-season backaches I suffer are in the last weeks of April. After this initial yearly acclimating period, my trees grow as well as the same trees in Florida. The portability of my fruit orchard allows me to grow quite a number of different tropical fruit trees, and to see them flowering and fruiting in Pennsylvania is a definite sight to behold. Next to a black oak may be a blooming carambola or beside a sugar maple a jaboticaba crop will be ready to harvest. Crawling skyward beside a clematis is a passionvine while my red cattleya guava is ripening next to a dwarfing cherry. My summer yard is a pleasing combination of temperate and tropical. This infusion of tropical fruit trees among the standard zone varieties adds a measure of curiosity and appeal to all who see them. When viewing a Passiflora alata (Fragrant Granadilla) in full bloom for the first time a neighbor was absolutely convinced that the flowers were plastic because, as she stated," a flower just doesn't look like that." The incredible complexity of the passionflower certainly lends itself to be called the ultimate in flora beauty just as containerizing is the pinnacle of tropical fruit culture, at least for the temperate zone gardener. I have found one of the finest trees suitable for potted fruit culture to be the jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora). Flowering and fruiting occur throughout the year but it's during winter, spring and early summer that the trees become absolutely mobbed with delicious, 1" deep purple fruit. This small, bushy Brazilian tree develops a luxuriant deep green canopy that literally shields the branches and trunk from the sun. I've found that if the tree is kept from branching too much and kept somewhat open by judicial pruning a larger crop will be produced. The jaboticaba grows beautifully here in Pennsylvania and looks a bit like a large branchy privet. This is a plant that responds well to a supplemental diet of triple superphosphate, potassium nitrate as a foliar feed and constant water. It grows well in a soilless mix (available commercially) or simply pure peat with perlite and vermiculite added and a top mulch of rich humus. The real delights in growing this small tree are the fruit, which it so eagerly produces and tree's style of flowering and fruiting. The jaboticaba is cauliflorus, which means the flowers and fruit are borne directly on the trunk and larger branches. It is a pleasantly shocking revelation to the uninitiated to see a bumper crop of fruit for the first time covering the branches in purple clusters from the trunk to the uppermost canopy. They're even more amazed when told that it takes only 20 to 30 days for the fruit to mature and that up to eight crops a year can be harvested, making this tree an almost perpetual bearer. The final treat comes when they bite into a ripe fruit. The flavor is deliciously sweet with just the right amount of subacidity and plenty of Jaboticaba tree and fruit juice encased in a chewy outer skin. The result is invariably, "mmmmm.... that was delicious! How about another one?" This is a fruit that the novice fruit-taster likes immediately. An added incentive to growing the jaboticaba is that it is practically pest free. The only drawback is that it is primarily grown from seed and takes from seven to fifteen years to start bearing. I also grow Myciaria glomerata, which produces fuzzy yellow fruit of smaller size than the jaboticaba. The fruit is composed practically entirely of a single seed surrounded by a small amount of pleasantly sweet pulp. I am also growing M. vexator and M. jaboticaba but they are seedlings and still quite small. In my opinion, the jaboticaba is a prime candidate for commercial exploitation due to its overall taste appeal. My evidence for this is that during cropping, people I haven't seen for weeks will stroll into my yard, casually look around and walk away with jaboticaba breath. The passionvine (Passiflora spp.) is another fruiting plant that is well suited to container culture. I have over fifty different species and grow them not only for the fruit but also for their stunning flowers. I grow all of them around galvanized hoops pushed into the pots and wrap the rambling shoots around them. I have unraveled vines up to 15' in length from the hoops when trimming them back for their winter rest. Passiflora not only rewards the grower with delicious fruit but also with one of the most delicate and complex flowers in the plant kingdom. With over 400 species known (mostly native to the American tropics) I grow only a small fraction of what could be container grown. I'm constantly adding to my collection and grow them with fruiting almost as an afterthought! This is how much reverence I place in the flower. Passifloras are vines and they definitely like to ramble, so I raise most of them in 13" to 15" pots to keep their root systems happy. As mentioned earlier, these plants go chlorotic rather quickly and are also heavy feeders. They require more nitrogen than citrus and also iron supplements during the growing season. I feed them nitrogen and iron monthly during the summer, or whenever I notice the new growth turning chlorotic. As with all of my other fruit trees, I use diluted fertilizer almost every time I water. There are many fruiting passionvines that the tropical fruit gardener can grow but two species should definitely be mandatory. These are the purple granadilla (Passiflora edulis) and the giant granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis). There are many others that produce fruit as good or possibly better, but due to difficulties such as pollination they have been omitted. The purple granadilla is an extremely easy plant to fruit in a container and during the growing season is loaded with fruit. The flowers of this species will usually pollinate themselves, although I usually cross pollinate with other clones for maximum fruit set and size. It is not unusual for clones of P. edulis to produce nearly tennis ball sized fruit. The purple and white flower opens in the morning and usually closes in the evening, pollinating itself in the process. The result is usually noticeable in three to five days with the swelling of the fruit. Maturation is fairly rapid in my geographic area, taking from three to four months. Fruits that are evident in April are edible by July or August. Fruits of the purple granadilla are, as the name implies, dark I purple and fall from the vine when I ripe. The shell of this passionfruit is hard, so the fall doesn't bruise it. A gentle tug will also dislodge ripe fruit. I Once off the plant I usually let it ripen another two to three days until wrinkled and enhanced by a delightful ambrosial aroma. The fruit is I then halved and the pulp is scooped out and eaten, seeds included. Delicious! There is nothing quite like a juicy, fully ripened passionfruit to conjure up tropical visions of verdant lowland rainforests, raucous early morning fruit markets and the soothing lull of evening trade winds. The fruit of the giant granadilla also coats the palate with the same delectable tropical flavor but on a much larger scale. The fruit can be as large as a football and weigh up to six pounds! Unlike the leaves of P. edulis, which are deeply three lobed with serrated edges, the giant granadilla's leaves are oval, unlobed and up to eight inches long, with ten to twelve pronounced lateral veins running through them. The flowers are also larger-up to three inches in diameter - and pendulous; they hang downward instead of being held upright. There are actually two forms of P. quadrangularis, one with eight inch long fruit and one producing twelve inch long melon size meals! There is some self-compatibility in both forms, although some growers recommend cross-pollination with the larger form. Hand pollination will assure a good fruit set. The outer shell is not hard like the purple granadilla but somewhat soft and bruisable. When ripe the color turns to yellow-green with some clones exhibiting a slight pinkish blush at one end. Cut lengthwise the fruit opens to a mass of pulp covered seeds nestled in a cavity surrounded by a thick white melon-like rind. The rind can be eaten much the same way a melon is eaten, but it is not as aromatic. The pulp again is the main attraction and it's eaten straight from the shell along with the large soft seeds. It's very juicy, pleasantly sub-acid and aromatic. The green, immature fruits of this species can also be boiled and eaten as a vegetable, and in Jamaica the tuberous roots are said to be used as a substitute for yams. Quite a versatile plant! Most passifloras will begin to produce within a year to sixteen months when being grown from seed, and almost immediately when grown from cuttings. I have found that unrooted cuttings sent through the mail survive their journey nicely when dampened and sent in zip lock bags. I have received cuttings by this method from as far away as Honduras and have had them root within three weeks. There are many other passionvines that produce delicious fruit, but due to a number of problems with pollination, climatic requirements, poor flower production and other difficulties, these have been omitted. A few of the "best of the difficult" are P. ligularis (sweet granadilla), P. laurifolia (yellow granadilla), P. maliformis (sweet calabash) and P. antioquiensis (banana passionfruit). Cherimoya of Pennsylvania Mark Twain knew much about much and when biting into a particular fruit described it as 'Deliciousness itself! He was raving about the cherimoya (Annona cherimola) and the taste description still applies. I grow two varieties: 'Booth' and 'Pierce', and I couldn't agree more. Both flower freely for me but the 'Booth' is the only variety old enough to let a crop set. The cherimoya originated in the mountains of Ecuador and Peru, and since its' introduction into the gardening community many named cultivars have been produced. Mine are both grafted and grown in 18" pots. The cherimoya is a knobby looking fruit. The skin is smooth, light green and from lumpy to almost scale-like in appearance. My 'Booth' is more on the lumpy side. Cherimoyas may weigh up to a few pounds, with the fruit shape ranging from heart-shaped to oval. But no matter what shape or size, the true test of a fruit of legendary stature is decided by the palate and the cherimoya lives up to expectations. People are at first taken aback by the appearance of the fruit hanging from their thick stems on my tree and I have even been asked if it was a new avocado-pear hybrid! The cherimoya goes through a short deciduous period and the flowering takes place during this defoliated stage which adds even more to the peculiarity of the tree. The leaf drop is due to the formation of buds (flower and/or vegetative) beneath the petiole juncture. They first appear as small knobby protuberances encased in a fuzzy brown sheath. As they grow this sheath splits and the new growth presents itself along with the flowers. The flowers are fairly unattractive but produced in abundance. They are about l" long, greenish-yellow in color and very fleshy, exuding a wonderfully fruity fragrance. Once you detect this aroma the one major problem of the is at hand: hand-pollination. The flower is perfect, containing both stigmas and stamens (male and female reproductive organs) but herein lies the problem. The male is not ready when the female is - a botanical reversal of 'not to night, I have a headache' syndrome. She is usually ready the day before he is. That is, the pistils are receptive from 12 to 24 hours before the pollen is shed. There is a simple, though time consuming, remedy for this situation. Collect pollen from a male flower (the petals will be wide open) and place it in an empty 35mm film canister or a similar container. Next, find the receptive female. She'll be easy to spot because her petals will only be partially opened. Spread the three thick petals carefully with one hand and with a pollen laden paint brush (which has been dipped in the canister) gently stroke back and forth across the receptive pistils. Voila! a baby cherimoya will be born! There really can be no mistake in choosing the correct flower because they are either closed tightly, partially opened or completely spread apart. The success rate using this method is very high. Once fruit set is complete, maturation takes from five to ten months. During this time the tree will have adorned itself with new foliage and have become a very attractive member of the container orchard. The leaves are large, from 8" to 10" long, medium green on top with the brownish green underside exhibiting a velvety texture. Here in Pennsylvania, my cherimoyas shed their leaves in November-December, with flower buds evidenced towards the end of December. Actual pollination and fruit set doesn't take place until mid-February. My 'Booth' is a very precocious bloomer, producing at least some flowers throughout the summer and fall. It's very easy to get carried away with pollination so I selectively pollinate to be assured of four or five good sized fruit as opposed to a dozen smaller ones. The fruit is mature when a yellowish cast appears on the skin. It is now that they should be clipped, not picked off the tree. If they are pulled off, the core may remain attached to the stem. I usually let mine ripen from three to five days off the tree at room temperature. Once a ripe fruit is in your possession, have a pen and paper handy, because once one is eaten, you definitely have something to write home about! Cut it lengthwise and spoon out the white custard-like flesh. Get ready for an oral explosion as it melts in your mouth, releasing a juicy blend of tropical flavors - subacid and delicate, with taste tones of banana, papaya and pineapple is one way to describe it. As was so aptly stated by one Dr. Seemann more than 70 years ago, "Many people feel that the taste of the cherimoya surpasses every other fruit. That it is the masterpiece of nature." That fellow certainly knew what he was talking about. The best way to grow cherimoyas is to purchase one or more of the many grafted varieties available, which include 'White', 'Ott', 'Honeyhart' and 'Bays'. They can also be grown from seed and come into bearing after four years, but probably will not be true to type. Like the feijoa, a cherimoya requires a certain amount of chilling to flower, estimated at between 50 to 100 hours at 35¡F to 45¡F*. *[Editor's note: in southern Florida the cherimoya set flowers several times a year. Anything that causes defoliation sets the stage for a fresh batch of flowers. Though cold weather is certainly effective in this regard, so is dry-wet cycle, fertilizer shock, manual leaf stripping and pruning - Har Maheem]. Again, the warmer sections of the nation lose out but in this case a few substitute annonas can be grown. One is the sugar apple or sweetsop (Annona squamosa) which is a dependable bearer in the south Florida climate. The fruit is much knobbier and smaller than the cherimoya but the flesh exhibits a similar taste quality. The soursop or guanabana (Annona muricata) is another cherimoya relative and is the most tropical of the annonas. The fruit is the largest of the family, being 6" to 9" long, and is covered with soft fleshy spines. The flesh is juicy and more sub-acid in flavor and some people claim that the aftertaste is reminiscent of mango. The atemoya is a hybrid between the sugar apple and cherimoya and is the perfect marriage. Traits of both are blended together perfectly-the sweetsop's tolerance of humid, warm climates and the cherimoya's exquisite taste. The atemoya was hybridized between 1908 and 1910 in Miami, and continues to be the most reliable producer for that subtropical climate. Carambola: Star of Pennsylvania By Ray Bayer The star fruit or carambola (Averrhoa carambola) can be the centerpiece of any tropical fruit orchard, not only for its crisp sweet taste, but also because of the unusual structure of the fruit. The carambola has 4 to 6 prominently raised ribs traveling the length of the fruit and when cut horizontally, voila, a star is born! The cut fruit looks distinctly starlike, the number of ribs determining the number of points on the star. If the shape of the fruit isn't unusual enough, its coloration and skin texture add even more to the fruit's pleasing strangeness. The mature fruit is a beautiful bright yellow, and due to a heavy coating of natural wax, the skin shines as though it's been painted with enamel lacquer. For all of its uniqueness and exotic eye appeal though, the carambola is a pleasure to grow in a container and very easy to bring into fruiting. I grow two varieties, the 'Arkin' and 'Fwang Tung, and both provide me with stellar fruiting performances every year. My trees are grown in 17" pots and the soil is kept on the acidic side. I use ammonia sulfate on the carambolas several times during the growing season (as I do with several other trees) and they simply revel in this treatment. Beginning in late winter, flowers appear in seemingly constant flushes. They appear as inflorescences from the leaf axils (where the leaf attaches to the tree) on young growth or where the leaves have fallen away on old growth. The small flowers are beautifully lilac, pleasantly fragrant and perfect, although, again, I assist pollination with my ever-present brush. Fruit maturation takes from 3 to 5 months depending on the weather and the time of the season in which the tree is holding fruit. The carambola is such an exuberant producer that I have had two foot high airlayers holding six fruit. Vegetatively propagated plants are the only reliable method of growing this tree because fruit taste ranges from sour to very sweet, with the fruit produced by seedlings almost guaranteed to be poor. Another interesting point about the star fruit is that the compound leaves have the ability to fold back at night only to open again in the morning. When I first started growing the trees I was unaware of this trait. It was in the evening on the day after they arrived from Florida that I first noticed the folded leaves and it was right after I had fertilized them. Of course I immediately thought I had done them in. However, the morning brought with it not only unfurled leaves but the awareness that this ability was just another distinctive characteristic of the carambola. The one minor problem in growing this tree that could eventually become very bothersome is that the trees attracts spider mites. I'm sure for Florida growers this problem is nonexistent but to greenhouse gardeners it could easily get out of control. This problem only becomes evident in the winter when the trees are quartered to the hothouse and is quickly remedied by soapy water or other means, usually chemical. Other than this one inconvenience, the carambola is certainly one of my top picks for its ease of culture and abundance of fruit it produces so regularly. Psidium of Pennsylvania For the grower who can't be bothered with such tedious tasks as hand pollination or laying awake at night worrying about whether his beloved flowers are going to be male or female, the tropical guava (Psidium guajava) is the tree to grow. This small Central American tree is not overly concerned with the care it receives and is very tolerant of a neglectful owner. This is not to say that it can be thrown in a closet and be expected to produce fruit, but it is quite flexible in its growing requirements. I have raised a number of different varieties over the years and all have borne fruit without the slightest hesitation. At present, I am growing the 'Supreme', 'Redland', 'Beaumont', and 'Mexican Cream' varieties. All perform beautifully in 13 in. to 15 in. pots with a minimum of care. The guava is a fast grower and to keep it in bounds I prune it heavily (every other year drastically) immediately after the fruit has ripened, which for me happens to be in late fall to early winter. I usually take off nearly all of the current season's new growth, clipping it as close as possible to a dormant leaf bud. Due to the fact that the leaves are produced opposite one another, this single cut institutes a double response from the plant in that it produces two new growing shoots. This "two for one" effect is very beneficial to the plant and grower because flowers are produced on new growth and the trimming also revitalizes the plant, resulting in larger fruit. The new growth will appear as day length increases, which for me is mid-January. The flowers, which are produced along with the new growth, open up in May and are completely self-pollinating, although cross-pollination will produce more fruit. You can smell a flowering guava from a distance, the pleasing scent blanketing the growing area, inviting bees and other buzzing creatures to grab a free tropical meal. During this period of accelerated growth, I ply my trees with heavy doses of fertilized water which they imbibe gratefully, the extra dosage helping the nurturing of the plants' fruit. After flowering is completed, mature fruit delivery takes from four to six months. Growth slows considerably during this period, the plants' abundant energy now being funneled into the development of its fruit. It is during this holding stage that I lightly prune the trees, snipping back the more vigorous non-fruiting shoots or simply cutting off undesired branches. Watering during this time is very critical to the maturing guavas (as it is with all developing fruit) and prolonged dryness can lead to dry pulpless fruit. Four to six months is a too long a time to wait for fruit to ripen into worthless, dried out shells. My guavas ripen from September to November, with a slight color change in the yellow skin indicating maturation. Ripe fruit is also soft to the touch. Taste varies considerably among my varieties, ranging from the deliciously sweet dessert type ('Supreme') to the acidic processing type ('Beaumont'). Seediness also varies from extreme to minimal, with some fruit varieties being practically seed free. Flesh is either reddish or white in all varieties. Guavas are an excellent source of vitamin C and A, both higher in the red fleshed variety. For you health-conscious growers out there, this is the fruit for you! It has a remarkable number of uses ranging from medicinal (the leaves when chewed alleviate toothaches) to recreational (a fine wine can be made from the fermented fruit). When the leaves are boiled and the resulting broth drunk, diarrhea can be remedied; and as a mouthwash it helps cure swollen gums. These folk remedies are used in third world countries where the availability of Bayer aspirin or Pepto-Bismol is non-existent. In some cultures I'm sure that the tropical guava is quite an indispensable plant, one that's usefulness far exceeds simply a ripe fruit. The red cattley or strawberry guava (Psidium cattleianum) is another one of those ego-boosting subtropicals that makes the transition from temperate gardening to tropical fruit container gardening so successful. I state 'ego-boosting' because this plant is assured of producing fruit for the novice. It's the perfect crossover fruit to choose for the grower who would like to begin a tropical container orchard. The red cattley has always been one of my favorites and like the tropical guava doesn't require an abundance of care. I grow two red cattleys and one yellow or lemon cattley, this yellow variety bearing much larger fruit. The red strawberry guava is usually grown from seed because it produces true by this method. There's no noticeable variation in fruit quality from the parent tree. I have found that the only variation in seedling plants is in size and production, and not fruit taste. Two seedlings I have grown in particular have turned out to be exceptional producers, one in the extra large fruit it produces and the other in the quantity it bears. These cattleys both came from the same parent tree but from different fruit. Seedling trees can start bearing within two years and within twelve months when grown from cutting. This is a very attractive plant to grow, the glossy deep green leaves beautifully offsetting the red fruit. The flowers are abundantly produced on new growth which begins to appear in late winter. They begin to open in late March and my trees continue to flush throughout the summer. The flowers appear almost as small white, sweetly scented powder puffs, enhanced by the backdrop of deep green. They are completely self pollinating (although I use my trusty watercolor brush as I do on all my trees). The ripe fruit is ready for picking 90 days later. The small green guavas grow up to an inch and begin to blush red towards maturation, eventually turning a deep crimson and soft when fully ripe. These soft red fruits are deliciously sub-acid in flavor, with a slight hint of strawberry to entice the palate. The fruit has many hard seeds embedded in the pulp but I either grind them up when eating the fruit or simply swallow them whole. After harvest, my cattleys receive a light pruning to promote fruiting shoots and also to reshape the plant. My plants have a habit of producing both upright and horizontal branches and to keep the shape pleasing, I snip off and reshape, many times bending and tying horizontal branches vertically to produce the desired form I want to attain. The yellow or lemon cattley produces much larger yellow fruit, being definitely sweeter with absolutely no hint of sub-acidity. It's a good fruit, but to my taste buds some acidity must be present in a fruit to be truly savory. It also grows in a more open habit, being not as vigorous as the red cattley. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries In Southern California Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:24:38 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Leo, You asked me some time ago about my experiences with blueberry varieties. I am sorry it has taken me so long to respond. The varieties that I have enjoyed the most have been Sharp's Blue and Misty. They are also very vigorous, as is Sunshine Blue. The latter fruits well, although I find the flavor a bit bland. The Jubilee has also grown well, but I don't recall the fruit. I think it has had very little so far. I also have Bluecrop, which is surprisingly vigorous, given that it is a higher-chill variety; however, it has not fruited. All of these are grown in large tubs (2 to 3 per tub) with a mix of one of the commercial organic potting soils and small redwood bark. I feed exclusively with cottonseed meal, though not as often as I should, and water daily or every-other day (depending on weather) via micro-sprayers. Matthew Shugart mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Determining harvest times for cherimoya Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:36:36 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I have my first substantial crop of cherimoyas on trees planted in 2003. I have never hand-pollinated. I wanted to see if planting several varieties densely would result in fruiting without hand-pollination, and I have been pleasantly rewarded with quite a bounty! I have Fino de Jete, Nata, Helmuts, and two seedlings. (One of the seedlings had Selma grafted on it by Leo, but on my way home from his house with this and other trees I bought during one of his plant sales, the tree shifted in the back of my pickup and the graft broke off.) All of the trees have fruit. But, given my inexperience, I am still struggling to determine the optimum harvest times. I would appreciate suggestions. Some of the fruits are very large. Some of the Fino de Jete and Nata have fallen recently, while still hard. They have been ripening well off the tree, but the risk of letting them fall is that four-legged conoisseurs might get to them first. Also, I can't find anything about Helmuts in any of my sources. Does anyone know about this variety? None have fallen yet, and all remain quite firmly attached to the branches. I maintain a blog with photos and information about my fruit-growing experiences, and recently posted a photo of the Helmuts fruits (on 16 November) at http://fruits.laderafrutal.com. Thank you. Matthew Shugart mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Coffeecake and Tamopan persimmon Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:38:49 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I do not know how many people are even aware of the Tamopan persimmon. I recommend it highly. Just in the last week I have harvested some fruit. Determining when to harvest is not easy, as this variety is astringent (implying it must be somewhat soft to be edible), but it also has a hard shell (very unlike Hachiya, for example). I picked three (all that this 4-year-old tree had) as soon as one of them began to soften, The others were still fairly hard. Even as it softens, the skin is thick and firm enough that one can scoop the flesh with a spoon. It is wonderfully sweet and extremely juicy, but without the "slimy" texture that some people find disagreeable in Hachiya. One of my books says the flesh can be a bit stringy, but the one I have sampled was not. I wonder why Tampoan is not more widely grown. Another lesser-known variety is Coffecake. My experience with it has been somewhat frustrating. In the last couple of years, Dave Wilson Nursery (a wholesale grower of deciduous fruit trees in California) has undertaken quite a marketing push for this variety. The name, Coffeecake, is itself part of the marketing push, replacing the previous name under which it was sold, 'Nishimura Wase.' It is supposedly non-astringent and early ripening, although neither characteristic has been my experience, especially this year. Looking back at a photo I posted on my blog in 2005 (http://fruitsandvotes.com/?p=48), I see that the fruit was close to maturity in late August. I don't seem to have kept a record of when I picked them last year, but I see that in a follow-up to a reader's comment at the blog, I indicated that the fruit was very good. However, this year, here we are in early December, and I have eaten only a few of them, and they have been very disappointing. In fact, they are quite astringent. Some of the fruits are turning black on one side, and the flesh inside this blackened area is actually quite good, but the rest of the same piece of fruit is always hard and astringent. The crop has been heavy, and I have periodically taken off an unblemished fruit to see if it would ripen off the tree, but I have not had a good one yet from this year's crop. I wonder if other RFNO readers have experience with this variety. As an aside, I find the marketing push itself almost hilarious. The 'Coffeecake' is described as follows in the Dave Wilson catalogue: "CoffeeCake persimmon [S] has a unique spicy-sweet flavor that instantly brings to mind images of cinnamon pastry, hot coffee and morning sunshine." Sounds great. But consider how it was described by Bay Laurel (a mail-order outlet for Wilson trees) back in 1997, when it was still being sold as 'Nishimura Wase': "New variety from Japan. Earliest known variety to ripen in Calif., late Sept. Medium to large, round and slightly four-sided, non-astringent fruit. Each fruit has four or more seeds, developing a tasty, juicy, chocolate brown flesh." That was the entire description. Amazing what a name change can do! However, as I noted above, I this year's fruit seems not to want to ripen, and to be of poor quality. By the way, none of the fruit this year has had seeds. (I don't recall last year's fruit, whether it had seeds or not.) Could the lack of seeds explain the disappointing fruit this year? The tree is grown in a row with several other varieties (Matsumoto Wase, Chocolate, Tampoan, and Maru, with a Hachiya not far away). The Maru had a few seeds. Matthew Shugart mailto:mshugart@ucsd.edu Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Fruit and triglycerides Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 07:08:41 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Carroll Leo: In recent years my blood tests have also shown a rise in triglycerides. I am not yet diabetic, but I do now look at the poor man next door who can't eat any of my sweet fruit, and shudder about what the future may hold for me. However, a friend recently put me on to some research that shows that cinnamon has an inhibiting effect on triglyceride levels in the blood. I now take a daily spoonful of cinnamon mixed into my regular breakfast. To make it easier to mix, I dissolve several teaspoons in a small jar of hot water, and then keep that in the refrigerator for the week or so it takes me to go through it. Brian [Our pediatrician daughter just recently made the same recommendation, including using the boiled cinnamon used after discarding the solids. Thanks! Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: GTF Chromium Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 19:43:56 -0800 From: Amy Fernandez * Because I have family, who acquired diabetes, I take a GTF Chromium tablet or 2 every day. They sell it at the health food stores, make sure it is a whole foods product. Picolinate is BAD, do not take it * GTF helps make the cell more responsive to insulin, requiring less insulin to be produced. * GTF chromium helps control blood sugar levels by assisting insult to carry glucose to the cells. * Because GTF chromium is important for regulating blood sugar levels, it may be beneficial in the prevention of diabetes and hypoglycemia. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries In Southern California Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:24:38 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Leo, You asked me some time ago about my experiences with blueberry varieties. I am sorry it has taken me so long to respond. The varieties that I have enjoyed the most have been Sharp's Blue and Misty. They are also very vigorous, as is Sunshine Blue. The latter fruits well, although I find the flavor a bit bland. The Jubilee has also grown well, but I don't recall the fruit. I think it has had very little so far. I also have Bluecrop, which is surprisingly vigorous, given that it is a higher-chill variety; however, it has not fruited. All of these are grown in large tubs (2 to 3 per tub) with a mix of one of the commercial organic potting soils and small redwood bark. I feed exclusively with cottonseed meal, though not as often as I should, and water daily or every-other day (depending on weather) via micro-sprayers. Matthew Shugart ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Determining harvest times for cherimoya Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:36:36 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I have my first substantial crop of cherimoyas on trees planted in 2003. I have never hand-pollinated. I wanted to see if planting several varieties densely would result in fruiting without hand-pollination, and I have been pleasantly rewarded with quite a bounty! I have Fino de Jete, Nata, Helmuts, and two seedlings. (One of the seedlings had Selma grafted on it by Leo, but on my way home from his house with this and other trees I bought during one of his plant sales, the tree shifted in the back of my pickup and the graft broke off.) All of the trees have fruit. But, given my inexperience, I am still struggling to determine the optimum harvest times. I would appreciate suggestions. Some of the fruits are very large. Some of the Fino de Jete and Nata have fallen recently, while still hard. They have been ripening well off the tree, but the risk of letting them fall is that four-legged conoisseurs might get to them first. Also, I can't find anything about Helmuts in any of my sources. Does anyone know about this variety? None have fallen yet, and all remain quite firmly attached to the branches. I maintain a blog with photos and information about my fruit-growing experiences, and recently posted a photo of the Helmuts fruits (on 16 November) at http://fruits.laderafrutal.com. Thank you. Matthew Shugart Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Coffeecake and Tamopan persimmon Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:38:49 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I do not know how many people are even aware of the Tamopan persimmon. I recommend it highly. Just in the last week I have harvested some fruit. Determining when to harvest is not easy, as this variety is astringent (implying it must be somewhat soft to be edible), but it also has a hard shell (very unlike Hachiya, for example). I picked three (all that this 4-year-old tree had) as soon as one of them began to soften, The others were still fairly hard. Even as it softens, the skin is thick and firm enough that one can scoop the flesh with a spoon. It is wonderfully sweet and extremely juicy, but without the "slimy" texture that some people find disagreeable in Hachiya. One of my books says the flesh can be a bit stringy, but the one I have sampled was not. I wonder why Tampoan is not more widely grown. Another lesser-known variety is Coffecake. My experience with it has been somewhat frustrating. In the last couple of years, Dave Wilson Nursery (a wholesale grower of deciduous fruit trees in California) has undertaken quite a marketing push for this variety. The name, Coffeecake, is itself part of the marketing push, replacing the previous name under which it was sold, 'Nishimura Wase.' It is supposedly non-astringent and early ripening, although neither characteristic has been my experience, especially this year. Looking back at a photo I posted on my blog in 2005 (http://fruitsandvotes.com/?p=48), I see that the fruit was close to maturity in late August. I don't seem to have kept a record of when I picked them last year, but I see that in a follow-up to a reader's comment at the blog, I indicated that the fruit was very good. However, this year, here we are in early December, and I have eaten only a few of them, and they have been very disappointing. In fact, they are quite astringent. Some of the fruits are turning black on one side, and the flesh inside this blackened area is actually quite good, but the rest of the same piece of fruit is always hard and astringent. The crop has been heavy, and I have periodically taken off an unblemished fruit to see if it would ripen off the tree, but I have not had a good one yet from this year's crop. I wonder if other RFNO readers have experience with this variety. As an aside, I find the marketing push itself almost hilarious. The 'Coffeecake' is described as follows in the Dave Wilson catalogue: "CoffeeCake persimmon [S] has a unique spicy-sweet flavor that instantly brings to mind images of cinnamon pastry, hot coffee and morning sunshine." Sounds great. But consider how it was described by Bay Laurel (a mail-order outlet for Wilson trees) back in 1997, when it was still being sold as 'Nishimura Wase': "New variety from Japan. Earliest known variety to ripen in Calif., late Sept. Medium to large, round and slightly four-sided, non-astringent fruit. Each fruit has four or more seeds, developing a tasty, juicy, chocolate brown flesh." That was the entire description. Amazing what a name change can do! However, as I noted above, I this year's fruit seems not to want to ripen, and to be of poor quality. By the way, none of the fruit this year has had seeds. (I don't recall last year's fruit, whether it had seeds or not.) Could the lack of seeds explain the disappointing fruit this year? The tree is grown in a row with several other varieties (Matsumoto Wase, Chocolate, Tampoan, and Maru, with a Hachiya not far away). The Maru had a few seeds. Matthew Shugart Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN20011A.txt <><><><><><><><><><> -> -> -> -> -> -> Messages <- <- <- <- <- <- <><><><><><><><> New Subscribers <><><><><><><><><> Subject: New Subscriber, CA, Seeks Plant Material Exchange Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2006 07:35:58 -0800 (PST) From: Eyal Givon I am Eyal Givon and live in Yorba Linda, CA I am trying (with some success, need more time and knowledge, I guess) to grow a variety of fruit trees from the more common like Apple, Avocado, Banana, Citruses etc. to the less common like Cherimoya, Guava, Mango, Surinam Cherry etc. I am always looking for interesting, unusual, and most of all tasty new fruits to grow. Some of the trees I am looking for are Carambola, Jaboticaba, Paw paw, Nuts (both common and unusual - got none at this point), Sapotes, Mamey, and more. I have a lot of potential in terms of space to grow trees, but since most of my lot is inside a steep canyon, it requires a lot of work and time to create areas to plant - terraces. I would love to find people that are interested in exchanging plants, scion wood, seedlings, etc. that live around my area. Thanks, Eyal ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Rare Fruit Newsletter Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2006 15:13:44 -0800 (PST) From: Jeff Tokar I am Jeff Tokar in Damascus, MD (Zone 7a, but I think we are in a little frost pocket here so I tend to plan on plants that are a bit more hardy for this zone.) Current Fruit- At the moment, not much. Some apple trees, Raspberry bushes, and three or four varieties of grapew. I am getting a Pawpaw tree from my mother in law. Looking for other trees that I can grow "naturalized" here. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: To subscribe Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 17:55:12 +1000 From: Willmott I am Sue Willmott - Beerwah Qld 4519, Australia I have just planted a lot of trees which I haven't had the pleasure of tasting as yet they include Macadamia, Starfruit,Jabeiconia I think thats how you spell it has dark grape like fruit that grows on the trunk of the tree, Mulberry, Lemonade, Orange, Paw Paw which i'm not having much luck with still a foot tall alive but not doing much, pomegranite, guava, Plum Blueberry which again isn't doing a great deal, rasberry, and Cape gooseberry, Bananas, Custard Apple which again not having much luck with, Mango going well Today with our garden club tastewd a fruit not unlike a mango to taste but not a mango Regards Sue Willmott ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber-Maui-Seeks Fruiting Windbreak Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2006 10:35:57 -1000 From: "Buehler, Christopher" Hi there, My name is Christopher Buehler and I live in Maui. I have personally grown, or have had some experience with, just about any tropical fruit species you can name, i.e. dozens, a hundred, hundreds, more I donÕt know, but of course there are a few I havenÕt, and thereÕs still lots of stuff I donÕt know, so this forum looks perfect for me to find about those ones and to share my knowledge. I am an organic farmer, and have helped to introduce and use sustainable agro-forestry practices on the farms I have worked. One question someone might be able to answer- IÕm looking into planting a pili nut orchard- * acre or so- a small commercial production- does anybody know what degree of variability seedlings would have- is it worth the trouble to find some good varieties to graft? IÕm also trying to think of a nice fruiting windbreak with a root system that is somewhat dry-tolerant, non invasive and can withstand being driven over frequently- any suggestions? ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: To Subscribe to Rare Fruit News Online Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2006 16:43:29 -0800 (PST) From: Marilyn Romaquin Sir, Thank you so much for giving me the chance to subscribe on Rare Fruit News On Line. I am Marilyn Romaquin, Banga, Aklan Philippines. As of this time, I have rambutan, lanzones and other minor fruits. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: resubscribe Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2006 16:06:07 -0500 From: Sunshine Lemme My name is Sunshine Lemme, I live in Montauk, Long Island. We consider it the beginning, but those from Brooklyn call it the end. I guess it's all in your perspective. I'm actually more interested in what we can grow in our near-coastal land in the 'Inner Banks" of North Carolina, Zone 8A I believe, with an altitude of about 1 foot sea level. It's wetland all around, and the cleared land probably was once, too. I hope to do some draining and am trying to add anything to the land that will raise the level of the land - sand, oyster shells, rip rap, old tires, I'm not really very picky. Having grown up in southern California, I find the problem of too much water kind of refreshing, and certainly challenging. My son, who lives on the property, is interested in a greenhouse on the south side of his house, and already has a pineapple in his east window that will go back to the deck in the spring. I'm looking for ideas about growing the not so common fruit both outside in the wet clay soil, and in the greenhouse, when it gets done. TIA S. Glen Lemme, M.S. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: New Subscriber, Employee of Frieda's Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 10:31:19 -0800 From: Ann Marie Hawkins I would like to subscribe to your Rare Fruit Newsletter. My name is Ann Marie Hawkins and I am the New Product Development Manager at Frieda's Inc, a specialty produce company in Los Alamitos, California. Thanks <><><><><><><><><> Readers Write<><><><><><><><><><> Subject: I Need Help Identifying A Tree Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2006 13:08:10 -0800 From: "Richard P. Karasik" Hello I am trying to get some help in identifying a rare fruit tree I have - more like a really large bush It puts out small red berries ( 1/4 inch ) in diameter that are speckled with yellow. When It was sold to me it was called something like heavenly olive - it has nothing at all that looks like an olive on it. It is fruiting now. The fruits are tart sweet. Thank you for your trouble Richard Karasik, Saratoga , CA ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Diabetes and tropical fruit Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 06:46:37 -0500 From: "NancyB." Dear Leo, My Dad has type II diabetes and he can eat some fruits. He grows low - alum persimmons and dries the chips for when he takes along walk and feels shaky. He likes grapefruit halves from our trees because he eats the pulp and bioflavinoids, He eats fresh figs from the bushes because they are very nutritious. He eats homegrown pineapple and papaya for dessert, because pastry has a high glycemic index. You can still eat mangoes but you might try mixing them with other low glycemic index fruits like strawberries and blueberries for a fruit cup. Table grapes have a lot of sugar, and so do temperate black cherries. Tropical blackberries and pomegranites are good for juicing because they have a lot of antioxidants. Any fruit with lots of fiber and trace minerals is very good for you.My dad said that he can eat a banana, but it has to fit in the palm of his hand for portion control. He is in his 70s and he has to eat more fruit with minerals like Potassium. He has to keep his vascular system in good order because PNS is a side effect of long term Diabetes II I hope this helps. Regards, Nancy from Florida, USDA Zone 9b ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Dehydrate Miracle Fruit? Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 10:42:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Shaindy Hi Leo Happy Holidays and thanks for a great newsletter Re: Miracle Fruit dehydration - Doesn't work - Even when they dry out in the freezer they lose their effectiveness. Need to eat more than just one. Believe it is the juice not the pulp that creates the miracle. I dehydrate mango (pureed and sliced), carambola, cherries, herbs, etc. Regards Shirley ------------------------------------------------ Subject: I'm looking for the banana Ae Ae Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 03:25:23 +0100 (MET) From: "XPAGAN@terra.es" Hello, I am Pedro, I am a Spaniard, Do you know where I can obtain banana Ae Ae? Please send an e-mail. thanks ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Growing Rare Fruit In Containers Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 03:59:15 -0800 (PST) From: Yvrose Valdez Hi Leo, What kind of fruit trees can I go in containers in Miami and how do I prevent root bound? Thanks, Eve ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Growing Rare Fruit In Containers Date: 5 December 2006 To: Yvrose Valdez The following is extracted from: UnderCover Crops - Mobile Tropical Fruit Orchards By Ray Bayer Tropical Fruit World (March/April 1990 22-24; May/June 1990 58-59; September/October 1990 130; Nov/Dec 1990 163; Jan/Feb 1991 29 Let me inspire you to discover a new kind of gardening pleasure. My excitement is over the container growing of tropical fruit plants, something I have now been doing for more than 13 years. Each year proving more pleasurable than the last. For the temperate climate gardener containerizing is the only method available for growing tropical fruit trees. I live in southwest Pennsylvania, and as I write this article we're in the midst of a winter snow squall with a wind chill of around 9¡F. My tropical fruit trees are completely unaware of this miserable phenomenon known as an Arctic cold front and are busily blooming and setting fruit. After a summer outdoors, and before the first freeze, I simply pick up my potted plants and plop them in a greenhouse under fluorescent lights, where they spend their winter in the Tropic of Pennsylvania. The ability of these plants to adapt to their artificial environment and continual restrictive growing is tremendous. As I write, my plants are setting such varied fruits as jaboticaba, passionfruit, citrus, cherimoyas, feijoas and more. Enthusiasm over this method of tropical fruit culture need not be confined to northern gardeners. South Florida growers and others in sub-tropical and mild winter areas should be exposed to the joy of containerized growing. It opens up an entirely new area to the rare fruit hobbyist. Fruit trees can be moved from one area of the yard to another to take advantage of sun or shade. Inspection of root systems can be done as needed by simply tapping the tree out of the pot. Landscapes can be achieved by sinking the potted trees into various locations, and later moving them if a different garden scheme is desired. Exact watering and fertilization schedules are easier because confined root systems and nutrient deficiencies are taken care of more quickly. One of the most exciting aspects of this type of gardening is that, thanks to the portability of the plant, very tropical fruit trees, such as the South Asian mangosteen and rambutan, can be grown with little worry of frost or cold damage. In Florida this advantage, of course applies to any cold sensitive species. When the temperature threatens to plummet simply pick up the pot and set it in a protected area, whether a Florida room or a garage. Most trees will thrive for years in five to ten gallon pots without any special care. As most tropicals fruit on new growth, I usually top prune mine yearly to stimulate new fruiting growth, sometimes taking up to a third of the growth off. This drastic one-third reduction is done (if at all) every fourth or fifth year, and is sometimes accompanied by root pruning, also a one-third reduction. This is done by knocking the tree out of the pot and reducing the root system on all four sides and bottom by using a key hole saw or similar tool. The tree is then put back in the pot and fresh potting medium is packed around it, along with slow release fertilizer if desired. It is then set in a semi-shaded location in the yard (or greenhouse) until new growth is evident and the flowering/fruiting cycle will be revitalized. This is only done to trees that are stressed due to extreme root crowding and exhibit root bound symptoms by producing small or no fruit crops, small leaves and little new growth. Of course this stage of stunted growth is rarely ever reached, although newly purchased plants may be in need of an immediate root cut. Fibrous roots appearing on the top of the soil is the sign that it is now time to prune or repot. Pot grown fruit trees usually have a completely fibrous root system, being devoid of a tap root, so this method of keeping the tree within bounds is not at all detrimental. Think of it as having your hair styled; a little off the top and sides always makes your hair grow better and look fuller. So it is with containerized fruit trees. Every spring I like to replace the top three or four inches of soil with fresh medium. This gives the plant a growing boost and aids in better fruit production. My fruit trees are grown in a homemade potting mix of two-parts garden loam or packaged potting soil, one-part perlite, one-part vermiculite and a half-part peat. I also use a commercial soilless mix consisting of sphagnum or peat moss, vermiculite, perlite and dolomite lime for a pH buffer in which the trees seem to do as well as or better than in the soil mixture, though it needs to be enhanced more often with fertilizer. It should be noted that the reason I add lime to my soil mix is that fertilizing containerized trees often tends to lower the pH to the point where the nutrients are bound up in the soil making them unavailable to the plant; adding a small amount of dolomite lime simply keeps the pH in the neutral range. Of course, some fruit trees enjoy being on the acidic side of the pH tables as long as nutrients are available to them. Jaboticabas do well in a pure peat, perlite, vermiculite mixture. I usually use diluted amounts of fertilizer with every watering and full strength dosages twice monthly or more depending on rainfall. Due to the fact that the trees are raised in containers, nutrient leaching can be a problem in areas or seasons of heavy rain. I've found that Peter's 20-20-20 fertilizer mixture to be as close to ideal as any. I also supplement many of my trees with triple super phosphate every four to six weeks during the growing season along with a foliar feeding of potassium nitrate. Spraying is done in early morning and evening when the leaves are most receptive to this type of feeding. Once or twice a season I also spray on trace elements to round out their diet. Chlorosis of certain containerized trees can be a problem, but prudent applications of nitrogen corrects this problem as does iron. Passifloras, for instance, are susceptible to chlorotic new growth and require more nitrogen than either citrus or peach trees. Care must be taken whenever iron or nitrogen is sprayed on new growth to avoid burning. I have made the "more is better" mistake in foliar feeding before and it is not a pleasant sight to watch vigorous healthy new growth turn black almost overnight, shrivel up and flake away. Healthy deep green growth inevitably always appears but it sets back flower and fruit production considerably. Following the manufacturer's dosage is the key to successful chemical feeding. Personally, I use water soluble fertilizer, as I feel I have much more control over plant feeding with this method. Other growers might prefer the longer lasting pellet-type feed. There are various long lasting pellet fertilizers available that provide up to three months of constant feeding. Osmocote 14-14-14 is one such product. Many opt for completely organic feed such as bone meal, blood meal and green sand, but the percentage of nutrients are so low that I don't think a heavy feeding tree would benefit satisfactorily from them. The one organic I do use is fish, especially those from the briny depths of the sea. The trace elements and nitrogen these critters can supply to a potted fruit tree is tremendous, and it's a long lasting supply too. A few cubes of finny flesh will last a northern growing season and then some. Watering is, of course critical to all plants but especially to a potted fruit tree. During the summer a healthy, fruiting containerized tree drinks gallons of water. I've often had to water mine every other day. Growers in sub-tropical areas such as Florida who are used to growing in the ground may be watering more than they're accustomed to. This can be remedied somewhat by mulching the top of the pot with dried grass clippings, unmilled sphagnum moss or pre-packaged mulch. During the summer most fruit trees are holding a crop and dry soil can turn this year's pot crop into this year's pot drop: those delicious lychees may be this past year's history with only one soil drying. One of the best methods of preventing evaporation is by sinking the pot in the ground and mulching the top. Also, use plastic pots. Burying the containers gives added wind protection to the trees. It's frustrating to find a fruit laden tree toppled over and half of its' crop knocked off. Even by sinking the pot one third of its height into the ground will prevent this type of frustration. There are many reliable nurseries and growers in the U.S. who will ship tropical fruit trees. When visiting a nursery that has a plant I am looking for, I provide them with a suitable box with return postage and have them ship the plant to me. The tree is simply knocked out of the pot and bare rooted with the roots wrapped in damp newspaper and a trash bag to prevent leakage. Many nurseries will spray the plants with evaporation retardants to prevent water loss. The tree usually needs to be pruned back, sometimes severely, and is then placed in the box surrounded by newspaper to prevent too much movement in transit. It usually takes three days to reach me from Florida. In this short period of time the tree suffers very little damage, if any, and upon arrival is immediately potted up and placed in a protected location for a few days. Once acclimation is over it is placed in full sun and within a couple of weeks begins to push out new growth. I have been shipping plants for many years this way and I have never lost one due to shipping damage or shock. I usually request priority mail shipment through the U.S. postal service because they deliver six days out of the week unlike United Parcel Service which ships only five. My trees don't really feel their first spring breeze until mid-April when they are set outside. This is a critical time for the plants, being the beginning of their summer reacclimation period. They have been wintered over either in a greenhouse (which happens to be plastic with light intensity much less than glass) and under fluorescent lights. If they are exposed to sunlight immediately, even the weak spring sum, the leaves will be charred almost at once. I set them in a shaded location for a few days, then to an area of dappled sunlight and eventually to full sun. This entire process may take from two to three weeks depending on how the trees are reacting. If I notice bleached areas on the leaves, then they have been exposed to the sun too quickly and will be placed in a semishaded area a while longer. This acclimation period is not lost growing time because the trees are actively sending out new growth. It's simply a period of "hardening up" the leaves to the summer sun. The last years' growth is rarely affected to the extent of the current seasons growth; it usually stays green with no signs of scorching. The nights during mid-April to mid-May can drop more than 40 degrees which means a 70¡F day can be followed by a 30¡F night. This is a period of overwork for me because there is a likely chance the trees will have to be sheltered in the garage from a cold night. It doesn't happen nightly and rarely in May so the only early-season backaches I suffer are in the last weeks of April. After this initial yearly acclimating period, my trees grow as well as the same trees in Florida. The portability of my fruit orchard allows me to grow quite a number of different tropical fruit trees, and to see them flowering and fruiting in Pennsylvania is a definite sight to behold. Next to a black oak may be a blooming carambola or beside a sugar maple a jaboticaba crop will be ready to harvest. Crawling skyward beside a clematis is a passionvine while my red cattleya guava is ripening next to a dwarfing cherry. My summer yard is a pleasing combination of temperate and tropical. This infusion of tropical fruit trees among the standard zone varieties adds a measure of curiosity and appeal to all who see them. When viewing a Passiflora alata (Fragrant Granadilla) in full bloom for the first time a neighbor was absolutely convinced that the flowers were plastic because, as she stated," a flower just doesn't look like that." The incredible complexity of the passionflower certainly lends itself to be called the ultimate in flora beauty just as containerizing is the pinnacle of tropical fruit culture, at least for the temperate zone gardener. I have found one of the finest trees suitable for potted fruit culture to be the jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora). Flowering and fruiting occur throughout the year but it's during winter, spring and early summer that the trees become absolutely mobbed with delicious, 1" deep purple fruit. This small, bushy Brazilian tree develops a luxuriant deep green canopy that literally shields the branches and trunk from the sun. I've found that if the tree is kept from branching too much and kept somewhat open by judicial pruning a larger crop will be produced. The jaboticaba grows beautifully here in Pennsylvania and looks a bit like a large branchy privet. This is a plant that responds well to a supplemental diet of triple superphosphate, potassium nitrate as a foliar feed and constant water. It grows well in a soilless mix (available commercially) or simply pure peat with perlite and vermiculite added and a top mulch of rich humus. The real delights in growing this small tree are the fruit, which it so eagerly produces and tree's style of flowering and fruiting. The jaboticaba is cauliflorus, which means the flowers and fruit are borne directly on the trunk and larger branches. It is a pleasantly shocking revelation to the uninitiated to see a bumper crop of fruit for the first time covering the branches in purple clusters from the trunk to the uppermost canopy. They're even more amazed when told that it takes only 20 to 30 days for the fruit to mature and that up to eight crops a year can be harvested, making this tree an almost perpetual bearer. The final treat comes when they bite into a ripe fruit. The flavor is deliciously sweet with just the right amount of subacidity and plenty of Jaboticaba tree and fruit juice encased in a chewy outer skin. The result is invariably, "mmmmm.... that was delicious! How about another one?" This is a fruit that the novice fruit-taster likes immediately. An added incentive to growing the jaboticaba is that it is practically pest free. The only drawback is that it is primarily grown from seed and takes from seven to fifteen years to start bearing. I also grow Myciaria glomerata, which produces fuzzy yellow fruit of smaller size than the jaboticaba. The fruit is composed practically entirely of a single seed surrounded by a small amount of pleasantly sweet pulp. I am also growing M. vexator and M. jaboticaba but they are seedlings and still quite small. In my opinion, the jaboticaba is a prime candidate for commercial exploitation due to its overall taste appeal. My evidence for this is that during cropping, people I haven't seen for weeks will stroll into my yard, casually look around and walk away with jaboticaba breath. The passionvine (Passiflora spp.) is another fruiting plant that is well suited to container culture. I have over fifty different species and grow them not only for the fruit but also for their stunning flowers. I grow all of them around galvanized hoops pushed into the pots and wrap the rambling shoots around them. I have unraveled vines up to 15' in length from the hoops when trimming them back for their winter rest. Passiflora not only rewards the grower with delicious fruit but also with one of the most delicate and complex flowers in the plant kingdom. With over 400 species known (mostly native to the American tropics) I grow only a small fraction of what could be container grown. I'm constantly adding to my collection and grow them with fruiting almost as an afterthought! This is how much reverence I place in the flower. Passifloras are vines and they definitely like to ramble, so I raise most of them in 13" to 15" pots to keep their root systems happy. As mentioned earlier, these plants go chlorotic rather quickly and are also heavy feeders. They require more nitrogen than citrus and also iron supplements during the growing season. I feed them nitrogen and iron monthly during the summer, or whenever I notice the new growth turning chlorotic. As with all of my other fruit trees, I use diluted fertilizer almost every time I water. There are many fruiting passionvines that the tropical fruit gardener can grow but two species should definitely be mandatory. These are the purple granadilla (Passiflora edulis) and the giant granadilla (Passiflora quadrangularis). There are many others that produce fruit as good or possibly better, but due to difficulties such as pollination they have been omitted. The purple granadilla is an extremely easy plant to fruit in a container and during the growing season is loaded with fruit. The flowers of this species will usually pollinate themselves, although I usually cross pollinate with other clones for maximum fruit set and size. It is not unusual for clones of P. edulis to produce nearly tennis ball sized fruit. The purple and white flower opens in the morning and usually closes in the evening, pollinating itself in the process. The result is usually noticeable in three to five days with the swelling of the fruit. Maturation is fairly rapid in my geographic area, taking from three to four months. Fruits that are evident in April are edible by July or August. Fruits of the purple granadilla are, as the name implies, dark I purple and fall from the vine when I ripe. The shell of this passionfruit is hard, so the fall doesn't bruise it. A gentle tug will also dislodge ripe fruit. I Once off the plant I usually let it ripen another two to three days until wrinkled and enhanced by a delightful ambrosial aroma. The fruit is I then halved and the pulp is scooped out and eaten, seeds included. Delicious! There is nothing quite like a juicy, fully ripened passionfruit to conjure up tropical visions of verdant lowland rainforests, raucous early morning fruit markets and the soothing lull of evening trade winds. The fruit of the giant granadilla also coats the palate with the same delectable tropical flavor but on a much larger scale. The fruit can be as large as a football and weigh up to six pounds! Unlike the leaves of P. edulis, which are deeply three lobed with serrated edges, the giant granadilla's leaves are oval, unlobed and up to eight inches long, with ten to twelve pronounced lateral veins running through them. The flowers are also larger-up to three inches in diameter - and pendulous; they hang downward instead of being held upright. There are actually two forms of P. quadrangularis, one with eight inch long fruit and one producing twelve inch long melon size meals! There is some self-compatibility in both forms, although some growers recommend cross-pollination with the larger form. Hand pollination will assure a good fruit set. The outer shell is not hard like the purple granadilla but somewhat soft and bruisable. When ripe the color turns to yellow-green with some clones exhibiting a slight pinkish blush at one end. Cut lengthwise the fruit opens to a mass of pulp covered seeds nestled in a cavity surrounded by a thick white melon-like rind. The rind can be eaten much the same way a melon is eaten, but it is not as aromatic. The pulp again is the main attraction and it's eaten straight from the shell along with the large soft seeds. It's very juicy, pleasantly sub-acid and aromatic. The green, immature fruits of this species can also be boiled and eaten as a vegetable, and in Jamaica the tuberous roots are said to be used as a substitute for yams. Quite a versatile plant! Most passifloras will begin to produce within a year to sixteen months when being grown from seed, and almost immediately when grown from cuttings. I have found that unrooted cuttings sent through the mail survive their journey nicely when dampened and sent in zip lock bags. I have received cuttings by this method from as far away as Honduras and have had them root within three weeks. There are many other passionvines that produce delicious fruit, but due to a number of problems with pollination, climatic requirements, poor flower production and other difficulties, these have been omitted. A few of the "best of the difficult" are P. ligularis (sweet granadilla), P. laurifolia (yellow granadilla), P. maliformis (sweet calabash) and P. antioquiensis (banana passionfruit). Cherimoya of Pennsylvania Mark Twain knew much about much and when biting into a particular fruit described it as 'Deliciousness itself! He was raving about the cherimoya (Annona cherimola) and the taste description still applies. I grow two varieties: 'Booth' and 'Pierce', and I couldn't agree more. Both flower freely for me but the 'Booth' is the only variety old enough to let a crop set. The cherimoya originated in the mountains of Ecuador and Peru, and since its' introduction into the gardening community many named cultivars have been produced. Mine are both grafted and grown in 18" pots. The cherimoya is a knobby looking fruit. The skin is smooth, light green and from lumpy to almost scale-like in appearance. My 'Booth' is more on the lumpy side. Cherimoyas may weigh up to a few pounds, with the fruit shape ranging from heart-shaped to oval. But no matter what shape or size, the true test of a fruit of legendary stature is decided by the palate and the cherimoya lives up to expectations. People are at first taken aback by the appearance of the fruit hanging from their thick stems on my tree and I have even been asked if it was a new avocado-pear hybrid! The cherimoya goes through a short deciduous period and the flowering takes place during this defoliated stage which adds even more to the peculiarity of the tree. The leaf drop is due to the formation of buds (flower and/or vegetative) beneath the petiole juncture. They first appear as small knobby protuberances encased in a fuzzy brown sheath. As they grow this sheath splits and the new growth presents itself along with the flowers. The flowers are fairly unattractive but produced in abundance. They are about l" long, greenish-yellow in color and very fleshy, exuding a wonderfully fruity fragrance. Once you detect this aroma the one major problem of the is at hand: hand-pollination. The flower is perfect, containing both stigmas and stamens (male and female reproductive organs) but herein lies the problem. The male is not ready when the female is - a botanical reversal of 'not to night, I have a headache' syndrome. She is usually ready the day before he is. That is, the pistils are receptive from 12 to 24 hours before the pollen is shed. There is a simple, though time consuming, remedy for this situation. Collect pollen from a male flower (the petals will be wide open) and place it in an empty 35mm film canister or a similar container. Next, find the receptive female. She'll be easy to spot because her petals will only be partially opened. Spread the three thick petals carefully with one hand and with a pollen laden paint brush (which has been dipped in the canister) gently stroke back and forth across the receptive pistils. Voila! a baby cherimoya will be born! There really can be no mistake in choosing the correct flower because they are either closed tightly, partially opened or completely spread apart. The success rate using this method is very high. Once fruit set is complete, maturation takes from five to ten months. During this time the tree will have adorned itself with new foliage and have become a very attractive member of the container orchard. The leaves are large, from 8" to 10" long, medium green on top with the brownish green underside exhibiting a velvety texture. Here in Pennsylvania, my cherimoyas shed their leaves in November-December, with flower buds evidenced towards the end of December. Actual pollination and fruit set doesn't take place until mid-February. My 'Booth' is a very precocious bloomer, producing at least some flowers throughout the summer and fall. It's very easy to get carried away with pollination so I selectively pollinate to be assured of four or five good sized fruit as opposed to a dozen smaller ones. The fruit is mature when a yellowish cast appears on the skin. It is now that they should be clipped, not picked off the tree. If they are pulled off, the core may remain attached to the stem. I usually let mine ripen from three to five days off the tree at room temperature. Once a ripe fruit is in your possession, have a pen and paper handy, because once one is eaten, you definitely have something to write home about! Cut it lengthwise and spoon out the white custard-like flesh. Get ready for an oral explosion as it melts in your mouth, releasing a juicy blend of tropical flavors - subacid and delicate, with taste tones of banana, papaya and pineapple is one way to describe it. As was so aptly stated by one Dr. Seemann more than 70 years ago, "Many people feel that the taste of the cherimoya surpasses every other fruit. That it is the masterpiece of nature." That fellow certainly knew what he was talking about. The best way to grow cherimoyas is to purchase one or more of the many grafted varieties available, which include 'White', 'Ott', 'Honeyhart' and 'Bays'. They can also be grown from seed and come into bearing after four years, but probably will not be true to type. Like the feijoa, a cherimoya requires a certain amount of chilling to flower, estimated at between 50 to 100 hours at 35¡F to 45¡F*. *[Editor's note: in southern Florida the cherimoya set flowers several times a year. Anything that causes defoliation sets the stage for a fresh batch of flowers. Though cold weather is certainly effective in this regard, so is dry-wet cycle, fertilizer shock, manual leaf stripping and pruning - Har Maheem]. Again, the warmer sections of the nation lose out but in this case a few substitute annonas can be grown. One is the sugar apple or sweetsop (Annona squamosa) which is a dependable bearer in the south Florida climate. The fruit is much knobbier and smaller than the cherimoya but the flesh exhibits a similar taste quality. The soursop or guanabana (Annona muricata) is another cherimoya relative and is the most tropical of the annonas. The fruit is the largest of the family, being 6" to 9" long, and is covered with soft fleshy spines. The flesh is juicy and more sub-acid in flavor and some people claim that the aftertaste is reminiscent of mango. The atemoya is a hybrid between the sugar apple and cherimoya and is the perfect marriage. Traits of both are blended together perfectly-the sweetsop's tolerance of humid, warm climates and the cherimoya's exquisite taste. The atemoya was hybridized between 1908 and 1910 in Miami, and continues to be the most reliable producer for that subtropical climate. Carambola: Star of Pennsylvania By Ray Bayer The star fruit or carambola (Averrhoa carambola) can be the centerpiece of any tropical fruit orchard, not only for its crisp sweet taste, but also because of the unusual structure of the fruit. The carambola has 4 to 6 prominently raised ribs traveling the length of the fruit and when cut horizontally, voila, a star is born! The cut fruit looks distinctly starlike, the number of ribs determining the number of points on the star. If the shape of the fruit isn't unusual enough, its coloration and skin texture add even more to the fruit's pleasing strangeness. The mature fruit is a beautiful bright yellow, and due to a heavy coating of natural wax, the skin shines as though it's been painted with enamel lacquer. For all of its uniqueness and exotic eye appeal though, the carambola is a pleasure to grow in a container and very easy to bring into fruiting. I grow two varieties, the 'Arkin' and 'Fwang Tung, and both provide me with stellar fruiting performances every year. My trees are grown in 17" pots and the soil is kept on the acidic side. I use ammonia sulfate on the carambolas several times during the growing season (as I do with several other trees) and they simply revel in this treatment. Beginning in late winter, flowers appear in seemingly constant flushes. They appear as inflorescences from the leaf axils (where the leaf attaches to the tree) on young growth or where the leaves have fallen away on old growth. The small flowers are beautifully lilac, pleasantly fragrant and perfect, although, again, I assist pollination with my ever-present brush. Fruit maturation takes from 3 to 5 months depending on the weather and the time of the season in which the tree is holding fruit. The carambola is such an exuberant producer that I have had two foot high airlayers holding six fruit. Vegetatively propagated plants are the only reliable method of growing this tree because fruit taste ranges from sour to very sweet, with the fruit produced by seedlings almost guaranteed to be poor. Another interesting point about the star fruit is that the compound leaves have the ability to fold back at night only to open again in the morning. When I first started growing the trees I was unaware of this trait. It was in the evening on the day after they arrived from Florida that I first noticed the folded leaves and it was right after I had fertilized them. Of course I immediately thought I had done them in. However, the morning brought with it not only unfurled leaves but the awareness that this ability was just another distinctive characteristic of the carambola. The one minor problem in growing this tree that could eventually become very bothersome is that the trees attracts spider mites. I'm sure for Florida growers this problem is nonexistent but to greenhouse gardeners it could easily get out of control. This problem only becomes evident in the winter when the trees are quartered to the hothouse and is quickly remedied by soapy water or other means, usually chemical. Other than this one inconvenience, the carambola is certainly one of my top picks for its ease of culture and abundance of fruit it produces so regularly. Psidium of Pennsylvania For the grower who can't be bothered with such tedious tasks as hand pollination or laying awake at night worrying about whether his beloved flowers are going to be male or female, the tropical guava (Psidium guajava) is the tree to grow. This small Central American tree is not overly concerned with the care it receives and is very tolerant of a neglectful owner. This is not to say that it can be thrown in a closet and be expected to produce fruit, but it is quite flexible in its growing requirements. I have raised a number of different varieties over the years and all have borne fruit without the slightest hesitation. At present, I am growing the 'Supreme', 'Redland', 'Beaumont', and 'Mexican Cream' varieties. All perform beautifully in 13 in. to 15 in. pots with a minimum of care. The guava is a fast grower and to keep it in bounds I prune it heavily (every other year drastically) immediately after the fruit has ripened, which for me happens to be in late fall to early winter. I usually take off nearly all of the current season's new growth, clipping it as close as possible to a dormant leaf bud. Due to the fact that the leaves are produced opposite one another, this single cut institutes a double response from the plant in that it produces two new growing shoots. This "two for one" effect is very beneficial to the plant and grower because flowers are produced on new growth and the trimming also revitalizes the plant, resulting in larger fruit. The new growth will appear as day length increases, which for me is mid-January. The flowers, which are produced along with the new growth, open up in May and are completely self-pollinating, although cross-pollination will produce more fruit. You can smell a flowering guava from a distance, the pleasing scent blanketing the growing area, inviting bees and other buzzing creatures to grab a free tropical meal. During this period of accelerated growth, I ply my trees with heavy doses of fertilized water which they imbibe gratefully, the extra dosage helping the nurturing of the plants' fruit. After flowering is completed, mature fruit delivery takes from four to six months. Growth slows considerably during this period, the plants' abundant energy now being funneled into the development of its fruit. It is during this holding stage that I lightly prune the trees, snipping back the more vigorous non-fruiting shoots or simply cutting off undesired branches. Watering during this time is very critical to the maturing guavas (as it is with all developing fruit) and prolonged dryness can lead to dry pulpless fruit. Four to six months is a too long a time to wait for fruit to ripen into worthless, dried out shells. My guavas ripen from September to November, with a slight color change in the yellow skin indicating maturation. Ripe fruit is also soft to the touch. Taste varies considerably among my varieties, ranging from the deliciously sweet dessert type ('Supreme') to the acidic processing type ('Beaumont'). Seediness also varies from extreme to minimal, with some fruit varieties being practically seed free. Flesh is either reddish or white in all varieties. Guavas are an excellent source of vitamin C and A, both higher in the red fleshed variety. For you health-conscious growers out there, this is the fruit for you! It has a remarkable number of uses ranging from medicinal (the leaves when chewed alleviate toothaches) to recreational (a fine wine can be made from the fermented fruit). When the leaves are boiled and the resulting broth drunk, diarrhea can be remedied; and as a mouthwash it helps cure swollen gums. These folk remedies are used in third world countries where the availability of Bayer aspirin or Pepto-Bismol is non-existent. In some cultures I'm sure that the tropical guava is quite an indispensable plant, one that's usefulness far exceeds simply a ripe fruit. The red cattley or strawberry guava (Psidium cattleianum) is another one of those ego-boosting subtropicals that makes the transition from temperate gardening to tropical fruit container gardening so successful. I state 'ego-boosting' because this plant is assured of producing fruit for the novice. It's the perfect crossover fruit to choose for the grower who would like to begin a tropical container orchard. The red cattley has always been one of my favorites and like the tropical guava doesn't require an abundance of care. I grow two red cattleys and one yellow or lemon cattley, this yellow variety bearing much larger fruit. The red strawberry guava is usually grown from seed because it produces true by this method. There's no noticeable variation in fruit quality from the parent tree. I have found that the only variation in seedling plants is in size and production, and not fruit taste. Two seedlings I have grown in particular have turned out to be exceptional producers, one in the extra large fruit it produces and the other in the quantity it bears. These cattleys both came from the same parent tree but from different fruit. Seedling trees can start bearing within two years and within twelve months when grown from cutting. This is a very attractive plant to grow, the glossy deep green leaves beautifully offsetting the red fruit. The flowers are abundantly produced on new growth which begins to appear in late winter. They begin to open in late March and my trees continue to flush throughout the summer. The flowers appear almost as small white, sweetly scented powder puffs, enhanced by the backdrop of deep green. They are completely self pollinating (although I use my trusty watercolor brush as I do on all my trees). The ripe fruit is ready for picking 90 days later. The small green guavas grow up to an inch and begin to blush red towards maturation, eventually turning a deep crimson and soft when fully ripe. These soft red fruits are deliciously sub-acid in flavor, with a slight hint of strawberry to entice the palate. The fruit has many hard seeds embedded in the pulp but I either grind them up when eating the fruit or simply swallow them whole. After harvest, my cattleys receive a light pruning to promote fruiting shoots and also to reshape the plant. My plants have a habit of producing both upright and horizontal branches and to keep the shape pleasing, I snip off and reshape, many times bending and tying horizontal branches vertically to produce the desired form I want to attain. The yellow or lemon cattley produces much larger yellow fruit, being definitely sweeter with absolutely no hint of sub-acidity. It's a good fruit, but to my taste buds some acidity must be present in a fruit to be truly savory. It also grows in a more open habit, being not as vigorous as the red cattley. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries In Southern California Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:24:38 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Leo, You asked me some time ago about my experiences with blueberry varieties. I am sorry it has taken me so long to respond. The varieties that I have enjoyed the most have been Sharp's Blue and Misty. They are also very vigorous, as is Sunshine Blue. The latter fruits well, although I find the flavor a bit bland. The Jubilee has also grown well, but I don't recall the fruit. I think it has had very little so far. I also have Bluecrop, which is surprisingly vigorous, given that it is a higher-chill variety; however, it has not fruited. All of these are grown in large tubs (2 to 3 per tub) with a mix of one of the commercial organic potting soils and small redwood bark. I feed exclusively with cottonseed meal, though not as often as I should, and water daily or every-other day (depending on weather) via micro-sprayers. Matthew Shugart ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Determining harvest times for cherimoya Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:36:36 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I have my first substantial crop of cherimoyas on trees planted in 2003. I have never hand-pollinated. I wanted to see if planting several varieties densely would result in fruiting without hand-pollination, and I have been pleasantly rewarded with quite a bounty! I have Fino de Jete, Nata, Helmuts, and two seedlings. (One of the seedlings had Selma grafted on it by Leo, but on my way home from his house with this and other trees I bought during one of his plant sales, the tree shifted in the back of my pickup and the graft broke off.) All of the trees have fruit. But, given my inexperience, I am still struggling to determine the optimum harvest times. I would appreciate suggestions. Some of the fruits are very large. Some of the Fino de Jete and Nata have fallen recently, while still hard. They have been ripening well off the tree, but the risk of letting them fall is that four-legged conoisseurs might get to them first. Also, I can't find anything about Helmuts in any of my sources. Does anyone know about this variety? None have fallen yet, and all remain quite firmly attached to the branches. I maintain a blog with photos and information about my fruit-growing experiences, and recently posted a photo of the Helmuts fruits (on 16 November) at http://fruits.laderafrutal.com. Thank you. Matthew Shugart Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Coffeecake and Tamopan persimmon Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:38:49 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I do not know how many people are even aware of the Tamopan persimmon. I recommend it highly. Just in the last week I have harvested some fruit. Determining when to harvest is not easy, as this variety is astringent (implying it must be somewhat soft to be edible), but it also has a hard shell (very unlike Hachiya, for example). I picked three (all that this 4-year-old tree had) as soon as one of them began to soften, The others were still fairly hard. Even as it softens, the skin is thick and firm enough that one can scoop the flesh with a spoon. It is wonderfully sweet and extremely juicy, but without the "slimy" texture that some people find disagreeable in Hachiya. One of my books says the flesh can be a bit stringy, but the one I have sampled was not. I wonder why Tampoan is not more widely grown. Another lesser-known variety is Coffecake. My experience with it has been somewhat frustrating. In the last couple of years, Dave Wilson Nursery (a wholesale grower of deciduous fruit trees in California) has undertaken quite a marketing push for this variety. The name, Coffeecake, is itself part of the marketing push, replacing the previous name under which it was sold, 'Nishimura Wase.' It is supposedly non-astringent and early ripening, although neither characteristic has been my experience, especially this year. Looking back at a photo I posted on my blog in 2005 (http://fruitsandvotes.com/?p=48), I see that the fruit was close to maturity in late August. I don't seem to have kept a record of when I picked them last year, but I see that in a follow-up to a reader's comment at the blog, I indicated that the fruit was very good. However, this year, here we are in early December, and I have eaten only a few of them, and they have been very disappointing. In fact, they are quite astringent. Some of the fruits are turning black on one side, and the flesh inside this blackened area is actually quite good, but the rest of the same piece of fruit is always hard and astringent. The crop has been heavy, and I have periodically taken off an unblemished fruit to see if it would ripen off the tree, but I have not had a good one yet from this year's crop. I wonder if other RFNO readers have experience with this variety. As an aside, I find the marketing push itself almost hilarious. The 'Coffeecake' is described as follows in the Dave Wilson catalogue: "CoffeeCake persimmon [S] has a unique spicy-sweet flavor that instantly brings to mind images of cinnamon pastry, hot coffee and morning sunshine." Sounds great. But consider how it was described by Bay Laurel (a mail-order outlet for Wilson trees) back in 1997, when it was still being sold as 'Nishimura Wase': "New variety from Japan. Earliest known variety to ripen in Calif., late Sept. Medium to large, round and slightly four-sided, non-astringent fruit. Each fruit has four or more seeds, developing a tasty, juicy, chocolate brown flesh." That was the entire description. Amazing what a name change can do! However, as I noted above, I this year's fruit seems not to want to ripen, and to be of poor quality. By the way, none of the fruit this year has had seeds. (I don't recall last year's fruit, whether it had seeds or not.) Could the lack of seeds explain the disappointing fruit this year? The tree is grown in a row with several other varieties (Matsumoto Wase, Chocolate, Tampoan, and Maru, with a Hachiya not far away). The Maru had a few seeds. Matthew Shugart Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California Subject: CRFG San Diego Chapter Newsletter Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2006 08:57:46 -0800 From: Leo Manuel December meeting is Friday, December 15, 2006 Agenda: General Meeting & Elections: 7:00 Ð 7:45 pm Holiday Dinner: 7:45 pm Ð 8:30 pm Election Results: 8:30 pm Gift Exchange: 8:45 pm Meeting Place: Rm. 101, Casa del Prado, Balboa Park, San Diego CA Chair: David Silverstein chair@crfgsandiego.org Vice-Chair: Paul Fisher Membership and Treasurer 619/ 440 2213 Holiday Party & Elections Come celebrate the holidays with us. Buffet style ÒpotluckÓ dinner. The Chapter will provide ham and turkey. Remember to bring your favorite dish to share. WeÕll have the Election Results during dinner. Gift Exchange to follow. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: fruit and triglycerides Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 07:08:41 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Carroll Leo: In recent years my blood tests have also shown a rise in triglycerides. I am not yet diabetic, but I do now look at the poor man next door who can't eat any of my sweet fruit, and shudder about what the future may hold for me. However, a friend recently put me on to some research that shows that cinnamon has an inhibiting effect on triglyceride levels in the blood. I now take a daily spoonful of cinnamon mixed into my regular breakfast. To make it easier to mix, I dissolve several teaspoons in a small jar of hot water, and then keep that in the refrigerator for the week or so it takes me to go through it. Brian [Our pediatrician daughter just recently made the same recommendation, including using the boiled cinnamon used after discarding the solids. Thanks! Leo] ------------------------------------------------ Subject: GTF Chromium Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 19:43:56 -0800 From: Amy Fernandez To: LeoManuel * Because I have family, who acquired diabetes, I take a GTF Chromium tablet or 2 every day. They sell it at the health food stores, make sure it is a whole foods product. Picolinate is BAD, do not take it * GTF helps make the cell more responsive to insulin, requiring less insulin to be produced. * GTF chromium helps control blood sugar levels by assisting insult to carry glucose to the cells. * Because GTF chromium is important for regulating blood sugar levels, it may be beneficial in the prevention of diabetes and hypoglycemia. ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Blueberries In Southern California Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:24:38 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Leo, You asked me some time ago about my experiences with blueberry varieties. I am sorry it has taken me so long to respond. The varieties that I have enjoyed the most have been Sharp's Blue and Misty. They are also very vigorous, as is Sunshine Blue. The latter fruits well, although I find the flavor a bit bland. The Jubilee has also grown well, but I don't recall the fruit. I think it has had very little so far. I also have Bluecrop, which is surprisingly vigorous, given that it is a higher-chill variety; however, it has not fruited. All of these are grown in large tubs (2 to 3 per tub) with a mix of one of the commercial organic potting soils and small redwood bark. I feed exclusively with cottonseed meal, though not as often as I should, and water daily or every-other day (depending on weather) via micro-sprayers. Matthew Shugart ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Determining harvest times for cherimoya Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:36:36 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I have my first substantial crop of cherimoyas on trees planted in 2003. I have never hand-pollinated. I wanted to see if planting several varieties densely would result in fruiting without hand-pollination, and I have been pleasantly rewarded with quite a bounty! I have Fino de Jete, Nata, Helmuts, and two seedlings. (One of the seedlings had Selma grafted on it by Leo, but on my way home from his house with this and other trees I bought during one of his plant sales, the tree shifted in the back of my pickup and the graft broke off.) All of the trees have fruit. But, given my inexperience, I am still struggling to determine the optimum harvest times. I would appreciate suggestions. Some of the fruits are very large. Some of the Fino de Jete and Nata have fallen recently, while still hard. They have been ripening well off the tree, but the risk of letting them fall is that four-legged conoisseurs might get to them first. Also, I can't find anything about Helmuts in any of my sources. Does anyone know about this variety? None have fallen yet, and all remain quite firmly attached to the branches. I maintain a blog with photos and information about my fruit-growing experiences, and recently posted a photo of the Helmuts fruits (on 16 November) at http://fruits.laderafrutal.com. Thank you. Matthew Shugart Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California ------------------------------------------------ Subject: Coffeecake and Tamopan persimmon Date: Sun, 10 Dec 2006 10:38:49 -0800 From: Matthew Shugart Dear Leo and RFNO readers: I do not know how many people are even aware of the Tamopan persimmon. I recommend it highly. Just in the last week I have harvested some fruit. Determining when to harvest is not easy, as this variety is astringent (implying it must be somewhat soft to be edible), but it also has a hard shell (very unlike Hachiya, for example). I picked three (all that this 4-year-old tree had) as soon as one of them began to soften, The others were still fairly hard. Even as it softens, the skin is thick and firm enough that one can scoop the flesh with a spoon. It is wonderfully sweet and extremely juicy, but without the "slimy" texture that some people find disagreeable in Hachiya. One of my books says the flesh can be a bit stringy, but the one I have sampled was not. I wonder why Tampoan is not more widely grown. Another lesser-known variety is Coffecake. My experience with it has been somewhat frustrating. In the last couple of years, Dave Wilson Nursery (a wholesale grower of deciduous fruit trees in California) has undertaken quite a marketing push for this variety. The name, Coffeecake, is itself part of the marketing push, replacing the previous name under which it was sold, 'Nishimura Wase.' It is supposedly non-astringent and early ripening, although neither characteristic has been my experience, especially this year. Looking back at a photo I posted on my blog in 2005 (http://fruitsandvotes.com/?p=48), I see that the fruit was close to maturity in late August. I don't seem to have kept a record of when I picked them last year, but I see that in a follow-up to a reader's comment at the blog, I indicated that the fruit was very good. However, this year, here we are in early December, and I have eaten only a few of them, and they have been very disappointing. In fact, they are quite astringent. Some of the fruits are turning black on one side, and the flesh inside this blackened area is actually quite good, but the rest of the same piece of fruit is always hard and astringent. The crop has been heavy, and I have periodically taken off an unblemished fruit to see if it would ripen off the tree, but I have not had a good one yet from this year's crop. I wonder if other RFNO readers have experience with this variety. As an aside, I find the marketing push itself almost hilarious. The 'Coffeecake' is described as follows in the Dave Wilson catalogue: "CoffeeCake persimmon [S] has a unique spicy-sweet flavor that instantly brings to mind images of cinnamon pastry, hot coffee and morning sunshine." Sounds great. But consider how it was described by Bay Laurel (a mail-order outlet for Wilson trees) back in 1997, when it was still being sold as 'Nishimura Wase': "New variety from Japan. Earliest known variety to ripen in Calif., late Sept. Medium to large, round and slightly four-sided, non-astringent fruit. Each fruit has four or more seeds, developing a tasty, juicy, chocolate brown flesh." That was the entire description. Amazing what a name change can do! However, as I noted above, I this year's fruit seems not to want to ripen, and to be of poor quality. By the way, none of the fruit this year has had seeds. (I don't recall last year's fruit, whether it had seeds or not.) Could the lack of seeds explain the disappointing fruit this year? The tree is grown in a row with several other varieties (Matsumoto Wase, Chocolate, Tampoan, and Maru, with a Hachiya not far away). The Maru had a few seeds. Matthew Shugart Bonsall (northern San Diego County), California <><> Mailbag of Sainarong Rasananda mailto:sainaron@loxinfo.co.th <><> None, this time <><><><><> Growing Rare Fruit In Containers <><><><><> None, this time <><><><> Announcements And Web Pages To Consider <><><><> San Diego Chapter California Rare Fruit Growers Meeting: Where: Casa del Prado Building Room 101, Balboa Park When: Fourth Thursday Of Each Month (Except December) See: http://www.crfgsandiego.org http://members.cox.net/ncsdcrfg For North County CRFG Chapter Meeting http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about ALL CRFG chapters. http://www.crfg.org/chapters.html For information about all CRFG chapters. <><>Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/<><> From: "Scott D. Russell" Bot-Linx List http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/bot-linx/ None this time <><><> NAFEX List From: nafex-request@lists.ibiblio.org <><><> None this time <><> [rarefruit] List - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rarefruit <><> None this time <> Agricultural Research Service (ARS) mailto:news@arsgrin.gov <> http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/pr/thelatest.htm. None this time <><><><><><><><><> End of RFN200612B.txt <><><><><><><><><><> =============================================================== Leo Manuel http://www.rarefruit.com mailto:rarefruit@san.rr.com Home Of Free Email Newsletter: Rare Fruit News Online Pitaya Fruit:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PitayaFruit/ ===============================================================